An overview in garment industry (dept. wise)

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON
FABRIC & TRIM WAREHOUSE DEPT.
PRESENTED BY-
AL-ZAKARIA
MANAGEMENT TRAINEE
BITOPI GROUP

Contents
• Material receiving procedure in the main gate
• Material receiving procedure in warehouse
• Different kinds of fabrics, pocketing & inter lining
• Warehouse Capacity Planning
• Fabric & trims inspection procedure
• Fabric & trim issue system

Material receiving procedure in
the main gate
A vehicle with having a load of materials waits at the gate for
initial security checking.
Security person checks the vehicle whether it has the gate
pass and the original copy of challan no./invoice no.
Security person keeps a copy of original challan no./invoice
no.
People from warehouse were informed that materials have come
to the gate.

warehouse
Then the materials are moved to the quarantine area for initial
inspection.
Warehouse officer checks the lock no. whether the locker no. matches
with locker no. given to them or not.
Vehicle with having a load of materials stops at goods receiving gate
at the warehouse.

warehouse
Then the materials were ready for GRN entry.Then all details of the
data and rolls of materials entered to the BIS system.
If any roll of materials were found damaged, wet or missing then they
report to the top management team.
Person from warehouse makes a tally report and checks that the
quantities are OK.

Different kinds of fabrics,
pocketing & interlining
Shell Fabric:
Denim Twill

Shell Fabric:
Polyester Canvas

Shell Fabric:
Viscose Cotton-Polyester mix

Shell Fabric:
Nylon-Polyester mix

Pocketing fabric:
Cotton Tetron-Cotton

Interlining:
Dot
Plane
Dot
Plane
Polyester Paper

Warehouse Capacity Planning
Number of racks = 16 racks
Number of boxes per rack =40 boxes
Capacity of fabric per box = 4500 yards
So,
Total warehouse capacity for fabric = 30 lacs (approx.)
Capacity of trims = available for 20 lacs pcs of garments

Warehouse Capacity Planning
Almost all the racks are fixed for a selective buyer.(ex:
H&M,GAP etc.)
 Racks are sorted by the name of:
 Buyer,
 Style ,
 Colour.
Total capacity planning is planned as per the PCD (Plan to
Cut Date)

Fabric inspection procedure
Fabric Inspection
Head Cut &
Blanket
Inspection
Shrinkage
Test
Shade
Test
Visual Inspection M/C inspection

Head Cut Inspection:
A minimum amount of fabric from the roll has been
cut for “shrinkage” & “shade” test.This is called “head
cut”.
For spandex 100% roll has the head cut and for
cotton 10% roll from 100% roll has the head cut.
Head cut parameter:
Shrinkage test : 25-30 inches.
Center to Salvage variation test : 5-10 inches.

Blanket Inspection:
Supplier gives extra cloth for making blanket for
shade test.
If not then 35 inches has been cut from the roll for
making a blanket.
Then blanket goes to washing.
After washing sewing is disclosed from the blanket
for the “ShadeTest”.

Blanket Inspection:
Shades are then segregated by the buyer
requirement as: A/B/C/D
A shade book then be prepared to give the
merchant for an overall review.
A shade band chart has been ready for “pro-cut”
entry.
From “pro-cut” a barcode has been found.

Blanket Inspection Shade
Chart

A barcode contains some information like:
BARCODE
Purchase Order Roll no. Lot no.
Shade group Shrinkage Quantity
Colour Problem Accept/Reject

Trims inspection procedure
Stored in
inventory
(Rack)
Approved
Trim Card
Required
Sheet Check
10% Check
from total
lot
If more
than 1%
fails then
reject.
If OK then
“Approved”
Report
to mgmt.

Approved Trim Card Required Sheet
Check

Fabric & trim issue system
Cutting dept. gives the fabric requisition and
Sewing dept. gives trim requisition.
Warehouse dept. checks the consumption using
“pro-cut” software.
If matches then warehouse gives the issue for
the required fabric.

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON
CAD & SAMPLE DEPT.

