This document provides information about tartan patterns and how they are constructed. It explains that tartans are based on repeating stripe patterns in the warp (horizontal) and weft (vertical) directions. The sequence of stripes, known as the sett, is mirrored around pivot points in both the warp and weft. This creates the signature tartan pattern. Tartans can be described using a thread count notation that specifies the color and width of each stripe. Some key points:
- Tartans are based on repeating stripe patterns that are mirrored in the warp and weft directions.
- The sequence of stripes, or sett, is mirrored around pivot points to create the signature tartan pattern.
- Tartans can
Twill weave is a type of weave that produces diagonal lines on the fabric surface through the interlacing of warp and weft threads. The diagonal lines, known as the twill line, can form at angles between 15-75 degrees from the horizontal, with regular twill forming at a 45 degree angle. Twill weave can be classified based on the direction of the twill lines, the type of twill, and whether the twill line appears on one or both sides of the fabric. There are also several derivatives of the basic twill weave, including zigzag, hearing bone, diamond, and diaper twill patterns which produce different textured surfaces.
- Crepe weaves have a characteristic appearance of minute spots or seeds covering the cloth, with a maximum float length of less than 3. They contain no prominent twilling effects.
- Crepe weaves can be constructed by using a sateen base and adding floats in a 3x3 pattern around a central float, reversing a small unit weave pattern, or inserting one weave pattern over another to produce an irregular effect.
- Corkscrew weaves produce a warp or weft dominant surface with regular twilled ribs. They are most regularly constructed with an odd repeat number. Warp and weft corkscrew patterns are produced by adding floats vertically or horizontally following rules to have one more float than
1) Sateen and satin weaves produce fabrics with a smooth, lustrous surface by having long floats of either the warp or weft yarns across multiple yarns of the other. Sateens have weft floats while satins have warp floats.
2) Regular sateens and satins are constructed based on an interval selection rule to determine the binding point positions in a rearrangement of regular twill. Irregular sateens have no set rules.
3) Sateen and satin weaves can be modified through techniques like extension or additional floats to produce fabrics like venetian, buckskin, and swansdown weaves.
Presentation on Fabric structure & design & Plain weaveImamHossain91
The presentation provided an introduction to fabric structure and design, focusing on plain weave as the most basic weave structure. Key aspects of plain weave were defined, including the interlacing of warp and weft threads at right angles. Variations of plain weave such as rib weave and matt weave were also described, highlighting differences in their structural properties and production methods.
This document discusses dyeing yarn packages and designing colored fabrics. It describes:
- Package dyeing involves dyeing yarn that has been wound on perforated cores to allow dye liquor to flow through. The dyed packages are then dried.
- There are three main types of package dyeing machines: vertical spindle machines, horizontal spindle machines, and tube type machines.
- Colored fabrics can be designed by combining colored warp and weft yarns with different weaves. The color repeat pattern must be considered to determine the minimum number of heald shafts needed.
- Examples show how to construct color patterns based on the weave repeat and color repeats of warp and weft threads
Honeycomb, Mock Leno, Huckaback weaves and Dobby Figure Designs Azmir Latif Beg
Miscellaneous Weaves:
Honeycomb, Mock Leno,
Huckaback, Dobby Figure Designs
Designs in which the ornament consists chiefly of small, detached spots or figures are employed in nearly all classes of yarn and yarn combinations, for dress fabrics, fancy vesting, and other textures in which elaborate figure ornamentation is not desired.
1) The document discusses different basic weaves including plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. It explains how each weave is constructed and provides examples of fabrics made with each weave type.
2) Graph paper is used to represent weaves, with squares indicating where warp and weft threads interlace. Different graph paper sizes are used depending on the thread count of the fabric.
3) Derivatives and variations of the basic weaves are also covered, such as basket weave, rib weave, herringbone twill, and diamond and diaper twill designs. The uses of twill weave for different fabric types is mentioned.
A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads.
These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp
threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are those that
run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are termed as ends and
the weft as picks or fillings.
Twill weave is a type of weave that produces diagonal lines on the fabric surface through the interlacing of warp and weft threads. The diagonal lines, known as the twill line, can form at angles between 15-75 degrees from the horizontal, with regular twill forming at a 45 degree angle. Twill weave can be classified based on the direction of the twill lines, the type of twill, and whether the twill line appears on one or both sides of the fabric. There are also several derivatives of the basic twill weave, including zigzag, hearing bone, diamond, and diaper twill patterns which produce different textured surfaces.
