Natural products for beauty care

1. CHEMISTRY OF NATURAL PRODUCTS WITH
COSMETIC VALUE
Under the guidance of
Prof.K.BHARATHI ,
MPhm,PhD.
Submitted by
A.CHANDANA,
2015MPH40001,
I/II MPHARMACY
PHARMACEUTICAL CHEMISTRY
11-O2-2016 1

2. CONTENTS
 Introduction
 Cosmetics
 Advantages
 Skin care
 Hair care
 Essential oils
 Anti oxidants
 Nail treatment
 Conclusion
 References
2

3. INTRODUCTION
• The word natural products is defined as existing in
(or) caused by nature ,cultivated (or) uncultivated ,
not artificial , wild existing in natural state .
• The word COSMETICS arises from a greek word
‘KOSMETICOS’ which means to adorn ( more
attractive ).
• Chemistry of natural products is a branch which
deals with the study of isolation , identification,
stuructural elucidation & chemical characteristics
of a compound produced by living organisms .
3

4. COSMETICS
According to U.S.F.D.A , the word cosmetics are
defined as drugs which are intended to be applied to the human
body for cleansing , beautifying, promoting attractiveness or
altering the appearance with out affecting the body’s functions .
• Cosmetics are the substances used to enhance or protect the
appearance or odour of human body .
• Cosmetics serving as bridge between personal care
products & pharmaceuticals .
• One of the main drivers of growth in natural cosmetics has
been the consumers trend towards healthy life styles.
• Cosmetics will not change the skin ,it is just used to cover
and beautify the skin .
4

5. • Ingredients used in cosmetics influences the skin’s
biological functions .
• Majority of creams & lotions are in emulsion form
naturally occurring waxes act as good moisturizers ,
lipids act as good emollient , where as saponins act
as foaming agent .
• Indian women have long used herbs such as sandal
wood and turmeric for skin care , henna to colour
hair , palms , soles & natural oils to perfumes their
bodies .
5

6. Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics over Synthetic :
• Herbal cosmetics are the modern trend in the field of beauty
and fashion.
• These agents are gaining popularity as nowadays most women
prefer natural products over chemicals for their personal care to
enhance their beauty as these products supply the body with
nutrients and enhance health and provide satisfaction as these
are free from synthetic chemicals and have relatively less side-
effects compared to the synthetic cosmetics.
6

7. SKIN
CARE
7

8. COCONUTOIL:
• It is produced by crushing copra, the dried kernel, which
contains about 60-65% of the oil.
• Coconut oil contains a high amount of glycerides of lower
chain fatty acids.
• Coconut oil is derived from the fruit or seed of the coconut
palm tree Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae.
• The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76ºF) and
thus can be used easily in liquid or solid forms and is often used
in cooking and baking.
• Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener .
8

9. Sunfloweroil:
• It is the non-volatile oil extracted from sunflower seeds
obtained from Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae.
• Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and
waxes.
• It has smoothing properties and is considered non-comedogenic
• A simple yet cost-effective oil, well tried and tested for
generations in a wide variety of emulsions formulated for face
and body Products .
lecithin
9
[3-[(9R,10R)-9,10-
dihydroxyoctadecanoyl]oxy-2-
octadecanoyloxy-propyl] 2-
(trimethylammonio)ethyl
phosphate

10. Jojobaoil:
• It is a mixture of long chain, linear liquid wax esters extracted
from the seeds of the desert shrub simmondsia chinenesis,
family simmondsiaceae.
• Jojoba oil is easily refined to remove any odor, color it is
oxidatively stable, and is often used in cosmetics as a
moisturizer and as a carrier oil for exotic fragrances.
• Human sebum and jojoba oil are virtually identical. Sebum
protects and moisturizes the skin and hair but is stripped away
by chemicals, pollutants, sun and the aging process, resulting in
dry skin and hair.
• Jojoba oil replenishes what skin and hair lose and restores them
to their natural pH balance .
10

11. Oliveoil:
• This oil is a fixed oil extracted from the fruits of olea europaea,
family oleaceae.
• The major constituents are triolein, tripalmitin, trilinolein,
tristearate, monosterate, triarachidin, squalene, β-sitosterol
and tocopherol.
• It is used as skin and hair conditioner in cosmetics like lotions,
shampoos etc. It is a potent fatty acid penetration enhancer .
trilinolein tripalmitin triarachidin tristearate 11
1,2,3-
Propanetriyl (9Z,12Z,9'Z,12'Z,
9''Z,12''Z)tris(-9,12-
octadecadienoate)
1,2,3-
Propanetriyl trihexadecanoate
1,2,3-
Propanetriyl triicosano
ate
1,2,3-Propantriyl-
trioctadecanoate

