This document provides information about different aspects of dressmaking, including various blouse designs, fabrics suited for ladies blouses, types of necklines, and types of sleeves. It discusses cotton, poplin, twill, linen, flannel, and gabardine as suitable fabrics. It describes straight, sweetheart, v-neck, scoop, asymmetrical, bateau, and other neckline styles. It also covers set-in, puff, kimono, raglan, and dolman sleeve types. The document is intended to teach about drafting patterns and cutting fabrics for ladies blouses.

1. DRESSMAKING
MENCHU FONTANILLA
SST II

2. Motivation
◦ Motivation Group yourselves into 2 , name your group
opposite to your gender .
◦ Make a paper doll out of any available materials that you have ,either from your
bag or anything inside this room.
◦ Make your paper doll fashionable like barbie doll./you can put designer clothes
◦ You can use colored pencil , crayon or any colorful materials.You can use colored
pencil , crayon or any colorful materials.
◦ Finish in 2 mins..

3. LO 1. Draft and cut
pattern for ladies blouse
1.1. Plan garment design
1.2. Take client’s body
measurement
1.3. Draft basic/ block
pattern
LEARNING COMPETENCIES

4. TOPIC
1. Designs of blouse
2. Types of fabrics suited for ladies
blouse
3. Types of necklines
4. Types of sleeves
4.1. Set-in
4.2. Puff
4.3. Kimono
4.4. Raglan
4.5. Dolman

5. Designs of Blouse

6. Activity:
Let us check your fashion in
terms of blouses.
On the next slide there are
different designs of blouses,
try to name it according to
your taste and knowledge.

7. 1. Off the
shoulder rucked
2. Orange ¾ sleeve
chiffon blouse
1.
2.

8. 3. Sleeve less
europian style
4. Colarless v-neck
blouse
3.
4.

9. 5. Blusa white lace
cotton blouse
6. Hot pink button
down shirt
5.
6.

10. 7. Black blouse sheer top
Spring casual silk
blouse loose
7.
8.

11. Ruffles shorts sleeve
chiffon polka dots
Red elegant blouse with
deep cleavage wrap
around with tented cut
9. 10.

12. Stand collar silk power
blouse
Elegant v neck chiffon
blouse long sleeve
11
12

13. 13. Silk satin office blouse 14. Kayle wrap blouse in mustard
15. Women tops long sleeve stand
neck work wear shirts

14. TYPES OF
FABRICS
SUITED
FOR LADIES
BLOUSE

15. ORIGIN OF FABRICS
SILK ,COTTON AND
LINEN

17. Important thing to remember
◦ The most important things to consider, other than the general
properties and qualities of the fabric that points to the use of
best yarns, are Thread count and ply and use of the best
weaving processes.
◦ You will hear thread count mentioned as numbers starting from
50 to even 1000s. Higher the thread count the softer, smoother
and silkier the fabric and of course more expensive.

18. ◦Regarding ply construction, there will be single
ply fabrics and two-ply fabrics. The two-ply
fabrics have two yarns spun into one to prevent
wear and tear problems like pilling. Fabrics with
more than 100 thread counts will usually have a
two-ply construction with two yarns twisted
together, which makes for a durable fabric

19. TYPES OF
FABRICS
SUITED
FOR LADIES
BLOUSE

20. Fine cotton
◦ Cotton fabrics like Egyptian, Sea Island, or American
Pima cotton – these are the best and most desirable
fabric for making shirts. They are very expensive as well.
But there is a reason for that.
◦ These cotton fabric are all made from the fibers of the
same plant with a cotton termed as extra long staple
length which means they can be made into fine and
strong yarns with which these fabrics are made of. They
are the softest with very high thread count and has a
two-ply construction.

21. Poplin
◦ Poplin, the most popular shirt fabric, is a plain
weave fabric which is smooth, cool and
breathable with a crisp feel. A good quality
poplin is a superfine tightly woven, high-
quality fabric. It is an overall favourite for
making dress shirts. The fabric is soft and
very smooth to the touch.
◦ One disadvantage with poplin as a shirt fabric
is that if you want a completely opaque fabric
this is not for you – it is thin and ever so
slightly transparent. But this makes it
lightweight which is an advantage.

