1. The document discusses various properties and testing procedures for woven fabrics, including pilling, crease, neps, stiffness, shrinkage, air permeability, abrasion resistance, weight, color fastness, and others.
2. Testing is done to determine quality, support research, raw material selection, process and product control/development, and more. Standardized procedures involve specific apparatuses and measure properties according to established principles.
3. Examples of testing procedures provided include the pilling test using a pilling box tester, crease recovery using a Shirley tester, neps counting using a metal plate over card sliver, and abrasion resistance using a Martindale abrasion tester. Precautions for
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismAzmir Latif Beg
Auto stripe machine give stable structure with auto-stripper device, which could get various colors. Auto stripe & Engineering is commonly mark in use that does not goes with their definition. Today I will discuss regarding knit stripe patter.
Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on physical and mechan...Elias Khalil (ইলিয়াস খলিল)
This paper deals with the results of an investigation of various gauges of circular knitting machines with a view to producing same single jersey fabric with different parameters. All parameters including machine diameter, stitch length, yarn count, yarn lot, yarn tension etc. but gauges are used for this work is different. Even dyeing has been done at the same time on the same machine by stitching one with other, finishing parameters and processes are also same and done at same time as well to minimize the effects of other variable which can be responsible for changing the physical and mechanical properties like finished width of the fabric, finished GSM (Grams per Square Meter), shrinkage, spirality, bursting strength etc. This is done for finding only the effects which actually affects the fabric properties. Finally the findings or results are as expected with some variations with the results that are thought theoretically.
Feeder stripe, Engineering stripe and Auto stripe mechanismAzmir Latif Beg
Auto stripe machine give stable structure with auto-stripper device, which could get various colors. Auto stripe & Engineering is commonly mark in use that does not goes with their definition. Today I will discuss regarding knit stripe patter.
Effect of gauge variation of circular knitting machine on physical and mechan...Elias Khalil (ইলিয়াস খলিল)
This paper deals with the results of an investigation of various gauges of circular knitting machines with a view to producing same single jersey fabric with different parameters. All parameters including machine diameter, stitch length, yarn count, yarn lot, yarn tension etc. but gauges are used for this work is different. Even dyeing has been done at the same time on the same machine by stitching one with other, finishing parameters and processes are also same and done at same time as well to minimize the effects of other variable which can be responsible for changing the physical and mechanical properties like finished width of the fabric, finished GSM (Grams per Square Meter), shrinkage, spirality, bursting strength etc. This is done for finding only the effects which actually affects the fabric properties. Finally the findings or results are as expected with some variations with the results that are thought theoretically.
The slideshow will be narrative of the testing for fabrics in the crisp and clear fashion. The different types of tests of fabrics along with colorfastness are also explained.
This paper deals with the result of an investigation by using different count yarn but same
parameters of knitting machine to produce cotton-elastane single jersey fabric. Here,the all parameters of
knitting machine including gauge, dia ,Stitch length, rpm, machine tension etcare same. Dyeing process also
carried out at same parameter for all fabrics. Finishing process like Heat setting, Stentering, compacting are
done in same condition But we use different count cotton yarn. In this paper, we mainly deal with the physical
properties of single jersey cotton fabric. we try to identify how the properties of single jersey knitted fabric like
fabric diameter(gray& finished condition) ,WPI&CPI(gray& finished condition),Fabric GSM(gray& finished
condition),Shrinkage (%) length &width wise, spiralityare changing with Count .Finally the findings are as
expected with some variation with the result that are thought theoretically.
The contents are written in a way that the student understands the basics tests that are done to evaluate the textile fibers. In specific the properties namely length, strength, maturity and elongation.
This PPT are used for textile engineering students, textile technology who takes textile testing courses. the PPt prepared from different books and NPTEL textile engineering web site.
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1. 1
Properties and testing procedure of woven fabric
Introduction:
Testing is the process or procedure to determines the quality of a product. It is analysis or
research or examine about product or materials .It can help us to know the valuable quality &
characterize of materials .If the testing products are textile material then testing process is
known as textile testing. Testing instruments can not make decisions but the end some person
has to take the necessary actions for future. Textile testing is the application of engineering
knowledge and science to the measurement of the properties and characteristics of and the
conditions affecting, textile fibres , yarns and fabric. It involves the use if techniques, tools,
instruments and machines in the laboratory for the evaluation of the properties of these different
forms of textiles.
