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Vishal bhujbal
1. MAEER̓ S
Guided by:
Prof.Manish S.Wani.
Presented by:
Mr.Vishal G.Bhujbal.
MAHARASHTRA INSTITUTE OF
PHARMACY,
PUNE-38
Cosmeceuticals
2. Introduction:
A COSMECEUTICALS is an ingredient with medicinal properties, which
manifests beneficial topical actions and provides protection against
degenerative skin conditions.
COSMECEUTICALS is the combination of cosmetics and
pharmaceuticals.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients to
have medical or drug like benefits.
A cosmetic that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties is called
cosmeceutical product.
eg. Skin care: sun screen, and other skin related products,
Hair care: Antidandruff shampoos, scalp health products,
Body care:Deodorants
Decorative products:Including nail care and eye care.
3. • Hair regrowth, anti-ageing, anti-perspirant for dermatitis, tooth decay.
• Anti-wrinkle, hair removal, skin tanning, skin whitening.
• Applied topically, such as creams, lotions, and ointments.
Products which are similar in perceived benefits but
ingested orally are known as nutricosmetics/ oral
cosmeceuticals.
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4. History
Raymond Reed, founder of U.S. society cosmetic
chemists, created the concept of cosmeceuticals in
1961.
Further the term coemeceutical was popularized by
American dermatologist Albert Kligman, father of
Cosmeceuticals in 1970.
The first recorded use of cosmetics is attributed to
“Egyptians” in 4000 B.C (Rona et al., 2004).
"Ebers," a medical papyrus written in 1600 BC,
makes frequent reference to a number of
cosmeceutical-type products.
Albert Kligman
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5. Kligman rekindled interest by developing formulations to improve the
appearance of UV-damaged and wrinkled skin, using retinoic acid as
the active ingredient. (Retinoic acid has proven ability to diminish
small wrinkles, reduce senile keratosis and support collagen
formation).
A favourite was a formulation using honey and milk that claimed to
help cure skin diseases.
First official product appeared in the world market in 1996.
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7. Mechanism of action of cosmeceuticals:
SR. NO MECHANISM OF ACTION COSMECEUTICAL EXAMPLE
1. Activate a receptor Retinoids:Tretinoin, Retinol
2. Enhance barrier function Moisturizers based on: Petrolatum,
Silicon, Mineral oil glycerin
3. Increase exfoliation Salicylic acid
4. Decrease inflammation Green tea
5. Inhibit oxidation Lactobionic acid, Vitamin E
6. Modulate pigmentation Micronized titanium oxide
7. Deliver photo protection Avobenzone, microfine zinc oxide
Some basic cosmeceutical mechanism of action:
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8. Cosmetics vs Cosmeceuticals:
Cosmetics Cosmeceuticals
FD and C act defines cosmetic product by its
intended use meaning, cleansing, beautifying,
promote attractiveness or altering appearance
Cosmeceuticals on other hand have
pharmaceutical benefits on skin.
Cosmetic product only deliver their
ingredient at a very superficial level into skin.
Cosmeceutical products contain active
ingredients that act on the skin cellular
structure through topical application with
either therapeutic, disease-fighting or healing
properties.
Cosmetics do not delay your skin aging
process because they work at the uppermost
layer of the epidermis which is top most layer
of the skin.
Cosmeceuticals are more concentrated, pure
and more effective giving pharmaceutical
benefits.
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9. 1.Retinoids
• Retinoids define a class of substances comprising vitamin A (retinol) (Retinol is
pure and active Vitamin A) and its natural and synthetic derivatives.
• As lipophilic molecules, they can diffuse through cellular and other
phospholipid membranes.
• Inside the cells, they bind to nuclear receptors (RAR- α, -β, -γ, and RXR-α, -β, -
γ) then the ligand-receptor complexes modulate the expression of genes
involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation.
• Retinol is produced in the small intestine either by hydrolysis of retinyl esters,
or by oxidation of various carotenoids .
