FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF LIPSTICK WITH ITS DEFECTS

1. Presented by :-
MRS. MONALI B. PARBHANE
Asst. Professor
Dept. of Pharmaceutics
STCOP, SHIRUR

3. Defination
Semisolid preparations moulded into sticks.
Formulation used for the modification or
improving the appearance of lip color. It is the
formulation containing dispersion of colors ,dye,
lake in suitable base of blend containing oil &
wax in the form of stick or enclosed in case.
Function- freshening the make up
- Protection from cold ,dry weather, UV light.

4.  Colour – good , apply easily, natural
look, should not spread. should not be
tacky, finishing- matte, glossy. Non drying.
 Appearance- should not give blemishing
on surface (blooming, cracking, printing,
sweating)
 Uniformity of colour
 Shelf life ( 30 month )& compatibility

5.  sufficiently rubbest during handing
 Presence of any Smudgy feel, juicy feel
Make lips soft
 Long Lasting Power
Easily applicable & removable.
 M.P. ( 50-60 c )
Moisturize lips.
Pleasant test,odour,flavours.

6. Lipstick - available
Lipstick is a cosmetic product
that has many shades of colors
with different types of lipsticks
including color, gloss, and balm.

7. Lipstick Trends
Lipstick trend’s color
depends on the fashion of the
times and sometimes the use by
a popular celebrity.

8. Lipstick Raw Materials

9. Lipstick Raw Materials
1.Waxes

10. Lipstick Raw Materials
2.Oils-solvents for
dyes & coloring
agents.

11. Lipstick Raw Materials
3.Fragrance

12. Lipstick Raw Materials
4. Coloring material-
staining dyes,
pigments.

13. • 5. Moisturizers, Emollients – Lanoline ( less
than 10 % )
• 6. Antioxidants –BHT,BHA
• 7.Antimicrobial – propylparaben 0.1%
• 8. Wetting agents – Low HLB value- lecithin

14. Ingredients in Lipsticks
 Colouring materials- lipstick gives color by I )
staining II ) covering
Color- 1) soluble 2) Insoluble
Ingredient Amount in %
Staining dyes (Bromo
Acids)
0.5 - 3
Oil Soluble Pigments 2
Insoluble Pigments 8 - 10
Titanium Dioxide 1 - 4

15. Ideal property of colorants
• Even & fine particle size
• Opacity with good colouring & covering
property
• Smoothly & uniformly mix
• Compatible
• Stable against heat
• Approved by F D & C

16. • Common colorants –
• 1) Carmine-obtain by extracting dried cochineal insects
with ammonia & carminic acid. Ppt with alum
• 2) Staining dyes- impart colour by staining, gives long
lasting effect
• A) Eosin- orange red color.it is tetra bromo derivative of
flouroscein, disadv- photosensitization – inflammation.
• B) Acid Eosin- called as bromo acid, Orange in color,
insoluble in water. pH sensitive form red color at pH 4,
allergic
• 3) Pigments- mostly use, org/inorg pig are used
• 4) Lake- color with metal – Al lake- Drawback- lack of
opacity,covering property, gives color by covering.

17. OPACYFYING AGENT -
 Titanium dioxide –
• Helps in obtaining Pink shades
• Gives opacity
• Very high Degree of Brightness &
covering power

18.  Base –
A) Solid waxes-(Such as)- use in combination
1) Beeswax-common wax-source, bleached,
limitation- lack of gloss, grainy effect
2) Ozokerite – microcrystline wax-thermally stable
3) Carnauba – hard wax-lim – difficult to miscible
B) Softening agents – are fatty acid material use to
make soft & spready lipstick
1) Modified Lanolins
2) Cocoa Butter

19. Liquid components- Oil-
• Ideal property-
• Good solvent power, easily blend with wax to form
thin film on lips.
• Optimal viscosity and optimal viscosity temperature
coefficient
• Least odour, practically colourless, devoid of
unpleasant taste, non irrigating, non toxic and
stability.
• Dependable supply.
• A single oil or a mixture is selected either to act as a
solvent for eosin dyestuff or dispersing agent for
insoluble pigments.