- Crepe weaves have a characteristic appearance of minute spots or seeds covering the cloth, with a maximum float length of less than 3. They contain no prominent twilling effects.
- Crepe weaves can be constructed by using a sateen base and adding floats in a 3x3 pattern around a central float, reversing a small unit weave pattern, or inserting one weave pattern over another to produce an irregular effect.
- Corkscrew weaves produce a warp or weft dominant surface with regular twilled ribs. They are most regularly constructed with an odd repeat number. Warp and weft corkscrew patterns are produced by adding floats vertically or horizontally following rules to have one more float than
1) Sateen and satin weaves produce fabrics with a smooth, lustrous surface by having long floats of either the warp or weft yarns across multiple yarns of the other. Sateens have weft floats while satins have warp floats.
2) Regular sateens and satins are constructed based on an interval selection rule to determine the binding point positions in a rearrangement of regular twill. Irregular sateens have no set rules.
3) Sateen and satin weaves can be modified through techniques like extension or additional floats to produce fabrics like venetian, buckskin, and swansdown weaves.
Presentation on Fabric structure & design & Plain weaveImamHossain91
The presentation provided an introduction to fabric structure and design, focusing on plain weave as the most basic weave structure. Key aspects of plain weave were defined, including the interlacing of warp and weft threads at right angles. Variations of plain weave such as rib weave and matt weave were also described, highlighting differences in their structural properties and production methods.
This document discusses dyeing yarn packages and designing colored fabrics. It describes:
- Package dyeing involves dyeing yarn that has been wound on perforated cores to allow dye liquor to flow through. The dyed packages are then dried.
- There are three main types of package dyeing machines: vertical spindle machines, horizontal spindle machines, and tube type machines.
- Colored fabrics can be designed by combining colored warp and weft yarns with different weaves. The color repeat pattern must be considered to determine the minimum number of heald shafts needed.
- Examples show how to construct color patterns based on the weave repeat and color repeats of warp and weft threads
Honeycomb, Mock Leno, Huckaback weaves and Dobby Figure Designs Azmir Latif Beg
Miscellaneous Weaves:
Honeycomb, Mock Leno,
Huckaback, Dobby Figure Designs
Designs in which the ornament consists chiefly of small, detached spots or figures are employed in nearly all classes of yarn and yarn combinations, for dress fabrics, fancy vesting, and other textures in which elaborate figure ornamentation is not desired.
1) The document discusses different basic weaves including plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. It explains how each weave is constructed and provides examples of fabrics made with each weave type.
2) Graph paper is used to represent weaves, with squares indicating where warp and weft threads interlace. Different graph paper sizes are used depending on the thread count of the fabric.
3) Derivatives and variations of the basic weaves are also covered, such as basket weave, rib weave, herringbone twill, and diamond and diaper twill designs. The uses of twill weave for different fabric types is mentioned.
A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads.
These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp
threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are those that
run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are termed as ends and
the weft as picks or fillings.
The document discusses different types of fundamental fabric weaves and their derivatives. It describes the key parameters that define weaves like plain, twill, sateen, and how weaves are constructed. Some key weave derivatives discussed are reinforced twill, compound twill, angled twill, diagonal twill, and shaded twill. Examples are provided to illustrate how to construct different derivative weaves based on fundamental weave patterns.
The document discusses different types of twill weave structures and designs, including:
(1) Continuous twills that form diagonal lines across the fabric with variations in warp/weft float ratios.
(2) Zig zag and wavy twills that create non-straight diagonal patterns through periodic reversals of the twill direction.
(3) Broken and rearranged twills like herringbone that break up the twill lines through offsets, cuts, or changes in the float sequence.
(4) Combination twills that combine elements of different base twill structures to form complex patterns and designs.
- The document discusses different types of plain and twill weaves.
- Plain weave is the simplest weave with threads alternating over and under each other. Twill weaves form diagonal lines across the fabric.
- Twill weaves can be classified as warp-faced, weft-faced, and warp/weft faced. They include variations like satin, herringbone, and broken twills.
- Fabric properties like strength, thickness and coverage depend on the type of weave and number of thread intersections. Twill weaves produce stronger, more compact fabrics than plain weave.