12. Aloevera:
• Aloevera is a herbal plant species belonging to liliaceae family
obtained from Aloe Barbadensis .
• It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals,
moisturizes, and softens skin.
• Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to extract the soothing
gel .
• Aloe vera contains amino acids like leucine, isoleucine,
saponin glycosides that provide cleansing action, vitamins
A,C,E,B, choline, B12 and folic acid and provide antioxidant
activity .
leucine choline
12
DL-2-Amino-4-methylpentanoic acid
Leucin
(2-Hydroxyethyl)trimethyl ammonium

13. Rhodiolarosea:
• It is commonly known as golden root, roseroot, Aaron's rod,
arctic root, king's crown, lignum rhodium, orpin rose.
• It is a plant in the Crassulaceae family that habitats in cold
regions of the world.
• It grows mainly in dry sandy ground at high altitudes in the
arctic areas of Europe and Asia, Traditional folk medicine used
R. rosea to increase physical endurance, work productivity,
longevity, resistance to high altitude sickness, and to treat
fatigue, depression, anemia, impotence, gastrointestinal
ailments, infections, and nervous system disorders
• . R. rosea is rich in phenolic compounds, known to have strong
antioxidant properties .
13

14. Carrot:
• It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family
Apiaceae.
• It is a valuable herb since ages as due to its richness in
VitaminA along with other essential vitamins.
• Carrot seed oil is used as anti-aging, revitalizing and
rejuvenating agent .
• The carrot gets its characteristic and bright orange colour from
β-carotene, and lesser amounts of α-carotene and γ-carotene. α
and β-carotenes are partly metabolized into vitamin A in
humans .
14
1,1'-[(1E,3E,5E,7E,9E,11E,13E,15E,17E)-3,7,12,16-Tetramethyl-1,3,5,7,9,11,13,15,17-octadecanonaen-
1,18-diyl]bis(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexen)

15. tulasi:
• It is obtained from the plant Ocimum Sanctum Linn. belonging
to family Lamiaceae.
• Leaves extract is used to control skin infection and
rejuvination.
• Tulsi contains hundreds of beneficial compounds and possess
strong antioxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, adaptogenic and
immune enhancing properties.
• It contains vitamin C and A, and minerals like calcium, zinc and
iron, as well as chlorophyll and many other phytonutrients.
15
Vitamin C Vitamin A
(5R)-5-[(1S)-1,2-Dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-
2(5H)-furanonec
(2E,4E,6E,8E)-3,7-Diméthyl-9-(2,6,6-triméthyl-1-
cyclohexén-1-yl)-2,4,6,8-nonatétraén-1-ol

16. Gingko:
• In China and Japan, the leaves and nuts of the Ginkgo biloba
(G. biloba) tree have been used for thousands of years to treat
various medical conditions, including poor blood circulation;
hypertension; poor memory, and depression, particularly among
the elderly; male impotence.
• In addition, it is gaining a similar reputation as an antioxidant
and anti-inflammatory agent. Ginkgo biloba belongs to family
Ginkgoaceae, which grows to a huge size .
• The G. biloba extract EGb 761, prepared from the tree's leaves,
is a natural mixture containing flavone glycosides (33%),
mostly quercetin and kaempferol derivatives, and terpenes
(6%), which has exhibited the capacity to reduce the number of
ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced sunburn cells in mice.
quercetin
16
2-(3,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)-3,5,7-trihydroxy-4H-
chromen-4-one

17. Greentea:
• The tea plant (Camellia sinensis) has been cultivated in Asia for
thousands of years .
• The 4 major polyphenolic catechins present in green tea leaves
are (2)-epicatechin (EC), EGC, (2)-EC-3-gallate, and EGCG,
which is the most abundant .
• It was found that green tea extracts or an individual green tea
polyphenol (GTPP), especially epigallocatechin (EGC)-3-
gallate (EGCG), inhibited two-stage chemical carcinogenesis
(eg, induced by 7,12-di-methylbenz(a)anthracene [DMBA] and
12-O-tetra-decanoylphorbol 13-acetate [TPA]), and
photocarcinogenesis (induced by UVB) .
epigallocatechinepicatechin 17
(2R,3R)-2-(3,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)-
3,5,7-chromanetriol

