Vogue uk november_2016

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NOVEMBER 2016
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COVER LOOK
Regulars
42 EDITOR’S LETTER
50 VOGUE NOTICES
Behind the scenes of the issue
58 VOGUE.CO.UK
What’s online this month
153 CHECKLIST
One can’t have enough cashmere,
velvet or emeralds
249 STOCKISTS
BACK PAGE MIND’S EYE
Soﬁa Coppola is never without her
Cartier watch and a roll of Kodak ﬁlm
In Vogue
69 WHAT’S NEW
The people, places, ideas and
trends to watch now
77SECRET SERVICE
How Harrods brought its luxury ethos
right to Sarah Harris’s front door
Vogue Shops
87 WHAT TO BUY NOW
Vogue staffers try the new knitwear and
some gym-to-street styles for size
View
107 FLYING SOLO
Pixie Geldof’s album is an assured –
if haunting – debut, says Nell Frizzell
112 POWER PLANTS
The root-and-branch revival of
botanical design. By Hayley Maitland
115 CHANGE THE SUBJECT
New exhibitions are celebrating an
unsung hero of the art world – the
sitter. By Hermione Eyre
Spy
121 MILITARY ATTACHES
Chanel’s fashion manoeuvres
123 COVERSTORYSWAP SHOP
Even the classics can get a new-season
update, says Naomi Smart
132 EVERYONE’S WEARING…
… velvet – for day
139TRAVEL LOCAL AUTHORITIES
Postcards from Amsterdam,
Buenos Aires, Lagos and Tbilisi
149 REPORT
THE WORLD IS NOT ENOUGH
Exploring new frontiers – from
a sitting room in south London.
By Nicole Mowbray >36
“Fashion producer
Sylvia Farago
has so many crazy
stories to tell
and certainly
doesn’t shy away
from telling them”
NATURAL SELECTION,
PAGE 190
MIND’S EYE
Back page
31
insideVOGUE

Fashion and
features
160 HOUSE STYLE
Designers opt for a chef, a playwright,
a ballerina and a gallerist, among
others, to model this season’s looks.
Photographs by Paul Wetherell
180 COVERSTORY
“IT TOOK THREE HOURS OF HAIR
AND MAKE-UP TO GET ME
LOOKING THIS REAL!”
Emily Blunt talks to Marisa Meltzer
about starring in one of the most
anticipated ﬁlms of the year.
Photographs by Josh Olins
190 NATURAL SELECTION
The next wave of image-makers
is taking a rather spontaneous
approach to fashion photography,
discovers Lou Stoppard
200 COVERSTORY
CLOSET HARMONY
Seven professionals talk Fiona Golfar
through all aspects of their daily attire.
Photographed by Laura Coulson
206 TUNNEL VISION
Meet the women revolutionising
London’s transport system. Louise
Carpenter goes underground with
Crossrail. Photographs by Jason Bell
210A HEAD FOR HEIGHTS
Bobs, crops or tumbling curls… which
makes the cut among heads of industry
and state, asks Nicola Moulton
216THE LONG VIEW
Rose van Cutsem’s country house in
the Cotswolds embraces the future as
well as the past. By Violet Henderson.
Photographs by Kate Martin
222 COVERSTORY
ALTERED IMAGES
“Whatever else I wear, I always wear
a wheelchair…”Three women describe
how a life-changing event forced
them to reconsider their wardrobes.
Photographs by Benjamin McMahon
Beauty
231 COVERSTORY
THE NEW FACE OF BEAUTY: YOU
The industry is taking a long, hard
look at itself. By Nicola Moulton
239 GREEN PIECES
Join the green party
241 BATHROOM CONFIDENTIAL
Four women tell Lottie Winter about
their morning routines
244 THE RADIANT WAY
This season, it’s good to glow
246 TRUNK LINE
Louis Vuitton’s new scents are
well worth the detour, discovers
Nicola Moulton
“My ﬁrst piece of Burberry was a vintage
mac. I thought it was very cool”
Phoebe Collings-James, artist
HOUSE STYLE, PAGE 160
TUNNEL VISION
Page 206
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36
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JOSHOLINS;PAULWETHERELL
Keeping it real:
above, actress
Emily Blunt,
photographed
by Josh Olins
on page 180. Left:
designers choose
a subject to model
their pieces –
here, architectural
historian Shumi
Bose for Max
Mara – in “House
Style”, page 160
the idea for this Real Issue
came to me in the spring.
We were working on a
feature about the Netflix series
The Crown and were having
problems getting hold of the
clothes that we wanted to
photograph the actors in. Part of
the trouble was that because we
weren’t shooting a conventional
fashion story on models, we had
poor access to samples from the
fashion houses. This was not the
first time that I had heard from a
stylist, working on a story where
clothes would be shot on people
who were not models, that they
were having difficulty getting the
pieces they wanted.
Nobody knows better than
me the lustre that a great model
can bring to pictures. These
images play a huge part in
making us all love fashion and
wanting the clothes for
ourselves, and models are not
only beautiful but know how to
work the clothes and project for
photographers. The best models
are creative artists themselves,
their body being their raw
material. But that should not be
the only way fashion is seen.
Fashion should be something
that everybody – no matter their
age, size, creed, profession – should
be encouraged to enjoy. And it is just
as exciting, and certainly as
interesting, to see fashion worn by
people who have nothing to do with
the industry and whose daily lives
are far removed from it.
So… I thought that it would be
interesting for us to put together an
issue of the magazine where none of
the fashion is shot on models and
where we looked in various ways at
the subject of what we wear through
a more “real” filter.
One of my hobby horses is that it is
vital that a desire to look fashionable
and take great pleasure in clothes
should not be viewed as contradictory
to working in professions that
have nothing to do with fashion.
Scientists, doctors, academics,
teachers, politicians, accountants
and others should be able to be seen
to enjoy the vagaries of fashion and
style. And not be thought the more
frivolous for it. Now we have a prime
minister who clearly enjoys thinking
about how she dresses – and is not
afraid to wear jazzy shoes, bright
colours and clothes that draw
attention rather than deflect it – there
really is no excuse. >
The genuine
ARTICLE
42
Editor’sletter

Far left: journalist Melanie Reid in “Altered
Images”, page 222. Left: Vogue’s Devina
Sanghani models for Vogue Shops (page 87).
Below: the photographers who champion
a more spontaneous aesthetic, on page 190
But it’s not simple, and the
combination of a newspaper
commentariat – which is always keen
to leap critically on a woman in the
public eye who dresses even the
slightest bit adventurously – alongside
a professional culture that still
encourages a conventional conformity,
makes it hard for some women to dress
the way they would really like to. This
is not an environment that encourages
young women who love playing with
fashion and make-up to aspire to great
careers outside of the celebrity arena.
It’s changing, but change is slow.
It’s been a great issue to work on,
from “House Style” (page 160), where
we asked leading fashion houses to
nominate someone to model one of
their autumn looks, to the nuts and
bolts of what seven women wear from
dawn till bedtime (“Closet Harmony”,
page 200). Melanie Reid, who became
a tetraplegic six years ago in a horse-
riding accident and who writes a
wonderful weekly column for The
Times Magazine on that subject,
describes with wit and emotion what it
means not to be able to engage in her
appearance the way she previously did
(“Altered Images”, page 222), and on
page 231, Vogue’s beauty and health
director Nicola Moulton explores the
question of what is “real” anyway, when
it comes to the business of beauty.
Our cover star Emily Blunt is an
actress who has made a reputation for
herself portraying relatable women,
and this month sees her appear in
cinemas as the central character in
The Girl on the Train – the domestic
chiller that has dominated the
bestseller lists for more than a year. In
it she plays an Everywoman that none
of us would want to be – a character
far from any kind of idealised
Hollywood heroine. Following on
from its predecessor Gone Girl, this
massive literary success follows the
trend for putting deeply flawed
women at the core of a story, which
must say something (although I am
not sure what) about what we enjoy
reading at present. Emily gamely
agreed to the Vogue shoot with Josh
Olins (page 180) only a short time
after giving birth to her second
daughter, Violet.
By the time you read this, the BBC
documentary about British Vogue will
have been screened. Allowing cameras
to film inside the workings of the
magazine, with no control over what
the final programmes would show,
was a strange and somewhat nerve-
racking experience and, of course,
the magazine staff became television
personalities for a few hours. So who
better to include in this issue than
some of them modelling in our well-
priced Vogue Shops section (page
87)? I don’t think any of them have
plans to give up the jobs they are
extremely good at to start careers as
professional models, but it was a fun
job-swap for a morning. Tech-firm founder
Sarah Wood, one of
seven women
revealing 24 hours
in the life of
their wardrobe
(“Closet Harmony”,
page 200)
44
EDITOR’S letter
BENJAMINMcMAHON;LAURACOULSON;LAURENCEELLIS;COCOCAPITAN

T H E A R T O F F U S I O N
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ALBERTWATSON;ALAMY;4CORNERSIMAGES;GETTY;LAURACOULSON;LINASCHEYNIUS
Vogue tapped four writers native to far-flung
cities for this issue’s special travel guide (“Local
Authorities”, page 139), but which destinations
are our resident experts hoping to visit?
VOGUEnotices
BEFORE THE FALL
BY NOAH HAWLEY
When a private jet goes down
during a flight between Martha’s
Vineyard and New York, all but two
of its wealthy passengers die – but
was the fatal crash truly an accident?
THE CRIME WRITER
BY JILL DAWSON
A vividly imagined novel about
what would have happened if crime
writer Patricia Highsmith had
enacted her dark fantasies in real life
rather than on paper.
BY GASLIGHT BY STEVEN PRICE
American detective William
Pinkerton pursues criminal Edward
Shade through Victorian London’s
underworld in this work inspired
by Arthur Conan Doyle.
THE THRILL OF
THE CHASE
This issue’s cover star Emily Blunt
(page 180) takes a leading turn as
the unpredictable, unreliable Rachel
in the film adaptation of Paula
Hawkins’s bestselling novel The Girl
on the Train, in cinemas this month.
Already read the original
page-turner? Vogue picks three new
thrillers guaranteed to grip.
Benjamin McMahon (right) travelled
the length of Britain to photograph
three very different women for
“Altered Images”, on page 222.
“It’s always a pleasure to shoot people
whose job isn’t to be photographed,”
he says, reflecting on his work in this Real
Issue. “You can spend more time getting
to know someone. My approach is pretty
low-key. Usually me, a camera and a chat.”
Snap CHAT
MAD FOR IT
In “Natural Selection” (page 190), Lou Stoppard
(left), editor of Nick Knight’s multimedia fashion
website Show Studio, surveys the young
photographers championing a new aesthetic.
Stoppard is currently curating a photography
exhibition (to open next year at Liverpool’s Open
Eye Gallery) documenting the North’s influence
on fashion – “from obsessions with Joy Division
and Madchester bands to Peter Saville graphics”.
ALL ABOUT THIS MONTH’S ISSUE
50
Wish FLITS
FUNMI FETTO
“Cartagena in Colombia
with its pastel-coloured
walls and its grand
colonial mansions”
MARIANA RAPOPORT
“Kyoto, for the Golden Pavilion
and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove”
LIANA SATENSTEIN
“Odessa, to laze
around the Black
Sea with no
mobile-phone
service”
JANE SZITA
“Belgrade; the day-long train
journey to Montenegro’s
capital Podgorica is meant to
be spectacular”

