This document outlines a lesson plan for Chapter 14 on Principles of Hair Design. The lesson objectives are to describe sources of hair design inspiration, list the elements and principles of hair design, understand the influence of hairstyle and texture design, identify different facial shapes and appropriate hairstyles, and explain design considerations for men. The lesson includes learning activities like forming acronyms with hair design concepts and a scenario where students design a new hairstyle for a client needing a makeover. Key concepts covered are the five elements of design, five principles of design, how hair type influences styling, and designing hairstyles that harmonize with different facial structures.

1. Chapter 14 Principles of Hair Design
Outline
INSTRUCTOR NAME: Rosie L. Hammond DATE TAUGHT: Jan 23, 2022
SUBJECT: Hair Care
TOPIC: Principles of Hair Design
LESSON OBJECTIVES:
Upon competition of the lesson, the student will be able to:
1. Describe sources of hair design inspiration.
2. List the five elements of hair design and how they relate to styling.
3. Explain the five principles of hair design and recognize their specific contribution to
a hairstyle.
4. Understand the influence of hairstyle and texture design.
5. Identify the seven different facial shapes and design a beneficial one for each.
6. Explain two design considerations for men.
IMPLEMENTS, EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES REQUIRED:
STUDENT INSTRUCT
OR
ITEMS
X X TEXTBOOK
X X WORKBOOK
X X NOTEBOOK
X X PENS, PENCILS
TEACHING AIDS (Audio/visual equipment, handouts, etc., used by instructor):
1. Whiteboard
2. LCD Projector
3. Standard DVD Series
FACILITY: Theory Classroom, Building 3 – Room 112
TIME ALLOTMENT: 1 to 2 hours (adjust based on the school schedule and student
activities/participation)
PRIOR STUDENT ASSIGNMENT:
1. Read Chapter _14_, Milady Cosmetology Standard Textbook, 2016
EDUCATOR REFERENCES:
1. Milady Cosmetology Standard Textbook, 2016
2. Milady Cosmetology Standard Workbook, 2016
NOTES TO EDUCATOR:
1. Review chapter, entire lesson plan, and Milady Standard Cosmetology
instructor-support slides before the lesson.
2. Ensure that new terms are defined.
3. Ask questions to assess understanding.
4. Reteach as needed.
5. Ensure that learners are actively involved.

2. Outline Chapter 14
PRINCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN
I. Learning Objectives:
A. Describe sources of hair design inspiration.
B. List the five elements of hair design and how they relate to styling.
C. Explain the five principles of hair design and recognize their specific contribution
to a hairstyle.
D. Understand the influence of hairstyle and texture design.
E. Identify the seven different facial shapes and design a beneficial style for each.
F. Explain two design considerations for men.
II. Why Study Principles of Hair Design?
A. You will be better able to understand why a specific hairstyle will or will not be
the best for a client.
B. The principles of design will serve as helpful guidelines to assist you in achieving
your styling vision.
C. You will be able to create haircuts and styles to help clients hide areas of concern
and emphasize their most attractive areas.
III. Discover the Philosophy of Design
A. Have a vision: The vision for a design can come from movies, pictures, other
people, etc.
B. Follow a plan-A good hair designer always sees the end result before beginning.
C. Work at the plan-Once inspired, decide which tools and techniques you need to
use. Organize your thoughts.
D. Try and try again-It takes time and experience to find out which hairstyle goes
best with each face shape. Practice makes the process perfect!
E. Take calculated risks-Practice, Practice, to build confidence to take risks. Taking
risks makes creativity.
IV. Define the Elements of Design
A. *Line-Defines form and space (usually more than one line).
1. Horizontal lines (creates width)
2. Vertical lines (creates length and height)
3. Diagonal lines (emphasizes facial features between horizontal and vertical)
4. Curved lines-Circular lines that soften a design.
B. Designing with lines:
1. Single lines-Used in one-length hairstyles. Best used with clients wanting low
maintenance.