22. ◦But then there is another disadvantage related to its
thinness – it wrinkles. But when it is freshly pressed
it is as crisp and elegant as you want a dress shirt
to be. So considering all the great points it has,
poplin is great for making shirts you can wear
anytime anywhere, especially formal shirts

23. Twill
◦ Twill is a fabric weave and the many fabrics which are
made in this weave like Herringbone and Denim and
Houndstooth and Cavalry are all very popular for making
shirts. Twill weave makes the fabrics very soft to the
touch but it is heavier than cotton, silk or poplin. It is a
very durable and strong fabric but at the same time it
hangs well on the body
◦
Good quality Twill is slightly shiny
(again because of the weave),
easy to iron and is resistant to
wrinkles.

24. Linen
◦ Nothing is more elegant than clothes made of
linen and it gets better with age and washings.
It is more loosely woven and sheer than cotton
and the most suitable fabric for wearing in hot
summer climates
◦ But it wrinkles a lot and is not the most drapey
– you must know it is slightly crisp – which of
course adds to its look of elegance. But if you
do not mind the disadvantage and you want a
fabric that is natural and that breathes, nothing
like linen. It is classy

25. Flannel
◦ Flannel is a favourite thick weave
heavy weight fabric for making winter
wear shirts. It can be 100% cotton or
a blend of cotton/wool or
cotton/cashmere . It is warm and
has a soft fuzzy feel.
◦ Flannel is also called Brushed cotton
when it has been brushed to remove
its lint and fibres. It is very soft to the
touch. The best quality of this shirting
material is that it is very suitable for
winter wear – as it has insulating
quality

26. Gabardine cotton
◦ Gabardine is a tough medium weight twill-weave fabric (with
smooth finish on the face and slightly raised diagonal ribs on
the back of the fabric) – it could be made of wool or cotton
fibers.
◦ It is the best fabric for making work wear and over coats and
suits because of its durable and long wearing qualities. It
also does not wrinkle easily and drapes well. You can make
strong, sturdy shirts with this fabric.
◦ One disadvantage is that you may find it is a little coarse and
heavy – but there are now variations of gabardine which are
soft and thinner and lighter

27. TYPES OF
NECKLINES

28. Straight
Across
Share
The straight-across neckline is exactly as stated:
entirely straight across the neck. It extends from one
shoulder and then across the breast to the other
shoulder. A straight across neckline may have
sleeves that drop from the shoulder downward. It
can also have a sleeveless look that extends solely
across the top of the garment. In many cases,
designers to provide nearly invisible straps that
drape across each shoulder. The purpose of the
straps is to hold up the dress without being obvious.
This is often seen in casual garments ready for a
day at the beach with friends.

29. Sweetheart Neckline
◦ Of all the many kinds of necklines, this is
one of the most popular. The design is
meant to be a heart that wraps about the
bust. This is a good choice for the well-
endowed woman as it draws attention to
the chest area. It’s also a good choice for
those who have a smaller bust and it can
help enhance what’s there.

30. Semi-Sweetheart

31. The V Neck The v neck is one neckline that
has drama and keeps it going.
This is a neckline in the shape of
a V. The sides of the garment
extend back across the
shoulders at each end. In
between the fabric drops down
rapidly, forming a plunging
shape that resembles the letter.
The v neck may be only form a
small v. In that case, the
neckline may just brush past the
neck and stay at the top of the
bust. What’s often seen are v
necklines that extend past this
area. That can help show off
cleavage and give off a carefree
vibe.

32. The Scoop
The scoop has been a staple of
fashion for many decades. It’s at
once modern and yet traditional. The
scoop begins at the shoulder with
two broad straps at each end. Then it
dips downwards. The neckline forms
a deep U shape that typically ends
right above the bust. With this
neckline, the back is typically nearly
all covered nearly to the person’s
collarbones. A scoop neckline is
commonly seen during the summer
when people are searching for more
casual styles that all for air
circulation.