the new N°5
CHANEL.COM # YOU KNOWME ANDYOU DONT

Whatever your preferred social-media channel, be sure to get the latest news from Vogue first by following us on Instagram,
Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Google+ and Youtube. Just search for BRITISH VOGUE and MISS VOGUE and join the club.
Make-up doesn’t have to be about artiﬁce.
This month, Vogue.co.uk’s beauty editor, Lisa
Niven, will be considering how to complement
rather than conceal, and proﬁling the products
that aim to enhance instead of exaggerate.
Face off
BEAUTY
STREETS
AHEAD
In honour of the
Real Issue, our
street-style
photographer will
be roaming the
capital to capture
what London’s
women are really
wearing. Discover
how the city’s most
stylish residents are
adopting the new
season’s key trends;
be inspired by the
workwear looks
that caught our
eye; and see how
autumn’s key
pieces are being
integrated into
real wardrobes.
Best-dressed lists typically
feature a mix of Hollywood
actresses, models and music
superstars – an inevitably
glamorous bunch whose
sartorial prowess may be
aspirational but often has little
relevance to everyday dressing.
This month, we’ll be looking
to the real working women
whose styles can also inspire.
Back to life,
back to reality
PEOPLE & PARTIES
Vogue senior fashion assistant Florence
Arnold (above) and fashion features
editor Ellie Pithers donned activewear for
this issue (page 87).They’ll be sharing
their shopping lists for the season in our
Vogue Shops section, alongside more
fashion-team style edits.
Good sports
SHOPS
BEST IN SHOW
As the month of
s/s ’17 shows comes
to an end, now is
the time to reflect
on the collections.
Consider our
new-season cheat
sheet the only
piece of fashion
homework you’ll
need for swotting
up on key trends
and sartorial
talking points that
will dominate
your wardrobe
next spring.
ALASDAIRMcLELLAN;LACHLANBAILEY
ALASTAIRNICOL;DARRENGERRISH
ERMANNOSCERVINOA/W’16
OSCARDELARENTAA/W’16
ANTONIOBERARDIA/W’16
58
GET AHEAD WITH WHAT’S HAPPENING ON VOGUE ONLINE
VOGUE.co.uk

ALEXANDRA SHULMAN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CREATIVE DIRECTOR JAIME PERLMAN
DEPUTY EDITOR EMILY SHEFFIELD MANAGING EDITOR FRANCES BENTLEY
FASHION DIRECTOR LUCINDA CHAMBERS
EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR SERENA HOOD
ACTING EXECUTIVE FASHION EDITOR LAURA INGHAM
SENIOR CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS KATE PHELAN, JANE HOW
FASHION EDITOR VERITY PARKER
FASHION BOOKINGS EDITOR ROSIE VOGEL-EADES
STYLE EDITOR NURA KHAN
ACTING SITTINGS EDITOR JULIA BRENARD
SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT FLORENCE ARNOLD
FASHION ASSISTANTS BEATRIZ DE COSSIO, KATIE FRANKLIN
FASHION BOOKINGS ASSISTANT KATIE LOWE
FASHION COORDINATOR POM OGILVY
JEWELLERY EDITOR CAROL WOOLTON
MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD
CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS
FRANCESCA BURNS, BAY GARNETT, KATE MOSS, CLARE RICHARDSON
FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR SARAH HARRIS
FASHION NEWS EDITOR JULIA HOBBS FASHION FEATURES EDITOR ELLIE PITHERS
SHOPPING EDITOR NAOMI SMART
BEAUTY & HEALTH DIRECTOR NICOLA MOULTON
DEPUTY BEAUTY & HEALTH EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH
ACTING DEPUTY BEAUTY & HEALTH EDITOR LOTTIE WINTER
ACTING BEAUTY ASSISTANT FLORA MACDONALD JOHNSTON
FEATURES EDITOR SUSIE RUSHTON
ACTING FEATURES EDITOR NICOLE MOWBRAY
EDITOR-AT-LARGE FIONA GOLFAR
COMMISSIONING EDITOR VIOLET HENDERSON
FEATURES ASSISTANT HAYLEY MAITLAND
ACTING ART DIRECTOR PHILIPPA WILLIAMS
ART EDITOR JANE HASSANALI
DESIGNER EILIDH WILLIAMSON
JUNIOR DESIGNER PHILIP JACKSON
PICTURE EDITOR MICHAEL TROW
ASSOCIATE PICTURE EDITOR CAI LUNN
SENIOR PICTURE RESEARCHER BROOKE MACE
ART COORDINATOR BEN EVANS
TABLET & MOBILE PRODUCER LEE WALLWORK
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR CLARE MURRAY
DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR HELEN BAIN
SENIOR SUB-EDITOR VICTORIA WILLAN
SUB-EDITORS STEPHEN PATIENCE, EMMA HUGHES
SPECIAL EVENTS EDITOR SACHA FORBES
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PARIS COORDINATOR SIGRID LARRIVOIRE
VOGUE.CO.UK
EDITOR LUCY HUTCHINGS
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CN DIGITAL HEAD OF PHOTO & PICTURE EDITOR GABY COVE
NEWS EDITORS LAUREN MILLIGAN, SCARLETT CONLON
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
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SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES EMAIL SYNDICATION@CONDENAST.CO.UK
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Vogue is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and
newspaper industry). We abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice (www.ipso.co.uk/editors-code-of-practice) and
are committed to upholding the highest standards of journalism. If you think that we have not met those standards
and want to make a complaint please see our Editorial Complaints Policy on the Contact Us page of our website
or contact us at complaints@condenast.co.uk or by post to Complaints, Editorial Business Department, The
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THE PEOPLE, PLACES, IDEAS
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NEW
What’s
Edited by JULIA HOBBS
Cancel the blow-dry: this
season it’s all about adding an
attitudinal hat, regardless of
the occasion.Take Gucci’s
dainty, netted style or the velvet
jockey’s cap, or maybe you’re
more about Vetements’ hard-line
baseball cap – the titfer now
enables you to triple your style
points in seconds.The queue
starts here for Miu Miu’s
cocktail bucket hat…
A head
for fashion
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69
inVOGUE
The power of game-
changing footwear is not
to be underestimated. Enter
the latest versions of Jimmy
Choo’s classic Jazz court,
which can be played two ways:
inconspicuously plain (to
ride out days in the office); or
customised with a pick’n’mix
of pop-on jewels for after dark.
“Think of it as the ultimate
in luxury DIY glamour,”
says creative director
Sandra Choi. Now, go
forth and decorate.
Custom
CHOOS
Forty per cent of a vegetable crop can be cast aside for
landﬁll or animal feed just because it doesn’t look
pretty. But no more: the hashtag #wonkyveg is now
trending on Twitter; in Leicestershire, boxes of
misshapen vegetables can be delivered to your door via
Wonkyvegboxes.co.uk; and keep an eye out for the
return of restaurant Tiny Leaf, which makes great food
exclusively from the mangled and the marred. VH
#
wonky
veg
JASONLLOYD-EVANS;PIXELATE.BIZ

IDEASPECIALISSUE:SAULBASSANDASSOCIATES(1979)PUBLISHEDBYSEIBUNDO
SHINKOSHAPUBLISHING;INDIGITAL;MAGNOLIAPICTURES;PIXELATE.BIZ
Winter
WHITE-OUT
IDEA
COTTON
T-SHIRT, £25
EDUN
DONNAKARANNEWYORK
CALVINKLEINCOLLECTION
DIOR
OFF-WHITE
CHANEL
EACHXOTHER
71
inVOGUE
Forget head-to-toe black – this season the
fashion pack are lightening up. Button up
Joseph’s stiffened denim jacket, zip into
Louis Vuitton’s zero-fuss boiler suit, pull
on Valentino’s chalky tights, or lace up the
palest prim booties, as spotted in the
Shrimps resort collection.
When tongue-in-cheek slogan tees
appeared on the catwalks and front
row at the couture collections, the
high-low mix that defines how we
dress now hit its apotheosis. Let
Gosha Rubchinskiy, Each x Other
or new label 6397 spell it out for
you, or create your own custom
slogan at the Soho Print Store. Just
don’t underestimate the importance
of typography. Do your homework
with the Saul Bass and Associates
archive book (below) – “It contains
the ultimate inspirational Seventies
American corporate branding,
that’s very now,” says rare-book
dealer David Owen of Idea
(purveyor of the cult “Winona”
emblazoned T-shirt).
Letters of
intent
WATCH: Werner Herzog
Over time filmmaker Werner
Herzog has turned his
attention to the Amazon, the
South Pole and the Sahara,
but it is the digital landscape
that serves as the destination
for his latest feature: Lo and
Behold, Reveries of the
Connected World (right; out
October 28). Herzog, who
doesn’t even carry a mobile
phone, explores robotics, AI
and the phenomenon of
trolls, capturing the fervour
and pride of innovators and
early developers. Think of this
as your immersive guide to
the world we now live in.

DEANNATEMPLETON
RALPH LAUREN HOME
PONYSKIN AND LEATHER
CUSHION, £995
Now that Marc Jacobs,
Adam Lippes and Moschino
have revisited zebra prints
for resort 2017, it’s time to
eschew the boudoir connotations
and embrace a ravey,
late-Eighties-inspired look.
Shop Kenzo’s acid-hued
collaboration with H&M
(in stores November 3), or
take the look home with
wild wallpaper prints.
STRIPE
Lucky
KNOW THIS FACE
Look out for the acting debut of
21-year-old Sasha Lane, who
plays a law-bending teenager in
American Honey (in cinemas from
October 14). Andrea Arnold, the
film’s British director, plucked
the spring-breaking Texan from
obscurity last year: “I went back to
university and finished my exams
early to begin filming.” The
wayward road movie, which also
stars Shia LaBeouf and Riley
Keough, channels Arnold’s own
experiences travelling across
America’s Midwest and picked up
the Jury Prize at this year’s
Cannes Film Festival. Authenticity
reigns: “I kept asking if I needed to
change something,” Lane says,
“but the answer was always ‘No.
We love how you are.’” The result
is a strikingly natural rendition that
lingers long after the credits roll.
Sasha Lane
KENZO & H&M
SILK TOP, £50
QUAIL CERAMICS
JUG, £25, AT LIBERTY
HOUSE OF
HACKNEY
WALLPAPER,
£145 A ROLL
GANNI
ADAMLIPPES
MARCJACOBS
TURNBULL
& THOMAS
OCCASIONAL
CHAIR, FROM £415
72
inVOGUE