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10. Natural retinoids:
1. Retinol (vitamin A).
2. Retinyl-palmitate.
3. Retinyl-acetate.
Synthetic retinoids:
1. Adapalene.
Applications in Cosmetics.
1. Significant repair of sun damaged skin.
2. It is proven to improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and
wrinkles,skin texture, skin tone and color, and hydration levels.
3. Retinol actually thickens skin, which gives the appearance of a firmer,
healthy complextion because of their ability in helping with the
production of collagen fibers.
Retinol
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11. 4. Retinol stimulates cell production underneath the skin to increase the
rate of cell turnover and exfoliation, resulting in smoother, softer skin
with diminished signs of aging.
5. Another beneficial effect of retinoids is that they can improve blood
circulation and even aid in the creation of new blood vessels .
6. Retinoids when combined with other skin care products they can
provide for a powerful anti aging skin care treatment .
Side effects:
1. Rare and If the skin sensitive .
2. It increase sensitivity to light (therefore strong sunscreen must).
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13. 2.Hydroxy acids
• These include α-hydroxy acids(glycolic acid, lactic acid) and β-hydroxy
acids(salicylic acids).
• They may be either naturally occurring or synthetic.
Cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products:
glycolic acid (from sugar cane).
lactic acid (from sour milk).
malic acid (from apples).
tartaric acid (from grape wine).
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14. Cosmetic applications:
• They are often found in products claiming to reduce wrinkles or the
signs of aging, and improve the overall look and feel of the skin.
• Mandelic acid due to its anti-bacterial properties is used to control
mild to moderate acne.
• Glycolic acid --smallest molecular size AHA--high bioavailability,
therefore popular cosmetic applications.
• Skin's moisture is lost through the cracks of dead skin cells on the
outer layer.
• AHAs removes the dead skin and hence water cannot be easily lost
through new skin without cracks.
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15. Difference between α,β-hydroxy acids:
• There is only one beta hydroxy acid - salicylic acid, lipid (oil)
solubility.
• Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble.
• beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble,
Thus, beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into pore which contains
sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the
pore.
Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better
used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads.
Alpha hydroxy acids are better used on thickened, sun- damaged skin
where breakouts are not a problem.
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16. Precautions be taken for the use of cosmetics containing AHAs and
BHAs:
• Test any product that contains a BHA on a small area of skin before
applying it to a large area.
• If you use cosmetics with BHAs and experience skin irritation or
prolonged stinging, stop using the product and consult your physician.
• Follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the
recommended applications.
• Avoid using BHA-containing products on infants and children.
• Use sun protection if you use a BHA product.
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17. Beta hydroxy acids:
• Contains a carboxylic acid functional group and hydroxy functional
group separated by two carbon atoms.
• Upon dehydration, beta-hydroxy acids yield an alpha-beta unsaturated
acid.
• In cosmetics beta hydroxy acid refers specifically to:
salicylic acid (or related substances, such as salicylate, sodium
salicylate, and willow extract).
• Other beta hydroxy acids include:
1. beta-Hydroxybutyric acid,
2. beta-Hydroxy beta-methylbutyrate,
3. beta hydroxybutanoic acid,
3-Hydroxypropionic acid
Salicylic acid containing products by
LAKME
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18. Safety measures/side effects:
• Despite the fact that BHA's appear to be less irritating than AHA's, they
can still have adverse side effects such as burning, stinging, itching, redness
and possible scarring (especially those with darker skin). However, most of
these risks can be avoided by choosing the appropriate concentrations and
pH levels for your skin type. It usually works best at a concentration of 1-
2%, at a pH level of 3 to 4.
• Perhaps the biggest concern about using beta hydroxy acid is that it
increases the skin's sun sensitivity by 50%.
• The EU Cosmetics Directive has listed this ingredient as safe to use in
rinse-off hair products at concentrations up to 3%, and in all other products
at up to 2%.
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19. Antioxidants
• Skin exposed to a constant assault of endogenous and exogenous
damaging agents such as: UV radiation, Air pollutant, heat/cold this may
lead to cell damage of the body.
