Vogue australia october_2016

BOHEMIA
FASHION’S
PEACE, LOVE
& ROCK’N’ROLL
VOGUE CODES
GET WITH THE
PROGRAM
ON TRACK
RACING
STYLE
GUIDE
MILLENNIAL
DOLLAR BABY
JOHN OLSEN
AN INTIMATE
PORTRAIT BY
TIM OLSEN

CHANEL
www.chanel.com1300CHANEL

GIVENCHY.COM
SYDNEY WESTFIELD GOLD COAST PACIFIC FAIR

T H E F U S I O N C O L L E C T I O N

hardybrothers.com.au
1300 231 393
Queen Street, Brisbane
Collins Street, Melbourne
King Street, Perth
Castlereagh Street, Sydney
Chatswood Chase, Sydney
géométrique
Our Géométrique Series explores the
magical equations of the universe
at their most magnificent and
intimate scales.
Behold the geometry of light in this
exceptional Cushion Cut Yellow
Diamond, encircled by beautiful Round
Brilliant Cut Pink Diamonds, and set in
precious 18ct Rose Gold.
A perfect and divine structure.
We invite you to cross the threshold
and explore the poetry of our stunning
I8ct Rose Gold Yellow and Pink
Diamond Halo Ring.

DONCASTER
MELBOURNE CENTRAL
CHADSTONE (OPENING OCTOBER)
DAVID JONES SYDNEY, ELIZABETH STREET
DAVID JONES MELBOURNE, BOURKE STREET

PATRICKDEMARCHELIER
®
VOLLXINo10WholeNo628,*RECOMMENDEDPRICE
COVER
44 EDITOR’S LETTER
50 VOGUE VOX
52 CONTRIBUTORS
54 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU
58 VOGUE180°Paris-based expat
designer Martin Grant.
VOGUE MOOD
65HOLDTRUEWe are what we choose
to obsess, collect and wear this season.
68Slip service; Vapour trail; It’s a sign;
On repeat; Red hot.
72WRITTENINTHESTARSThere’s
a new constellation of astrology
gurus in the ascendancy.
78THISISYOURLIFEWhat’s it like
to be a twentysomething today?
82CLASSICTURNMichael Kors on
rewriting wardrobe classics and why we
need to find the fun in fashion again.
86JOINTHECLUBRising star Sander
Lak brings his impressive fashion CV
to the new It label Sies Marjan.
92ETCHEDINSTONETimes may
change but as Bulgari’s new
exhibition proves, the allure of the
world’s finest jewels endures.
Kendall Jenner wears a Gucci coat, dress and belt. Make-up from
Estée Lauder, starting with Illuminating Perfecting Primer and Double
Wear Nude Cushion Stick Radiant Makeup; on cheeks, Pure Color
Envy Blush in Blushing Nude; on eyes, Pure Color Envy Sculpting
EyeShadow 5-Color Palette in Defiant Nude and Sumptuous Knockout
Defining Lift and Fan Mascara; on lips, Pure Color Envy Sculpting
Lipstick in Insatiable Ivory.
Fashion editor: Paul Cavaco
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Hair: Didier Malige
Make-up: Diane Kendal
Manicure: Megumi Yamamoto
OCTOBER2016
32 OCTOBER 2016

louisvuitton.com
The Spirit of Travel
Beyond Perfume

The Spirit of Travel
Beyond Perfume

BENHASSETTPHILIPSINDEN
STEVENVISNEAU
®
OCTOBER2016
VOGUE RACING
99RIDINGHIGHActress Tessa James
is back in the acting field.
102BESTINSHOWVogue has your
racing fashion schedule covered.
108TAKINGTHEREINSHorseracing’s
leading lady Francesca Cumani.
112ONTRACKTake note from the
designers who know best about
wearing a winner this racing season.
114GOLDSTANDARDFinishing touches
in gilt matelassé.
VOGUE CODES
118TECHITTOTHELIMIT A digital
revolution is ripe for women to boost
their presence in the technology realm.
122DIGITALSAGEFour women
immersed in technology share their
career stories, passion for the
industry and hopes for the future.
129START-UPCENTRALSan Francisco
seems to draw as many would-be
digital moguls as it does tourists.
ARTS
132ONTOPOFTHEWORLD
From the Oscars to Broadway to
a new Tiffany & Co. campaign,
Lupita Nyong’o paves a diverse path.
136TELLINGTALESSinger/songwriter
Holly Throsby is weaving stories of
a new kind.
138SOUNDSANDVISIONSSpring
has sprung in the art world with
plenty of exhibitions, theatre, music
and movies to take in this month.
144PRETTYGRITTYWhy Downtown
Los Angeles is contemporary art’s
new hotbed.
BEAUTY
157ONLYINLA…The latest health and
cosmetic services Los Angelenos are
signing up for.
166TAKETWOReimagining Chanel
No. 5 is a task perfumer Olivier Polge
is taking in his stride.
168BEAUTYBITES
ONLY IN LA …
PAGE 157
VOGUE.COM.AU 33

NICOLEBENTLEYDUNCANKILLICK
EDWARDURRUTIA
®
OCTOBER2016
STAR
GAZING
PAGE 288
SUBSCRIBE TO
VOGUETURN TO PAGE 178 TO
SUBSCRIBE OR RENEW AND
RECEIVE A BONUS SELF-TAN
* (%# )* *(%0
KINDRED
SPIRITS
PAGE 254
LOVE IS
HERE TO
STAY
PAGE 192
172THEMANFROMNARSAs one of
the world’s leading make-up artists,
François Nars has seen it all, and he’s
documented it in his new book.
174MILKITMilk-based formulations that
assist in your pursuit of flawless skin.
176JOINTHECLUBThe rise and rise
of wolf-pack workouts designed to keep
you motivated to exercise.
FASHION
182LEADEROFTHEPACK
Kendall Jenner is the go-to for
the millennial generation.
192LOVEISHERETOSTAYA festival
of sounds, band to band, tent to tent,
good music all the way … Splendour
in the Grass, Vogue style.
236DIALITUPIncrease the volume, add
that little bit extra and stand out.
FEATURES
218SONOFTHEBRUSHGallerist
Tim Olsen gives a rare insight into
his father John Olsen’s powerful
ability and influence.
224THEWAYOFGRACE One of the
biggest changes in legendary stylist
Grace Coddington’s career signals
a new, uncharted chapter in fashion.
230PERFECTHARMONYFive musicians,
five fabulous Gucci looks.
250RAREBIRDSOutsiders in the
fashion world, the sisters behind
American label Rodarte continue to
galvanise the industry.
254KINDREDSPIRITSRising Australian
stars Tilda Cobham-Hervey and Eamon
Farren on their new film Girl Asleep and
their close friendship.
258CATCHTHEMIFYOUCAN
Chasing virtual Pokémon characters
has gripped the nation.
260IMMORTALBELOVEDThanks
to companies better known for IT
than wellbeing, immortality could
be merely an algorithm away.
282 WHERE TO BUY
283 HOROSCOPES
288 LAST WORD
36 OCTOBER 2016

®
EDWINA McCANN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF editor@vogue.com.au
Deputy Editor and Features Director SOPHIE TEDMANSON
features@vogue.com.au
Fashion Director CHRISTINE CENTENERA
Creative Director at Large ALISON VENESS
ART art@vogue.com.au
Art Director MANDY ALEX
Senior Designers BEC McDIVEN DIJANA SAVOR
FASHION fashion@vogue.com.au
Senior Fashion Editor KATE DARVILL
Fashion Editor and Market Director PHILIPPA MORONEY
Junior Fashion Editor PETTA CHUA Market Editor MONIQUE SANTOS Fashion Assistant KAILA D’AGOSTINO
BOOKINGS bookings@vogue.com.au
Photography and Casting Director RIKKI KEENE Bookings Editor DANICA OSLAND
FASHION FEATURES vogue@vogue.com.au
Fashion Features and Content Strategy Director ZARA WONG
Fashion Features and News Editor ALICE BIRRELL
BEAUTY beauty@vogue.com.au
Beauty Editor REMY RIPPON
Health Editor at Large JODY SCOTT Beauty Special Projects RICKY ALLEN
COPY copy@vogue.com.au
Travel Editor and Copy Editor MARK SARIBAN
Deputy Copy Editor and Lifestyle Writer CUSHLA CHAUHAN
Arts Writer JANE ALBERT
Editorial Coordinator REBECCA SHALALA
DIGITAL vogue@vogue.com.au
Commercial Digital Editor ERIN WEINGER
Associate Digital Editor LILITH HARDIE LUPICA Assistant Digital Editor DANIELLE GAY
CONTRIBUTORS
ALICE CAVANAGH (Paris) VICTORIA COLLISON (Special Projects Editor) MEG GRAY (Fashion)
PIPPA HOLT (London) ANDREA HORWOOD-BUX (West Coast) NATASHA INCHLEY (Fashion) EMMA STRENNER (Beauty)
EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS
Digital Assets and Rights Manager TRUDY BIERNAT
Commercial Director, Lifestyle PAUL BLACKBURN National Sales and Strategy Director, Style NICOLE WAUDBY (02) 8045 4661.
Heads of Brand Strategy, Style MERRYN PEARSE (02) 9288 1090 JANE SCHOFIELD (02) 8045 4658.
NSW Group Sales Manager CHEYNE HALL (02) 8045 4667.
NSW Key Account Managers KATE CORBETT (02) 8045 4737. CATHERINE PATRICK (02) 8045 4613. ELISE DE SANTO (02) 8045 4675.
Digital Brand Manager ADRIANA HOOPER (02) 8045 4655. NSW Campaign Implementation Manager KATE DWYER (02) 9288 1009.
NSW Account Executives, Style TESSA DIXON (02) 8045 4744. CHARMAINE WU (02) 8045 4653.
Victoria Sales Director, Style KAREN CLEMENTS (03) 9292 3202.
Victoria Group Business Managers WILLIAM JAMISON (03) 9292 2749. BETHANY SUTTON (03) 9292 1621.
Victoria Account Executive, Style KIERAN FANKHAUSER (03) 9292 3203. Victoria Campaign Implementation Manager REBECCA RODELL (03) 9292 1951.
Queensland Commercial Director, Lifestyle ROSE WEGNER (07) 3666 6903.
Classified Advertising REBECCA WHITE 1300 139 305. Asia: KIM KENCHINGTON, Mediaworks Asia. (852) 2882 1106.
Advertising Creative Director RICHARD McAULIFFE Advertising Creative Manager EVA CHOWN
Advertising Creative Producers JENNY HAYES YASMIN SHIMA
Creative Services Senior Art Directors CARYN ISEMANN KRISTYN JENKINS ROHAN PETERSON
Advertising Copy Editors ANNETTE FARNSWORTH BROOKE LEWIS
Production Manager MICHELLE O’BRIEN Advertising Production Coordinator CARINA NILMA
General Manager, Retail Sales and Circulation BRETT WILLIS
Subscriptions Acquisition Manager MELISSA BLADES Subscriptions Retention Manager CRYSTAL EWINS
Digital Director JULIAN DELANEY Senior Product Manager CASSANDRA ALLARS Product Manager TINA ISHAK
Platform Manager DAVID BERRY Digital Art Director HEIDI BOARDMAN
Marketing Director – Lifestyle DIANA KAY Marketing Manager MELISSA MORPHET Brand Manager MAGDALENA ZAJAC Event Marketing Manager BROOKE KING
Events Manager DANIELLE ISENBERG Marketing Executive RACHEL CHRISTIAN Sponsorship Manager, Style ELLE RITSON
Senior Commercial Manager JOSH MEISNER
Chief Executive Officer NICOLE SHEFFIELD
Director of Communications SHARYN WHITTEN
Group Publisher – Lifestyle NICK SMITH
VOGUE AUSTRALIA magazine is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906). ISSN 0042-8019.
NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178).
Copyright 2016 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. 2 Holt Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. Tel: (02) 9288 3000.
Postal address: Vogue Australia, NewsLifeMedia, Level 1, Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015. Email: editvogueaust@vogue.com.au.
Melbourne office: HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Road, Southbank, Victoria 3006. Tel: (03) 9292 2000. Fax: (03) 9292 3299.
Brisbane office: 41 Campbell Street, Bowen Hills, Queensland 4006. Tel: (07) 3666 6910. Fax: (07) 3620 2001.
Subscriptions: within Australia, 1300 656 933; overseas: (61 2) 9282 8023. Email: subs@magsonline.com.au.
Subscriptions mail: Magsonline, Reply Paid 87050, Sydney, NSW 2001 (no stamp required). Website: www.vogue.com.au.
Condé Nast International JONATHAN NEWHOUSE Chairman and Chief Executive NICHOLAS COLERIDGE President
Condé Nast Asia Pacific JAMES WOOLHOUSE President JASON MILES Director of Planning
VOGUE.COM.AU
Printed by Offset Alpine Printing, 42 Boorea Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141 under ISO 14001 Environmental Certification. Offset Alpine is
committed to environmental improvement by using environmental management systems, continuously introducing environmental initiatives and
benchmarking to globally recognised standards and monitoring. Paper fibre is from PEFC-certified forests and controlled sources.
40 OCTOBER 2016