18. Calendula:
• Calendula officinalis is reported to have a remarkable
antioxidant activity, anti- inflammatory activity and wound
healing activity .
• A previous study demonstrated that the essential oil of
Calendula consists mainly of α-thujene, α-pinene, 1,8-Cineole,
dihydrotagetone and T-muurolol .
α-thujene α-pinene 1,8-Cineole 18
5-Isopropyl-2-
methylbicyclo[3.1.0]
hex-2-ene
2,6,6-
Trimethylbicyclo[3.
1.1]hept-2-ene
(1s,4s)-1,3,3-Trimethyl-
2-
oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octane

19. Turmeric:
• It is a deep yellow-to-orange powder that comes from the
underground stems of the tropical perennial herb Curcuma
longa of the family Zingiberaceae.
• Turmeric contains a wide range of phytochemicals including,
demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxycurcumin, zingiberene,
curcumol, curcumenol, eugenol, tetrahydrocurcumin,
triethylcurcumin, curcumin, turmerin, turmerones, and
turmeronols.
• Curcumin is the phytochemical that gives a yellow color to
turmeric and is now recognized as being responsible for most of
the therapeutic effects .
• Uses of turmeric include antiseptic, analgesic, anti-
inflammatory, antioxidant, antimalarial, insect- repellant, and
other activities associated to turmeric.
19
(1E,6E)-1,7-Bis(4-
hydroxy-3-
methoxyphenyl)-
1,6-heptadiene-
3,5-dione

20. hair
care
20

21. Henna:
• Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis family
Lythraceae, which contain a dye molecule called Lawsone,
which when processed produces Henna powder.
• Besides lawsone other constituents present are gallic acid,
glucose, mannitol, fats, resin (2%), mucilage and traces of an
alkaloid.
• Leaves yield henna tannic acid and an olive oil green resin,
soluble in ether and alcohol .
• Lawsone isolated from the leaves of L.inermis has shown
significant antifungal antibiotic effect .
lawsone 21
2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone

22. Neem:
• Neem or Margosa is a botanical relative of mahogany. It
belongs to the family Meliaceae.
• The Latinized name of Neem- Azadirachta indica-is derived
from the Persian.
• Azad=Free, dirakht=Tree, i-Hind=of Indian Origin.
• The common treatment for the dandruff is Neem as it produces
antifungal, antibacterial, pain-relieving, and anti- compounds
that would treat dandruff .
22

23. Shikakai:
• Acacia concinna Linn. (Leguminosae) is a medicinal plant that
grows in tropical rainforests of southern Asia.
• The fruits of this plant are used for washing hair, for improving
hair growth, as an expectorant, emetic, and purgative.
• The powder of Acacia Concinna Linn shows the presence of
saponins, alkaloid, sugar, tannin, flavanoids, anthraquinone
glycosides .
ANTHRAQUINONE
GLYCOSIDE
FLAVANOID
23
2-(3,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)-3,5-
dihydroxy-7-methoxy-4H-chromen-
4-one

24. Amla:
• Amla is the name given to the fruit of a small leafy tree
(Emblica Officinalis), which grows throughout India and yields
an edible fruit.
• It is highly praised both for its high vitamin C content and for
the precious oil, which is extracted from its seeds and pulp and
used as a treatment for hair and scalp problems.
• It is used in eye syndromes, hair loss, and children ailments
etc.
vitamin C 24
(5R)-5-[(1S)-1,2-Dihydroxyethyl]-
3,4-dihydroxy-2(5H)-furanone

25. Essential
oils
25

26. Roseoil:
• Roses are widely referred to as the world’s favorite flower in
part due to their vast diversity in plant habitat and floral
characteristics.
• There are mainly four species of roses for oil production.
• These are Rosa damascena Mill., R. gallica L., R. moschata
Herrm. and R. centifolia L. Rose oil and rose water have many
therapeutic effects.
• Rose oil helps soothe the mind and heals depression, grief,
nervous stress and tension. It also helps to heal wound and skin
health
Damascene 26
(2E)-1-(2,6,6-Trimethyl-1-
cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one

27. Eucalyptusoil:
• There are around 700 different species of Eucalyptus in the world, of which
at least 500 produce a type of essential oil.
• It is produced by steam distillation from the leaves of Eucalyptus species
(E. cinerea F. Muell., E. baueriana F. Muell., E. smithii R. T. Baker, E.
bridgesiana R. T. Baker, E. microtheca F. Muell., E. foecunda Schau., E.
pulverulenta Sims, E. propinqua Deane and Maiden, E. erythrocorys F.
Muell.) etc.
• They are widely used in the preparation of liniments, inhalants, cough
syrups, ointments, toothpaste and also as pharmaceutical flavors.
• The European Pharmacopoeia monograph for Eucalyptus oil sports a
chromatographic profile: 1,8-cineole (eucalyptol; not less than70%),
limonene (4- 12%), α-pinene (2-8%), α- phellandrene (less than 1.5%), β-
pinene (less than 0.5%), camphor (less than 0.1%)
1,8-cineole α-pinene 27

