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![She unveiled
her relationship
with Michael
Fassbender at the
Oscars. “It felt like
the right thing.
We wanted to sit
next to each other,
simple as that”
Navy and red wool
sweater, £585. White
poplin shirt, £495. Both
Alexander McQueen.
Crystal charm ring,
£320, Dior
Alicia bit her Oscar at
one point on the night.
“To check it wasn’t
made of chocolate”
makes me calm.” She acknowledges there’s
an element of escapism to this. Academy
Awards don’t win themselves and Vikander
campaigned as diligently as any other actor
to be recognised by her peers. “The last year
was pretty tough. Doing more interviews.
Events. Being public. I think that’s why
I like working. Being here [on set], waking
up to work, the same 60 people around you
every day on a shoot. I like that stillness.”
She’s hardly had a chance to think over
the night she won. She recalls what she can,
episodes that haven’t been lost to the day’s
nerves and adrenaline. Getting ready in her
hotel room with friends and family, everyone
in dressing gowns (“It felt like my wedding”).
The little orange robot from StarWars rolling
around the green room.Taking a big troop of
pals around the after-parties. Leaving her
mobile phone in an Uber cab before she’d
had a chance to reply to all the congratulatory
texts. Looking down at her Oscar, at one
point,and biting it.Biting it?“To check.That
it wasn’t made of chocolate or something.”
As her father says, she’s a stabil flicka:
Vikander was back at work almost
immediately.There were reshoots to be done
on the new Bourne movie, in which she
co-stars with Matt Damon, the fifth in the
hugely successful franchise, her first major
blockbuster. In the new instalment (Jason
Bourne, out this month), Vikander plays a
computer specialist – “I tell other people to
run,”she says – while Damon does his action
thing. Back in the Nineties, he won a career-
transforming Oscar himself, when he was
exactly Vikander’s age. “He told me what a
rush it was. I think his was the best advice.
He said, ‘Enjoy it.’”
She seems to be today – laughing a lot,
smiling a lot, getting tooted at on her bike in
caveman-appreciation by passing men in
their cars, and finding this a bit crude but at
the same time a bit funny, too. She used to
be kept awake at night before interviews,
she says, tortured and anxious. It can’t have
helped that interviewers often wrote her off
as guarded, even icy. (A headline on one of
her New YorkTimes interviews read: “There’s
no easy way to get inside Alicia Vikander’s
head”.) Some of this she attributes to a
problem of tone. “Being able to be dry in a
second language is almost the last thing you
learn,” she admits. Her English is excellent
now.There are a few endearing slips
MATTWEARSSHIRTMARGARETHOWELL.BRACES,DUNHILL
122 ALASDAIR McLELLAN
> 126](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/vogueukaugust2016-160723054543/85/Vogue-uk-august_2016-128-320.jpg)
![bars with children’s birth dates
spelt out in tiny diamonds. Others
bear phrases such as “Love you”,
“Empower”, “BFF”. Wishbones,
lapis lazuli, diamond evil eyes and
hearts made of turquoise, mother-of-
pearl and onyx are all signatures, too.
Jen is a woman’s woman. She
confesses she likes few things more
than drinking tequila, listening to
hip-hop and dancing with her
faithful “squad” of Hollywood
friends, including Kate Hudson,
Jennifer Aniston, Nicole Richie and
Courteney Cox. They all support
her wholeheartedly, acting as
unofficial ambassadors and wearing
her creations to premieres and
charity events.
I
t would be easy to imagine
that,with her connections,
Jen could spend her life
like this; attending A-list
functions with her movie-
star husband or holidaying
with friends on super-
yachts in St Barths (Instagram
records her partying with Karlie,
Dasha et al). Not so. “It’s important
for me to recognise my own privilege
and try to actively support those
who’ve not had my good fortune,”
she says. Indeed, she and her family
are deeply involved in her friend
Kelly Sawyer’s Baby2Baby charity,
which provides children from
low-income families with nappies,
clothing and other necessities.
After studying child psychology at
Syracuse University in New York
State, she remembers thinking she
could take a few months to just hang
out. “I was in my car and the phone
rang,” she recalls with a broad smile
on her face. “It was my dad. He said,
‘I’m going to be really clear.You have
two more weeks of vacation and
then you’ve got to start your life. You
can live with me rent-free, but I don’t
know how you’re going to drive a
car, because you’re not going to have
money for gas, and I don’t know how
many times your friends are going to
pay for your dinner,but I’m not giving
you money for food. You will not get
one cent from me.’ And then I knew
that, ‘OK, this is the real world,’ and
I had to start making money.”
Actress Kate Hudson grew up
near Meyer and went to school with
her in Malibu. She also recollects
the strong morals that shaped her
friend’s upbringing. “The Meyers
were the greatest family, and in
LA that’s saying a lot,” she tells me
breathlessly on the phone because,
it transpires, she is multi-tasking,
striding out on her elliptical trainer.
“Jen had real values. We both had
parents who were self-made, who
believed in hard work and so we
were raised to be worker bees.”
Before long, Jen began working
at Glamour magazine as beauty and
health editor, followed by stints
doing PR for Armani and Ralph
Lauren. But after falling in love with
Tobey in 2003 she began to wonder
what her true vocation might be,
and she recalls telling him that she
wanted to try to make jewellery.
“I always knew she was creative,
it tapped into her relationship with
her grandmother and I knew
she had it in her to do whatever
she wanted,” says Maguire, clearly
proud of his wife. “When she
asked if I thought she should ‘try’,
I quoted something Yoda said to
Luke Skywalker in Star Wars. ‘Do,
or do not,’ I said. ‘There is no try.’”
And so she did, and it paid off.
In 2006 a stylist took some of
Meyer’s trademark chic, unobtrusive
pieces to show Jennifer Aniston,
then filming The Break-Up. Aniston
selected a yellow-gold leaf pendant
and small leaf earrings to wear
on screen. It was her big break.
“That was it!” smiles Meyer, who
has subsequently become friends
with the actress. “I can’t even begin
to count how many of those leaves
I sold. It was extraordinary.”
“At the time of that movie I was
turning over a new leaf in my own
life,” Aniston tells me with a
knowing chuckle, “and that necklace
really meant something to me.
I think that’s the key to her designs,
they are all emotive in some way.”
Aniston also has nothing but
praise for Meyer the woman. “I love
the way she started working when
she was a teenager, and wasn’t one
of those Hollywood kids, wrapping
her car around a telegraph pole,”
she says. “I’m wearing two pieces of
hers right now that I never take off,
and one of them is my wedding
band. She made Justin’s [Theroux,
Aniston’s husband], too.”
Yet it is not easy for a brand to exist
on celebrity endorsements alone.
Certainly,manyhavefailed.Instagram
is a powerful tool for raising awareness
(Lady Gaga posted an image of
herself wearing a pair of Jen’s diamond
stick drops at an award ceremony the
day before we met) but the bottom
line requires a great product.
Jen’s is one of the most successful
fine-jewellery lines selling on Net-a-
Porter, where she’s been stocked
since 2012. In short, she turned
her good luck into good business.
Also in 2012, she was a runner-up
(alongside shoe designer Tabitha
Simmons) in the prestigious
CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize,
which saw her win a mentorship
from Diane von Furstenberg –
another designer who understands
only too well the demands of coming
from privilege and making a business
successful. Although the mentorship
was intended to last just a year, the
pair remain close.“She is delightful,”
Diane says. “She’s kind, fun, light,
very effective and makes what she
does appear effortless. I still mentor
her and we speak regularly. She meets
challenges with enormous strength.”
As well as her strength of
character, Meyer’s business savvy is
what has set her apart in a crowded
marketplace. While her female
friendships are incredibly important
to her, she has managed to cultivate
a sense that by wearing her product,
you become part of her crowd.
Daniella Vitali, senior executive
vice president of Barneys New York,
agrees. “We’ve been in business
together for over 10 years. Jennifer
Meyer was one of the first designers
to create jewellery around women
buying it for themselves,” she says.
“She understands that people don’t
need an occasion to buy jewellery…
it’s about expressing ourselves.”
It takes a focused person to juggle
a young family, a film-star husband
and a successful business, yet Jen
seems to do this effortlessly. Except
for going to the gym. I ask whether
she’ll be paying it a visit after the
chocolate pizza we just devoured for
dessert. “Naaah,” she hoots. “I’m not
so good about exercise!”
For which I thank God. Because
I was just beginning to think that
Jennifer Meyer was perfect.
“My dad said, ‘You will
not get one cent from me.’
And then I knew that, ‘OK,
this is the real world’”
PAMELA HANSON 153](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/vogueukaugust2016-160723054543/85/Vogue-uk-august_2016-159-320.jpg)
![purchases that arrive late or are the wrong
size – these are the kinds of issues that keep
him up at night. As he proudly pronounces,
after 18 million orders, Yoox now has 99.5
per cent promptness. (Its “back end” is
indeed impressive, as anyone who has been
to its super-high-tech warehouse in Bologna
knows. With its army of giant robots
programmed to sort and place items in big
black container-loads – Fornasetti plates
alongside cashmere sweaters, Yayoi Kusama
tea-towels alongside Marc by Marc Jacobs
bags – via some brilliantly random yet precise
algorithm that ensures no piece of stock
ever, ever gets misplaced, it’s a futuristic
nightmare – or wet dream, depending on
which way you look at it.) “People have this
image of Italians working little hours,
taking long lunches and being unreliable.
But that’s just not true. Take Alitalia. In my
experience there has never been one delay,
but does anyone know this? Us Italians, we
are the worst marketeers of ourselves…”
A
s anyone who is even
remotely connected to
the retail industry will
tell you, the merger
between Yoox and
Net-a-Porter, which
Marchetti had been
gunning for as far back as 2009, wasn’t
exactly born out of love. Well, not on Net-
a-Porter’s side, anyway, with its founding
shareholders incandescent about their
stakes being undervalued and Natalie
Massenet abruptly resigning just months
after Richemont, NAP’s Swiss-based
parent company, announced the deal.
Because she was such a massively popular
figure on both the fashion and social
circuits (the lavish, tequila-fuelled 50th
birthday party she threw herself in Positano
a couple of months before she resigned is
still being talked about as the event of the
century), and because she had been so
much the pulsing heart of the business
she’d launched, many found it hard to
understand what on earth Richemont was
doing. They still find it hard, in fact.
“Natalie Massenet started the fashion
e-commerce revolution – she built the
chocolate factory,”says one industry observer
who has known Massenet for years. “In that
respect she was like Steve Jobs. It’s widely
accepted that without Jobs’s vision Apple is
struggling to innovate, to believe in itself.
The same is happening at Net-a-Porter.
Marchetti hasn’t put the fire in anyone’s
belly. He’s just fine-tuning what she created.
“The big mistake investors make is
believing that they can do without the
creative visionary who lured them in the
first place,” he continues. “I wouldn’t be
surprised if in a couple of years they go
begging back to Massenet.”
Meanwhiletherearerumoursofdiscontent
among the staff. One employee at the
Westfield headquarters (who prefers to
remain anonymous) describes how tense the
atmosphere is under Marchetti, compared
with the rah-rah, sisterhoody vibe when
Massenet was at the helm. Another tells of
how a meditation expert had to be called in
to “diffuse the atmosphere”. But that image
of the ‘“man with big balls” taking “the little
lady’s start-up” to the next level, as a piece in
the Sunday Times read last October, doesn’t
square with everyone. “One of the gauges
I often use when I have visitors to my
studio in London is how they interact with
the people I work with as they walk around
the building,” says Paul Smith. “Whether
they speak to people in a kind way and say
hello or not. Federico absolutely did. I can
tell you, a lot of people don’t.”
“He’s definitely not your average business
guy with his eye on nothing but the bottom
line,” offers Holly Brubach, the former
fashion writer for The New Yorker who
advised on vintage collections and special
projects for Yoox in the mid-Noughties.
She recalls the Pac-Man children’s line that
the late Malcolm McLaren designed to
mark the company’s fifth anniversary.
“These scarves came in from the
manufacturers and they must have been 6ft
long – for kids who were 3ft tall. Most
CEOs would have hit the roof and cancelled
the project. But Federico took it in his stride
and gave them as Christmas presents to
adults. You know, a lot of corporate
executives have an inability to comprehend
creative types. They regard artists –
including the ones in their own companies
– as lazy, immature, undisciplined,
extravagant. That’s not the case with
Federico. He really admires creative people
and he understands them. He also has the
capacity to connect with people of all ages.”
“Look, I’m usually bored by people, but
I’m never bored by Federico,” says Luca A
Bigger Splash Guadagnino, who is about to
start filming a remake of the horror classic
Suspiria, and is a great friend of Marchetti’s.
“I would say we share some general
characteristics,” he adds. “We are both
fiercely independent, we have extraordinary
ambition, and we are very competitive.”
For his part, Marchetti has had to go on
a bit of a charm offensive since the merger,
staging roadshows at office headquarters
around the world from London to Shanghai
to Tokyo so staff can get to know what their
new boss is like as a person, and so forth.
But then at heart, he’s just an ordinary guy,
as anyone who follows him on Instagram
will know. Interspersed between snaps of
him hanging out with Naomi Campbell
and Philippe Starck and throwing shoes
out of Lapo Elkann’s boat in Venice, there
are pictures of his Easy Jet boarding pass
from Paris to Milan, him celebrating his
birthday with his childhood buddies from
Ravenna, him picking persimmons from a
tree and collecting them in a crumpled
Yoox carrier bag. A real uomo del popolo, in
other words, and not at all the corporate
raider who doesn’t need his staff to like
him, as a piece in the Financial Times
quoted him as saying last year.
“Ah, what I meant there was I don’t need
to be venerated like a king,”sighs Marchetti,
patiently. “We’re no longer in the 18th
century. Yes, I need respect, I need ethics;
I need fairness and hard work. And yes,
I need results. That is a different thing to
my staff not liking me. But I can be very
naive, sometimes, with journalists. This
is what my partner, Kerry [Olsen, the
Yorkshire-born journalist and mother of
his five-year-old daughter, Margherita],
tells me. She tells me I’m too romantic, that
I fall in love with people and then get
deluded. I guess I’m a little childish like
that. It’s why I am often let down.”
Whoever the real Federico Marchetti is,
he sure knows how to turn a profit, as the
latest YNAP figures prove. In 2015, the
company had combined sales of €1.7 billion
(half of which were on mobile phones), up
31 per cent on 2014. That same year there
were 2.5 million active customers compared
with 2.1 million;7.1 million orders compared
with 5.8 million. Under Marchetti’s aegis,
Prada, Moncler and Pomellato have signed
upwithNet-a-PorterandGucci’sAlessandro
Michele has designed the site its very own
capsule collection – the first of many designer
Marchetti with his
partner Kerry Olsen
at a dinner for Gucci’s
Alessandro Michele
160](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/vogueukaugust2016-160723054543/85/Vogue-uk-august_2016-166-320.jpg)
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Vogue uk august_2016
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- 36.
- 37. AliciaVikanderwearssequined dresswithleathershoulderstraps, £10,000,LouisVuitton.Getthe look:make-upbyChanel.Eyes: LeVolumeDeChanelMascara. Lips:RougeCocoShineinBoy.Face: LesBeigesHealthyGlowMulti-Colour. HairbyRedken:PillowProofBlow DryExpressPrimerTreatment Cream;BeachEnvyVolume WaveAid.Hair:Duffy.Make-up: LuciaPica.Nails:JennyLongworth. Production:RagiDholakia.Digital artwork:Output.Fashioneditor: KatePhelan.Photographer: AlasdairMcLellan Regulars 41 EDITOR’S LETTER 44VOGUE NOTICES Behind the scenes of the issue 46 VOGUE.CO.UK The best of our website 98 CHECKLIST Vogue’s summer essentials 188 STOCKISTS BACK PAGE MIND’S EYE Peter Dundas loves Led Zeppelin and chocolate sorbet In Vogue 59 WHAT’S NEW The people, places, ideas and trends to watch now 63 WHITE NOISE Autumn’s catwalks dazzled with a brilliant – and simple – new style trick, says Sarah Harris 67 TWO’S COMPANY The best friends who are turning to clothes design. By Ellie Pithers View 73 GO WITH THE FLOW William Morris and Mariano Fortuny are united in AS Byatt’s new book. She explains why to Violet Henderson 78 PAGE BREAK It’s summer: time for Vogue to compile its holiday reading list. Plus, the secret art of bookbinding COVER LOOK 81 THE CROSSING Remembering her forebears – who were themselves refugees – actress Romola Garai travels to Lesbos, a major transit point for fleeing Syrians Spy 87 COVERSTORY 15 WAYS TO FALL IN LOVE WITH THE NEW SEASON From cocktail suiting to chinos 92 MATCH OF THE DAY The new colour combinations SPOTLIGHT 95 COVERSTORY WRITTEN IN THE STARS Star signs for our times. By Richard Godwin 33 AUGUST 2016 >38 “Grace Coddington’s desert-island essential? Caviar” CROWD PLEASERS, PAGE 162 insideVOGUE WRITTEN IN THE STARS Page 95
- 38. THE NEW COMPLETECARE LIPSHINE CHANEL.COM
- 40. Features 118 COVERSTORY WHEN YOUWIN AN OSCAR AGED 27, WHAT NEXT? Actress Alicia Vikander goes for a bike ride with Tom Lamont. Photographs by Craig McDean 138 COVERSTORY ROYAL EXCHANGE Juliet Nicolson can’t get enough of The Crown, autumn’s most anticipated new drama series. Photographed by Jason Bell 148ETERNAL SUNSHINE Jennifer Meyer, Hollywood’s jeweller of choice, is delightfully down to earth, discovers Fiona Golfar. Photographs by Pamela Hanson 154 FIGHTING TALK When it comes to ambition, world flyweight champion Nicola Adams pulls no punches. On the eve of Rio, she talks to Emily Sheffield. Photographed by Matthew Brookes 158 PARCEL FORCE The real Federico Marchetti, CEO of Yoox Net-a-Porter, opens up to Christa D’Souza. Photographs by Pierpaolo Ferrari 162 CROWD PLEASERS Vogue’s 100th-birthday celebrations continued with its biggest festival ever and culminated in a spectacular party Fashion 102 NEW YORK’S FINEST The Lower East Side was a fitting showcase for an effervescent new season. Photographs by Angelo Pennetta 130 COVERSTORY EXCESS BAGGAGE Autumn’s accessories are crying out for extravagance. Photographed by Christian MacDonald Beauty COVERSTORY 175 THE STRATEGIC RETREAT For some women, a spa holiday means rather more than just shedding a few pounds, finds Nicola Moulton 183 SHE’S ECLECTIC From berry lips to rain bonnets, Lauren Murdoch-Smith found much to admire on the autumn catwalks 186 BACK IN THE SADDLE A new nose has joined the Hermès stable. Plus, anti-pollution skincare 38 insideVOGUE SUBSCRIBE TO Turntopage66for our fantastic subscription offer,plusfreegift “The last year was pretty tough. Being public. I think that’s why I like working. I like that stillness,” says Alicia Vikander WHEN YOU WIN AN OSCAR AGED 27, WHAT NEXT? PAGE 118 FIGHTING TALK Page 154 ROYAL EXCHANGE Page 138
- 41. London 30 Old BondStreet 020 77 58 80 60 Explore the Akris Boutique at www.akris.ch
- 42.
- 43. ANGELOPENNETTA;CHRISTIANMACDONALD;PIERPAOLOFERRARI 41 Editor’sletter there is morechatter currently surrounding fashion than at almost any other stage in my memory. Whether it’s about the musical chairs of leading designers and the hirings and firings in the major houses or the fashion-show calendar, the impact of digital or the debate about when clothes should be delivered to stores… the whole pattern of contemporary fashion is under the microscope.There are many questions and, so far, very few answers, but what is clear is that there is much to be examined. An underlying message that runs throughout all this is that, more than ever,luxuryfashionhastobesomething special and deserving of that label, whether that be in the originality of thought or the exceptional quality of the product. In a world where fast fashion follows so speedily on the heels of the catwalk, the differentiation between the two is vital to the survival of both.And as a magazine that defines itself as a kind of bridge between the fashion houses and the customer, the ability for us to take time to create the stories that are part of forging the desirability of the clothes on the runway is absolutely vital. In this issue we launch our coverage of the autumn collections, and fortunately the clothes that are being delivered in this industry maelstrom are vibrant and rich in ideas, as you will see in “New York’s Finest” (page 102) by photographer Angelo Pennetta and contributing fashion editor Francesca Burns. Often it is during times of shaking up the status quo that fresh ideas emerge and creativity gets a kickstart. Certainly there were some terrific collections, but also it would be great to see if some new smaller businesses start up, taking advantage of the mood of change. One business that is neither new nor small is Yoox Net-a-Porter, now run by Federico Marchetti,who is profiled this month by Christa D’Souza (“Parcel Force”, page 158). When Yoox merged with Net, Federico was portrayed as one of the predators of fashion but, as I think this interview makes clear, although he is certainly a determined and tough businessman he is also a figure of great humour and broader interests than the balance sheet. Above left: Angelo Pennetta offers a tantalising preview of the new season (page 102). Top right: “Excess Baggage” (page 130) showcases autumn accessories. Above right: Federico Marchetti of Yoox Net-a-Porter (page 158) Remake, REMODEL
- 46. AXELHASSLENBERG;MICHAELTROW;PIXELATE.BIZ ALL ABOUT THISMONTH’S ISSUE Alicia Vikander (left) and writer Tom Lamont spent an afternoon cycling in the South of France for their interview (page 118). At the actress’s suggestion, the pair went pedalling around the port of Toulon, where Vikander was shooting the thriller Submergence, due out in 2017. Lamont confirms the Oscar-winner to be just as ambitious on the road – and “very fast up hills”, too. Easy riders On the eve of the release of The Crown, a new Netflix series set in the years around the Queen’s accession to the throne, author Juliet Nicolson (above) reflects on our fascination with the monarchy (“Royal Exchange”, page 138). Her earliest memory of HM beats most: “My mother was sitting beside my bed in Great Ormond Street Hospital where, aged seven, I had just had my tonsils out. A nice boy called Charles was in the next-door room having had his appendix removed. Suddenly my mother fell to the floor in a low curtsey as my neighbour’s mother and grandmother walked past on their way to visit their prince. They had left their crowns in the car, which I thought was very disappointing.” Visiting hours 24-HOUR PARTY PEOPLE Vogue’s centenary gala dinner (page 168) took almost a year of meticulous planning for special events editor Sacha Forbes (above). A staffer since 2003, she’s worked on some of the magazine’s most legendary parties – one of which took place in a penthouse with a prized wooden floor that nearly saw its A-list guests shuffled in on spa slippers. “Last-minute changes on the night always happen,” says Sacha. “Knowing your guests well is the secret to a good party – and a good table plan, the one thing people will always get in a state about…” Ahead of the Rio Olympics, follow in the swift-footed steps of women’s boxing champion Nicola Adams, profiled in “Fighting Talk”, on page 154, and try moving your workout into the ring. Here she offers her tips for beginners: • Position: “If you’re left-handed, stand in the southpaw position (right hand and right foot forward); if you’re right-handed, stand in the orthodox position (left hand and foot forward).” • Kit: “Gloves that are comfortable and fit well and a pair of boxing boots. You only need headgear if you want to spar.” • Practice: At home, work on “squats, lunges, press-ups and sit-ups”. At the gym, Vogue suggests trying a one-two punch at boutique boxing studio Kobox (122 King’s Road, SW3), a pleasingly unintimidating spot for your first time in the ring. DUKES UP Christa D’Souza went to Milan to meet the man behind the biggest fashion merger of recent times, Yoox founder Federico Marchetti (“Parcel Force”, page 158).The Vogue contributing editor is also an author – earlier this year she published The Hot Topic, a Nora Ephron-ish romp through the menopause. PAUSE FOR THOUGHT 44 VOGUEnotices
- 47. paris new yorkaspen hong kong beijing jitrois.com london, 6f sloane street
- 48. Whatever your preferredsocial-media channel, be sure to get the latest news from Vogue first by following us on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, Google+ and Youtube. Just search for BRITISH VOGUE and MISS VOGUE and join the club. Wimbledon, the Tour de France, the Olympic Games in Brazil… If this season’s sporting calendar is motivating you to work out in different ways, we’ve tracked down the most stylish kit, while our weekly Friday Fitness Fix road-tests the new exercise trends to try. From far left: Alessandra Ambrosio; Rosie Huntington-Whiteley; Gigi Hadid; Jessica Alba A question of sport VOGUE SHOPS Make Vogue.co.uk your only bookmark for comprehensive coverage of the biannual couture shows in Paris (July 3-7): straight-from-the-catwalk collection photos; backstage dispatches on the emerging (and always spectacular) beauty trends; A-list guests taking notes for their next red-carpet appearance; and updates on the street-style looks that turned heads in the French capital. Capital couture FASHION SHOWS JOIN THE JET SET Don’t leave for your summer sojourn without visiting Vogue. co.uk/beauty. This month we’ll bring you all you need to know about holiday beauty: our sun-cream edit has the best new launches; get a glow before you go with our pick of the most effective fake tans; snap up the travel-sized buys essential for any hand luggage; and discover the products that will keep your hair protected from the effects of sun and sea. Planning a quick getaway? Vogue Weekends guides reveal the most exciting short-haul destinations and their hidden gems. Think restaurant recommendations that will have you eating like a local, off-the-beaten-track shopping spots and the best boutique boltholes. Special agents ARTS & LIFESTYLE Whether you’re the bride or a guest, read our definitive guide to summer nuptials to discover everything from affordable bridal gowns recommended by Vogue editors to the ultimate guest outfits. Marriage guidance PHYTO PHYTOPLAGE PROTECTIVE SUN OIL FOR HAIR, £16 EUGENEVERNIER;HENRYCLARKE;JASONLLOYD-EVANS; PAULBOWDEN;SPLASH;GETTY;WENN;XPOSURE 46 GET AHEAD WITH WHAT’S HAPPENING ON VOGUE ONLINE VOGUE.co.uk