The Objects of testing:
1. Research
2. Selection of raw materials
3. Process control
4. Process development
5. Product control
6. Product development
7. Product testing
8. Specific test
Testing properties of woven fabric :
Pilling
Crease
Neps
Fabric stiffness
Shrinkage
Air permeability
Abrasion resistance
Fabric weight
Color fastness
Water repellent
Drape
Crimp
Fabric Bursting strength
Fabric count
2. 2
Fabric thickness
Flammability .
Pilling:
Pills are formed by a rubbing action on loose fibers which are present on the fabric surface.
Pilling was originally a fault found mainly in knitted woolen goods made from soft twisted
yarns. The introduction of man-made fibers into clothing has aggravated its seriousness.
Principle:
Pilling is a fabric surface fault characterized by little pills of entangled fibers clinging to the
surface. Pills are formed during wearing or washing by the entanglement of the loose fibers,
which protrude from fabric surface.
Apparatus:
1. Pilling tester
2. Sample
3. Fabric
4. Scissor
5. Stop watch
6. Soap solution
7. Cellophane tape
etc.
Fig. : ICI Pilling box tester
3. 3
Machine description:
On the top of the pilling box tester there are two pilling boxes are connected with the connecting
rod and each pilling box dimension is (9in.×9in.×9 in.). They are made of wood. Four rubber
tube are placed in each pilling box. Each rubber tube is 6 in. long, 5/4 in. outer dia. & 1/8in.
thick. A stand is connected between the connecting rod & the base.
Working Procedure:
1. Eight samples are taken of (5in.×5in.)
2. We washed these samples with 0.5% soap solution for 15 min. at 45 degree temp.
3. We drayed & cool down the samples
4. Wrapped these samples around the rubber tubes with the help of cellophane tape
5. Time &rpm of machine is inputted in the counter &that is 5hrs & 60rpm
6. Then machine is switched on
7. With the help of connecting rod boxes are start moving
8. After 5hrs. machine is stopped automatically & samples are collected
9. These samples are matched with the following three arbitrary standard
After matching the samples, if maximum no. of samples are matched in one standard & that
is the result of this experiment.
Precaution:
Samples should be cut at ( 5″×5″ )
Samples should be washed with 0.5% soap solution for 15 min. at 45 degree temp
Samples should be drayed & cool down after washing
Samples should be Wrapped around the rubber tubes with the help of cellophane tape
Compare these samples very carefully according to the standards
Crease:
Principle:
Crease recovery is the property of a fabric by which crease is recovered without any external
force after applying crease.
Apparatus:
4. 4
1. Shirley crease recovery tester.
2. Sample
3. Scissor
4. Stop watch
5. Dead Weight.
etc.
Machine description:
There is a dial on the top of the machine which is graduated in degree. A sample holder is
attached in the middle point on the dial. Fabric is put on the holder. Below the sample holder
there is a knife edge. There is a leveling screw in order of leveling the machine under the screw
base is attached which supports the machine.
Working procedure:
1. We level the machine by spirit level screw.
2. We cut the fabric according to the size (2ʺ×1ʺ)
3. We fold the fabric by folding half.
4. We placed 2kg dead weight on the folded fabric for 5 min. and thus crease is applied.
5. We removed the weight & kept the sample for 5 min. to recovered the crease.
5. 5
6. We put the one part of fabric in the sample holder & another remains free
7. We rotated the dial in such way that the free part of fabric and knife edge are in same line .
8. Then Crease recovery angle is taken directly by knife edge.
Crease recovery Crease recovery angle
Crease resistance Crease Recovery angle
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at (2″×1″)
Ironing should be done.
Loading time and crease recovery time should be equal.
Fabric edge and knife edge should be parallel.
Neps:
Neps are defined as small tight balls of tangled fibers which can lead to the downgrading of the
fabric.