3. 2. Parallel lines-Repeating lines in a hairstyle (example, crimping hair or crinkle
wave).
3. Contrasting lines-Horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90-degree angle
(creates a distinct look/hardstyle).
4. Transitional lines- curved lines used to blend and soften horizontal or vertical
lines ((used in color blending).
5. Directional lines-Emphasize a forward or backward movement.
C. *Form-The mass or general outline of the hairstyle. It is three-dimensional and
has length, depth, and width).
D. *Space- The area surrounding the hairstyle occupies (curls, curves, waves, or any
combination).
E. Design Texture:
1. Design texture-Refers to the directional or wave pattern of the hair.
2. Creating texture with styling tools-Using styling tools to temporarily add
texture (curling irons, hot rollers, flat irons, etc.).
3. Changing design texture with chemicals-Chemicals that can permanently
change the texture of the hair.
4. Tips for designing directional wave patterns (keratin, relaxers).
F. Hair color-Visually and psychologically plays an essential role to the client. Has a
positive impact on one's mood.
1. Dimension with color-The look of the hair design can change depending on the
chosen colors.
2. Lines with color- The eye is drawn to the lightest color. Color helps create lines
of attention.
3. How color selection can influence a design: Light and warm colors create the
illusion of volume; dark colors create the illusion of less volume.
V. Understanding the Principles of Hair Design
A. Proportion-The close relationship of one thing to another.
B. Body proportion-Creating a hairstyle while considering the client's body shape
and size.
C. Balance-Creating equal proportions to create symmetry.
1. Symmetrical balance-One side looks like the other side (an imaginary line
drawn in the middle).
2. Asymmetrical balance- The side of the hair is positioned differently from the
other side.
D. Rhythm-Is a regular pulsation or recurrent movement in a design (tight curls).
E. Emphasis- (Focus)-What draws the eye first before traveling to the rest of the
design.
F. Harmony- The creation of unity in design and the most critical art principles.
1. A form with exciting lines.
2. A pleasing color or combination of colors and textures.
3. A balance and rhythm that together strengthen the design.
VI. Recognize the Influence of Hair Style and Texture on Hairstyle

4. Guidelines:
A. Straight fine hair- Usually hugs the head (left natural-not many styling options).
B. Straight, medium hair-Responds well to blow-drying, rollers, and thermal styling.
C. Straight coarse hair-Hard to curl. Takes well to thermal with flat tools. Chemical
services may take longer to process.
D. Wavy, fine hair-Minimum frizz and a bit fragile. Responds well to blow-drying
and chemicals.
E. Wavy medium hair-Easy to style (responds well to heat; can curl easily).
F. Wavy coarse hair-Has a lot of volumes; soft perm can be used for wash and wear.
Keratin or a chemical relaxer can be used for a straight look
G. Curly fine hair-Responds well to mild relaxers/keratin. This type requires a lot of
attention.
H. Curly medium hair curly coarse hair-Gives a romantic/soft look. Responds well
to color and chemical treatments.
I. Curly Coarse Hair-Coiled to extremely coiled hair /no movement/shrinks/cut
dry.
J. Very curly, fine hair-Best cut short-
K. Extremely curly, medium hair-Tends to widen as it grows longer. Chemicals tend
to make the hair narrower. This hair braids skillfully.
L. Extremely curly, coarse hair-Tends to widen; not much movement. Tends to be
better with short hair.
INSERT HERE IN THE LESSON PLAN!
Activity /Game:
Scenario "Make-Over!"
It is Thursday (right after lunch), and the salon is not too crowded. Ms. Gates bursts into
the salon door and says in a distressed voice, "Please help me! I have a class reunion this
coming weekend. I look like my classmates' grandmother instead of their classmate. I want
a change. I have been doing my own hair for over 10 years and admit that it is a mess!"
It is your turn to take the next walk-in, and you have no other appointments scheduled
for the rest of the day. You have only been out of cosmetology school for one month!
Automatically, you panic when you see that Ms. Gates' hair is almost entirely gray, is dry
and coiled tightly, is very long, and is wound in what looks like two huge balls on the top of
her head! What you really notice is that she is a petite lady with the most beautiful, evident
heart-shaped face that you have ever seen!
--Learning Objectives to Be Addressed (Chapter 14)—
*Understanding the influence of hair design and texture design.
*Identify an appropriate hairstyle to match a specific facial and body shape.
Materials Needed:

5. *8 one-half by 11-inch sheets of plain paper
*Lead pencils
*Milady Standard Textbook
Instructions:
*Explain step-by-step what you would do for Ms. Gates.
-Client analysis
-Haircut; Color; Design; Processing; Styling? (To fit body and facial structure).
*Draw a simple profile sketch of the hairstyle/design you gave to Ms. Gates (At least 5
inches tall) on plain paper using a lead pencil.
*Post finished drawings on the wall for classmates to view and discuss.
**This activity may take 30 to 35 minutes**
VII. Create Harmony between Hairstyle and Facial Structure
(One of the most challenging tasks for a hairstylist)
A. Oval:
1. Ideal for evaluating all other facial shapes.
2. Forehead is slightly wider than the chin.
3. Any type of hairstyle is pleasing unless glasses are worn.
B. Round:
1. Round hairline and round chin; broad face.
2. Objective is to create the illusion of making a face appear longer/slimmer.
3. Best hairstyle is one with volume or height at the top and closeness or no
volume at the sides.
C. Square:
1. Wide at the temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, and squared at the
chin.
2. Objective is to offset or round out the square features.
3. Soften the hair around the temples and the jaw by bringing the shape close to
the head form; create volume between the temples and jaw by adding width around the
ear.
D. Triangular (Pear-Shaped):
1. Narrow forehead, wide jaw, and chin line.
2. Objective is to create the illusion of width in the forehead.
3. Hairstyle with volume at the temples and some height at the top is best for this
shape.
E. Oblong:
1. Long, narrow face with hollow cheeks.
2. Objective is to make a face appear shorter and broader.
3. Keep the hair reasonably close to the top of the head. Add volume on the sides
to create the illusion of width.
F. Diamond:
1. Narrow forehead; extreme width through the cheekbones, and narrow chin.
2. Objective is to reduce the width across the cheekbone line.

6. 3. Best hairstyle increases the fullness across the jawline and forehead while
keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line.
G. Inverted triangle (Heart-Shaped)
1. Wide forehead and narrow chin line.
2. Objective is to increase the width in the lowest part of the face.
3. Style the hair close to the face with no volume; gradually increase the
silhouette (keeping the widest point at the jaw and neck area).
VIII. Profiles
(Outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view)
A. Straight profile- (Ideal)-When viewed, the face is neither curving outward nor
inward.
B. Convex profile-Has a receding forehead and chin. It calls for an arrangement of
curls or bangs on the forehead. Keep hair close to the nape and move forward in the chin
area.
C. Concave profile-Has a prominent forehead and chin and other features receding
forward. Softly style the hair at the nape with an upward movement.
D. *Special Considerations:
1. Top third of the face
-Wide forehead-Direct hair forward over the sides of the forehead.
-Narrow forehead-Direct hair away from the face at the forehead.
-Receding forehead-Direct the bangs over the forehead with an outward
volume.
-Large forehead-Use bangs with little or no volume.
2. Middle third of the face
-Close-set eyes-Direct hair back and away from the face and temples.
-Wide-set eyes-Use a higher half bang to create length in the face.
-Crooked nose-Use off-centered styles.
-Wide, flat nose-Use center part; draw hair away from the face.
-Long, narrow nose-Use styles that move away from the face.
-Prominent nose- Bring hair forward from the nose and forehead.
3. Lower third of the face
-Round jaw-Use straight lines at the jawline.
-Square jaw-Use curved lines at the jawline.
-Long jaw-Hair should be complete and fall below the jaw to direct attention
from it.
-Receding chin-Hair should be directed forward in the chin area.
-Small chin-Move the hair up and away from the face along the chin line.
-Large chin Hair should not be longer or shorter than the chin.
E. Head Shape- Not all head shapes are round. Design hairstyles that complement
the individual client's profile.
F. Styling for people who wear glasses-Keep that fact in mind when styling their
hair.
G. Hair Partings:
1. Can be the focal part of a hairstyle