REGENT STREET SLOANE SQUARE
BROMPTON CROSS MARYLEBONE HIGH STREET

©2016CHLOE.ALLRIGHTSRESERVED.
152 –153 SLOANE STREET - LONDON SWIX 9BX
chloe.com

HAIRANDMAKE-UP:AMYCONLEY.SARAHWEARSJACKET,CELINE.T-SHIRT,JOSEPH.JEANS,PAIGE.SHOES,GUCCI
A CURATED WARDROBE, A TOTAL HOME RENOVATION, A BANQUET FOR 5,000 OR FISH PIE
FOR TWO… NOTHING IS TOO MUCH (OR TOO LITTLE) FOR HARRODS, FINDS SARAH HARRIS
Secret SERVICE
i
t’s a funny feeling, standing in a
room filled with an expertly
curated selection of what someone
else thinks you might like to wear –
and it’s even odder when it’s so
accurate. This is the third stage of
Harrods Wardrobe Management,
which begins with an initial in-store
consultation on sartorial likes and
dislikes, followed by an at-home visit
of wardrobe rifling, to here – Harrods
personal shopping suite, an entire
room tailormade for you to shop from.
I’m not going to lie. When Harrods
invited me to become a client for a
week and try a selection of its services,
I had reservations about its Wardrobe
Management experience. I didn’t think
I needed it. Trust me, I thought,
my wardrobe doesn’t need managing
because I manage it. I’m in there filing,
editing and sorting on a fortnightly
basis. Do I need help when it comes to
shopping? Nope. I know what I want
to buy at the beginning of the season.
It transpires I was wrong – because
having a fresh eye to edit your wardrobe
is pretty revealing;for starters it revealed
that I have about 75 white shirts. OK,
no, not 75 – 50, although I’m reassured
by the Harrods team that, since no two
are the same and it’s part of my uniform,
it’s no bad thing. The process also
revealed that I, like most of the other
clients they visit at home, wear only 10
per cent of my wardrobe regularly.
I also discovered that I have a lot of
clothes with swing tags still attached –
not because they were mistake buys
(I don’t do mistake buys, I don’t mind
bragging) – but because I haven’t got
around to wearing them yet.
It’s far more enjoyable and much less
exhausting when you’re not the one
My wardrobe doesn’t
need managing, I
thought. I was wrong
pulling everything out, but sitting on
your bedroom chair saying yes or no
to everything. Literally everything, as
I ascertain, after being slightly taken
aback that I’m asked whether or not
I wish to keep my spring/summer ’16
Céline khaki jumpsuit – the very one
that I spent weeks tracking down, that
was finally located
and shipped to me
from Belgium. “Are
you kidding?” I think,
when Kate, Harrods’
stylist manager, holds
it up to me for affirmation. It wasn’t
being singled out; every item is pored
over,startingatoneendofmywardrobe
and finishing at the other. It takes one
hour to go through the white shirts
alone. Yes, it’s time-consuming, but
I could happily sit here and do this for
an entire afternoon. Kate has a good >
Personal
shopping
suite
Sarah Harris with the
clothes selected by
the personal stylists at
Harrods. Photographs:
Rick Morris Pushinsky
77
inVOGUE

RICKMORRISPUSHINSKY
technique. She doesn’t tell me what to
get rid of, but asks questions such as,
“Do you wear it?” and “Do you love it?”
She takes photographs of most items.
And so, in this personal shopping
suite is her edit of item updates and
wardrobe “gaps” (who knew I had
any?) presented with tea and coffee,
pastries, mini yoghurt pots and an
impressive fruit platter. There must be
close to 100 items of clothing, shoes
and bags hanging up in here, and I like
almost everything. Cleverly, there are
several variations on some items –
tailored tracksuit trousers, for example
– with minor differences in cut
and huge disparities on price,
from affordable to quite
astronomical. The “magic
mirror” films everything I
try on (I circle 360 degrees
so all angles are visible);
the film is later emailed
to me so I can make a
better-informed purchase
decision or forward it on
to friends for their opinion.
What I’m particularly desperate
to add to my wardrobe from this edit:
a black butter-soft leather coat by
The Row; the perfect pair of navy
wool drawstring tracksuit trousers by
Louis Vuitton (although I have lots
of black trousers, my wardrobe
consultation revealed I’m low on navy);
snaffle loafers by Gucci (surprisingly
missing from my wardrobe, and now
they’re on my feet I don’t know why);
a khaki suede trench and khaki
long-sleeved silk T-shirt by Céline (in
addition to all the Céline skate
shoes in grey felt, white leather, navy
ponyskin and black silk), and an ivory
NeopreneT-shirt by Joseph.Wardrobe
Management customers don’t even
need to carry their buys home; any
purchases are installed in their
wardrobes on smart black velvet
hangers,shouldthatbetheirpreference.
And the service doesn’t end there;
I’m also emailed a PDF lookbook of
expertly put together outfits, indicating
what to wear with what, combining
both new purchases and the clothes
already hanging in my wardrobe (hence
the photographs taken
during the at-home visit).
Harrods occupies 23
acres of selling space; it
has more than 300
departments, and goes as
deep underground as it is
high, which means it has
some seven floors hidden
away under ground level (it even has its
own water supply from wells bored
below), most of which customers will
never see. For example, the Harrods
vaults – a subterranean warren of
rentable safe-deposit boxes, which I’ve
heard people talk of but never actually
seen. I was beginning to think it was an
urban myth, like the story of the
Egyptian escalator programmed to
run at the same speed as the Nile.
(Who knows where that nugget
comes from; Sebastian, Harrods’
archivist – yes, Harrods has its own
in-house archivist – has heard of it,
too, but after searching the architect’s
notes he can’t find any evidence of it.)
Harrods does, however, lay claim to
debuting Britain’s first “moving
staircase” in 1898. But back to the safe
deposit. It exists.
Steeped in history, the solid-steel-
clad room dates back to 1896 and is
the least seen and oldest part of the
store (even outdating the current
terracotta façade). Crafted in a
Glasgow shipyard, it was bolted
together and lowered into the
Knightsbridge soil and, amazingly,
everything here remains original, from
the three-ton steel Victorian entrance
door to the mosaic floor, etched glass,
signage, and the still-working black
Bakelite telephone. It smells like
school. There are 3,000 safes here,
from small safeboxes (big enough
for precious jewellery, important
documents and gold bars worth up to
£1 million – don’t have a gold bar?
They’re available to buy at Harrods
Bank) to 10ft-high vaults,
large enough for, say, a
vintage motorbike. They
cost from £300 for a year
(and up to £10,500 for the
larger strong rooms); it
could be the chicest £300
you ever spend, just to
have that key on a key
ring. There’s also a personal password
to gain entry – only known by the safe-
deposit personnel, the client and
anyone they nominate to have access
to their safe. Several are available for
rent, although many are passed down
from one generation to the next.
Next up: Harrods Menu Creation.
With 147 on-site chefs, the Food
Halls here are unrivalled, and no
wonder, since Harrods originally
opened as a wholesale grocer and tea
merchants. But who needs to browse
stacked shelves when there’s a menu-
creation service ready to whip up
anything from dinner for two to a
gourmet banquet for 5,000, with
everything delivered by Harrods
refrigerated vans anywhere within the
M25 from Monday to Saturday? Word
has it that the Harrods fish pie is
legendary (so legendary that one client
recently flew two of them to her
holiday home in France). If requested it
comes not in a disposable tray but in a >
Above: choosing
a bespoke scent
in the Salon
de Parfums,
and, inset, the
finished product.
Below: Sarah’s
personalised
guide for
coordinating her
new wardrobe
Harrods
has seven
floors hidden
away under
ground level
Bespoke
fragrance
lab
Tailor
-made
looks
78
inVOGUE

newly purchased Le Creuset dish (in a
colour of the client’s choosing to match
her own set,of course,because Harrods
understands that a hostess might want
to pretend she baked it herself). When
it comes to this fish pie, she would
certainly want to lay claim to it.
Deep-filled with tiger prawns, cod and
haddock in a cream sauce laden with
dill and topped with Barber’s Cheddar
mashed potato, it was the best I’ve ever
had. Desserts are also next level – try
the frasier, which has a pistachio-
flavoured centre wrapped in lime ice-
cream with fresh strawberries on a
raspberry sponge bed, finished with
whipped cream and white chocolate
trellis on top. Meanwhile the
millefeuille comprising layers of crispy,
flaky caramelised all-butter pastry and
vanilla crème with piped Chantilly
cream is, I think, the best to be found
this side of the Channel.
Harrods sells more than 125 different
types of cheese, while its bakery
department boasts 190 varieties of
baked goods and cakes, but that might
be nothing in comparison to the one
billion fragrances (or thereabouts) sold
in the ground floor Beauty Halls. If –
astonishingly–noneenthrall,customers
are invited to concoct their very own at
Parisian perfume house Ex Nihilo,
situated in the sumptuous all-marble
enclaves of Harrods’ Sixth Floor
6,222sq ft Salon de Parfums, home to
the finest and rarest scents,and bespoke
services. After trying some 35 formulas
(interspersed with a pot of coffee beans
as a scent-resetting neutraliser) I finally
choose “sophisticated and seductive”
Fleur Narcotique, loaded with jasmine,
peony and orange blossom with base
notes of transparent wood, moss and
musk, and combine it with centifolia
rose which, I’m told, is handpicked in
Grasse at dawn. Within minutes,
the elements are measured, mixed and
then whizzed on a magnetic stirring
machine before being funnelled into
a bottle engraved with
my name. I’m advised to
wait three days to allow it
to settle before I spritz.
The worry with an
experience like this is that
you’ve made something
regrettably abhorrent, but
three days later I spray and
it’s a new favourite.
Home fragrance is a concept that I
hadn’t much considered before, but
how complicated could it be? Surely it
amounts to selecting a scent that
appeals and popping it in your home,
somewhere, anywhere? It turns out it’s
a science, and in this case one that’s
overseen by a doctor. Dr Vranjes
combines the very finest essential oils
and natural ingredients for his
collection at Harrods, concocted in
his adopted city of Florence. My
consultation with Astrid disclosed
that floral scents such as magnolia and
orchid work well in hallways and
living areas whereas, in the bathroom,
notes of white or green flowers are
best suited; in a study or office space,
however,one should opt for something
with spice because it awakens the
mind – but avoid this in the kitchen,
where something fruitier is
recommended, like grapefruit or lime.
Other home-fragrance rules? Those
reed diffuser sticks should be turned
upside-down once a day, and never
positioned in a corner or up against a
wall but ideally in the middle of a
room so the fragrant air can circulate.
Harrods home services extend
beyond fragrance; Harrods Interiors
team will redecorate your entire house,
taking on anything from a single room
to a total renovation, and not only
with the 600 brands under its roof
but from international and bespoke
suppliers outside the store, too.
Senior designer Olivia
sets to work on a proposal
for my living room.
After an initial at-
home consultation, where
I flick through a Pinterest-
style iPad presentation
(everything I like is duly
noted), measurements are
taken and a portfolio is put together of
ideas and colour schemes. I love the
Venetian polished plaster walls, which
I had considered when my house was
built and I couldn’t remember why it
didn’t happen; a bespoke pink marble
coffee table with brass legs; a Kelly
Wearstler rug – larger than my existing
one, which will, I’m told, make the
room look bigger, and a plush teal-
coloured velvet sofa. There are also
swatches here from Harrods’ Fabric
Library, home to everything from de
Gournay’s hand-painted wall coverings
to Hermès’s complete fabric collection.
I’dliketomoverightintotherendering.
Or, better still, just move into
Harrods. After all, it wouldn’t be the
first time someone has asked. Q
The rose
is, I’m told,
handpicked
in Grasse
at dawn
Above: the
Harrods
Interiors team’s
vision for
Sarah’s living
room. Below:
Sarah chooses
swatches
and samples
Interior
design
service
RICKMORRISPUSHINSKY
inVOGUE

