1. Plain or single jersey is the simplest type of weft knitted fabric produced using a single set of needles. 2. It has a V-shape pattern on the technical face and interlocking semi-circles on the technical back. 3. Single jersey fabric is produced using a plain circular latch needle machine, which uses a single set of latch needles to form loops.

1. Weft Knitted Fabrics
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2. 2

3. Plain or single jersey
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4. Plain
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Patterning with Yarn
Plain is produced by the needles knitting as a single set,
drawing the loops away from the technical back and
towards the technical face side of the fabric.
Example: Jersey lily.

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--- Smooth
--- Having the
appearance of columns
of V’s in wales.
Technical face:
--- Having the
appearance of
columns of
interlocking semi-
circles.
Technical back:

6. Features:
• Used only a single set needle.
• Simplest and most economical production.
• 40% potential recovery after stretching.
• High covering power.
• Probability of curling yarn.
• Technical face is smooth and v-shape will show the wales.
• Technical back is rough and the head of the needle loop and the
bases of the sinker loops from columns of interlocking semi-
circles.
• If yarn breaks, needle loops successively un-mesh down a wale
and sinker loops un-mesh up a wale. This structures break down
is termed ‘Laddering’.
• It is known as ‘Shaker stitch’ as its coarse gauge of about 3
needles per inch.
• Plain can be un-roved.
• In plain un-roving can be prevented by binding off.
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8. Properties
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• Unrove
stretching
curl

9. Laddering:
• If the yarn breaks, needle loops successively un-
mesh down a wale and sinker loop un-mesh up a
wale; this structure break down is termed as
laddering.
• To prevent laddering, certain ladder resist structures
have been devised.
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10. Uses:
– Suitable for ladies hosiery.
– Suitable for single jersey fabric.
– Suitable for fully fashioned fabric.
– Suitable for ladies suiting known as ‘Jersey lily.’
– Men’s underwear.
– T-shirts.
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11. Circular Knitting Machine
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12. Plain Circular Latch needle machine:
Or Single jersey Circular knit machine:
• Single jersey fabric is produced by the plain circular
latch needle machine.
• One set of latch needle is used.
• Latch needle, cylinder and sinker ring revolve
through the stationary knitting cam systems.
• Stationary yarn feeders are situated at regular
intervals around the circumference of the cylinder.
• Yarn is supplied from cones, placed either on an
integral overhead bobbin stand or on a free standing
creels through tensioners, stop motions and guide
eyes down to the yarn feeder guides.
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14. • The fabric, in tubular form, is drawn downwards
from inside the needle cylinder by tension rollers and
is wound onto the fabric batching roller of the
winding- down frame.
• The winding down mechanism revolves in rack over
with the and fabric tube.
• As the sinker cam plate is mounted outside on the
needle circle, the centre of the cylinder is open and
the machine is referred to as an open top or sinker
top machine.
• Approximately suitable count may be obtained by
using formula-
Cotton spun count, NeC = G2/18
Worsted spun count, NeW = G2/15.
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15. The knitting head
1.Yarn feeder guide, which is associated with its own set of knitting
cams.
2.Latch needle.
3.Holding down sinker; one between every needle space.
4.Needle cylinder (revolving clockwise)
5.Cylinder driving wheel.
6.Cylinder driving gear.
7.Sinker cam-cap.
8.Sinker trick ring.
9.Needle retaining spring.
10.Needle operating cams.
11.Cam box.
12.Cam plate.
13.Head plate.