• Antioxidants provides key nutrients needed by the body to neutralize
free radicals.
• Helps in cellular damage.
• Antioxidants may improve immune function and lower risk for
infection and cancer.
• Antioxidants are as follows:
1. Vitamin C.
2. Vitamin A.
3. Carotenoids.
4. Green tea. 19
20. Vitamin C:
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is essential for life.
• Vitamin C is necessary for the hydroxylation of procollagen,proline,
and lysine.
• Vitamin C has been used effectively to stimulate collagen repair, thus
diminishing some of the effects of photoaging on skin.
• vitamin C is easily degraded by heat and light, which along with its
high acidity, presents certain challenges for use in a multipurpose skin
care formulation.
• Protects against ROS release from cigarette smoke.
• Information about its effect in vivo is lacking.
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21. Vitamin E(alpha-tocophero):
• Vitamin E is naturally occuring anti-oxidant.
• Vitamin E is known as anti-sterility vitamin because it helps in normal
reproduction in many animals.
• Its major role is generally considered to be the arrest of chain
propagation in lipid peroxidation by scavenging lipid peroxyl radicals,
hence protecting the cell membrane from destruction.
• Vitamin E topically applied before UV irradiation has been shown to
reduce erythema, edema, sunburn cells, immuno suppression caused by
sunlight, and DNA adduct formation.
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22. Carotenoids.
• Carotenoids are the derivatives of vitamin A and have found
widespread use in cosmeceuticals due the established topical anti-
aging benefits.
• Carotenoids are a large family of orange, red, and yellow substance
that perform vital antioxidant roles.
• Carotenoids contaning products:
1. Astaxanthin.
2. Lutein.
3. Lycopene.
4. Retinol.
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23. Green tea:
• Green tea both topically and orally.
• Different types of teas:Black, oolong, and white.
• Green tea is made from unfermented tea leaves and contains highest
concentration of polyphenol antioxidants.
• Green can be easily added to the topical creams and lotions designed
to combat the signs of photoaging.
• A topically applied green tea cosmeceuticals extract containing
epogallocatechin -3-gallate was to found to reduce UV inflammation.
• Green tea polyphenols can function topically as antioxidants, anti-
inflammatories, and anti-cancinogens, making them a popular
cosmeceutical additive.
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24. Depigmentation:
• Dipgmentation is the lightening of the skin .
• The pigment loss can be partial(injury to skin), or complete(caused by
vitiligo).
• It can be temporary(from tinea versicolor)or permanent(from albinism).
• Hydroquinone, alosein,glycolic acid,are some multiple eg.Of
depigmentation agents.
• Hydroquinone is effective and widely used for treatment of melasma, post
inflammatory depigmentation.
• It acts by inhibiting conversion of tyrosine to melanin.
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26. Advances in cosmeceuticals:
• LIFE SAVING DOT.
• Iodine bindis for tribal women to fight iodine deficiency.
• A philanthropic group known as Grey for Food, which is the part of
agency Grey Advertising, has teamed up with the Neelvasant Medical
Foundation and Research Centre in India to transform the bindi into a
vessel to provide nutrient deficient women with iodine.
• This bindis contains 150-200 micrograms of iodine.
• Pregnant women in particular are at higher risk of
Iodine deficiency.
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30. Major share of major player in India cosmeceutical
industry,2014:
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31. References:
• Singhal Mukul, Khanna Surabhi, Nasa Atul. Cosmeceuticals for the
skin:An Overview. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical
Research 2011;4(02):1-6.
• Kadam VS, Chintale AG, Deshmukh KP, Nalwad DN. Cosmeceuticals
an emerging concept.International Research of Pharmacy and
Chemistry 2013;3(02):308-316.
• Nikita Wanjari, Jyotsna Waghmare.A review on a latest trend of
Cosmeceuticals.International Journal of Pharma and Research
2015;4(05):45-51.
• Priyank Sharma.Cosmeceuticals:Regulatory Scenario in US, EUROPE
and INDIA.International Journal of Pharmacy and Technology
2011;3(04):1512-1535.
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