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- 52. BA (Hons) FashionCommunication Two Year Degree Starting October 2016 Fashion Foundation Diploma Fashion Certificate Intensive Summer Course Miss Vogue Weekend Course One Week Courses in Styling, Journalism & Fashion Business Learn from the experts at London’s most exciting fashion college www.condenastcollege.co.uk Apply now! NEW! ALEXANDRA SHULMAN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF CREATIVE DIRECTOR JAIME PERLMAN DEPUTY EDITOR EMILY SHEFFIELD MANAGING EDITOR FRANCES BENTLEY FASHION DIRECTOR LUCINDA CHAMBERS EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR SERENA HOOD ACTING EXECUTIVE FASHION EDITOR LAURA INGHAM SENIOR CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS KATE PHELAN, JANE HOW FASHION BOOKINGS EDITOR ROSIE VOGEL-EADES STYLE EDITOR NURA KHAN ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR VERITY PARKER FASHION ASSISTANTS FLORENCE ARNOLD, BEATRIZ DE COSSIO, KATIE FRANKLIN FASHION BOOKINGS ASSISTANT KATIE LOWE JEWELLERY EDITOR CAROL WOOLTON MERCHANDISE EDITOR HELEN HIBBIRD CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS FRANCESCA BURNS, BAY GARNETT, KATE MOSS, CLARE RICHARDSON FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR SARAH HARRIS FASHION NEWS EDITOR JULIA HOBBS FASHION FEATURES EDITOR ELLIE PITHERS SHOPPING EDITOR NAOMI SMART BEAUTY & HEALTH DIRECTOR NICOLA MOULTON DEPUTY BEAUTY & HEALTH EDITOR LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH BEAUTY ASSISTANT LOTTIE WINTER FEATURES EDITOR SUSIE RUSHTON ACTING FEATURES EDITOR NICOLE MOWBRAY EDITOR-AT-LARGE FIONA GOLFAR COMMISSIONING EDITOR VIOLET HENDERSON FEATURES ASSISTANT LOUISA MCGILLICUDDY ART EDITOR JANE HASSANALI DESIGNER EILIDH WILLIAMSON JUNIOR DESIGNER PHILIP JACKSON PICTURE EDITOR MICHAEL TROW PICTURE RESEARCHER BROOKE MACE ART COORDINATOR BEN EVANS ASSOCIATE PRODUCER VENETIA VAN HOORN ALKEMA TABLET & MOBILE PRODUCER LEE WALLWORK CHIEF SUB-EDITOR CLARE MURRAY DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR HELEN BAIN SENIOR SUB-EDITOR VICTORIA WILLAN SUB-EDITORS STEPHEN PATIENCE, EMMA HUGHES SPECIAL EVENTS EDITOR SACHA FORBES PERSONAL ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR CHARLOTTE PEARSON EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ELIZABETH WHITE PARIS COORDINATOR SIGRID LARRIVOIRE VOGUE.CO.UK EDITOR LUCY HUTCHINGS ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DIRECTOR EMILY SHEFFIELD CN DIGITAL HEAD OF PHOTO & PICTURE EDITOR GABY COVE NEWS EDITORS LAUREN MILLIGAN, SCARLETT CONLON BEAUTY EDITOR LISA NIVEN ENGAGEMENT MANAGER RACHEL EDWARDS JUNIOR DIGITAL EDITOR KATIE BERRINGTON MISS VOGUE ASSISTANT NAOMI PIKE CONTRIBUTING EDITORS LISA ARMSTRONG, CALGARY AVANSINO, LAURA BAILEY, ALEXA CHUNG, CHRISTA D’SOUZA, TANIA FARES, NIGELLA LAWSON, ROBIN MUIR, CHARLOTTE SINCLAIR, PAUL SPIKE, NONA SUMMERS EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER CAMILLA FITZ-PATRICK SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES EMAIL SYNDICATION@CONDENAST.CO.UK DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION & RIGHTS HARRIET WILSON INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER ELEANOR SHARMAN
- 53. 555 King’s Road,London, SW6 2EB 124 Holland Park Avenue, London, W11 4UE Harrods Brompton Road, London, SW1X 7XL T +44 (0)20 7229 5148 www.therugcompany.com Calypso by Suzanne Sharp
- 56. Enter our new homefor original short films, series and documentaries, and gain exclusive access into the glamorous world of Vogue VOGUE.CO.UK/VOGUEVIDEO D ON’T MISS •••••••• ••••••••• ••••••• ALEXA CHUNG’S FUTURE OF FASHION SERIES ALASDAIRMcLELLAN STEPHEN QUINN PUBLISHING DIRECTOR SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR SOPHIE MARKWICK SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER LEANDA MCCONNELL ACCOUNT MANAGER MATILDA McLEAN DIGITAL ACCOUNT DIRECTOR CHARLOTTE HARLEY BUSINESS MANAGER JESSICA FIRMSTON-WILLIAMS PA TO THE PUBLISHING DIRECTOR DEVINA SANGHANI ADVERTISING ASSISTANT HONOR PHEYSEY FASHION ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR (EUROPE) SUSANNAH COE ACTING SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER (EUROPE) CLARA SCANDELLA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER US SHANNON TOLAR TCHKOTOUA US ACCOUNT MANAGER KERYN HOWARTH HEAD OF PARIS OFFICE HELENA KAWALEC ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER (FRANCE) FLORENT GARLASCO REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR KAREN ALLGOOD REGIONAL ACCOUNT DIRECTOR HEATHER MITCHELL REGIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER KRYSTINA GARNETT ACTING EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR JO HOLLEY RETAIL PROMOTIONS EXECUTIVE CHARLOTTE SUTHERLAND-HAWES DEPUTY PROMOTIONS DIRECTOR POLLY WARRICK ACTING PROMOTIONS MANAGER KATHERINE PITCHER CREATIVE SOLUTIONS ACCOUNT MANAGER JESS PURDUE PROMOTIONS ART DIRECTOR DORIT POLLARD ACTING PROMOTIONS ART DIRECTOR ABIGAIL VOLKS ACTING PROJECT MANAGER MAJA HAVEMANN CLASSIFIED DIRECTOR SHELAGH CROFTS CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER SARAH BARON SENIOR CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVES/TRAINERS SARAH HAWKINS, NATALIE MOSS-BLUNDELL, OLIVIA OSBORNE SENIOR CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVES HARRIET BUTLER, EMMA WILLEY, ZOE GAUNTLETT CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE JENNA COLLISON, ALICE WINTERS HEAD OF DIGITAL WIL HARRIS DIGITAL STRATEGY DIRECTOR DOLLY JONES DIRECTOR OF VIDEO CONTENT DANIELLE BENNISON-BROWN MARKETING DIRECTOR JEAN FAULKNER SENIOR RESEARCH MANAGER HEATHER BATTEN RESEARCH MANAGER THERESA DOMKE DEPUTY MARKETING AND RESEARCH DIRECTOR GARY READ ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING SUSIE BROWN GROUP PROPERTY DIRECTOR FIONA FORSYTH CONDE NAST INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS NICKY EATON DEPUTY PUBLICITY DIRECTOR HARRIET ROBERTSON PUBLICITY MANAGER MELODY RAYNER ACTING PUBLICITY MANAGER RICHARD PICKARD CIRCULATION DIRECTOR RICHARD KINGERLEE NEWSTRADE CIRCULATION MANAGER ELLIOTT SPAULDING NEWSTRADE PROMOTIONS MANAGER ANNA PETTINGER SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR PATRICK FOILLERET DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER SHEENA CHANDNANI MARKETING & PROMOTIONS MANAGER MICHELLE VELAN CREATIVE DESIGN MANAGER ANTHEA DENNING PRODUCTION DIRECTOR SARAH JENSON COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION MANAGER XENIA DILNOT SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER EMILY BENTLEY SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR KARENINA DIBBLE COMMERCIAL SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER LOUISE LAWSON COMMERCIAL AND PAPER PRODUCTION CONTROLLER MARTIN MACMILLAN COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR JESSICA BEEBY FINANCE DIRECTOR PAMELA RAYNOR FINANCIAL CONTROL DIRECTOR PENNY SCOTT-BAYFIELD HR DIRECTOR HAZEL MCINTYRE DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR ALBERT READ NICHOLAS COLERIDGE MANAGING DIRECTOR PUBLISHED BY THE CONDE NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD, VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S 1JU (TEL: 020 7499 9080; FAX: 020 7493 1345). DIRECTORS JONATHAN NEWHOUSE, NICHOLAS COLERIDGE, STEPHEN QUINN, ANNIE HOLCROFT, PAMELA RAYNOR, JAMIE BILL, JEAN FAULKNER, SHELAGH CROFTS, ALBERT READ, PATRICIA STEVENSON JONATHAN NEWHOUSE CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE, CONDE NAST INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR LUCY DELACHEROIS-DAY ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER SALLIE BERKEREY
- 58. www degrisogono com BA L H A R B O U R C A P R I C O U R C H E V E L D U B A I G E N E VA G S TA A D K U WA I T LONDON MOSCOW NEW YORK PARIS PORTO CERVO ROME ST MORITZ LONDON BOUTIQUE - 15A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. +44 (0)207 499 22 25
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- 61. the digital newsletterhas nothing on the art of pen-and-ink letter writing. A bedside drawer of dispatches from faraway friends or a lover has been replaced by a stash of auto-corrected Apple notes, and our longings are jotted in the anonymous Adobe Myriad font, instead of fountain pen. But although setting aside the time to put our most personal thoughts on paper is now a preciously rare pastime, it’s not altogether lost. Channel the power of today’s handwritten how-are-you or love note with Theprovocateur.eu, a site dedicated to modern letter exchange between female writers; refresh your penmanship with an Idler course; then capture your thoughts on personalised stationery from the Mount Street Printers, right. A bit of all WRITE Cabbage patch kids THE PEOPLE, PLACES, IDEAS AND TRENDS TO WATCH NOW NEW What’s Edited by JULIA HOBBS HIGH FIVE Dressing for warmer days in the office is all about simplicity. Look to London designer Osman Yousefzada to streamline your wardrobe for high summer. His capsule collection of five-by-five perfectly tailored styles (trousers, tops, dresses, coats and knitwear) will do the hard work for you. Our favourite piece – the asymmetric shirtdress, right – is a surefire success. Living off “the fatta the lan”, as Steinbeck wrote, is currently high on the agenda for London’s restaurateurs. Roof space turns makeshift allotment for the green- fingered chefs at the Culpeper in Whitechapel, which counts tomatoes, baby gem lettuce and wild garlic among its ripening stock. Stay in one of its recently opened bedrooms to take breakfast crop-side. More ingenious still are space- conscious agriculturalists Farm Drop, whose “click-to-harvest” food delivery service (Farmdrop.com) serves produce straight from the world’s first “subterranean farm” – a two-and-a-half-acre plot buried deep underground near Clapham North Tube station. For a taste of rural life above ground, head to Covent Garden. It’s now home to Farmstand, a new spot inspired by the roadside stalls of the American Midwest, with all produce coming from farmers in Britain. Petersham Nurseries will plant a second site nearby next year, too. LMcG OSMAN COTTON SHIRTDRESS, £395, AT MATCHES FASHION.COM CARAN D’ACHE FOUNTAIN PEN, £235 BRUCEWEBER;PIXELATE.BIZ The Culpeper’s rooftop allotment MOUNT STREET PRINTERS PERSONALISED NOTECARDS, FROM £160 FOR 100
- 63. BRICKELL BOUND Sun seekersdrawn to South Beach’s kitsch-cum-hip zone have a new, downtown neighbourhood to explore. The airy, luxury boutiques of Miami’s Design District have triggered a bright-minded rejuvenation of the city’s southerly Brickell City Centre. This is Miami’s answer to Manhattan (only with an The end of the line Perfecting a flawless cat’s-eye is now a thing of the past: splotches of inky liner and gothic kohl streaks (as seen at Dries Van Noten, Sacai and Marc Jacobs) have replaced fine flicks. Abandon the delicate brush and go for a finger-painted effect. underground art events and DJ booths are now the industry’s favourite alternative scouting grounds, with designers calling in their crushes to moonlight on the catwalk. “Nodels”, or non-models, including artist Jane Moseley at Balenciaga, photographer Petra Collins at Gucci and DJ Clara Deshayes at Vetements, are a part of the new, atypical line-ups challenging conventional casting. While the career model isn’t facing extinction any time soon, come September, we’re predicting a host of talented part-timers will be stealing the show. For the newest faces on the catwalk, modelling is only part of the story… appealingly warmer climate). The proof? Saks Fifth Avenue is set to open this autumn. Book a sought-after table at Uruguayan restaurant Quinto La Huella (788 Brickell Plaza) to observe New Yorkers in their new winter habitat. & OTHER STORIES BOMBAZINE BLACK CHUBBY EYE MARKER, £15 ESTEE LAUDER MAGIC SMOKY POWDER SHADOW STICK IN BURNT BLACK, £18 CLARINS FOUR COLOUR EYESHADOW PALETTE IN OUD, £34 of the “NODEL” THE RISE DJ: Clara Deshayes ARTIST: Jane Moseley PHOTOGRAPHER: Petra Collins EMILYWEISS/INTOTHEGLOSS;ISTOCK;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS; PAULBOWDEN;PIERREANGE-CARLOTTI;PIXELATE.BIZ;REXFEATURES VETEMENTS BALENCIAGA GUCCI DRIESVANNOTEN inVOGUE 61
- 64. CREATING ICONIC FOOD ANDBEVERAGE CONCEPTS VOGUECAFE.COM Moscow Kiev Dubai BangkokINTERNATIONAL | RESTAURANTS
- 65. JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS ON AND OFFTHE CATWALK, FLASHES OF PURE WHITE ARE HAVING A DAZZLING MOMENT. SARAH HARRIS TAKES A REFRESHER COURSE White NOISE there’s a style trick that no one is talking about, and that’s because it’s one of those that only comes to the surface once it’s been played on repeat from London to New York to Milan to Paris, where it wasn’t witnessed only on the runways but trickled out to the street, too. (Or did it start on the street and trickle on to the runways? Who knows.) At some point in the season, in between noting The Big New Trends and The New Names, there was a moment to observe something else quietly taking place on the horizon. Suddenly, those in inner circles had discovered a new way of getting dressed; it’s like they all got the memo but no one knows who sent it. And guess what? It doesn’t require some nifty kind of hoicking or skilful knotting technique or flair with a fastening; it isn’t remotely demanding and it doesn’t require height, or a wasp waist, or oodles of money for that matter. Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? Want in? White. > CALVINKLEINCOLLECTION CELINE VALENTINO VICTORIABECKHAM 63 inVOGUE
- 66. JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS A refreshing hitof white is now the tonic to turn a palette of darks from boring and insignificant into something memorable and interesting. Consider Prada: what is it about those khaki or navy double-breasted military wool jackets that is so appealing, and that feels so now? Really, don’t we all have something similar in our wardrobes already that does that job? What we don’t have, however – but achingly need – is one that comes with that white cotton corset belt and the skewed white cotton collar. Likewise, what’s so alluring about Valentino and those opening midi-length moody looks with cross-body bags? It’s the white shirt-tails, untucked, front and centre. What’s the kicker at Céline? What makes that beige gabardine big-pocketed jacket so next level? It’s the white cord drawstring – and yes, those white wide trousers as well, skimming along the floor. Victoria Beckham is in on the act, too, highlighting a rust-coloured ribbed knit dress with a stark white bandeau intarsia. A bolt of white extends to accessories – and nothing says “I’m expensive” better than those. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia re-energised a heavy chocolate-brown wool skirt and trad Fair Isle knit combo with bright white over-the- knee platform boots. It’s specifically those dazzling whites that catapult the look to fever-pitch desirability (although, granted, a packet of Wet MULBERRY LEATHER SHOES, £645 LOEWE LEATHER BAG, £1,450 JIMMY CHOO SUEDE AND LEATHER BOOTS, £725 Wipes will become your new best friend when it comes to removing the day’s dirt). If you’re fearful of an all- white bag, look to Mulberry, where new frontman Johnny Coca employs the optic as a singular panel alongside darker combinations such as black and claret – and likewise with shoes. For a starter pack: try a white belt over a black sweater, or a simple white poloneck under a V-neck or crew-neck knit. Yank white shirt cuffs from under blazersandcoats,orlayerawhiteT-shirt under dresses with plunging necklines. One word of advice: keep it clean.This is an idea that won’t extend to anything other than whiter than white. BALENCIAGA ALL WHITE NOW COURREGES COATED-COTTON JACKET, £1,288, AT MATCHES FASHION.COM A refreshing hit of white is now the tonic to turn a palette of darks from boring and insignificant into interesting Bright sparks: from far left, Jane Keltner de Valle, Giovanna Battaglia and Patricia Manfield MULBERRYJWANDERSONPROENZASCHOULER LEMAIRE ASYMMETRIC COTTON SCARF, £475, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM 64 inVOGUE
- 71. (BT landline callsto 0844 numbers will cost no more than 5p per minute; calls made from mobiles usually cost more) *Offer limited to new subscribers at UK addresses and to direct debit payments only until 31/10/2016. For privacy policy and permission details, log on to www.magazineboutique.co.uk/youraccount. 3 I S S U E S O N LY £ 3* E X C L U S I V E T R I A L O F F E R Try VANITY FAIR for only £3 and enjoy 3 copies of the unique magazine. No other magazine combines the grit of a serious newspaper with the glamour of a glossy in quite the same way. After your exclusive trial offer, contact us to stop receiving the magazine or let your subscription start automatically. When your subscription starts, you will receive a FREE WELCOME GIFT and the next 12 issues for only £31.50 – that’s 45% free. Plus print subscribers can now access the VANITY FAIR iPad and iPhone editions FREE, worth £47.88 as part of their subscription – all you need is your subscriber number. The digital editions deliver everything you get from the print magazine and more, through interactive graphics, galleries and video, adding value to the VANITY FAIR experience. CALL 0844 848 5202 REF KVF15142 OR VISIT WWW.MAGAZINEBOUTIQUE.CO.UK/VANITYFAIR/KVF15142 VANITY FAIR is home to a matchless stable of award-winning writers and photographers, many of them household names. These are men and women who break news and, in the process, make news. In terms of access and depth – the extraordinary lengths our contributors go to get under the skin of the story, to investigate the big issues thoroughly and intelligently – Vanity Fair is in a league of its own. The magazine reaches opinion-formers all over the world, who value its breadth and seriousness as well as its wit, its style and its sense of humour. FREE access to iPad and iPhone editions Home to the greatest writers, photographers and personalities who make and break the news
- 72. Subscribe to Vogueand receive Crabtree & Evelyn’s Florentine Freesia Flower Water, an enticing scent of Italian freesia, cyclamen and lily of the valley, blended with Italian orange, crisp pear and noble amber in an elegant fruity-floral composition. Crabtree & Evelyn is world-renowned for its quality fragrances, beautifully presented gifts and indulgent bath and body collections. Inspired by nature, the brand draws on its rich heritage and knowledge of plants to offer botanically-inspired products which enliven the senses and add a touch of luxury to everyday rituals. To discover a world of secret scents and delightful flowers visit www.crabtree-evelyn.co.uk. Subscribe to VOGUE Subscribe and receive a FREE fragrance from Crabtree & Evelyn, RRP £45!* 6 PRINT + FREE iPAD AND iPHONE EDITIONS + FREE GIFT* ALL FOR ONLY £12 CALL 0844 848 5202 REF CVO15881 OR VISIT WWW.VOGUE.CO.UK/SUBSCRIBE/CVO15881 *Offer closes August 9th, 2016. The offer and gift is subject to availability and limited to UK addresses. The rate of 6 for £12 is limited to direct debit payments and will be renewed at the rate of 6 for £19.50. FREE GIFT* RRP £45
- 73. GETTY;ISTOCK Two’s COMPANYMEET THREE PAIRSOF FEMALE FRIENDS LAUNCHING LABELS THAT REDEFINE EASY CHIC. BY ELLIE PITHERS as working definitions of friendship go, Henry David Thoreau was on the right track when he postulated: “The language of friendship is not words but meanings.” Had Thoreau been a particular breed of modern-day woman, he might have substituted “meanings” for “clothes”. And had he worked in fashion, the fruits of his friendships might have constituted fashion brands. This season, in quiet opposition to the pageantry of maximalist mega labels, a clutch of promising new lines is launching, masterminded by pairs of girlfriends. Attico is an Italian label founded by the Milan-based fashion consultant and designer Gilda Ambrosio, 24, and New York-based designer Giorgia Tordini, 31, which calls to mind a vintage-hued world of opulence. Based on the classic peignoir shape, the debut collection comprises antique-looking robes in pale pink satin with lampshade-tassel trim, in burnished bronze with Twenties- style chinoiserie embroidery, in star-spangled white chiffon (name: “Cher”), and in sumptuous red velvet. “We wanted it to feel rich, feminine, a little bit erotic,” says Tordini, speaking over the phone while conducting a factory visit in Bologna, where the embroidery is hand-executed by the same needles that stitch for Valentino. “I am safe, classic, minimal, I don’t take risks,” says Tordini. “Gilda is completely the opposite” With their long,espresso-coloured hair and faultless style, Ambrosio and Tordini have long been pursued at fashion weeks by a cortège of street-style photographers. It’s fitting that the duo came up with the germ of Attico in a cab at New York Fashion Week in September 2015. (Wise to the power of the street-style pageant, they also debuted Attico’s embroidered and military-green robes at Paris Fashion Week in February, above, flooding Instagram feeds.) “I am safe, classic, minimal, I don’t take risks,” says Tordini. “Gilda is completely the opposite. She adds things and I remove things. I wear high heels, Gilda wears sneakers.” Their opposing stances, however, served to enrich the design process, which began with a series of vintage kimonos and robes unearthed at the Rose Bowl Flea Market in LA. “We come up with different visions but we’re very open to each other’s ideas,”saysTordini.“When > From top: Gilda Ambrosio, on left, and Giorgia Tordini; their kimono- inspired designs ATTICO ATTICO VELVET DRESS, £669, AT STYLE BOP.COM 67 inVOGUE
- 74. GETTY;ISTOCK;SEBASTIANKIM you work aloneyou are closed in a box. You have no one to talk to. It’s good to be two because we have more ideas, different solutions to working on the subject.” Solutions were logistically difficult to come by, with Tordini in Manhattan and Ambrosio in Milan, but lengthy Skype calls and shared Pinterest boards – with images such as a gold and black 1971 woodcut by Reika Iwami and a deep-red Mark Rothko painting – ensured they were on the same page. Both shared a desire for practicality: they love the idea of a robe that can be worn over jeans and a T-shirt, layered over skirts as a housecoat, or as a dress in its own right. “We wanted them to be easy to wear, something you can genuinely throw on.” Next up: a website of curated, antique objects that relate to the Attico world, including vintage furniture, ceramics and jewellery. La Ligne also offers clothes so easy to wear, they may henceforth never leave your back. Launched by two former American Vogue colleagues, Meredith Melling (who describes her style as “bohemian New England”) and Valerie Boster (“tomboy”), the French-inflected pieces are inspired by the simple stripe. “At Vogue, Meredith and I saw that no matter the season, stripes proved to be timeless, classic staples,” says Boster. “It was important to us that the collection was built around investment pieces that you can eat, sleep, drink and dance in.” They joined forces with Molly Howard, former head of business investment at Rag & Bone, to launch a collection of striped sweaters, shirtdresses, pyjama separates, jumpsuits and off-the-shoulder tops, more than half of which are produced in New York. The more enduring of these styles comprise the Essentials category, an assortment of signature pieces that will be available every season, while the trend-led pieces are termed the Edition, offering a biannual injection of newness. “Stripes on stripes on stripes!”is their joyful styling directive; their attuned mindset often extends to turning up to work in identical outfits. They also socialise together, having recently returned from a weekend in Carmel, California. Between them, theyspanthreedecadesofwomanhood. “We’re at different stages in our lives and that is reflected in the type of clothing we make,” says Howard. Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley confess that their age was a factor in informing the direction of their jointly designed label, too. Aged 42 and 43 respectively, they quietly launched Hillier Bartley for autumn/winter 2015 with a conscious desire to create “womanly” clothes, in a stark departure from the peppy, youth- centric garments that they had been turning out as the creative directors at Marc by Marc Jacobs, a position they held for three seasons until it was absorbed into the main line last year. Having met in a Chelsea pub in 1999, they enjoy the kind of intuitive understanding – including an ability to finish each other’s sentences – that comes after 17 years of working and playing together. Their new season offering is full of genteel pieces in beautiful fabrics that tread the line between dandy and delinquent.There’s a double-breasted corduroy suit with ankle ties, a series of high-necked silk shirts with Thirties tasselled neck-ties and pearly buttons, an offbeat body- swamping jacket with a Persian carpet print, and several chinoiserie-tinged silk dresses and dressing-gown coats that have the appeal of treasured, inherited pieces. Bartley explains that the label is their interpretation of what they thought fashion was missing – a women-friendly collection, designed by women, on their own hype-free terms. They’re in good company. “The collection was built around pieces you can eat, sleep, drink and dance in” From top: Katie Hillier, on left, and Luella Bartley; their latest collection, available at Matches fashion.com LA LIGNE VOILE TOP, £305, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM LA LIGNE JERSEY AND POPLIN DRESS, £455, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM HILLIER BARTLEY LA LIGNE Meredith Melling and Valerie Boster inVOGUE
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- 78. THE WORLD’S LEADING TRAVELMAGAZINE EXCLUSIVE TRIAL OFFER • The best travel writers and most amazing photographers in the world • The hottest destinations and places to stay • The most delicious food and drink hangouts • The latest style trends • The top insider guides to off-the-radar spots CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER GIVES YOU: To subscribe: cntraveller.com/subscribe/KCT15139 or Call 0844 848 5202 (ref KCT15139) Try Condé Nast Traveller for only £3 and enjoy 3 copies of the magazine After your exclusive trial offer, contact us to stop receiving the magazine or let your subscription start automatically. When your subscription starts, you will receive a FREE WELCOME GIFT and 1 year of print and digital editions for only £24 - that’s 71% free. Also as a subscriber you will automatically qualify for FREE membership to the Members Club. *Offer is limited to new subscribers at UK addresses and to direct debit payments only until 10/08/2016 BT landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost no more than 5p per minute - calls made from mobiles usually cost more. 3 ISSUES ONLY £3* ACCESS ON iPAD AND iPHONE FREE
- 79. > sitting in herliving room against the backdrop of an intricate wallpaper of green vine leaves that swirl and twist with studied precision, AS Byatt, 79, considers the legacy of the early-20th-century dress designer, inventor, painter, sculptor and photographer Mariano Fortuny. “He invented endless different dyes, and endless different images to print on to cloth. He brought together things that nobody else would have brought together,” she says. “But in the end, Fortuny’s skill was to make you look at the world completely differently once you’d seen his work. It’s like hitting on Shakespeare rather than a minor Elizabethan dramatist.” And, she continues, the same can be said for another polymath, born a generation earlier in 1834,the designer of tapestries,carpets,gardens,stained- glass windows, and of Byatt’s wallpaper: William Morris. Fortuny was a Spanish-born aristocrat who lived most of his life in Venice; Morris was a socialist, who led the very English Arts and Crafts Movement. Politically, neither man would have given the other the time of day. But, as Byatt shows in her latest book Peacock and Vine, with her characteristic literary panache, these two titans of decoration and design also had much in common, and the study of one brings into better relief the work of the other. Or, as she more poetically writes, “Aquamarine, gold green, English meadows, Venetian canals.” Part shared biography, part rumination on their work, and part gallery, filled as it is with lovely images, the book is thematically arranged. It Go with the FLOWAS Byatt’s new book traces the parallel lives of William Morris and Mariano Fortuny. Violet Henderson talks to her about the enduring influence of two extraordinary artists shows how both men understood that creativity should be tempered by form (Fortuny was an engineer, Morris knew his geometry); how they engaged with mythology and developed their own; how they understood colour,shape and line; and how neither of them ever stopped working or learning. When the doctor declared Morris dead, he said that his “disease was simply being William Morris, and having done more work than most 10 men.” Morris’s aesthetic is today etched into Britain’s cultural consciousness. The name behind the finely detailed, sumptuously realised botanical prints has become synonymous with Victorian England. And yet, like the Pre-Raphaelites with whom he worked closely – Ford Madox Brown, Edward Burne-Jones, the architect Philip Webb and Dante Gabriel Rossetti (excruciatingly for Morris, his wife’s lover) – he continues to be relevant today. > “You look at the world completely differently once you see his work” Above right: Lauren Hutton in a pleated silk two-piece and cape by Fortuny, 1975 Background: Pink & Rose (1890) by William Morris and, left, Sweet Briar (1912), by Morris’s apprentice JH Dearle WILLIAMMORRIS/PRIVATECOLLECTION/THESTAPLETONCOLLECTION/BRIDGEMANIMAGES; MORRIS&CO;WILLIAMMORRIS/PRIVATECOLLECTION/BRIDGEMANIMAGES;GRANGERNYC/ALAMY Original Morris & Co wallpaper swatches HOUSE OF HACKNEY X WILLIAM MORRIS CUSHION, £148 MIU MIU BROCADE BAG, £1,710 73 VOGUEview
