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Shampoo ingredients guide
1.
2. Shampoo
• Mr.Dhiraj Santosh shinde (guied-Dr. S.S.Mutha)
• M pharm first year sgrs college of pharmacy
• Saswad,Pune
3. Hair Cosmetics:
• Hair cosmetics are the formulations which
are meant for cleansing the hair, nourishing
the hair and colouring the hairs. Different
hair cosmetics:-
➢ Shampoo
➢ Hair grooming preparations
➢ Hair colorants ( Dyes )
➢ Hairs straightener
➢ Shaving media like shaving cream,
shaving foams, after shave lotion etc.
➢ Hair tonics
4. SHAMPOO
Definition:
❑ A liquid or cream preparation of soap or detergent to wash the hair . OR Liquid soap for
washing HAIR to remove the dirt , used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles,
dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up
in hair.
❑ Shampoo may be defined as preparation containing surface active agents which are used
to remove dirt, oil from the hair and scalp without affecting natural gloss of the hairs.
❑ Several types of ingredients are particularly important, including “Surfactants" that aid in
cleansing and lathering. • “Conditioners" and “Active ingredients" that affect the hair and
scalp. • “Additives" that stabilize the product.
5. Ideal Properties:
• To make the hair smooth and shiny.
• Produce good amount of Foam.
• Should not cause irritation to scalp, skin and eye.
• Should completely, effectively remove dirt.
• Impart pleasant fragrance to hair.
• Should be non-toxic and non-irritant.
• It should effective in small amount.
• It is easily removed by washing with water.
6. Functions of Shampoo
• Effectively and completely remove dirt (or) soil.
• Effectively wash the Hair.
• Produce a good amount of Foam to satisfy the User.
• Be readily removed by rinsing with water.
• Impart a pleasant fragrance to the Hair.
• Not have any side effects (or) causes irritation to the skin and eye.
7. Classification:
I. Based on Appearance:
a) Powder Shampoos
b) Liquid Shampoos or Lotion Gel Shampoos
c) Cream Shampoos
d) Oil Shampoos
e) Miscellaneous-medicated shampoo
II. Based on Use or Function:
a) Conditioning Shampoos
b) Antidandruff Shampoos
c) Therapeutic Shampoos
d) Baby Shampoos
8. Action:
▪ All Shampoos contain Surfactants.
▪ Surfactant molecule has two parts - Hydrophilic head
Hydrophobic tail.
▪ At high concentration they form Micelle. When Shampooing, Anionic
surfactants containing hydrophobic tail gets adsorbed to grease or dirt of
hair.
▪ Thus, these dirt are removed by further rinsing.
9. Raw materials used in formulation of Shampoo:
1) Water:
This is the main ingredient in all shampoo recipes, comprising about 60-80%
of the solution, inexpensive , it aids in diluting the cleaning agents, thereby reducing
irritation, and makes the shampoo formula easier to spread on the hair and scalp.
2) Surfactants:
Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension of a liquid, the
interfacial tension between two liquids. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting
agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants.
10. A) Non-ionic surfactant:
• Less foaming and less cleansing .
• Used as such as foam booster and stabilizer.
• Examples = alcohol, amine oxide, alcolonamides, glycolyster, esters like
glycerides.
a) Cationic surfactant –
It produces foam well and have reasonable cleansing power. They
also free of electrostatic charges.
e.g. alkyl amines, quaternary compounds like heterocyclic, ammonium salts,
alkyl butates.
B) Ionic surfactant:
11. b) Un-ionic surfactant:
Superior foaming and hair conditioning property, low cost and
compatible with other ingredients.
e.g. carboxylic acids and salts, phosphoric acids and salt, sulphuric acid and salts,
sulphuric acid and esters.
c) Amphoteric:
Superior foaming and hair conditioning property, low cost and
compatible with other ingredients.
2) Ionic surfactant:
12. 3) Foam Boosters and Stabilizers:
Used to increase Foam forming tendency. e.g.:
Coco Diethanolamide - used as foam booster and viscosity builder.
4) Opacifiers:
A chemical agent added to a material, such as rocket propellant, to make
it opaque(not transparent or not allowing light to pass through).
e.g: Spermaceti.
5) Clarifying Agents:
To make clear by removing impurities or solid matter, as by heating
gently or filtering.
e.g: Ethanol, Propanol.