LONDON BOUTIQUE - 15A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. +44 (0)207 499 22 25
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HIGH JEWELLERY RING SET WITH 16.05 CT BRILLIANT-CUT WHITE DIAMOND
SURROUNDED BY WHITE DIAMONDS AND BAGUETTE-CUT EMERALDS
UNIQUE PIECE

Ellie Pithers,
fashion features
editor, wears wool-
mix sweater, £225,
The Kooples. Silk
scarf, £85, Rockins.
Cropped corduroy
jeans, £90, Gant.
Leather courts, £99,
Carvela. Gold drop
earrings, £169.
Link bracelet, £149.
Both Another Feather,
at Couverture &
The Garbstore.
Gold-plated ring, £95,
Sophie Hulme. Hair:
Philippe Tholimet.
Make-up: Lucy Bridge.
Nails: Trish Lomax.
Set design: William
Farr. Fashion editor:
Julia Brenard
VOGUEshops
Photographs by
LAURENCE ELLIS
NOW
What
tobuy
Working
PURLS
The news in nine-to-five
knitwear? Clever cut-outs
and crafty weaves take the
lead for winter – as four
Vogue staffers attest
Recast an everyman Aran knit as a city staple
via a whisper-thin necktie and genteel courts
87

Decent exposure: a cold-shoulder
sweater in a slouchy cut lends
off-duty cool to a liquid-silk skirt
Alex Whiting, creative
producer, Condé Nast
Video, wears sweater
with cutaway shoulder,
£400, Tibi. Silk skirt,
£293, Mes Demoiselles.
Gold-plated pin, worn
as earring, £125, Uribe,
at Net-a-Porter.com.
Gold-plated ring,
on right hand, £125,
Sophie Hulme. Gold
bead ring, on left hand,
£389, Magdalena
Frackowiak Jewelry.
Small hoop earrings,
Alex’s own
89
VOGUEshopsLAURENCEELLIS

Devina Sanghani, PA
to Vogue’s publishing
director, wears
cashmere dress,
£275, Cocoa
Cashmere. Leather
heels, £370, Mango.
Bauble earring,
£265, JW Anderson.
Silver charm
bracelet, £150.
Gold-plated charm
bracelet, £225. Both
Links of London.
Ring, £4, H&M
How to wear a workaday sweater dress
now? Set sculptural jewellery against
an ankle-skimming length – and smile
90
VOGUEshops
LAURENCEELLIS

LAURENCEELLIS
Ripping yarn: a cream ribbed knit
comes into its own when teamed
with burgundy paper-bag trousers
Florence Arnold,
senior fashion
assistant, wears wool
sweater with cut-out
detail, £294, Frame, at
Net-a-Porter.com.
Belted wool trousers,
£250, By Malene
Birger. Hoop earrings,
£46, Diane von
Furstenberg. Pink
enamel and metal
ring, £95, Bex Rox.
Other ring,
Florence’s own
92
VOGUEshops

Available
in 8 shades.
Discover at
sisley-paris.co.uk
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FOUNDATION.
PRESENT THIS PAGE AT YOUR NEAREST SISLEY COUNTER TO
DISCOVER YOUR PERFECTED COMPLEXION.

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LONDON ST MORITZ NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS MIAMI OSAKA ASPREY.COM

Ellie wears bib
top, £350, Tibi,
at Shopbop.com.
Silk shirt, £55.
Brass and resin
bangle, £25. Both
Massimo Dutti.
Asymmetric
ribbed wool skirt,
£280, Marques
Almeida, at Net-
a-Porter.com.
Trainers, £110,
Asics, at Dover
Street Market.
Stud earring,
£19, Finery
London
Training day: reassuringly
technical sneakers are the perfect
update for classic blue stripes
The new gym-to-street
combinations have
the stamina – and style
– to go the distance
Body
DOUBLE
95

LAURENCEELLIS
Take a base layer top at its word:
contour panels and a streetwise
hood are a dynamic foundation for
an easy leather-and-denim combo
Alex wears
leather jacket,
£350, Mardou &
Dean. Seamless
hooded top, £95,
Adidas by Stella
McCartney.
Denim jeans,
£242, Redone, at
Modern Society.
Leather boots,
£300, Calvin
Klein Jeans.
Hoop earrings,
£15, Whistles
96
VOGUEshops

STYLE THE SEASON WI TH N EW PAN D O RA ROSE
The PANDORA Rose collection combines a unique blend of metals, blushing with a beautiful rose colour.
Explore the new Autumn collection, be inspired and share #TheLookOfYou

Devina wears ruched top,
£420, Ellery, at Browns.
Performance leggings,
£145, No Ka’Oi, at
Matchesfashion.com.
Leather boots, £450,
Belstaff & Liv Tyler.
Gold-plated cuff, £250,
Sophie Hulme
Let form-ﬁtting leggings in peppercorn
grey do the leg work – and make them
pop against a blinding white shirt
99

LAURENCEELLIS
Bound angle: recalibrate a sculpting
yoga bodysuit for evening with a
sharp A-line skirt – and unexpectedly
voguish snakeskin boots
Florence wears
body, £69, Pepper &
Mayne. Miniskirt,
£30, Mango. Leather
boots, £235, Axel
Arigato. Silver-plated
earrings, £95, Bex
Rox. Gold-plated
bracelet, integrated
with onyx ring, £470,
Paula Mendoza, at
Net-a-Porter.com.
Other rings,
Florence’s own.
For stockists, all
pages, see Vogue
Information
100
VOGUEshops

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l
ike Dylan Thomas’s gypsy wife in
Under Milk Wood, Pixie Geldof is
lolling gaudy in a doorway, a silk
petticoat skimming her brown knees, her
dark hair swept off her forehead. She
scowls at the sunshine, lighting a cigarette.
We’ve met in an old east London pub,
just a few streets away from where she lives
in Upper Clapton with her boyfriend George
Barnett, the drummer of indie rock outﬁt
These New Puritans.The fashion plate and
former frontwoman of haze-pop band
Violet has now recorded her own solo
album, I’m Yours. A collection of dreamy,
elegiac lullabies and love songs, it’s a
haunting, vulnerable offering, reminiscent
of Mazzy Star, Cocteau Twins and the
Jesus and Mary Chain. Geldof’s voice
takes centre stage in a wash of guitars
and sparkling percussion. Recorded in Los
Angeles with producerTony Hoffer,known
for his work with Beck, Air and Turin >
Pixie Geldof’s debut album
is a poised, thoughtful
meditation on love, loss and
grief. Nell Frizzell meets her
Flying
SOLO
Music may be
in her blood, but
Pixie Geldof has
forged her own
artistic identity.
Photographed by
Retts Wood in the
Clapton Hart, E5.
Sittings editor:
Beatriz de Cossio
HAIR:KARINBIGLER.MAKE-UP:ANITAKEELING.PIXIEWEARSDRESS,MIUMIU
107
VOGUEview

Brakes, it has that open, hot-earth,
prairie quality of California. “I
absolutely adore LA,” says Geldof.
“I started going there to write
when I was 19, and I love to drive
around the area listening to music.
I have a country playlist; people
like Kris Kristofferson,Patsy Cline
and Gram Parsons. And I listen to
Harry Potter audiobooks.”
This mix of the musical and the
childlike seems typical of Geldof
who, at just 25, still has a youthful
vulnerability, along with the wit,
sensuality, insight and gravelly
laugh of someone much older.
Because, of course, she has seen a
lot. In one of her tracks, “Twin
Thing”, she sings to a lost sibling
over a soaring guitar, “hoping it’s
not forever”. It’s hard not to think
of her older sister Peaches, whose
drug-related death in 2014 was
a terrible echo of that of their
mother, Paula Yates, who died
from a heroin overdose when
Pixie was 10 years old.
“I genuinely didn’t think I would
ever write anything about grief,” she
says, leaning back on the pub bench.
“Then I figured out it was happening
halfway through the song I was working
on,and I’m glad I did it,in a way.What
grief comes from is the most enormous
thing – it’s wild, uncontrollable.” Has
it changed the way she navigates the
world? “More than ever before I have
a desire for connection with something
bigger. I went swimming with sharks.
There was this giant in front of me and
yet it was so calm. My fear of the ocean
and depth has gone completely.”
For Geldof to release an album is
rather like a Clinton running for
president – it’s in her blood, having
grown up in a house full of guitars and
gone to gigs with her parents as soon as
she could walk.And there is an element
of the homespun in the way I’m Yours
was written. The song “Woman Go
Wild” “happened on the piano with
my mate Friars, and the title track was
written with my friend Bruno in his
kitchen,” says Geldof, playing with her
cigarette case. “We recorded the demo
on a little microphone,and that’s almost
exactly what it sounds like on the
record.” While melodies come quickly,
Geldof’s lyrics are often built up,
slowly, from diary scribblings or not-
quite-complete thoughts. “There have
been songs that I’ve only figured out
years down the line,” she says quietly.
There must be a certain pressure
that comes with both your boyfriend
and father being musicians. Does she
ever ask for their opinion? “There’s
no stopping Dad,” she laughs. “But he
writes songs, so he understands that
they’re how you perceive things. Even
if you listen to the same sort of music
as one another, you’re not necessarily
going to write the same sort of music.”
Geldof and Barnett have been a
couple for six years. The instant they
met, they were “together”, she says.
“It was immediate and good and
it’s just stayed like that. I love that
Townes Van Zandt song that goes
‘Close your eyes, I’ll be here in the
morning.’ It’s like someone singing
you to sleep with the most wonderful
promise; about peace of mind in a
relationship. It feels like that.” While
she admits she’s “obsessed” with kids,
she is, she says firmly, only 25.
Geldof scoops her chihuahua into a
neck-nuzzling kiss and downs her tea.
As she picks up her bag, I spot a tattoo
on her forearm. It’s a quote from
Philip Larkin’s “An Arundel Tomb”:
“What will survive of us is love.” Q
“I’m Yours” is released on November 4
“I genuinely didn’t think I would
ever write anything about grief”
Geldof has
a youthful
vulnerability,
along with the
insight of someone
much older
GUTTERCREDIT
“I enjoy being ostentatious and flamboyant and rhetorical and vulgar,” Angela Carter told Vogue
in an interview in 1982. “One owes it to oneself and the world.” A contributor to the magazine for
more than 25 years, she wrote on a range of subjects, from weddings (“They tell me that marriage,
like corsets, is coming back”) to Sixties versus Seventies fashion (“Slowly, woman metamorphoses
from a hairy, Afghan flower into something more like a Doric column”). In The Invention of Angela
Carter (Chatto Windus, £25), her first authorised biography, Edmund Gordon traces her
extraordinary life. His research included visiting the places that shaped her, from Rhode Island,
where she spent a lonely year at Brown University, to the Trans-Siberian Railway (“Read Gogol’s
Dead Souls as the best available guide book to Moscow,” she deadpanned in Vogue after her 1971
trip). The result is an intimate portrait of the woman behind the fantastical narratives. HM
RETTSWOOD;ANTHONYCRICKMAY.PIXIEWEARSDRESS,CHLOE.SHOES,TABITHASIMMONS.RING,ONRIGHTHAND,ANNINAVOGEL
109
VOGUEview
Angela Carter’s triumphs and tragedies leap off the page in a new biography
A life less ordinary