editor’sLETTER
44 OCTOBER 2016
NICOLEBENTLEYASGERAASKOVMORTENSEN
he last time I attended Splendour in the Grass was some years ago, but I don’t
recall it being nearly as fashion fabulous as our senior fashion editor Kate
Darvill has imagined it in this month’s feature shoot, from page 192. Our
team travelled to the legendary music festival to capture the essence of the
rebellious and celebratory nature of it, which is so in tune with the fashion of
this season. Music and fashion have been happy bedfellows forever, but frankly
I’ve never seen the combination look so good. Don’t miss the portraits of a number of
talented artists who agreed to be photographed backstage by Vogue alongside Australian
model Charlee Fraser, who is making a name for herself on international runways.
In another perfect marriage of music and fashion, we profile five young Australian
musicians who are lucky enough to be blessed with both beauty and incredible musical
prowess, from page 230. Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele is a fan of breaking
the rules and celebrating a quirky individualism. There’s almost a spiritual freedom that
these artists and the designer share, and so it made sense to photograph them in Gucci’s
latest resort collection, which was shown in a renegade manner in Westminster Abbey
in London earlier this year.
As this issue unfolded, it became a riot of colour led by social media and modelling
phenomenon Kendall Jenner, who was styled by Paul Cavaco for our cover on which she
splendidly sits wearing Gucci’s new bohemian cool. This season’s collections invite us all
to break out of black as we head into our Australian summer.
T
V
Charlee Fraser in
“Love is here to
stay”, turn to page
192. Alexander
McQueen jacket,
dress, and
earrings.

editor’sLETTER
46 OCTOBER 2016
PATRICKDEMARCHELIERJAKETERREY
Edwina McCann
Editor-in-chief
The prints and bold colour combinations of the new looks sit perfectly next to the
painterly genius of John Olsen. As John’s retrospective exhibition opens at the National
Gallery of Victoria this month, his son Tim, a friend of mine and Vogue’s, and talented
gallerist in his own right, writes poignantly and beautifully about life growing up with
his artist father.
We also celebrate the creative genius of Grace Coddington whose contribution to the
pages of US Vogue over the past three decades and British Vogue before that as a stylist,
and originally as a model, are unsurpassed. Her vision is now being lent to Tiffany
Co.’s creative direction, too.
This month we will be hosting our first Vogue Codes summit over two days in Sydney.
It is designed to provoke debate and actions to make a career in technology more
fashionable among women. In Australia, women founded only four per cent of tech
start-ups, and make up only 28 per cent of the technology workforce. It’s estimated that
there will be 100,000 new jobs created in the technology space over the next five years
and women will be unable to equally benefit from these new opportunities if we do not
see significant change. Every career will be touched by technology and yet the number
of women graduating with a computer science degree has halved in the past decade. It’s
simply not acceptable. So come along and listen to our keynote speakers and panels, or
join the debate on our social media channels or on Vogue.com.au. Be part of the move
to empower more women with technology.
Kendall Jenner,
in “Leader of the
pack”, from page
182. Michael Kors
coat, pullover,
top and skirt.
Gucci looks in
“Perfect harmony”.
See page 230.

S P R I N G 2 0 16 B Y R O N B A Y S E A F O L L Y. C O M . A U
w e l c o m e t o

vogueVOX
In the USA: Condé Nast
Chairman Emeritus: S.I. Newhouse, Jr.
Chairman: Charles H. Townsend
President and Chief Executive Officer: Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.
Artistic Director: Anna Wintour
In other countries: Condé Nast International
Chairman and Chief Executive: Jonathan Newhouse
President: Nicholas Coleridge
Vice Presidents: Giampaolo Grandi, James Woolhouse,
Moritz von Laffert, Elizabeth Schimel
Chief Digital Officer: Wolfgang Blau
President, Asia-Pacific: James Woolhouse
President, New Markets and Editorial Director,
Brand Development: Karina Dobrotvorskaya
Director of Planning: Jason Miles
Director of Acquisitions and Investments: Moritz von Laffert
Global
President, Condé Nast E-commerce: Franck Zayan
Executive Director, Condé Nast Global Development: Jamie Bill
The Condé Nast group of brands includes:
US
Vogue,VanityFair,Glamour,Brides,Self,GQ,GQStyle,TheNewYorker,
Condé Nast Traveler, Allure, Architectural Digest, Bon Appétit,
Epicurious, Wired, W, Golf Digest, Teen Vogue, Ars Technica,
Condé Nast Entertainment, The Scene, Pitchfork
UK
Vogue, House Garden, Brides, Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ,
Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, Condé Nast Johansens,
GQ Style, Love, Wired, Condé Nast College of Fashion Design,
Ars Technica
France
Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections,
GQ, AD Collector, Vanity Fair, Vogue Travel in France,
GQ Le Manuel du Style, Glamour Style
Italy
Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Glamour, Vogue Sposa,
AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, Wired,
Vogue Accessory, La Cucina Italiana, CNLive
Germany
Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Myself, Wired
Spain
Vogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Vogue Niños, Condé Nast Traveler,
Vogue Colecciones, Vogue Belleza, Glamour, AD, Vanity Fair
Japan
Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding
Taiwan
Vogue, GQ
Mexico and Latin America
Vogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico and Latin America,
AD Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America, Vanity Fair Mexico
India
Vogue, GQ, Condé Nast Traveller, AD
Published under joint venture:
Brazil: Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour, GQ Style
Russia: Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Tatler,
Condé Nast Traveller, Allure
Published under licence or copyright cooperation:
Australia: Vogue, Vogue Living, GQ
Bulgaria: Glamour
China: Vogue, Vogue Collections, Self, AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ,
GQ Style, Brides, Condé Nast Center of Fashion Design
Czech Republic and Slovakia: La Cucina Italiana
Hungary: Glamour
Iceland: Glamour
Korea: Vogue, GQ, Allure, W, GQ Style
Middle East: Condé Nast Traveller, AD, Vogue Café at The Dubai Mall,
GQ Bar Dubai
Poland: Glamour
Portugal: Vogue, GQ
Romania: Glamour
Russia: Vogue Café Moscow, Tatler Club Moscow
South Africa: House Garden, GQ, Glamour,
House Garden Gourmet, GQ Style
The Netherlands: Glamour, Vogue
Thailand: Vogue, GQ, Vogue Lounge Bangkok
Turkey: Vogue, GQ, Condé Nast Traveller, La Cucina Italiana,
GQ Style, Glamour
Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev
Vogue Australia
Subscription rate for 12 issues post paid is $82 (within Australia). Copyright
© 2016. Published by NewsLifeMedia. All rights reserved. Reproduction in
whole or part without permission is strictly prohibited. NewsLifeMedia is a
licensed user in Australia of the registered trademarks VOGUE, VOGUE LIVING
and GQ and has been granted the exclusive right to use those trademarks
in relation to magazines published by NewsLifeMedia by the proprietor
of the trademarks. Printed in Australia by Offset Alpine Printing.
Distributed by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd, tel 1300 650 666.
SEBASTIANKIMJUSTINRIDLEREMMASUMMERTON
CRYSTAL CLEAR
Vogue.com.au spent a week exploring
the world of crystals, chatting to
Miranda Kerr. “I’m loving this new
crystal kick Vogue is on,” said Annette
Williams on Facebook. Missed crystal
week? See hashtags #vogueaustralia
and #crystalweek for more.
@VogueAustralia
Instagrammed the portrait
series of Olympians from the
August issue, photographed
by Justin Ridler. “This is
stunning. The lighting, the
composition, the tones,” said
@alexandra_arielle_photo on
athlete Kelsey-Lee Roberts.
Sporting success
the model and the shot”
– @Meika_wagner_rebel73 on Instagram.
Lily Donaldson
in Rio.
Feeling
reflective on
@glossier
The actress and singer was a hit on our cover.
“Such a beautiful photo shoot,” wrote @ekl99swift
on Instagram. “Obsessed with this cover,” said
@offdutybeauty on Instagram. “Feeling the need to
buy this issue. Nice cover for my collection,” wrote
Wyne Barba on Facebook. “Vogue Australia always
has the best people,” said @ilaayda61 on Instagram.
60 MILLION
96 MILLION
61 MILLION
45 MILLION
followers on
Twitter
#SelenaGomez
has more than
13 MILLION
posts on Instagram
50 OCTOBER 2016

52 OCTOBER 2016
vogueCONTRIBUTORS
MACLAYHERIOTRIKKIKEENEELIZABETHLIPPMANCAROLINEMCCREDIE
TIM OLSEN
For this issue, Tim Olsen has
written the moving piece
about his father, John Olsen,
“Son of the brush”, on page
218. On the upcoming
exhibition of his father’s work
at Melbourne’s NGV, Tim
says: “Each painting is like
listening to a different piece
of music, which transports
me to that place in time.”
photo shoot, from securing photographers to reserving flights.
Shooting on location can be especially tricky. “We started
working on Splendour two months prior,” she says. “It was a
logistical challenge, but lots of fun.” See the outcome of Osland’s
careful coordination in “Love is here to stay” from page 192.
PAUL CAVACO
Paul Cavaco has styled everyone from our October cover girl
Kendall Jenner, to Madonna. “Kendall loves modelling and is
a hard worker,” he says. We just had to ask Cavaco about styling
Madonna’s famous Sex book: “It was hilarious and naughty.
Aside from being a brilliant performer, she’s an amazing model.”