33. Asymmetrical Style
Popular with designers, the asymmetrical
look is bold and modern. This kind of
neckline is characterized by a single strap
across the bust and shoulders. The strap
drapes over the bust and then trails over
one shoulder. The other shoulder may be
left bare.
It may also have another fabric that is see-
through such as tulle that is underneath the
first fabric or an additional line of fabric that
fits underneath the opposite shoulder. Both
shoulders are also left bare with this kind of
look. The theme may be carried through the
rest of the dress or blouse. Wedding
dresses frequently have a plume of fabric
that cascades down one side of the back.

34. Bateau-Boat
This is a regular
bateau-boat look
except for it flairs
outward a bit more.

35. Sexy Scoop
This has a
deeper drop and
tighter fit than a
regular scoop
neckline (see
above).
Spaghetti Strap
Cape
This is a regular spaghetti strap look
with a cape on the back.

36. Jewel Neckline
◦ A jewel neckline is a type of high neckline. It
extends past the bust to cover the entire area
from including the collarbones. The neckline
forms a circle at the top that mirrors the
shape of a necklace and gives the neckline
its name. Sometimes it may have short or
even long sleeves that cover the entire top
torso. However, more often the jewel neck is
one that is sleeveless. This brings the focus
of the line to the chin and the face rather than
the shoulders or the bust.

37. Halter Strap The halter strap borrows from several
different kinds of neckline styles. Like
the sweetheart neckline, it typically
drops on top of the bust and creates a
heart shape in the middle of the dress.
However, the halter strap differs in that
there are additional straps that are
holding up the shirt or the dress.
The halter straps may be barely visible
or they may be thick bands that are
obviously part of the overall design of
the item. The straps may be held at the
back of the neck and sewn into the
bodice of the dress. They can also come
to point at the back of the neck that
requires the wearer to tie them together
to hold up the top.

38. Spaghetti Strap
The spaghetti strap look is centered around
the use of two small, thin straps that hold
the top up. A spaghetti strap neckline can
be combined with various other types of
necklines. For example, the rest of the
neckline can have a sweetheart neckline or
spread across the torso in a straight across
look or be part of a square look that flairs
out at the waist.
Spaghetti straps are most frequently seen
during a summer look when the desired
result is casual and comfortable but also
has enough support to keep the top up with
ease.

39. Off Shoulder
The off the shoulder look is one
that bypasses the shoulders and
creates a straight line. Rather
than being held up by straps that
lie across each shoulder, the off
the shoulder look has a neckline
that drapes across an area just
beneath the shoulders. Two small
straps cup the sides of the upper
arms. The straps are usually
designed to blend in with the rest
of the blouse or dress and create
a totally uniform look.

40. High Neck
The high neckline is essentially a form of turtleneck that spans the
seasons from spring to fall. Instead of having long sleeves, the high
neck typically has only short sleeves or it may have no sleeves at all.
There’s a fitted collar that runs around the neck from back to drop
often with some texture to it.
The rest of the neckline may drape over the entire torso and may be
made from the same fabric. Another form of the high neck resembles
the illusion neckline. In this form of neckline, the piece that spans the
area from the bust may be made of a sheer fabric while the rest of
the neckline is composed of a thicker fabric.

41. Queen Anne
◦ Named after England’s Queen
Anne, this is a look often seen in
bridal gowns and other types of
formal dresses. The look has two
parts to it. There’s a deep
sweetheart neckline that’s usually
higher than a v neck but still has a
visible bend to it in the middle.
Two sleeves keep the neckline up
at both ends. They are typically
only small pieces of cloth rather
than full sleeves, making this one
version of a sleeveless dress. The
sleeves cover only a small part of
the top and come directly over the
shoulders.
Off-Shoulder Illusion

42. Deep
The deep cut
is a long
vertical V.
Square Neckline
Square necklines are designed to
form three sides of a square along
the neck and the shoulders. There’s
a line of fabric across the bust that
forms the base of the square. There
may be sleeves that are set in at the
shoulders to form two additional
straight lines. This kind of neckline
may also have straps at the shoulder
that are straight and keep the
elements in place so the dress
doesn’t slide down.