- 81. Morris’s political aims,to make “art for all” and beautify the ugliness of society with his craft, were compromised during his lifetime by how much it cost to produce his work. Nowadays, however, Morris is more financially attainable. Printing is cheaper, Morris & Co continues to sell his designs, and create new interpretations of them on rolls of wallpaper, cushions, bedspreads, even umbrellas. And Morris is forever being reimagined elsewhere,from the graphic print that ornaments this season’s Miu Miu pieces to John Derian’s ceramics and House of Hackney’s seasonal tribute to him. As the latter brand’s director,Frieda Gormley,says:“Morris’s designs bring a comforting nostalgia to those who grew up with them, along with capturing the zeitgeist for prints inspired by the natural world.” Fortuny’s legacy is harder to trace. Byatt knew little of him when she first visited the Fortuny Museum, a grand Venetian palazzo where he lived and worked with Henrietta, his wife, collaborator and muse. And yet, during his lifetime, Fortuny was really very famous.Not that the shy creator sought this, far from it: few made it into his home, although Orson Welles found a way in 1949 and coerced the then old man to lend some costumes for his film adaptation of Othello. But whatever the “little Leonardo” or the “magician of Venice” (as he was variously nicknamed) made attracted attention. Having studied the new technology of electric lighting in Paris, and been disappointed by how theatres were lit, Fortuny set about revolutionising stage lighting with a dome-like structure that was adopted in theatres across Europe. Later, he reduced the scale of his invention to make the Fortuny Moda Lamp, still sold today. Fortuny painted, too, and his work won him prizes and spots in museums. He took to photography, capturing Venice and nude women. As Helmut Newton observed, “His photography isquiteextraordinary…sounexpected, so completely modern.” But it is for his dresses that softly swathe and reveal the female form that Fortuny will be chiefly remembered. Made at the turn of the century, when the rest of the world was squeezing itself into corsets, they were worn by Queen Marie of Romania, Peggy Guggenheim and Mrs Condé Nast. Lauren Bacall chose vintage scarlet Fortuny for the 1979 Academy Awards and Natalia Vodianova shocking-pink Fortuny for the 2009 Met Gala, while Gloria Vanderbilt is a collector. Fortuny still exists as a company, but it now limits its production to scarves, bags, lighting and cushions. The result is that today a Fortuny gown is worth anything upwards of £10,000. The mystique is in the pleats – fine, long folds that were made so that the dresses hung like the robes of ancient Romans – and they were a closely guarded secret of engineering, involving heat, pressure and ceramic rods, the exact science of which died with Fortuny. Many have tried, but no one has been able to recreate them since. Little wonder, then, that Fortuny dresses have become the stuff of dreams. Kay, a character in Mary McCarthy’s novel The Group, is buried in Fortuny. And when the academic Susan Sontag died, Annie Leibovitz dressed her for her casket in a gown that she describes in her preface to A Photographer’s Life as “an homage to Fortuny”, with the explanation, “she had been sick on and off for several years, in hospital for months. It’s humiliating. You lose yourself. And she loved to dress up.” Fortuny was the inspiration for Hubert de Givenchy’s romantic, delicate collection of 1981, because, as Givenchy said at the time, “Fortuny invented a richness of colour, an exotic ambience and mélange of mysterious prints, simple shapes and details.” And that influence was replayed once more in Valentino’s 2016 couture collection. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli worked with Fortuny to make an array of dresses that glided and shimmered down the catwalk with the same lightness of being as the pieces they referenced, employing, too, burnt- out surfaces and painted patches. Fortuny’s dresses have exercised a strong pull over artists and writers as well as designers. The Spanish painter Joaquín Sorolla portrayed many of his female subjects in Fortuny, and Proust wrote often of his gowns: in A la Recherche du Temps Perdu Fortuny is the only living artist who is named. Proust praises how “faithful to the antique” his dresses are, “but powerfully original”, too. Byatt laughs when I ask if she has ever worn a Fortuny dress. “I couldn’t afford to get near one,” she says. But she keeps on her desk “this tiny little strip of brown cloth with an indescribable grey-green pattern on it, given to me by the lady in the Fortuny Museum’s gift shop. It’s the only Fortuny I will ever own, and I look at it every day. Never is it the same colour.” The designer clearly continues to haunt the writer, even now that Peacock and Vine is, for her, long finished. “I’ve got people in Fortuny dresses in the novel I’m now writing,” she says. “I’ve so enjoyed describing them. In fact, I’ve invented a very beautiful blue one. And I’ve put one of my heroines in it, to be painted.” “Peacock and Vine”, by AS Byatt, is published by Chatto & Windus at £14.99 The mystique is in the pleats – a closely guarded secret that died with Fortuny From top: Mrs Condé Nast in Fortuny, about 1919; Lauren Bacall (with Oliver Stone) wears Fortuny for the 1979 Academy Awards; Natalia Vodianova in Fortuny at the 2009 Met Gala WILLIAMMORRIS/PRIVATECOLLECTION/BRIDGEMANIMAGES;GETTY;PACIFICCOASTNEWS JOHN DERIAN APOCYNUM FRITILLARIA PLATTER, FROM £181, JOHNDERIAN.COM 75 VOGUEview
- 82. Turn any birthdaysoirée into a night to remember with a simple colour change. Precious metals from Pandora take on a mercurial tone with hints of oceanic splendour and intricate silver detail. You are encouraged to have your cake and eat it… Styling by Carrie Louise Party NIGHTS
- 83. VOGUE PROMOTION Opposite, frombottom left: 14ct gold necklace, £2,485. 14ct gold charms, £325. Sterling- silver charms, from £35. Sterling-silver Shimmering Ocean ring, on slice of cake, £99. Sterling-silver birthstone studs, £45 each. Sterling-silver and 14ct gold stacking rings, on vase, from £60. This page, from top: sterling- silver chains, on cake, from £30; with sterling- silver charms, from £35. 14ct gold charm, £269. 14ct gold and sterling-silver rings, on macarons, from £40. Sterling- silver birthstone rings, £40 each. 14ct Gold Radiant Elegance studs, £149. Sterling-silver mother-of-pearl studs, £40. All Pandora. To explore the full collection, visit Pandora.net CAKESBYLILYVANILLI.COM
- 84. PAGE breakThink summerholidays, think riveting reads. Vogue makes its book list 1. Jessie Burton has followed her bestselling debut The Miniaturist with The Muse (Picador, £12.99), in which two seemingly unconnected moments in time run side by side. In Thirties Spain, civil war threatens the peace of the Andalucian coast and the lives of a well-to-do expat family; 30 years later in London, a Caribbean émigrée encounters prejudice at every turn. Burton leaves a trail of breadcrumbs in the two storylines, arriving at a satisfying twist. 2. A richly drawn cast of twisted characters populates Kate Howard’s The Ornatrix (Duckworth, £8.99), set in sixteenth-century Italy. At its heart is Flavia, a young peasant disfigured by a facial birthmark, whose sabotage of her sister’s wedding sets into motion her own psychological unravelling. Howard’s lyrical style is much like her Renaissance beauties: beguiling, sometimes overwhelming. 3. Swedish blogger-turned-author Fredrik Backman bucks the Scandi-noir stereotype again with Britt-Marie Was Here (Sceptre, £14.99), a sunny read-in-one-sitting that sees a sixtysomething divorcee channel her sadness into revitalising a lacklustre town. 4. Sabine Durrant, former Sunday Times literary editor, has the ingredients for a thrilling beach read. In Lie With Me (Mulholland, £14.99), the case of a missing girl unsettles a Greek island. Alice returns to try to solve her friend’s disappearance – this time with Paul. In a riveting denouement, their romance collapses under the Mediterranean sun. 5. Mr M’s book sales are dwindling, but one reader remains in his thrall: his neighbour – the obsessive narrator of Herman Koch’s Dear Mr M (Picador, £14.99). As he records the writer’s movements, he prepares “new material” for Mr M’s famous work: a true-crime story of the teenagers who murdered their teacher – based on the narrator’s past. Koch’s Russian maze-of-mirrors novel leads down avenues more untrustworthy (and enticing) than his last. 6. Mary Gaitskill, known for the sadomasochistic story that became the film Secretary, publishes the surprisingly mainstream The Mare (Serpent’s Tail, £14.99). When a troubled Dominican girl moves in with a white, middle-class family, she finds solace in riding a horse. Contrasting experiences of race, class and motherhood clash as Gaitskill flicks between the voices of her damaged characters. 7. Róisín and François have come to Antarctica to escape private sorrows. In unaffected prose, Helen Sedgwick’s debut novel The Comet Seekers (Harvill Secker, £12.99) traces their romance to their ancestors. Anchoring the narrative to comet sightings through history, Sedgwick conjures up the ghosts that orbit these characters’ lives. 8. Fans of Cormac McCarthy’s The Road will find similar end-of-the-world thrills in Thirst, by Benjamin Warner (Bloomsbury, £12.99). In a broiling Baltimore summer, a fire has dried up waterways, cut power and blocked all phone service. Eddie and Laura must survive among their increasingly hysterical neighbours. Claustrophobic, neatly written and gripping. 2. 3. 5. 6. 7. 8. Louisa McGillicuddy packs the finest new fiction 1. 4. 78 A novel take
- 85. In a dingycourtyard in Kennington hides the bookbinder Sayaka Fukuda’s small rectangular workshop. A large window sprawls across one end of the room, the sink is filled with towers of ink-stained bowls and mugs of unfinished tea, the white walls are lined with standing desks and the lamps that sit on them pool light on to pots of knives, delicate quills, soft horsehair brushes, pages and pages of paper. It is not tidy, but as Sayaka shows me with quiet pride the projects she is working on, it is clear there is a delicate order. Neat, polite, with a penchant for Ren moisturiser (her work is hard on her hands), Sayaka makes it her business to beautify the written word, encasing albums, poetry, novels and more in calf or goat leather or fine Japanese paper. Because, despite our age of instant gratification, bookbinding remains in demand. And it remains artisanal, too. Machines cannot stretch damp calfskin over card to achieve just the right thickness, they cannot etch into the leather intricate vine designs, nor can they repair. Sayaka completed a one-year conservation course at West Dean College, specialising in books and library materials. Today about 50 per cent of her work is restoration, much of it received via the Mayfair bookshop Heywood Hill. She shows me a sorry red-leather edition of Don Quixote: the gilding has come off,the spine is broken.Later, she will sew the book together on new seams and, with a very, very fine pen, make good the misplaced letters from leaves of gold. “Fiddly work,” she says, which – judging by the way the gold leaf disobediently curls away from her steady fingers – is an understatement. Bookobscure.co.uk Inside the secret world of the bookbinder. By Violet Henderson TERENCEDONOVANARCHIVE; THEESTATEOFFRANCISBACON/DACS The relaxed, candid mood of Terence Donovan’s black-and-white portraits (many of which featured in the pages of this magazine) defined fashion photography in the Sixties and Seventies. AmonghiscontemporarieswasfellowEastender and friend David Bailey, who sits for a picture in Terence Donovan Portraits (Damiani, £35). Its publication coincides with an exhibition of Donovan’s work at the Photographers’ Gallery in Soho (July 15 to September 25). Nearby, the kill-for-a-reservation restaurant Palomar – known for elegant yet homely Levantine dishes – releases its first cookery book this month (Mitchell Beazley, £25). Recipes include challah bread and the more adventurous octo-hummus. (Pay a visit to its even cosier sister restaurant, the Barbary, now open in Covent Garden.) The devoted collector will be enthralled by Francis Bacon: Catalogue Raisonné (Heni, £1,000), a sumptuous edition that has been 10 years in the making. Its five volumes examine the painter’s emotionally charged style in microscopic detail, with X-ray photographs illuminating tiny details in his canvases. Also unflinching in detail are two memoirs about the legacy of a larger-than-life parent: in An Abbreviated Life (Harper, £18.99), journalist Ariel Leve addresses her turbulent upbringing by her single mother, a brilliant but unhinged poet. Though friends such as Philip Roth, Saul Bellow and Andy Warhol were frequent visitors to their Manhattan penthouse, Leve’s recollections of visits to her father’s house are the most captivating. Keggie Carew also pays tribute to her father, Tom – a decorated special operative during the Second World War, who was stricken by dementia in later life – in Dadland (Vintage, £18.99). She tells his story, piecing together documents from his military past, with poignancy and humour. LMcG Lavish volumes and hard- hitting memoirs make for wide-ranging non-fiction Fine print Below: from left, Jean Shrimpton, 1967; Jill Kennington, 1965. Right: Stella Tennant in a suit by Hussein Chalayan, Vogue February 1995. All by Terence Donovan Above: Jimi Hendrix by Donovan, 1967. Left: Portrait of George Dyer in a Mirror (1968), by Francis Bacon. Below: Ariel Leve’s enthralling memoir VOGUEview No jacket required
- 86. ALASDAIRMcLELLAN;ANGELOPENNETTA INTERACTIVE VOGUE EDITIONS FORiPHONE AND iPAD AUGUST ISSUE ON SALE NOW OR INCLUDED WITH YOUR PRINT MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONONLY £2.99 Vogue.co.uk/subscriptions
- 87. Romola Garai at the“life-jacket graveyard” on Lesbos MONIQUEJAQUES/THEINTERNATIONALRESCUECOMMITTEE on a hill on the Greek island of Lesbos, I stand with my back to a luminous plastic mountain. It is a dump for abandoned life jackets, and perhaps something more – a monument to the misery and the hope of hundreds of thousands of refugees, hope that they have carried across a three-mile stretch of inky black water between Turkey and here. Five months pregnant with my second child, I cannot quite bring myself to look too closely at the tiny yellow inflatables; the kind used in hotel pools on summer holidays to teach children how to swim. I’m here to observe the work of the International Rescue Committee (IRC), which supports refugees when they’ve come ashore. At my side are Katerina Selacha and her husband Jorgos Tyrikos, who run the Agkalia NGO, distributing food, water and clothes to the new arrivals. As we look across the sea, Jorgos speaks passionately about what drives him to help – at the turn of the last century, during a time of conflict in Greece, his grandmother was a refugee in Syria for six years. As he talks, I remember my own reasons for travelling here; the roads my forebears travelled and the violence they fled. My father recently gave me a leather folder of our family history, which he has spent the last few years researching. It’s a tale of terror,flight and,ultimately, integration, that starts in 1912, when a young Jewish man by the name of Bert Garai leaves Hungary for Germany, then Britain and America, with little but his wits, family photographs and a desire to succeed. Eventually, after returning to London in 1924, he marries a pale English girl and builds a successful press agency. Almost a century later, here I am, British as a wet Sunday afternoon. Some of the Garais, however, did not get out. At the back of the folder is a list of names retrieved from the Shoah database, which documents victims of the Holocaust: Clara, Erica, Vilma, Agnes, Josef, Henri… These are the members of my family who were left behind. On Lesbos this spring, as the war in Syria reached its fifth year, refugees carried photographs of the families they had left behind, too. Refugees like 24-year-old Syrian Nafeen Shekho, whom I meet sitting in the shade of an olive tree at the island’s Pipka transit site – they are called transit sites rather than refugee camps to denote their impermanence; refugee camps are seen as a more long-term solution. Nafeen was forced to go into hiding in a Kurdish region of Syria after her hometown of Damascus was shelled in 2013. A slight woman, she suffers from a rare blood disorder that requires regular monitoring and an annual biopsy. Because healthcare was limited where Nafeen was living, she hasn’t received any treatment for nearly three years, and with no other option, her father decided to pay for her to attempt to travel to Germany under the care of her uncle to seek treatment. She smiles awkwardly, twisting her tiny wrists in her lap as she describes the terrifying journey that brought her here.To make matters worse, her uncle suffered a heart attack on the boat. He is now recovering.“It was very difficult,” Nafeensays.“Wecrossedthemountains and were very tired and afraid. The situation on the boat was very bad, but I need to find medical treatment.” Nafeen quietly asks why I want to write about her situation, and I tell her the painful truth – that many Europeans don’t want her here. Despite the fact that, according to the UN Refugee Agency, UNHCR, 155,000 refugees arrived in Greece between the beginning of the year and the end of April, Europe is slowly, yet purposefully, closing its doors. Of course, this has not stopped people coming. Understandably, really – when you believe you’re facing certain death and that your children are, too, you will do anything to escape. Loading your family and what possessions you can into a leaky boat in the middle of the night doesn’t seem like such a bleak option. If there is a chance of a safer life waiting on the other side, you will take it. > The CROSSING In memory of her forebears – who were themselves forced to traverse continents – actress Romola Garai travels to Lesbos to consider the plight of the refugee “Iraq is the Wild West. The cheapest thing there is human life” 81 VOGUEview
- 88. MONIQUEJAQUES/THEINTERNATIONALRESCUECOMMITTEE;REXFEATURES Above: Romola at theUNHCR Kara Tepe transit site with its director, Stavros Mirogiannis. Top right: with Eddie Redmayne and Juno Temple in Glorious 39 A better life is what 44-year-old Latif was looking for when he recently came across on one such boat. A tall, powerful man, he has to stoop to welcome me in the doorway of his hut in the IRC Kara Tepe camp, where he has nothing but a roll-up mattress on the floor, and a single bare lightbulb hanging from the ceiling. Before Latif was a refugee he owned a construction company in Iraq’s Anbar Province. But in 2014 he was forced out of the area when 70 per cent of it fell under the control of Isis. As we sit together, he tells me about his journey to Lesbos, and he weeps. Latif is waiting in Kara Tepe for his brother who, weak from advanced colon cancer, was supposed to make the crossing four days after him but, a week later, is yet to arrive. Latif spent almost all of his money in Ankara paying for his brother’s chemotherapy, but hasn’t told him the doctor’s devastating news: that without further treatment he has just months to live. With no possibility of a safe life in Iraq, Latif felt they had no option but to pay people smugglers to try to get them across part of the Aegean Sea illegally. So the brothers took a coach to the Turkish coast and waited overnight in a freezing wood with a huddle of desperate men, women and children – some only babes in arms – for a man they didn’t know to sail them across the treacherous stretch of water. Although Latif arrived safely, Nato began patrolling these waters before his brother could make the journey. But despite the danger, the expense that has ruined him and dealing with the people traffickers, Latif will try to continue on to Germany – or anywhere that will care for his dying brother. “Iraq is the Wild West,” he tells me. “The cheapest thing there is human life.” nafeen and Latif are just two of nearly a million refugees who arrived on Lesbos from January 2015 to February 2016 alone. The vast majority of those arrivals were from Syria, Afghanistan or Iraq; all countries involved in long, intractable and brutal wars. And, despite the humbling generosity and kindness shown by the people of Lesbos to the arrivals, clothes, food and sanitation were at a premium. Still, thanks to aid agencies such as the IRC, refugees arriving on Lesbos earlier this year no longer faced the same humanitarian catastrophe that they did last summer. Then, in Mytilene (Lesbos’s main port), thousands of men, women and children were forced to sleep rough in a small park in the centre of the town, without basic amenities and relying on food donations. The IRC deployed its emergency team to Lesbos in July 2015, and quickly set to work to support the local municipality’s response. It installed showers and lavatories at Kara Tepe, a refugee transit site on the outskirts of Mytilene, and provided buses for the thousands of refugees arriving on Lesbos’s north shore, who, until transportation was put in motion, had to undergo a two-day walk across the mountainous island in 40-degree heat. It was a relief for hotelier Aphrodite Vatis, who last year helped some of the 600 people a day who washed up on her beach. “I would help them guide the boats to land and give them dry clothes, water and emergency aid,” she tells me, “and then return to serving lunch to our guests on the beach just yards away. By the end of the summer, guests were wading into the water to help me, as they could see I was so exhausted running the hotel and trying to help the refugees.” It may not be a problem that Aphrodite will face this summer. The EU-Turkey deal – which came into effect on March 20 – has, certainly in the short-term, reduced the number of arrivals on Lesbos’s shores, and all of those who do arrive are detained with the very real possibility that they will be returned to Turkey. There are currently more than 4,000 refugees being held on the island. For all it has been through, Lesbos faces a 70 to 80 per cent reduction in advance bookings for the 2016 summer season. Tourism is, of course, the island’s main source of income. “Three-and-a-half thousand people have drowned coming to our island; it’s a terrible way to die,” says Jorgos Tyrikos. “Yet I hope the people of Lesbos will be remembered well by history.” What he means, of course, is that the islanders were attempting to make a difference in an almost impossible situation – so much so that an international group of academics has nominated them for a Nobel Peace Prize. Indeed, despite being in the midst of a financial crisis, Greece as a whole has tried to help. At the time of writing, the mainland is housing more than 45,000 refugees, with more than 8,000 people being hosted on the islands. In 2016, Athens alone will house 20,000 refugees. Across the Mediterranean, Lebanon (ranked 84th on the world’s richest countries list) has accepted nearly 1.5 million displaced Syrians in the past five years, increasing its population by more than 33 per cent. By contrast, Britain has promised to host only 20,000 refugees over the next five years. Despite her frightening journey, when Nafeen speaks about the future she sounds hopeful. “I want to go to Germany, they welcome us there,” she says. Indeed, the country is already hosting more than a million refugees. “Some of my friends are already there, but we would go anywhere we could stay.And one day,I’ll go back to Syria.” Latif doesn’t seem to notice the tears rolling down his cheeks. “I used to build bridges,” he says. “I was a part of a community, and I still could be. My nephew is a first-year medical student. We have brains, experience, and we want to work.” When I ask him what he makes of his experience in Europe so far, he looks me in the eye with great intensity. “The people are good here,” he says. “I always feel like a person, I have been treated like a person, and I hope that one day my community will be civilised like yours.” For more information on the refugee crisis, or to make a donation,visit Rescue-uk.org 82 VOGUEview
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- 93. 1 GEAR UP FORSUITING, SCARF STRAPS AND PLENTY OF SPARKLE… ways to fall in love with the NEW SEASON CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JEWELLED SATIN, £855, MIU MIU. JEWELLED SILK MOIRE, £725, MANOLO BLAHNIK. JEWELLED SATIN, £1,695, BALENCIAGA SHOES AS JEWELLERY How to dazzle now? From the feet up. Take just one step in any of these jewelled stilettos and you’ll scale glittering heights 15 87 VOGUEspy
- 94. COLOURING BOOK by IainR Webb £10 ISBN: 978-1840917215 ON SALE NOW
- 95. ALEXANDERMcQUEEN 2 JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PIXELATE.BIZ RETHINK YOUR COCKTAILSUIT Take an offbeat approach to evening dress-up – Dries Van Noten’s gold lamé two-piece, paired with a scholarly oxford shirt and tie, is fabulously unexpected DRIESVANNOTEN PIN NUMBERS If Sarah Burton’s gowns embroidered with butterflies, stars and flowers weren’t enough at McQueen, the models’ hair was decorated with layered crystal slides and pins 7 A billowing silk scarf is one of summer’s most versatile accessories.Transfer your tying skills to your bag, twisting to replace the shoulder strap, as seen at Altuzarra and Louis Vuitton Scarf-strap bags Switch out your track pants with the new sporting contender – Eighties ski trousers, as seen at Balenciaga, Marni and Versace. Keep the stirrups in place with patent, pointed-toe court shoes OFF PISTE4 BALENCIAGA MARNI VERSACE Post summer, what better way to show off the kisses of holiday sun than by kicking bronzed pins out from under a heritage-tweed two-piece skirt suit? Bare legs in autumn MICHAELKORS COLLECTION A POLONECK UNDER A DRESS Extend the life of a romantic summer dress by layering a cashmere poloneck underneath for the long winter ahead 5 ALTUZARRA VALENTINO LOUIS VUITTON LEATHER BAG, £3,000 MAGDA BUTRYM Warsaw-based ex- stylist-turned-designer Magda Butrym, 31, is internationally Insta- tagged for her feminine/ masculine groove loaded with oversized proportions. Hits include deconstructed peekaboo silk blouses teamed with leather and sharp tailoring. At Net-a- Porter, Moda Operandi and Montaigne Market 8 JENNIFER BEHR HAIR CLIPS, FROM £300 ONE TO WATCH LULU FROST HAIR COMB, FROM £60 89 VOGUEspy
- 96. WHAT WOULD JOAN COLLINS DO? Thestatement earring still reigns supreme, but this season focus falls on Eighties shapes. Weighty gold and chandelier crystal will be your camera-ready sidekicks HOWTOWE AR YOUR BAG BORED OF YOUR BOMBER? If Alessandro Michele’s influence over the past 12 months is anything to go by, his nod to a Chinese-style cheongsam is our cue to seek embroidered silk jackets as an upgrade to that everyday bomber 11 GETTY;JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS;PIXELATE.BIZ Though created in 1962, the Jetsons’ space-age uniform of structured frills, orbiting zips and cartoon colour pop is proving relevant more than half a century on at JW Anderson a/w ’16 DRESS LIKE A JETSON JWANDERSON Three’s a trend: when a shoulder bag is worn tight across the body and tucked snug above the elbow on the Proenza Schouler, Valentino and Prada catwalks, well, this is your new season styling trick ONE TO WATCH JUAN CARLOS OBANDO “I love the fluidity of silk – its movement evokes and provokes and, most importantly, it works rather incredibly on the dancefloor,” enthuses Juan Carlos, who has an unassuming approach to eveningwear. His powerful use of colour, layered wrap silks and sizzling red frill dresses are the summer’s most complimented across dining rooms – and on dancefloors ETRO EMBROIDERED COTTON/SILK JACKET, £11,695 SAINT LAURENT CRYSTAL EAR CLIPS, £535 Lemaire was awash with Nineties preppy minimalism. The key piece? Stone-coloured chinos. Wear with block heels and belt high on the waist – less dad, more distinguished THE RETURN OF CHINOS… Take your cue from Prada: cinch a lace-up corset-belt-plus-leather- belt combo over everything from heavy coats to brocade dresses Middle way 15 GUCCI PRADA CARVEN POPLIN TOP, £230 GAP COTTON CHINOS, £40 LEMAIRE ASHLEY WILLIAMS CRYSTAL EAR CLIPS, £175 ANNELISE MICHELSON GOLD EAR CLIPS, FROM £390 PRADA CORSET BELT, £740 MARNI JERSEY DRESS, £620, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM CELINE LEATHER HEELS, FROM £480 PROENZASCHOULER 90 VOGUEspy
- 97. F A KE N O T H I N G I n the beginning were the gemstones, and the gemstones became our family’s world. Welcome to Gemporia, and our quest to restore genuine gemstone jewellery as the most sought after of personal possessions. We denounce the fakes and mass-produced synthetics that have the last few generations. We encourage women around the world to be at one with nature - to fake nothing. This issue we feature Csarite, 10,000 times rarer than Diamond and only found in the Anatolian mountains of Turkey, Csarite is a magical gem that changes colour under spiritually naked when dressed without a gem of nature, prices start from just £99.