The tide is turning. The sun is high in the sky. And Martin
Grant is enjoying letting the sight and the sound of the sea
engulf him. By Alison Veness. Styled by Philippa Moroney.
Photographed by Hugh Stewart.
Martin Grant
58 OCTOBER 2016
vogue180º
GROOMING:NADINEMONLEY

ven though he has been living in Paris for a few decades
now, Martin Grant is an Aussie alright. We managed to
catch him on a rare visit to Sydney for the launch of the
Qantas pilot’s uniforms, which he redesigned. If you look at
this photograph you will see the miasma of the heat rippling off the
sand as he stares across the Pacific to the horizon. We think he is
contemplating, enjoying this rare moment of escapism, a beautiful
nothingness, a joy and a certain solitude that is only possible right
here. We see him much like a Max Dupain figure: perfectly still, in
the midday sun, stretched out on his deckchair, under a sunshade
captured in his secret spot … He likes to get away from it – the
constancy of designing collections, the hum of his own mind that
is so crowded with clever ideas and wonderful dresses and funny
thoughts. He can be wildly improper, we think, flirting with
danger, but he is the man who can, and does, and so we sit on the
sand in total stillness on this side of the world with him. ■
E
VOGUE.COM.AU 59

1300 36 4810
Montblanc Bohème Day Night

triding and tricked out with trinkets of miniature
books, keys and roses, it was as though the Prada
women were so obsessed with these found objects
they had strung them around their necks, off their
belts, on and around their clothes. “Everything is
symbolic. It is like a collage of what is happy or
painful, of whether you are feeling beautiful or horrible, when
you have love or no love,” says Miuccia Prada backstage at the
Prada autumn/winter ’16/’17 show. “I thought of someone who
has all the clothes she’s ever had on the floor in front of her in the
morning, and she must choose how she’s going to assemble
herself.” These vagabonds, as Miuccia calls them, might have
uncovered these trinkets on their wayward travels, arranging
their collections on their bodies to tell tales of their adventures.
S
We are what we choose to obsess, collect,
and wear this season. By Zara Wong.
DOLCEGABBANAA/W’16/’17
PRADAA/W’16/’17
LOUISVUITTONA/W’16/’17
MARYKATRANTZOUA/W’16/’17
▲
MAISONMARGIELAA/W’16/’17
CHRISTIAN
DIOR
RINGS,
$630 EACH.
MARNIA/W’16/’17
VOGUE.COM.AU 65

COAT COUP
Consider this a call
up: the military coat
has broken rank
and gone wayward,
restructuring itself
to loosen its shape,
elongate at the hem
and get roughed up
at the edges. Wrap
up and run away.
IT IS THE ACT OF
SELECTING, GATHERING
AND ORGANISING THAT
SEPARATES COLLECTABLES
FROM THINGS
CHRISTIAN
DIOR SHOES,
$2,250.
GIVENCHYA/W’16/’17
MARCJACOBSA/W’16/’17
At Paris
fashion
week.
Alexa
Chung in
London.
On the streets
of Milan.
In
Milan.
Collecting is about more than mere stuff. “The artist is a
collector,” explains Austin Kleon, adding: “Hoarders collect
indiscriminately, artists collect selectively.” Today, the collecting of
images happens on Instagram, music on smartphone playlists. The
curation says more about us than single choices. The great
collectors of history include Rudolf II, the Holy Roman Emperor
in the 16th century, whose Kunstkammer had archaeological relics
alongside furniture and antique manuscripts (he also collected
exotic plants and animals for his gardens) – a broad expanse of
taste and knowledge. And collecting need not be exclusive to the
aristocratic or wealthy. Dorothy and Herb Vogel – a librarian and
a postal clerk – amassed one of the most important collections of
modern American art in the 20th century, stored under their bed
and around their one-bedroom New York apartment.
It is the act of selecting, gathering and organising that separates
collectables from things. Taking a leaf from the Alessandro
Michele-for-Gucci book of pastiche econtextualising (for
autumn/winter ’16/’17 he looked to graffiti street art and Catherine
de’ Medici, for starters), the woman this season assembles herself
from her collection of objects from art and travels. There were
Egyptian relics and iconography at Givenchy, translated into
geometric patterns layered with the Eye of Horus, and at Loewe,
models wore oversized resin cat pendants, as though they were
hanging choice pieces from their sculpture collection around their
necks. All the better to go with their metal and leather bustiers.
Just as at Prada, Nicolas Ghesquière’s women at Louis Vuitton
were also travellers inspired by finds. “We had an idea of this trip,
of a woman who could be a digital heroine, like Tomb Raider,
when she discovers an archaeological site,” he said after the show.
Burberry’s energetic textural clash suited the label’s signature
British quirk, as if Christopher Bailey had rifled through a treasure
chest of old fabrics, drawing upon recollections of the past. The
juxtaposition of tchotchkes that evoke the past and the present,
here and away, create the complex weave of fashion today.
Mixing up what is found – fabrics and vestures – is a pastiche
of symbols and recollections; it’s the meaning we imbue objects
with. And having ownership of these objects is an act of
remembering. As philosopher Walter Benjamin best surmises:
“Every passion borders on the chaotic, but the collector’s passion
borders on the chaos of memories.” ■
66 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD

Off the clock
When off duty your
attireshould denote
ademeanour as breezy
asthe slip. Espadrilles
anda carryall telegraph
do-not-disturb vibes.
After eight
The slip dress in its
natural sartorial
habitat is brought
tolife with minimal
extras. A glint of
gilded jewellery and a
vampy stiletto are the
only company needed.
That tissue-thin sliver of
a thing, the slip dress, is worth
obsessing over, as proved by
its 24/7 versatility.
Nine to five
Structured tailoring
provides the template
to be apropos at the
office. A slip slinking
beneath a blazer
avoids being risqué
if paired with a crisp
cotton shirt.
CHANEL EARRINGS,
$960, FROM THE
CHANEL BOUTIQUES.
BURBERRY
BAG, $1,195.
CÉLINE
EARRINGS,
$690.
A.P.C. SNEAKERS,
$240, FROM
WWW.MATCHES
FASHION.COM.
3X1 JACKET,
$1,000, FROM
WWW.EDWARDS
IMPORTS.COM.
LOUIS VUITTON
BAG, $5,000.
CHLOÉ
SHOES, $595,
FROM WWW.
STYLEBOP.
COM.
OLE LYNGGAARD
BRACELETS, FROM
TOP, $2,350, $,2,250
AND $2,350.
Slip
service
JOHNGALLIANOA/W’16/’17
CHRISTIAN DIOR
BAG, $6,300.
SAINT LAURENT
BLAZER, $3,490.
PATEK PHILIPPE WATCH, $35,400,
FROM J FARREN-PRICE.
Getting
inearly
Dialling down the
diaphanous factor is a
must for early morning
engagements. Play it
casual in relaxed codifiers,
denim and sneakers.
MARCO DE
VINCENZO SHOES,
$935, FROM WWW.
NET-A-PORTER.COM.
VICTORIA
BECKHAM
GLASSES, $535.
68 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
WORDS:ALICEBIRRELLPHOTOGRAPHS:INDIGITAL
ALLPRICESAPPROXIMATEDETAILSLASTPAGES

70 OCTOBER 2016
GETTYIMAGESINDIGITALEDWARDURRUTIA
©GUIDOHARARI/CONTRASTO/HEADPRESS
Miuccia Prada’s
fashion brilliance is
well documented,
but on release of
her new scent, the
designer details
her love affair
with fragrance.
By Remy Rippon.
Vapour
trail
ON
FRAGRANCE
VS FASHION …
“Perfume is much
more difficult
because it obliges
you to be even
more honest. In
fashion, you can
play because you
have so many
more occasions and
a variety of ways to
express. With perfume,
I get so nervous
about it: you can’t
play. You can’t be
smart or funny; it is
what it is. You have
to go to the core.”
LA FEMME
PRADA EDP,
100ML FOR
$195.
VOGUE MOOD
1
2
3
5
6
ON HER
FIRST SCENT …
“The first perfume I tried
was based on this one
[Shelley Marks fragrance].
I went to a man with a
piece of the bottle and told
him what I remembered
about it, what was in my
imagination. I tried to
translate the memory
of that perfume. And
actually that was my first
fragrance: Prada Amber.”
ON THE
CHALLENGES …
“What I think is most difficult –
and it’s why at the beginning
of my career I didn’t want to do
perfume – is that I was afraid of
the advertising. That’s because
you have to reduce the whole
fantasy of the perfume down
to an image. To define it in
such a way is really difficult. In
fashion, it is about this person,
somebody who might change
and who you can change very
often. But with perfume you
have to give the impression of
a whole world. And that
is nearly impossible.”
ON CREATING
LA FEMME …
“In general, I like strong
fragrances. And the quality
has to be good. There is an
element of no compromise. In
perfume, quality is particularly
important. Because it’s that
smell, or it just doesn’t work.”
ON WHOM SHE HAD IN MIND WHEN
CREATING NEW SCENT LA FEMME …
“I believe in individuality and I never had an icon that was
a woman. I like many different men and women, but an
icon of style? No, never. Actually, I hate the idea.”
ON HER FIRST FRAGRANCE MEMORY …
“I remember being about 16 and my friend’s mother
had this really incredible perfume. I was obsessed with this
perfume. I would go to her home and smell it in the
bathroom. It was from a little artisanal shop on Madison
Avenue that no longer exists called Shelley Marks. I had
other perfumes, but with that one I really fell in love.”
4PRADAA/W’16/’17
PRADAA/W’16/’17
PRADAA/W’11/’12
Miuccia Prada in
1998 at the VH1
Fashion Awards.

ou have to be careful about dropping the A-bomb into
conversation. Casually inquire after someone’s star sign
at a party, or blame a missed email on Mercury in
retrograde and you make a dangerous gamble. For some,
it will be a bit like announcing you own everything Justin Bieber
has ever recorded, or declaring that the earth is flat. The
evangelical atheist Richard Dawkins reckons astrologers should
be prosecuted. But he would. He’s an Aries.
Few would say they believe in astrology, exactly … it’s more
like a guilty pleasure, an irrationality of choice. Clearly it’s
ridiculous to contend that an ancient Babylonian interpretation
of the movement of the heavens, filtered through a bit of new age
pop psychology, might govern our innermost desires.
Scientists don’t take horoscopes in the least bit seriously. But lost
souls do, more and more. Astrology is ascendant in a way that may
seem surprising in our binary, utilitarian age. Celebrities are
extolling the virtues of the stars with increasing abandon. Lena
Dunham recently announced: “Yes, you can be a very serious and
substantial woman and also allow the planets to rule your soul!”
Cara Delevingne (Leo) has a tattoo of a lion on her hand; Rita Ora
(Sagittarius) has a bow and arrow behind her ear; Rihanna (Pisces)
has two fish on her neck. Yet perhaps this makes sense: famous
people often feel at the mercy of forces they can’t control.
Meanwhile, a new generation is using the stars to chart their
course through an increasingly uncertain world. “It’s not a niche
market but a cultural movement,” according to Aliza Faragher,
co-founder of the Los Angeles-based dating app Align, which
makes matches according to astrological compatibility. Indeed,
from stargazing retreats in Tulum to Gemini hate-memes on
Tumblr (many stemming from the fact that Donald Trump is a
Gemini) and the growing trend for biodynamic food “grown and
harvested according to the phases of the moon,” all things cosmic
are being redefined. How else to explain the six million visitors
to Astrologyzone.com each month, the website of America’s most
popular astrologer, Susan Miller?
“Astrology is wildly popular with millennials,” Ruby
Warrington, British journalist and founder of the website The
Numinous, tells me on the phone from New York, where she’s
now based. The site specialises in “modern cosmic thinking”. “As
our lives become more entwined with technology and we
outsource the job of knowing ourselves to our apps, devices and
machines, a space is being created for a deeper investigation
about what it really means to be human,” she says. The Numinous
offers advice on how to cope with the Mercury retrograde (the
thrice-yearly phenomenon where the transit of the messenger
planet spells earthbound calamity) alongside articles on jewellery
Y
There’s a new constellation of astrology
gurus in the ascendancy. Richard
Godwin charts their influence.
DRIESVANNOTENA/W’16/’17
DRIESVANNOTENA/W’16/’17
ALEXANDERMCQUEENA/W’16/’17
R+CO OUTER
SPACE
FLEXIBLE
HAIRSPRAY,
$42.
VALENTINOA/W’16/’17
Writtenin
the stars
72 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD

look. The locations of objects in the cosmos each
influence a different aspect of your character. Your
sun sign governs your identity, your rising sign is
the face you present to the world (and your fashion
sense), your moon sign represents your more hidden
emotions, and so on.
For some, seeing a high-end astrologer like
Faulkner at Soho House is slightly less burdensome
than seeing a shrink and often as beneficial. The
practice is also gaining intellectual respectability,
claim married astrologers Quinn Cox and Stella
Starsky. He is a puckish Libran, formerly a journalist;
she is a sensual Capricorn, formerly a buyer at Dries
Van Noten. Together they now run a private cosmic
consultancy in Boston for clients including Harvard
professors and Wall Street investors. “They’re
sophisticated, they’re unembarrassed and they tend to be
ambitious,” says Cox.
The pair don’t approve of “playing God” and making
predictions for people’s futures, which they see as
exploitative. “We prefer to use it as a tool for greater self-
awareness, perhaps in addition to cognitive therapy or
meditation,” says Starsky.
They developed their “sexy-smart” style by making charts for
friends after fashion shows, and went on to publish the cult
bestselling book Sextrology (truly, an indispensable
guide to human weirdness). Their main innovation
is to divide the signs into male and female, and in
place of the vague language of newspaper horoscopes,
they are unnervingly specific, right down to
physical details and sexual peccadilloes:
Cancer males have womanly hips, Leo
women like to go on top, Virgo men are
highly controlling, and so on (it gets
filthier). “We maintain that our book can
be read cover to cover as a story of human
nature,” says Starsky. “These are characters
in a mythical archetypal story. I think
younger generations see that more readily
than those into their granny’s astrology.”
Scientists, of course, consider astrology a
pseudoscience, as it begins with a premise
and then seeks evidence to back it up,
making it susceptible to confirmation bias.
We see what we want to see in it. And as
even Cox admits: “After every session we
look at each other as if to say: ‘I have no
idea why this works.’ I just know that once
you buy into the idea of this thing being
real, there are rules, everything is
interrelated, and it’s always right.”
But even with my confirmation-bias goggles on, I find it hard to
get past the embarrassingly accurate description of me in Sextrology.
(I’m Cancer male, Aries moon, Virgo rising, since you ask.) My
habit of flipping my feet when I wake up in the morning, my
loping gait, my pathological need for female approval. “It’s you, it’s
definitely you,” confirms my Aquarian wife, who otherwise
considers astrology the pinnacle of narcissism. And when I supply
Starsky and Cox with my full birth chart for a Skype consultation,
I do begin to fear drowning in my own watery reflection.
They tell me all sorts of things about myself: how the Mercury-
Sun conjunction in my 10th house means writing is the perfect
designers and orgasmic meditation
workshops. “I see all things numinous as
the missing pieces to the wellness craze
that’s sweeping the world,” she says. “You
can drink green juice and do all the yoga
you want, but if you’re not addressing your
emotional and spiritual wellbeing, too, it
will have very little lasting impact.”
The Numinous marks a shift away from
astrology’s more naff associations. Now, it
speaks to meditation, mindfulness, and a wider
“consciousness” movement, used less to predict
the future and more as a means of understanding those endless
subjects of fascination: ourselves.
“Having a birth chart made is personal to you,” says Carolyne
Faulkner, astrologer for Soho Houses around the globe. “It maps
the positions of the sun, moon, planets and other celestial objects
when you were born. No-one in the world has the same one.”
Faulkner is the go-to woman for singers, actors and creative
types who regularly fly her around the world to dispense one-to-
one cosmic advice. And, as she explains, there’s a lot more to it
than with the newspaper horoscopes – as with molecules (and
also Scientology) it all becomes more complicated the more you
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
CLUTCH, $5,790.
MEADOWLARK
NECKLACE,
$705.
VALENTINOA/W’16/’17
RODARTEA/W’16/’17
▲
VALENTINO
DRESS, $2,820,
FROM WWW.
MATCHESFASHION.
COM.
Crystal-
gazing from
British Vogue,
September,
1932.
VOGUE.COM.AU 73
GEORGEHOYNINGEN-HUENEINDIGITAL

career for me, but that a Saturn-Jupiter opposition in my first
house means I am always torn between conforming to the rules
and colouring outside the lines. Am I too much or not enough?
This is apparently a powerful dynamic for me.
There are things about my mother, too, and teenage depression,
and then something “leaps out” at them. “When you were about
19 there’s something totally left of field that happened that you’ve
never been able to explain …” says Cox. Erm, maybe the never-to-
be-repeated gay relationship I had when I was a
student in France? “Okay! Well, yes!” I never tell
anyone about this, I say, not because I’m ashamed
but because it just seems like it happened to a
different person. “You need to embrace it as part
of your healing,” Starsky tells me. “It’s not about
the thing itself, sex or anything like that,” says
Cox. “It’s about the part of you that was available
to that. It was the: ‘Who am I?’ in that situation.”
They advise me to read “Self-reliance”, a 1841
essay by Ralph Waldo Emerson, and move to LA.
I come away feeling dizzy, elated. Perhaps this is
what comes with finally being understood!
Perhaps I’m giving myself licence to express this
now as Starsky says I need to stop retreating into
my cerebral comfort zone and start following my instincts! Later,
I have a comedown. Doesn’t everyone undergo some sort of
transition at 19 or 20? Why did I confess that? But wasn’t their
advice actually quite insightful? Wise even? I’m torn between
wanting to confess more and more and feeling that this inward
journey is dangerous and solipsistic. My Jupiter-Saturn playing
up again.
But as a system of identity, astrology chimes with many modern
modes of thinking, bypassing the politics of ethnicity, gender,
social class, religion and age. Astrology is also redemptive and non-
judgemental, a way of legitimising “you’re weird”. Meanwhile, the
fact that science-minded types find it so appalling makes it all feel
quite subversive, in the way of wearing a tutu to a football match.
AS A
SYSTEM OF
IDENTITY,
ASTROLOGY
CHIMES
WITH MANY
MODERN
MODES OF
THINKING
ALEXANDERMCQUEENA/W’16/’17
GUCCI BAG,
$4,235.
R+CO MOON
SHINE
CONDITIONER,
$36.
BROOKE
GREGSON
CAPRICORN
NECKLACE
$2,280.
One of my favourite astrologers is Victor Vazquez
(aka rapper-artist-novelist Kool A.D.), whose hip-hop
horoscopes for Paper magazine are mocking and deadly
serious at the same time. “I believe in astrology, as much as,
like, anything else,” he tells me. “I find its sort of outsider status
among academics pretty attractive. Mysticism finds its way into
everybody’s thinking whether we’re conscious of it or not.”
Astrology’s popularity with a generation that has grown up
Googling everything makes hella sense, as Kool A.D. might say.
All you need is someone’s birthday, and ideally their precise time
and place of birth, and you can log on to Alabe.com and call up a
sort of Wikipedia page of their soul. “This represents a hugely
empowering shift away from the astrologer as a guru figure,
placing the answers firmly in the hands of the individual,” says
Warrington. Our online interactions are mediated by the
great gods of big data in any case, and archetypes aren’t so
different from algorithms. (“If you liked this Taurus, you
might also like these Capricorns!”). They’re also a lot
more, well, human. Why is my boyfriend such a control
freak? He’s a Virgo. Why is the world so messed up at
the moment? Mercury is in retrograde.
And without discounting the influence of genetics and
culture and education and so on, is it really so implausible
that the time of year that you were born has some
influence on your character? The moon governs the
tides and creates tiny signatures in the form of pearls –
moon-like emanations formed by the sea washing over
oyster beds. Pretty! Might it not have some tiny effect on our
moods, too? But then you reach the limits of the theory. The idea
that Pluto, a minuscule rock 4.5 billion miles away, has any effect
on our actions is absurd. But, as Albert Camus argued, only by
recognising the absurd can you be free.
In his autobiography, Speak, Memory, Vladimir Nabokov
relates an episode that I have always found instructive. When he
was a young boy, his father took him to say how-
do-you-do to a famous general. The military man
shows him a trick, arranging some matches in the
shape of a boat, but then an aide-de-camp
interrupts. The Russo-Japanese war has broken
out and the general is needed at the front.
Nabokov never sees the end of the trick. Many
years later, his father is fleeing the Bolsheviks
when a peasant approaches him at a railway
station and asks for a light. It turns out to be the
general in disguise. The meeting itself isn’t of
much interest to Nabokov. “What pleases me is
the evolution of the match theme … the following
of such thematic designs through one’s life should
be, I think, the true purpose of autobiography.”
And of life itself, perhaps? These thematic designs run through
all of our lives, irrespective of who or what we think is doing the
designing. Consciousness is the gift that allows us to notice these
signs and symbols. It’s one of our highest callings, therefore, to
train our senses and faculties to appreciate them all the more,
from the tiniest pearl to the phases of the moon.
Jung referred to astrology’s “synchronicity principle” – its
meaningful coincidence. He did not believe that the planets
literally cause us to act in certain ways. But they do provide a set
of coordinates that allow us to slip out of the world of emails and
alarms and into the realm of myth and poetry. It doesn’t have to
be empirically true. It doesn’t even need to signify anything.
Perhaps it just needs to be beautiful. ■
74 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
INDIGITAL

SWALLOWS
MOON PHASES
EVIL EYE
TEAPOT
PANTHER
BUTTERFLIES
SERPENT
FLAMINGOS
GUCCIA/W’16/’17
PRADA BAG,
$4,370.
ALEXANDERMCQUEEN
A/W’16/’17
MARYKATRANTZOUA/W’16/’17
GUCCIA/W’16/’17
MIUMIUA/W’16/’17
DOLCEGABBANAA/W’16/’17
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
CUFF, $555.
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
BROOCH,
$455.
76 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
INDIGITAL

What’s it like to be a twentysomething
today? Here’s a window into this
generation’s psyche in all aspects of life.
This is your life
RELATIONSHIPS
Dating is best done in summer.
Rooftops and outdoor venues
have more exit options than the
lengthy winter dinner. Our friends
met on Tinder, but they had friends
in common anyway, so why delay
the inevitable? Everyone hates
the “what are we?” conversation.
Weddings are fun but it’s hard
to imagine going from multiple
dates to venue hire anytime
soon. Couples have a hard time
wrestling with the morals of the
wedding tax every vendor slaps
on their services when they know
nuptials are involved. When 30
looms, we’ll nevertheless pay up.
BEAUTY AND HEALTH
We reject contoured Instagram selfies but stop-start
YouTube make-up tutorials to get ready for espresso
martinis on a Saturday night, before regretting that
we pre-booked a Sunday morning aerial yoga and post-
workout green juice, which looks better than it tastes. We
try fitness trends as often as we change our cotton Calvin
Klein underwear (thank goodness for ClassPass) and feel
somewhere between inadequate and inspired into a daily
fitness regimen by #transformationtuesday Instagrams.
Some days that motivation will only go so far as donning
Lululemon tights and heading to the farmers’ market.
Technology
The phone is the new
car because now it’s our
smartphones that provide us
with the ease of getting about, of
keeping in contact and staying
social. We’ll be the first to claim
we’re not really addicted to
technology – except for the daily
instances of checking our emails
then falling into a two-hour
Instagram stalking hole. We
haven’t updated our Facebook
status since our parents joined
and Snapchat is mildly amusing.
We know social media is
self-curated, but regardless we’re
still willing to comply with it.
78 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD

SHOPPING
We have just about as
many options on our
Net-a-Porter wish list
as we do tabs open on
our iPads. Back-in-stock
updates litter our work
inbox (the new Re/
Dones will be sold out
by the time we check
our personal Gmail).
We sit in bed late and
trawl Instagram for new
labels until our eyes
begin to water and it’s
1am. There’s nothing
like buying something
overseas so no-one has
it back home, and
physical stores are the
only way to go if it’s
jeans or swimwear we
need. Topshop and
Zara offer instant hits.
STYLE
Our big-ticket items are accessories like a Chanel
quilted handbag or a Balenciaga leather jacket.
We’re told we need to invest in our clothes, but
chain stores are far too fun. Even when we found
ourselves accidentally dabbling in normcore
– unironically – we are still finding our style
personalities. We’d like to think we’re unique
and that our choices reflect what we’re like.
Some of us may have reached the stage where
we think we need to dress our age, or project
our professional aspirations, but when we’re still
paying rent or living with our parents it’s hard to
define what dressing like a grown-up really is.
HOUSING
Because social media is all-pervasive, interiors are a must-do
hobby, but to make our living quarters Instagram-able we
decorate as we dress: mixing Tom Dixon and Thonet with
Ikea and Muji. We talk about housing prices with friends and
congratulate the few who are new homeowners, knowing most of
them had help from parents (we rarely talk about that). Living with
parents was a way to save for the deposit, and those who rent
know the joys of share houses. Some of us returned home. Those
who have bought don’t live in their places and rent them out to
make repayments, but at least they’re on the property ladder.
Holidays
The gap year is part of Australian lore,
and if we didn’t make it happen the
year we left school we still think it’s
something we are entitled to do. Our
island location stimulates a hunger for
the peripatetic life. We Airbnb when
we go away to counterbalance the
financial sting of a holiday, some of
which, try as we might, ends up on
credit. We’ve been to Asia and are
saving for New York. If that doesn’t
happen we’ll probably end up in New
Zealand or Hawaii. Our friends keep
telling us we have to see Japan.
appalled if restaurants don’t split bills,
but accept credit card surcharges – few
of us carry cash.
CAREER
We told ourselves we weren’t going to
work in offices, and here we are. Some
of our friends have moved overseas. It
sounds glamorous, but they’re doing
more of the same. Others have quit the
cubicle life for the start-up life, regaling
us about it with smug smiles. We were
told we could be whatever we wanted,
but our HECs debts say otherwise.
Down time
It’s all about finding somewhere
new to humblebrag about – a new
bakery with farm-to-table produce,
a bar that distils its own whisky.
We save long-form articles from the
New Yorker to read later, but end
up finding ourselves on Buzzfeed or
watching a Tastemade video. No-one
will ever admit to not knowing about
the politics both in Australia and
the US even if you have a passing
knowledge at best. Everyone has a
faux-intellectual opinion on Brexit.
VOGUE.COM.AU 79
WORDS:ALICEBIRRELLREMYRIPPONZARAWONG
PHOTOGRAPHS:INDIGITAL

For Aje designer Edwina Robinson her core piece, a leather jacket,
taps a personal duality. “I’m petite and quite feminine and there is
something about the weight and toughness of leather that adds a
sense of strength,” says Robinson who owns eight. “I am stronger on
the inside than I look on the outside.”
“It’s a comfort blanket. Knowing something will work,” says model
and actress Dree Hemingway of her fearlessly faithful style. She
revisits grey cashmere knits and vintage jeans ad infinitum. “You
miss out on the exploration of a different style but I never regret it.”
For those afraid of uniformity, contributing British Vogue
editor Laura Bailey, also a steadfast denim die-hard, finds
expression within the confines of her beloved staples. “Ever-
evolving styles – like Levi’s embroidered and cropped
updated 501s – feed my desire for the new,” she explains.
“The pull of denim for me is also attached to the allure of
icons like Lauren Hutton and Debbie Harry, plus a
romanticism of America, cowboys and road trips.”
Recurrent pieces allow eclectic dresser Pandora Sykes to
colour within the lines without getting stuck in a cycle of
■
T
On repeat
HIT LIST
Vintage shirts
are on call
constantly for
Pandora Sykes.
80 OCTOBER 2016
KRISTAANNADAISYHOFSTETTERLEWISKAYLAPERKINEVAKSALVIINSTAGRAM.COM/
DREELOUISEHEMINGWAYINSTAGRAM.COM/VERONIKAHEILBRUNNER
VOGUE MOOD

Designer Michael Kors
?B5GB9D97 G1B4B?25
31CC93C 14 G8I G5
554D? 694 D85 6E
961C89? 1719
By Zara Wong.
Classic
DEB
FACTS AND
FIGURES
WHAT
GOES INTO
MAKING
A RUNWAY
LOOK.
70
HOURS
to make
a feather-
embellished
tweed coat.
2,230
BEADS
for a
mini-dress.
5,000
FEATHERS
for the cocktail
dress.
560
HOURS
to make
sequinned
pants.
A mink
coat is
patchwork,
not dyed.
82 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD

lake Lively is on the front row of
Michael Kors, looking how you
would expect Blake Lively to look
at New York fashion week,
pushing through the morning winter
blizzard in a sequined sheath gown and a
coat. Sequins for daytime? Sure, why not?
In Kors’s world, it’s cropped denim strewn
with crystal and feather frippery, or as
seen here in the pages of Vogue, the street-
sport shape of a zip-up hoodie made in
luxurious tweed – with a matching skirt
to finish. “Brocade to the office,
sweatshirts at night – I don’t think my
customers pay attention to time of day
either,” says Michael Kors in his midtown
New York office. It’s a comment on how
women are dressing today, and the ethos
of his show – wardrobe classics elevated.
That elevation is achieved by way of
textures and fabrics that epitomise the fun
and frivolity of fashion, such as ostrich
feathers, furs and sequins.
Within his witticisms and quick quips
lies a designer who explores season after
season how women want to dress – it’s
themselves, but better.
“Look at Jackie Kennedy – everyone says
she was so consistent, but she actually
went through lots of changes in how she
dressed, changing proportions and
lengths, always clean lines and never a lot
of print or pattern.” He’s cracked the code
of how to identify a sense of style. “And
the reality is in today’s world everyone’s
a movie star, because everyone has too
1,800
FEATHERS
for
the skirt.
4,000
FEATHERS
for an extravagant
evening dress.
1,300
OSTRICH
FEATHERS
for the jeans.
2,100beads for the
evening
pants.
36,000
CRYSTALS
BEADS
for the finale
brocade dress.
“I FEEL LIKE WE’VE
FORGOTTEN THE
WORD CHARMING.
AND FLIRTY …
WHY NOT HAVE
A LITTLE FUN?”
▲
VOGUE.COM.AU 83
B
FASHIONEDITOR:PHILIPPAMORONEY
PHOTOGRAPHS:DUNCANKILLICKGETTYIMAGES
INDIGITALHAIR:DIANEGORGIEVSKI
MAKE-UP:MOLLYWARKENTIN
MODEL:RUBYCAMPBELL

86 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
PHOTOGRAPHS:OLIVERHADLEEPEARCHSITTINGSEDITOR:KARENKAISER
HAIR:ILKERAKYOLMAKE-UP:SUSIESOBOLDETAILSLASTPAGES
Join the clanRising design star Sander Lak
brings his impressive fashion CV
to the new It label Sies Marjan.
By Sarah Mower.
ver since that freezing day during February’s New York
fashion week when a bundled-up audience had their pulses
raised by the first sight of the Sies Marjan collection, the
early spotters have been practising their pronunciation. It
will be essential to get it right, after all, when you murmur a subdued
“Sies Marjan” to the umpteenth admirer who wants to know who
made the prettily twisted floral-sprigged dress you’re wearing.
“It’s Sees Mar-jahn,” says Sander Lak with a direct smile and an
untraceable English-European accent. “It’s my parents’ first
E
All clothes by
Sies Marjan.
▲

WOLFORD BOUTIQUE, 15 Collins Street, Melbourne, Ph 61 3 9650 1277
WOLFORD by APPOINTMENT, MO - FR, 96 Toorak Road, South Yarra,
Ph 61 3 9820 0039 · www.wolfordmelbourne.com

88 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
OLIVERHADLEEPEARCH
names together.” The gangly-limbed
creative director of Sies Marjan, his
shirt perpetually half tucked in, is a
former head of design at Dries Van
Noten, which partly explains the
clamour surrounding his debut in
the crumbling splendour of the art deco
penthouse of Tribeca’s 100 Barclay
building. A faded landmark currently
under renovation, the space made an
almost symbolic setting for Lak’s
tousled-romantic aesthetic, a line-up
of intricately cut spiralling dresses,
slouchy pants with cargo pockets,
skinny-sloppy knits and falling-off-
the-shoulder drapery, all spiked with
a brilliantly offbeat sense of colour.
Lak himself – Dutch by birth, with
a childhood spent in Borneo,
Malaysia, Gabon, Scotland and
Amsterdam before he completed his
studies at Central Saint Martins –
comes across as a kind of world
citizen, his arrival unfettered by
notions of national borders and
business shibboleths of how clothes
should be designed and marketed. “I
don’t see age or skin or culture as any
sort of category,” he says. “I’m trying
to create my own culture, a clan.”
Like Demna Gvasalia at Vetements
and Balenciaga – albeit with a
diametrically different aesthetic – Lak
belongs to the rising generation of
designers who have spent the past
decade or so working in the back
rooms of big fashion houses and are
now emerging in their own right.
Turning up at a time when the fashion
scene is pretty much in chaos only
adds to their feeling of opportunity.
“That’s what’s amazing!” says Lak. “It
feels like there are no rules now, that nobody can say what’s right
anymore. We can do it our way.”
His way is at once grounded, spiked with humour and a passion
for quirky colour, and marked by total precision. “I started by
looking at old clothes; the cargo pants came from thinking about
what the cool girls, who I could never be friends with, wore when
I was in high school in Amsterdam in the 90s,” he says, laughing.
“Then I look at colours individually, fine-tuning them. And we
really worked on fabric: a jacquard with a mountain scene, an
old-school Fortuny fabric that was very difficult to make, and
a flower print like a cheap shower curtain.”
The resources, along with the rare luxury of time to put all that
together, come from the fact that Sies Marjan is an enterprise
backed by financier Howard Marks and his wife, Nancy, who
headhunted Lak to take over the studio and the sewing atelier once
occupied by the Chado Ralph Rucci collection. “We needed a year
to build a campaign and a culture, to work out what is our basic fit,
the scale of sizing and proportion,” Lak
says. “Normally you design something and
figure that out later, after the samples are
made.”
Lak’s talent extends to a gift for interior
design. The wall opposite the elevator at
the Sies Marjan studio has been hung with
20th-century amateur portrait paintings,
and he’s decorated the vast salon-like reception areas with
brilliantly upgraded furniture – a couch re-covered in fluffy white
shearling with pink fake-fur cushions tossed on it, a 70s glass table
– and banks of bookshelves. “I love fake versions of iconic furniture.
I bought a fake Ludwig Mies van der Rohe chair in a terrible plastic
and had it reupholstered in carpet,” he says. “I’ve got a leather
couch with fake- and real-fur pillows. And plants; I have to have
plants.”
Lately he’s been working overtime in New York putting his new
Chelsea apartment together. “I’m so excited: I’m going to live in
an old ballroom! My first grown-up apartment!” There’s just one
other thing Lak is looking forward to. Unfazed by the sudden
acclaim, and the whirl of Sies Marjan being instantly snapped up
by retailers (Barneys New York and Matchesfashion.com among
them), he says that “the best moment will be when I see someone
in the clothes; someone who I don’t know, who has spent her own
money. I’m going to walk up to her and just say: ‘Thank you.’” ■
“WHEN I SEE
SOMEONE IN THE
CLOTHES, I’M GOING
TO WALK UP AND
SAY: ‘THANK YOU’”
Sander Lak in his
Manhattan apartment,
with accents including
an original Hans
Wegner chair and
vintage lamp from
1stdibs.

