This document provides an overview of elements of weave design, including methods of weave representation, repeat of weave and shift, drafts, and the relationship between weave, draft, and lifting plan. It discusses various types of drafts including straight, skip, pointed, broken, divided, grouped, and curved drafts. Requirements for drawing-in warp yarns are outlined. The document also provides examples of a straight draft arrangement and constructing a weaving plan from given elements.

1. Guest lecture on
FABRIC STRUCTURE AND
DESIGN
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
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2. PART – I
ELEMENTS OF
WEAVE DESIGN
by
Gopalakrishnan Duraisamy
Quantum Textile Professional & Team
Coimbatore
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3. Methods of Weave
Representation
• Divided into 2 type:
1. Warp overlap
2. Weft overlap
• 2 methods of weave representation:
1. Linear Method 2. Canvas Method
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6
5
4
3
2
1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
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4. Repeat of Weave and Shift
• The repeat of weave is a complete element of the
weave.
• Shift or move is the distance from a painted square on
one horizontal space to the corresponding painted
square on the next horizontal space
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9
8
7
6
5
Ry
4
3
2 1 2
1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Warp repeat, Rx = 5
Weft repeat, Ry = 5
Sy = Horizontal Shift
Sx = Vertical Shift
Fundamental weave: 5/2 sateen
Rx Sy
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5. Draft
• Technically it shows the sequence of raising and lowering the heald
frames or heald shaft, a set called harness for the weave formation.
• The type of weave to be produced depends on the draft.
• The basic data for constructing the draft is the weave.
• The draft is usually shown at the top of the weave diagram.
• Drafts can be classified as follows:
1. Straight draft
2. Skip draft
3. Pointed draft
4. Broken draft
5. Divided draft
6. Grouped draft
7. Curved draft
8. Combined draft
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6. Straight draft
 The simplest draft, forms the basis for many drafts.
 Each successive yarn is drawn on successive
shaft, the first warp yarn on the first shaft, the
second shaft, and so on.
The number of shafts equals the warp repeat, Draft
repeat, Rd = Warp repeat, Rx = 5 (example above).
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7. Skip draft
 Used in weaving the fabrics with a high density of warp
threads.
 Possible to use a number of shafts two or more times
greater than the warp repeat and than the minimal
necessary number of shafts for this weave.
 The density of healds on each shaft decreases, and
friction thread against thread, and thread against heald
reduces.
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8. Pointed draft
• This draft is used in weaving the fabrics with a symmetrical design, when the
straight draft cannot be applied because of a large warp repeat.
• The pointed draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts,
constructed first in one direction and then in the other.
• The change of direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft,
which are the points of reversal.
• These shafts contains only one heald each number of shafts used is about
two times less than the warp repeat of the weave: Ns = Rx/2 + 1.
• A variety of derived twills, and also the diamond designs, which are
symmetrical about their vertical and horizontal axes.
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9. Broken draft
• This draft can be considered as a modified pointed draft.
• A combination of straight drafts with different directions of constructing.
• The direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft.
• When the direction is reversed the first threads of the next group is
started higher or lower than the last thread of the preceding group.
• This small modification changes considerably the design by breaking the
axis of symmetry.
• The broken draft is applied for producing hearing bone twills, diaper
designs and some other designs.
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10. Divided draft
• This draft is employed for derived weaves, double-warp weaves,
two ply weaves, pile weaves, and some others.
• The shafts are divided into two or more groups.
• A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group.
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11. Grouped draft
• This draft is employed for production of check and
stripe designs, in which the stripes have different
weaves or their combinations.
• The draft is used for producing the fabric with two
different stripes containing 15 and 12 threads,
respectively.
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12. Curved draft Combined draft
• Curved drafts are irregular and
cannot be classified.
• These draft are applied for fancy
weaves having a large warp
repeat with the purpose of
reducing the number of shafts.
• The minimal number of shafts
equals the numbers of threads in
warp repeat with different order
of interlacing.
• The drawing-in is done applying
the rule: all warp threads which
work alike are drawn on the
same shaft.
• Oral instructions cannot be given
to the drawer, as well as to the
weaver.
• They should be supplied with
drawings of the curved draft.
• Various methods of drawing-
in can be combined in one
draft for producing a certain
type of fabric.
• Combined draft is most
complicated and can be
chosen only if there are some
technological or economical
reasons.
• It can be done properly by the
designer having a great
experience.
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13. Requirements to Drawing-In
 Studied first using a straight draft then the simplest
and suitable for the design.
 The number of shafts should be as small as
possible, but the density of healds is to be calculated
and should not exceed the standard value.
 The distribution of threads on different shafts should
be as uniform as possible.
 Used the front shafts with minimal height of lifting for
the threads with biggest number of intersections in the
weave repeat and for a weaker system of warp
threads.
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14. Weaving Plan
“Weaving plan is a characteristic of process
conditions of fabric production on the loom,
expressed in graphical form”
• Consists of 3 elements placed in certain order:
1. Repeat of weave, example plain, twill and sateen
2. Draft or drawing-in
3. lifting plan - Determines the order of lifting and
lowering the shafts in the process of forming the
weave; cam, dobby and jacquard.
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15. Example of straight draft (arrangement of warp yarn
on healdframe)
Shaft No. 4
Shaft No. 3
Shaft No. 2
Shaft No. 1
Healdwire
No. 4
Healdwire
No. 1
Healdwire
No. 2
Healdwire
No. 3
Repeat No. 1 Repeat No. 2
To warp
beam
To cloth
roller
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16. 2.6 Relation between Weave, Draft
and Lifting Plan.
In the draft,
there are 5
horizontal
spaces
which
represent
the shafts
There are 10
vertical spaces
in the lifting
plan, equal to
the number of
weft threads in
the weave
repeats
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17. 2.7 Elements Arrangement on
Weaving Plan
C B
Lifting Plan on Left Position
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18. Lifting Plan on Right Position
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19. Task 1: Construct a weaving Plan from
a Given Weave
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20. Task 2: Construct a Weave from a Given
Draft and Lifting Plan
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21. Task 3: Construct a Draft from a Given
Lifting Plan and Weave
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22. THANK YOU
Email: dgk.psgtech@gmail.com
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