- 98. YELLOW + CHOCOLATE After highsummer, tone down citrus with a delicious blend of rich chocolate FENDI SUEDE AND LEATHER BAG, £2,900 RUSSET + CLARET Paint it a darker red: this two-tonal trick works around the colour wheel MARCUSTONDO/INDIGITAL.TV;PIXELATE.BIZ;GETTY SET YOUR SIGHTS ON THE NEW SEASON? STAY AHEAD OF THE GAME BY BRUSHING UP ON THE LATEST COLOUR COMBINATIONS. BY NAOMI SMART MATCH of the day LOEWE MULBERRY JAMES DE GIVENCHY FOR TAFFIN CITRINE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, PRICE ON REQUEST ERMANNO SCERVINO LACE TOP, £1,140. SKIRT, £1,340. BELT, £280. ALL AT HARRODS H&M WOOL TROUSERS, £50 GIANVITO ROSSI VELVET HEELS, £495 CHRISTOPHER KANE WOOL COAT WITH JEWELS, £1,995 MONCLER SATIN JACKET, £785 ALEXANDER WANG STUDDED LEATHER BAG, £430 SONIA RYKIEL LEATHER SKIRT, £1,535 UNCOMMON MATTERS GOLD-PLATED CUFF, £140, AT AMAZON.CO.UK J&M DAVIDSON CASHMERE/SILK POLONECK, £185 92 VANESSA BRUNO COTTON TOP, £320, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM BAUM & PFERDGARTEN FAUX-FUR COAT, £219
- 99. ROCHAS GUCCI LEATHER HEELS, £485 DANIELA VILLEGAS PERIDOT, SAPPHIRE ANDTOURMALINE RING, £9,000, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM TIBI SATIN TOP, £310 TIBI SATIN SKIRT, £275 ANISSA KERMICHE GOLD-PLATED EARRINGS, £360, AT MATCHES FASHION.COM VANESSA SEWARD JUMPSUIT, £1,105, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM CHLOE LEATHER BAG, £1,145 DIOR VELVET FLATS, FROM £620 MARNI WOOL SKIRT, £1,980 ESCADA ANGORA SWEATER, £315 ATEA OCEANIE VELVET SHIRT, £390 REPOSSI PAVE-DIAMOND EARRINGS, £14,250 EACH, AT DOVER STREET MARKET BOTTEGA VENETA VELVET TROUSERS, £930 93 BOTTEGA VENETA VELVET JACKET, £1,935 EMERALD + GOLD Emerald is said to bring hope and wisdom. A touch of gold is a winning addition CLAUDIE PIERLOT SEQUINED JACKET, £420 GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI FALCON CUFF, FROM £460 BALENCIAGA PURPLE + NAVY Regal purple is the colour of the season; splice it with navy for everlasting appeal VOGUEspy
- 100. FOR YOUR NEARESTSALON VISIT WWW.TONIANDGUY.COM OR CALL 0800 7312396F : /toniandguyUK T : @toniandguyUK I : /toniandguyuk
- 101. you have tobe careful about dropping the A-bomb into conversation. Casually enquire after someone’s star sign at a party, or blame a missed email on Mercury in retrograde and you make a dangerous gamble. For some, it will be a bit like announcing you own everything Justin Bieber has ever recorded, or declaring that the earth is flat. The evangelical atheist Richard Dawkins reckons astrologers should be prosecuted. But he would. He’s an Aries. Few would say they believe in astrology, exactly… It’s more like a guilty pleasure, an irrationality of choice. Clearly it’s ridiculous to contend that an ancient Babylonian interpretation of the movement of the heavens, filtered through a bit of New Age pop psychology, might govern our innermost desires. Scientists don’t take horoscopes in the least bit seriously. But lost souls do, more and more. Astrology is ascendant in a way that may seem surprising in our binary, utilitarian age. Celebrities are extolling the virtues of the stars with increasing abandon. Lena Dunham recently announced: “Yes, you can be a very serious and substantial woman and also allow the planets to rule your soul!” Cara Delevingne (Leo) has a tattoo of a lion on her hand; Rita Ora (Sagittarius) has a bow and arrow behind her ear; Rihanna (Pisces) has two fish on her neck. Yet perhaps this makes sense: famous people often feel at the mercy of forces they can’t control. Meanwhile, a new generation is using the stars to chart their course through an increasingly uncertain world. “It’s not a niche market but a cultural movement,” according to Aliza Faragher, co-founder of the Los Angeles-based dating app Align, which makes matches according to astrological compatibility. Indeed, from stargazing retreats in Tulum to Gemini hate-memes on Tumblr (many stemming from the fact that Donald Trump is a Gemini) and the growing trend for biodynamic food “grown and harvested according to the phases of the moon”, all things cosmic are being redefined. How else to explain the 6 million visitors to Astrologyzone.com each month, the website of America’s most popular astrologer, Susan Miller? “Astrology is wildly popular with millennials,” Ruby Warrington, British journalist and founder of the website The Numinous, tells me on the phone from New York, where she’s now based. The site specialises in “modern cosmic thinking”.“As our lives become more entwined with technology and > Written in the STARSThere’s a new constellation of astrology gurus in the ascendancy. Richard Godwin charts their influence Left: Cara Delevingne’s lion tattoo, inset, denotes her Leo star sign 95 VOGUEspotlightDAVIDBAILEY;GETTY
- 102. ALIXZEILINGER;TIMGUTT we outsource thejob of knowing ourselves to our apps, devices and machines, a space is being created for a deeper investigation about what it really means to be human,” she says. The Numinous offers advice on how to cope with the Mercury retrograde (the thrice-yearly phenomenon where the transit of the messenger planet spells earthbound calamity) alongside articles on jewellery designers and orgasmic meditation workshops. “I see all things numinous as the missing pieces to the wellness craze that’s sweeping Britain and the rest of the world,” she says. “You can drink green juice and do all the yoga you want, but if you’re not addressing your emotional and spiritual wellbeing, too, it will have very little lasting impact.” The Numinous marks a shift away from astrology’s more naff associations. Now, it speaks to meditation, mindfulness and a wider “consciousness” movement, used less to predict the future and more as a means of understanding those endless subjects of fascination: ourselves. “Having a birth chart made is personal to you,” says London-based Carolyne Faulkner, astrologer for Soho Houses around the globe. “It maps the positions of the sun, moon, planets and other celestial objects when you were born. No one in the world has the same one.” Faulkner is the go-to woman for singers, actors and creative types who regularly fly her around the world to dispense one-to-one cosmic advice. And, as she explains, there’s a lot more to it than with newspaper horoscopes – as with molecules (and also Scientology) it all becomes more complicated the more you look. The locations of objects in the cosmos each influence a different aspect of your character. Your sun sign governs your identity, your rising sign is the face you present to the world (and your fashion sense), your moon sign represents your more hidden emotions, and so on. For some, seeing a high-end astrologer like Faulkner at Soho House is slightly less burdensome than seeing a shrink and often just as beneficial. The practice is also gaining intellectual respectability,claimmarriedastrologers Quinn Cox and Stella Starsky. He is a puckish Libran, formerly a journalist; she is a sensual Capricorn, formerly a buyer at Dries Van Noten. Together they now run a private cosmic consultancy in Boston for clients including Harvard professors and Wall Street investors.“They’re sophisticated, they’re unembarrassed and they tend to be ambitious,” says Cox. The pair don’t approve of “playing God” and making predictions for people’s futures, which they see as exploitative. “We prefer to use it as a tool for greater self-awareness,perhaps in addition to cognitive therapy or meditation,” says Starsky. They developed their “sexy-smart” style by making charts for friends after fashion shows, and went on to publish the cult bestselling book Sextrology (truly,an indispensable guide to human weirdness).Their main innovation is to divide the signs into male and female, and in place of the vague language of newspaper horoscopes, they are unnervingly specific, right down to physical details and sexual peccadilloes: Cancer males have womanly hips, Leo women like to go on top, Virgo men are highly controlling, and so on (it gets filthier). “We maintain that our book can be read cover-to-cover as a story of human nature,” says Starsky. “These are characters in a mythical, archetypal story. I think younger generations see that more readily than those into their granny’s astrology.” Scientists, of course, consider astrology a pseudoscience, as it begins with a premise and then seeks evidence to back it up, making it susceptible to confirmation bias. We see what we want to see in it. And as even Cox admits: “After every session we look at each other as if to say: ‘I have no idea why this works.’ I just know that once you buy into the idea of this thing being real, there are rules, everything is interrelated, and it’s always right.” But even with my confirmation-bias goggles on, I find it hard to get past the embarrassingly accurate description of me in Sextrology. (I’m Cancer male, Aries moon, Virgo rising, since you ask.) My habit of flipping my feet when I wake up in the morning, my loping gait, my pathological need for female approval.“It’s you,it’s definitely Richard Dawkins reckons astrologers should be prosecuted. But he would. He’s an Aries Above: Capricorn in Vogue’s December 2010 “Star Signs” shoot by Tim Gutt, with set design by Shona Heath. Below: American Vogue, August 1931 96
- 103. you,” confirms myAquarian wife, who otherwise considers astrology the pinnacle of narcissism. And when I supply Starsky and Cox with my full birth chart for a Skype consultation, I do begin to fear drowning in my own watery reflection. They tell me all sorts of things about myself: how the Mercury-Sun conjunction in my 10th house means writing is the perfect career for me, but that a Saturn-Jupiter opposition in my first house means I am always torn between conforming to the rules and colouring outside the lines. Am I too much or not enough? This is apparently a powerful dynamic for me. There are things about my mother, too, and teenage depression, and then something “leaps out” at them.“When you were about 19 there’s something totally out of left-field that happened that you’ve never really been able to explain…” says Cox. Erm, maybe the never-to-be-repeated gay relationship I had when I was a student in France? “OK! Well, yes, that figures!” I never tell anyone about this,I say,not because I’m ashamed but because it just seems like it happened to a different person. “You need to embrace it as part of your healing,” Starsky tells me. “It’s not about the thing itself, sex or anything like that,” says Cox.“It’s about the part of you that was available to that. It was the ‘Who am I?’ in that situation.” They advise me to read “Self- Reliance”, an 1841 essay by Ralph Waldo Emerson, and move to LA. I come away feeling dizzy, elated. Perhaps this is what comes with finally being understood! Perhaps I’m giving myself licence to express this now as Starsky says I need to stop retreating into my cerebral comfort zone and start following my instincts! Later, I have a comedown. Doesn’t everyone undergo some sort of transition at 19 or 20? Why did I confess that? But wasn’t their advice actually quite insightful? Wise even? I’m torn between wanting to confess more and more and feeling that this inward journey is dangerous and solipsistic. My Jupiter-Saturn playing up again. b ut as a system of identity, astrology chimes with many modern modes of thinking, bypassing the politics of ethnicity, gender, social class, religion and age. Astrology is also redemptive and non- judgemental, a way of legitimising “your weird”. Meanwhile, the fact that science-minded types find it so Above: gold and diamond pendant, £8,000, Noor Fares, at Dover Street Market. Below: white-gold and diamond pendant, £55,000, Theo Fennell Left: Tim Gutt’s portrait of Cancer, Vogue December 2010. Below: Strange Invisible Perfumes in Cancer, £105, Siperfumes.com appalling makes it all feel quite subversive, in the way of wearing a tutu to a football match. One of my favourite astrologers is Victor Vazquez (aka rapper-artist-novelist Kool AD), whose hip-hop horoscopes for Paper magazine are mocking and deadly serious at the same time. “I believe in astrology as much as, like, anything else,” he tells me. “I find its sort of outsider status among academics pretty attractive. Mysticism finds its way into everybody’s thinking whether we’re conscious of it or not.” Astrology’s popularity with a generation that has grown up Googling everything makes hella sense, as Kool AD might say. All you need is someone’s birthday, and ideally their precise time and place of birth, and you can log on to Alabe.com and call up a sort of Wikipedia page of their soul. “This represents a hugely empowering shift away from the astrologer as a guru figure, placing the answers firmly in the hands of the individual,” says Warrington. Our online interactions are mediated by the great gods of big data in any case, and archetypes aren’t so different from algorithms (“If you liked this Taurus, you might also like these Capricorns!”). They’re also a lot more, well, human. Why is my boyfriend such a control freak? He’s a Virgo. Why is the world so messed up at the moment? Mercury is in retrograde. And without discounting the influence of genetics and culture and education and so on, is it really so implausible that the time of year that you were born has some influence on your character? The moon governs the tides and creates tiny signatures in the form of pearls – moon-like emanations formed by the sea washing over oyster beds. Pretty! Might it not have some tiny effect on our moods,too? But then you reach the limits of the theory. The idea that Pluto, a minuscule rock 4.5 billion miles away,has any effect on our actions is absurd. But, as Albert Camus argued, only by recognising the absurd can you be free. In his autobiography,Speak,Memory, Vladimir Nabokov relates an episode that I have always found instructive. When he was a young boy, his father took him to say how-do-you-do to a famous general. The military man shows him a trick, arranging some matches in the shape of a boat, but then an aide-de-camp interrupts. The Russo-Japanese war has broken out and the general is needed at the front. Nabokov never sees the end of the trick. Many years later, his father is fleeing the Bolsheviks when a peasant approaches him at a railway station and asks for a light. It turns out to be the general in disguise. The meeting itself isn’t of much interest to Nabokov. “What pleases me is the evolution of the match theme… The following of such thematic designs through one’s life should be, I think, the true purpose of autobiography.” And of life itself, perhaps? These thematic designs run through all of our lives, irrespective of who or what we think is doing the designing. Consciousness is the gift that allows us to notice these signs and symbols. It is one of our highest callings, therefore, to train our senses and faculties to appreciate them all the more, from the tiniest pearl to the phases of the moon. Jung referred to astrology’s “synchronicity principle” – its meaningful coincidence. He did not believe that the planets literally cause us to act in certain ways. But they do provide a set of coordinates that allow us to slip out of the world of emails and alarms and into the realm of myth and poetry. It doesn’thavetobeempirically true. It doesn’t even need to signify anything. Perhaps it just needs to be beautiful. I’m torn between wanting to confess more and feeling that this inward journey is solipsistic. My Jupiter-Saturn playing up again 97 VOGUEspotlight
- 104. Weekend must-haves, themini-bags with maximum style and a celebration of art in fashion Edited by JO HOLLEY VOGUEchecklist MADE IN THE SHADE Go back to black with three accessories that make the most of your dark side. PEPE JEANS SUNGLASSES, £60, PEPEJEANS.COM GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI LEATHER RUCKSACK, £920, GIUSEPPEZANOTTIDESIGN.COM ART HOUSE Head to the Missoni Art Colour exhibition at Southwark’s Fashion & Textile Museum to discover the influence of 20th-century European art on Ottavio and Rosita Missoni’s designs. Organised by Gallarate art museum MAGA in collaboration with the renowned Italian fashion house, the show includes more than 40 paintings alongside previously unseen textile designs and finished garments from the Missoni archives. “Missoni Art Colour” is at the Fashion & Textile Museum, SE1, until September 4. Ftmlondon.org WHAT’S IN VOGUE’S WEEKEND BAG? Our edit of excursion essentials. EDDIE HARROP LEATHER HOLDALL, £650, EDDIEHARROP.COM FENDI LEATHER BELT, £310, FENDI.COM LARSSON & JENNINGS WATCH, £245, LARSSONANDJENNINGS.COM Inside Missoni Art Colour MISSONI Navy wool-mix jacket, £380. Trousers, £189. Cotton-mix sweatshirt, £85. Leather camera bag, £575. All Boss, at Hugoboss.com 98
- 105. LITTLE GEMS Worn singly or layered,these coloured gems create quite the statement. MERCEDES LEATHER PHONE CASE, £35.50, SHOP. MERCEDES- BENZ.COM ASCENO BIKINI TOP, £95. BIKINI BOTTOMS, £95. ASCENO.COM TOM FORD ORCHID SOLEIL EAU DE PARFUM, £76, AT SELFRIDGES.COM HUAWEI P9 SMARTPHONE, £449, AT CARPHONE WAREHOUSE Go retro and add laid-back round frames to your sunglasses collection. Round up CHLOE £245, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM TAYLOR MORRIS £210, TAYLOR-MORRIS.COM BOTTEGA VENETA £330, BOTTEGAVENETA.COM YOHJI YAMAMOTO £405, AT MATCHESFASHION.COM DIOR CAROL JOY COLLAGEN SPRAY, £100, CAROLJOY LONDON.COM KATE SPADE NEW YORK LEATHER, £228, KATESPADE.CO.UK Less is more… Embrace the mini-bag this season: not only is downsizing your handbag a weight off your shoulder, it ensures you edit its contents to the bare essentials. FURLA LEATHER, £210, FURLA.COM VALENTINO LEATHER, £2,240, VALENTINO.COM FROM LEFT: POMELLATO GOLD CHAINS WITH AMETHYST, MADEIRA QUARTZ AND BLUE TOPAZ PENDANTS, £1,320, POMELLATO.COM MELI MELO LEATHER, £195, MELIMELO.COM PALMAIRA SANDALS LEATHER SANDALS, £45, PALMAIRASANDALS.COM 99 JASONLLOYD-EVANS;MITCHELLSAMS
- 106. LOSE YOURSELF INA WORLD of VINTAGE FIND YOURSELF IN OXFAM’S ONLINE SHOP oxfam.org.uk/shop
- 107. Yes, we maybe about to head off in search of glorious summer sun, but that doesn’t mean we’re not planning our autumn wardrobes, too. Will you fall for the new season’s divinely decorative pieces that urge romance; flirt with a proper party frock in the shape of a metallic minidress with an Eighties shoulder; or pine for nostalgia via golden brocades and heritage checks? It’s all for the taking. Welcome to the autumn collections and, too, the new accessories that set them singing FIRST LOOK vogue Coated-cotton pea coat, £3,300. Angora sweater, £780. Both Dior. Hair: Rudi Lewis. Make-up: Maki Ryoke. Model: Jean Campbell. Styling: Francesca Burns. Photograph: Angelo Pennetta 101
- 108. From left, Jeanwears snakeskin coat, £4,995. Patchwork snakeskin bag, £1,295. Both Burberry. Cashmere/ silk poloneck, £480. Medallion necklace, price on request. Both Hillier Bartley. Lily wears snakeskin trench coat, £4,995, Burberry. Poloneck body, £320, La Perla. Glasses, courtesy of Carlo Manzi. Hair: Rudi Lewis. Make-up: Maki Ryoke. Nails: Rica Romain. Production: Pony Projects. Digital artwork: Output. Models: Jean Campbell and Lily Stewart Plot a new style map – Manhattan’s Lower East Side is now the centre of a full-throttle arts scene. Where better to showcase the striking attitude of the autumn collections than on these simmering streets? Photographs by Angelo Pennetta. Styling by Francesca Burns The Lower East Side strut is about a slick Seventies approach – Burberry’s glossy trench sets the pace en route to Manhattan’s Metrograph cinema New York’s FINEST 102
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- 110. When on Ludlow,this season’s Louis Vuitton girl travels light. Her style credentials? The scarf-print slip, track-star tee and borrowed gentleman’s coat Lily wears silk slip dress, £4,500. Wool top, £1,000. Wishbone earrings, £450. Jean wears wool coat, £2,500. Jersey top, £1,500. All Louis Vuitton 104 ANGELO PENNETTA
- 111. On the Bowery,late-night discotheque platforms kick it by daylight. Well, Demna Gvasalia’s arrival at Balenciaga was bound to challenge convention… Leather and sheepskin coat, £4,250. Cotton shirt, £515. Denim jeans, £375. Leather boots, £675. All Balenciaga 105
- 112. As the dayends in Tompkins Square Park, Armani’s dappled florals direct a darkly romantic scene Floral-print voile dress, £3,050. Men’s blue wool/linen coat, £1,750. Both Giorgio Armani 106
- 113. The new LESintelligentsia head across to the Downtown Whitney. Keep tailoring highbrow with Hillier Bartley’s dapper cool Checked wool coat, £3,250. Fair Isle halterneck top, £240. Leather trousers, £2,100. All Hillier Bartley, at Matchesfashion.com. Leather loafers, £365, Crockett & Jones 107ANGELO PENNETTA
- 114. Worn way downin Chinatown, Chanel’s classic mac is anything but traditional Cotton-satin trench coat, £4,090, Chanel. Wool poloneck, as before. Leather cross-body bag, £750, JW Anderson, at Matchesfashion.com. Leather boots, £1,500, Hermès108
- 115. The low-key, decadentcrowd gathering around the jukebox at underground nightspot Mr Fong’s give good modern-retro style. Cue an uptown hit – Michael Kors’s frothy blouse and jacquard lounge trousers are very now White silk-georgette blouse, £906. Gold jacquard trousers, £1,374. Both Michael Kors Collection. Beauty note: nothing is more city sleek than poker-straight hair. Smooth with Bumble & Bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil before and after styling 109ANGELO PENNETTA
- 116. Yes, Ralph Laurenmay be all-American, but he’s just as easily charmed by old-world pursuits and English heritage; a trad checked gentleman’s suit is a case in point Checked cashmere jacket, £3,230. Silk/cotton shirt, £810. Silk tie, £147. All Ralph Lauren Collection 110 ANGELO PENNETTA
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- 118. Ultra short! Shoulders!Shine! Hedi Slimane’s adieu to Saint Laurent is brazenly, brilliantly Eighties-luxe Lily wears sequined minidress, £9,870. Patent-leather belt, £345. Snake chain choker, £685. Jean wears sequined asymmetric-shoulder minidress, £5,350. All Saint Laurent. Both wear tights, £16, Falke. Beauty note: a high-shine red lip adds seductive autonomy in a flash. Try Bobbi Brown Lip Color in Red, £20, for a polished finish 112 ANGELO PENNETTA
- 119. In a citythat never sleeps, who needs clothes in, well, sleep mode? Alessandro Michele’s spirited, gorgeously decorative designs have re-energised Gucci – you’ll find they’ll do the same for your mood Jean wears sequined dress with fringing, £13,300. Tights, £40. Suede platforms, £660. Knuckleduster ring, £335. Lily wears wool-jacquard coat with goat-hair trim, £2,370. Silk-crêpe polo shirt, £815. Wool poloneck, £440. Leather boots, £955. Glasses, from a selection. Knuckleduster ring, £335. All Gucci
- 120. Dolce & Gabbanawere thinking about fairy tales for autumn – in their book, modern-day princesses favour black as much as wicked witches do. NB: romantically swooping necklines are sure to invite Prince Charming Lily wears wool-crêpe dress, £1,350. Jean wears draped silk-tulle dress, £2,150. Both Dolce & Gabbana. Both wear chainmail earrings, £120, Paco Rabanne 114 ANGELO PENNETTA
- 121. Riccardo Tisci’s psychedelicBowie-esque metallic jackets and multiprint dresses for Givenchy prove an electrifying combination Patchwork leather jacket, from £10,050. Patchwork dress, from £3,890. Suede and leather boots, from £1,190. All Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, at Harrods 115
- 122. It’s precisely upscaledpieces like these – a pair of chalky camo-print trousers, say – that the Vetements collective has catapulted to new heights of desirability Belted wool coat, from a selection. Shearling stole, from £680. Camouflage trousers, from £760. Leather boots, from £970. All Vetements, at Selfridges. Glasses, courtesy of Carlo Manzi 116 ANGELO PENNETTA
- 123. Consider the richtapestry of life... and then Prada’s proposal of collaged brocade, print, argyle, belts and bags Lily wears cloqué coat, £4,875. Faille skirt, £2,560. Leather belt, £355. Velvet and leather bag, £1,190. Lace-up socks, £225. Patent-leather heels, £615. Jean wears cloqué shirt, £990. Faille skirt, £2,395. Leather belt, £355. Leather bag, £1,780. Argyle socks, £290. Patent-leather heels, £615. All Prada. Special thanks to the Whitney Museum of American Art (Whitney.org), Mr Fong’s (40 Market Street), Flash Factory (Flashfactoryny.com) and Kappo Masa (Kappomasanyc.com). For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information 117
- 124. Alicia Vikander isas famous for her reserve as she is for her extraordinary drive but, as Tom Lamont discovers, the actress’s desire to change the world sits alongside a wicked sense of humour Photographs by Alasdair McLellan. Styled by Kate Phelan ood thing that the financiers and insurers of Alicia Vikander’s next few films can’t see this. On a rented pedal bike, the actress negotiates three-lane traffic in the South of France. With a Louis Vuitton handbag in her front basket and a phone in her right hand, she half-watches the road,while reading a 3G map.No helmet – the 27-year-old Swede’schestnuthair flutters around her shoulders, whooshed sideways now and then by overtaking trucks. At the traffic lights, she is forced into a thicket of growling Citroëns. Unquestionably, this actress is gutsy – witnessherfierce,uninhibitedperformance in The Danish Girl, which won her best supporting actress at the Academy Awards in February – but she is not suicidal. She wobbles her bike to the nearest patch of pavement.“Let’s walk for a while,”she says. We’re exploring Toulon, a port on the Mediterranean where Vikander is making a new film, Submergence, about marine scientists.The cast has been given some time off today and Vikander has chosen to spend it biking with Vogue. It is late April, a fortnight since she was shot for this magazine’s cover on a beach in the south-east of England. Over the 14 days since then, Vikander has managed to cram in trips to Stockholm to celebrate a friend’s 30th, and to Oslo where her boyfriend, the actor Michael Fassbender, is filming a movie. She swung through Berlin (shooting prep for Submergence) then Normandy (rehearsal with co-star James McAvoy) and landed in Toulon a few days ago – disembarking, right away, to film boat scenes on the Med. I feel tired just hearing that, I tell her. “I was speaking to my dad on the phone about it this morning,”Vikander says.“He said, ‘You’re a stabil flicka’, and I got what he meant. It’s a Swedish phrase – like a girl who loves horses. A stablegirl. My dad said to me,‘You’re living a lot.But,actually, when you get back to work on set, that’s when you feel the most relaxed. You’re in your stable.’” Does it strike her there is something a little mournful about being a stabil flicka? “I don’t think so,” Vikander answers briskly, not offended but not agreeing with the interpretation either. “Working makes me happy, “The last year was pretty tough. Being public. I think that’s why I like working. I like that stillness” Navy cashmere coat, £3,200. Black silk shirt, £1,200. Both Dior. Straw hat, £115, Lock Hatters. Hair: Duffy. Make-up: Lucia Pica. Nails: Jenny Longworth. Production: Ragi Dholakia. Digital artwork: Output g When youWIN AN OSCAR aged 27, what NEXT? NOW YOU USE IT 118 > 122
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- 126. Bottega Veneta’s womanly bustiers havea finely spun allure. An Aran knit and a seafarer’s shrug add a rustic edge This page: charcoal checked wool dress, £2,280. Burgundy bra top, £390. Both Bottega Veneta Opposite:woolcardigan, £55, Aran Sweater Market. Bra top, £310, Bottega Veneta. Wool pencil skirt, £190, APC. Leather belt, £102, J&M Davidson 120 ALASDAIR McLELLAN
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- 128. She unveiled her relationship withMichael Fassbender at the Oscars. “It felt like the right thing. We wanted to sit next to each other, simple as that” Navy and red wool sweater, £585. White poplin shirt, £495. Both Alexander McQueen. Crystal charm ring, £320, Dior Alicia bit her Oscar at one point on the night. “To check it wasn’t made of chocolate” makes me calm.” She acknowledges there’s an element of escapism to this. Academy Awards don’t win themselves and Vikander campaigned as diligently as any other actor to be recognised by her peers. “The last year was pretty tough. Doing more interviews. Events. Being public. I think that’s why I like working. Being here [on set], waking up to work, the same 60 people around you every day on a shoot. I like that stillness.” She’s hardly had a chance to think over the night she won. She recalls what she can, episodes that haven’t been lost to the day’s nerves and adrenaline. Getting ready in her hotel room with friends and family, everyone in dressing gowns (“It felt like my wedding”). The little orange robot from StarWars rolling around the green room.Taking a big troop of pals around the after-parties. Leaving her mobile phone in an Uber cab before she’d had a chance to reply to all the congratulatory texts. Looking down at her Oscar, at one point,and biting it.Biting it?“To check.That it wasn’t made of chocolate or something.” As her father says, she’s a stabil flicka: Vikander was back at work almost immediately.There were reshoots to be done on the new Bourne movie, in which she co-stars with Matt Damon, the fifth in the hugely successful franchise, her first major blockbuster. In the new instalment (Jason Bourne, out this month), Vikander plays a computer specialist – “I tell other people to run,”she says – while Damon does his action thing. Back in the Nineties, he won a career- transforming Oscar himself, when he was exactly Vikander’s age. “He told me what a rush it was. I think his was the best advice. He said, ‘Enjoy it.’” She seems to be today – laughing a lot, smiling a lot, getting tooted at on her bike in caveman-appreciation by passing men in their cars, and finding this a bit crude but at the same time a bit funny, too. She used to be kept awake at night before interviews, she says, tortured and anxious. It can’t have helped that interviewers often wrote her off as guarded, even icy. (A headline on one of her New YorkTimes interviews read: “There’s no easy way to get inside Alicia Vikander’s head”.) Some of this she attributes to a problem of tone. “Being able to be dry in a second language is almost the last thing you learn,” she admits. Her English is excellent now.There are a few endearing slips MATTWEARSSHIRTMARGARETHOWELL.BRACES,DUNHILL 122 ALASDAIR McLELLAN > 126
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- 131. He said, shesaid: play the man in Margaret Howell’s snappy pinstripes or invite a tender caress in Céline’s wavy double- faced dress Opposite: pinstripe wool jacket, £725. Poplin shirt, £315. Both Margaret Howell. This page: wool-jersey dress, from £2,140, Céline. Wool poloneck, £79, Winser London 125ALASDAIR McLELLAN