7. 2. It is difficult to work against a natural crown parting.
3. Bang parting basics:
-Triangular parting is fundamental and gives asymmetrical balance to the face.
-Diagonal parting gives height to a round or square face and width to a long,
thin face.
-Curved part is used for a receding hairline of the high forehead.
4. Styled Partings:
-Center parts are classic. Used for an oval face.
-Side parting is used to direct hair across the head. They help to develop height.
-Diagonal back partings are used to create the illusion of width or height.
-Zigzag partings create a dramatic effect.
IX. Design for Men
A. All of the same styling /skincare/etc. Elements learned in this chapter that works
for women works for men.
B. Men's hairstyles have changed since the 1960s.
C. Choosing facial hair design:
1. Men can use beards, mustaches, and others to cover facial problems or shapes
that they do not like (small chins, wide /round faces, etc.)
2. Balding men can use well-groomed facial hair to distract from thinning hair.
Activity/Game:
“ACRONYMS”
Objectives: Concepts from all learning objectives in Chapter 14 will be used
(depending upon what topics the students select to form their acronyms) from the
chapter).
Materials needed: Milady Standard Textbook
Instructions:
-Take any primary concept topic/concept and make an acronym with the terms (Short
phrases will be accepted if it is a long listing). Acronyms help remember and study
groupings/ objects that belong – classifying.
FACIAL STRUCTURE
Example: ROOTS= ROUND +OVAL+ OBLONG +TRIANGULAR +SQUARE
DI=DIAMOND + INVERTED TRIANGLE
-Instructor will group the students in trios to form at least three acronyms with
concepts in Chapter 14.
The instructor will share the acronyms with the students to study and remember the
concepts defined by the learning objectives.
Glossary:
1. Space- The area surrounding the form or the place the hairstyle occupies.

8. 2. Parallel lines-Repeating lines in a hairstyle may be straight or curved.
3. Directional lines-Lines with a definite forward or backward movement.
4. Design texture- Wave patterns must be considered when designing a style.
5. Single lines-A hairstyle with only one line such as the one length style
6. Contrasting lines- Horizontal and vertical lines that meet at a 90-degree angle and
create a hard edge.
7. Vertical lines- Lines straight up and down; create length and height in hair design.
8. Horizontal lines-Lines parallel to the floor and relative to the horizon; create width
in hair design.
9. Curved lines-Lines moving in a circular or semicircular direction; used to soften a
design.
10. Harmony- The creation of unity in a design is the most essential art principle. Holds
all the elements of the hair design together.
11. Form- The mass or general outline of a hairstyle.
12. Emphasis- Known as the focus, the place where the eye is first drawn.
13. Rhythm- A regular pulsation or recurrent movement pattern in a design.
14. Asymmetrical balance- Opposite side of the hairstyle is different in volume.
Review /Summary Questions:
1. What are some possible sources that a hair designer can use for inspiration?
Answer: pp. 284-285
A great hair designer can gain inspiration from movies, television, magazines, videos,
people on the street, or anywhere. But, of course, nature is another excellent place to get
inspiration, especially with colors, shapes, and movement.
2. What are the five elements of design?
Answer: pp. 285-289
The five design elements are line, form, space, design texture, and hair color.
3. What are the five principles of design?
Answer: pp. 290-293
The five design principles are proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony.
4. What influences does hair type have on a hairstyle?
Answer: p.293
All hair has natural wave patterns that must be considered before the stylist begins to
work on a client's hair. These patterns can be straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly.
Another characteristic of the hair is its texture, which can be fine, medium, or coarse.
Wave patterns and hair texture make up our hair structure and density.
So, with the above facts in mind, the stylist has to know our hair characteristics to
determine what type of products to use, what kind of thermal heating process to use,
and maybe help design a pleasing, long-lasting style that the client can maintain at home.
5. List and describe the seven facial shapes and explain how hair design can highlight
or camouflage facial features.
Answer: pp.296-298
*Oval:
1. Ideal for evaluating all other facial shapes.
2. Forehead is slightly wider than the chin.

9. 3. Any type of hairstyle is pleasing unless glasses are worn.
*Round:
1. Round hairline and round chin; broad face.
2. Objective is to create the illusion of making a face appear longer/slimmer.
3. Best hairstyle is one with volume or height at the top and closeness or no volume at
the sides.
*Square:
1. Wide at the temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, and squared at the chin.
2. Objective is to offset or round out the square features.
3. Soften the hair around the temples and the jaw by bringing the shape close to the
head form; create volume between the temples and jaw by adding width around the ear.
*Triangular (Pear-Shaped):
1. Narrow forehead, wide jaw, and chin line.
2. Objective is to create the illusion of width in the forehead.
3. Hairstyle with volume at the temples and some height at the top is best for this
shape.
*Oblong:
1. Long, narrow face with hollow cheeks.
2. Objective is to make a face appear shorter and broader.
3. Keep the hair reasonably close to the top of the head. Add volume on the sides to
create the illusion of width.
*Diamond:
1. Narrow forehead; extreme width through the cheekbones, and narrow chin.
2. Objective is to reduce the width across the cheekbone line.
3. Best hairstyle increases the fullness across the jawline and forehead while keeping
the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line.
* Inverted triangle (Heart-Shaped)
1. Wide forehead and narrow chin line.
2. Objective is to increase the width in the lowest part of the face.
3. Style the hair close to the face with no volume; gradually increase the silhouette
(keeping the widest point at the jaw and neck area).
6. How do the elements and principles of hair design apply to men?
Answer: p. 303
Men can receive the same benefits as women when they visit a hair salon! The same
elements of design apply to men as to women. Men can select styles that suit their facial
and body shape and thinning hair. Men can decide to wear facial hair and keep it well-
groomed at the salon. That facial hair usually consists of a mustache, beard, or others.
Some men use facial hair to distract from their baldness or thinning hair. Most men are
just as conscious of what is in style or look best (as hair design) as women.
I. Evaluation/Questions:
Label each of the following statements as either true or false.
-----1. Partings are used to highlight facial features. True p. 302
-----2. The ideal profile is the straight profile. True p. 298
-----3. Curly, medium hair creates a wide silhouette when styled. True p. 294