Classification of neps:
1. Process neps
2. Mixed neps
3. Immature neps
4. Dead neps
5. Fuzz neps
Principle:
It is the number of neps per 100 inch2
of card web, forming a standard hank of sliver of 0.12 on a
card 40 inch wide.
6. 6
Apparatus:
1. Black painted metal plate.
2. Card sliver.
3. Black board.
4. Scissor, etc.
Machine description:
The machine consists of black board, card sliver and black painted metal plate. Card sliver is put
between the black board and black painted metal plate. The dimension of black board is 11
1/2ʺ×5ʺ and the dimension of black painted metal plate is 11 1/2ʺ×5ʺ ×1/8ʺ. There are 34 holes in
black painted metal plate. Each hole is 1 inch2
.
Working procedure:
1. At first we cut the card sliver with scissor from carding machine according to the dimension of
the black board which is ( 11 1/2ʺ×5ʺ ×1/8ʺ).
2. Put the card sliver on the black board.
3. Put the black painted metal plate on the card sliver.
4. According to position distribution we calculate neps.
Calculation:
Poissons distribution-
7. 7
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at ( 11 1/2ʺ×5ʺ ×1/8ʺ).
We should handle the card sliver carefully because it is too thin.
Neps should be observed in hole carefully.
Fabric stiffness:
Principle:
It is the property by which fabric resist to deform. Stiffness is a special property of fabric. It is
the tendency of fabric to keep standing without any support. It is a key factor in the study of
handle and drape of fabric.
Apparatus:
1. Sample fabric.
2. Scissor.
3. Shirley stiffness tester.
4. Iron m/c
etc.
8. 8
Machine description:
Shirley stiffness tester is made of plastic. There is a template on the top of the machine. A scale
is attached with the template. A mirror and an index line is adjusted in the machine. There are
two side pieces which supports the platform. Plastic piece is inclined with platform plain with
41.5o
.
Working procedure:
1. At first we have to collect the sample fabric and cut it according to the dimension of template
(6″×1″).
2. Put the fabric below the template. So the tip of fabric and tip of template in the same line.
3. Push forward the template with fabric until the fabric touches index line of mirror.
4. Then the bending length is determined from the scale of template.
5. At last we calculate the stiffness.
For Shirley stiffness tester,
Bending angle, = 41.50
Actual bending length, c = lf( )
f( ) = 1/3
c =
Where,
l = projected bending length.
= Bending angle.
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at (6″×1″).
Ironing the fabric before the experiment.
Tip of fabric and scale tip must be equally pushed.
Mirror observation should be perfect.
We have to push the fabric until the it touch the mirror line.
9. 9
Shrinkage :
Principle:
Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through
the process of laundry.
Apparatus:
1. Glass plate
2. Scale
3. Sample
4. Scissor
etc.
Fig. : glass plate
Machine Description:
Template and shrinkage scale made up of transparent polymer plate to apply standard pressure
on test specimen. The Shrinkage Scale 15" & Template has a fine calibrated marking of 18" x
18" & 10" x 10" bench-marks. It ensures reading of laundered or dry-cleaned or washed or
processed fabric or garment directly and accurately.
Working Procedure:
1. .The sample which is done shrinkage test, spread on table.
2. Then a glass template put on sample fabric which is square size.
3. There are six marks on glass template and distance between two mark is 35 cm.
4. Marking the sample fabric by unchangeable marker.
5. Then sample is sewn by hand sewing machine. Sample is ready for washing.
6. Simple wash the fabric at 60˚c temp for 90 min. after washing the fabric is taken out.
7. Dry the sample as per any of the method. It can either be Line Dry or Flat Dry or Tumble
Dry.
8. To find the dimensional change read the Shrinkage/Stretch on 3 points on the Wrap side and
3 points on Weft Side.
10. 10
9. Get the mean value of wrap-wise and weft wise readings to get the Accurate Shrinkage or
Stretch.
Precaution:
There is no crease or folds in fabric during spreading.
Glass template put on sample fabric carefully.
Air permeability:
Principle:
Air permeability is the volume of air measured in cm3
passed per second through 1cm2
of the
fabric at a pressure of 1cm of water.
Apparatus:
1. Sample fabric.
2. Shirley air permeability tester.
3. Scissor.
4. Iron
etc.