tahitian hibiscus, lilies from the Nile, Chinese
peonies… When 18th-century explorers returned
from overseas with Wardian cases of tropical
flowers, they started a craze for plant collecting.
The botany boom reached its peak in the 1800s –
when amateur taxonomists combed country hedgerows,
magnifying glasses in hand, displaying their findings in
meticulous illustrations, and the drawing rooms of
great Victorian houses were lined with terrariums of lush
ferns, orchids and mosses.
For its autumn pre-collection, Dolce Gabbana drew
on the foliage in Palermo Botanical Gardens, and a
revival bloomed. Depictions of plants also cropped up
throughouttheresortcollections:fromdressesdecorated
with 3D peonies and gardenias at Giambattista Valli
to a parka hand-embroidered with 17th-century
botanical designs by Creatures of the Wind. And it’s
not just our wardrobes that are blossoming. Look at
In Bloom, photographer Ngoc Minh Ngo’s latest book,
for inspiration on how to bring the natural world indoors
this autumn. Included within its leaves are exquisite
plaster casts of flowers (an 18th-century technique)
by Rachel Dein and painstakingly
detailed sculptures based onVictorian
etchings by Carmen Almon. Q
BOTANICAL MOTIFS ARE TAKING ROOT
THIS SEASON, SAYS HAYLEY MAITLAND
Power
PLANTS
LIEF MID-CENTURY-MODERN
CABINET, £8,700,
AT 1STDIBS.COM
THE VIRAGO BOOK OF WOMEN
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HOUSE OF
HACKNEY
PORCELAIN AND
BRASS TABLE
LAMP, £425, AND
LAMPSHADE, £130
CREATURES OF THE WIND
HAND-EMBROIDERED PARKA,
£6,000, AT FARFETCH.COM
RODARTE
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FROM £265
IN BLOOM,
BY NGOC
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(RIZZOLI,
£29.99)
BOTANIQUE
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TERRARIUM,
£330,
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BOUTIQUE.
COM
IN BLOOM (TOP) FEATURES
THE BOTANICAL SCULPTURES
OF CARMEN ALMON
FELICITY JONES
PRESSED-FLOWER
PORCELAIN VASE,
£165, AT PETERSHAM
NURSERIES
MILLER HARRIS
COEUR DE JARDIN
EAU DE PARFUM, £95
GUCCI
PRINTED
LEATHER BAG,
£1,510
BOOGEORGE.BACKGROUND:CHARLOTTEWALLPAPERINCATHERINECREAM,LIBERTY
112
VOGUEview

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ENDEAVOURLONDON/GETTY;CLARADRUMMOND
Traditionally,
all the
power has
been with
the artist
115
f
or a number of weeks in 1997,
Jerry Hall sat for Lucian Freud,
breastfeeding her son Gabriel,
until, due to illness, she missed a
couple of sittings. Piqued, Freud
replaced her head with that of his
studio assistant David Dawson.
Being painted by an artist can be a
merciless process. Occasionally, it can
confer fame, glory, even immortality
on the sitter. But traditionally, all
the power and adulation has been
with the artist, while models were
edged out of the history books –
even beyond respectability. This
autumn, a handful of new exhibitions,
from Picasso to Maggi Hambling, put
the spotlight on the people who gave
their time, strength and grace, and
whose personalities as well as their
bodies inspired extraordinary work.
Clara Drummond, the winner of
this year’s BP Portrait Award for her
oil of artist Kirsty Buchanan, Girl in a
Liberty Dress, is redeﬁning what she
calls the classic “Victorian idea of the
exploitative artist having dominion
over their muse.” Buchanan continues
to sit for Drummond, and their
relationship is both cerebral and equal.
“The conversations we have during
the sittings are very important to us,”
Above: Sylvette
David with Picasso
in 1954. He made
more than 60
likenesses of her
in just a few
months. Below:
Girl in a Liberty
Dress, Clara
Drummond’s BP
Portrait Award-
winning painting
of fellow artist
Kirsty Buchanan
THE SITTERS BEHIND EXTRAORDINARY
ARTWORKS ARE FINALLY TAKING
THEIR PLACE IN THE SPOTLIGHT.
HERMIONE EYRE GETS TO KNOW THEM
Change the
SUBJECT
she says (topics range from Mary
Queen of Scots to Icelandic moss).
Now, in a gently radical move, they
are publishing their handwritten
correspondence in facsimile form,
which will be featured in an exhibition
they have co-curated, Poetry Aldeburgh
at Aldeburgh’s Peter Pears Gallery
(November 4 to 6).
The two artists have worked
together for six years,
under apple trees in the
summer, and for a time,
in the freezing former
studio of Eduardo
Paolozzi on Dovehouse
Street in Chelsea. Unlike
many sitters, Buchanan
doesn’t struggle with
silence or self-consciousness. “She
grew up on the Isle of Man,” says
Drummond, “and her attitude to life
is one of total independence of mind.
She has such a deep interior world
that when she sits for me she doesn’t
VOGUEview
get bored.” Money has never been
exchanged. “It would change the
dynamic. I do feel the element of
collaboration isn’t possible if you’re
paying because it’s a form of control.”
Winning the BP Portrait Award
came as “a complete shock” to
Drummond. “Because it’s a quiet
painting,butperhapstheaccumulation
of so many drawings and so many
hours gives it a patina.”
Even their likenesses are
transposed – the painting
resembles both of them
– and yet Buchanan
continually surprises
Drummond. “I have plans
for a painting in my head
– and then Kirsty arrives
and she’s wearing something much
more exciting than anything I could
have imagined,” says the artist.
Auguste Rodin used his models in
a more conventional way. Rarely were
their names included in his work, but

MUSEERODIN,PARIS,FRANCE;AGENCEPHOTOGRAPHIQUEDEMUSEERODIN/PAULINEHISBACQ;PRIVATECOLLECTION/THELUCIANFREUDARCHIVE/BRIDGEMANIMAGES
“The subject
chooses the
artist, not
the other
way around”
Above: Rodin’s
Dance Movement
A (circa 1911) is
thought to have
been inspired by
Alda Moreno,
above right, a
dancer. Below:
Large Interior,
Notting Hill (1998)
by Lucian Freud.
He replaced model
Jerry Hall’s head
with that of his
assistant David
Dawson after
she missed sittings
Alexandra Gerstein, curator of the
Courtauld Gallery’s Rodin Dance:
The Essence of Movement (October 20
to January 22) believes she can identify
oneAldaMorenobyher“unbelieveably
supple” physique. Gerstein has
discovered a photograph of her,
complete with trapeze. “Alda probably
appeared at the Folies Bergère,” she
says. “We know she posed for Rodin,
but then for a period of about three
years she was lost to him. We see his
friends writing to him saying they
think they have found her – and
then she re-enters his life and
he starts making these extraordinarily
dynamic sculptures.” We know little
more other than that she called him,
reverently in correspondence, “Dieu”,
and that when she died in the Sixties in
reduced circumstances, she was still in
possession of two sculptures by Rodin.
the attraction between painter
and model is as unpredictable as
falling in love. When a 21-year-
old Brigitte Bardot visited Picasso at
Vallauris in the South of France in
1956, no paintings ensued. Two years
earlier, a 19-year-old called Sylvette
David inspired more than 60 likenesses
during a period of a few months.
Shy and rather farouche, Sylvette
sat for Picasso regularly, posing
quietly, smoking or chewing a long
piece of grass. Until the age of eight,
she had run wild on the Ile du Levant
with her artist mother,
sibling and stepfamily. It was
bohemian to say the least –
clothes were infrequently
worn – which perhaps
equipped her well to sit
before the artist (although
she never posed for him
nude). The atmosphere
between Picasso and her was
“peaceful, inspired, and
meditative”, as she says in
her beguiling new memoir I Was
Sylvette (co-written with her daughter
Isabel Coulton; Endeavour London,
£25). She saw no hint of the Minotaur
Picasso. There was no seduction; only
understanding. He painted her
without a mouth, which she felt
referenced her silence. And when he
rendered her as a wrought-iron
bricolage sculpture, he added, as well
as her recognisable round handbag, a
key: “I was shut in myself and maybe
that’s why.”
As a farewell he invited her to take
any one of 28 portrait
paintings he had made of
her. “I chose the one that
looked the most like me…
I felt so funny walking out
into the street with a
painting of me by Picasso
tucked under my arm, it
didn’t feel real.” In 1958
she reluctantly parted with it for
£10,000. Sylvette has since
disappeared – as an adherent of
Subud, the Indonesian spiritual
movement, she renamed herself Lydia
– but her work with Picasso will be on
display at the National Portrait
Gallery’s major exhibition Picasso
Portraits (until February 5).
“The subject chooses the artist,
not the other way round,” Maggi
Hambling growls magnificently down
the telephone as she explains how she
came to draw, again and again,
Sebastian Horsley, the Soho artist,
writer and wit extraordinaire. “He
called me Mother; I called him my
wicked son. We met through Sarah
Lucas at the Colony Room, and we
took to one another like ducks to water.
He was like an exotic wild animal. He
was banned from entering America to
attend his own book launch,on grounds
of moral turpitude! Too Wildean.”
Although Horsley rarely went out
without his top hat and an armour of
immaculate tailoring, he agreed to sit
for her naked except for a borrowed
Hermès scarf. “Taking off his clothes
was against his dandy religion. I don’t
know that he’d have done it for
everyone,” she says. And
yet Hambling is forever
associated with Henrietta
Moraes, her lover and
model who was “100 times
more alive than anyone else
in the room at a party” and
“totally in command
wherever she was”. Moraes,
much like Horsley, was extremely self-
destructive. “Henrietta was diagnosed
diabetic, so she took up eating cream
cakes.That defiance was typical of her.”
In 1999, Moraes finally succumbed
to the effects of decades of substance
abuse, while Horsley died of a drug
overdose at the age of 47 in 2010.
Hambling’s life-sized charcoal portrait
of him is now on show for the first time
as part of Touch: Works on Paper by
Maggi Hambling at the British
Museum (until January 29). She thinks
that he would have “laughed loudly” to
have found himself in such hallowed
surroundings. Her own laughter dies.
“I miss him like hell.” Q
VOGUEview