This document discusses weaving plans, which characterize the process conditions for fabric production on a loom. A weaving plan consists of three elements: the repeat of the weave (e.g. plain, twill, sateen), the draft or drawing-in of warp yarns on heddles, and the lifting plan which determines the raising and lowering of heddles to form the shed for the weft yarn to pass through. Different types of drafts are described including straight, skip, pointed, broken, divided, grouped, and curved drafts. Requirements for drawing-in warp yarns are also outlined. Examples of a straight draft arrangement and how a weaving plan relates to a
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing warp and weft threads at right angles. There are simple and compound woven structures. Simple structures have one warp and weft thread, while compound structures may have more than one series of threads. There are three basic elements in a woven design: the design, draft or drawing plan, and peg or lifting plan. The design shows the thread interlacement pattern. The draft indicates how ends are drawn through heddles and number of heddle shafts. The peg plan denotes the order of lifting heddle shafts.
This document provides information on plain weave and twill weave structures. It discusses the key characteristics of plain weave, including that it is the simplest weave with a repeat size of 2 and produces a relatively strong fabric. Twill weaves are more complex and form diagonal lines. Different types of twill weaves are described, including warp face, weft face, and combination twills. The document also covers end uses for plain weave and twill weave fabrics.
Sateen and satin weaves produce smooth, lustrous fabrics. Sateen has a weft effect while satin has a warp effect. They are defined by their repeat (R) and shift (S), where the repeat is greater than 5, not equal to 6, and the shift is between 1 and R-1. Examples given are sateen 5/3 and 7/3. Sateen is denoted by a fraction where the numerator is the repeat and denominator is the shift. Satin and sateen weaves are used for applications like doeskin, linings, and bridal gowns. Variations can be made through additions or subtractions of floats in regular or irregular patterns
1. The document discusses various aspects of fabric structure and design, including different types of weave structures like plain, twill, satin, and their characteristics.
2. It also covers topics like the basic elements of a woven design, different drafting systems, and how to identify the face and back of a fabric.
3. Different types of weave structures and their derivatives are categorized. Factors that affect woven cloth structure are enumerated.
This document provides information on extra warp and weft figured fabrics. It discusses two methods of producing these fabrics: 1) using extra warp threads and 2) using extra weft threads. For extra warp fabrics, a separate warp beam is needed along with a dobby mechanism. For extra weft, a drop box mechanism is required. Both methods allow figuring in single or multiple colors. The document provides examples of motif designs and how the ground and extra threads interlace to produce the final figured fabric pattern.
Presentation on Plain Weave and some Elementary terms of Textilel DesignMahbubay Rabbani Mim
The document discusses various aspects of fabric structure and design, including:
- Definitions of fabric, structure, design, weave, and classification of woven fabrics as simple or compound structures.
- Identification of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics.
- Graphical representation of fabric designs including base design, main design, drafting plan, and lifting plan.
- Different drafting systems used in weaving like straight, skip, broken, and pointed drafts.
- Terminology related to fabric structure like contact fields, interlacing fields, interlacing ratio, and texture.
- Examples of basic weaves like plain weave and its derivatives like warp rib, we
The presentation discusses various basic weaves including plain weave, warp rib weave, weft rib weave, and basket weave. Plain weave is the simplest weave with warp and weft yarns alternating over and under in a repeating pattern. Warp rib and weft rib weaves extend the plain weave structure in the warp or weft direction respectively to create ribbing effects. Basket weave is a variation of plain weave where adjacent yarns are grouped and woven as a single unit, creating a checkerboard pattern. Each weave type has unique characteristics that determine its properties and end uses.
This document discusses the Bedford cord fabric structure. It begins by defining the Bedford cord as having longitudinal warp lines with fine sunken lines in between, constructed on alternate or paired picks. Cotton or worsted yarns are commonly used. The design involves two warp thread groups - face threads that weave as cord and plain weave, and cutting ends that weave plain. Wadding threads are sometimes added between warp threads to increase prominence and weight. Bedford cords are classified as plain faced, plain faced wadded, or twill faced, and construction details are provided for each type. The document also discusses crepon, welts, piques, and references textile design books.
The document discusses various weaving, knitting, and fabric finishing techniques. It begins by defining weaving and knitting as the two main fabrication processes for producing woven and knit fabrics. It then provides details on specific weaving structures like plain, twill, satin and their formulas. The document also discusses different knitting structures categorized into basic and fancy types along with their characteristics. Finally, it lists various wet processing techniques used in washing, printing and embroidering fabrics to achieve different surface effects.