Machine description:
11. 11
In this machine, the air flow at start from the suction pump and by pass valve. Then the air
passes in the reservoir and series valve. The air passes into the rotameter at a certain amount of
air then pass into the sample. A draught gauge is indicating to the amount of air pass in the
specimen. A safety valve is attached with the draught gauge. The sample holder dimension is
5.07cm2
. Air flow range of the rotameter: R1=0.05-0.5cm3
/sec, R2=0.5-3.5cm3
/sec, R3=3-
35cm3
/sec, R4=30-350cm3
/sec.
Working procedure:
1. At first we have to collect the sample fabric and cut it according to the dimension of 1inch.
Dia.
2. Then the specimen set on the sample holder.
3. Then the suction pump is started.
4. At first R4 is open and other rotameters are closed. If the air flow is less than 30cm3
/sec. R3
is open and R4 closed. Then indicate the range of air flow from the draught gauge.
5. Then take 5 sample reading and calculate the air permeability of these fabrics.
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at (1″ dia.).
Sample should be set on the sample holder correctly.
During taking measurement excess air should be passed through safety valve.
If the suction pump air is not enough, the by-pass valve should be opened.
Abrasion resistance:
Principle:
Abrasion is just one aspect of wear and is the rubbing away of the component fibres and yarns of
fabric.
The property by which material resist the damage due to the abrasion is called abrasion
resistance.
Apparatus:
1. Sample.
2. Scissor.
3. Digital weight balance.
4. Martindale abrasion tester
etc.
12. 12
Machine Description:
The machine has two plates, one is mounted at the bottom and another is on the top. The upper
plate contains 4 abradant at same level. The abradants are made of ceramic. The lower plate
contains 4 sample holder made of steel. The diameter of each holder is 38 mm. It has a counter
with the base to fix the number of cycle of abradant. Pressure of abradant is 550gm/inch2
.
Working Procedure:
1. At first we have to collect the sample.
2. Then the sample is cut according to the dimension of 38mm dia.
3. The weight of sample is measured by digital weight balance.
4. Then the sample is placed on the sample holder.
5. 25 no. of cycles are inputted in the counter and machine is switched on
6. After the completion of required cycle the machine stopped automatically
7. Sample is withdrawn from the sample holder and again weight is taken
8. According to the following formula we can measure wear index.
Abrasion Wear index
Abrasion resistance Wear index
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at 38 mm dia.
13. 13
Sample should be placed perfectly on sample holder.
Weight of fabric before and after the test should be measured accurately.
Abrasion cycle should be selected according to the quality of fabric.
Sample should be crease or fold free before experiment.
Fabric weight:
The weight of a fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the ‘weight per unit area’ or the
‘weight per unit length’; the former is self- explanatory but the latter requires a little explanation
because the weight of a unit length of fabric will obviously be affected by its width.
Principle:
GSM cutters are used to determine accurately the GSM (Grams per square meter) of any type of
fabrics. The unit is recommended for yield testing i.e. the determination of weight per unit area.
The sample cutter cuts out rapidly and accurately circular specimen of 100 Cm2, which is
exactly 1 / 100th of a square meter. The result is grams, multiplied by 100, gives the GSM
directly.
Grams per Square Meter = Specimen Weight in Grams x 100
Apparatus:
1. GSM cutter
2. Electric balance.
3. Sample of fabric
4. Scissor
5. GSM Pad
etc.
Fig. : GSM cutter
14. 14
Machine Description:
The equipment is very simple. It consists of Sample cutter with safety catch lock. The instrument
is equipped with a set of four replaceable blades. Two special grade cutting pads are provided
with the unit. The cutting pads have much longer life than normal cutting pads. It has hand wheel
that can move to cut the sample of fabric.
Working Procedure:
1. The material to be cut is placed between the Sample Cutter and a Special Cutting Board.
2. When the safety catch is released, light downward pressure on the hand wheel brings the
multiple blades into contact with the material.
3. Specimens are cut by rotating the hand wheel under a light and even pressure.
4.The design and precision manufacture of the instrument ensures the specimens are perfectly
circular and have smooth edges.