- 132. Director Joe Wrightfound her “a relentless perfectionist… I do think, one day, we will all be working for Alicia” Turn the tide: repair to Ralph Lauren’s boyish herringbone when sea winds begin to whistle Olive wool herringbone jacket, £2,265. Taupe silk shirt, £810. Taupe cashmere sweater, £900. All Ralph Lauren Collection (“Moving from one to B”), but she has her dryness down and is free in her use of the F- word. She considers her answers to questions carefully, and has clearly drawn boundaries about what she will and won’t discuss. But she’s easy company. Clever and quick with an anecdote. At times a bit of a goof. Whilewebikearound,Vikandercheerfully admits that as a 15-year-old she bought and prized a fake Louis Vuitton bag – she confessed as much to artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière, she says, when she became the official face of the brand last May. When I ask about what she’s wearing today, she deadpans a red-carpet run-down of her outfit (T-shirt by the Swedish-American label Ragdoll, trainers by Nike, jeans unknown), including a namecheck for her underpants by French supermarket Casino. She has a lovely, honking, unselfconscious laugh and dispenses it liberally, for instance when we freewheel down a gravel path and find ourselves on a beach full of topless sunbathers. “You set this up,” she accuses, grinning, “because of my Swedish heritage.” Vikander was raised in Gothenburg, and had an unconventional childhood. Her mother, a stage actress, separated from her father, a psychiatrist, when she was very young. Vikander was raised between their houses – an only child when she was with her mother,the middle sister in an enormous brood at her father’s house. “My dad has childrenbyfourdifferentmothers,”Vikander explains, matter-of-factly. “The youngest is 15 now.”You’d expect this might have been a distressing situation but Vikander insists not. Always close to both her parents, she says they remain “very good friends”. Vikander tells a story about being interviewed, as a teenager, for a Swedish documentary about children of divorce. After she told her story, she recalls, the producer said they couldn’t use it. You weren’t traumatised enough? “Exactly! I thought, ‘But wouldn’t it be good for other teenagers to hear someone talk about it in a positive way?’” Transitioning between the two childhood arrangements – life with her mother an intimate two-hander; with her father a more raucous ensemble piece – proved a kind of training for Vikander’s later career, where she might work for weeks on closed, intense sets then suddenly be asked to wow in public settings. I noticed at Vogue’s shoot how > 126 ALASDAIR McLELLAN
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- 134. crisply Vikander couldadjust from her role as model (precise, pliant, aware of the light) to a floppier, much younger presence in the dressing room. Vikander learnt tenacity as a ballet dancer, doing 10 years until the age of 18 at the Royal Swedish Ballet School. She switched from dancing to acting because of what she calls “burn”. She stopped burning for ballet. Instead, at 20, she got the lead in a Swedish film called Pure, an intense coming-of- age drama that asked of Vikander lots of naked emotion (some nakedness, too).The film won her a major award in Sweden. Burning to keep acting, she moved to London and auditioned for English-speaking roles. Friends describe Vikander in this period as determined. “Her work ethic was insane,” say Aino Jawo and Caroline Hjelt, known now as the electropop band Icona Pop. Jawo and Hjelt met Vikander in Sweden, and later shared a flat with her in Notting Hill. This was around 2011. While Jawo and Hjelt went out, Vikander paced her room for hours, practising accents. “She was so focused. We were like, ‘You need to sleep!’” Vikander, for her part, does not remember this as an especially happy time. It took her years to develop any real affection for London. (She is now settled in north London where she has just bought a new home.) She felt lonely and missed her friends back in Sweden. “I worried about them still being there when I went back.” Things have got better, she says, now that “the world is smaller, with Skype, with Facetime”. But as for returning? She hasn’t had much opportunity. “I’ve planned two or three times to have chunks of time off – and then a project comes along.” In 2011, Vikander was cast by Joe Wright in his adaptation of Anna Karenina. “She seemed very young, very bright,” the director remembers. “A relentless perfectionist.”That same year she was in a Danish period drama, an exquisite film called A Royal Affair that was nominated for best foreign language film at the Oscars. (A very different night out at the Awards, as Vikander recalls: “A lot of dancing, a lot of alcohol and, oh my god, yeah, a lot of unfiltered cigarettes.”) She made Testament of Youth, based on Vera Brittain’s memoir, and appeared in Guy Ritchie’s The Man From U.N.C.L.E. reboot. In 2015, she was adoringly reviewed in Alex Garland’s Ex Machina, a sci-fi film set in the near future. She played Ava, a robot with advanced artificial intelligence. In one scene, Ava confesses a fear that if she does not pass certain tests, does not impress people, she would simply be switched off. Is that ever what it feels like, I ask Vikander – this job? “You have the fear,” she admits. “Maybe that’s why I keep on working. Because it will stop one day.” In deciding which films she’ll make, Vikander says she’s steered by two influential forces. Her parents’ opinion (she emails them scripts) and her gut. These two authorities don’t always pull together. In 2014, Vikanderauditioned with the director Tom Hooper for a part in The Danish Girl. She would play Gerda Wegener, wife of Einar Wegener (Eddie Redmayne), the first known person to undergo gender confirmation surgery. The part was hers if she wanted it. But there was another film in the offing – The Light Between Oceans, a drama about a pair of lighthouse- keepers,directedbyDerekCianfrance. Michael Fassbender had signed on. “There was a time when I wasn’t going to be able to do both,”Vikander recalls. At the last moment there was a fortuitous scheduling change. The two films were key to her life as it is now. The Danish Girl won her the Oscar. And it was during filming on The Light Between Oceans that she began a relationship with Fassbender. The 39-year-old Irishman has a not insubstantial list of exes and his relationship with Vikander generated plenty of curiosity when word spread about it in late 2014. In spring 2015, about six months after filming wrapped on A Light Between Oceans, the New York Times asked Vikander if the pair were a couple. She would not confirm or deny. In interview after interview, the same refusal. But in February, Vikander and Fassbender sat next to each other at the Oscars. Even snatched a quick kiss when she won. Did that seem like an unravelling of a lot of careful discretion, I ask, to choose to sit next to each other at the ceremony? “No!” She laughs. “That wasn’t even a question. It felt like the right thing. We wanted to sit next to eachother,simpleasthat.Wewouldn’t have gone there and not sat together.” It’s lunchtime: we park our bikes at a restaurant on the shore. Vikander suggests a seafood platter to share and we’re brought an enormous tray of oysters and prawns and sea snails. A pile of shells and skins amass as we tear through it. I ask her, what next? When you’ve got your Oscar at 27, what else is there? Vikander says, “Now you use it.” She talks about a production company she’s launching called Vikarious; one of its goals is to make films with female leads and female creatives. In the first production on its slate, a drama about two sisters called Euphoria, she’ll co-star alongside Eva Green; the director and screenwriter is Lisa Langseth, who cast Vikander in that early Swedish film, Pure. In only a few years working in the Swedish film industry, Vikander points out, she was in three films directed by women. Since Anna Karenina launched her on English- language cinema, she’s made 11 films – all by men. In some she didn’t have a single scene with another woman. Herintentionisto“changetheculture. That’s the biggest gift I’ve been given, and I think I can make a difference with it.” (Wright, when he hears this, says: “I do think one day we’ll all be working for Alicia.”) Meantime, she’s been cast as Lara Croft in a new Tomb Raider film – that one, sadly, not to be directed by a woman. She still has a culture to change. After lunch, we cycle back in the direction of the hire shop. There are a few wrong turnings, lots of tooting cars, an ascent up a coastal hill – which Vikander tackles, I notice, while maintaining a perfectly straight-backed carriage. There’s one last hairy moment, at a final crossroads, when we accidentally steer our bikes into the path of a moving bus. Only one of us opts to brake and reverse inelegantly to safety. The other wheels on forward, nerveless and serene. When I finally catch up with Vikander she’s already back at the shop, dismounting, propping her bike on its stand, waiting with a patient smile. She has a lovely, honking laugh and dispenses it liberally, such as when we find ourselves on a beach full of topless sunbathers 128 ALASDAIR McLELLAN
- 135. “Matt Damon gave methe best advice after winning an Oscar. He told me what a rush it was. He said, ‘Just enjoy it’” Grey ribbed wool sweater, £210, Carven. White cotton shirt, £390, Creatures of the Wind, at Farfetch.com. Black pleated wool/silk skirt, £620, Alexander McQueen. Hat, as before. For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information 129 Watch our exclusive film with Alicia Vikander, only on Vogue.co.uk/voguevideo
- 136. This season, thefinishing touches may be in perfect harmony with ready-to-wear but that doesn’t mean they don’t possess the power to start a conversation Photographs by Christian MacDonald. Styling by Verity Parker Excess baggage 130
- 137. Note this new, goldenratio: a trio of flame- yellow accents make denim blue a blazing triumph Opposite: wool tank top, £320. Denim skirt, £645. Both Miu Miu. Suede belt, £85, LK Bennett. Leather boots, from a selection, Prada. Orange leather bag, £4,010, Hermès. Navy leather bag, £1,375, Loewe. Yellow studded leather bag, £1,965, JW Anderson. Jewellery, throughout, model’s own Check yo self: Louis Vuitton’s trapper hat flips a hip-hop take on heritage style This page: olive checked wool sweater, £595, Joseph. Monogrammed canvas- and-sheepskin hat, £850, Louis Vuitton. Burnt-red leather bag, from £1,320, Céline. Hair: Yannick d’Is. Make-up: Lauren Parsons. Nails: Jenny Longworth. Set design: Raphael Bliss. Digital artwork: D Touch. Model: Binx Walton 131
- 138. Maple-hued camel hair demands asofter, seasonal tact. What’s better than Prada’s autumnal pairing? Camel-hair coat, £1,565, Max Mara. Leather trousers, £2,045, Chloé. Leather belt, from a selection, Altuzarra. Leather loafers, from a selection, Loewe. Velvet bag, £1,190, Prada. Crocodile bag, from £14,450, Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. Sunglasses, £255, Gucci, at Harvey Nichols 132 CHRISTIAN MACDONALD
- 139. Stand to attention. Play upthe tough-girl side of a seductive leather dress with Valentino’s bovver boots and gleaming artillery bag Leather and lace dress, £1,345. Leather gloves, from a selection. Both Christopher Kane. Leather belt, to order, Rodarte. Studded leather bag, £1,525. Leather boots, £1,165. Both Valentino Garavani. Sailor hat, £225, Prada 133
- 140. When uptown gloss ismade with urban streets in mind: come rain or shine, a slick wipe-clean finish will cover all eventualities Cotton tunic, £1,160, Marni. Vinyl trousers, £430, Isabel Marant. Leather boots, £1,110, Hermès. Black soft- leather bag, from £1,400, Céline. Black patent-leather bag, £700, Isa Arfen. Tri-colour leather bag, £1,050, Louis Vuitton 134
- 141. Just one rule whenit comes to Balenciaga’s chained bags: from a smart fold-over style to an envelope carryall, wear them cross-body while on the go Black patent-leather trench coat, from £4,545. Black vinyl trousers, from £530. Both Versace. Black leather lace-ups, £970, Calvin Klein Collection. Large black leather bag, £1,425. Black leather bag with chain strap, £1,315. Both Balenciaga. Beauty note: a military crop adds a tough-girl urban accent to any outfit. Keep hair lustrous with Pantene Repair & Protect Dry Oil with Vitamin E, £7 135CHRISTIAN MACDONALD
- 142. Tobacco hues are smokingnow: Bottega Veneta’s neat snakeskin bag turns them from utilitarian to ultra-luxe Cotton trench coat, £1,795, Joseph. Silk-crêpe jumpsuit, £3,680, Hermès. Mohair/cashmere sweater, £425. Wool bustier, £245. Both Pringle of Scotland. Snakeskin bag, £18,720, Bottega Veneta. Beauty note: the devil is in the detail. Keep skin fresh with an oh-so-subtle glow. Try Diorskin Nude Shimmer Instant Illuminating Powder, £39, on cheekbones 136
- 143. A metallic glaze –whether it be on lug-soled lace- ups or Proenza Schouler’s pouch – ignites trad tweed with a 21st-century spin Grey wool coat, £975, Isabel Marant. Metallic laminated leather coat, £3,740. Matching skirt, £1,670. Both Jil Sander. Metallic leather boots, £1,000, Louis Vuitton. Silver leather bag, £1,375, Proenza Schouler. Black leather bag, £1,195, Alexander McQueen. For stockists, all pages, see Vogue Information 137CHRISTIAN MACDONALD
- 144. An unprecedented invitation tospy on royalty… from left, Ben Miles as Peter Townsend; Vanessa Kirby, wearing a tulle gown by Zuhair Murad Couture, as Princess Margaret; Claire Foy, in a beaded evening dress by Elie Saab Haute Couture, as the Queen; and Matt Smith as Prince Philip. They are photographed at Wrotham Park, one of the locations for The Crown. Hair: Daniel Hersheson. Make-up: Florrie White. Flowers: Wild At Heart. Sittings editor: Fiona Golfar The Crown – Peter Morgan’s lavish new drama – focuses on the Queen’s early reign. As the cast gather in fashions that evoke the era, Juliet Nicolson explores our fascination with the royal family and asks: are they really so different to the rest of us? Photographs by Jason Bell. Styling by Verity Parker 138
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- 146. I n 1994, theRoyal Court Theatre in Sloane Square staged a play based on Sue Townsend’s novel The Queen and I, in which the Queen had been deposed and was living with her family in a council flat. In the middle of one matinée performance there was a bomb scare, and audience and cast (still in full costume) were evacuated into the square. Passengers on top of circling double-decker buses were riveted but disconcerted to see the Queen, Prince Phillip, Prince Charles and Diana, Princess of Wales standing about, drawing heavily on cigarettes, apparently at a loss as to what to do on a sunny Wednesday afternoon. Indeed, from the point that Victorian writer Walter Bagehot identified the mystique of the royal family as the key element of their enduring appeal, the old belief persisted that if daylight shone on to the elusive regal magic, the ethereal spell would be broken. Since Bagehot, however, the brightest arc lamps – or rather tell-all books, prime-time interviews and excruciating taped phone conversations – have succeeded in illuminating some of the monarchy’s most guarded secrets. And yet, we remain infatuated. What does the Queen carry in her Launer handbag? Where can we buy the Duchess of Cambridge’s Breton tops? Interest in the royal family is as British as an addiction to soaps and complaining about the weather. And The Crown, a new, meticulously researched 10- part show (with further series in the planning) commissioned by Netflix, will only fuel the fire of our infatuation. Spanning the years from Princess Elizabeth’s wedding in 1947 to the Suez Crisis in 1956, writer Peter Morgan (The Audience and The Queen) and director Stephen Daldry (The Audience) offer us an unprecedented invitation to spy on royalty and watch, rapt by the very ordinariness of this extraordinary family. And for Morgan, that is the Windsors’ enduring appeal; at some level, we all face the equivalent of the Queen’s Tupperware-versus- orb-and-sceptre polarity. “The life we ideally want to lead and the compromises we have to make allows usalltoconnectwiththepredicament faced by Elizabeth Windsor and Elizabeth Regina,” he says. The Crown examines this tension: as the film opens, George VI is observing the most private of personal morning rituals. But his brushing, scraping and shaving is soon interrupted by a coughing fit and, bent double, he hurls himself over the loo as the camera pans into a pool of blood. The king, a representative and a symbol, is shown with graphic clarity to be mortal. Indeed, the series keeps an unwavering eye on the royal family’s physical vulnerability. From a gruesome operation to remove the king’s lung to the distress of a daughter witnessing the embalming of her father’s body, Morgan gets up close and very personal with a family we have long gazed at on their pedestal. But The Crown has all the glittering settings, too. Mostly shot on location inside the ancestral seats of England’s grandest families – Hatfield House, Lancaster House, Loseley Park, Wrotham Park, Langleybury, Wilton House, Englefield – their silk wallpapers and coroneted cornices provide opulent credibility. The many scenes played out in the royal family’s private quarters in Buckingham Palace, built on sets in Elstree Film Studios, are not just enthralling for the way they look, but for the logistical problems of being royal that they highlight – it is practically impossible to get hold of the Queen directly on the telephone, for example, because of a complicated switchboard system. Prince Philip is left fuming when he is denied permission for a direct line. The production designer, Martin Childs, and the art director, Mark Raggett, who previously worked together on Shakespeare in Love, went on research trips to Buckingham Palace and forensically analysed pictures and film footage for accuracy. The result resounds with authenticity. For all the privilege, for all the sumptuous gowns and elegant suits (at which The Crown excels, thanks to the skill of Michele Clapton, who also designs the costumes for Game of Thrones), the story of a princess becoming a queen is in some ways personally devastating. Rarely has the transition from (relatively) carefree young married woman to the wearer of a gravity-challenging crown seemed so unenviable, so life- sentencing. Claire Foy portrays Princess Elizabeth’s charm and tenacity as lace lined with marble. Demonstrably in love with her husband and devoted to their two young children, her prelapsarian freedom seems all the more precious for its sudden curtailment. As Queen Mary greets her newly acceded > 140 The series gets up close and very personal with a family we have long gazed at on their pedestal Ben Miles (Peter Townsend) and Matt Smith (Prince Philip) with Greg Wise as Louis Mountbatten PREVIOUSPAGES:BENWEARSSUIT,FAVOURBROOK.SHIRTANDBOWTIE,OLIVERBROWN.SHOES,LUDWIGREITER.VANESSAWEARSDRESS,ZUHAIRMURADCOUTURE.CLAIREWEARSDRESS,ELIE SAABHAUTECOUTURE.MATTWEARSSUIT,KILGOUR.SHIRTANDBOWTIE,HUNTSMAN.SHOES,CHURCH’S.THISPAGE:BENANDMATT,ASBEFORE.GREGWEARSSUIT,SHIRTANDBOWTIE,ALLOLIVER BROWN.OPPOSITE:LIAWEARSTROUSERSUIT,GUCCI.BROOCH,MEROLA.SHOES,GIANVITOROSSI.ALEXWEARSSUIT,SHIRTANDTIE,ALLHUNTSMAN.SHOES,LUDWIGREITER
- 147. Lia Williams – ina Gucci trousersuit – and Alex Jennings as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor 141
- 148. She is sonearly us, doing something we all do, with merely the sparkle of a diamond between us… Vanessa Kirby captures the young Princess Margaret’s joie de vivre in a striped silk dress by Altuzarra and Céline shoes JASON BELL142 THISPAGE:VANESSAWEARSDRESS,ALTUZARRA.EARRINGS,MEROLA.SHOES,CELINE.OPPOSITE:CLAIREWEARSJACKETANDSKIRT,CHANELHAUTECOUTURE. BLOUSE,DOLCE&GABBANA,ATNET-A-PORTER.COM.SHOES,MANOLOBLAHNIK.BROOCH,SJPHILLIPS.EARRINGS,MEROLA
- 149. granddaughter, curtseying deeplyto her for the first time,the audible creak of ageing knees makes you wince. In fact, before Eileen Atkins – who here plays Queen Mary – went to a reception at Buckingham Palace, she had a “take-it-or-leave-it approach to the monarchy”, she confesses. And then she met the actual Queen. “Something hit me as I walked through that door,” she says, explaining how she experienced first hand what the series conveys so powerfully. “I was suddenly aware that being royal is no privilege. They are constantly on, they cannot ever slip off theirshoesinpublic.Celebrities choose fame. Royals have it thrust on them.” S o much of what we feel for the royal family is bound up with our admiration for the Queen and the way in which she has devoted her life to a role that she neither asked for, nor knew would be hers, until her uncle’s dramatic abdication when she was just 10 years old. On her 21st birthday she made a moving speech committing herself to her country, the Commonwealth and her subjects, “whether my life be short or long”. Five years later, in 1952, she acceded to the throne, her youth, beauty and innocence appealing to a vulnerable population still subject to rationing, the grief and hardship of the Second World War receding but not yet a decade behind them. Now this country’s longest-serving monarch with 64 years on the throne, as the integrity of politicians,bankers,churchmen and the media have at times crumbled around her, the Queen has remained true to that duty she promised all those years ago. Constancy has defined her, even when her children’s marriages collapsed, her favourite home was on fire, her mother and sister died within six weeks of each other, and even now, when she is 90 years old. Paying tribute on her 90th birthday, David Cameron said, “Her Majesty has been steadfast, a rock of strength for our nation, for our Commonwealth and, on so many occasions, for the whole world.” Most telling, perhaps, are the opinion polls that have delivered a steady approval score for the monarch of not less than 70 per cent throughout her reign. And a 2015 YouGov poll revealed that more than six in 10 people believe Britain will still have a monarch in 100 years’ time. The future of the royal family has not always looked so sunny.When the wireless was the dominant medium, apart from the sound of George VI’s humiliating stammer, the public image of royalty was relatively controllable. But the zoom lens kick-started the erosion of the mystique. In 1936, the hand of Wallis Simpson, a twice-married woman, was photographed resting on the forearm of the king. In 1952, Princess Margaret was caught on camera picking fluff off the coat of her father’s equerry, a divorcee and therefore romantically off-limits for a princess. A generation later, pictures of a bikini-clad Princess of Wales sunbathing while pregnant were splashed across the papers. More recently, images of Prince Harry “cavorting” in a Las Vegas swimming pool did a roaring trade for the press. The royal family has sometimes suffered from a shaky relationship with the media. And yet, as the late Princess of Wales realised, if the popularity of the royal family was to survive, it was important to step out from behind their crenellated walls and become more available to us, more human. The Queen only fully realised the importance of this insight immediately after Diana, Princess of Wales’s death. Never was her hesitancy as damaging as when she remained with her family far away up in Balmoral rather than returning to join the thousands of her grieving subjects in the capital. If ever there was a moment when her position on the throne was unsteady, this was it. But it is to her credit that,at the 11th hour, she returned to London and rescued the situation with an emotional and deeply personal televised address to the nation. The dual demands for privacy and exposure present a precarious tightrope on which the royal family must walk. Public enjoyment versus public expectation can pull in conflicting directions. Royal scandals sell papers, they spark national debate, and they provide a subject on which everyone has a view. But we also look to the monarchy to represent us as a nation, to reflect who we are and what we stand for on the international stage, to fly the flag for our Britishness – however nebulous a concept that is. We beam with pride at Prince Harry’s enterprise and his own excitement at the success of his Invictus Games; we celebrate the chicness of the Duchess of Cambridge, a real-life Cinderella who started life as “one of us” and was transformed into a princess before > “We project ideal values on to the royal family… We need someone to look up to in a secular age” 143 Claire Foy as Princess Elizabeth in Chanel Haute Couture
- 150. our eyes; andwe marvel at the work ethic of the Queen. However, too much reality, while tempting, is also unsettling. As the distinguished constitutional historian Vernon Bogdanor explains, “We project ideal values on to the royal family that we would like to have ourselves. We need someone to look up to in a secular age.” We feel amused as well as strangely guilty knowing that the Queen and Prince Philip, when alone in Buckingham Palace and without royal engagements, like nothing better than to tuck into their Eggs Drumkilbo from lap trays as they watch the cricket on television. And take Snowdon’s delightful photograph of a smiling Princess Margaret lying in the bath, wearing nothing but an enormous tiara. She is so nearly us, doing something we all do, with merely the sparkle of a diamond between us. On his way to sign the abdication papers in 1936, Edward VIII’s car passed Windsor Castle. “How solid, secure and changeless it was,” he remembered years later, “something left over from the Middle Ages.” He wrote this wistfully, maybe, but also with relief at being released from a predicament that had come to resemble a trap. The role he rejected was one of influence but also impotence, an ability to push at the boundaries while knowing the boundaries would always remain in place.The monarchical cage, however gilded, survived him to house another incumbent and her family, into which the public continues to stare in fascination, to marvel at, often to admire but rarely to envy. “The Crown” will be available on Netflix in November. “A House Full of Daughters”, by Juliet Nicolson, is published by Chatto & Windus at £16.99 We feel amused as well as guilty knowing that the Queen and Prince Philip tuck into Eggs Drumkilbo from lap trays 144
- 151. “Being royal isno privilege,” says Eileen Atkins, centre, as Queen Mary, wearing a Ralph Russo coat, with Victoria Hamilton (the Queen Mother), seen here in an Alberta Ferretti evening dress, and Claire Foy (the Queen) in a vintage feather jacket from Mairead Lewin and pearl and diamond Chopard earrings. “They are constantly on, they cannot ever slip off their shoes in public” VICTORIAWEARSDRESS,ALBERTAFERRETTILIMITEDEDITION.JACKET,VINTAGE.EARRINGS,MEROLA.NECKLACE,MIKIMOTO.RINGS,HEROWN.EILEENWEARSCOAT,RALPHRUSSO.DRESS,VINTAGE. EARRINGS,KENNETHJAYLANE.BRACELET,MEROLA.CLAIREWEARSJACKET,MAIREADLEWINVINTAGE.BLOUSE,ELIZABETHAVEYARCHIVE.SKIRT,THEWEDDINGCLUB.EARRINGS,CHOPARD JASON BELL 145
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- 153. Rarely has thetransition from carefree young married woman to the wearer of a gravity- challenging crown seemed so unenviable, so life-sentencing… The relationship between Elizabeth and Philip forms the emotional heart of The Crown. Opposite: Claire Foy wears a Lanvin skirt suit and Church’s brogues. This page: Claire wears a pleated silk dress by Schiaparelli Haute Couture and shoes by Rayne, shoemakers to Queen Mary, the Queen Mother and the Queen JASON BELL 147
- 154. EternalSUNSHINEJennifer Meyer’s playful,timeless pieces have become a red-carpet favourite. Fiona Golfar talks to Hollywood’s delightfully down-to-earth jeweller of choice Photographs by Pamela Hanson. Styling by Tania Fares Jennifer Meyer on the beach in Malibu, near where she grew up. She wears her own jewellery designs. Hair: Derek Yuen. Make-up: Jo Strettell. Sittings editor: Fiona Golfar. Production: Dana Brockman. With thanks to Jillian Cainghug and Taylor Erickson 148
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- 156. “Barbra Streisand woulddo my make-up for me,” recounts Jen, “but she would never sing, however much we begged!” L os Angeles is a strange place, full of people who aren’t sure. Aspiring actors arrive on buses; writers, producers and directors spend their careers watching their backs, wondering who the new kid in town is going to be. Not so Jennifer Meyer. She knows exactly who she is and she’s just fine with it. Married to actor Tobey Maguire, the 39-year-old jewellery designer is famed for her delicate, layer-and-leave-on pieces which fly out of Net-a-Porter and Barneys with astonishing alacrity, straight on to the limbs of A-listers and cool creatives. Jen, as her friends call her, is a child of Hollywood. Her father Ron – who dropped out of school as a teenager to join the Marines – was the co-founder of CAA, one of the most powerful talent agencies in the world. He was agent to, among others, Tom Cruise and Goldie Hawn. Ron went on to become vice chairman of NBC Universal (Universal Studios’ parent company). “Under his shirt he is covered in tattoos – many of them pictures drawn by his grandchildren – from neck to waist,” Jen confides. Her mother Ellen, now a television producer, was in the industry, too; a very successful casting agent who hired talent for The Golden Girls, one of America’s biggest television shows. I first meet Jen at Craig’s, a fashionable LA restaurant with the prerequisite paparazzi cluster hovering outside and a maître d’ who wouldn’t give you a second glance if you weren’t a somebody. Jen, though, arrives to an effusive welcome. She is wearing a little black-and-white polka-dot dress by her good friend Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent, a sandy suede Jen bag (by the same label) slung over her shoulder (“How to get a bag by Hedi named after you? Just keep asking!”) and a pair of Isabel Marant ankle boots. She looks terrific, in that understated LA way, as she makes her way to the table, greeting people en route. Slim, with glowing golden skin, she’s gorgeous. Her long hair is parted in the centre and pulled back from her engagingly open face in a ponytail. She’s warm, too, and ballsy: there’s something about her that reminds me of a young Barbra Streisand; maybe not altogether surprising, given that Streisand was a neighbour and regular guest at the family’s Malibu home during most of Jen’s childhood. “She would do my make- up for me,” recounts Jen as we eat burgers (no buns) and sip whiskey sours, “but she would never sing, however much we begged!” As we talk, Meyer constantly reaches out – her arm is covered in a cluster of thin gold hoops, each studded with a tiny diamond – to touch my arm. Unusually perhaps, for someone in Hollywood, she possesses none of the guardedness of someone in the celebrity bubble. Despite having everything to protect, she is eager to share her own stories, talking about her family and delightedly showing me pictures of her and Tobey’s children: Ruby, who is nine, and seven-year-old Otis. Perhaps this relative normality comes from her father, whom she credits with giving her a strict work ethic. “Not working was never an option,” she states. “I would work every summer holiday from the age of 14. It was what was expected.” Her creativity, she says, comes from her late grandmother Edith, an enamellist.“She came to America from Germany as a Jewish refugee,” Jen says. “She became an artist and would sell her work to passengers on cruise ships.” As a child, Meyer remembers visiting her in her “tiny” apartment in Santa Monica. “There was a kiln in her kitchen and Mason jars full of pigments. I would take a piece of wire and she would say, ‘What shall we make?’ I would always say, ‘A necklace.’” Jen’s inclusive nostalgia is evident throughout her eponymous jewellery collection. Bestsellers include fine chain necklaces featuring slim gold > Above: Jennifer with Kate Hudson, her childhood best friend, in February. Top right: the jewellery designer in her studio. Right: with her father, Ron Meyer, in March. Far right: Jennifer’s armful of bangles. Below: selfies with Nicole Richie during a lunch party at Ron’s house in Malibu 150