1. Twill weave is a type of fabric woven with a diagonal parallel pattern created by passing the weft over one warp thread and under two or more.
2. The document discusses the classification, features, and derivatives of twill weaves. Twill weaves are classified based on construction method, direction of twill lines, prominence of warp or weft threads, and nature of the twill line.
3. Derivatives include zigzag, herringbone, broken, and curved twills created by reversing the twill direction periodically. Wavy twills introduce horizontal or vertical zigzag patterns by reversing the twill across or along the fabric.
The document discusses various aspects of fabric structures, classifications, and weaves. It begins by classifying fabrics into woven, knitted, and non-woven categories. Within woven fabrics, it further classifies them into simple, compound, and complex structures. The document then discusses the fundamental aspects of woven fabrics, including the use of warp and weft threads. It provides graphical representations of weaves such as plain weave. The document also discusses various types of drafts used in weaving, including straight, pointed, skip, and sateen drafts. It concludes by discussing modifications and ornamentation of plain weave fabrics such as warp ribs, weft ribs, and matt ribs.
Introduction, Classification,Characteristics, plain weave,Modification of plain weave, warp rip weave, weft rip weave, uses, matt rib weave, Twill weave, Classification of twill weave, right hand and left hand twill herring bone, satin and sateen weave and End uses of satin and sateen weave
Twill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and produces diagonal line on the face of fabric.
In a regular twill the diagonal line or twill line produces at 45 degree angle with the horizontal.
Concept:
The most characteristic of twill is that they have diagonal lines on the cloth.
The document discusses different types of weaves used in fabric structures, including plain, twill, sateen, and their derivatives. It describes the parameters that define each weave type, such as repeat and shift. Derivative weaves are constructed from fundamental weaves and retain some of their structural features. Examples of derivative weaves include reinforced twill, compound twill, angled twill, and shaded twill or sateen, which create transitional effects between warp-faced and weft-faced structures. Diagrams and fabric samples illustrate several weave patterns.
This document summarizes four fundamental weaves: plain weave, twill weaves, and satin/sateen weaves. It describes the general characteristics of elementary weaves as having a constant shift where each warp and weft overlaps only one thread of the opposite system within a repeat. Plain weave is defined as the simplest weave with warp and weft threads alternating their over-under interlacement. Twill weaves are characterized by diagonal lines and specified by a fraction indicating the repeat and shift. Satin/sateen weaves produce a smooth surface and are denoted by a fraction representing the repeat and shift which must fit certain mathematical criteria. Examples of fabrics produced by each weave are provided.
This chapter discusses derivatives of elementary weaves such as plain, twill, and satin/sateen weaves. There are three main types of derivatives: 1) plain weave derivatives like rib weaves and hopsack weaves, 2) twill weave derivatives, and 3) satin/sateen derivatives. Rib weaves are made by extending the plain weave in the warp or weft direction, forming vertical or horizontal ribs. Hopsack weaves extend the plain weave in both directions. These weaves are less stiff than plain weave and are used for fabrics like apparel, drapery, and selvedges. Students are assigned to draw weave diagrams for various rib
The document discusses different types of fundamental fabric weaves and their derivatives. It describes the key parameters that define weaves like plain, twill, sateen, and how weaves are constructed. Some key weave derivatives discussed are reinforced twill, compound twill, angled twill, diagonal twill, and shaded twill. Examples are provided to illustrate how to construct different derivative weaves based on fundamental weave patterns.
The document discusses different types of twill weave structures and designs, including:
(1) Continuous twills that form diagonal lines across the fabric with variations in warp/weft float ratios.
(2) Zig zag and wavy twills that create non-straight diagonal patterns through periodic reversals of the twill direction.
(3) Broken and rearranged twills like herringbone that break up the twill lines through offsets, cuts, or changes in the float sequence.
(4) Combination twills that combine elements of different base twill structures to form complex patterns and designs.
- The document discusses different types of plain and twill weaves.
- Plain weave is the simplest weave with threads alternating over and under each other. Twill weaves form diagonal lines across the fabric.
- Twill weaves can be classified as warp-faced, weft-faced, and warp/weft faced. They include variations like satin, herringbone, and broken twills.
- Fabric properties like strength, thickness and coverage depend on the type of weave and number of thread intersections. Twill weaves produce stronger, more compact fabrics than plain weave.