43. Halter Top
◦ The halter top typically covers the collarbones but
leaves the arms and shoulders totally bare. Fabric
encircles the neckline, drawing the eye upwards
from the bodice. Sometimes the neckline is left
plain with an expanse of fabric all the way down.
Sometimes it has decoration at the neck. This
kind of neckline is typically paired with a bare
back that may reach down and graze the
abdomen.

44. Illusion Neckline
◦ The illusion neckline is made up of a
combination of varied types of fabrics. The
goal is to give the illusion of a much higher
neckline. There’s a base made up of
thicker fabric that can’t be seen through
such as satin or jersey. The rest of the
neckline is made up of a see-through fabric
such as tulle or an embroidered lace.
◦ The see-through fabric extends from the
bust, covers the collarbones, and then hits
just below the neck. The contrasting fabric
forms a circle around the neck. It’s also
sometimes called the illusion yoke
neckline.

45. Bateau Flair
The bateau neckline is also known as a
boat neck. French in origin, it’s
designed to call to mind the streamlined
front of a boat and show off the
wearer’s face. This kind of neckline is
typically is a wide style that is designed
to run horizontally across the front from
one shoulder to the next. It follows the
line of the collarbone and may cover
them or end just underneath it. The
neckline is mirrored in the back with the
same shape. There’s usually a slight
bend in the middle of the neckline. This
lends a bit of giving that softens the
overall look.

46. Cowl Look
◦ This is an old fashioned look that is still popular
today. It’s usually seen during the winter months
as it provides an easy means of adding additional
warmth across the neck. The cowl look is made
up of fabric that adds several lines across the
collarbones. There’s a drop in the middle that
creates a casual feel as the fabric forms a
semicircle across the front of the neck. The back
typically has the same folds but they are higher
than in the front. They can often be pulled up to
serve as a scarf or even a small hood

47. Grecian Elegance
◦ Also known as the Greek neckline, the Grecian is
a style that is ideal for warm summer days and
nights. It begins with two pieces of fabric that
drape across the bust and form a small keyhole at
the waist. At the top is a sweetheart neckline point
that shows off the bust. The two pieces of fabric
meet above the collarbone. Here, they come
together with a collar that spans the neck and
keeps the entire look from sliding down. This is a
look that is frequently seen in evening gowns and
other formal dresses.

48. Sabrina Style
◦ The Sabrina was originally made famous in an
Audrey Hepburn movie of the same name.
Designer Edith Head won an Oscar for her
contribution to fashion and showed moviegoers a
new look. It is similar to the bateau in many ways.
However, the Sabrina is distinguished by certain
crucial elements.
◦ This neckline begins at the inner tips of the
wearer’s shoulders. From there, it curves down
about an inch and lies across the neck. There’s a
slight curve across the neck that slopes down in
the middle. This neckline is of equal depth across
both the front and back.

49. Quiz: Remember me!
◦Direction : On a piece of paper
write the answer and try to recall
the different types of necklines
you remembered .
◦Give at least 15 types.

50. SLEEVES
SLEEVE
VARIATIONS

51. ◦Sleeve (O. Eng. slieve, or slyf, a word allied to slip, cf.
Dutchsloof)isthepartofagarmentthatcoversthearm,
or through which thearmpassesor slips.Thepatternof
the sleeve is one of the characteristics of fashion in
dress, varying in every country and period. Various
survivalsof theearlyformsofsleevearestillfoundint
h
e
different types of academic or otherrobes.

52. ◦ Sleeves are such an important part of clothes as it is one of the
first thing you see in a garment. They should fit properly and be
comfortable to wear as well. Sleeve styles vary greatly with time
and fashion.
◦ The two main categories of sleeves are Set-in sleeves and one-
piece sleeves. Then there are Raglan sleeves that join the bodice
with a slightly curved seam. The set-in sleeve refers to those
sleeves which are joined onto the curved armscye. They join the
side seams of the bodice at the underarm. The one-piece sleeves
are part of the bodice; Kimono sleeves, Dolman/ Magyar sleeves,
and the batwing sleeves belong to this category.