20.  Liquid components-
1) Castor Oil (Most Widely Used)
2) Mineral Oil (Gives Gloss (1-5%) )
3) Butyl Stearate
4) Oleyl Alcohol
5) Propylene Glycol
6) Isopropyl Myristate(Increases lip gloss)
7) Silicone fluids(Particularly Dimethyl silicone)

21. Other Ingredients Includes-
 Perfumes-
(Generally light sophisticated type with an Essential Oil)
 Preservatives- (Paraben Family, 0.1%
 Antioxidants-(BHA ,BHT, Propyl Gallate)
 UV Filters- (Benzophenone, titanium dioxide)
Favour- ammonium glycyrrhizate, saccharin

22. Manufacture of lipsticks
5 Major Operations:-
• Colour Grinding
• Melting and mixing
• Moulding
• Flaming
• Packaging

23. The Manufacturing Process

24. Melting and Mixing
The raw ingredients for the lipstick are melted
and mixed separately because of the different
types of ingredient used. Wax and oil make up
about 60 percent of the lipstick (by weight), and
pigments accounts for another 25 percent (by
weight). The mixture is then stirred for several
hours.

25. 1.
2.
Melt the base raw
ingredients together.
Get lipstick
base supplies.

26. Choose a pigment.
Stir all raw materials
into the fluid.
3.
4.

27. Molding
Fluid lipstick that can be strained and
molded. Molding is done at specific
temperatures to eliminate certain unwanted
elements by the use of fast cooling in
automated molds which are kept cold by
refrigeration. This also prevents formation of
air bubbles in the molds

28. 5. Pour liquid lipstick
into mold
Place it into a fridge
until frozen into form
6.

29. The lipstick is returned to a solid
and is now ready to be extracted
from the mold.
Once removed, the excess is shaved
off
7.
8.

30. Packaging the Product for Sale
The final step in the manufacturing
process is the packaging of the lipstick
tube. Packaging for lipsticks varies,
depending on what will happen at the
point of sale in the retail outlet.

31. 9.
An empty tube will be pushed down
over the lipstick.

32. 10.
Finished!

33. Types of lipsticks

34. Pearlescent lipstick
• Pearlescent pigments
possess optical effects
that serve decorative
purposes.
• Titanium dioxide flakes
are not single crystals
but polycrystalline and
slightly porous.
• Packed with Vitamin E
and Castor Oils for
continuous moisture.

35. Formulation
SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENT PERCENTAGE
A OZOKERITE 3.00
CANDELILLA WAX 9.00
YELLOW CARNAUBA WAX 3.00
BEESWAX 2.00
GLYCERYL DILAURATE 5.00
C12 C15 ALCOHOL LACTATE 5.00
ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 12.00
CASTOR OIL 26.00
LANOLIN 9.20
MINERAL OIL 5.00
OCTYL DIMETHYL PABA 0.15
ANTIOXIDANT 0.05

36. SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENTAGE
B D&C ORANGE NO. 5 ZIRCONIUM LAKE 2.25
OCTYLDODECYL STREARAYL STEARATE 5.25
C F D&C BLUE NO. 1 Al LAKE IN CASTOR OIL 0.80
D MICA AND TITANIUM DIOXIDE 10.00
E FRAGRANCE 0.30

38. Lipstick for Hot Countries
• Enriched with Botanical
extracts.
• Hydrates and protects lips
for hours
• Color pigments contain:
I) Symphytum Officinale
(Comfrey)
II)Sambucus Nigra Seed
III)Plantago Ovata Seed

39. Formulation
SOLUTION FORMULA CONTENTS PERCENATGE
A OZOKERITE 12.00
HYDROGENATED CASTOR
OIL
12.00
HYDROGENATED COCONUT
OIL
13.00
CETYL RICINOLEATE 2.50
GLYCERYL ABIETATE 2.50
ANTIOXIDANT (BHA) 0.50
B CASTOR OIL 35.00
C PIGMENTS AND PERFUMES q.s.