28. Antioxidants
28

29. Tamarind:
• Tamarind or Tamarindus indica L. of the Fabaceae, subfamily
Caesalpinioideae consists of amino acids, fatty acids and
minerals of tamarind plant parts.
• The most distinguished characteristic of tamarind is its sweet
acidic taste due to tartaric acid.
• Besides being a rich source of sugars, tamarind fruit is also an
excellent source of vitamin B and contain minerals, exhibit high
antioxidant capacity that appear to be associated with a high
phenolic content, and thus can be an important food source .
thiamine 29
5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-3-[(6-imino-2-methyl-1,6-
dihydro-5-pyrimidinyl)methyl]-4-methyl-1,3-
thiazol-3-ium chloride

30. Nail treatment
30

31. Tomatoes:
• Tomatoes are obtained from dried ripe fruits of the plant
“Lycopersicum esculentum” belongs to the family Solanaceae
• Tomatoes are one of the best sources of nail-
strengthening vitamins A and C, as well as the natural form of B
7 (also known as Biotin)
which is essential for healthy hair, skin, and nails.
Biotin Vitamin A 31
(2E,4E,6E,8E)-3,7-Diméthyl-9-(2,6,6-triméthyl-1-
cyclohexén-1-yl)-2,4,6,8-nonatétraén-1-ol
5-[(3aR,6S,6aS)-2-Hydroxy-3a,4,6,6a-tetrahydro-
1H-thieno[3,4-d]imidazol-6-yl]pentanoic acid

32. NettleTea :
• Nettle leaf –
an ancient natural remedy with a wide variety of uses including
for the growth of longer, stronger, healthier hair and nails –
is rich with minerals which your body needs to form new nail
tissue.
• It is obtained from the leaves of Urtica dioica L. ssp. Dioica
belongs to the family Urticaceae
• Fresh nettle leaves contain a similar range of constituents, with
smaller amounts of plant sterols, but proportionally higher
levels of flavonol glycosides such as quercitin, and carbonic and
formic acid.
32

33. Horsetail:
• Another herb known for its ability to promote stronger, healthie
r nail growth is horsetail (also known as shavegrass.) Like nettl
e leaf,horsetail contains high concentrations of nail-
strengthening vitamins and minerals.
• Horsetail, is a bushy perennial herb obtained from Equisetum
arvense belongs to Equisetaceae family
• Chemical constituents such as minerals, phenolic acids,
flavonoids ,Phenolic glycosides equisetumoside A,
equisetumoside B and equisetumoside C , triterpenoids,
alkaloids like nicotine, palustrine and palustrinine are present .
palustrine 33
(16aS)-13-[(1S)-1-Hydroxypropyl]-
1,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,13,14,16a-
dodecahydropyrido[2,1-
d][1,5,9]triazacyclotridecin-2(3H)-one

34. CoconutOil :
• Coconut oil improves strength and appearance of your nails
cuticles and skin will look healthier .
• It is produced by crushing copra, the dried kernel, which
contains about 60-65% of the oil.
• Coconut oil contains a high amount of glycerides of lower
chain fatty acids.
• Coconut oil is derived from the fruit or seed of the coconut
palm tree Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae.
• The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76ºF) and
thus can be used easily in liquid or solid forms and is often used
in cooking and baking.
• Coconut oil is excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener .
34

35. FlaxseedOil :
• Flaxseed is another wonderfully nourishing oil that benefits
nails when used daily. Flaxseed oil is full of essential fatty acids
aswell as antioxidants and minerals which promote faster,
stronger growth.
• It consists of the dried fully ripe seeds of Linum
usitatissimum Linn. Belonging to family Liliaceae.
• The seed contains approximately 40% lipids, 30% dietary fibre
and 20 % protein . Flaxseed oil is mainly found as
triacylglycerols (98%) with lower contents of phospholipids (0.9
%) and free fatty acids (0.1%) fatty acid content (linolenic acid,
omega 3; linoleic acid, omega 6; oleic acid, omega 9)
35
2-(β-D-Glucopyranosyloxy)-
2-methylpropanenitrile

