1. COSMETICS- FORMULATION AND
EVALUATION OF SELECTED PRODUCTS

2. Classification of cosmetics
• Cosmetics for skin
• Cosmetics for hair
• Cosmetics for nail
• Cosmetics for hygiene ( Dental, bathing)
Face Powder
• They are use to cover the shine and minor imperfections.
• Absorb sebum and perspirations to provide smooth finish to the
skin for a long period of time.
• Should not cause a painted clown like appearance.
• Should not run off or rub off from the skin easily.

3. Characteristics of Face powder
• Adequate covering power.
• Adhere well to the skin, should not run/rub off.
• Finish should complement the natural skin colour.
• Should eliminate the shine.
• Application must be done with out dragging or blotchy effect.
• Transparency is preferred.
Classification of face powder
• Loose face powder.
• Special compact face powder

4. Formulation of Face powder
• FP must posses good covering power, hence raw materials selected
must posses similar properties. The charecterestics of raw material
must be similar to the desired idea properties.
Eg:Titanium dioxide,Zinc oxide, ZnS,Kaolin,MgO.
TD is most preferred because of its inert property and can blend
well with any colour base.
• Materials used as vehicle and diluents must posses good slip.
Eg: Starch, Metallic soaps, Talc.
Rice starch is not preferred in US products but in French it is still
preferred. Barium sulfate used in European makers but may
produce dark skin.
• Binders are used to hold the FP with the skin along with holding
incorporated perfumes and colours with in the formulation
throughout the shelf life.
Eg: Magnesium carbonate, Precipitated chalk etc.

5. Colours of the finished products
• Based on taste and fashion.
• Blended best with natural skin colour.
Factors of colour effect
• Opacity of white and tinted pigments
• Particle size.
• Degree of dispersion.
• Thickness of applied film and skin colour.
Assessment of colour is made on inner forearm area. It is done
for both mass tone and under tone.
Assessed for batch to batch consistency.

6. General manufacturing process
• Colour extention
Homogenous dispersion of dye in white base. Done with mixing
instruments and efficiency depends on instrument and physical
characteristics of ingredients.
Pigments and talc are passed through hammer mill/ Vertical
vortex mixer/ Plough shear mixer and well coated over talc
particles.
• Base powder preparation
White base ingredients mixed in SS-ribbon blenders ( 20 min to 3
hrs). Extended colours added to base mixture. Blended further to
produce uniformity. Perfume is added at this stage.
Colour checking is done and corrections are made. Emptied in to
polythene bags for storage or further process.

7. • Compacting process
Wet moulding, Damp compressing &Dry compressing.
Air-mite press is preferred. Avoid the entrapped air, which may
be done with pre-pressing.
• Pressure to produce good compact depends on,
Type and quantity of binder
Moisture content
• Binding agents must provide good cohesion. Dry powders, oils,
silicon and emulsions are used for this purpose. Eg: Metalic
stearates, Mineral oils, Isopropyl myristate,Lanoline,Silicon gum,
Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone etc.
• Preservatives may be used.

8. • Formulae for Loose Face powder
Talc (Impart slip on skin) : 74.8%
Zinc Stearate ( Skin adhesion) : 7.5%
Magnesium carbonate ( Absorbent base for fragrance) : 1.0%
Black iron oxide : 0.3%
Red iron oxide : 3.0%
Yellow iron oxide ( Pigments) : 3.0%
Mica
Barium sulfate : 10.0%
Titanium dioxide
Fragrance : 0.15%
Preservative : q.s

9. Method of manufacturing
• Disperse the fragrance in Magnesium carbonate to form free
flowing blend.
• Place talc, zinc stearate, fragrance blend, preservative, pigments
in ribbon blender and mix for 20- 30 mins.
• Pass the mixture through hammer mill until pigments are fully
mixed.
• Put mixture back to ribbon blender and add low luster pigments
and mix for 15-25 mins.
• Sieve if necessary.
• Match the colour and mix if require.
• Pack in to containers.