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AISSMS College of Pharmacy, Pune
EMOLLIENTS IN COSMETICS
In Subject
COSMETICS AND COSMECEUTICALS
Guided By - Dr. Mangesh Bhalekar Sir
(Department of Pharmaceutics)
Presented by- Dhananjay S. Pagare.
(M.Pharm 1st Year)

Contents
• Introduction
• Definition
• How it works
• Types
• When to apply
• Side effects
• Application
• References
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Introduction
• The term emollient refers to materials that are able to soften
skin. The word is actually derived from mollire which is a Latin verb
meaning “to soften.”
• In the cosmetic formulating world emollients are ingredients
incorporated into products to improve the feel of skin and hair. Use of
these ingredients for cosmetic purposes dates back to the earliest
days of recorded history.
• Emollients are also sometimes known as moisturizer
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Definition
• Emollients are moisturising treatments applied directly to the skin to
smooth and hydrate it. They cover skin with a protective film to trap
in moisture.
• An emollient is a humectant, a lubricant, and an occluder. Occlusion
puts a layer of oil on the skin's surface, slowing down water loss. A
humectant enhances the surface of the skin's capacity to hold water.
A lubricant reduces friction when anything rubs against the skin
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The common emollients are:
• Shea butter
• Cocoa butter
• Mineral oil
• Lanolin
• Petrolatum
• Paraffin
• Beeswax
• Squalene
• Coconut, jojoba, sesame, almond,
and other plant oils
• Cetyl alcohol
• Olive oil (oleic acid)
• Triethylhexanoin
Lanolin
Paraffin
Triethylhexanoin5

How do emollients work?
• Emollients are available in different forms like creams, ointments,
lotions or gels that will have a different feel on your skin. Many
contain lipids, like white soft paraffin, which are ingredients that work
as occlusives, meaning they create a barrier to help prevent water
from getting out of the skin. Some emollients also contain ingredients
like urea that act as humectants, which are able to attract moisture to
the skin and keep it there.
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Types
There are many differente emollients in many different formulation.
Most can be purchased over the counter.
• Soap substituents
• Creams
• Lotions
• Ointments
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Soap substitute
• Mix a small amount (around teaspoonful) of soap
substitute in the palm of your hand with a little warm
water and spread it over damp or dry skin. Rinse and put
the skin dry, being careful not to rub it. You can use soap
substitutes for handwashing, showering or in the bath
• Emollient soap substitutes do not foam but are just as
effective at cleaning the skin as soap. Soap substitutes
can either be applied before bathing, showering or
washing, or while in the water
• Ingredients
PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM
ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE
PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE
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Creams
• Creams contain a mixture of fat and water and
feel light and cool to the skin. For this reason
many people with eczema prefer creams for day
time use. All creams contain preservatives and
people can become sensitive to them, although
this is not common.
• AproDerm® Emollient Cream contains:
• Active Ingredients: White Soft Paraffin 15%, Liquid Paraffin
6%.
• Other Ingredients: Ceteareth-20, Macrogol Cetostearyl
Ether, Cetostearyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydrogen Phosphate,
Phosphoric Acid / Sodium Hydroxide, Euxyl PE 9010,
Purified Water.
• Storage:
• Store below 25°C. Do not refrigerate or freeze.
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Lotion
• Lotions contain more water and less fat than creams, but are not very
effective at moisturising the skin. However, they are useful for hairy
areas of the body
• Contains the most water and least oil, so are the least effective in
moisturising the skin. They usually contain preservatives (ingredients
that help to protect the product from bacteria/germs and increase its
shelf life) which may cause skin irritation. Lotions are useful for hairy
areas such as scalps and areas of weepy skin.
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Ointments
• Ointments do not contain preservatives. Ointments can be very greasy
and some people find them cosmetically unacceptable. However,
because they are very effective at holding water in the skin, they are
useful for very dry and thickened skin. Ointments should not be used on
weeping eczema – use a cream or lotion instead.
