The document provides a history of makeup use from ancient Egypt through the 1960s. Early makeup used natural dyes and ingredients like ochre, henna and lead that were sometimes toxic. In the 1920s, Coco Chanel popularized dark eyeshadow, red lipstick and suntans. Hollywood stars influenced trends in the 1930s-50s toward thinner lips and arched eyebrows. The 1960s mod look featured doubled eyeliner and pale eyeshadows.

1. HISTORY AND ORIGIN
Archaeological evidence shows the use of castor oil in ancient
Egypt as a protective balm and skin creams made of beeswax, olive
oil, and rosewater by the Romans and Greeks.
Ancient Egyptians used a type of rouge to stain their lips and
cheeks. To create this staining effect they squeezed out purple-red
color from iodine and bromine. Unfortunately, this combination of
deadly ingredients led to serious diseases and came to be known
as ‘the kiss of death’.

3. Women wore white lead and chalk on their faces ,in Greco-Roman society, to whiten
the skin, and kohl to line the eyes.
Persian women used henna dyes to stain their hair and faces with the belief that these
dyes enabled them to summon the majesty of the earth.
The red coloring in makeup was achieved by using red ochre. Ochre has been used
since prehistoric times and is a pigment made from naturally tinted clay - hydrated
iron oxide.
Henna, a dye obtained from the leaves and shoots of the henna shrub and native to
parts of Africa, was used to paint their nails and color their hair. The color and
condition of nails have long been an indication of social status. Henna was also used
as a healing plant and for cleansing and cooling the skin.

4. During the European middle ages, pale skin was a sign of wealth and sixth century
women sought drastic measures to achieve that look by bleeding themselves. During
the Italian Renaissance, lead paint was used to lighten the face, which was very
damaging to the wearer. Aqua Toffana was a popular face powder named for its
creator, Signora Toffana.
From the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century, pale skin was in. Only
prostitutes and lower class women would have dared use color on their lips, cheeks
or eyes. Instead, women painted their faces, necks and chests with a lead and vinegar
mixture known as ceruse. Queen Elizabeth I of England was a well-known user of
white lead, with which she created a look known as "the Mask of Youth" . Women
who used the lead-based ceruse often ended up with muscle paralysis or in their
graves.
European Middle Ages

6. In 1770, the British Parliament passed a law condemning lipstick,
stating that women found guilty of seducing men into matrimony
by a cosmetic means could be tried for witchcraft. The higher
class a person was, the more leisure time he or she had to spend
indoors, which kept the skin pale. European men and women
often used white powder on their skin to look more aristocratic.
Local pharmacists made many cosmetics and common
ingredients included white lead paint, arsenic, mercury and nitric
acid. Additionally, even though women were aware it was
poisonous, belladonna was used to make their eyes appear more
luminous.

7. Victorians abhorred makeup and associated its use with prostitutes and
actresses (many considered them one and the same) and visible hint of
tampering with one's natural color would be looked upon with disdain. As
a beauty regimen, a woman would pluck her eyebrows, massage castor oil
into her eyelashes, use rice powder to dust her nose, and buff her nails to
a shine. Lipstick was not used, but clear pomade would be applied to add
sheen. However some of these products contained a dye to discretely
enhance natural lip color. For a healthy look, red beet juice would be
rubbed into the cheeks, or the cheeks would be pinched . For bright eyes,
a drop of lemon juice in each eye would do the trick.

8. 1900’s-1920’s
In 1909 Gordon Selfridge had opened the first cosmetics counter to allow women
to ‘try before you buy’ and by the 1920s, every pharmacy and department store in
the world had makeup counters. • The real evolution actually began during the
1910's. By then, women made their own form of mascara by adding hot beads of
wax to the tips of their eyelashes. Some women would use petroleum jelly for this
purpose. The first mascara formulated was named after Mabel, the sister of its
creator, T. L. Williams, who utilized this method. This mascara is known today as
Maybelline. During this decade, the first pressed powders were introduced which
included a mirror and puff for touchups.

