Barong Tagalog is a traditional Filipino men's formal garment that is decorated using various embroidery styles. Common embroidery techniques used include callado embroidery, hand embroidery, and machine embroidery. Callado embroidery involves pulling out fibers from the fabric to create open thread work patterns. Hand embroidery requires skilled labor but produces intricate designs, while machine embroidery is cheaper but still requires skill. Popular embroidery styles for barong include pechera (simple front designs), raya (striped patterns extending to sleeves and back), and batok (patterns extending to shoulders and sleeves). Special styles are customized designs that vary from standard styles.
4. Callado Embroidery
Calado (or Callado) is a distinctive feature of Barong
Tagalog.
This is a well known style of embroidery originating
from Lumban (Burdang Lumban) in which the fibres are
pulled out from the fabric to reduce the fibre count and
the remaining intact fibres are then stitched together
into a variety of open thread work patterns.
5.
6. Hand Embroidery
Hand embroidery is used to vividly execute barong
embellishment designs.
It requires a skilled embroiderer and the process is
laborious and time consuming making hand-
embroidered barong expensive.
7. This is the standard type of embroidery that is used in
executing any type of design in piña, piña-silk, abaca,
and cocoon fabrics and in executing ethnic designs in
jusi fabric.
8.
9. Machine Embroidery
Machine embroidery, which is a cheaper option for
hand embroidery, is manually done by a skilled
embroiderer using an embroidery machine.
This is the standard type of embroidery that is used in
executing classic and modern designs in jusi fabric.
12. Pechera
Pechera, derived from the
Spanish word that means
"shirt front," is a statement
of plain simplicity with
restrained embellishments.
A typical pechera design
has patterns on the front
panel usually in a U, I, or V
form with or without
scattered embellishments
on the sleeve and back
panels.
13. Pechera with Side Patterns
This is pechera with a
stripe pattern on both
sides of the main
pattern. This style is
also referred to as
front raya.
14. Raya
Raya, derived from
the Spanish word that
means "stripe," is a
midway between
extremes with moderate
embellishments. The
patterns in stripes are
extended from the front
to the sleeves and across
the back panel.
15. Batok
Batok, derived from the
Filipino word that means
"nape," is also a midway
between extremes with
moderate
embellishments.
The patterns are extended
to the shoulders, upper
back, and upper sleeves.
16. Batok with Sleeve Patterns
This is a variation of batok style
in which the patterns are
extended to the sleeves.
20. All Over Callado
Callado, a form of open
thread work done by hand, is
used to adorn the entirety of
either the front panel
only (Front All-Over
Calado) or all the panels -
front, back, and sleeves as
well as the collar, placket, and
cuffs (All-Over Calado) with
pechera, pechera with side
patterns, raya, batok, or
special as the base design.