This document discusses weaving plans, which characterize the process conditions for fabric production on a loom. A weaving plan consists of three elements: the repeat of the weave (e.g. plain, twill, sateen), the draft or drawing-in of warp yarns on heddles, and the lifting plan which determines the raising and lowering of heddles to form the shed for the weft yarn to pass through. Different types of drafts are described including straight, skip, pointed, broken, divided, grouped, and curved drafts. Requirements for drawing-in warp yarns are also outlined. Examples of a straight draft arrangement and how a weaving plan relates to a
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing warp and weft threads at right angles. There are simple and compound woven structures. Simple structures have one warp and weft thread, while compound structures may have more than one series of threads. There are three basic elements in a woven design: the design, draft or drawing plan, and peg or lifting plan. The design shows the thread interlacement pattern. The draft indicates how ends are drawn through heddles and number of heddle shafts. The peg plan denotes the order of lifting heddle shafts.
This document provides information on plain weave and twill weave structures. It discusses the key characteristics of plain weave, including that it is the simplest weave with a repeat size of 2 and produces a relatively strong fabric. Twill weaves are more complex and form diagonal lines. Different types of twill weaves are described, including warp face, weft face, and combination twills. The document also covers end uses for plain weave and twill weave fabrics.
Sateen and satin weaves produce smooth, lustrous fabrics. Sateen has a weft effect while satin has a warp effect. They are defined by their repeat (R) and shift (S), where the repeat is greater than 5, not equal to 6, and the shift is between 1 and R-1. Examples given are sateen 5/3 and 7/3. Sateen is denoted by a fraction where the numerator is the repeat and denominator is the shift. Satin and sateen weaves are used for applications like doeskin, linings, and bridal gowns. Variations can be made through additions or subtractions of floats in regular or irregular patterns
1. The document discusses various aspects of fabric structure and design, including different types of weave structures like plain, twill, satin, and their characteristics.
2. It also covers topics like the basic elements of a woven design, different drafting systems, and how to identify the face and back of a fabric.
3. Different types of weave structures and their derivatives are categorized. Factors that affect woven cloth structure are enumerated.
This document provides information on extra warp and weft figured fabrics. It discusses two methods of producing these fabrics: 1) using extra warp threads and 2) using extra weft threads. For extra warp fabrics, a separate warp beam is needed along with a dobby mechanism. For extra weft, a drop box mechanism is required. Both methods allow figuring in single or multiple colors. The document provides examples of motif designs and how the ground and extra threads interlace to produce the final figured fabric pattern.
Presentation on Plain Weave and some Elementary terms of Textilel DesignMahbubay Rabbani Mim
The document discusses various aspects of fabric structure and design, including:
- Definitions of fabric, structure, design, weave, and classification of woven fabrics as simple or compound structures.
- Identification of warp and weft yarns in woven fabrics.
- Graphical representation of fabric designs including base design, main design, drafting plan, and lifting plan.
- Different drafting systems used in weaving like straight, skip, broken, and pointed drafts.
- Terminology related to fabric structure like contact fields, interlacing fields, interlacing ratio, and texture.
- Examples of basic weaves like plain weave and its derivatives like warp rib, we
The presentation discusses various basic weaves including plain weave, warp rib weave, weft rib weave, and basket weave. Plain weave is the simplest weave with warp and weft yarns alternating over and under in a repeating pattern. Warp rib and weft rib weaves extend the plain weave structure in the warp or weft direction respectively to create ribbing effects. Basket weave is a variation of plain weave where adjacent yarns are grouped and woven as a single unit, creating a checkerboard pattern. Each weave type has unique characteristics that determine its properties and end uses.
This document discusses the Bedford cord fabric structure. It begins by defining the Bedford cord as having longitudinal warp lines with fine sunken lines in between, constructed on alternate or paired picks. Cotton or worsted yarns are commonly used. The design involves two warp thread groups - face threads that weave as cord and plain weave, and cutting ends that weave plain. Wadding threads are sometimes added between warp threads to increase prominence and weight. Bedford cords are classified as plain faced, plain faced wadded, or twill faced, and construction details are provided for each type. The document also discusses crepon, welts, piques, and references textile design books.
The document discusses various weaving, knitting, and fabric finishing techniques. It begins by defining weaving and knitting as the two main fabrication processes for producing woven and knit fabrics. It then provides details on specific weaving structures like plain, twill, satin and their formulas. The document also discusses different knitting structures categorized into basic and fancy types along with their characteristics. Finally, it lists various wet processing techniques used in washing, printing and embroidering fabrics to achieve different surface effects.