9. Pressed powder blush followed soon after. The lipstick metal
case, invented by Maurice Levy, became popular. Nivea cream
made its appearance in Germany, and companies, in order to
compete, began creating creams consisting of Vaseline mixed
with fragrance. To help with sagging jowls and double-chins,
women could purchase for wear a weird-looking contraption
with chin straps, which obviously did not work. However, the
Victorian look remained in fashion until mass makeup
marketing came about during the 1920's

10. 1920’s
Striding through our history of makeup, In the 1920s,
Coco Chanel invented the Flapper style, which
embraced dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail polish and the
suntan. Hollywood stars like Clara Bow made the cupids
bow lip popular and the image of the 1920s woman
with her bow lips and dark eyes peering out from under
her cloche hat has defined the look to this day.

11.  Eyes – kohled eyeshadow for the more daring girls
 Eyebrows – Plucked for the first time and drawn downward towards the
temple.
 Lips – lips were smaller than the natural outline and fashioned into the
‘cupid’s bow’ shape.
 Lashes – mascara was the new rage and no woman could resist
enhancing her lashes.
 Rouge – Applied in circles rather than angular. The effect was a
rounded face.
 Nails – The big name was Revlon and the popular style was the ‘moon
manicure’ leaving the tip in painted.

12. 1930’s
The first eyelash curler came on the scene, called Kurlash.
Mascara in cake and cream form was extremely vogue.
Cream eye-shadows began to appear from the big cosmetic
names like Max factor who also launched the decade with his
Lip Gloss and later in 1937 – Pancake water soluble makeup.
Helena Rubinstein launched the first commercial water-proof
mascara in 1939.

13.  Eyes – blues, greens, pinks, purples applied lightly and in pear shapes
beyond the natural eye.
 Eyebrows – plucked out of existence and redrawn in pencil thin lines –
arched more attractively upwards.
 Lips – the cupids bow was replaced by thinner horizontal lines with
upper lips enlarged and fuller. Popular colors are raspberry reds and
maroon.
 Lashes – mascara moved to the lower lashes only which lifted eyes out.
 Rouge -The triangle was the new look and contouring faces was in
vogue.
 Nails – the moon manicure remains and nail and lip colors sold to
match.

14. 1950’s
when conjuring up the 1950s makeup look it’s difficult not to
see the faces of glamorous beauty icons like – Elizabeth Taylor,
Natalie Wood, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn,
Doris Day, Ava Gardner. Skin improvement cosmetics began to
sell as fast as the old traditional ‘face paint’. 1949-50 Hazel
Bishop unveiled to much excitement the first non smear
lipstick. Revlon followed this with their own by own non-smear
lipstick’ in 1953.

15.  Foundation – A cream ivory base, and cream or liquid
foundation near to natural skin color.
 Powders – brushed on flesh colored powder to set.
 Eyes – subtle shadows on lid – taped out to shimmering pale
brow.
 Eyeliner – the wing effect became popular in the 1950s.
 Lashes – subtle and applied usually to the upper lashes.
 Rouges – pastel and rose colors applied to the apple of the
cheek.
 Lips – many tutorials advised creating a ‘smile’ effect with
lipsticks. Achieved by drooping.

18. 1960’s
The iconic 1960s models
Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton
modeled their makeup
products under the banner of
The London Look. There were
three distinct looks in the
1960s, the classic, the mod and
the hippy. The mod look is the
cosmetic look most
remembered from this beauty
era.

19.  Eyes – eyeliner was the most important makeup tool. Instead of
cats eye effect, liner was doubled up at the end of the lid. White
eyeliner drawn down over upper lid to inner corner of eye.
 Eyeshadow – the popular palette was blue, grey and white.
 Eyelashes – placed on both top and bottom for a real retro
‘flapper’ effect.
 Powder – Lots of powder in the early 1960s to just a dab of
translucent by the end of the decade.
 Lips – very pale pinks and reds outlined with a pencil.

20. Prepared by: Camaria School of Locs, Braids & Barbering Technology
Email: camariaschooloflocsjm@gmai.com
Dated: December 27, 2020