THE NEW MINI CONVERTIBLE.
STAY OPEN.
TURN HEADS IN A BREEZE.

recious antique jewellery, love-worn, cared for and
treasured isn’t anything new. It doesn’t signal an exciting
new tremor in fashion or a seismic shift, and it won’t have
Instagram influencers hyping its arrival in Australia. But
for an archivist enmeshed in 132 years of history, new discoveries
are not only a result of putting together an exhibition spanning
more than 80 years, but also a stirring and serendipitous
journey. “There are always surprises in this job,” explains
Bulgari’s brand and heritage curator Lucia Boscaini, who cites
as an example a rare Bulgari tiara the house had presumed lost.
“We knew that a couple of very important earrings of Elizabeth
Taylor’s were purchased at a Christie’s auction by a museum in
Doha, so for this exhibition we approached them. We discovered
that decades ago they acquired a very rare and precious Bulgari
tiara dated 1925 to 1930,” she says. “We had only heard of
this tiara in platinum and diamonds. We didn’t have any idea it
would still be around, let alone that it was in a museum.”
The intricate piece will make its display debut in Australia,
never before seen alongside the 80-plus-piece collection that
opens at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne on
September 30. Italian Jewels Bulgari Style will allow audiences
a likely never-to-be-repeated look at the jeweller’s rich and
meticulously preserved archives – in part because sourcing some
of the priceless pieces means synthesising loans from myriad
private collections and museums worldwide and, if needs must,
returning them promptly afterward to their rightful homes.
Being able to do this, Boscaini says, requires skills akin to
a detective. “I always feel like the Sherlock Holmes of antique
jewellery,” she says laughing. For Bulgari, this includes
documenting as many purchases as possible, leaning on personal
relationships with clients built through generations, stalking the
sales catalogues of prestigious auction houses lest a rare piece
P
Times may change but as
Bulgari’s new exhibition proves,
jewels endures. By Alice Birrell.
Etched
in stone
BULGARI
HERITAGE
COLLECTION
GOLD SAUTOIR
SET WITH
YELLOW
AND BLUE
SAPPHIRES,
AGATE,
CITRINES AND
DIAMONDS.
BULGARI HERITAGE COLLECTION
GOLD NECKLACE, 1967, SET WITH
RUBIES, SAPPHIRES, EMERALDS
AND 22.5 CARATS OF DIAMONDS.
BULGARI
GOLD
SNAKE
BRACELET
AND WATCH,
1965, WITH
DIAMOND-
SET EYES.
BULGARI GOLD
MELONE EVENING
BAG, 1980, SET
WITH SAPPHIRE
THUMBPIECE.
BULGARI HERITAGE
COLLECTION
GOLD PENDANT
EARRINGS, 1967,
SET WITH RUBIES,
EMERALDS,
SAPPHIRES AND 7.5
CARATS OF
DIAMONDS.
BULGARI
HERITAGE
COLLECTION
TUBOGAS
GOLD
CHOKER,
1980.
Sophia
Loren
Keira
Knightley
wearing
vintage
Bulgari (and
below) at
the 2006
Academy
Awards.
92 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
IMAGESCOURTESYOFBULGARI
▲

they come to our store in north London, it
could highlight an important antique jewel.”
Beyond the jewels themselves, Boscaini hopes
the exhibition will also reveal the romance of the
personal minutiae running through the house’s
history. The multibillion dollar company – bought in
2011 by LVMH for US$6 billion – was built on Italian
amicizia; friendship. The descendants of founder Sotirios
Voulgaris (Italianised to “Bulgari” after moving to Rome from
Greece in 1881), Gianni, Nicola and Paolo Bulgari, established a
level of service that blurred the line between friend and shop
owner and set an admirable benchmark in the 1950s and 60s.
Taylor, along with legendary actresses like Anita Ekberg,
Ingrid Bergman, Audrey Hepburn and Gina Lollobrigida,
frequented the brand’s Via dei Condotti store in down time
between filming at the famed Cinecittà studios with iconic
directors like Federico Fellini and Michelangelo Antonioni.
As a result, many Bulgari pieces – be they bought by
paramours or purchased on an actress’s salary – wound up on
screen. Taylor wore Bulgari in The V.I.P.s, Boom! and Ash
Wednesday, among others, and famously on the set of Cleopatra.
Actresses showcased their new purchase in a way that isn’t seen
much today due to the roles of Hollywood stylists and costume
designers. Wittingly or not, those actresses immortalised love
affairs, scandals and the spoils of being A-list on screen.
The Bulgari signature – unhampered creativity, a flair for
colour and hunger for innovation – was forged in parallel with
the hotbed of creativity that was Cinecittà in the exuberant
post-war years. To examine these pieces up close is to take
in first-hand a multi-faceted piece of history. There are the
tremblant brooches, so-called because of the complex springs
that house the diamonds, allowing them to quiver prettily; the
monete, robust gold chains inlaid with ancient coins as homage
to Roman roots; and decadently coloured parures – a set designed
to be worn together – like the raspberry and blue cabochons of
rubies and sapphires clustered on a weighty necklace dated 1967,
then worn by Keira Knightley at the 2006 Academy Awards.
That fascination with celebrities and the way they chose to
accoutre their lives endures, and is something Boscaini and the
NGV curators understand. Via photographs, film and the pieces
themselves, Italian Jewels reminds us that those twinkling orbs
on stars, who are so often broken down by social media, restore
a certain old-world mystery to their demeanour, even if just for
a brief moment. Boscaini hopes attendees will discover this. “It is
written in the word, because in Italian gioelli is jewellery and
happiness is gioia – joy, so happiness is the root for jewels. That’s
what I believe has to be the measurement of achievement that we
get through this exhibition; that people will feel joyful.” Faced
with jewels of immeasurable value, it would be impossible not to.
Italian Jewels Bulgari Style, September 30 to January 29, 2017, at
the National Gallery Victoria. Visit www.ngv.vic.gov.au.
SERVICE
THAT
BLURRED
THE LINE
BETWEEN
FRIEND
AND SHOP
OWNER
BULGARI GOLD BRACELET,
1960, SET WITH SAPPHIRE
SAND DIAMONDS.
BULGARI GOLD NECKLACE,
1973, WITH GOLD COINS
DATING FROM THE 16TH
CENTURY. WORN BY
ANNE HATHAWAY ON
THE RED CARPET.
BULGARI GOLD
NECKLACE, 1975,
SET WITH ROMAN
IMPERIAL CORNELIAN,
NICCOLO, JASPER AND
SARDONYX INTAGLIOS.
ABOVE: BULGARI
HERITAGE
COLLECTION
GOLD FLOWER
BROOCH, 1945,
SET WITH
SAPPHIRES,
RUBIES AND
DIAMONDS.
BULGARI
PLATINUM
TREMBLANT
BROOCH, 1958, SET
WITH 46.5 CARATS
OF DIAMONDS.
94 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE MOOD
IMAGESCOBULGARI

96 OCTOBER 2016
INSTAGRAM.COM/KACYHILLWARD+KWESKIN
Red hot
ou don’t have to be tuned into the giant pop machine
or follow shows like The Voice and X-Factor to know
that becoming the Next Big Thing is not an easy road.
More often than not, the winning recipe involves
talent, tenacity or luck (and a lot of it). In Kacy
Hill’s situation, a talented, tenacious, Los Angeles-
based musician who has gone from Kanye West’s
backup dancer and model to musical protégée, she’ll
be the first to admit that she is luckier than most.
Warm and animated, with translucent, freckle-
adorned skin and a sharp, flame-toned bob, this
Arizona-born singer, whose style can be described
as “Gucci-esque” (though she is a face of the
Calvin Klein autumn/winter ’16/’17 campaign)
has the kind of pinch-me backstory many
musicians would sell their soul at the crossroads
for. After moving to LA and picking up a steady
stream of American Apparel modelling work, Hill
was clocked by West’s artistic collaborator and choreographer,
celebrated artist Vanessa Beecroft, and cast as a “backup
model”, a non-dancing dancer, for the Yeezus tour.
“I learned a lot from working with Vanessa,” she says. “She’s
unapologetic and I think that’s what it takes to be an assertive
female in the world. Kanye is similar; they’re both very much
Y
Kanye West’s latest protégée and a new
face of Calvin Klein, former backup dancer
and model Kacy Hill tells Noelle Faulkner
what she learned from Yeezus and why
she’s much more interested in other people.
VOGUE MOOD
about believing in yourself and your ideas.” Inspired, Hill, who
had just started making her own music, quit after one leg to focus
on fine-tuning her own output, from her sound to her songwriting
and style. “I think what I’ve taken from working with artists like
Vanessa and Kanye is knowing your idea is worth something and
that you’re of value,” she says.
Hill must have made an impression, because West soon got
wind of her ethereal-pop side-hustle and the 22-year-old then
found herself in Atlantic City signing on the dotted line with
G.O.O.D Music (Getting Out Our Dreams), West’s record label.
This musical foray into soaring falsettos, intelligent phrasing and
cinematic-like spaces (not unlike Banks, FKA Twigs, James Blake
and Låpsley) is not the singer’s first – Hill was a classically trained
oboe player from childhood. “I wasn’t really happy [just playing
the oboe],” she says. “But the moment I combined
my love of writing and music, I knew what I needed
to be doing. I think classical gave me a better ear
and taught me the foundations for music, it’s just
that songwriting is more intuitive.” Set to drop her
debut album any day now, Hill’s process is full of
intent and is directly inspired by old journal entries,
experiences and her LA surroundings – what you
hear is what she sees. “I’m really interested in
people,” she muses. “I’m an avid people-watcher.
That’s what inspires me the most – everyday human
life. Especially the American dream, suburban
stuff.” Which LA lends itself quite well to. “It really
is insane the amount of people here who are
following a dream, or searching for a break – there are so many
stories,” she shrugs. “It sounds so silly, but I just think listening
to someone else’s story is just the most beautiful, romantic and
inspiring thing – that’s what I like: existing.” ■
Kacy Hill’s debut album will be released in October through
G.O.O.D Music/Def Jam/Universal Music Australia.
“I’M AN AVID
PEOPLE-
WATCHER.
THAT’S
WHAT
INSPIRES
ME THE
MOST”
Clockwise from
left: Kacy Hill;
with Kanye West;
modelling for Calvin
Klein; in California.

JOIN VOGUE AND A TEAM OF
GLOBAL INDUSTRY EXPERTS TO
FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN PLAY A
PART IN THE DIGITAL REVOLUTION.
VOGUE
HOW WOMEN CAN
BE EMPOWERED
BY TECHNOLOGY
CODES
VOGUE INVITES YOU
THE FIRST-EVER VOGUE CODES SUMMIT:
INTERNATIONAL SPEAKERS
PANEL DISCUSSIONS
PRESENTATIONS
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 14, 2016
8:30AM-5:30PM
LEVEL 28, WESTPAC,
200 BARANGAROO AVENUE,
BARANGAROO, SYDNEY
SPACES ARE LIMITED
BOOK NOW
VOGUE.COM.AU/VOGUECODES
EDWINA MCCANN,
editor-in-chief,
Vogue
KATHRYN PARSONS,
co-CEO,
Decoded
AMBER VENZ BOX,
president,
rewardStyle
ZARA WONG,
content strategy
director, Vogue

VOGUE.COM.AU 99
HAIR:DIANEGORGIEVSKIMAKE-UP:MOLLYWARKENTIN
Actress Tessa
James is right
on track in
the acting
field. By Jane
Albert. Styled
by Philippa
Moroney.
Photographed
by Duncan
Killick.
Riding
high
vogueRACING
Tessa James wears
a Gucci dress,
$2,965, and shoes,
$2,235. Nerida
Winter hat, $165,
from a selection at
Myer. Longines
watch, $2,075,
worn throughout.