Contents
• Pattern and marker making procedure
• Sampling procedure
• Normal standard of marker efficiency for fabric to
fabric

Pattern and marker making
procedure
Collection of tech-pack from the merchant which
contains measurement, styles, color etc.
Making of the pattern using “tuka” software
following the measurement.
Applying grading to the pattern as per the size
without the shrinkage allowance.

Pattern and marker making
procedure
Shrinkage allowance from the quality
inspection is applied to the pattern.
A marker then found by using “tuka” marker
software.
Then these will input to the CNC m/c called “Hard
Block Maker” for making “Hard Pattern” and
“Marker maker” for “Marker”.

Preparing marker by TUKA soft.

Hard Pattern making by Hard Block
Maker

Sampling procedure
Fit sample
Made and send to conform the fit of the
garment
Fabric used for fit sample production is
the actual fabric which is going to be use
Proto sample
Developed at very initial stage
Usually done on the substitute fabrics,
and using accessories, what is available
Design development
The first sample which is made for any
style
Take the decision to proceed with the
same line or not.

Sampling procedure
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test)
Perform the physical and chemical testing on
garment to ensure the performance of the garment
The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color
Fastness, Seam performance etc.
Size set sample
To check the factory's capability to make the sample
in all sizes
1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each
size send to buyer.
Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample
Collect the order from the retailers Actual accessory, actual fabric is used

Sampling procedure
Wash sample
Submitted to buyer.
Assessment of feel and handle of fabric after
washing.
Pre- production sample
Considered to be a contract between the buyer
and the factory.
Made in original fabric and trims
Washing, embroidery and printing should match
to actual.

Normal standard of marker
making
Calculate Marker Efficiency:
Calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with
formula.
Formula#1
Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total
marker) * 100
Formula#2
Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces in
a marker /Total weight of fabric of under the marker area)*100

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON CUTTING DEPT.

Contents
• Fabric cutting procedure
• Cut plan procedure

Fabric cutting procedure
Marker making
Fabric Spreading
Placing marker paper
Fabric cutting

Numbering
Panel inspection
Sorting & Bundling
Send to sewing

Marker making
The CAD department determines the fabric
yardage needed for each style and size of garment.
Creating the optimum fabric layout to suggest so
fabric can be used efficiently.

Fabric spreading
To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through
the use of multi garment marker.
Plies of fabrics are spread in order to get required
length and width as per marker dimension.

Placing marker paper
Markers are attached to the plies of fabric on the
top of it with the help of adhesive stripping or
staples.
In a marker, every single sketch is attached to the
plies with scotch tape by cropping some area of the
marker

Attach to the plies with scotch
tape

Fabric cutting
Fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting
machines suitable for the type of the cloth.
High skilled worker required.

Numbering
Cutting fabrics are given a number by a hand tag
machine.
The sticker is tag on the cutting fabric surface.

Panel inspection
100% checking of the cut fabric , whether the
cutting is correct or not.
Fusing of some part where needed.

Sorting & Bundling
Sorting the cutting fabrics according to the number
of the stickers.
Some the sorted fabrics were bundled for the input
of the sewing.

Cut Plan Procedure
Bringing P.O. Sheet
Making a format in Excel
Style no. , P.O. no. ,Color , Size, Qty. input
Size breakdown, Order breakdown input
No. of plies and plan to cut date input

Cut Plan Procedure
Packing Ratio Adjustment according to fabric
consumption
Measure total cut qty.
Finding shortage/ excess if any
Sending the Cut Plan to CAD dept.
Making the marker according to the cut plan.

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON SEWING DEPT.

Contents
• Sewing procedure
• Different types of machines in sewing and their
functions
• Process sequence
• Hanger system

Sewing Procedure (Flowchart)
FLOW CHART OF
SEWING PROCEDURE

Different types of machines in
sewing and their functions
Name of machine Function of the machine
Lock stitch machine
a. single needle
b. double needle
All types of sewing operations to
make a garment.
Chain stitch machine
a. Single
b. double and
c. multiple needle
Operations like coin pocket, hem.
Over lock machine Locking all the edges like edge of
facing.
Inter lock/ Flat lock machine Both overlock and chain stitch
sewing. E.g. : Making of loop.