1. Twill weave is a type of fabric woven with a diagonal parallel pattern created by passing the weft over one warp thread and under two or more.
2. The document discusses the classification, features, and derivatives of twill weaves. Twill weaves are classified based on construction method, direction of twill lines, prominence of warp or weft threads, and nature of the twill line.
3. Derivatives include zigzag, herringbone, broken, and curved twills created by reversing the twill direction periodically. Wavy twills introduce horizontal or vertical zigzag patterns by reversing the twill across or along the fabric.
The document discusses various aspects of fabric structures, classifications, and weaves. It begins by classifying fabrics into woven, knitted, and non-woven categories. Within woven fabrics, it further classifies them into simple, compound, and complex structures. The document then discusses the fundamental aspects of woven fabrics, including the use of warp and weft threads. It provides graphical representations of weaves such as plain weave. The document also discusses various types of drafts used in weaving, including straight, pointed, skip, and sateen drafts. It concludes by discussing modifications and ornamentation of plain weave fabrics such as warp ribs, weft ribs, and matt ribs.
Introduction, Classification,Characteristics, plain weave,Modification of plain weave, warp rip weave, weft rip weave, uses, matt rib weave, Twill weave, Classification of twill weave, right hand and left hand twill herring bone, satin and sateen weave and End uses of satin and sateen weave
Twill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and produces diagonal line on the face of fabric.
In a regular twill the diagonal line or twill line produces at 45 degree angle with the horizontal.
Concept:
The most characteristic of twill is that they have diagonal lines on the cloth.
The document discusses different types of weaves used in fabric structures, including plain, twill, sateen, and their derivatives. It describes the parameters that define each weave type, such as repeat and shift. Derivative weaves are constructed from fundamental weaves and retain some of their structural features. Examples of derivative weaves include reinforced twill, compound twill, angled twill, and shaded twill or sateen, which create transitional effects between warp-faced and weft-faced structures. Diagrams and fabric samples illustrate several weave patterns.
This document summarizes four fundamental weaves: plain weave, twill weaves, and satin/sateen weaves. It describes the general characteristics of elementary weaves as having a constant shift where each warp and weft overlaps only one thread of the opposite system within a repeat. Plain weave is defined as the simplest weave with warp and weft threads alternating their over-under interlacement. Twill weaves are characterized by diagonal lines and specified by a fraction indicating the repeat and shift. Satin/sateen weaves produce a smooth surface and are denoted by a fraction representing the repeat and shift which must fit certain mathematical criteria. Examples of fabrics produced by each weave are provided.
This chapter discusses derivatives of elementary weaves such as plain, twill, and satin/sateen weaves. There are three main types of derivatives: 1) plain weave derivatives like rib weaves and hopsack weaves, 2) twill weave derivatives, and 3) satin/sateen derivatives. Rib weaves are made by extending the plain weave in the warp or weft direction, forming vertical or horizontal ribs. Hopsack weaves extend the plain weave in both directions. These weaves are less stiff than plain weave and are used for fabrics like apparel, drapery, and selvedges. Students are assigned to draw weave diagrams for various rib
This document discusses derivatives of elementary weaves such as plain, twill, and satin/sateen weaves. It describes two types of rib weaves - warp rib and weft rib weaves - that are obtained by extending the plain weave in the warp or weft direction. Regular and irregular variations are discussed. Hopsack weaves are also described as extending the plain weave both vertically and horizontally in regular and irregular patterns. Examples of weave diagrams are provided to illustrate how to draw patterns for different weave derivatives. The applications of rib and hopsack weaves in various fabrics are mentioned.
The document analyzes the basic structures of weft knitting fabrics. It describes four primary structures: single jersey/plain knit, rib, interlock, and purl. Each structure is defined by its appearance, extensibility, edge curling properties, ability to unravel, and common end uses. The single jersey/plain knit structure forms the simplest balanced fabric. Rib structures require two needle beds and form fabrics with faces of loops on both sides. Interlock fabrics are locked on both sides but can be stretched. Purl structures involve special needles and form fabrics with horizontal rib effects.