Greatest
hits DUNCANKILLICK
VOGUE RACING
here was plenty of darkness while
Tessa James was undergoing
invasive treatment for Hodgkin’s
lymphoma, but there was also the
odd moment of levity. A particular
favourite was the day James implored her
husband, Nate Myles, to go horse riding
with her.
The actress has had a lifelong affinity for
horses, a result of her upbringing in semi-
rural Victoria where she regularly attended
pony club. When she was diagnosed in
2013, she found herself drawn to horses
once more, discovering they brought her
some peace. One of her goals during
treatment was to go riding with Myles,
only to have him refuse point blank, the
result of a nasty childhood encounter.
“When I wasn’t well I had a list of fun
things to do, as I’d go for treatment every
two weeks and for five days I’d feel awful.
I said I wanted to go and ride horses, as
they’re known for being therapeutic and
healing. But he said he wouldn’t do it. I
made him come with me, but he wouldn’t
even go up to the horse and pat it!”
James did manage to help Myles
overcome his fear of horses, but the sight
of the muscular professional rugby league
player sitting rigid with fear while being
led slowly on a rope still makes her giggle.
Her love of horses had another upside:
earlier this year she was invited to help
launch luxury watchmaker Longines’s
new equestrian collection and was flown
to the Royal Ascot races in England and
Chantilly in France for the Prix de Diane,
as a guest of Longines.
Life has only improved for the screen
actor, who became a household name
after joining the cast of Home and Away
when she was only 16. She has made her
longed-for move into film, initially with a
small cameo on the local bachelors and
spinsters farce, Spin Out, starring Xavier
Samuel and co-directed by comedian Tim
Ferguson; and recently spent two weeks in
her other home, LA, shooting her first
American film, You’re Gonna Miss Me,
a comedy starring Morgan Fairchild.
“It was surreal, because I’d never worked
there before so to be on my way to a set,
after everything I’d been through, was an
emotional, exciting experience. It probably
wasn’t as glamorous as I’d imagined, but
that’s fine … one day,” she says.
James and Myles, a prop with the Manly
Sea Eagles, are used to spending time
apart since purchasing an apartment in
LA, where James is based three or four
months of the year. “People find it strange
but it’s just something we’ve always done,”
the 25-year-old says. “We know we’re
young and at that point in our lives when
it’s important to do what we love.”
A dedicated, disciplined actor, James
undertakes regular training. She’s recently
taken workshops with legendary US
acting coach Larry Moss and The Actor’s
Studio method coach Elizabeth Kemp.
Her dream is to do theatre, but also
admits to an obsession with fashion.
“If I wasn’t an actress I’d love to be a
fashion editor. I’ve bought magazines ever
since I could. I love Vogue. I love the touch
and feel of magazines,” she says, citing
Michael Lo Sordo, Christopher Esber,
Ellery and Dion Lee as favourite local
designers. “As an actress, you get dressed
by certain people and I never felt I came
across as the person I was inside. So I’ve
made a conscious effort to find designers
who do express that for me.” ■
T
100 OCTOBER 2016

102 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE RACING
STYLIST:MONIQUESANTOS
PHOTOGRAPHS:GETTYIMAGESGEORGINAEGAN
PRICESAPPROXIMATEDETAILSLASTPAGES
Derby DayTake advantage of
the classic colour
combination by
throwing caution
to the wind with
textural choices.
Vogue has your racing
fashion schedule covered.
Best in
show
N
ER.
HATMAKER
HEADBAND, $990.
CHRISTIE
MILLINERY
HEADBAND, $825.
SASS BIDE
JACKET, $590,
FROM A SELECTION
AT MYER.
CHANELA/W’16/’17
MATICEVSKI SKIRT,
$990, FROM
A SELECTION
AT MYER.

104 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE RACING
GETTYIMAGESINDIGITAL
Melbourne CupMake the day count in either
paintbox brights or
throwback tropics.
MATICEVSKI
DRESS, $1,600,
FROM A
SELECTION
AT MYER.
PETER LANG CUFF,
$129, FROM MYER.
BOSS
HEADBAND,
$220.
GUCCI SHOES,
$775.
ROSANTICA HAIR
CLIP, $280, FROM
WWW.NET-A-
PORTER.COM.
ALTUZARRA BLAZER,
$1,985, FROM WWW.
NET-A-PORTER.COM.
ANN
SHOEBRIDGE
HEADBAND,
$370, FROM
A SELECTION
AT MYER.
CHRISTIAN
LOUBOUTIN
BAG, $2,135.
FENDI
SUNGLASSES, $710.
PRADAA/W’16/’17
SALVATOREFERRAGAMOA/W’16/’17

the essence of caviar
introducing skin caviar essence-in-lotion
Gentle, yet highly effective, extravagant, yet essential, rich with caviar water,
it will become the first transformative step of your daily lifting and firming ritual.
There is nothing else like it, so beneficial to your skin, so sophisticated, so utterly precious.
You will discover that the missing link to ultimate skincare, was the very first step:
Skin Caviar Essence-in-Lotion.

106 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE RACING
GETTYIMAGESINDIGITAL
-Q

M QCelebrate the waning spring
season with garden party style.
MELISSA JOY
MANNING
EARRINGS,
$5,635.
CHRISTIE
MILLINERY
CROWN, $555.
MARNI DRESS $3,320,
FROM WWW.
NET-A-PORTER.COM.
BONDI HAT, $75,
FROM MYER.
MICHAEL KORS
EARRINGS, $200,
FROM MYER.
FENDI BAG, P.O.A.
MIU MIU
SHOES,
$1,840.
ZIMMERMANN
DRESS, $950.
AQUAZZURA
SHOES, $890.
PIPER HAT,
$70, FROM
MYER.
CHRISTIANDIORA/W’16/’17
TOMMYHILFIGERA/W’16/’17
Veruschka in a
1969 issue of Vogue,
photographed by
Franco Rubartelli.
Audrey
Hepburn
in 1955.
)Q

M QThink golden
sand tones for
a chic update.
MICHAEL
KORS
GLASSES,
$329, FROM
MYER.

Step: 2
TREAT
Step: 4
PERFECTMOISTURISE
La Prairie Skin Caviar
Liquid Lift,
$670.
Luxe Cream,
$550.
Concealer Foundation
SPF 15, $275.
Step: 1
PREPARE
Essence-in-Lotion,
$300.
YOUR FOUR VIAR RITUAL
Be ready to face the day by treating onic La Prairie Skin Caviar Collection.
THE NEW
SKINCARE
STEP
THE TRANSFORMER
La Prairie Skin Caviar Essence-
in-Lotion is simple to use: twice
a day, place a few drops into the
palm of your hand, smooth
over the complexion and then
gently massage in. This preps
the skin and helps to enhance
the effectiveness of the treatment
products that follow.
LA PRAIRIE’S LAVISH
SKIN CAVIAR
ESSENCE-IN-LOTION
IS THE FIRST
STEP TO FIRMER,
SMOOTHER SKIN.
Perfectly smooth, youthful-looking skin is
your best accessory this spring/summer.
Now, Swiss skincare company La Prairie
promises achieving this doesn’t have to be
complicated – it’s just a matter of adding
the new step of a treatment essence to your
skincare routine. The newly released light yet
powerful Skin Caviar Essence-in-Lotion is
the luxury brand’s ﬁrst treatment essence.
It’s specially formulated with an exclusive
caviar water and precious caviar extracts to
help give you skin that looks ﬁrmed and
lifted. La Prairie Skin Caviar Essence-in-
Lotion is in stores this month.
Meet the new must-have
from La Prairie that
promises supercharged skin.
VOGUE PROMOTION
For more information, visit www.laprairie.com.au.
Beauty
booster

110 OCTOBER 2016
VOGUE RACING
PHILIPSINDEN
rowing up in one of Europe’s racing dynasties, there
was never any doubt that Francesca Cumani would
follow in her family’s footsteps. Now calling Australia
home, Cumani is one of our top horse-racing
personalities and an avid supporter of women in racing. Her
career achievements read like a rollcall of racing
accolades: successful TV commentator for Channel
Seven’s equine events; host of CNN’s Winning Post,
a documentary-style segment that took her all
around the world; and now ambassador for Magic
Millions, a new role that will see her getting back in
the saddle, albeit for something slightly different.
The 2017 Magic Millions event will introduce
polo for the very first time, with an exhibition match
between ambassadors Cumani and Zara Phillips,
the equestrian champion Royal, and some of the
best players in the world, including American Nic Roldan,
Argentinian Alejandro Novillo Astrada and Cumani’s husband,
Australian polo champion Rob Archibald.
“It’s actually a lot harder than it looks,” Cumani says earnestly.
“You have to be seriously fit and it takes a lot of skill. I think polo
has an image of being totally glamorous, with people drinking
G
Giorgio Armani
jacket, $4,500,
and skirt, $3,500.
Tredstep boots,
$550, from
Horse-in-the-box.
Hair: Jonathan
Dadoun
Make-up: Yvette
Yvette
Production:
Romain Violleau
champagne and wearing white jodhpurs,
but I’ve realised through Rob that there’s
a lot of hard work that goes into it.”
It’s been a while since Cumani has
ridden, however, as she recently took time
off to welcome new son Harry, now six
months. “My life has completely changed – becoming a parent
definitely makes you a lot more selfless and really changes your
perspective on life. You put someone else first all the time; they
become your priority,” she says with a smile. “But I think it’s
important to have a bit of balance – as much as I love being a mum,
I don’t want to lose myself completely. I’m happy to
hand him over to his grandparents or anyone who
wants a cuddle so I can have time to do other things.”
In person, Cumani’s passion for anything horse-
related is obvious – whether it’s the animals
themselves, the sports, or the events she regularly
attends. She moves with an inherent gracefulness;
it’s easy to see why she has become a racing style icon
in her own right.
“Growing up in England, we have the influence of
Royal Ascot where there are actual dress rules.
I think racing should be kept like that – it should be demure and
chic, less of that nightclub feeling with short skirts and revealing
dresses,” she says. “It’s really important to dress to your figure
shape. I don’t tend to be someone who follows all the latest
fashions – I’d say my style veers more towards traditional,
timeless and elegant.” Just like the woman herself. ■
“IT’S
ACTUALLY
A LOT
HARDER
THAN IT
LOOKS”

SYDNEY
BONDI JUNCTION
CHATSWOOD
MIRANDA
EMPORIUM
CHAPEL ST
HIGHPOINT
BRISBANE
PERTH
SELECTED
MYER STORES

VOGUE RACING
n the world of fashion, the lines are so frequently blurred that
race day dress codes are a welcome hark back to the traditions
that kicked off the spring racing carnival. “A race day outfit
works best when it’s a contemporary look but follows the rules
of the track,” says Karen Walker. Wearing a unique headpiece
also gives a nod to history. “They’re the essential accessory come
race day, whether you’re wearing a crown, leather headpiece or a
back piece,” says milliner Viktoria Novak.
Most spring styling advice tells us to experiment within the
themes, but that’s not to say you can’t bend the status quo. “It’s
not just about dresses. It’s also about tuxedo pantsuits or
jumpsuits or dresses over pants – anything goes,” points out
Daniel Avakian. Perhaps the only rule worth abiding by is best
summed up by Kate Sylvester: “Never, ever wear something if it
makes you feel awkward or foolish. You’re stuck in it all day!”
I
From sleek monochrome to nation-stopping
attire, take note from the designers who
know best about wearing a winner this
spring racing season.
“Any r ce day outfit
woul be improved
with a air of sunglasses.”
– Ka en Walker
On track
STYLING TIPS
“Being a long day, opt for
something that is well cut that
you can easily walk and stand
in. It doesn’t mean you have
to be boring – go for a vibrant
pop of colour and details
such as fringing, pleating or
a fabric drape.” – Yeojin Bae
“I always like seeing a bit of
unconventional styling, like a
layered look with a dress over
trousers and a great blazer
on top.” – Daniel Avakian
“It’s important to keep a strong
sense of personal style and to
have an element of currency
– a mid-length skirt is on trend
and also race appropriate.”
– Edwina Robinson of Aje
“Often outfits have too many i eas.
I’m all for one point of view r ther
than a whole lot of ideas sl mmed
into one look.” – Karen alker
“A red lip is
always the
best accessory.”
– Yeojin Bae
“A acket thrown
ver the shoulders.”
– Edwina Robinson
unblock.”
– Kate Sylvester
HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES
,Q Q ` QM
OFFEY
DIGITAL
112 OCTOBER 2016
ELIZABETH ARDEN BEAUTIFUL
COLOR MOISTURIZING
LIPSTICK MATTE FINISH IN
RED HOT, $ M MYER.
GENA
A SHEER
CREEN
ON
SPF50+, $15.
PRADA
SUNGLASSES,
$320, FROM
MYER.
1
2
3
4
LANVINA/W’16/’17
RONALDVANDERKEMPCOUTURE’16
DANIELAVAKIANA/W’16/’17
YEOJINBAEA/W’16/’17
ELIESAABCOUTURE’16
ROKSANDAA/W’16/’17
Backstage at
Giambattista Valli
autumn/winter
’16/’17.
Rodarte
autumn/
winter
’16/’17.