53. LEG O MUTTON
Leg of mutton is
developed by
enlarging the
biceps and cap
area, tapering
the fullness
towards the
elbow level.

54. LANTERN
SLEEVE
Lantern sleeve
is a two section
sleeve that
flares out from
the cap and
hemline to a
style line within
the sleeve.

55. JULIET SLEEVE
◦ Along,tightsleevewithapuffatthe top,
inspired by fashions of the Italian
Renaissance and named after
Shakespeare's tragic heroine; popular
from the Empire period through the
1820s in fashion, again in the late
1960s under the influence of
Zeffirelli's film Romeo andJuliet

56. Kimono
A Japanese word meaning garment, used to mea
n a traditional long Japanese robe or a garment in
this style.
A long, wide-
sleeved Japanese robe fastened by a sash, or a
women’s dress in similar style.
Kimono sleeves slashinonewith theclothingina
wide sloping shape which is related to thaton
traditional kimono

57. ANGEL SLEEVE
◦A long extensive
sleeve which typically
hangs loose from the
shoulder portion

58. BATWING SLEEVE
◦Batwing sleeve is a
type of longsleeve
with a deep armhole
and tightening
towards the wrist.
Also known as a
“magyar” sleeves.

59. BELL SLEEVE
◦Bell sleeve is also a long
sleeve fitted from the
shoulder to the elbow
part and quietly flared
from elbow onward

60. Bishop Sleeve
is a large
sleeve which is
fulleratthe
bottom than
the topand
gathered at
the cuff portion
Bishop Sleeve

61. BUTTERFLYSLEEVE
Butterfly sleeves are originated on
Filipiniana;itisthenational costume
for women of the Philippines and
the dresses or formal blouses that
begin attheshoulder and get wider
towards the hem line of the sleeve
but typically in wont go more than 4- 5
inches

62. CAPSLEEVE
◦Capsleevesarevery
shortinlengthandit is
covering only the
shoulder part andnot
enlarging under armpit
level

63. DOLMAN SLEEVE
◦Dolman sleeves are a
typeofalengthysleeve
which is extremely
broad at the top and
slightatthewristarea.

64. HANGING SLEEVE
Asleeve that opens down the
side or front,orattheelbow;
the reasonis to allow the arm
to pass though…
This sleeve technique was
used in the period of 14th,15th
and 16th century.

65. PUFF SLEEVE
◦Puffed sleeves are short, which has
approximately¾ length or full sleeve
◦that is gathered at the top and
bottom;currentlythelargest partof
thistype sleevescanoften seen on
wedding occasion and children’s
clothing.

66. RAGLAN SLEEVE
◦ Raglan sleeves enlarged up totheneckline
portion a set
in sleeve that starts at the neck of the garment,
with a slanting seam from neckline to armhole.
◦ A sleeve that extends from the neckline of a gar
ment in one piece

67. PETALSLEEVE
This sleeve is joined at the top
two edges overlapping. There
will be no underarm seam for
this sleeve. The layered panels
that form this sleeve makes it
look like petals; they are
usually short or skimpy
sleeves

68. SET IN SLEEVE
refers to those sleeves which are
joined onto the curved armscye.
They join the side seams of the
bodice at the underarm.
A sleeve joined to the body of a garment
by a seam starting at the edge of the sho
ulder and continuing around the armhole
. Contrasted to a raglan sleeve

69. APPLICATION
◦After viewing the different examples of sleeves, blouses and
necklines, you are going to make your own blouse design
following the tips from the video clip ..

70. Rubrics for designers blouse
◦Neatness 20
◦Body proportion 20
◦Design of the blouse 30
◦Uniqueness of the design 30
100

72. Guess What!
Guess what type of blouse, sleeve or neckline is presented.
1. 2.
3.

73. 4. 5.
8.
6.
9.

74. 7. 8. 9.

75. 10.
11. 12.

76. 14.
15.
13.

77. Assignment
◦Make a project plan for your Blouse garment.
Same as what you did on your last project
which are sleeping garment and ladies skirt

78. Thank you