Different types of machines in
sewing and their functions
Name of machine Function of the machine
Feed off the arm machine In seaming of chain stitches.
Eyelet hole machine Making of button hole.
Bar tack machine High strength sewing operation
like joining loop into waist band.

Process sequence (Long Denim
Pant)
Seam Mark
Coin Pocket
Join
Seam Joining
Seam &
Facing
Joining
Front Pocket
Joining
J Stitch
Zipper
joining
Zipper join
with Double
fly
Front Rise
Joining

Pant)
BackYoke
Joining
BackYoke
Top Stitch
Back Rise
Overlock
Back Pocket
Joining
Back Pocket
Mark
Waist Belt
Joining
Front and
Back part
matching
Inseam
Overlock
Side Seam
Overlock

Pant)
Mouth Close
Elastic tuck
ForWaist
Belt
Loop tuck up
and down
Bottom Hem
Pocket Eye
Lot Snap
Button
Finish
Garments
Inspection

Hanger system
In this system, front and back part of a garment will move
in the production floor at the same time.
Same numbers of hanger will be equipped on front and
back part line. For those 2 lines each hanger are mentioned
by matching numbers with different color.
The production will run based on that hanger number
which means if the front part line operator doing the job
held at no. 5 hanger, back part line operator should have
doing the same job held at no. 5 hanger.

Hanger system
After all operations those hanger arriver at the preliminary
quality checking table for ensuring quality of the garment.
When the quality checking is done, all parts of the garment
will send for assembling where another type of hanger is
used.
In one hanger total parts of a garment can place in each pc.
All the hangers will be back on the input station.

Hanger system
Advantages of hanger system :
Less manpower needed
Worker flexibility increased
Reduced much time to make a complete garment
Work In Progress (WIP) is decreased
Finding and removing bottlenecks visually
Problems can find visually.

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON WASHING DEPT.

Contents
• Capacity planning
• List of machines with capacity
• Types of washes we do
• Recipe learning ratio, Load factor, Process cycle
time.
• Understanding activities in dry process
• Understanding wash recipe

Capacity Planning
An example of determining the required capacity for a
particular style is given below:
Working hours=20 hours=1200 min
Required time for one lot of denim wash= 240 min
Total order qty. =20,000
Lot weight= 114 kg
Lot qty.= 200 pcs

Capacity Planning
For “Yilmak 3860s”,
Capacity= 380 kg
Loading factor= 30%
So, acceptable capacity= 114 kg
No. of lot per machine= 1200/240 =5 lot.
So, acceptable qty. for per machine=5*200 pcs
= 1000 pcs

Capacity Planning
Let us assume that the ex factory date is 10 days for this
denim lot.
So, per day delivery target = 20,000/10 = 2,000 pcs.
So, number of machine needed= 2,000/1,000=2 m/c.
So, the required capacity for this particular denim style is 2
m/c for 2,000 pcs. per day.

List of machines with capacity
Types and total number of machines
Types Total Number Total machine
Washing 21
Dryer 13 39
Hydro 5

Names and capacity of machines (Washing)
Name Model no. Number of m/c Capacity (kg)
TONELLO G1420LD1 2 400
YILMAK HBM50245 4 500
YILMAK HBM38605 3 380
GREENMAC
BELLEY
CM550 5 250
PANYUXIN TW-W-30 1 250
YILMAK 3860-C 6 380

Names and capacity of machines (Dryer)
Names and numbers of machines (Hydro)
Name Model no. Number of m/c
YILMAK HNS 6000 3
YILMAK HNS 4069 5
TRIVENTAGRANDI E/300 2
YILMAK HNS 3000 3
Name Model no. Number of m/c
YILMAK HG120 4
GREEN MAC 1

Types of washes we do
There are two types of washes we do.
These are:
Dry Process
Wet Process

Dry Process:
Whisker Hand Brush Tagging Damaging
PP Spray 3D Tie Grinding
Caring Resin Spray

Wet Process:
De-size Enzyme Bleach
Tint Softener Drain

Liquor Ratio
Liquor ratio:
In a washing procedure the chemical which will use in
the machine is mixed with water first.To get a perfect wash
this mixture have to be good.
Liquor ratio is the ratio between water and the
chemical that is used in the washing machine to get a perfect
washing.