• Greasy in nature, they are usually made of white soft paraffin or liquid
paraffin and are ideal for very dry or thickened skin. Normally applied at
night, they do not usually contain preservatives and are therefore less
likely to cause skin reactions.
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When emollient applied?
• Emollients can be applied as often as you like to keep the skin well moisturized
and in good condition. Ideally, this should be done at least three or four times a
day.
• It's especially important to regularly apply an emollient to your hands and face, as
they're exposed to the elements more than any other part of your body.
• Certain activities, such as swimming or gardening, can irritate the skin. It may
help to apply an emollient before doing these.
• It's a good idea to protect babies' hands and cheeks with an emollient before
meal times to stop them getting sore from food and drink.
• Emollients are best applied after washing your hands, taking a bath or showering
because this is when the skin most needs moisture. The emollient should be
applied as soon as you have patted your skin dry to ensure it is properly
absorbed.
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How much emollient should be applied?
• The quantity of leave-on emollient
required will vary depending on the
size of the person, the severity of the
skin condition, and whether the
emollient is also being used as a
soap substitute. As a general guide,
if you needed to treat the whole
body, the recommended quantities
used are 600g per week for an adult,
and 250-500g per week for a child
under 12.
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Possible side effects from emollients
• Irritant reactions: These include an overheating, 'burning' sensation
or stinging. It is usually caused by a reaction to a certain ingredient
contained in the cream or lotion. If the stinging is painful and
continues, try a different emollient.
• Folliculitis: Some emollients that work by sealing wounds or cracks in
the skin with a protective barrier (occlusive) can occasionally cause
hair follicles to become blocked and inflamed (folliculitis) and cause
boils (painful, red bumps on the skin)
• Facial rashes: Some facial emollients can cause rashes on the face and
can aggravate acne (a skin condition that occurs on the face and
commonly affects people during their teenage years)
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Applications
• Moisturizers and emollients are recommended for people with eczema and psoriasis,
at any age.
• One study that looked at the feasibility of skin barrier treatment from birth
concluded: "The results of this trial demonstrate that emollient therapy from birth
represents a feasible, safe, and effective approach for atopic dermatitis prevention. If
confirmed in larger trials, emollient therapy from birth would be a simple and low-
cost intervention that could reduce the global burden of allergic diseases.“
• People with eczema or psoriasis can find soap too drying to the skin , Many bar
soaps, liquid soaps, and cleansers and perfume products can irritate the skin.
Emollient soaps substitutes do not foam but they clean the hands and skin, They can
be applied before washing or in the water.
• Aqueous creams or emulsifying ointments are good alternatives for hand and bath
soaps, because they do not strip the skin of its surface layer, as most soaps do.
Aqueous creams can be used instead of shaving foam.
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• Emollient creams and ointments are less greasy than ointments, but
they might sting after the first application, especially if the skin is very
dry. Symptoms normally settle down within a few days.
• For children who are at risk of developing infected eczema, bath oils
with an antiseptic may offer protection, but these should be used
occasionally. The label will state the recommended amount that
should be used. A high concentration may cause skin irritation.
• Bubble baths can dry and irritate the skin, but bathing helps to
remove skin and dirt that could contribute to infection. Emollient
bath additives or bath oils added to bathwater can help prevent the
loss of moisture from the skin.
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References
• Dhar S, Parikh D, Rammoorthy R, Srinivas S, Sarkar R, Inamadar A, Shah M,
Banerjee R, Kanwar AJ, Mendiratta V, George R, Gulati R. “Role of
emollients”. Indian J Paediatr Dermatol 2017;18:179-81
• Department of dermatology, version 1 ,Review December 2014, Oxford
University Hospitals NHS Trust, Oxford OX3 9DU.
• https://www.webmd.com/drugs/2/drug-465/emollient-topical/details
• http://www.eczema.org/emollients
• https://www.sharecare.com/health/moisturizer-ingredients/what-
emollients-skin-care-products
• https://www.e45.co.uk/your-routine/what-are-emollients/#section4
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