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CONTACT:+44(0)2077209725
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VOGUEspy

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124
VOGUEspy

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A U T U M N / W I N T E R 2 0 1 6

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127
VOGUEspy

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A ﬂuttering hemline is today’s
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As seen in Milan
128
VOGUEspy

VOGUE PROMOTION
t
here are collaborations that are
great one-offs. Then there
are collaborations that deliver
pieces so integral to the wardrobe of
a real, fashion-forward yet practical
woman (who craves comfort and
compliments) that they leave you
wanting more. Christophe Lemaire
for Uniqlo is a case in point. Luckily
for us all, he is now bringing his
silhouette-skimming cuts, deliciously
feel-good textures and minimal
design sensibility to the label full-
time – as artistic director of the new
Uniqlo U collection.
News of Lemaire’s prior limited-
edition collections for the Japanese-
founded high-street store rippled
through the Vogue ofﬁces like the
party that everyone wants an invite
to. Now that Lemaire’s partnership
with Uniqlo is permanent, the retailer
is in a league of its own.
What does that translate to? Just
what the discerning shopper looks
for: avant-garde designs that stand
out at a high-fashion bash, but were
acquired for high-street prices.
More than that, Uniqlo U comes
with an easy-to-adopt philosophy –
that clothes can be comfortable, as
well as very, very cool.
The ﬁrst autumn/winter 2016
collection is a lesson in these values.
In an industrial palette of petrol blue
and steel grey with rich, rusty hues,
voluminous shapes are contrasted
with sleek A-lines, while tailoring
offers relaxed rather than rigid
structure. Shirting is easy and clean,
outer layers are enveloping and
snug, and knitwear is feather light
yet warm. Job done. Q
The new Uniqlo U collection is
available in-store from September 30.
Visit Uniqlo.com/UniqloU
With his skill for sought-after
simplicity, Christophe Lemaire is
about to reinvent your wardrobe
with his debut Uniqlo U line
Photographs by Yaniv Edry
Styling by Tamara Rothstein
Double
TAKE

Far left: soutien-collar
coat, £89.90. Light-down
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Cargo trousers, £29.90.
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Left: ribbed cashmere
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Hair: Yaniv Zada.
Make-up: Shirley Weiner.
Set designer: Kimberley
Harding. Model:
Suzi Leenaars

JASONLLOYD-EVANS;PIXELATE.BIZ
think dressed up for day. Decadent
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street-style look is a draped velvet dress
in decadent teal. But whether you opt for
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is a trend that dares to say: stroke me. NS
As seen
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Week,
a/w ’16
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VOGUEspy
132

JULIENCAPMEIL;SHUTTERSTOCK
AmsterdamWhat’s a Zeeuwse knop? Where to find the
best stroopwafels? Jane Szita has the answers
READ
Geert Mak’s Amsterdam
captures the soul of the place,
recounting dreamlike and nightmarish
true stories that live up to the city’s
reputation as the Venice of the North.
EAT
In the romantic location
of a Thirties conservatory
(left), surrounded by organic
gardens, De Kas chef Gert Jan
Hageman prepares delicious
vegetarian food (inset)
according to the daily harvest.
At the sleekly stunning Taiko
in the Conservatorium hotel,
chef Schilo van Coevorden
serves sophisticated east Asian
fusion dishes.
If it’s views
you’re after, try
Mr Porter, a
stylish rooftop
restaurant
with food
and clientele
to match.
VISIT
90 Years Ms Monroe at the Nieuwe Kerk,
one of Amsterdam’s most imaginative museum
venues. The exhibition explores her life and
legacy in the year of what would have been her
90th birthday, bringing together personal items,
photographs and ﬁlm clips. Until February 5
BUY
Add a touch of
Amsterdam style to
your own home and
pick up a piece of
Dutch design at the
Frozen Fountain –
perhaps Tinka Leene’s
cake tin in the shape of a
traditional “Zeeuwse knop”
(Zeeland button) brooch – or
something vintage from its
Frozen Classics section.
ONE MORE THING
The historic Lanskroon bakery
makes the city’s favourite
stroopwafel – the addictive
caramel biscuit.
LISTEN
Fading Lines by Amber Arcades
(aka Annelotte de Graaf, a
former human rights lawyer) is
dreamy, shimmering indiepop
with ethereal vocals – perfect
for floating along the canals.
TINKA
LEENE
CAKE TIN,
FROM £22,
AT THE
FROZEN
FOUNTAIN
THE BEST VIEW
From the Oude Kerk tower in the
Red Light District or, if you want a drink
with your view, the Sky Lounge at the
Doubletree Hotel. For a great canal
perspective, try the terrace at Café de
Jaren. The Eye, Amsterdam’s spectacular
film museum, has a marvellous waterfront
view from its café terrace (right).
STAY
The 45-year-old
Pulitzer hotel – spread
over 25 interlinked
golden-age canal
houses along
Prinsengracht – has
reopened, revealing
not only a cool new
look but some tranquil
inner gardens in one
of the city’s chicest
neighbourhoods.
Vogue’s real travel guide. By the
people who know these cities best
LOCAL
authorities
139
VOGUEtravel

W E L C O M E T O
M A P P I N W E B B
BY A P P O I N T M E N T
A service that brings you beautifully
crafted bespoke engagement rings,
created at our London workshop
by master jewellers with
decades of expertise.
mappinandwebb.com

FREUNDEVONFREUNDEN;SIMONROBERTS;LEILACRANSWICK;SHUTTERSTOCK;INDIGITAL
READ
Delve into the classics.
Try The Knight in the
Panther Skin by 12th-
century poet Rustaveli.
FASHION
Tbilisi may have sprung on to the fashion
radar courtesy of brothers Demna and Guram
Gvasalia of Vetements, but street-style here
is a little less casual. A tomboyish suit by local
designer Tamuna Ingorokva, accessorised with
embellished oxfords by Anouki, and a plexiglass-
knit handbag from 7II – the current Tbilisi
statement bag of choice – looks the part.
ANOUKI
STUDDED CANVAS
OXFORDS, £421
Liana Satenstein has
Georgia on her mind
HIDDEN TREASURE
In search of antiques?
Spend a weekend day
at Tbilisi’s Dry Bridge
market, where you can
barter for everything from
century-old silver Turkmen
cuffs to enamel pins from
the Soviet Union.
STAY
Rooms Hotel (above) is one of Georgia’s finest
boutique gems. With locations both in Tbilisi’s
atmospheric Vera district and the mountainous
region of Kazbegi, it has lush greenery, stellar dishes
and bohemian decor – all with a Caucasus flair.
LISTEN
Experience the
slow, cheeky tunes of
Mcvane Otaxi, the
hypnotic voice of
Nino Katamadze
(right) or the pop
beats of singer Salio.
TAMUNAINGOROKVA
Tbilisi
EXPLORE
Old Tbilisi is a fascinating part of the capital.
Aside from its churches and museums, take note of the
architecture – spectacular buildings and their latticework
balconies, which appear almost to teeter off ledges.
To unwind, stop by the sulphur baths and
take the mineral-packed waters.
EAT
Georgia is brimming with rich dishes and fresh
produce – you’ll never go hungry. Head to
Tsiskvili, which overlooks the Mtkvari river,
and order khachapuri, the traditional dish of cheese
and egg mixed into baked bread. Afterwards,
go to Café Linville (above) for a glass of wine. Le
Montrachet is a must, too: the neo-bistro’s menu
includes produce from the Caucasus mountains,
such as black truffles and baby dandelions.
141
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LOLAAKERSTOM;MICHAELTROW;
DJCUPPY;CAMERAPRESS;GETTY
EAT
The fashionable crowd dine at Nok by
Alara (an African fusion restaurant) or RSVP
on Victoria Island. For a laid-back brunch, it’s
Delis or Casper Gambini’s. Seeking an indigenous
menu? Head to Terra Kulture for jollof rice, fried
plantain and pepper soup. No trip to Lagos is
complete without a taste of its street food; University
of Suya is arguably the ultimate for suya, delicious
grilled meat seasoned with pepper. The gorgeous
rustic Art Café serves the best coffee in town.
READ
Online, immerse yourself
in Nataal, a new site
celebrating African fashion
and culture. Offline,
read And After Many Days
by Jowhor Ile – lauded
by writer Chimamanda
Ngozi Adichie.
WHAT TO BRING HOME
Brush up your haggling skills
and head to Jakande Market
for traditional wood carvings,
metal sculptures, paintings
and handmade jewellery.
FASHION
In Lagos, West Africa’s Big Apple,
it’s all about oleku: two clashing
ankara fabrics made into iro and
buba – a wrap skirt and blouse.
Choose your fabric at Ankara
Alley in Balogun market
and a local tailor at Iponri
market will do the rest.
Alternatively, wear pieces
by Lagos designer and
LVMH prize ﬁnalist Maki
Oh. Michelle Obama,
Lupita Nyong’o (right) and
Solange Knowles (far right)
are all devotees.
LISTEN
Everyone loves
Afrobeat star
Wizkid. Tiwa
Savage, Lil Kesh
and Temi Dollface
are also worth
adding to your
playlist.
COMING SOON
We can’t wait for the new Christian Louboutin concession to
open in Alara – a beautifully curated 3,200sq ft concept store with
a roof terrace and art gallery. International brands rub shoulders
with African talent: Balenciaga and Babatunde, Delpozo and
Duro Olowu. Find, too, exquisite homeware from artisans such
as Babacar Niang of Nulangee and Hamed Ouattara.
Nok restaurant,
part of the Alara
concept store
in Lagos
DANCE
“In Lagos, there is always a party,” says
DJ Cuppy (above), one of Nigeria’s hottest
DJs (she even played at the president’s
inauguration). Party central can be found at
Sip, Quilox and Club 57. The night only really
gets started from 11pm; expect to dance till six.
LagosFunmi Fetto gets to the core
of West Africa’s Big Apple
STAY
Uber-stylish Maison
Fahrenheit (left), on Victoria
Island, is hip right now. But
for understated chic and an
antidote to the bustling city,
stay at the George (above)
in the exclusive suburb of
Ikoyi, on Lagos Island.
142
VOGUEtravel

Working closely with gem
communities around the world
DIRECT SOURCE
We passionately cut natures
treasures into beautiful gems
A CUT ABOVE
Using traditional skills to create
breathtaking jewellery
HAND CRAFTING
Providing education in Africa
India, transforming 9,500 lives
A BRIGHTER FUTURE
F A K E N O T H I N G
I
n the beginning were the gemstones, and the gemstones became our
family’s world. Welcome to Gemporia, and our quest to restore genuine
gemstone jewellery as the most sought after of personal possessions.
encourage women around the world to be at one with nature - to fake nothing.
This issue we feature CSARITEÆ, the gemstone 10,000 times rarer than a
Diamond. Found only in the Anatolian mountains of Turkey, CSARITEÆ is a magical
spiritually naked when dressed without a gem of nature, prices start from just £99.
VISIT US IN HOUSE OF FRASER OR
AT GEMPORIA.COM