10. -----4. A fast rhythm can be seen in more minor shaping or long waves. False p.292.
-----5. Body proportion is more important to women than men when choosing a style.
False p.290.
II. Multiple Choices:
Select the correct word(s) to complete each of the following sentences.
-----1. Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry in hairstyling
(relationship of height to width) is called_________. C p. 291
A. Form
B. Shape
C. Balance
D. Proportion
-----2. __________ is the close relationship of one thing to another; the harmonious
relationship among parts or things. A p. 290
A. Proportion
B. Balance
C. Shape
D. Form
-----3. A _________ is an outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view.
D. p. 298
A. Shape
B. Form
C. Proportion
D. Profile
-----4. The contour and proportions of the ______shape form the basis and ideals for
evaluating and modifying all other facial types. A p. 296
A. Oval
B. Round
C. Triangular
D. Oblong
-----5. Line, form, and ______ define the elements of design (shape). C p. 285-286
A. Contour
B. Profile
C. Shape
D. Proportion
-----6. Wave patterns that must be taken into consideration when designing a style are
called -------- ----------. C p. 287
A. Design Patterns
B. Pattern Designs
C. Design Textures
D. Texture Patterns
-----7. The emphasis in a hair design is known as the --------. D p. 292
A. Main-point
B. Apex
C. Summit

11. D. Focus
-----8. Wavy, medium hair offers the most ---------- in styling. B p. 294
A. Difficulty
B. Versatility
C. Complexity
D. Smoothness
-----9. -------partings in hairstyling are very classic when designing a hairstyle. D. p.302
A. Zigzag
B. Partial
C. Side
D. Center
-----10. Facial types are broad at the temples, narrow at the middle third of the face,
and squared off at the jaw. B p. 296
A. Oblong
B. Square
C. Oval
D. Round
III. Essay:
1. Why is it important to consider the hair's type/texture and wave patterns before
starting the styling design process?
Answer: p. 293-295
All hair has natural wave patterns that must be considered before the stylist begins to
work on a client's hair. These patterns can be straight, wavy, curly, or extremely curly.
Another characteristic of the hair is its texture, which can be fine, medium, or coarse.
Wave patterns and hair texture make up our hair structure and density.
So, with the above facts in mind, the stylist has to know our hair characteristics to
determine what type of products to use, what kind of thermal heating process to use,
and maybe help design a pleasing, long-lasting style that the client can maintain at home.
2. What benefits can men receive from visiting a stylist in a hair salon?
Answer: p. 303
Men can receive the same benefits as women when they visit a hair salon! They can
select styles that suit their facial and body shape and thinning hair. Men can decide to
wear facial hair and keep it well-groomed at the salon. That facial hair usually consists of
a mustache, beard, or others. Some men use facial hair to distract from their baldness or
thinning hair. Most men are just as conscious of what is in style or look best (as hair
design) as women.
IV. Short Answer Questions:
1. What determines a client's facial shape?
Answer: p. 295
A client's facial shape is determined by the position and prominence of the facial
bones.

12. 2. What is the best hairstyle/design for someone with an (asymmetrical) crooked
nose?
Answer: p.300
Off-centered styles are best because they attract the eye away from the nose.
3. What type of wave changes is considered permanent?
Answer: p.288
Chemical wave changes are considered permanent until new growth of hair is long
enough to alter the design.