- 157. Top: from left,friends Nicole Richie, Jennifer Meyer, Emily Ward, Sarah Foster, Kelly Sawyer, Eric Buterbaugh, Rachel Zoe and Erin Foster – all with successful careers in their own right – gather for a group shot at Jennifer’s father’s house. Above: Jennifer Meyer and Dasha Zhukova, April 2014. Below: Jennifer with her husband, Tobey Maguire, in February PAMELA HANSON GETTY.GARDENANDGROUPSHOT:JENNIFERWEARSDRESS,DONDUP. STUDIOSHOT:DRESS,PHILOSOPHYBYLORENZOSERAFINI From top: gold nameplate necklace, to order. Turquoise earrings, £4,915. Wishbone necklace, £1,600. All Jennifer Meyer, at Net-a-Porter.com 151
- 158. Jennifer Meyer, photographed at theBeverly Hills Hotel. Her sneakers are from a collection she created in collaboration with Superga earlier this year, available at Barneys.com DRESS,DUROOLOWU 152
- 159. bars with children’sbirth dates spelt out in tiny diamonds. Others bear phrases such as “Love you”, “Empower”, “BFF”. Wishbones, lapis lazuli, diamond evil eyes and hearts made of turquoise, mother-of- pearl and onyx are all signatures, too. Jen is a woman’s woman. She confesses she likes few things more than drinking tequila, listening to hip-hop and dancing with her faithful “squad” of Hollywood friends, including Kate Hudson, Jennifer Aniston, Nicole Richie and Courteney Cox. They all support her wholeheartedly, acting as unofficial ambassadors and wearing her creations to premieres and charity events. I t would be easy to imagine that,with her connections, Jen could spend her life like this; attending A-list functions with her movie- star husband or holidaying with friends on super- yachts in St Barths (Instagram records her partying with Karlie, Dasha et al). Not so. “It’s important for me to recognise my own privilege and try to actively support those who’ve not had my good fortune,” she says. Indeed, she and her family are deeply involved in her friend Kelly Sawyer’s Baby2Baby charity, which provides children from low-income families with nappies, clothing and other necessities. After studying child psychology at Syracuse University in New York State, she remembers thinking she could take a few months to just hang out. “I was in my car and the phone rang,” she recalls with a broad smile on her face. “It was my dad. He said, ‘I’m going to be really clear.You have two more weeks of vacation and then you’ve got to start your life. You can live with me rent-free, but I don’t know how you’re going to drive a car, because you’re not going to have money for gas, and I don’t know how many times your friends are going to pay for your dinner,but I’m not giving you money for food. You will not get one cent from me.’ And then I knew that, ‘OK, this is the real world,’ and I had to start making money.” Actress Kate Hudson grew up near Meyer and went to school with her in Malibu. She also recollects the strong morals that shaped her friend’s upbringing. “The Meyers were the greatest family, and in LA that’s saying a lot,” she tells me breathlessly on the phone because, it transpires, she is multi-tasking, striding out on her elliptical trainer. “Jen had real values. We both had parents who were self-made, who believed in hard work and so we were raised to be worker bees.” Before long, Jen began working at Glamour magazine as beauty and health editor, followed by stints doing PR for Armani and Ralph Lauren. But after falling in love with Tobey in 2003 she began to wonder what her true vocation might be, and she recalls telling him that she wanted to try to make jewellery. “I always knew she was creative, it tapped into her relationship with her grandmother and I knew she had it in her to do whatever she wanted,” says Maguire, clearly proud of his wife. “When she asked if I thought she should ‘try’, I quoted something Yoda said to Luke Skywalker in Star Wars. ‘Do, or do not,’ I said. ‘There is no try.’” And so she did, and it paid off. In 2006 a stylist took some of Meyer’s trademark chic, unobtrusive pieces to show Jennifer Aniston, then filming The Break-Up. Aniston selected a yellow-gold leaf pendant and small leaf earrings to wear on screen. It was her big break. “That was it!” smiles Meyer, who has subsequently become friends with the actress. “I can’t even begin to count how many of those leaves I sold. It was extraordinary.” “At the time of that movie I was turning over a new leaf in my own life,” Aniston tells me with a knowing chuckle, “and that necklace really meant something to me. I think that’s the key to her designs, they are all emotive in some way.” Aniston also has nothing but praise for Meyer the woman. “I love the way she started working when she was a teenager, and wasn’t one of those Hollywood kids, wrapping her car around a telegraph pole,” she says. “I’m wearing two pieces of hers right now that I never take off, and one of them is my wedding band. She made Justin’s [Theroux, Aniston’s husband], too.” Yet it is not easy for a brand to exist on celebrity endorsements alone. Certainly,manyhavefailed.Instagram is a powerful tool for raising awareness (Lady Gaga posted an image of herself wearing a pair of Jen’s diamond stick drops at an award ceremony the day before we met) but the bottom line requires a great product. Jen’s is one of the most successful fine-jewellery lines selling on Net-a- Porter, where she’s been stocked since 2012. In short, she turned her good luck into good business. Also in 2012, she was a runner-up (alongside shoe designer Tabitha Simmons) in the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, which saw her win a mentorship from Diane von Furstenberg – another designer who understands only too well the demands of coming from privilege and making a business successful. Although the mentorship was intended to last just a year, the pair remain close.“She is delightful,” Diane says. “She’s kind, fun, light, very effective and makes what she does appear effortless. I still mentor her and we speak regularly. She meets challenges with enormous strength.” As well as her strength of character, Meyer’s business savvy is what has set her apart in a crowded marketplace. While her female friendships are incredibly important to her, she has managed to cultivate a sense that by wearing her product, you become part of her crowd. Daniella Vitali, senior executive vice president of Barneys New York, agrees. “We’ve been in business together for over 10 years. Jennifer Meyer was one of the first designers to create jewellery around women buying it for themselves,” she says. “She understands that people don’t need an occasion to buy jewellery… it’s about expressing ourselves.” It takes a focused person to juggle a young family, a film-star husband and a successful business, yet Jen seems to do this effortlessly. Except for going to the gym. I ask whether she’ll be paying it a visit after the chocolate pizza we just devoured for dessert. “Naaah,” she hoots. “I’m not so good about exercise!” For which I thank God. Because I was just beginning to think that Jennifer Meyer was perfect. “My dad said, ‘You will not get one cent from me.’ And then I knew that, ‘OK, this is the real world’” PAMELA HANSON 153
- 160. W hen Nicola Adams emergedto greet the crowd at the London 2012 Olympic women’s flyweight boxing final with her neatbraidshiddenunderasoftcap,bouncing gently on the balls of her feet, her flash of a smile was an omen of the ecstatic public cheer that would envelop her. In contrast, her Chinese opponent, Cancan Ren, then the world number one, looked sombre – nervous, even. During the next 15 minutes Ren was repeatedly caught off guard by Adams’s furious flurries, as the tiny Brit, whose nickname is Babyface, battered her foe with a barrage of jabs and punches, dancing around her, legs lightly scissoring back and forth. Only minutes into the second round, Ren’s head snapped back, shock closing over her features as she hit the ground. Babyface had found her target. She finally won with a score of 16-7. When I ask her what she thinks it’s like to be punched full in the face by Nicola Adams, she laughs uproariously. “I don’t know, I haven’t been punched by me,” she says. “I guess if you get caught with a hard punch, it hurts. But you won’t catch me because I don’t like getting hit.” Four years on, her abiding memory of that day is the noise of the 10,000-strong crowd. “They said it was the same decibel level as a jumbo jet taking off. That’s how loud it felt. You couldn’t block it out. So I used it to my advantage; every time they cheered, I was throwing another shot.” The 33-year-old’s voice is low and measured, her Leeds accent lending natural warmth, and her laugh is infectious. Her conversation matches her fighting style – bound in understatement; nothing superfluous. Two weeks before we met, Nicola had sailed through the Olympic 2016 Rio qualifiers in Turkey, outpointing her rivals once again – in flyweight it is not the knock- out punch that wins but a point-scoring system. (And in May, she went on to win the flyweight gold medal at the AIBA World Championships in Kazakhstan.) Now Rio and a second gold medal are in her sights. While the men who triumphed alongside her at London 2012 quit for the professional boxing circuit, Nicola has just kept on breaking records. “I’ve got a lot of goals,” she says simply. “I made history at the Commonwealth Games; it was the first time women’s boxing had been allowed there, so I wanted to take that medal back for England.The European Games was another first for women’s boxing, so I wanted that, too. And Britain has never had a double Olympic boxing champion, male or female, so hopefully I will win gold again in Rio.” > Fighting “Mum was always positive – she told me I could box as good as Muhammad Ali!” Nicola Adams just keeps on breaking records – and now she’s set to win her second Olympic gold. By Emily Sheffield Photographs by Matthew Brookes Nicola Adams’s abiding memory of her London 2012 triumph? The noise of the 10,000-strong crowd. “They said it was the same decibel level in that ring as a jumbo jet taking off.” Hair and make-up: Sarah Mierau. Sittings editor: Florence Arnold NICOLAWEARSJACKET,CHANEL.BRATOP,IVYPARK, ANDSHORTS,FENDI.BOTHATNET-A-PORTER TAL 154
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- 162. If any ofher rivals are hoping for a chink of self-doubt or complacency to emerge, they will be left wanting. Her drive to win and preternatural confidence means that “losing is the last thing I think about.” Her winning streak is innate, she says matter- of-factly, there since she first walked into her local boxing gym, back then the only girl but quickly outstripping the boys. “I just always wanted to win. I don’t think about losing until it happens.” She grins ruefully. “Then I take losing really badly. I lock myself in a room for a day. After that I’m all right.” Does she punch walls? “No, no,” she retorts, “I just sit and contemplate where it went wrong.” N icola and I are sitting in a small meeting room at Sheffield’s English Institute of Sport, adjacent to the practice arena where she trains with the rest of the British boxing team. Framed photographs line the walls, one showing Nicola with the other girls from the 2012 team. On the door is printed: “If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.” Tactical moves are sketched on a whiteboard. Her hands are extraordinarily fine and tapered, her body slim and compact, bright eyes framed by short eyelashes that curl tightly upwards. She is dressed in simple blue Adidas shorts and top, a black cap twisted backwards on her head. Off-duty she admits to wearing Helmut Lang suits, shirts by Phillip Lim, Alexander McQueen T-shirts, high-end trainers and Tod’s brogues. And three years ago she appeared alongside Helen Mirren and Grace Coddington in Annie Leibovitz’s Marks & Spencer campaign. But fashion has little place here in Sheffield because, as with most sporting champions, the moments of high drama and superhuman achievement are reached through relentless training, to which Nicola is devoted. From Monday to Thursday she is away from her new flat in east London, living in communal accommodation with her colleagues in Sheffield – there are about six girls and 20 men – where they rise at dawn every day for a three-mile run. This is followedbyweight-trainingandconditioning (Nicola also chops wood to gain extra upper- arm strength) and a three-hour boxing session in the afternoon, where she usually spars with the men. Evenings involve a few bouts of Playstation:“We’re so tired,we don’t move,” she grimaces. Nor is much cheer provided by her lean, high-protein, low- calorie diet. To make flyweight you have to remain within five per cent of 51kg. “The sacrifices are hard,” she sighs. “You miss christenings, weddings, birthday parties. But then you think about what you’ll achieve.” “This is why she wins,” says her coach of 15 years, Alwyn Belcher. “It’s 4pm, everyone else has gone, but she’s still here. And she will be back tomorrow on Friday when they are at home. Underneath there’s a steel core; she knows what she wants.” “She’s a big-time person,” adds Mike Loosemore, doctor to the British Olympic boxing team. “She always delivers and performs better under pressure. And she’s a good role model for the sport. Even the men look up to her now.” Belcher instructs her to start warming up. “Chin down,” he says, moving her fists, now encased in bright blue gloves, further up to cover her chin, pointing out a small gap a rival could swing a punch through. “Create movement not power,” he adds as they work on a lower swing to an invisible opponent’s belly. “Little bit shorter, more explosive,” he repeats as she punches outwards with tiny,sharpgrunts.Hemirrorshermovements, showing her where she can improve, springing exhaustingly about on his toes. “Can you believe he is 81?” asks Adams as he bounces around her, teasingly crying, “Come on, Rocky!” Above us hang huge prints of British boxing champions – Nicola is the only woman among them. I ask her what her weaknesses are.“I can’t say in case my opponents read this,” she laughs. “They’ll be like, ‘Oh, really?’ They will be looking at videos of how I box to find ways to beat me, so I’ve got to be improving all the time. Every competition, my tactics will be different. It’s like a game of chess – you have to outwit them.” It was watching tapes of Muhammad Ali with her father as a child that first got her hooked on the sport, which was then still closed to girls. When Nicola’s mother Dee needed some form of babysitting, she took her 12-year-old daughter and younger son to the Burmantofts Boxing Club near Leeds. “I went home that night and I couldn’t stop talking about it,” says Nicola. “I kept saying, ‘I’m gonna be Muhammad Ali!’” She returned the next day. Fortunately for Nicola, the coach was undeterred by the male status quo. “He warned me straight away: ‘I won’t treat you any differently from the boys; we’re all boxers here.’” Nicola won her first novice match aged 13 but she didn’t get another fight until she was 17 because female boxing was still a fledgling sport and there simply weren’t any opponents for her to take on (the Amateur Boxing Association only lifted the ban on female competitors in 1998). But Adams was undeterred. Meanwhile, Dee took on multiple jobs to support the cost of Nicola’s training.“Mum was always positive. She told meIcouldboxjustasgoodasAli,”remembers Nicola. Her parents split when she was 14 and she has little contact with her father. “Boxing helped a lot,”she says of that difficult time, “because it was a place to go where I didn’t have to think about anything else.” When Dee fell ill, Nicola had to care for all of them, taking on extra work to bring in money.Their joint sacrifices paid off.In 2001 she was the first female boxer to represent England, subsequently winning European gold and world championship silver twice. In 2009 it was announced that women’s boxing would finally be an Olympic category at London 2012. The timing, however, couldn’t have been worse. Nicola had badly damaged her vertebrae, having tumbled down a flight of stairs. Mike remembers her coming to the final trials for the GB squad in a lot of pain: “Her doctor told me she could have died,” he says. She was barely walking, never mind boxing. So he asked her to perform one technical round. “It was enough, you could see her talent.” After Rio,she wants to consider her future – maybe some television work; children, too. She went public about being bisexual in 2013. “No one’s ever really cared about me being bisexual and I only came out because I had always been out, it’s just the general public didn’t know,” she says. “I’m quite fearless,” she continues.“I’m like, let’s just go out there and do this and see what happens.” Nicola has brought her 2012 medal to show the Vogue team. It feels weighty and impressive. She lifts the back of her shirt to reveal a huge tattoo of a lion running down her taut, muscled back, with a crown on top, and the words “I’m everything I want to be”. “It’s not finished yet. I need to put some new Olympic rings on.” That confident smile again. She’s ready to box. Rio doesn’t know what’s going to hit it. 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- 163. “Every competition, my tacticswill be different. It’s like a game of chess – you have to outwit them” MATTHEW BROOKES 157
- 164. “Luck always comes fromtaking huge risks…” Federico Marchetti in his apartment on Milan’s Piazza Castello. Grooming: Lorenzo Zavatta ParcelFORCECorporate kingpin or man of the people? Federico Marchetti, the self-confessed “geek” behind luxury discount site Yoox, was thrust into the spotlight during its merger with Net-a-Porter. He opens up to Christa D’Souza Photographs by Pierpaolo Ferrari 158
- 165. T here are twofilm characters that Federico Marchetti, CEO of the Yoox Net-a-Porter Group, identifies with. One is Pinocchio, and the other is Hrundi V Bakshi in Blake Edwards’s cult Sixties comedy The Party. If you’re too young to remember it, it’s the one where Peter Sellers plays a klutzy Indian film extra invited to an exclusive Hollywood event by mistake. To illustrate what he means, Marchetti recalls the time he went to visit Francesca Bellettini, the CEO of Saint Laurent, at the company headquarters in Paris.Not realising there was a glass partition between him and reception, he managed to walk straight into it. “Luckily I was fine,” he chuckles. “This is one of the few advantages of having a big nose, I think.” It’s a hot, late-spring afternoon in Milan, and a little over a year since Marchetti triumphantly effected the merger between Yoox, the vast discount luxury-goods site he founded in 2000, and Net-a-Porter, the luxury fashion e-tailer launched by Natalie Massenet in the same year. It’s the middle of the Salone del Mobile, the week the world of furniture design descends on Milan, and Marchetti, 47, has myriad events to attend later today – most notably the one he is co-hosting at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, which was lovingly renovated a few years ago courtesy of Yoox.First,though, he wants to give me a guided tour of the company’s airy, minimalist headquarters in the city’s trendy Naviglio district. A trim, boyish figure in a Hedi Slimane suit, he bounds ahead across a manicured lawn from one building into another, pointing out how nothing really looks that different since the merger, except perhaps for the new signage. “But Yoox to YNAP – it’s not so hard, eh?” We begin on the top floor: an open-plan, democratic situation, I notice, no separate office for the boss, but a canopy of commedia dell’arte-style red velvet curtains around his desk which can be mechanically drawn for privacy. Marchetti may be known as the man who turned the luxury-goods industry on to digital but he has a flair for old-style theatrics, too. His favourite film is 1973’s Amarcord (he and director Fellini both grew up in the province of Emilia Romagna), and last year Yoox co-sponsored its restoration. This year he is in talks with Romeo Gigli and Barnaba Fornasetti (Fornasetti products are big sellers on Yoox) to work on a new production of Don Giovanni. It all fits with the concept he has of himself as an “enter-tailer”, a word he made up and has actually trademarked for future use. “I love the creative side of the job,” he explains in his fluent but heavily accented English. “It’s a good balance for me, it stops me from getting too involved in the corporate side. After the merger I was presented as this tough businessman and, you know, I admit I’m not bad at the corporate stuff, but I don’t think I am only that.” As the new boss of Net-a-Porter, Marchetti is now the global leader in online fashion and, as such, a kind of great white hope in his native country, “which is not exactly known for its ‘unicorn’ companies.” (When YNAP was listed on the Italian stock exchange in October last year, the Borsa was wrapped in mock black grosgrain ribbon, and Italy’s prime minster, Matteo Renzi, tweeted his personal congratulations after the merger was announced.) Here in Britain, though, he’s more of an unknown quantity. Who was this man with a background in end-of-season clothing taking over the world’s most glamorous online boutique, people wanted to know. And what were the implications of that? Would it mean that those exciting purchases of ours from NAP would arrive wrapped in one piece of tissue paper instead of five? No, no, no, it doesn’t mean that at all, Marchetti insists. In no way does he intend to “Yooxify” Net-a-Porter – or, for that matter, “Net-a-Portify” Yoox. And there won’t be a YNAP carrier bag, either. “In fact, the strategy is to keep the storefronts of each culture the same,” he says, the pair of us now standing in the Yoox “museum” on the ground floor, a display of all the company’s milestones since its inception: the year “Yoox” became a crossword clue, the year it penetrated China, and so forth. “It’s simple, you never change anything that is already successful, and both Net-a-Porter and Yoox are each already very successful. What we are going to work on a lot is the… How you call it? Back end? Behind the scenes? Now we are a bigger company we have money to invest in better technology, more logistics centres around the world, more means to serve the customers better. “My biggest quality is actually not technology or logistics,” he carries on, “it is understanding the customer. That’s what I have been doing for the last 16 years. I’m the same as you in the end, and every day I ask myself the same question: If I were a customer, what would I want?” Online > He sees himself as an “enter-tailer”, a word he made up and has actually trademarked 159
- 166. purchases that arrivelate or are the wrong size – these are the kinds of issues that keep him up at night. As he proudly pronounces, after 18 million orders, Yoox now has 99.5 per cent promptness. (Its “back end” is indeed impressive, as anyone who has been to its super-high-tech warehouse in Bologna knows. With its army of giant robots programmed to sort and place items in big black container-loads – Fornasetti plates alongside cashmere sweaters, Yayoi Kusama tea-towels alongside Marc by Marc Jacobs bags – via some brilliantly random yet precise algorithm that ensures no piece of stock ever, ever gets misplaced, it’s a futuristic nightmare – or wet dream, depending on which way you look at it.) “People have this image of Italians working little hours, taking long lunches and being unreliable. But that’s just not true. Take Alitalia. In my experience there has never been one delay, but does anyone know this? Us Italians, we are the worst marketeers of ourselves…” A s anyone who is even remotely connected to the retail industry will tell you, the merger between Yoox and Net-a-Porter, which Marchetti had been gunning for as far back as 2009, wasn’t exactly born out of love. Well, not on Net- a-Porter’s side, anyway, with its founding shareholders incandescent about their stakes being undervalued and Natalie Massenet abruptly resigning just months after Richemont, NAP’s Swiss-based parent company, announced the deal. Because she was such a massively popular figure on both the fashion and social circuits (the lavish, tequila-fuelled 50th birthday party she threw herself in Positano a couple of months before she resigned is still being talked about as the event of the century), and because she had been so much the pulsing heart of the business she’d launched, many found it hard to understand what on earth Richemont was doing. They still find it hard, in fact. “Natalie Massenet started the fashion e-commerce revolution – she built the chocolate factory,”says one industry observer who has known Massenet for years. “In that respect she was like Steve Jobs. It’s widely accepted that without Jobs’s vision Apple is struggling to innovate, to believe in itself. The same is happening at Net-a-Porter. Marchetti hasn’t put the fire in anyone’s belly. He’s just fine-tuning what she created. “The big mistake investors make is believing that they can do without the creative visionary who lured them in the first place,” he continues. “I wouldn’t be surprised if in a couple of years they go begging back to Massenet.” Meanwhiletherearerumoursofdiscontent among the staff. One employee at the Westfield headquarters (who prefers to remain anonymous) describes how tense the atmosphere is under Marchetti, compared with the rah-rah, sisterhoody vibe when Massenet was at the helm. Another tells of how a meditation expert had to be called in to “diffuse the atmosphere”. But that image of the ‘“man with big balls” taking “the little lady’s start-up” to the next level, as a piece in the Sunday Times read last October, doesn’t square with everyone. “One of the gauges I often use when I have visitors to my studio in London is how they interact with the people I work with as they walk around the building,” says Paul Smith. “Whether they speak to people in a kind way and say hello or not. Federico absolutely did. I can tell you, a lot of people don’t.” “He’s definitely not your average business guy with his eye on nothing but the bottom line,” offers Holly Brubach, the former fashion writer for The New Yorker who advised on vintage collections and special projects for Yoox in the mid-Noughties. She recalls the Pac-Man children’s line that the late Malcolm McLaren designed to mark the company’s fifth anniversary. “These scarves came in from the manufacturers and they must have been 6ft long – for kids who were 3ft tall. Most CEOs would have hit the roof and cancelled the project. But Federico took it in his stride and gave them as Christmas presents to adults. You know, a lot of corporate executives have an inability to comprehend creative types. They regard artists – including the ones in their own companies – as lazy, immature, undisciplined, extravagant. That’s not the case with Federico. He really admires creative people and he understands them. He also has the capacity to connect with people of all ages.” “Look, I’m usually bored by people, but I’m never bored by Federico,” says Luca A Bigger Splash Guadagnino, who is about to start filming a remake of the horror classic Suspiria, and is a great friend of Marchetti’s. “I would say we share some general characteristics,” he adds. “We are both fiercely independent, we have extraordinary ambition, and we are very competitive.” For his part, Marchetti has had to go on a bit of a charm offensive since the merger, staging roadshows at office headquarters around the world from London to Shanghai to Tokyo so staff can get to know what their new boss is like as a person, and so forth. But then at heart, he’s just an ordinary guy, as anyone who follows him on Instagram will know. Interspersed between snaps of him hanging out with Naomi Campbell and Philippe Starck and throwing shoes out of Lapo Elkann’s boat in Venice, there are pictures of his Easy Jet boarding pass from Paris to Milan, him celebrating his birthday with his childhood buddies from Ravenna, him picking persimmons from a tree and collecting them in a crumpled Yoox carrier bag. A real uomo del popolo, in other words, and not at all the corporate raider who doesn’t need his staff to like him, as a piece in the Financial Times quoted him as saying last year. “Ah, what I meant there was I don’t need to be venerated like a king,”sighs Marchetti, patiently. “We’re no longer in the 18th century. Yes, I need respect, I need ethics; I need fairness and hard work. And yes, I need results. That is a different thing to my staff not liking me. But I can be very naive, sometimes, with journalists. This is what my partner, Kerry [Olsen, the Yorkshire-born journalist and mother of his five-year-old daughter, Margherita], tells me. She tells me I’m too romantic, that I fall in love with people and then get deluded. I guess I’m a little childish like that. It’s why I am often let down.” Whoever the real Federico Marchetti is, he sure knows how to turn a profit, as the latest YNAP figures prove. In 2015, the company had combined sales of €1.7 billion (half of which were on mobile phones), up 31 per cent on 2014. That same year there were 2.5 million active customers compared with 2.1 million;7.1 million orders compared with 5.8 million. Under Marchetti’s aegis, Prada, Moncler and Pomellato have signed upwithNet-a-PorterandGucci’sAlessandro Michele has designed the site its very own capsule collection – the first of many designer Marchetti with his partner Kerry Olsen at a dinner for Gucci’s Alessandro Michele 160