17. Different parts of Single jersey knitting machine:
• Package carrier: To hold the yarn package.
• Yarn guide: To guide yarn definite path.
• Feeder in (signal lamp, magnet) for any problem.
• Latch needles: To form loops.
• Sinker: To open or close the latch of needle.
• Needle detector: To detect needle if there is no needle at any
point.
• Fabric detector.
• Cam (Knit cam, Tuck cam, miss cam): To up and down the
needles.
• VDQ pulley (Variable diameter pulley): To control fabric GSM.
• Take up roller: To receive the fabric.
• Batch roller: To wind the fabric.
• Needle: Latch needle: For loop formation.
• Machine monitor.
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18. Knitting Action of Plain Knit Machine
Knitting action of a plain circular latch needle machine

19. a)Rest position: The sinker is forward, holding down the loop
whilst the needle rises from the rest position.
b)Clearing: The needle has been raised to its highest position
clearing the old loop from its latch.
c)Yarn feeding: The sinker is partially withdrawn allowing the
feeder to present its yarn to the descending needle hook
and also freeing the old loop so that it can slide up the
needle stem.
d)Knock over: The sinker is fully withdrawn whilst the needle
descends to knock over its old loop on the sinker belly.
e)Holding down: The sinker moves forward to hold down
new loop in its thread whilst the needle rises under the
influence of the up throw cam to the rest position where
the head of the open hook just protrudes above the sinker
belly.

20. Single Jersey Derivatives
The structural modifications are used to a very great
extent in designing plain-knit structures by
modifying the order of knitting.
The plain knit structures can be modified with the
following alternatives.
- Knit loop and miss loop
- Knit loop and tuck loop
- Knit Loop, miss loop and tuck ioop.
The following figure illustrates the notations of some
simple tuck and float stitch single jersey fabrics.
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21. Plain Knit Derivatives
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1. Single lacoste
2. Double lacoste
3. Single pique
4. Polo pique/Double pique
5. Two thread fleece
6. Three thread fleece
7. French terry etc
8.Jacquard knits
9.Knitted velour
10.Plaited knits
11. Pile knits

22. 1. Cross Miss Design:
• Cross miss is a miss-knit single jersey structure.
• So one set of needle is used to produce this structure.
• The repeat of the structure completes on two courses.
Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows:
- First course: Knit on all odd number needles and miss on
all even number needles.
- Second course: Miss on all odd number needles and knit
on all even number needles.
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23. 2. Birds Eye or Double Cross Miss
Design:
> Birds eye is a knit-miss single jersey structure.
So one set of needle is used to produce this
structure.
The repeat of the structure completes on four
courses.
 Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows:
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24. - First course: Knit on all odd number needles and
miss on all even number needles.
- Second course: Knit on all odd number needles and
miss on all even number needles. Similar as first
course.
- Third course: Miss on all odd number needles and
knit on all even number needles.
- Fourth course: Miss on all odd number needles and
knit on all even number needles. Similar as third
course.
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25. 7. Single Lacoste or Fred Perry Design:
> Single lacoste is a knit-tuck single jersey
structure.
So one set of needle is used to produce this
structure.
It is also a very popular structure to produce
cut and sew knit wear.
The prominency of the design appears on the
back side of the fabric.
The repeat of the structure completes on four
courses. Knitting sequence for a repeat as
follows:
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26. - 1st ourse: Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on
all even number needles.
- 2nd course: Knit on all needles.
- 3rd course: Tuck on all odd number needles and knit
on all even number needles, which is opposite of the
first course.
- 4th course: Similar as second course knit on an
needles.
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28. 8. Double Lacoste Design:
• Double lacoste is a tuck-knit single jersey structure.
• So one set of needle is used to produce this structure.
• It is also a very popular structure to produce cut and sew knit wear.
• The prominence of this design near to the single lacoste fabric. The
repeat of the structure completes on six courses.
• Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows:
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29. - 1st course: Knit on all odd number needles and tuck on all
even number needles.
- 2nd course: Same as first course i.e. Knit on all odd number
needles and tuck on all even number needles.
- 3rd course: Knit on all needles.
- 4th course: Tuck on all odd number needles and knit on all
even number needles, which is opposite of the rirst course.
-5th course: Same as fourth course i.e. Tuck on all odd number
needles and knit on all even number needles.
- 6th course: Similar as third course knit on all needles.
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