5.Then weigh the sample by electric balance in gram.
6.By this way we get the weight in gram per one square meter fabric.
7.Repeat above procedure in 5 times.
Precaution:
Sample should be crease or fold free before experiment.
Sample weight should be measure accurately.
Sample weight should be multiplied by 100.
Color fastness:
The resistance of coloring matters or the substrate towards chemical , physical influence &other
agencies of daily use is called color fastness.
Principle:
The resistance of coloring matters or the substrate towards rubbing of daily use is called color
fastness to rubbing.
15. 15
Apparatus:
1. Crock meter
2. Sample
3. Scissor
4. Distilled water
5. Grey scale no. 1 &2
etc.
Fig. : Crock meter.
Machine description:
There is an emery surface & pinned specimen holder on the base. There is an operating handle at
one side & in another side there is a finger arm. A finger arm pin is attached on the finger arm.
Below the finger arm there is a finger & a spring clip which is used to hold the crocking cloth.
Working procedure:
A) Dry crocking test:
1. Sample is taken at the dimension (13cm×5cm)
2. Sample is put on the emery surface
3. Scoured & bleached ceocking cloth(2cm×2cm) is wrapped over the finger and it is attached
by spring clip.
4. Finger arm is brought down as it contact with the sample
16. 16
5. Operating handle is rotated 10 times within 10sec.
6. Then collected the sample and crocking cloth
7. Sample and crocking cloth is compared to the standard wirh the help of grey scale-1 and
grey scale -2.
B) Wet crocking test:
Same procedure as dry crocking test but the sample is wetted with distilled water
and then it is squeezed to remove excess water.
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at( 13cm ×5cm)
One stroke should be taken in 1 sec.
Matching with grey scale should be perfect.
Crocking cloth should be scoured and bleached.
Water Repellent:
Principle:
The time taken for contact angle to drop to 450
is noted. The reciprocal of the time taken is called
wet ability or wetting velocity.
Apparatus:
1. Stand.
2. Funnel.
3. Spray nozzle.
4. Embroidery hoop.
5. Fabric.
6. Base
etc.
17. 17
Machine description:
A funnel is attached with stand. Funnel contains 250cc water at 780
F temperature. Under the
funnel there is spray nozzle. Fabric is placed under spray nozzle. Fabric is circular in shape. If is
placed on the embroidery hoop at 450
. Embroidery hoop is attached base of the machine.
Working procedure:
1. At first we have to collect the sample fabric.
2. Then the sample fabric is cut which diameter will be 6″.
3. Then the fabric is set with the embroidery hoop.
4. The embroidery hoop is then set with the base at an angle of 450
.
5. The funnel is filled with 250cc water at 700
F temperature and nozzle is opended to enable
spray of water on fabric sample.
6. After the completion of spray the fabric is withdrawn from the embroidery hoop.
7. The excess water on fabric surface is removed by using tissue paper.
8. At last we compare the fabric with AATCC (America Association of textile chemists and
colorists).
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at 6″
Embroidery hoop should be set at 450
angles with base of the m/c.
Excess water should be removed.
Drape:
Drape is the term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. The draping
qualities required from a fabric will differ completely depending on its end use. Knitted fabrics
are relatively floppy and garments made from them will tend to follow the body contours.
Woven fabrics are relatively stiff when compared with knitted fabrics so that they are used in
tailored clothing where the fabric hangs away from the body and disguises its contours.
18. 18
Principle: It is the property of a fabric by which fabric tends to hang over.
Drape co-efficient: It is the ratio of the projected area of the draped specimen to its undraped
area, after deduction of the area of the supporting disk.
Drape co-efficient, F =
Where,
As = Actual projected area of the specimen.
Ad = Area of the supporting dick.
AD = Area of the specimen.
Apparatus:
1. Drape tester
2. Sample
3. Scissor
Etc.
Fig. : Drape Test
Machine Description:
There is a paper ring on the top of the machine. Under the paper ring, there are two discs. There
is a light source on the top side. Under light source, there is a parabolic mirror in the bottom of
the machine.