- 167. collaborations, Marchetti andNAP’s new president, Alison Loehnis, hope. Let’s not forget, either, the 40 inhouse online designer boutiques powered by Yoox, Marni, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent among them – an “aside” that makes up 10 per cent of YNAP’s overall turnover. F or Marchetti, the merger is just the beginning. In April, Alabbar Enterprises – the conglomerate behind the Dubai Mall – invested €100 million in exchange for three per cent of the business to help with the integration of the two companies and developYNAP’s business in the region’s lucrative luxury e-commerce market. The Middle East (particularly Iran), Africa, South America: these are all markets Marchetti is keen to penetrate. The real challenge for the future, though, is creating the perfect smartphone app, of synthesising all that content and commerce he’s now in charge of into one easy icon – because smartphones (he is absolutely messianic about this) are the future. Of the approximate €2 billion total revenue generated by YNAP, he points out, €1 billion of it comes via not iPad or desktop but mobile (especially when we watch television, apparently – oh, boy, when the ads come on do we get shopping on our phones). “And it’s only 2016. What’s going to happen by 2020?” It’s the following morning, and I have just arrived for a late breakfast at Marchetti’s opulent, art-filled apartment overlooking Milan’s Piazza Castello. With its labyrinthine passageways and cardinal-red hallways, it’s a far cry from the bachelor pad he lived in before, so tiny that baby Margherita had to sleep in the cupboard. There’s a John Currin, there’s a Lucian Freud, there, my goodness, is a Chagall – “Bella, eh?” – although it’s the little Morandi he bought at auction to celebrate the merger that’s probably the most “important” piece in his collection right now. Given equal prominence are pictures drawn by “Maggie”, who is quietly colouring away at the dining-room table with Kerry, a tall, elegant, instantly likeable woman, dressed this morning in Balenciaga and “man repellers”, as she calls her Marni sandals. Over fruit kebabs and a pot of fresh coffee (Marchetti only ever drinks decaffeinated), she jokes about how they first met and fell in love – at the time she had just come back from Japan, quit her career as a lawyer and was working in PR – how it took him three attempts to get her to come out and when she finally agreed, it was on Valentine’s Day, though he had no idea. She jokes, too, about his almost pathological need to be on time, meaning they often arrive at people’s houses for dinner when the hosts are still in the shower, and his impatience at airports. “Whenever we travel, I feel like a traditional Indian woman walking behind him with Margherita, and even when Margherita isn’t there, and we’ve got plenty of time, I’m still not allowed to browse in Duty Free.” She tells me, too, how tricky it was assimilating into Milanese culture, of “giving birth in Italian; did you know a natural birth was called un parto spontaneo? It made it all sound so volcanic, somehow”, of getting the clothes thing down pat. “It has been a kind of finishing school in thatrespect,”shegigglesinherfaintYorkshire accent. “There I was, this London girl, wearing my rabbit fur over my vintage dress, working this whole Courtney Love thing. I didn’t realise all the different dress codes, how I needed all these sophisticated ‘at home’ clothes. Oh god, and the beach thing. The worst was when Fede took me to these beautiful Sicilian islands and there were all these tanned Italian women in sarongs, elegantly draped on rocks. I didn’t do tans! I was from Redcar so that was hell on earth! I’m older now, but when I was younger all I wanted to do was fit in, and I know when I first arrived I made a lot of gaffes.” “Oh, Kerry is a dream,” enthuses Laudomia Pucci, who is friends with the couple and holidayed with them last summer in the Peloponnese. “We make jokes about her English manners all the time. I think it was at Pitti Uomo, there was this line of people wanting to get in and there she was obediently waiting at the very end of it, even though Federico and I were walking straight in. We said, ‘What are you doing?’ She said, ‘No no, I’ve got to queue.’” “I met Kerry after I met Federico, and that really filled the picture in for me,” offers Margherita Missoni, whose online children’s boutique is powered by Yoox, and who is also a friend. “I liked him even more because he liked her. She comes across as naive but she’s actually got quite a wicked sense of humour.” One of three, the son of a Fiat warehouse manager and a call-centre operator, Marchetti grew up in Ravenna, best known for being Dante’s burial place and the seat of the Roman Empire in the fifth century. A classic geek who wished he weren’t – “I tried not to get good marks but I always did!” – he spent his teens hanging out in the town square with the cool surfer kids, longing to be one of them and obsessing about becoming an entrepreneur. As an economics student at Bocconi University in Milan he had a sketchbook of “silly” ideas – a portable phone that could take pictures (this in 1989),a forehead- and-chin headrest to be used when flying economy. Then there was the inspired idea to make mozzarella using wildebeest. (“I wantedtosaveAfrica.Ioverlooked the fact that wild animals wouldn’t stand still to be milked.”) In 1998 he went to New York to study for an MBA at Columbia Business School with a view to living there and working in the film industry. But not one of the companies he wrote to – Sony, New Line, Paramount among them – would give him a job. So the following year he went back to Milan,disappointed but by no means broken. Within three months he had come up with the idea of selling end-of-season Italian fashion brands via the internet – this when the dotcom bubble was just ready to burst. He had absolutely no contacts in the luxury fashion industry, and he was broke because he’d just resigned from his job in consulting. “Actually I had less than zero because I’d spent it all on a trip to Polynesia and I owed back my student loan, but I had lunch with a friend and he said to me, how much do you need to give them? I said €50,000, and he took out his wallet and he wrote the cheque. I said shouldn’t we go to a lawyer “I’m told I’m too romantic, that I fall in love then get deluded” > 187 COURTESYGETTYIMAGESFORGUCCI PIERPAOLO FERRARI 161
- 168. T his Vogue Festival, watchingAlessandro Michele in conversation with Alexandra Shulman was a decidedly hot ticket. From the moment he glided on stage, the designer did not disappoint. Looking very much the new Gucci man, he wore an emerald bomber jacket. On its back flashed an embroidered bird, exquisite in colourful detail; the only one of its kind, just like its owner-creator. Everyone in the auditorium would have committed crimes for that jacket,a version of which had been available in Gucci stores until supply had no possibility of keeping pace with demand. Such have been the fortunes of Gucci since Michele became creative director in January 2015. On the big screen above Michele and Shulman was beamed a little taster of last season’s Gucci show. Boom, boom went the pounding soundtrack as girls walked down a black catwalk wearing clothes that managed to be a little bit retrospective, a lot modern, romantic, bold, embellished and oddly conservative, too. “I don’t choose one colour, one line or one language,” Michele explained later.“I’m interested by shapes and illusions.I want you to be confused by what you see.” His is an aesthetic that packs quite a punch. “I’ve tried to see what happened when you put your foot on the accelerator and act like you have nothing to lose,” he said. Despite this drama, in person Michele is gentle. His hair falls in soft ripples past his ears, his beard pillows about his chin; he could be an enchanted creature from Middle Earth. When he suggested, with a little wry smile, “I think what I make is quite creepy,” everyone laughed; he is the opposite of creepy. Instead, he is a dreamer, beguiled by ambiguity and its anarchy. “I hate rules,” he said. When Shulman asked about his decision to show some womenswear with his menswear collections, he said, “I find gender and sexual orientation are again about rules. We are animals, we belong to nature.” This philosophy he learnt from his father, another gentle man who, said Michele, very much loved “the birds and the flowers. He was, in a way, Franciscan.” Michele joined Gucci 14 years ago, when Tom Ford was creative director. Before that he was at Fendi, where he thrived on the house’s spirit of lawlessness. It is an attitude that he has carried with him.“Designing,” he told Shulman, “is a dream work. If you are not open to dream, you cannot understand.” Were the Gucci team open to his dream when he first assumed his crown? “At the beginning they were unsure. They thought what I was making had no sense,”he said, and his team sitting in the audience, all wearing full Gucci looks, shared amused nods of agreement. After Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco stepped down from the fashion house in 2014, Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri paid Michele a visit in his Rome apartment to talk over a coffee. Neither of the men realised until afterwards that they’d just sat through an interview for the position of Gucci’s creative director. The “coffee” took four hours. Bizzarri was “shocked” by what he saw in Michele’s apartment, and he understood from the decoration how “I had a beautiful idea, but that I was a crazy person.” It was a week or so later that Bizzarri rang the designer to ask if he could put together a show in a week. “I said OK,” he recalled, adding, with characteristic good nature, “it was a crazy time, full of energy.” VH > ALESSANDRO MICHELE “I hate rules. We are animals, we belong to nature” GROOMINGTHROUGHOUT:SARAHMIERAU.WITHTHANKSTOGEORGENORTHWOODANDBOBBIBROWN Thousands descended upon Kensington this May to share in the glamour and the glee of our Vogue 100 Festival, in association with Harrods. And no wonder, with guests like these… By Emily Sheffield and Violet Henderson Photographs by Pamela Hanson PLEASERS Crowd 162
- 170. T here is awry, self- deprecating humour to Grace Coddington – American Vogue’s celebrated creative director at large – and a refreshingly blunt honesty, which emerged during her conversation with Lucinda Chambers, British Vogue’s fashion director (and Grace’s former assistant). Was she getting used to camera crews being present on every fashion shoot in this increasingly digitally focused world, Lucinda asked. “No, I’m getting older,” Grace quipped, her halo of red hair contrasting with her minimal outfit: a navy sweater, black trousers and Céline skater shoes. When described by Lucinda as a stylist who has “respect and passion” for the designs, to the point where “you don’t mess the clothes around, turn them front and inside out,” Grace’s riposte was “I’m very lazy. I just put it the way designers hand it out.”The best question came from the audience:“How do you work with Anna Wintour and get your point across without being intimidated?” With expert comic timing, Grace answered, “I’m older than she is.” We learnt a little about her childhood, how her brilliant imagination was formed: her parents ran a hotel in Anglesey and so her early years were quite solitary. “I just used to sit and dream.” She was scouted when she was a waitress working in the Stockpot on the King’s Road and sent for a shoot test with Norman Parkinson. “The Sixties were incredible, yes,” she smiled. There was a hint of nostalgia. She admitted to there being less time to forge relationships with new girls, such as Kendall Jenner (“Kendall is lovely; she does a great job, but I don’t feel she is part of me”), and less time to research big stories or travel. “It’s somehow a much faster thing now.” We also learnt that redhead Natalie Westling is her chosen new face; that she would take caviar to a desert island; that has she kept none of her sketchbooks (an incredible legacy now lost, as she drew nearly every outfit she was planning to put in a shoot). She has moved on to drawing cats. “Well, I draw the clothes on the cats now,” she chuckled. ES > GRACE CODDINGTON PAMELA HANSON
- 171. “I want tophotograph what I feel like and what I want to feel like. I just want to create a picture that no one’s ever seen before,” said photographer Juergen Teller of why he likes to put himself into pictures. “These days anyone can do a great photograph on their iPhone – they do every fucking five minutes – so you need to put more thought into it. If people don’t like it, I don’t mind” Who better than French model Caroline de Maigret, on left, and designer Isabel Marant to instruct us on “The Allure of Paris Cool”? “I hate the idea of style icons. I find it restrictive. If I did have one, it would be a man like Serge Gainsbourg,” said Isabel 165
- 172. One brand makinga lot of noise in the industry of late is Vetements. The erudite CEO, Guram Gvasalia, explained the concepts behind the controversy. “We never wanted to do something revolutionary or provocative,” he began, before explaining the mechanics behind their sales strategy and those famous sell-out Vetements hoodies: “When clothes sell out, they sell out; people are beginning to understand the concept. They find out when it is coming into the store and they go and buy it. If we were to produce more we would destroy our reputation, lose respect. It would also be disrespectful to the people who bought it to begin with” 166
- 173. T hirty minutes beforeher on-stage discussion with make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury, there was still no sign of Kim Kardashian West. With just 20 minutes to go, we finally found her sequestered in a small,dusty classroom,eager ticket-holders and fans outside, held at bay by a looming security guard. Having been taken by her driver to the front rather than the back entrance of the Royal Geographical Society, she and her husband, Kanye, had sought refuge from the crowds behind the nearest door that would open. This would have been enough to induce a celebrity hissy fit in most A-listers, but Kim was unperturbed. In fact, she was cheerful, despite flooring levels of jet lag (she had been at Cannes on the Tuesday, then flown back to Los Angeles for a day “to see the babies” and pick up Kanye, before flying back to London via Rome). “I was still awake at four,” she murmured, navigating her way across gravel in tiny black stiletto sandals (“I can always take them off…”) to the Green Room, with Kanye following quietly behind. “I’m just the PA today,” he deadpanned. What strikes you first about Kim is her flawless skin. Then you take in the doll-like features, and the dainty ankles, feet and wrists, which are at odds with her curves, today wrapped in gossamer-like bronze chainmail by Yeezy (most of her clothes are custom-made: “I don’t have a lot of options being so short,and my proportions are not so typical.”) She has an unexpected Zen-like quality. No fuss, nor fidgeting, and a surprising level of charm delivered in a soft voice. Her eye contact is direct but not challenging or hierarchical, more warm and welcoming. It is this same warmth she brought to the stage – a natural sharer, there was little off-limits. Meanwhile, Charlotte Tilbury, Kim’s new best friend (“We became, like,old friends in 20 seconds!” said Charlotte) delivered noisy,fast-pacedeffervescence. The duo were greeted by loud cheers from the audience – tickets sold out in 24 hours. Hosting was Vogue editor-at- large Fiona Golfar –“We came on in order of size and breast,” she joked. Kim’s obsession with make-up started young, she said, recalling raidinghermother’s Chanel make-up bag. Charlotte’s mother’s motto was: “A pot of face cream, a black dressandlittleredlipwilltakeyouanywhere.” A different kind of parental guidance came from Kim’s mother, of whom she admitted matter-of-factly, “My mum talked me into doing Playboy.” Now a mother of two young children, she has no reservations about her naked body. “I worked so hard to get my body back after both babies, and it gave me a sense of pride and I felt sexy again. If I pose a nude selfie I don’t mean to offend anyone, it’s just about what is making me feel happy.” Quizzed by Fiona about whether she ever wants to get off the Truman Show of her life, she replied serenely:“It’s our way to share our story. There’s never been a moment when I have been, ‘I can’t handle this!’ I really enjoy sharing my life. Once you open the door you really can’t close it. There have been times when we were thinking, ‘God, this has gone on so long, this is so boring, what’s going to happen?’ And then Bruce will say,‘Hey, I’m a woman!’” she laughed. “It seems like every season something wild happens.” ES > KIM KARDASHIAN WEST AND CHARLOTTE TILBURY PAMELA HANSON 167
- 174. DINERS’ CLUB f ollowing an impressiverun of celebrations – from the National Portrait Gallery’s sell-out Vogue 100: A Century of Style exhibition to the commemorative June issue, with the Duchess of Cambridge as its cover star – it was to Kensington Gardens for a very special gala dinner in honour of Vogue’s centenary. Under a summer-evening sky, 300 glamorous guests from the worlds of fashion, film, art and music poured into a grand marquee to celebrate with Moët & Chandon champagne. Kanye and Kim Kardashian West jetted in from Rome, where they had attended Valentino’s Teatro dell’Opera di Roma the night before; designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri also hotfooted it over, sharing a table with a tuxedo- wearing Phoebe Philo and her husband, the gallerist Max Wigram. The Italians were out in force, from Dolce & Gabbana and Miuccia Prada to Giorgio Armani. Meanwhile, the British contingent included designers Christopher Kane (whose dresses were spotted several times over, notably on Lara Stone), Erdem, Luella Bartley and Emilia Wickstead – wearing her own candy-pink and cream striped gown – as well as the newly elected mayor of London, Sadiq Khan. Demi Moore selected a Cavalli couture floor- skimmer. The label’s creative director, Peter Dundas, was also in attendance; he had custom-made Kim KardashianWest’s sheer slip. After a three-course dinner, KateMoss,sportingAlexanderMcQueen, led guests on to Tramp nightclub for the official after-party, where revels lasted into the early hours. SH > NAME NAME TOM FORD NATALIE MASSENET JOAN COLLINS KIM KARDASHIAN WESTKANYE WEST KATE MOSS MIUCCIA PRADA AND GIORGIO ARMANI JUERGEN TELLER STEFANO GABBANA AND CLAUDIA SCHIFFER DOMENICO DOLCE, MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI AND PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI JAIME PERLMAN AND CHRISTOPHER KANE ALEXANDRA SHULMAN PETER BLAKE DRIES VAN NOTEN NICHOLAS COLERIDGE JEAN CAMPBELL MORGANO’DONOVAN;DARRENGERRISH 168
- 175. DEBONNAIRE VON BISMARCK AND DEMIMOORE SUPER TRAMP At the after-party in Tramp, a floor- filling set from DJ Fat Tony was only upstaged when Alexandra Shulman took to the decks. One guess as to the Madonna track she chose… KATE MOSS CHARLOTTE WIGGINS, LARA MULLEN AND SAM ROLLINSON LILY DONALDSON AND JEAN CAMPBELL TINIE TEMPAH EMILY SHEFFIELD AND TOM CRAIG JOHNNY COCA SUZY MENKES ERDEM MORALIOGLU DAMIAN LEWIS ANGELO PENNETTA MICA ARGANARAZ ADWOA ABOAH WITH DOMINIC WEST AND VOGUE STAFFERS ALEXA CHUNG PENELOPE TREE LARA STONE 169 S AYFROMA GE Sophie Dahl, Josh Olins,LilyDonaldson andothers joined the Vogueteam for photoboothposes, while the Hemsleysisters said it with peonies
- 176. Derek Blasberg, AlexaChung and Lauren Santo Domingo met to deliver a style clinic. Their advice ranged from not turning up to your Vogue job interview straight from the club (as Lauren once did) to how to manage an Instagram account (“Never do two selfies in a row,” said Derek – 487,000 followers and counting). On the subject of keeping it real, Alexa asked Lauren if she shopped on the high street. “What’s the high street?” replied Lauren innocently DesignersJennyPackham,left,andMaryKatrantzou,above,caughtup backstage.Maryhadjustdebatedthebestwaytostartoutinfashion, withapanelincludingtalentscoutLuluKennedyandheadofaccessories atHarrods,SimonLongland.Forher,recruitmentisaboutpersonality: “Youneedtofeelcomfortableintheirpresence,”shesaid.“Iftheyfeel intimidatedbyyou,thenyouwon’tfeelcomfortablewiththem” 170
- 177. “Pressure? I fireoff it!” stated designer Christopher Kane, on right. Along with Jenny Packham, one of the Duchess of Cambridge’s favourite designers, and Roberto Cavalli’s new star boy Peter Dundas, on left, he talked openly to Alexandra Shulman about the pressures and joys of working in today’s increasingly fast and fierce fashion industry PAMELA HANSON
- 178. D omenico Dolce and StefanoGabbana looked impressive in sharp monochrome as they sat on a white sofa on a white stage. Yet there was no denying the colour of these two characters as they bounced off one another with a wit and honesty that was nothing short of familial. Dolce & Gabbana began in 1985, and according to Stefano, on right, the magic that propels their enduring relationship is very simple: “I love prints and he loves cut.” “Yes, I do the cutting, and the stitching,” added Domenico, on left, with a droll smile. Stefano turned to the rapt audience, his muscles bionic beneath his T-shirt. “Some people ask me what I do. Well, I get manicures, go to the hairdresser.” Later, he was serious. “We have loved each other a long time. We have characters that are completely opposite, which is why we work so well together. Our collections are like our children.” After the brand discontinued its D&G line in 2012, “we moved everything up,” said Domenico.So Dolce & Gabbana became the main prêt-à-porter line, and the pair created Alta Moda: in name, a twice-yearly couture show; in experience, extraordinary fantasies of glamour shown in Italy’s most beautiful locations – Capri, Portofino, La Scala. “The best thing you can do is to make things that are more and more special,” said Domenico. Describing the Alta Moda experience, Alexandra Shulman teased, “You are really very grand travel agents.” Stefano laughed. “With Alta Moda, you don’t just buy the dress, but you buy the idea of Portofino, say – you buy the spaghetti, the opera, the Italian language.” And Domenico explained that Alta Moda was a response to a very high-end need. “The Alta Moda customer does not want to see her dress worn already on the red carpet. She wants to buy something unique. The Americans go crazy for Alta Moda.” For all the fun and glamour that Dolce & Gabbana sell, the designers never stop working. “We sketch everything that we sell. And we decide everything that happens within the company,” says Domenico. Expansion has meant more work. “We sell different clothes to different territories, depending on their needs,” said Stefano. Before he turned 35, Stefano never took a holiday. Now, at 53, he admitted,“When I go on holiday, I want the five stars. Or boats.” And both designers chuckled. VH DOLCE & GABBANA “Our collections are like our children” PAMELA HANSON172
- 179. Above centre: theFestival’s very own Harrods doorman. Above: the CND Vinylux nail bar. Left: Calgary Avansino with the centenary wall of Vogue covers Above: Dolce & Gabbana sign their exclusive Vogue Festival tote bags. Below: make-up lessons by Bobbi Brown and braiding by Kérastase Katie Franklin and Lucinda Chambers give a Vogue styling session Alexa Chung arrives courtesy of Range Rover George Northwood demonstrates his cutting technique Above: hair colourist Josh Wood. Below: make-up artists Lisa Eldridge, Val Garland and Hannah Martin Erin O’Connor poses for David Downton’s fashion drawing class Grace Coddington. Right: Sam McKnight DARRENGERRISH.WITHTHANKSTOJAGUARLANDROVERANDGETTTAXI FESTIVAL FLOOR From the
- 181. MERTALAS&MARCUSPIGGOTT FOR SOME WOMEN,BOOKING A REFLECTIVE SPA HOLIDAY CAN TURN OUT TO BE A LIFE-CHANGING MANOEUVRE. NICOLA MOULTON SHARES THEIR STORIES The strategic RETREAT b arely a day goes by now without someone telling you to buy this/watch that/use an amazing new miracle cream, and adding for dramatic emphasis: “It will change your life.” And more often than not, slight modicums of improvement notwithstanding, life goes on very much as normal. Because honestly, how often do we experience real, radical shifts in our lives? When was the last time you really shook things up? Maybe never. And as life gets faster, the moments for reflection become fewer – meaning > 175 VOGUEbeauty
- 182. BOOK TODAY ATBRIDESTHESHOW.CO.UK 3 0 T H S E P T – 2 N D O C T 2 0 1 6 , B U S I N E S S D E S I G N C E N T R E , L O N D O N N 1 YES to ONLYshow The to say Get 25% off tickets by quoting ‘TM25’ when booking
- 183. “When I boarded the plane tocome home, I was not the same person. I had resolve” whole years can slip by with you barely even noticing. Holidays have traditionally been a welcome opportunity to press the pause button and return home with renewed good intentions, but now some of the more serious destination spas are taking this idea to a whole new level. Wellness retreats are the new holiday choice for overworked, overachieving urbanites. Distinct from spas, they aim to take a more reflective, longer-term approach to your wellbeing, combining the physical and mental aspects. Instead of just coming back a few pounds lighter and glowing with health, their programmes are so tailored and their therapies so exceptional, they often have the effect of allowing you to embrace change not just with your body, but in the rest of your life, too. Two years ago, Sarah Davies, 41, went to Kamalaya, a beautiful spa and wellness retreat surrounded by the beaches and coconut trees of Koh Samui in Thailand. She runsasuccessfulmarketing firm, but work was stressful and her six-year marriage unhappy. “I booked it after a bad day at work. I’d got home so stressed I’d been sick,” she says. “Two weeks later I was on the plane.” afriend who had recently visited for a detox had recommended Kamalaya, and raved about both the quality of the practitioners and the beauty of the surroundings. In fact, Sarah describes herself as an unlikely candidate for the cymbal-clanging and panpipe-playing of traditional spa retreats. “When I got there I thought,‘This is so not me,’”she says.“There were Buddhas everywhere, and it seemed very touchy-feely. I’m much more results-driven. I signed up for the weight-loss programme because it seemed the most goal- orientated. But, of course, the first thing they asked me was, ‘Why do you want to lose weight?’, and my whole story just came tumbling out.” What happens next is a programme of treatments which are planned out for you by a naturopath. You have at least one “therapy” a day – be it nutrition, acupuncture or reiki – and then additional “wellbeing” treatments which are more traditional things such as massage. Most guests have two or three treatments planned per day. It’s a fairly big operation: there are 320 staff, of which 100 are dedicated to wellness, and not everyone comes for the healing – some people are just there to enjoy the beach. But there’s certainly an emphasis on stepping off the train: mobile- phone use is limited to rooms, and freeWi-Fi is rationed to 20 minutes a day before it is chargeable, with the intention of making guests question its necessity before they log on. Oh, and it’s definitely not child-friendly. But everyone you meet who has been there says the place has a definite something which makes it unique. “The Thai people are very special,”offers Karina Stewart, the Princeton- educated doctor of Chinese medicine who founded the retreat with her husband in 2005. “Their EQ – emotional intelligence – is very high, and the enthusiasm we have for change here is very infectious.” During her nutritional consultation, Sarah explained that she had been on medication for colitis (inflammation of the lining of the colon) for 10 years. “‘Your gut is rotten,’ they told me. ‘And because of that, you’ve lost the ability to have a gut instinct. When you heal it, you’ll be better able to take control of other things, too.’ It really struck a chord with me because I’m famous for dithering, constantly changing my mind about things. By the time I went home, it was just like the saying goes – I knew in my gut what I had to do.” Ten days after she’d left, Sarah was walking through her front door to tell her husband their marriage was over. “When I boarded the plane to come home, I was not the same person. I looked better. I felt better. I had resolve. I suddenly just knew what I had to do when I got home. I ordered a glass of champagne, and it was like toasting my new life,” she says. Katie Percival believes her visit to the resort paved the way for her to have a baby. “When I went there, I had recently fallen pregnant,” she says. “But I had suffered a miscarriage and was still quite fragile. I was looking for something to help me through, to give me both optimism and coping mechanisms, and I found everything there. But not in a cultish way – it’s just very peaceful. I did a tailor-made Emotional Balance programme and especially loved my mentoring sessions and reiki. At the time, I saw all that holistic stuff as secondary to what in my mind was just a lovely, relaxing holiday with my husband. We spent our days on the beach and our evenings having quiet dinners, not really getting involved with the wellness talks that are on offer. But looking back it was the combination of total relaxation with the time and space to gently explore what I wanted from life that set it apart from a normal holiday. I really do think it shifted my mindset, and that’s what changed everything within my body.” There are other retreats combining time away from home with a gentle nudge towards new life decisions, too. The Vana Malsi Estate in India is an ashram as well as a wellness retreat, with an emphasis on healing “everyone who is besieged by the challenges of living in the modern world.” You start every day with yoga in a hut on the edge of a forest, and then return there at the end of the day to reflect on the changes within yourself, which is the part that guests credit with helping them shift their mindsets. There is also Golden Door in California, where “mindfulness and improvement sessions” are offered alongside the personal training and daily massages. Lynne Franks, the PR turned wellness guru who has been developing transformational retreats for the past 16 years, says removing yourself from the everyday is the only way to get this kind of real perspective. “There’s so much power in being away from home,” she says. “You don’t have your baggage – you don’t have to worry about anything. Food is on the table, you can completely relax in a healthy way. I think more women will spend their holidays like this. People don’t want to lie on a beach any more.” SophieBarrett,34,wenttoKamalaya as a guest and ended up staying for two years. She had been working in London as a PR for a big jewellery company, and was “feeling the effects of stress”. Having moved to Thailand, she ended up working as Kamalaya’s in-house PR. Now, since moving back to London, she is retraining as a herbal practitioner. > LOLA’S APOTHECARY SWEET LULLABY BODY AND MASSAGE OIL, £36, LOLASAPOTHECARY. COM SOVERAL WORKAHOLIC’S BLEND BODY, BATH & SHOWER OIL, £36, AT ALEXANDRA SOVERAL.CO.UK THIS WORKS ENERGY BANK SKIN GLOW, £30 PIXELATE.BIZ CARRIED AWAY Get off to a flying start with these travel-size beauty elixirs NUORI VITAL HAND CREAM, £35, AT BEING CONTENT. COM KIEHL’S CACTUS FLOWER & “TIBETAN GINSENG” HYDRATING MIST, £18 177 VOGUEbeauty