COLLECTIONMALBA,MUSEODEARTELATINOAMERICANO
DEBUENOSAIRES;SANDRADESAUTELS;SHUTTERSTOCK;GETTY
STAY
Home Hotel epitomises the relaxed, hip
vibe of Palermo Viejo’s neighbourhood. With
its vintage feel and a prime location just a short
walk from BA’s trendiest bars and restaurants, this
boutique hotel has a peaceful garden with a pool
and a bar for a quiet drink under the stars.
READ
Written by one of
the country’s best-known
authors and journalists, Tomás
Eloy Martínez, Santa Evita
is based on the fascinating
– and controversial – life of
Argentinian icon Eva Perón.THE KNOWLEDGE
Hidden behind a graffiti-covered
wall in the district of Palermo is Tegui,
Argentina’s best restaurant (and
68th in the world). It’s the brainchild
of Germán Martitegui. Try the wild
partridge with pumpkin and mandarin
purée and the cumin meringue with
green apple and fernet syrup.
LISTEN
Argentina has a thriving
young alternative indie
scene. Check out local
bands Francisca Los
Exploradores and
Las Ligas Menores.
FASHION
Designers Martín Boerr and Agustin Yarde
Buller are known for their streetwise
urban chic. Find their label at Tupa,
a hidden shop on Lafinur Street,
alongside hip local brands such
as Erdia, which is famed for its
stylish leather totes and handbags.
ART
The Malba Museum’s collection
includes Antonio Berni’s
Manifestación (1934, above) and
Frida Kahlo’s Self-portrait with
Monkey and Parrot (1942).
BOERRYARDEBULLER
Buenos Aires
VIEW
The lighthouse at the
top of the Palacio Barolo
office building in Monserrat
offers superb views of the
Congreso de la Nación
(the National House of
Representatives) and the
River Plate. When it was built
by architect Mario Palanti
in 1923, it was the tallest
structure in South America.
The city’s stately European façade belies
its Latin soul. By Mariana Rapoport
EAT
Run by chefs Pedro Peña
and Germán Sitz, La Carnicería
is a parilla (grill) offering
signature sharing plates such
as honey-glazed sweetbreads and grilled goat’s cheese
provoleta with peaches. Don’t leave without a gin and
tonic made with Príncipe de los Apóstoles, one of
the best gins in Argentina. Also try Casa Cavia, a chic
concept store that’s home to a plush restaurant (above
and inset) headed by chef Pablo Massey, and Peruvian
eatery La Mar, whose ceviche mixto is a variety of fresh
ﬁsh and seafood with tiger milk and rocoto.
144
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KENNETHWILLARDT/TRUNKARCHIVE;360DESIGN
seemingly miniature cars and office
blocks the size of Lego bricks zip by
hundreds of feet below. All I can hear
is the whistle of the wind in my ears.
If all this sounds unrealistic, that’s
because it is. Indeed, it’s rather a let-
down to find myself still perched in
my south London sitting room when I
leave the virtual-reality (VR) world. In
VR – the much-hyped, much-talked-
about and certainly much-invested-
in new storytelling format – the
impossible is seemingly made possible.
Mind-blowing and incredibly
lucrative (more on which later), if 2016
has had one big tech buzz-phrase, it’s
VR. The promise is great: simply by
strapping on a headset that looks not
dissimilar to a pair of skiing goggles,
viewers can be instantly transported to
another place or time. Want to be on
the front row at a fashion show? No
problem.Balenciaga’s a/w ’16 show (the
first masterminded by change-maker
Demna Gvasalia) was broadcast in
virtual reality, meaning anyone with a
headset could take a seat. Meanwhile,
both Raf Simons (in his final show
for Dior) and Hussein Chalayan have
released 360-degree videos of their
shows – and Dior has launched its own
VR headset, Dior Eyes. As Chalayan
told Dazed magazine earlier this year,
“I’m excited about VR because it gives
the viewer an experience removed from
both space and time.”
Whether the medium will
revolutionise the fashion industry in
the same way that online retail has
remains to be seen, but that’s certainly
the aim. As well as making luxury more
accessible than ever (how many people
have the opportunity to sit front row at
a Paris show without the aid of VR?),
it has cost-cutting potential. Designers
can use it to bring sketches to life,
providing an immersive 360-degree
look at pieces pre-production.
Virtual-reality development company
Trillenium is using the technology to
create a “virtual shop” for its backer
Asos, which will enable shoppers
to wander “stores” in
cyberspace. VR mirrors
– long talked about – are
coming to fruition, too.
The secret to all this
is the screen inside a VR
headset that plays videos
recorded panoramically.
These are made using a
FROM THE AFRICAN BUSH TO COPACABANA TO THE FRONT
ROW AT DIOR, WILL THE VIRTUAL EVER REPLACE THE
REALITY? NICOLE MOWBRAY DONS HER HEADSET TO EXPLORE
The world is not
ENOUGH
crouching low amid the sparse
vegetation of the African
bush, a trio of lion cubs
lollop towards me. Our eyes meet.
Branches crack. It’s hot, bright and
as the evening sun beats down, I spin
around to find myself completely
alone. Bathed in a golden light, the
cubs come within a few centimetres,
their already-giant paws crunching
through the long grass and off into
the distance.
Seconds later, the C-shaped curve
of Rio’s Copacabana reveals itself
from a rooftop swimming pool 16
floors up. It’s a cloudless day and
Sugarloaf Mountain is visible at the
mouth of Guanabara Bay far in the
distance. Then I’m in the middle of a
crowd of partygoers dancing the samba
in a favela, drinks raised aloft, before
riding a thermal, bird-like, high above
Ipanema beach on a paraglider, able
to gaze up, down and all around as
A Mini Eye virtual
reality camera in
action at this year’s
Academy Awards
149
VOGUEreport

ANDREWTHOMASHUANG;TRILLENIUM
special rig of cameras that film in
several different directions at the same
time. Each recording is then “stitched”
together by a computer to make a
spherical picture which, when viewed
through a headset, provides an
immersive experience, altering the
perspective of the video to mimic your
body’s movements.
“You have some of the biggest
companies in the world – Google and
Facebook – risking their reputations,
and their capital, to make virtual
reality the future medium for all of us,”
says Jason Farkas, vice president of
premium content video for CNN,
who spearheads the network’s rapidly
growing stream of immersive content,
including live VR videos from breaking
news events such as the Paris and
Brussels terrorist attacks. “The leaders
of those companies are willing to throw
a lot of money into the technology.”
i
ndeed they are, because virtual
reality has come a long way from its
computer-gaming roots. It’s now
seriously big business.Facebook bought
premium VR headset manufacturer
Oculus in 2014 for $2 billion and,
according to the website TechCrunch,
more than $1.2 billion was invested in
VR technology in the first three months
of 2016. Adweek quotes other research
predicting that more than 52 million
virtual-reality headsets will be sold in
America by 2020, and global search
queries on Google increased fourfold
over the past year. Last November, The
New York Times gave away one million
of Google’s “Cardboard” viewing
headsets to its subscribers, which could
be used alongside a smartphone and the
paper’s dedicated app to access special
VR stories.Similarly,the BBC screened
the Rio Olympics earlier this year in VR.
If things continue on this trajectory,
advocates claim immersive experiences
will become the default way we
consume everything from news to
films. Acclaimed actor and director Jon
Favreau has worked on VR projects
with Scarlett Johansson, Bill Murray
and Christopher Walken. And
Hollywood filmmaker Robert
Stromberg, who has won Academy
Awards for his work on Avatar and
Alice in Wonderland, is also the co-
founder of Los Angeles-based studio
the Virtual Reality Company, which
has Steven Spielberg as an adviser.
“VR is a completely new medium
that has the potential to change the
world,” says Stromberg. “As a viewer,
you can create a narrative story and
become either a part of that storyline
or observe in a way that you’ve never
been able to before… It’s like watching
a play. The viewer has the option to
choose where they want to look and
what they want to see.”
It’s making waves in culture, too.
The National Theatre has a virtual-
reality studio, and last year the
Barbican held a VR-based exhibition.
But it’s Björk who is trailblazing
the medium as an art form (her VR
exhibition is at Somerset House
until October 23). Long hailed as a
pioneer in music videos, she last year
released “Stonemilker”, a private
performance of a track from her
Vulnicura album. Shot on location
on a remote, windswept Icelandic
beach, the video is viewable in full
360-degree VR, providing a virtual
one-to-one recital.
“One of the strengths of virtual
reality is that it has a huge impact on
the viewer,” says Farkas. “I don’t think
anything can rival the intimacy and the
closeness you feel to a story when
you are viewing it in this way. The
memories you form of being in virtual
reality make a deeper, more permanent
and more emotional impact than with
other media.”
Alejandra Quesada, producer at
the Virtual Reality Company, believes
VR connects with women more
profoundly than with men. “VR
seems to heighten women’s senses,
their intuition,” she says. “Guys really
love VR, but there’s a certain sense of
wonderment I’ve seen in every woman
who’s experienced it.”
VR has revolutionised medicine,
with surgeons using it to visualise
operations – such as open-heart surgery
– before a patient goes into theatre.
“Cedars-Sinai hospital here in Los
Angeles is working a lot with VR, and
many hospitals are integrating it,”
says Quesada. “There’s research into
stroke recovery using the headsets to
aid physical therapy. It’s also been
shown to help people with depression,
anxiety, post-traumatic stress, phobias
and seasonal affective disorder.”
Robert Stromberg goes one step
further. “This will be how we will
socialise in the future,” he tells me
from LA. “This phone call wouldn’t
need to happen; we would both choose
a place and time, put our headsets on
and meet in a virtual space to talk.”
Yet it’s the potential for education
that Nate Mitchell, co-founder of
Oculus, says he is most excited about.
“Virtual field trips to museums are
already possible, but it will soon be
feasible for a class of kids to put on
headsets and visit the moon or the
Colosseum,” he says. “This is truly
hands-on learning.”
But could it put an end to plane
travel? Stromberg says that when
people start having meetings in VR, it
will be on the cards.“You will have that
option… It will not only potentially
save time, but can also give people the
chance to do things and experience
places they would never have thought
possible in their lifetime.” Q
“The memories you form of being
in virtual reality make a deeper
impact than with other media”
Top: Hussein
Chalayan’s a/w ’16
show was filmed in
360 degrees. Above:
Björk’s pioneering
“Stonemilker” video.
Left: Trillenium is
working with Asos
to create a “virtual
shop” accessible
by headset
150
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THERUGCOMPANY.COMThistlePewterbyVivienneWestwood

ASPINALOFLONDON.COM TEL: +44 (0) 1428 648180
TheDockeryCollection
TheDockerySnapBag-Small

