This document provides information on tests that should be performed prior to hair coloring or lightening services, as well as how to perform the tests and expected results. It discusses the purpose and procedures for skin tests, porosity tests, elasticity tests, and incompatibility tests. The importance of following manufacturer's instructions, recording test results, and potential issues that could arise from failing to perform tests are also covered.

1. RE-CAP
H13

2. Complete the following grid
stating how and when tests should be carried out
and expected results
TEST PURPOSE OF TEST HOW AND WHEN EXPECTED RESULT
SHOULD THE TESTS AND INFLUENCE ON
BE CARRIED OUT COLOURING OR
LIGHTENING
SERVICES
Skin test To find out if the Cleanse area tint is to If there is no reaction
client’s skin reacts to be applied with white (negative) the
the chemical’s in the spirit e.g.. Behind ear treatment can be
permanent colour to or inner elbow, apply carried out, if there is
be used. raw tint to area and a reaction (positive)
leave to dry, repeat service cannot be
another twice, tell carried out and
client to report any another service must
discomfort. be offered.
Leave for 24-48 hrs
Porosity test To find out how Run fingers and If the cuticle layer is
quickly product will thumb fro point to rough it means that the
cuticle layer is raised and
be absorbed. root along the length therefore porous and will
of the hair. quickly absorb product
applied. Hair that is
smooth is in good
consultation condition.

3. Elasticity test To test the strength Take a few strands When released hair
of hair of hair between should return to its
forefinger and thumb original length. This
of each hand, gently shows us that the
stretch, hair is in good
condition
consultation
Incompatibility test To check if there are A cutting is taken If this produces
chemicals on the hair from the hair (back of bubbles or heat, the
which will react with the head) it is then hair may even
the colour product. placed in a solution disintegrate. The
of hydrogen peroxide service must not be
and ammonium carried out.
hydroxide.
Before service is
carried out

4. Why is it important to follow
manufacturers instructions for skin
tests
• The manufacturer knows there products/
ingredients and that they can cause harm.

5. List potential causes of failing to
carry out these tests in Q1
Client may need medical treatment.
May cause discomfort.
Hair damage.
Inflamed scalp.
Colour to dark.

6. Why do we need to record results
of the tests on client record card.
For future reference.

7. Outline principles of colouring
7 possible ans
• Client requirements
• Natural hair colour
• Skin tone
• Hair texture
• Condition and porosity of hair
• Product to be used
• Shade and colour requested

8. Complete grid stating the difference each colouring has on the hair structure
Product effect on hair structure
Temporary Lies on the surface of the hair, on the
cuticle and lodge between the scales
Semi-permanent Lies deep into the cuticle under the
scales and on the outer edge of the
cortex
Quasi-permanent Penetrate the cuticle and the outer of the
cortex
Permanent The hair swells and the cuticle opens to
allow the product to penetrate the
cuticle and enter the cortex. When the
hydrogen peroxide is combined with the
molecules of colour they enlarge and
cannot escape through cuticle as they
become trapped.
Bleach The cuticle layer of the hair swells
allowing the bleach to enter the cortex.
The oxygen from the hydrogen peroxide
removes the colour from the natural
pigment.

9. State how different strengths of hydrogen peroxide influence colouring and lightening
Strength of peroxide Effect on colouring and lightening
3% (10 volume) Has little effect on natural hair colour.
Used only with very dark tints or
toners.
6% (20volume) To lighten natural colour 1 shade.
Used when adding colour and with
certain bleach products. Manufacture’s
recommendations must be followed.
9% (30 volume) To lighten natural hair colour 2 to 3
shades. Used with tints to lighten.
12% (40 volume) To lighten natural hair colour generally
with high lift tints to give maximum lift.
18% (60 volume) Should never be used on hair

10. State how the following factors affect your choice of colouring and
lightening products and application techniques
factor product Application techniques
Temperature Will not effect choice of Will not effect
colour
Percentage of white hair Select a product for client Re-growth
requirements Full head
Partial colouring
Positive skin test result Semi or temporary colour Avoid the scalp
Strength of hydrogen Quasi, permanent or bleach Full head
peroxide Re-growth
Partial colour
Foils or meche packages
Porosity of hair Temporary, semi, As above
permanent or bleach
Skin tone Use shades to complement As above
The skin tone

11. Explain the effects temperature has on
colouring and lightening products.
Application.
No affect.
Development.
Gentle heat can speed up the process.

12. Explain how to dilute liquid peroxide in order to make different
strengths of solution
Dilute with water
1+1
1+2
1+3

13. Why must we restore the PH
balance of the hair after colouring
To close the cuticle and to counteract the
oxidisation process

14. When we remove products from
developing areas of the hair why is
it important not to disturb areas still
processing
Rinsing may cause seepage, it may
weaken product and give an uneven result

15. Explain why we must make sure we
remove all of colouring and lightening
products from the scalp
Staining of the scalp, may affect condition
of the hair, bleach left on hair could
continue to process and to avoid scalp
irritation.

16. Complete the following grid stating why and how the
contra-indications can affect the delivery of colouring and
lightening services
Contra- indication Why How
Skin sensitivity Limits choice of product Aggravate condition
and technique
History of previous Limits the services that Allergic reaction
reaction to colouring ca be offered
products
Other known allergies Must be taken into May aggravate condition
account

17. Skin disorders May limit the services May make condition
that can be offered worse
Incompatible products Limits services that can Wrong service may
be offered cause heat damage to
the hair, discolouration
Medical advise Must be taken into May aggravate condition
account

18. List different types of colouring and
lightening products available.
• Temporary
• Semi-permanent
• Quasi
• Permanent
• Hi-lift
• bleaches

19. When and how should conditioners be used when colouring and
lightening
• Before: to even out porosity
• After: to close cuticle
• Follow manufactures instructions

20. When would you use various
bleaches available
Bleach When to use
. Powder Highlights with
cap & foils.
Cream Full head, Block,
cap & foils.

21. During the colouring and lightening process, state a cause for each of the following
problems
skin staining
sloppy application, not being removed on completion of application.
Deterioration of hair condition
wrong test results or not taken,wrong choice of product, wrong
choice of hydrogen peroxide, Processing time incorrect.
Product seepage
wrong choice of product for application technique, poor application
of product

22. Complete the following grid indicating ways to solve these simple
colouring and lightening problems that may occur during processing
problem Means of resolving it
Colour not good on white hair Hair may be resistant-
Pre soften
Colour uneven Spot tint light areas
Colour to light Use darker shade
Check hydrogen peroxide strength
Scalp irratation Wash hair thoroughly to make
sure no tint present.
Advise to check with doctor

23. What are the potential dangers of using lightening products
on previously chemically treated hair?
• Damage to the hair, poor condition, poor
porosity.