As – Ad
AD – Ad
19. 19
Working procedure:
1. In the test a circular specimen is held concentrically between two smaller horizontal discs
and is allowed to drape into folds under its own weight.
2. A light is shone from underneath the specimen and the shadow that the fabric casts, is traced
onto an annular piece of paper the same size as the unsupported part of the fabric specimen.
3. The stiffer a fabric is, the larger is the area of its shadow compared with the unsupported
area of the fabric.
4. To measure the areas involved, the whole paper ring is weighed and then the shadow part of
the ring is cut away and weighed.
5. The paper is assumed to have constant mass per unit area so that the measured mass is
proportional to area.
6. The drape coefficient can then be calculated using the following equation:
Precaution:
Load should be increased gradually.
Crimp:
Percentage crimp is defined as the mean distance between the straightened thread length and the
distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as percentage.
Principle:
Percentage crimp is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and
the difference between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as percentage.
20. 20
Apparatus:
1. Counting balance.
2. Scissor.
3. Fabric.
Machine description:
Pivoted beam is arranged in the one side of the machine. A fixed grib is adjusted with pivot
beam. Between pivoted beam and fixed grib sliding weight is fixed on the other side of the
machine movable grib is arranged. Beside movable grib hand wheel is provided to remove
crimp. At the middle of the machine a torch bulb and scale is arranged.
Working procedure:
1. Yarns are collected from the fabric and determine its count.
2. According to the yarn count, we select sliding weight.
3. The yarn is kept between fixed grib and movable grib which distance is 12 inch.
4. Rotate the hand wheel clockwise until remove crimp and the sliding weight parallel and
torch will glow.
5. Then we find out the difference between crimped yarn and without crimped yarn and
calculate it in percentage.
Calculation:
Crimp percentage = l-p/p×100
l = Length of yarn with crimp.
p = Length of yarn without crimp.
Precaution:
21. 21
Yarn should be removed carefully from the fabric so that crimp is not changed.
Hand wheel should be rotated clockwise until the torch bulb will glow.
Sliding weight should be selected according to the yarn count.
Bursting Strength :
Bursting strength is the strength of a fabric against a multidirectional flow of pressure. The
bursting test measures a composite strength of both warp & weft yarns simultaneously and
indicate the extent to which a fabric can withstand a bursting type of force will pressure being
applied perpendicular to the surface of the fabric.
Principle:
Bursting Strength is the strength of a fabric against a multidirectional flow of pressure. The
pressure in a liquid is exerted in all directions and this phenomenon of a liquid is used for testing
bursting Strength in bursting strength tester.
Apparatus:
1. Bursting Tester.
2. Sample.
3. Scissor
etc.
Fig: Bursting Strength Test.
22. 22
Machine description:
Bursting Tester consists of two clamps on the top of the machine. Under clamps there is a rubber
diagram. Under rubber diagram there is liquid pipe which containing liquid. There is a pressure
gauge is one side and there is a piston is another side.
Working procedure:
1. The fabric sample is clamped over the rubber diaphragm.
2. The pressure in the fluid increases at such a rate that the specimen bursts within 20 ± 3 sec.
(P1).
3. The height (extension) of the diaphragm is noted
4. Another test is carried out without a specimen.
5. The pressure to do this is noted and then deducted from the earlier reading
6. (P1 - P2) is the actual bursting strength of the specimen
Precaution:
The pressure in the fluid should be increase at the specimen bursts within (20 ± 3
sec.) (P1).
The height of the diaphragm should be noted carefully.
Fabric count:
The determination of fabric count measures the number of warp yarns per inch and the number
of weft yarns per inch. The fabric count is the number of warp and weft yarns per unit distance
while the fabric is held without tension and is free from folds and wrinkles.
Principle:
The number of warp (ends) and filling (picks) for woven fabric or wales and courses for knitted
fabric per unit distance are determined by using suitable magnifying and counting devices.
Apparatus:
1. Pick glass
2. Counting device
3. Sample
4. Scissor
Etc.
23. 23
Fig: Pick Glass.
Machine Description:
Machine of fabric count is very simple. The main part of this machine 1” X 1” scale. It has a
magnifying glass.
Working procedure:
1. Take at least 3 specimens greater than 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 in.) from each garment from different
places.