- 184. “You have thisvision of these places and think maybe they’re just run by hippies,” she says. “But, in fact, what moving there taught me was that you can’t expect the retreat to do all the work. If you really want to change your life, you have to put some effort in, too. When I got there, I was just repeating the same patterns of behaviour I was following at home – being the yes person, taking too much on, focusing on details rather than looking at the bigger picture.” As well as changing her career path, the experience also made Sophie realise some fundamental things, such as the fact that she’s much happier in the countryside. Although she’s still based in London, she has moved flats to ensure she is overlooking green space. “Nature is very much part of the experience at Kamalaya. They have the trees growing right into your villa and there are snakes slithering around.” Having done a weekend course in naturopathic nutrition in her twenties, she also began to embrace the possibility of making her passion into her vocation. “There wasn’t a lightbulb moment with any of it,” she says. “But my outlook is 100 per cent different from when I first went there.” d etractors of these kinds of places worry that without proper qualifications, the therapists you encounter are in danger of delving into psychological issues without equipping people with the necessary tools to manage their re-entry into their normal life. Karina is emphatic that that’s not what the place is about. “I firmly believe in psychoanalysis,” she says, “but we are not trained, nor do we have the time to do that. Ours is not therapy in a traditional sense.” But with these kinds of retreats becoming more popular, the line between physical and mental therapies is becoming blurred, and it’s something that Espa founder and spa-industry leader Susan Harmsworth believes the industry needs to consider. “Increasingly, there will be spas for escapism, and spas where you go for something more serious – the Kamalayas, the Lanserhofs, the Vivamayrs – and I think you can’t mix the two,” she says.“But the trouble is, it is very difficult to separate the physical from the emotional. In a good spa, with very holistic therapists,something like 25 per cent of clients cry or have an emotional release of some kind or other, even just having a massage.” Like Sarah, Jessica Hall, 52, comes across as someone exceptionally sane and logical; not the suggestible sort wholeapswillinglyfromonealternative therapy to the next.She certainly didn’t expect that a holiday to Marrakesh would start a chain of thought that ended up with her walking away from a 20-year marriage. “I was an extremely happily married person for more than 20 years,” she says. “Then while we were in Morocco I did a yoga class, and came out of it inexplicably in tears. I was so shocked by it. But I realised I felt happier and more at peace there than I did in my normal life, that that wasn’t right, and that I had to change. When you’re at home, daily life gets in the way of really thinking about the big questions, like how happy you are. I know I wouldn’t have had that moment if I hadn’t been away, and looking inside myself a bit more.” When she got back to her room, says Jessica, her husband “took one look at me and said he knew I wasn’t happy, and that if I were to leave him, I should do it now, as he’d rather we ended our marriage having had so many wonderful times. A few weeks later I was travelling for work to the Caribbean. I was invited to see a woman who I thought was a lifestyle coach but she turned out to be a healer. I walked in and the first thing she said was that I was going to leave my husband. And by the end of the year, I had.” Now, Jessica says she makes all her major life decisions on an annual wellness retreat. “I don’t see it as part of my year’s holiday allowance,” she says, “I see it as part of my essential maintenance.I go to the Henri Chenot wellness retreat in Italy once a year and I sort of have an agenda of what I’ll be thinking about, such as learning to speak Italian or no longer working on Fridays. It’s because your mind is free.” Is it still a holiday if you have an agenda? Maybe not, but perhaps it’s worth jumping on a plane to find out. “It’s certainly not a typical holiday,” says Kamalaya’s Karina Stewart.“But it is still very much a holiday.” Some names have been changed “The first thing she said was that I was going to leave my husband. By the end of the year, I had” ESCAPEROUTES CIRCLE RETREATS, IBIZA A hideaway combining arts workshops with restorative and luxurious treatments for body and mind. Circleretreats. com VANA MALSI, INDIA A retreat in the Himalayan foothills, offering bespoke objective-based programmes to de-stress, detox and relax. Vanaretreats. com BLOOM RETREATS, MAJORCA Bloom Retreats offers a unique blend of holistic experiences including art, creative writing, meditation and exercise. Bloomretreats.com GOLDEN DOOR, CALIFORNIA Golden Door is devoted to recharging and reprogramming mind and body through outdoor activities, mindfulness and spa treatments. Goldendoor.com KAMALAYA, THAILAND This beautiful retreat on the island of Koh Samui offers tailor-made programmes to begin your wellness journey. Kamalaya.com 178 VOGUEbeauty
- 186. Sleek summer hairis a breeze with the new Dyson Supersonic™ hairdryer BLOWN AWAY
- 187. OPPOSITE:YVANFABING.STYLING:ALEXANDRACARL.HAIR:KARINBIGLER.MAKE-UP:JENNYCOOMBS.MODELS:ANINEVANVELZEN, LIKARZHEVSKAYA.LIKAWEARSRUFFLE-SLEEVEBLOUSE,AREANYC.ANINEWEARST-SHIRT,MARQUESALMEIDA,ATNET-A-PORTER. BUSTIERTOP,OFF-WHITE.EARRINGS,STYLIST’SOWN.THISPAGE:NATOWELTON.STYLING:CARRIELOUISE “Of course itlooks different. But it’s not until you use it that you discover just how differently it works and behaves” AKIN KONIZI VOGUE PROMOTION we’re all about the done/undone look this summer: relaxed dressing offset by sleek, beautifully styled hair. But looking sharp in the height of summer isn’t always easy – which is why this season, we’re going supersonic. Since its launch in June, it’s no exaggeration to say that the Dyson SupersonicTM hairdryer has turned the beauty world on its head – and Vogue has the pictures to prove it. At our shoot – the very first fashion story with hair styled using the Dyson SupersonicTM hairdryer – we watched as our models’ hair was blow- dried to a silky, super-smooth shine in no time at all. And the best part? It stayed beautifully glossy throughout the day. What Dyson has done is turn “sleek” into a science. Its glass-bead thermistor measures the temperature of the air exiting the dryer 20 times a second. A microprocessor receives this data and the temperature is regulated so your hair doesn’t suffer extreme heat damage. Because let’s face it, naturally shiny hair is the holy grail. And incredible gloss is where we think the Dyson SupersonicTM hairdryer really comes into its own. The clever smoothing nozzle allows the hairdryer to dry and style at the same time, creating a super-smooth finish. As top hairdresser Akin Konizi, winner of multiple British Hairdresser of the Year awards and Dyson Global Ambassador, says: “Of course it looks different. But it’s not until you use it that you discover just how differently it works and behaves.” And in this case, with a motor that is small enough to fit into the handle, form definitely follows function and radically shifts the balance – making it feel easy to hold, but still powerful enough to dry your hair super-fast. We’re definitely sold! See the power of the Dyson Supersonic™ hairdryer on set with Vogue. Visit Vogue.co.uk/dyson All about shine: the Dyson Supersonic™ hairdryer has been engineered to protect your hair’s glossy shine Dyson Supersonic™ hairdryer, £300
- 188. 1 in 25children is born with a genetic disorder. Join Charlotte De Carle and wear your jeans on Friday 23 September. By wearing your jeans and making a donation you will make a real difference to these children’s lives. Jeans for Genes ® and ™, © 2016 Genetic Disorders UK. Registered Charity Number 1141583. Limited edition fashion t-shirt, as modelled by Charlotte De Carle. £20 available at: jeansforgenes.org/shop lookgood, dogood. WEAR JEANS, CHANGE LIVES SIGN UP FOR YOUR FREE FUNDRAISING PACK TODAY JEANSFORGENES.ORG
- 189. EXCITING, UNCONVENTIONAL ANDJUST A LITTLE BIT NINETIES: THIS SEASON’S HAIR AND MAKE-UP LOOKS HAVE LEFT LAUREN MURDOCH-SMITH SPOILT FOR CHOICE SHE’S ECLECTIC Glitter for grown-ups was seen at Burberry, Giambattista Valli and Saint Laurent this season. Creating a sophisticated take on a teenage favourite, glitter and metallics came in the form of foil appliqués,“heavy metal” smoky eyes and a smattering of “glitter rain” on cheekbones at Burberry, courtesy of the brand’s new, highly pigmented glitter pots, which make the job very easy. EYE quilting Bags under the eyes? Chanel’s trademark quilted leather was brought to life on the models this season as miniature stencils were used to create a geometric pattern across their eyelids. Make-up artist Tom Pecheux used a matt grey shade all the way up to the brow and left the rest of the face clean to make the eyes the focus. Pretty EYELINER Say goodbye to harsh, rocky eyeliner and get to grips with this season’s pretty, feminine look. Take inspiration from the close-to-the-roots, tight lines that were seen at Chloé. Lightly smudge a soft kohl pencil all the way around the eye and let it slip and slide as it pleases. BERRY dark lips Louis Vuitton, Dior, Rodarte and Vivienne Westwood all showed mouths painted with ultra-rich, moist, dark lipstick. Lined precisely and topped with just a touch of gloss, they’re less gothic when teamed with lashings of mascara, as seen at Dior. Garish runway nail art gave way to barely-there hues and subtle embellishment. Accents of gold and white on transparent nails lent a futuristic slant. Most notably, the habitual “shock factor” nails of Gareth Pugh were replaced by almond-shaped, refined taupe nails with clear tips, giving the illusion of a “skin” French manicure. GLITTER makes a comeback THE “SKIN” FRENCH MANICURE CHLOE CHANEL GARETHPUGH BURBERRY LOUISVUITTON 183 VOGUEbeautyJAMESCOCHRANE;PAULBOWDEN
- 190. JAMESCOCHRANE;PAULBOWDEN Fringes are makinga comeback thanks to Givenchy’s extreme hair caps. This petite version of the fringe leaves the forehead exposed and – as in the Givenchy show – eyes can become the main focus. A word to the wise: leave the eyebrow bleaching to the catwalk experts. There were many Nineties references this season, so make-up artists took the opportunity to reconnect with white eyeliner, a product that was big before the millennium thanks to its eye-widening, ethereal-looking effects.At Rodarte, James Kaliardos used white liner on the bottom lash waterline to “finish the look”, and at Proenza Schouler, Diane Kendal updated the brightening technique by blending white liner across the top lash line for a softer, more subtle version of the classic make-up trick. RAIN mates After last season’s much talked-about cable ties, Christopher Kane went for an autumn/winter hair accessory – made by milliner Stephen Jones – that was as surprising as it is sensible: the rain bonnet. Guido Palau, Redken’s global creative director, who styled the hair for Kane’s show, explained,“This hair is the juxtaposition to the beautiful clothes.A yin and yang.” He added grown-out,“raw, razor cut” fringes to give a “tough girl” side to the models, playing against Kane’s beautiful floral prints. GOTHIC hair Hairstylist Adam Reed coined the phrase “hairbadashery” backstage at JJS Lee, perfectly summing up the “more is more” attitude to hair accessories. The romantic hair jewels at Rodarte, Peter Pilotto and McQueen all had a gothic, tarnished element. “This season, accessories are a bit undone: adding a haberdashery element and incorporating it into your styling will be how this trend translates from the catwalk,” he said. Twiggy-style spider lashes played a brief cameo last season at Marni but took hold for autumn/winter, with Dior, Carven and Jason Wu making maxi lashes their beauty statement. Building up natural lashes with multiple coats of mascara rather than applying false lashes makes the trend one of the more wearable this season. SPIDER LASHES WHITE lines Cropped FRINGES WEARING ACCESSORIES MEANS YOUR HAIR NEEDS GRIP. REDKEN’S NEW BEACH ENVY VOLUME WAVE AID, £17, WILL OBLIGE WORK THE SPARKLY TREND WITH BURBERRY’S SHIMMER DUST IN BLACK GLITTER, £20 (IN POT), OR IN YOUR DREAMS PURPLE UNICORN CHUNKY GLITTER (SCATTERED), £5.50, AT ASOS.COM JUMP ON THE BERRY LIP TREND WITH H&M’S CREAM LIPSTICK IN ORCHIDDING ME, £7.99 (ABOVE), OR LAURA MERCIER VELOUR LOVERS LIP COLOUR IN SEDUCTION, £22 YOURAUTUMN/ WINTER 2016 KIT CHANEL LES 4 OMBRES MULTI-EFFECT QUADRA EYESHADOW IN TISSE ESSENTIEL, £40, WAS USED FOR THE QUILTED EYE AT CHANEL GARETH PUGH USED MAC STUDIO NAIL LACQUER IN SKIN, £10, TO CREATE THE FRENCH MANICURE IN HIS SHOW GIVENCHYBYRICCARDOTISCI RODARTE CHRISTOPHERKANE JASONWU PROENZASCHOULER 184 VOGUEbeauty
- 192. VOGUEbeauty “It’s about asserting anew kind of femininity” on a sunny day in spring, the secret roof garden atop the Hermès store at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré feels like the last stop before heaven. And certainly Christine Nagel (above right), the new in-house perfumer at Hermès, has found her dream job. Luxury houses that employ exclusive, full-time perfume noses are now few and far between: just Chanel, Guerlain and Hermès are left. Nagel has always preferred working in-house to taking freelance projects: prior to Hermès she was at Jo Malone, where she says she created 40 compositions (the beautiful Wood Sage & Sea Salt and English Pear & Freesia were both hers) and helped to give the brand a new olfactory identity after the departure of Jo herself. But she can also do block- buster: she co-created (with Francis Kurkdjian) Narciso Rodriguez For Her, as well as Dolce & Gabbana The One and Miss Dior Chérie. Hermès, as is well known, does not rush things. The previous incumbent, master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, had been with the brand since 2004, and the perfumers spent 18 months working alongside each other. Nagel has many similarities to Ellena, and indeed to the codes of Hermès itself: a preference for understatement; an emphasis on exquisite raw materials; an obsession with details. But she also brings a different, perhaps more sensual dimension. And only now, after nearly two years of spending time in each of the ateliers, is she ready to launch her first major fragrance for the house: Galop d’Hermès (it sounds much prettier pronounced “gall- oh” in French). Quite apart from the extraordinarily sleek and beautiful stirrup- shaped bottle, this is the Hermès fragrance modern women have been waiting to wear. It has the leathery earthiness of a classic Hermès scent (Nagel used Doblis, a breathtakingly soft suede sometimes used by the house and said to be the kind that feels most similar to skin), but now mingled with an elegant infusion of Damask rose. What’s clever about it is the way it envelops the senses slowly. Even at first spritz, it feels as if you’re encountering it two hours later, when it has settled down, mellowed in. The secret is in the duality: “If I had chosen just a standard rose, the leather would have dominated, but I wanted a balance between the leather and the rose,” says Nagel. It feels like a move towards embracing the concept that scent can be more womanly. “The idea of the ‘gallop’ is about asserting a new kind of femininity,” says Nagel. “It’s freedom but still being in control.” Galop shows what an elegant Hermès scent can do when it really stretches its legs. BACKin thesaddlePERFUMER CHRISTINE NAGEL HAS TAKEN THE REINS AT HERMES – AND HER DEBUT SCENT IS A WINNER, SAYS NICOLA MOULTON Bliss Triple Oxygen Radiant Protection Energizing Serum, £52, contains a special blend of antioxidants extracted from leafy vegetables to stimulate defensive proteins Ren Flash Defence Anti-Pollution Mist, £24, creates a non- sticky protective sheet that acts as a second skin against harmful free radicals Dr Andrew Weil for Origins Mega- Defense Advanced Daily UV Defender, £30, uses opuntia cactus extract as well as zinc oxide and titanium to combat free radicals and create a powerful UV shield – minus the chalky finish De Mamiel’s new Atmosphériques range contains potent natural ingredients to fight fumes, UV rays and electromagnetic radiation. From £50 Tested in conditions that mimic heavy pollution, Elizabeth Arden Prevage City Smart Hydrating Shield, £55, creates an invisible barrier against toxins Kiehl’s Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Masque, £28, replenishes antioxidant levels and counteracts the effects of environmental harm. LW UPTHEANTIThe new wave of anti-pollution skincare is targeting everything from stress to sun rays and smog NICKKNIGHT;PAULBOWDEN HERMES GALOP D’HERMES EAU DE PARFUM, £183. AVAILABLE FROM AUGUST 15 186
- 193. and he saidno, I know you, it’s going to be fine, and that, really, was the beginning of Yoox. I gave him stock options and now he has a huge boat in Sardinia that he enjoys every summer with his family…” It’s a misty late morning, and I have just driven 90 minutes out of Milan to Lenno on Lake Como to see the renovations to Marchetti’s new home, housed in a former silk mill – a massive, industrial, lozenge-shaped space on two floors overlooking the lake. Donning hard hats, we pick our way through the scaffolding and army of specialist builders from Bergamo to a balcony. Marchetti bounds ahead in his immaculate Dries Van Noten sneakers and black jeans, giving the guided tour of Kerry’s huge dressing room, the “canteen” for the wine, the room that may become a disco for Margherita (“So she’ll never have to go outside to party when she is a teenager!”) and perhaps the pièce de résistance, the 19-metre-long heated indoor pool where he can indulge his obsession with swimming. We finish with his oversized bathroom at the top, overlooking the lake and, to the right, surrounded by a wall of topiarised cypress trees, Villa del Balbianello, the magnificent “big house” in Casino Royale and Star Wars: Return of the Clones. To our left, right on the water, is La Cassinella, a palatial four-house compound accessible only by boat, on sale, Marchetti has heard, for €200million.“Nice,” he shrugs, “but I prefer mine.” (About nine miles away is Laglio, where the Clooneys live – no, Marchetti hasn’t bumped into them yet, but a buddy from his days in New York, Alec Ross, former senior advisor for innovation to Hillary Clinton, knows Amal very well and is keen to get them all together.) Surveying the view across the green-blue lake in which the mountains are reflected, he sighs dreamily. “You know, when it snows, with the palm trees in the garden down there… I’m telling you, it’s just like Beirut.” Back at the rental – a modest but super-comfy little house up a cobbled hill with beaded curtains, old-style speckled mosaic floors and a garden full of Margherita’s playthings – Kerry is eating a delicious lunch of homemade spinach gnocchi and fresh fruit salad prepared by their housekeeper, Aurora.The mill caught Marchetti’s eye because of its long, narrow proportions, perfect for the indoor pool he always wanted,but the sale nearly didn’t go through because two people who hadn’t spoken to each other for 20 years owned the property. “In a way I didn’t mind because I like it when things are difficult. It’s terrible, really terrible, but I enjoy finding solutions to complicated things.” He draws a parallel with the merger, how touch and go it was, how stressful it was for Kerry, too, not being able to say anything to anyone, and how although he thought of himself as lucky – “because luck always comes from taking huge risks” – he had his doubts. “I mean, I was hoping it was going to happen, but I didn’t know for sure. This was the third time round I had tried to buy it. I said to my board, if I fail, I am going to resign.” A week later, Marchetti and I meet in London at the Westfield headquarters of YNAP. It’s been a whirlwind visit of back-to-back conference calls and meetings. It’s only a matter of hours since the deal was sealed with Mohamed Alabbar, and despite having done his laps this morning (he always stays at the Café Royal on Regent Street because he loves the pool), Marchetti looks a little ashen. He’s as charming as ever though,welcoming me into his windowless glass cubicle of an office – Massenet’s former, much larger office he thinks ought to go to the PR department – and asking how I enjoyed my stay in Milan. This afternoon he has lunch with Bella Freud, then it’s back to Milan before leaving for the YNAP headquarters in Singapore, and then on to Silicon Valley. There he will meet with Netflix founder Reed Hastings, speak at the Microsoft summit for CEOs and have a meeting with his hero Bill Gates, something he is still slightly pinching himself about. “I mean, in Italy he’s such a big deal. He’s an adjective, as in… that’s so Bill Gates! For someone who came from nothing, like me, this is a really big, big, big thing.” <161 FEDERICO MARCHETTI VOICE OFA CENTURY 100 years of British Vogue VOGUE: VOICE OF A CENTURY IS LIMITED TO JUST 1,916 NUMBERED AND SIGNED COPIES WORLDWIDE BUY ONLINE AT VOGUE–CENTURY.COM “An exquisitely crafted book that goes right to the heart of Vogue. This will be an anthology like no other” ALEXANDRA SHULMAN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Celebrating Vogue’s centenary with a spectacular collection of classic photographs, illustrations and covers, alongside personal insights from the people who helped to create them. Hand-bound in sumptuous leather, Vogue’s signed limited-edition book will be a collector’s item for generations to come. CECILBEATON 187
- 194. 188 VOGUEINFORMATIONThemerchandisefeaturededitoriallyhasbeenorderedfromthefollowingstores.Someshops maycarryaselection only. Pricesand availability were checked at the time of going to press, but we cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that specific items will be in stock when the magazine is published. We suggest that before visiting a shop you phone to make sure they have your size. In case of difficulty, contact Vogue’s Merchandise Department (020 7499 9080). Where unspecified, stockists are in London or general enquiry numbers are given. IN THE USA: CONDÉ NAST ChairmanEmeritus:S.I.Newhouse,Jr. Chairman:Charles H.Townsend President&ChiefExecutiveOfficer:RobertA.Sauerberg,Jr. ArtisticDirector:AnnaWintour IN OTHER COUNTRIES: CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL ChairmanandChiefExecutive:JonathanNewhouse President:NicholasColeridge VicePresidents:GiampaoloGrandi,JamesWoolhouse,MoritzvonLaffert, ElizabethSchimel ChiefDigitalOfficer:WolfgangBlau President,Asia-Pacific:JamesWoolhouse President,NewMarketsandEditorialDirector,BrandDevelopment: KarinaDobrotvorskaya DirectorofPlanning:JasonMiles DirectorofAcquisitionsandInvestments:MoritzvonLaffert GLOBAL President,CondéNastE-commerce:FranckZayan ExecutiveDirector,CondéNastGlobalDevelopment:JamieBill THE CONDÉ NAST GROUP OF BRANDS INCLUDES: US Vogue,VanityFair,Glamour,Brides,Self,GQ,GQStyle, TheNewYorker,CondéNastTraveler,Allure,ArchitecturalDigest, BonAppétit,Epicurious,Wired,W,GolfDigest,TeenVogue,ArsTechnica, CondéNastEntertainment,TheScene,Pitchfork UK Vogue,House&Garden,Brides,Tatler,TheWorldofInteriors,GQ, VanityFair,CondéNastTraveller,Glamour,CondéNastJohansens,GQStyle, Love,Wired,CondéNastCollegeofFashion&Design,ArsTechnica FRANCE Vogue,VogueHommesInternational,AD,Glamour,VogueCollections, GQ,ADCollector,VanityFair,VogueTravelinFrance, GQLeManuelduStyle,GlamourStyle ITALY Vogue,L’UomoVogue,VogueBambini,Glamour,VogueSposa, AD,CondéNastTraveller,GQ,VanityFair,Wired,VogueAccessory, LaCucinaItaliana,CNLive GERMANY Vogue,GQ,AD,Glamour,GQStyle,Myself,Wired SPAIN Vogue,GQ,VogueNovias,VogueNiños,CondéNastTraveler, VogueColecciones,VogueBelleza,Glamour,AD,VanityFair JAPAN Vogue,GQ,VogueGirl,Wired,VogueWedding TAIWAN Vogue,GQ MEXICO AND LATIN AMERICA VogueMexicoandLatinAmerica,GlamourMexicoandLatinAmerica, ADMexico,GQMexicoandLatinAmerica,VanityFairMexico INDIA Vogue,GQ,CondéNastTraveller,AD PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE: BRAZIL Vogue,CasaVogue,GQ,Glamour,GQStyle RUSSIAVogue,GQ,AD,Glamour,GQStyle,Tatler, CondéNastTraveller,Allure PUBLISHED UNDER LICENCE OR COPYRIGHT COOPERATION: AUSTRALIAVogue,VogueLiving,GQ BULGARIAGlamour CHINAVogue,VogueCollections,Self,AD,CondéNastTraveler,GQ, GQStyle,Brides,CondéNastCenterofFashion&Design CZECH REPUBLIC AND SLOVAKIALaCucinaItaliana HUNGARYGlamour ICELANDGlamour KOREAVogue,GQ,Allure,W,GQStyle MIDDLE EASTCondéNastTraveller,AD,VogueCaféatTheDubaiMall, GQBarDubai POLANDGlamour PORTUGAL Vogue,GQ ROMANIAGlamour SOUTH AFRICAHouse&Garden,GQ,Glamour, House&GardenGourmet,GQStyle THE NETHERLANDSGlamour,Vogue THAILANDVogue,GQ,VogueLoungeBangkok TURKEYVogue,GQ,CondéNastTraveller,LaCucinaItaliana, GQStyle,Glamour UKRAINEVogue,VogueCaféKiev Vogue is published monthly by the proprietors, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. 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Copyright © 2016 THE CONDE NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU VOGUE.CO.UK A Alexander McQueen 020 7355 0088 Alexander Wang 020 3727 5568 Altuzarra.com Anissakermiche.com Annelisemichelson.com Apc.fr Aransweatermarket.com Ashleywilliamslondon.com Ateaoceanie.com B Balenciaga 020 7317 4400 Baumundpferdgarten.com Bottega Veneta 020 7838 9394 Burberry.com C Calvinklein.com Carandache.com Carven 020 7225 7110 Céline 020 7491 8200 Chanel 020 7493 5040 Chloé 020 7823 5348 Christopher Kane 020 7493 3111 Claudie Pierlot 020 7408 1030 Crockettandjones.com D Dior 020 7172 0172 Dolce & Gabbana 020 7659 9000 Dover Street Market 020 7518 0680 E Ermanno Scervino 020 7235 0558 Escada 020 7245 9800 Etro.com F Falke.com Fendi 020 7927 4172 G Gap.co.uk Gianvito Rossi 020 7499 9133 Giorgio Armani 020 7235 6232 Givenchy.com Gucci 020 7235 6707 H H&M 0344 736 9000 Harrods 020 7730 1234 Harvey Nichols 020 7235 5000 Hermès 020 7499 8856 Hillierbartley.com I Isa Arfen 020 3567 0918 Isabel Marant 020 7499 7887 J J&M Davidson 020 3096 2233 James de Givenchy for Taffin, New York 00 1 212 421 6222 Jenniferbehr.com Jennifermeyer.com Jilsander.com Jimmychoo.com Joseph-fashion.com J-w-anderson.com L La Perla 020 7399 0620 Lgrworld.com LK Bennett 020 7637 6731 Lockhatters.co.uk Loewe 020 7499 0266 Louis Vuitton 020 3214 9200 Lulufrost.com M Manoloblahnik.com Margaret Howell 020 7009 9009 Marni 020 7245 9520 Max Mara 020 7499 7902 Michael Kors Collection 020 7659 3550 Miu Miu 020 7409 0900 Moncler.com Mountstreetprinters.com Mulberry 020 7491 3900 N Noorfares.com O Osmanlondon.com P Pacorabanne.com Prada 020 7647 5000 Pringle of Scotland 020 3011 0031 Proenzaschouler.com R Ralph Lauren Collection 020 7535 4600 Roberto Cavalli 020 7823 1879 Rodarte.net S Saint Laurent 020 7493 1800 Scarlet & Violet 020 8969 9446 Selfridges.com Sonia Rykiel 020 7493 5255 T Theofennell.com Tibi.com V Valentino Garavani 020 7235 5855 Versace 020 7259 5700 W Winserlondon.com
- 219. GLASTONBURY Dinder House Only sevenmiles from Glastonbury, Dinder House is a Grade II-listed Regency property that has been sensitively modernised to retain its character. It’s on 21.6 acres, which include a walled garden that’s perfect to linger in on long summer evenings. Price on application. Contact Knight Frank (020 7861 1528) Shenburgh Walberswick is a famously pretty village and has the added bonus of being close to the laid-back Latitude festival. This three-bedroom property has rather idyllic views of the nearby church – little wonder, as it’s right in the middle of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. £920,000 Contact Strutt & Parker (01473 214841) The Little Cottage With Wilderness Festival, the new Soho Farmhouse and the cultural delights of Oxford close by, The Little Cottage in Churchill is a perfect rural bolthole for intellectual mavens. The two-bedroom cottage is only three miles from Chipping Norton, so you never know who you might bump into. £350,000. Contact Butler Sherborn (01451 830731) LATITUDE WILDERNESS
- 221. PEMBRIDGE SQUARE NOTTING HILLW2 A truly exceptional villa commanding a glorious corner position overlooking a wonderful garden square and represents a remarkable fusion of traditional and contemporary. The accommodation offers 8 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 6 shower rooms, 4 reception rooms, kitchen/breakfast room, 2 studies, gym, spa, steam and sauna room, wine store, terrace, balconies, garden, 2 passenger lifts, garage with car lift. Approximately 1,235 sq m (13,285 sq ft). FREEHOLD PRICE ON APPLICATION KnightFrank.co.uk Notting Hill 020 3641 6027
- 223. Great Dunmow: 3miles, Bishop’s Stortford: 12 miles, M11 (Junction 8): 9 miles, Central London: 43 miles 5 reception rooms, master bedroom suite, guest bedroom suite, 10 further bedrooms, games room, wine cellar, gym, billiards room, gardens include a croquet lawn, terraces, parterres, lawns, orchard, parkland, pastureland, woodland, outdoor heated swimming pool with pool house, tennis court, garaging with stores & workshop, 1 bedroom staff cottage. EPCs = D About 47.11 acres I Price on application Classical QuinlanTerry country house GREAT CANFIELD, ESSEX Stephen White Savills Chelmsford 01245 293221 swhite@savills.com Crispin Holborow Savills London Country Department 020 3581 3581 cholborow@savills.com savills.co.uk
- 224. MITCHAMS PARK CAMBRIDGE CB4 LONGROAD, CAMBRIDGE, CB2 8HE Local area photography and show home photography taken at Halo and Mitchams Park. Pricing correct on 31.05.16. A PICTURESQUE CITY TO CALL HOME Imagine spending your weekends browsing boutique stores, dining out at fine eateries or punting along a winding river. Well, living in Cambridge offers all of this and more. With a host of attractions to discover and a vibrant nightlife, you’ll never be bored. You’ll find a selection of museums and galleries in the centre, as well as a variety of restaurants, shops and bars. Strolling around the college museums is the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday or you could enjoy a breath of fresh air and walk along the River Cam. Mitchams Park is within walking distance of all these attractions and what’s more, this collection of modern apartments, houses and townhouses is surrounded by green open space. Each of these stylish homes has a private parking space and cycle storage. The striking Halo development is also positioned in an enviable location. Just off of Long Road, these contemporary homes have been designed to the highest specification and benefit from floor-to-ceiling windows, integrated appliances and an open plan layout. www.crestnicholson.com/new-homes-in-cambridge 01277 693230 Want to find out more about life in Cambridge? Contact the team today… Mitchams Park 2 bedroom apartments priced from £475,000 | 2 bedroom houses priced from £510,000 Halo 1 & 2 bedroom apartments priced from £340,000 | 3 bedroom houses priced from £625,000 4 & 5 bedroom houses priced from £999,500
- 226. Feltercairn House isgreat for house parties
- 227. View of KnoydartPeninsula, Inverness-shire The sporting lodge at Glenelg
- 228. cecilwright.com KINGDOM COME Built byFeadship in 1979, the iconic 60.55m KINGDOM COME was the largest Feadship launched at the time. She underwent a significant refit in 2015, retaining her 9 luxurious en suite cabins. Now exclusively for sale through Cecil Wright Price EUR 14,950,000 VAT Paid Contact Henry Smith: henry@cecilwright.com
- 230. P R OP E RT Y SET SAIL
- 231. The Langley &Tanqueray Penthouses BATTERSEA REACH Computer enhanced image is indicative only. T R U LY B R E AT H TA K I N G Price on Application 020 3603 3941 | batterseareachsales@stgeorgeplc.com www.batterseareach.com Proud to be a member of the Berkeley Group of companies
- 232. Taj Exotica Resort& Spa, Maldives condenastjohansens.com
- 233. The Riverside Penthouse ExquisitelyDetailed with Views to Hurlingham Immaculately designed four bedroom penthouse, with panoramic views of the Thames. Ready to move into now, with pool, gym, steamroom, gardens, car parking and a delightful river attached. Travel by Thames Clippers to the West End or the City. riversidequar ter.com The Sales Galler y, Milliners House, Eastfields Avenue, SW18 1LP 020 8877 2000 Price on Application
- 234. Chocolate sorbet from Gelateria Vivoliin Florence: a scoop a day keeps the psychiatrist away One of the best things about Marrakesh is the intoxicating orange blossom ROBERTOCAVALLI COMPILEDBYNAOMISMART.BRUCEWEBER;TERRYO’NEILL/GETTY;THEESTATE OFJEAN-MICHELBASQUIAT/ADAGP,PARIS/DACS,LONDON/BRIDGEMANIMAGES VENYX GOLD AND DIAMOND RING, £4,900, AT DOVER STREET MARKET ROBERTO CAVALLI PYTHON BOOTS, £1,600 My friend just bought me this David Bowie print by Terry O’Neill. It will hang in my new office 1STDIBS.COM VINTAGE BUBBLE LOUNGE CHAIR, £12,592 THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ROBERTO CAVALLI REVEALS WHAT’S INSPIRING HIM NOW Peter Dundas White jeans, white dinner jacket. White is the black in my wardrobe. Today, both are by Cavalli DIPTYQUE ORANGE BLOSSOM ROOM SPRAY, £36 DUSTHEADS (1982), BY JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT Basquiat makes me emotional SCARLET & VIOLET POPPIES, FROM £30 A BUNCH When I’m at my cottage in the Cyclades, I feel lucky to be alive I have so many favourites, but Led Zeppelin’s “Kashmir” is a biggie… Poppies make me happy LGR SUNGLASSES, FROM £240 mind’sEYE