Load Factor
Load Factor
Depending on wash type based on different chemical loading factor
of the machine should be minimize to get the best quality of wash.
Load factor is basically the amount of loading of each machine’s
capacity.

Process Cycle Time
Process CycleTime:
Cycle time of washing is the total time from the
beginning to the end of the washing process.
To get a cycle time for the total washing procedure;
CycleTime =Time + (Time*25%)

Activities in dry process
Material (product) receive from sewing
Whisker (For Denim Only)
Hand Brush (For Denim Only)
Tagging
Wash (1st wash)

Activities in dry process
P.P. Spray
Wash (2nd wash)
3D (IfWoven)
Curing (IfWoven)
Finishing

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPT.

Contents
• Production Accounting System
• Incentive System

Production Accounting System
Production Accounting System:
It is a procedure by which “Order to ship” ratio and
“Cut to ship” ratio are calculated with accounting of receiving
rolls to delivery good via department to department. An
average excess amount of goods is taken as an allowance.
A production follow-up report is created for this
accounting system.

Production Accounting System
In Production Accounting System IE finds out:
Total production efficiency
Efficiency per department
Order to ship ratio
Cut to ship ratio
Wastages per department
Work in progress
Finds out which department has a problem in
delivery goods/ accuracy.

Incentive System for Sewing line
stuff
Procedure & instruction:
1. The incentive will be calculated on a daily basis and
payment will be done on monthly basis. Line chief,
supervisors, quality controller and machine will be
entitled.
2. The incentives will be calculated on the line achievements
and are determined based on the IE target.

Incentive System for Sewing line
stuff
3. Maximum allowed alter is 7 %. Line will be penalized for the alter %
in excess of 7%.
For example, if the alter percentage is 9%, line achievement will
be reduced by (9-7)= 2%.
4. Absent staff members will not be entitled.
5. The line will be penalized for the overtime. The line target will be
adjusted based on the overtime hours .And will be calculate the
achievement of the line.

Incentive System for Cutting
Section
1. Incentive will be calculated on a weekly slots and
payment will be done on a monthly basis.
2. Incentive will be calculated base on the weekly section
wise efficiency.
3. Absent workers on weekly slots will not be entitled. The
workers which has applied for applied for pre-leave will be
consider.

Incentive System for Cutting
Section
4. Cutting section will be divided into four section.
•Spreading
•Cutting
•Numbering
•Fusing
5. Cutters, operator and helpers (Layering ,numbering, fusing) get
the incentives as policy. Supervisors get incentives 3 times more
than the operators.

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON FINISHING DEPT.

Contents
• Finish line process
• Packing and folding process

Finish Line Process
Garments undergoes to thread sucker machine
to reduce extra threads.
Loop extension cutting
Raw edge cutting
Buttoning
Extra thread trim

Finish Line Process
Quality inspection (1st)
Putting reject garment in red box.
Putting alterable garment in yellow box.
Pass the perfect garment to next.
Full body ironing

Finish Line Process
Quality inspection (2nd)
Fabric, trims, operation check.
Plastic stapling of label
Size-wise segregation
Shade-wise segregation

Finish Line Process
Garment goes to needle free zone
Allowable metal are input to the metal
detector
Folding garment
Packing and assortment of garment as
requirement
Cartoning garment as buyer requirement

Finish Line Process
Last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.
Each garment undergoes different finishing processes.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets
the garment free from defects.
Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

Finish Line Process
Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished
and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the
loose and uncut threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains. Oil,
yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust,
tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains

Finish Line Process
Seam Ironing:
Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with
vacuum boards.
Final Finishing:
The entire garment is finished using various finishing
equipment.