Fabric structures are made by interlacing yarns or intermeshing loops. The four major fabric manufacturing technologies are weaving, knitting, non-woven, and braiding. Weaving and knitting allow for dimensional designs while nonwoven and braided fabrics do not. Woven fabrics are made by interlacing warp and weft yarns at right angles using looms. Woven structures can be simple, with one warp and weft, or compound with more than one set of threads. Fundamental weaves include plain weave, twill, satin, and sateen which have characteristics like strength, drape, and surface appearance dependent on the weave structure and design
This document discusses various types of fabric structures and weaves. It begins with an introduction to the main methods of fabric production - weaving, knitting, and non-woven. It then focuses on woven fabrics and provides details on the classification, representation, and basic elements of woven designs. The key woven structures discussed include plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weave. For each weave type, the document explains the weave repeat, shift, characteristics, and examples. It also covers various types of draft plans and their uses for different woven structures.
Weaves are formed by interlacing two sets of threads called warp and weft. Woven structures are classified as simple or compound based on the number of thread series. The repeat of a weave indicates the minimum number of warp and weft threads for a given pattern, comprising the warp and weft repeat sizes. Weaves can be represented by design drafts showing the interlacing pattern, peg or lifting plans indicating heald shaft order, and drafting plans depicting thread arrangement. Basic elements include the design, draft, and peg plan. Plain weave and twill weave are common structures.
This document provides information about a presentation given by Md. Golam Mortuza Limon on fabric structure and design. The presentation covered topics such as introduction to fabric structure, identification of warp and weft, classification of woven structures, and characteristics of plain weave. It defined key terms, described different types of woven structures and their features, and provided examples of plain weave derivatives like rib, matt, and fancy weaves. Diagrams and formulas were included to illustrate weaving patterns and drafting plans.
Presentation on plain weave or fabric structure & designJashiarRahman
This document provides information on different types of yarns used in weaving (warp and weft yarns), weave structures like plain weave and its derivatives like rib weave and matt weave. It discusses the key characteristics of different weave types including repeat size, number of shafts required, effect on the fabric surface and strength. The document also covers concepts like interlacing ratio, free fields and drafting plans that determine the weaving pattern. Overall, the document presents an overview of fundamental weaving concepts and how yarn structure and weave pattern influence the properties of woven fabrics.
THIS COVERS HONEY COMB, BRIGHTON HONEY COMB, HUCK A BACK, DISTORTED THREAD EFFECT AND OTHER WEAVES.. IT IS VERY MUCH USEFUL TO TEXTILE DIPLOMA AND DEGREE STUDENTS
This document discusses weaving plans, which characterize the process conditions for fabric production on a loom. A weaving plan consists of three elements: the repeat of the weave (e.g. plain, twill, sateen), the draft or drawing-in of warp yarns on heddles, and the lifting plan which determines the raising and lowering of heddles to form the shed for the weft yarn to pass through. Different types of drafts are described including straight, skip, pointed, broken, divided, grouped, and curved drafts. Requirements for drawing-in warp yarns are outlined. Examples of a straight draft arrangement and how a weaving plan relates to a d
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This document provides an overview of elements of weave design, including methods of weave representation, repeat of weave and shift, drafts, and the relationship between weave, draft, and lifting plan. It discusses various types of drafts including straight, skip, pointed, broken, divided, grouped, and curved drafts. Requirements for drawing-in warp yarns are outlined. The document also provides examples of a straight draft arrangement and constructing a weaving plan from given elements.
This document provides a syllabus and overview of woven fabric structures and analysis. It discusses the fundamentals of woven design, including the basic elements of design, draft, and peg plan. It then covers specific weave structures like plain weave and its derivatives. Twill weave is classified and examples like pointed twill are outlined. Different types of drafts and their uses are also summarized. The goal is to teach students to analyze and understand the construction and properties of various woven fabrics.
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1. What is Tartan?
Tartan can initially appear complex in design but is based on a simple concept - a pattern of
stripes which repeats in both a horizontal and verticle direction - in weaving terms the 'warp' and
the 'weft'. A sequence of stripes (the sett) starting at one edge is repeated but in reverse order
round a 'pivot' point. The sett reverses again and repeats round a second pivot point - see diagram
'A'. This process continues for the width of the material in question. The same sett and mirroring
sequence occurs in the weft - diagram 'B' - continuing for the entire length of the material. The
resulting combination of warp and weft is the tartan - diagram 'C'. (Note that the pivots
themselves are not doubled in the mirroring process).
