Formulation of vanishing cream ,cold cream & moisturizing cream .

1. PRESENTATION
ON
BUIDING BLOCKS FOR
COSMETIC SKIN CARE
CREAMS
Presented By:- Mr. Ajay A Patil
. M.Pharm – 2nd Sem
Guided By:- Dr. S.S.Mutha
Department of Pharmaceutics (2019-20)
PDEA’s SGRS COLLEGE OF PHARMACY, SASWAD

2. •What is an cream ?
A cream is an semi-solid preparation usually for application to the skin.
They are divided into two types :oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsion.
. (O/W) Creams which are composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a
continuous water phase .
. (W/O) Creams which are composed of small droplets of water dispersed in
continuous phase.

3. Types of skin creams:
• Make up creams
- Vanishing cream also called as Snow cream
• Creams for winter
- Cold cream
• Creams for dry skin
-Moisturizing cream

4. • Formulation of Creams:-
• Drug :
Drug is dissolved or emulsified in either oil or water according to
its solubility.
• Bases:
As cream are emulsion, emulsion bases are mainly used to
formulate creams. Absorption bases and water soluble bases are also
Used in formulation.
• Emulsifier/surfactant:
Anionic emulsifier- amine soaps such as triethanolamine sterates.
Non-ionic emulsifier- glycol,glycerol esters,polyols,PEG.
• Preservatives, Humectants,water, perfume and colour

5. • Manufacturing of creams by Fusion mtd :-
• Oil phase
Heating
• Water phase
Stirring
&
Mixing
Fatty acids, high fatty
alcohol, emollient,oil,
emulsifier, fat soluble
preservatives
Purified water, alcohol water
soluble preservatives
Colouring
agent,
perfume
Stirring,
mixing and
cooling

6. 1. Cold cream

7. • Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats ,usually including
beeswax and various scent agents.
• The emulsion is of a “water in oil” type .
• Cold cream is frequently referred to as a mixed emulsion,since.
Oil-in-water as well water-in-oil globules are present.
• The name cold cream derives from the cooling feeling that the creams
leaves on the skin .
• Cold cream is mainly used for skin treatment (such as facial mask or lip
balm) .
• Cold creams must primarily have an emollient action.

8. Contd:-
• During the manufacturing of cold cream, temperature
Should be controlled to prevent discolouration , granule
formation and bleeding of oil in water.
• A smooth consistency of cold cream can be achieved by
reducing warm component or adding lanolin or absorption
base.
• Spermaceti , kerosene and paraffin wax makes it gloss where
as lanolin provides softness.

9. .Ideal characteristics of cold cream
• (Should have optimum pH (4.6-6). Because skin pH ranges from
(4.5-7) weakly acidic.
• Consistency should be optimum & stable.
• Should not be sticky & grainy.
• Should be attractive in apperance
• Must be non-irritant & non-inflammatory and intoxic.

10. •Ingredients used for preparation of cold cream:
•Mineral oil (liquid paraffin) emulsifier.
•White beeswax : Thickening agent and
. ( Base for the cream)
•Borax (alkali) used is responsible for whiteness of
cold cream .
•Water, alcohol (as solvent) & preservative.
•Perfume: Provide fragance(rose water).

11. Formulation :-

12. Method of preparation By:- (Trituration method)
• Melt the liq.paraffin & beeswax in a jacketed vessel at 75°c and
maintain heat
• In another container , dissolve borax and preservative in water and
heat to 75°c (aqeous phase)
.
• Slowly add this aqeous phase to the mineral oil –besswax melted oil
phase
• Triturate uniformly or vigoursly in mortar pestle to form cream ,then
cool to 35°c and later add perfume.

13. 2. Vanishing Cream

14. • Vanishing creams gets the name from the fact that it leaves
no trace when rubbed on to skin.
• These are ‘oil in water’ type emulsions because they are water
removable and it contains o/w emulsifier that contains large
percentage of water & stearic acid or other oleaginous
components.
• After application the continuous phase evapourates, leaving
behind a thin residue film of the stearic acid.
• Traditional formulae of vanishing creams are based on stearic
acid.

15. Key ingredients used in production are:
• Stearic acid
-measure component of vanishing cream, also imparts attractive
apperance to the cream.
-with stearic acid white creams are produced and sometimes because of this
whiteness these creams are called ‘Snow’.
-soap formed In-situ between a suitable alkali & stearic acid determines the
hardness of cream
-stearic acid of fine quality (triple pressed) should be used in these creams and
total proportion should not exceed 25%. triple pressed stearic acid is a mixture
of 55% palmitic acid & 45% stearic acid and it is pressed thricely.

16. • Alkali :-
e.g koH, NaoH, triethanolamine & borax , carbonates , ammonia.
-KoH widely used since makes cream of fine texture with out excessive
Hardness.
-NaoH causes hardness of cream Hence both KoH & NaoH are use in
combination.
-Borax gives whiteness to the cream But also produce grainyness of cream
-Hence borax used in combination with KoH or triethanolamine to form
white emulsion.
-Carbonates not favoured because liberates Carbon dioxide and cream
becomes spongy.
-Ammonia causes discolouration of cream .

17. • Formulation
Ingredients Percent of total
Stearic acid. 17
. KoH 07
Glycerol (humectant) 5
Water to make 100
Perfume & preservative. q s

18. Method of preparation:-( Fusion + Trituration)
Dissolve koH in water , add Glycerol and preservatives
And heat to 80°c .
In another vessel melt stearic acid (oily phase ) and heat to 75°c.
Add alkali solution to the melted oily phase with good agitation or
Trituration When mixture has cooled to about 45°c add the Perfume
and continuous slow mixing until cool.

19. 3.Moisturizing cream

20. Moisturizing cream
• When water is lost from stratum corneum more rapidly then it
is recieved from lower layers of the skin .
• The skin becomes dehydrated the dehydrated skin loses its
flexibility and appears rough.
• Water (moisture) plasticizes stratum corneum, provides
flexibility makes it soft.and soft skin appears smooth.

21. • Those cream which restore water (moisture) to the stratum
corneum are called moisturizing cream.
• Water contained in a cream is lost by evaporation when the
cream is applied to the body .
• Therefore, a moisturizing cream must provide a non-volatile
residual film capable of retaining the moisture of the skin as
well as moisture which is applied directly by the cream.
• Emollients imports smoothness and general sense of well-
being to the skin as determined by touch eg.glycerin

22. Formulation :-

23. Evaluation of creams
1. pH of Cream
2. Viscosity
3. Spreadability
4. Irritancy test
5. Patch test
6. Stability studies
-(globule size & phase separation)
7. Partition coefficient of cream.

24. • Reference
• B.M. Mithal and R.N. Shah handbook of cosmetic.
• Gupta . Pharmaceutics and cosmetics
• S.Saraf , cosmetics a practical manual 2nd edition
• P.P Sharma

25. Thank you ...