13. 6) Anti-dandruff Agents:
Removal of dandruff from scalp of hair. e.g.: Selenium, Salicylic acid.
7) Conditioning Agents: To offset the effects of surfactants, most shampoo recipes
include conditioners to help smooth, soften and reduce brittleness. e.g.: Lanolin,
Glycerol, Propylene glycol.
8) Thickening Agents or Viscosity Builders:
What this basically means is – how to make shampoo thick and creamy include salts
and gums. Gums improve viscosity because of their gel-like properties. e.g.:
Tragacanth gum, carboxy methyl cellulose.
9) Sequestering Agents: Used to prevent precipitation of insoluble calcium,
magnesium salts in hard water. e.g: EDTA
14. 10) Perfumes:
Shampoos include perfumes and pigments most are highly concentrated
and used sparingly. e.g.: Fruit fragrance
11) Colors: Used to impart color, different colors are used. e.g. : Strawberry.
12) Preservatives:
Shampoo formula containing water has the potential to be
contaminated by pathogens. For this reason it is essential to include preservatives
among shampoo ingredients, to prevent the growth of molds. Preservatives usually
comprise only 0.1 – 0.5% of the formulation.
e.g. methyl paraben, propyl paraben.
15. General Preparations:
1) They are prepared by simple mixing process. In powder shampoo the
ingredients are simply mixed and perfume is added last.
Rx:-
a) Sodium bicarbonate: 50 gm
b) Disodium phosphate: 20 gm
c) Soap powder: 30 gm
d) Perfume: q.s.
2) Clear liquid shampoo:
Detergents dissolved in half quantity of water
Other ingredients are dissolved in another half quantity of water
Mix with first part and add perfume
16. Rx:-
a) Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate: 45 gm
b) Coconut monoethanolamide : 2gm
c) Water: 30 gm
d) Perfume: q.s.
e) Colour and preservatives: q.s.
3) Oil shampoo:
They have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the hairs, but
they do not form foam. Sulphonated vegetables oils are made by treating vegetable
oil with sulphuric acid or other sulphonating agents and are good detergents.
17. a) Sulphonated olive oil: 16 gm
b) Sulphonated caster oil: 16 gm
c) Water: 8 gm
d) Perfume, preservative and colour: q.s.
4) Anti-dandruff shampoo:-
This shampoo containing ingredients incorporated to achieve specific function
along with cleansing action.
Rx:-
a) SLS paste: 25 gm
b) Stearic acid: 7 gm
c) Sodium hydroxide: 1 gm
d) Water: 65 gm
e) Perfume & preservatives: q.s.
Rx:-
18. Quality Control Tests:
a)Foam Stability:
Cylinder shake method was used for determining foaming ability. 50ml of
the 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250ml graduated cylinder and cover the
cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volumes of the foam contents
after 1 minute shaking were recorded. The foam volume was calculated. Foam
should retain for at least 5mins. Foam Stability = V2-V1.
b)Viscosity:
Is determined using Brooke field Viscometer. 100 ml of shampoo is taken in a
beaker and spindle is dipped in it for about 5min and then reading is taken.
19. c) Skin – irritation Test:
Draize test in Rabbits where a patch test technique is used on the intact skin of Albino
Rabbits. A set of 6Rabbits used for testing each material. Shampoos should be tested only for a
short duration that is not more than(NMT) 4hours as these products come in contact with skin
only for a short duration. These preparations are diluted between concentrations of 8 to 10%.
These patches are then removed and the skin sites are scored for the changes on the surface of the
skin like Oedema, erythrma formation. The products are then classified as----mild irritant,
moderate and severe.
d) Skin Sensitization Test:
Test on GUNIEA pig. Eye-Irritancy Test: On the basis of ability to cause injury to
Cornea, Iris, Conjunctiva when the substances is applied to EYE. The test is carried out on Adult
Albino Rabbits. Occular reactions are read which unaids Eye. Readings are made 24,48,72hours
at 4 and 7 days after treatment (or)as long as injury persists. Any preparation is called an Eye
Irritant which shows Corneal and Iris lesions which persists even after 7days.
e) pH:
Mix 1gram of shampoo with 9ml of water and determine the pH using pH meter at 27 degree cel.