Cashmere, rufﬂes and glittering heels – make luxe your watchword this winter.
Plus, seasonal skin-savers and the perfect weekend escape
Edited by JO HOLLEY
VOGUEchecklist
SAINT LAURENT
VELOURS WITH
TASSELS, £760,
YSL.COM
Swing
time
Get set, glow
As the weather turns colder,
skin can lose its lustre.
Restore radiance with these
four hero products
BARE
MINERALS
SKINLONGEVITY
VITAL POWER
INFUSION, £45,
BAREMINERALS.
CO.UK
SENSAI
WRINKLE
REPAIR
CREAM, £160,
AT HARRODS.
COM
DR SEBAGH
ROSE DE
VIE CREAM
CLEANSER,£32,
DRSEBAGH.COM
SWEEP STAKESConjure up a sense of occasion with ﬂoor-skimming
coats and boldly printed maxi dresses
MARC CAIN
WOOLLEN
COAT, £455,
MARC-CAIN.
COM
Meet your
new weekday
bag. These put
a fresh twist on
classic shapes.
The Outnet
has teamed up
with Jerome
Dreyfuss to create
a collection of
nine covetable
bags
JEROME DREYFUSS
LEATHER, £300,
THEOUTNET.COM
VALENTINO
NAVY
WOOL
COAT,
£2,880,
VALENTINO.
COM
EQUIPMENT
LONG FLORAL
DRESS, £610,
AT HARRODS.
COM
BASH
SILK DRESS,
£320,
BA-SH.COM
GLENLUCHFORD;PAULWETHERELL;JODYTODD;PIXELATE.BIZ
LONGCHAMP
LEATHER, £1,330,
LONGCHAMP.COM
SISLEY
BLACK ROSE
PRECIOUS
FACE OIL, £136,
SISLEY-PARIS.
CO.UK
153

Moncler’s new three-
floor flagship store
on Old Bond Street,
designed by Gilles
Boissier, will showcase
lines including Moncler
Gamme Bleu and
Gamme Rouge, as well
as the ranges for men,
women and children.
There’s
a new face
in town
BIRD’S EYE VIEW
Italian label Golden Goose puts an
urban spin on athletic footwear.
The art of inlay is demonstrated
perfectly in this brilliant diamond and
smoky-quartz ring by Boghossian.
Price on request, Bogh-art.com
Set in stone
Timeless and versatile, the Mary-
Janes to wear now feature velvet, tweed
and embellished block heels.
FRILL SEEKER
Embrace ruffles with this
super-soft cashmere jumper.
£325, Chintiandparker.com
OPEN
NOW
STUART WEITZMAN
VELVET, £328,
STUARTWEITZMAN.COM
KURT GEIGER TWEED,
£99, KURTGEIGER.COM
STRAP
HAPPY
Winter hair needs
extra care to keep it
looking lustrous. Tame
frazzled, stressed-
out locks with these
nourishing and
smoothing remedies.
Smooth
operator
KERASTASE
L’INCROYABLE
BLOWDRY
LOTION, £21,
KERASTASE.
CO.UK
AVEDA DAMAGE
REMEDY INTENSIVE
RESTRUCTURING
TREATMENT, £29.50,
AVEDA.CO.UK
RAHUA ELIXIR
DAILY HAIR
DROPS, £93,
RAHUA.COM
GOLDEN GOOSE VELVET SNEAKERS, £265,
GOLDENGOOSEDELUXEBRAND.COM
KATE SPADE
VELVET, £295,
KATESPADE.CO.UK
154
VOGUEchecklist
PATRICKDEMARCHELIER;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PAULBOWDEN

TWIN SISTERS
CECILIE AMALIE
THEKOOPLES.COM

GEMPORIA
EMERALD STACKING
RING IN ROSE-GOLD
VERMEIL, £41.99,
GEMPORIA.COM
MING JEWELLERY
EMERALD AND GOLD
CATERPILLAR
RING, £18,000,
MINGJEWELLERY.COM
MUZO LOOSE
EMERALDS, PRICE ON
REQUEST, MUZO.CO
ATELIER SWAROVSKI BY
ROSIE ASSOULIN
CRYSTAL EARRINGS, £249,
ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM
Calvin Klein’s
Cashmere Collection
is a 23-piece capsule
range that will form
the backbone
of your winter
wardrobe.
With ribbed
turtlenecks,
sweater dresses,
heavyweight
tunics and
long-line
cardigans
to choose
from, this is
understated,
wear-anywhere
luxury at its ﬁnest.
Calvinklein.com
WHERE TO STAY
The Cotton House Hotel
makes the perfect base for a long
weekend in Barcelona. Its restaurant
and cocktail bar open out on to a lush
terrace, left, and the rooms, above,
make elegant use of the building’s
original 19th-century features.
There’s a rooftop pool, too.
From about £210 a night.
Hotelcottonhouse.
com
Soft touch
The Rolex
Lady-Datejust
26 in steel and
18-carat yellow
gold is a true
investment piece.
Buy now, wear
forever. £5,350,
Rolex.com
AYA
EMERALD
AND GOLD
EARRINGS,
£1,380, AYA.
CO.UK
NEW
COLLECTION
CALVIN KLEIN
TUNIC, £1,310,
CALVINKLEIN.COM
Bring botanicals inside with House of Hackney’s palm-print
cushion, or try the Rug Company’s alphabet version.
£155, Houseofhackney.com; £110, Therugcompany.com
Frond memories
Stone fox
Play the green
goddess with these striking
statement pieces
CALVIN KLEIN
SKIRT, £690,
CALVINKLEIN.COM
BARCELONA CALLING
Time
keeper
156
VOGUEchecklist

THEKOOPLES.COM
TWIN SISTERS
MIRANDA ELEKTRA

Real women, real clothes, real life. Yes, fashion regularly invites us
to dream, it ignites ideas of glamour and fantasy – but isn’t it also simply
about clothes, and speciically the clothes we choose to wear?
Whether that equates to blue jeans, a T-shirt and a baseball jacket, a
tailored suit cut for the corporate world, say, or a taste for something a little
wilder, in this issue we replace models with a series of professional women
and explore our abiding relationship with what hangs in our wardrobes
vogue
Satin bomber
jacket, from £625,
from a selection,
Coach. Cotton
T-shirt, £70, T by
Alexander Wang.
Cropped jeans,
£232, AG, at
Harrods.
Gold alphabet
pendants, from
£130 each. Gold
chain, from £95. All
Helen Ficalora
EMILYBLUNT,PHOTOGRAPHEDBYJOSHOLINS.STYLIST:
CLARERICHARDSON.HAIR:DUFFY.MAKE-UP:TOMPECHEUX
theREALissue

style
HOUSE
AN ICE-CREAM AFICIONADO,
A CHARITY DIRECTOR,
A BALLERINA… DESIGNERS
NOMINATE CREATIVELY
MINDED WOMEN TO BE
PHOTOGRAPHED IN THIS
SEASON’S LOOKS
Photographs by Paul Wetherell. Styling by Verity Parker
160

Shumi Bose, architectural historian,
wears MAX MARA
“I don’t always trust myself
to be very elegant – I was a
tomboy as a kid and am still
learning how to be a woman
– so if I wear something
beautiful, I try to corrupt it
with some costume jewellery
from Calcutta, or a hairband
that my mum knitted. At the
moment, I live for batwings.”
Wool jumpsuit, £218, Max Mara.
Patent-leather and satin
sneakers, £575, Roger Vivier.
Throughout, hair: Neil Moodie.
Make-up: Niamh Quinn. Nails:
Pebbles Aikens. Set design:
Max Bellhouse. Digital artwork:
Tablet Retouch
161

Charlotte Ranson, ballerina, wears GIORGIO ARMANI
“Not only is Charlotte beautiful, she is also strong, passionate and determined. Like all great dancers, she knows
the meaning of hard work and commitment, as well as the physical challenges of constant training, while her
body seems to know no limits in expressing extraordinary, seemingly effortless harmony.” Giorgio Armani
Cotton/silk jacket, £1,950. Drawstring silk trousers, £830. Both Giorgio Armani. Sports bra, Charlotte’s own
162

Deniz Gamze Ergüven,
ﬁlm director, wears
CHANEL
“Chanel has accompanied me
and the actresses of Mustang,
which I directed, ever since the
early stages of the film’s life.
I think we share a common ideal
of women: free and irreverent.
A little touch of Chanel – whether
it’s a drop of perfume, a watch
or an accessory – makes me
feel completely dressed.”
Cotton T-shirt, £560. Tweed
skirt, £3,580. Sequined beret,
£600. All Chanel. Beauty note:
a subtle smoky eye adds an
intriguing sense of sophistication.
Try Chanel Les 4 Ombres
Multi-Effect Eyeshadow in
Mystic Eyes, £40, for an array
of iridescent and matt hues
163PAUL WETHERELL

Quentin Jones,
artist, wears GUCCI
“I don’t know if I am naturally
stylish. I am drawn to things that
are visually interesting, but ask
myself if I could see someone
whom I consider to be chic
wearing it. Often the answer is no.”
Wool sweater with lace
inserts, £2,200. Wool cardigan
with silk lining, £1,460. Pleated
wool kilt with sequined patch,
£1,840. Striped wool sweater,
tied at waist, £725. All Gucci
164 PAUL WETHERELL

Skye Gyngell, chef,
wears CHLOE
“One of the most memorable moments I have shared with Skye was watching her and the team beaver away in my
kitchen in Paris for an event for 150 people I was hosting. My three children were constantly under her feet, eagerly
waiting for a dip in the mixtures. It was like having your best friend around to help with dinner.” Clare Waight Keller
White embroidered silk blouse, from £475. Matching skirt, from £610. Tan leather sandals, from £515.
Rings, from £175 each. All Chloé
“My job dictates that I wear
a uniform every day: chef’s
trousers and a chef’s jacket.
To be honest, I really like that.
It’s a great equaliser, and I never
worry about what I look like. I’ve
always loved Chloé, and I have a
lot of the bags – my favourite is
a large, very glossy red one that
I named pappardelle al pomodoro
after the delicious Tuscan bread-
and-tomato soup. I find beauty
in imperfection – I love produce
that has character – and I think
it’s the same with people.”
165

Anh Duong, artist, wears
DOLCE GABBANA
“I’m 55, and at this stage of my life I’m
excited to be photographed and
representing women in their fifties. As a
little girl I used to dress up and create a
world where I felt everything was possible
and safe. Today, regardless of age, I’m still
doing it with fashion.”
“We have known Anh Duong since
forever because she walked for the first
time for our 1987/88 autumn/winter
show. She is a woman who never stops;
she’s passionate about cinema, art and
theatre. Right after this shoot she flew to
Naples for our Alta Moda show and we
danced together every night. She almost
seemed like a Mediterranean woman.”
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Lace pyjama jacket, £1,850. Matching
trousers, £1,400. Suede courts, from
a selection. All Dolce Gabbana
166 PAUL WETHERELL

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