114 OCTOBER 2016
ARTDIRECTION:DIJANASAVORSTYLIST:MONIQUE
SANTOSPHOTOGRAPH:GEORGINAEGAN
Finishing touches in gilt matelassé could just be your winning ticket.
MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION BAG, $2,240, AND SHOES, $1,050.
Gold standard
VOGUE RACING

WGWOOOD®OD®OGRGROSGGOSGRAIRANTABLEWAEWAEWARERESHOWNWEDWEDWEDGWOGWOOOD.COMCOMAAU

118 OCTOBER 2016
n 2016, there are several statements that remain undisputed.
The fashion industry is excited about Raf Simons’s debut at
Calvin Klein, and in turn Maria Grazia Chiuri’s at Dior. Brexit
still raises a question mark. And the Sydney property market is
simultaneously the most tired conversation topic yet the one that
everyone has something to say about. Here’s another one – we’re
living in an age of a digital revolution. We’re touching our
smartphones more than 85 times a day, which is of course higher
than what we all estimate. About 83 per cent of Australia’s
population accesses the internet, and technological literacy –
while considered a bit of cultural cachet at the moment – will
increasingly be required. We’re in an age when a modern
supermodel like Karlie Kloss wants to extend her personal brand
to go beyond the fashion runway, so sets up Kode With Klossy, a
platform of coding camps and scholarships that encourages
I
Tech it to
the limitComputer programming has long been a male-
dominated realm. But a digital revolution is ripe for
women to boost their presence. By Zara Wong.
school-aged girls to learn computer coding. It was a classic
smartest-girl-in-the-room move, chosen in lieu of the usual
fashion line/beauty brand/memoir route, and it’s actually making
a positive difference to the future of girls who look up to the
multitasking model. Their involvement is also helping to shift
the stigma of coding being something more suited to boys.
It’s about time. The STEM industries – that is, science,
technology, engineering and mathematics – have startlingly
fewer women employed in them, or electing to study these
subjects at university level. While there are even fewer people
graduating with computer science degrees in the past decade
overall, the drop in women graduating with them is even more
severe at 50 per cent. There is a perception that STEM subjects
are reserved for the boys, and that girls are better suited to right-
side brain (artistic) subjects, a damaging stereotype. This untruth
GETTYIMAGES

© 2016 Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141 AFSL and Australian credit licence 233714.
Is Australia’s most future-focused
industry backward?
Less than 30% of the IT industry is female, but at estpac
we think that should be 50%. Want to join us?
westpac.com.au/careers

120 OCTOBER 2016
is at odds with not only studies today but also the history of
technology. Significant figures in tech history are female. Grace
Hopper programmed one of the world’s first computers and was
influential in the establishment of early computer programming
language COBOL. The six all-female primary programmers
(Kay McNulty, Betty Jennings, Betty Snyder, Marlyn Wescoff,
Fran Bilas and Ruth Lichterman) behind
another of the world’s first general-
purpose computers, ENIAC, have gone
down in computer history. And at the
very beginning there was 19th-century
mathematician Ada Lovelace, who worked
on a machine considered to be the first
computer, making her theoretically the
world’s first computer programmer. And
who said girls were bad at tech?
“We as Australian women need to be
preparing ourselves for a digital future
and the best way to prepare ourselves for
that is to actually understand what digital
skills we require,” says Anastasia
Cammaroto, chief information officer of
BT Financial Group, who is speaking at
Vogue Codes, a summit held on
October 14 in Sydney centred around
women in technology and encouraging
more females to become more
technologically literate. Cammaroto grew
up enjoying both the arts and the sciences
in high school, interests that were
combined in her engineering and
later information technology career
experiences, which has been both creative
as well as closely people oriented. “It is so
ingrained in us that boys are better in
science and maths when the facts prove
that girls are just as good at that, and
these myths are playing out and they
influence the way we influence our
children,” she continues. “I’m fascinated
now to see what the next generation of
girls is going to be because we’re having
conversations now that are saying, ‘You
can be anything.’” And as Kloss said to
Forbes about her passion for getting girls
interested in computers: “I think women
are currently an underutilised and poorly
supported group of potential employees in
an industry that has a widening gap of
unfilled jobs. So I think the opportunity
is just tremendous.”
The diminishing number of people
graduating from STEM fields is
incongruous in light of the prevalence of
technology and digital in the world today.
“The world has been changed by
technology,” says Kathryn Parsons,
co-CEO and co-founder of Decoded, one
of the largest technology educators in the
world and a keynote speaker of Vogue
Codes. “Every single product we use is
impacting our behaviour, our lives, and it’s predominantly been
encoded in lines of code written by men,” she says. There is a slew
of poorly designed products that miss-aim for women: health
apps that ignore menstrual cycles, 48 per cent of role-playing
video games that have a female character as an option (compared
to 98 per cent offering male characters) – incidentally, this video
game study was conducted by a 12-year-
old girl, further proof that technological
expertise need not have an age barrier,
either. Men are more often the test
subjects of medical trials, which makes
medication less safe for women. And,
alarmingly, most virtual assistants, like
Siri, do not recognise the vocabulary
associated with domestic abuse or rape,
which will affect one in three women
some time in their life. It is also a sad
irony that they mostly defaulted to a
female voice.
Amped-up technological literacy further
improves cognisance of how things work
around us and exposes one to different
ways of thinking and learning. It’s even
useful to brush up on terminology to
better improve comprehension in tech-
related situations, whether it’s being aware
of the difference between coding and
machine learning or a web-based app
versus a native app. And as futurist Marc
Goodman, who has consulted for the FBI
and Interpol, says: “If you control the
code, you control the world.”
There is also the obvious benefit of
upskilling – but within the actual learning
of the technology is the appeal that it is a
space with room for creativity and
innovation. We need to have the tools and
understanding of it to build from it,
whether it be web-based software like
Canva – whose co-founder Melanie
Perkins will also be speaking at Vogue
Codes – or for social change.
“I want women to be a part of technology
and create successful businesses from it,”
adds Parsons, who is active within the tech
entrepreneur space but concedes there is a
long way to go. Currently in Australia,
one in four start-ups are founded by
women, and of those in the tech space, the
number drops to less than four per cent.
And it can be a ticket out of the ordinary
towards self-made success; the #startuplife
is skewed towards comedy, but ultimately
portrayed to be something that many are
striving towards. High-profile tech stars
like Mark Zuckerberg of Facebook or
Sophia Amoruso of Nasty Gal are
considered role models for a life better
worked – and lived.
So what are you waiting for? Get with
the program. ■
DECODING
THE CODE
HTML (Hypertext Markup
Language) is the language of
content used to create web
pages or web applications.
CSS (Cascading Style Sheets)
is the language of design, and
used to set the visual style of
web pages and user interfaces.
JavaScript is a programming
language that helps make
applications more responsive
and interactive. It is used
on web pages, widgets,
games and more.
API (Application Programming
Interface) is a set of instructions
to interface with a third party
service, like Google Maps
or Twitter.
For more information,
go to https://resources.
decoded.com/code/.
Karlie Kloss
GETTYIMAGES

The world’s thinnest laptop
The New HP Spectre Laptop
Reinvent Obsession
Do great things.

VOGUE.COM.AU 123
The most ingenious and simple business ideas are those that solve
your own problems. As a young girl in Dallas, Amber Venz Box
yearned for a career in fashion in New York. “Dallas is hours
away from New York and not a publishing city, and I didn’t know
anyone in New York and had no means of getting there,” she says
in her charming Texan accent over the phone from the
RewardStyle headquarters, located in her home town. “I was
among the thousands of girls who never got that opportunity [to
intern in New York’s fashion industry].”
At high school, Venz Box began creating and selling her own
jewellery, then worked in fashion in Los Angeles and New York.
Returning to Dallas, she parlayed her experience and natural taste
as a retail buyer and personal shopper into starting a blog. “The
blog was meant to be a marketing tool to get more people to use
my offline service [as a personal shopper], but whenever I started
documenting it, I quickly lost my key customers. I cut myself out
of my own business because they could get all the information
there,” says Venz Box, now 28. Her boyfriend at the time, Baxter,
who is now her husband and co-founded RewardStyle, was at
graduate school back then, and between them they devised a link
affiliate system that would allow content creators such as Venz
Box to receive commission from products they suggested.
“Someone asked me recently whether it was scary to start
RewardStyle and I said: ‘Honestly, no, because I had literally no
money and I was living at my dad’s house and eating cereal, so
there wasn’t much lower to go.’”
Now, five years on from its launch, RewardStyle has more than
200 employees around the world in five offices and has driven
more than US$1 billion in retail sales internationally. It has also
moved into the beauty and home space and started Like To
Know, which allows Instagram users to receive commission from
products they feature on their posts.
This September sees the start of a partnership with Google to
index social media content. In layman’s terms, that means when
using Google, it will bring up content created on social media
because the creator of the image, the products within it, the
context and how well it performed are all documented, searchable
and trackable, thanks to RewardStyle’s technology.
Venz Box believes that it’s only in recent months that
RewardStyle has been recognised as the powerful tool that it is.
“I feel that it’s only this year that RewardStyle has gained mass
respect. I’m not mad about this at all; I completely understand
that you have to earn your presence,” she says, modestly
acknowledging that users and retailers needed time to become
educated about their product and their needs.
The fashion technologist:
Amber Venz Box
As the co-founder and president of RewardStyle,
one of the world’s largest link affiliate networks,
Amber Venz Box has brought technology and
fashion together to service millions of people
around the world.
Digital sageSmart, savvy and inspiring, four successful
women immersed in technology share their
career stories, passion for the industry and
hopes for the future.
Amber Venz Box
wears a Tibi jumpsuit.
Her own rings.
Valentino shoes.
▲

Vogue australia october_2016

Recommended

Recommended

More Related Content

What's hot

What's hot (18)

Viewers also liked

Viewers also liked (20)

Similar to Vogue australia october_2016

Similar to Vogue australia october_2016 (20)

More from PrivetOUTLET

More from PrivetOUTLET (20)

Recently uploaded

Recently uploaded (20)

Vogue australia october_2016