40. Pigments used…
• Mica
• Iron oxide (CI
77491,77492,77499)
• Titanium dioxide (CI
77891)
• Bismuth oxychloride (CI
77163)
• Red 6 lake (CI 15850)
• Red 27 lake (CI 45410)
• Red 33 lake (CI 17200)
• Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985)
• Blue 1 lake (CI 42090)
• Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140)
• Carmine (CI 75470)
• Red 7 lake (CI 15850)

42. High Gloss Lipstick
• Gives lips a glossy
luster and
sometimes subtle
color.
• Distributed as a
liquid or solid.
• Can be translucent,
or various shades
of opacity.

43. Formulation
CONTENT PERCENTAGE CONTENT PERCENTAGE
LANOLIN OIL 12.48 OLEYL ALCOHOL 32.63
C10-C30 ESTERS 7.39 CASTOR OIL 20.57
PARAFFIN WAX 2.11 C18-C36 ACID
TRIGLYCERIDE
9.51
C18-C36 ACID
GLYCOL ESTER
6.34 BHA 0.05
PERFUME 1.00 D&C RED NO. 21 0.22
TITANIUM DIOXIDE 2.85 BROWN IRON
OXIDE
0.61
D&C RED NO. 6
(BARIUM LAKE)
1.21 PEARL AGENTS 3.03

44. Pigments used
• CI 77019 (Mica),
• CI 77891 (Titanium
Dioxide),
• CI 77491/77492/77499
(Iron Oxides),
• CI 771663 (Bismuth
Oxychloride),
• CI 75470 (Carmine),
• CI 77742 (Manganese
Violet),
• CI 45380 (Red 21/Red 21
Lake/Red 22 Lake),
• CI 73360 (Red 30),
• CI 16035 (Red 40 Lake),
• CI 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake),
• CI 15985 (Yellow 6 Lake).
• CI 42090 (Blue 1 Lake),
• CI 15850 (Red 6/Red 6
Lake/Red 7/Red 7 Lake),
• CI 77947 (Zinc Oxide),

47. • The inventor is Debra Digirlamo
• It uses soluble or Solublized dyes
• It uses suitable solvents like monoalkylolamide
of mixed fatty acids or dipropylene glycol
methyl ether.
• Provides a natural and a sophisticated finish

48. Content Percent
Polyamide Resin(average MW 800) 20
Polyamide Reisin(average MW 600-700) 5
Propylene Glycol Monolaurate 28
Castor Oil 12.6
Eosin 0.3
Dipropylene glycol methyl ether 8
Ethoxylated lanolin ether 10

49. Content Percent
Ethoxylated Lanolin alcohols
(5 moles EO)
10.1
Anhydrous Isopropanol 5
Perfume 1

50. Liquid lipstick's

51. • These lipsticks provide more permanent
films
•‘Smarting’ is an issue that occurs on
application of these types of lipsticks.

53. Evaluation of finished products
• Color control – colorimetric assay
• Determination of melting point – Capilary method ( 60-
75 C )
• Droop point, softening point –temp at which the lipstick
start oozing out oil ot flatten from within the case . (
above 50 c )
• Microbial testing – ( NMT 1OO micro-org per gram)
• Rancidity
• Rupture test
• Breaking load test- adeal breaking load value- 200gm

54. • Test for stability- accelerated stability studies.
• Test for arsenic
• Test for heavy metal
• Perfume stability test

55. Defects in lipsticks
• Problems with Ingredients
• Moulding related problems

56. Formulation related problems
• Sweating: caused due to high oil content or in
oil binding
• Bleeding: separation of colored liquids from
waxy base
• Blooming: lipstick appears dull, due to higher
%age of cetyl alcohol
• Streaking: appearance of a thin line or band of
different color, expected to be caused due to
titanium dioxide

58. Moulding related problems
• Laddering: lipstick does not look smooth or
homogeneous
• Deformation: noticeable in softer formulae
• Cratering: shows up flaming when stick
develops dimples
• Mushy Failure: caused due to granularity of
carnauba wax

59. Deformation occurring when coring
takes place on side of the mould

60. LADDERING DEFORMATION CRATERING MUSHY
FAILURE

61. Hidden Problems with Ingredients

62. References:-
• Cosmetic technology by Sanju Nanda
• Harry’s Cosmeticology
•Wikipedia