Packing and folding process
Tagging and packing:
The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and
packing section.
Provide the tagging operators with the appropriate
price and brand tags.
placing the tag as per match the size mentioned on the
main label and the size on tag.

Packing and folding process
Tagging and packing:
The step after the tagging is to fold the garments as per the
specification of the buyer. Then after folding the garments these are
package in a dispatch area.
Carton the garments as per as the buyer requirement.
Solid colour solid size
Solid colour assort size
Assort colour assort size

TARASIMA
APPARELS LTD.
A REPORT ON
QUALITY DEPT.

Contents
• Quality process from fabric to the pack garment
• Shade control system from fabric to the pack
garment

Quality process from fabric to
the pack garment
Quality Process in Fabric:
 Shade matching
Different types of spot checking
Side-Centre-Side shade check
 End-End shade check
ShrinkageTest

Quality process from fabric to
the pack garment
Quality Process in Cutting:
marker checking
Panel inspection after numbering
Dimension check
Pattern size variation check
100% of cutting table inspection

Quality process from fabric to the
pack garment
Quality Process in Sewing:
Inline inspection
Traffic light inspection system
End of line inspection or table checking
For both front part and back part inspection
before assembling
Total garment inspection after assembling

Quality process from fabric to the
pack garment
Quality Process in finishing:
Initial finishing inspection
Final finishing Inspection
Metal detecting
Internal final audit

Shade control system from fabric
to the pack garment
Shade variation in fabric may appear as:
•Within same fabric roll there may be shade
variation like 'centre to selvage' and 'salvage to
salvage‘
•Within same fabric roll length wise shade
variation
•Shade variation in between fabric rolls

Shade control system from fabric
to the pack garment
Shade control in different areas:
• Fabric inspection: All fabric rolls need to inspect for shade
variation. Categorize fabric rolls based on fabric shades. If
there is a wide range of shade variation and fabric shade is
out of the standard one, management team should be
informed.
• Preparing Shade band: Develop shade bands and get
approval for all shade bands you have in your bulk fabric.
Mark shade band no. to each fabric roll / than. Shade bands
help in fabric layering and shorting in cutting room.

Shade control system from
fabric to the pack garment
• Communicate with clear information: With varied shades of fabrics,
information must be shared with cutting department as well as
production department. While issuing fabric to cutting, intimate
cutting department that fabric has different shades and fabric lots
should not be get mixed.
• Fabric layering: Categorizing rolls according to shade band. While
spreading fabrics for cutting, spread fabrics of same shade band no.
in a lay. Fabrics roll of different shades. When need to spread fabric of
another shade on the same lay place separator to identify cutting of
different rolls easily at the time of shorting and bundling.

• Marker placement: In case fabric has shade variation of 'centre
to selvage' and 'side to side' place garment pattern on the fabric
layer in such a way that shade variation would not be prominent
(visible) in garment.
• Numbering of layers: Use of ply numbering system and number
all garment components. Like, all components of a garment
should have same sequence number. In case spreading of fabrics
of multiple lots in a same lay (cut) use separator for each rolls/
lots. Then while making bundles ,bundles for each lots/rolls are
separated.

• Bundle movement in sewing: After following above steps strictly,
one even have shade variation in garment if bundles are not
maintained in sewing lines. Sewing operators need to close
bundles after completing sewing of a bundle. Ensure that when
operators join two component they should check ply number on
sticker and sew component with same ply numbers.
• Replace defective garment part: Check garment component
shade variation at the end of line inspection. Garments found with
fabric shade variation (varied shade of different components if that
is not a design feature) need to be separated from the good
garments. Later defective garments (due to shade variation) can
be corrected by replacing parts. For the part changing, be careful
to cut parts from the matching lots.

Finishing : After finishing several garment these all has a lots
of shade variation to each other. So, to get reduce from these
kind of problem shade segregation is required for each
garment.

THANK
YOUAl-Zakaria
Mobile no: 01670442663
Mail: alzakaria.antu@gmail.com

An overview in garment industry (dept. wise)

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An overview in garment industry (dept. wise)