2. Condition the specimens for a minimum of 2 hours at 21° +/- 1C (70° +/- 2F) temperature
and 65 +/- 2% RH.
3. The yarn counting should be done in the middle and not at the edge of the specimen.
4. Place the pick glass on the specimen resting on a flat surface. Look through the pick glass to
determine whether the counting can be done more easily on the face or on the back. Count
on either face or back, whichever is easier.
5. Line up the left edge of the opening in the base of the pick glass with the first yarn to be
counted.
6. Use pick needle to point to the yarns as they are counted from one edge to the opposite edge
of the base of the pick glass.
7. Calculate the average fabric (thread) count of the three specimens for each direction of the
fabric.
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Precaution:
Ends and picks yarn should be counted carefully.
The fabric count should be calculated accurately .
Fabric thickness:
Principle:
Fabric thickness means the distance between two plane parallel plates when they are separated
by cloth.
Apparatus:
1. Shirley thickness gauge.
2. Fabric.
3. Scissor
etc.
Machine description:
There is a dial on the top of the machine. A pointer is fixed in the dial. Under the dial there is
presser foot shaft. There is an adjacent loading unit on the machine. Presser foot is attached with
collar. There is a presser foot under the collar and the base of the machine anvil is attached.
Fabric is put between presser foot and anvil.
Working Procedure:
1 .Fabric is cut according to the dimension of presser foot
2. Put the fabric between presser foot and anvil.
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3. We start loading with increasing gradually until pointer has stopped.
4. We measure thickness with each and every load.
5. Then we start unloading with decreasing gradually unit the pointer becomes the initial
position.
6. We calculate average thickness and average load.
7. Finally we get average thickness corresponding average load.
Precaution:
Pointer should be kept in zero position before loading.
Load should be increased gradually and also decreased gradually.
Flammability:
Principle:
A flammable fabric is one which propagates flame, i.e. it can continues to burn after the igniting
flame has been removed.
Apparatus:
1. Sample
2. Scissor
3. Stop watch
4. Burner
5. Flammability tester
etc.
Fig. : Flammability tester.
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Machine description:
This machine is fully covered with glass box or transparent plastic. It has a sample rack
at 45 degree angle to set the sample for experiment. It also has a burner opposite of
sample rack. At the bottom, automatic timing device is used for time setting. Below the
timing device there is a control panel board.
Working procedure:
1. Sample is taken of (6″×2″)
2. Sample is dried for 30 min. at 105 degree.
3. Then Sample is cooled down& kept it for 15 min.
4. Sample is placed on the sample rack
5. Setting time 1 sec. on the automatic timing device & switched on the machine for
burning.
6. Fabric flammability time is measured by stop watch.
7. According to the burning time we select the flam class by the following way:
Flammability classes:
1) class -1 (Normal flammability)
Textile which have no unusual burning characteristics
2) class-2 (Intermediate flammability)
Textile having flammability characteristics between normal & “rapid and intense”
burning.
3) class-3(rapid and intense burning)
Textile considered dangerously flammable and unsuitable for clothing due to rapid
and intense burning.
Precaution:
Sample should be cut at (6″×2″)
Length of the flame should be 5/8″
Selection of class according to burning time should be perfect
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Conclusion:
To determine the properties & characteristics of fiber, yarn , fabric & end products.
Testing is the essential thing in textile, without which we cannot give the performance
assurance of textile product. Though it helps to assure performance, it is necessary to
do the testing and control of quality very carefully and required skilled workers. So that
quality of manufactured textile product can meet the standard norms and satisfy the
customer’s need. With the help of this assignment, we know about testing properties and
testing procedure of woven fabric . We can learn a lot of things by this assignment and it will
help us in our future life.
References :
1. Principles of Textile Testing by J.E. Booth, B.sc.,F.T.I
2.Textile Testing by P. ANGAPPAN, B.Tech., M.I.S.T.E.,A.T.A.,M.I.E.. and
R. GOPALAKRISHNAN, M.Tech., M.I.S.T.E.,A.T.A.,M.I.E..
3. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com
4. http://textilequalitytest.blogspot.com