36. AppleCiderVinegar
• The nutrients and acids naturally found in apple cider
vinegar are not only great for strengthening nails, they are also
known to heal and prevent microbial infections
that sometimes cause excessive breakage and yellowing .
• Apple cider vinegar, otherwise known as cider vinegar or ACV,
is a type of vinegar made from cider or apple must and has a
pale to medium amber color.
• The apple tree (Malus domestica) is a deciduous tree in
the rose family
• Apples are a rich source of
various phytochemicals including flavonoids (e.g., catechins, fl
avanols, and quercetin) and other phenolic compounds
(e.g., epicatechin and procyanidins) Ideain (cyanidin 3-O-
galactoside) is an anthocyanin .
quercetin
36

37. OliveOil:
• This oil is a fixed oil extracted from the fruits of olea europaea,
family oleaceae.
• The major constituents are triolein, tripalmitin, trilinolein,
tristearate, monosterate, triarachidin, squalene, β-sitosterol
and tocopherol.
• It is used as skin and hair conditioner in cosmetics like lotions,
shampoos etc. It is a potent fatty acid penetration enhancer .
• Olive oil is one of the best moisturizers for nails (plus skin and
hair, too!)
trilinolein 37
1,2,3-
Propanetriyl (9Z,12Z,9'
Z,12'Z,9''Z,12''Z)tris(-
9,12-octadecadienoate)

38. Jojobaoil:
• It is a mixture of long chain, linear liquid wax esters extracted
from the seeds of the desert shrub simmondsia chinenesis,
family simmondsiaceae.
• Jojoba oil is easily refined to remove any odor, color it is
oxidatively stable, and is often used in cosmetics as a
moisturizer and as a carrier oil for exotic fragrances.
• It also infuses moisture into dry hair and restores
damaged cuticles.
38

39. Conclusion
The cosmetic products are the best option to reduce skin problems
such as hyper pigmentation, skin wrinkling, skin aging and rough
skin texture etc. The demand of herbal cosmetic is rapidly
expanding. The advantages of herbal cosmetics are lower cost, side
effects free, environmental friendly, safe to use etc. Also has a great
future ahead as compared to the synthetic cosmetics. Proper
regulation of these herbs and standardization will lead to
tremendous and significant growth in herbal cosmetics field.
39

40. References
1.Joshi H (2012) Potentials of traditional medicinal chemistry in cosmetology industry;
prospectives and perspectives. Anaplastology an open access journal 1: 3.
2. Sahu AN, Jha S, Dubey SD (2011) Formulation & Evaluation of curcuminoid based
herbal face cream. Indo-Global Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 1: 77-84.
3. Pandey S, Meshya N, Viral D (2010) Herbs play an important role in the field of
cosmetics. International Journal of Pharm Tech Research 2: 632-639.
4. Gediya SK, Mistry RB, Patel UK, Blessy M, Jain HN (2011) Herbal plants : used as
cosmetics. J Nat Prod Plant Resour 1: 24-32.
5. Saha R (2012) Cosmeceuticals and Herbal drugs: practical uses. International journal
of pharmaceutical Research and Sciences 3: 59-65.
6. Sharma HD, Paramesh R (2010) Trends in aging and skin care: Ayurvedic concepts.
Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine 1: 110-113.
7. Top 7 Advantages of using Natural Cosmetics.
40

41. 8.Akinyele BO, Odiyi AC (2007) Comparative study of the vegetative morphology and
the existing taxonomic status of Aloe vera. Journal of plant sciences 2: 558-563.
9. Escamilla M, Ferre A, Hidalgo C, Fuentes N, Kaps R, et al.(2012) Revision of European
Ecolabel Criteria for Soaps, Shampoos and Hair Conditioners. Joint Research Centre
European Commission 1-40.
10. Suzuki D (2010) The “Dirty Dozen” Ingredients Investigated in the David Suzuki
Foundation Survey of Chemicals in Cosmetics. Backgrounder 1-15.
11. Occupational Exposure to Hazardous Agents.
12. (1978) International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) Monographs on the
Evaluation of Carcinogenic Risks to Humans 17: 1-365.
13. Kadam VS, Chintale AG, Deshmukh KP, Nalwad DN (2013) Cosmeceuticals an
emerging concept: A comprehensive Review. International journal of research in
pharmacy and chemistry 3: 308-316.
14. Winter RA (2009) Consumers Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients (7thedn.) Three
Rivers press United states USA.
15. Ayurvedic & Herbal Products.
41

42. 42