Illustrations by Don Pottinger
{gallery}large_images{/gallery}Click on this image for an enlarged view
Some tartans - known as 'asymetrical' or 'non mirrored' do not reverse the sequence at the pivot
points but simply repeat the sett in the same sequence. A very small number of tartans have
different thread counts for the warp and the weft.
A description of a tartan can be written in a format known as the 'thread count' or the 'sett'. This
identifies the colour and width of the stripes between two pivot points and incorporates the same
information for the pivot points themselves. It takes the form of e.g. B16, LG8, K4, G24, K6 -
reading the sequence from the left. The outside threads (B16 and K6 in the example given) are
the pivot points. The colour is determined by a one to three letter shorthand - 'K' for example is
black, 'B' is blue, 'LG' is light green and so on. The number after the letter is the proportional
measurement - it does not matter what unit of measurement is used as the actual tartan pattern
will remain the same - reflecting the abstract nature of tartan design. Traditionally the number
refers to the number of threads used to set the loom but this can of course vary depending on the
type and weight of thread used - modern tartan fabric can be made from silk, wool, cotton, poly-
viscose, etc. In addition tartan designs are now used extensively on non-woven materials - paper,
plastics, packaging, wall coverings, etc. although some claim that a tartan needs to be woven
before it can be considered a 'true' tartan.
2. UNIT Ⅱ
Compound Structure
Introduction:
Fundamental and combined weaves are considered to be simple, though there is a great variety of
types and constructions. In these weaves, only one system of warp threads is interlaced with one
system of weft threads at right angles. Due to this, the methods of construction of these weaves
and production of fabrics of such weaves at textile mills are rather simple.
Compound weave fabrics are of a specific structure, therefore special methods and
mechanisms should be used in their production.
Chapter Six
Backed weaves
The principle of backing a cloth with a second series of either weft or warp threads is to add
extra weight and warmth without interfering with the smooth surface of the fabric. The end uses
of backed cloths range from apparel to furnishing.
6.1 Backed warp weaves
1. Concept:
3. These are weaves which have two systems of warp and one system of weft. The face weave is
formed by interlacing face warp and weft. The back weave is formed by interlacing back warp
and weft.
2. Construction of warp backed weaves:
(1) Selection of face weave and back weave:
The face weave can be same as the back weave, and can be differ from the back weave, but
the face weave should be warp-faced weave such as 3/1 twill, back weave should be weft-faced
weave such as 1/3 twill.
(2) Selection of the starting point in construction of a back weave:
In order to get a better appearance of the fabric, the backing stitches (back warp floats) should
be hidden between floats on the face. So the warp floats of the back weave should be in the
middle of the adjacent warp floats of the face weave. The setting of the face warp should be
dense enough to prevent the binding marks of the back warp showing through.
(3) Determine the arrangement of the face and back warp:
The threads of the back warp can be arranged either alternately or in the proportion of two
face threads to one back thread, i.e, m:n = 1:1 or m:n = 2:1.
(4) Calculate the “new repeat”
Ro= )
Ry=
Here: LCM—Least common multiple.
Ro—The warp repeat of the backed weave.
Ry—The weft repeat of the backed weave.
Rm—Face weave warp repeat.
Rn—Back weave warp repeat.
m, n—The warp arrangement of face weave and back weave.
(5) transferring the weave:
4. E.g. A backed weave:
Face weave : ↗
Back weave : ↗
Warp ration: 1:1
Ro =
= 4×2 = 8
Ry = = 4
Construction of an backed warp weave diagram.
(1) Select : the face weave 3/1 Z twill,
the back weave 1/3 Z twill. See Fig. 6.1.
(A), (B). Arrangement 1:1.
(2) Determine the starting point which must meet the previous point (2), i.e. stitching float
should be covered by the face warp float. See Fig. 6.1 (C)
The Arabic numbers indicate the face warp ends.
The Roman numbers indicate the back warp ends.
The dots indicate the back warp threads over the weft threads.
(3) Calculate the repeat and outline the repeat.
Here: Ro = 8 Ry = 4. See Fig. 6.1 (D)
(4) Transferring the weaves
See Fig. 6.1 (E).
5. (A) (B) (C) (D)
(E)
(E)
Fig. 6.1 Construction of backed warp weave
6.2 Backed weft weaves
1. Concept:
These are weaves which have two systems of weft and one system of warp. The face weave is
formed by interlacing warp and back weft. The back weave is formed by interlacing warp and
back weft.
2. Construction of backed weft weaves:
The principles of the construction of backed weft weaves are similar to backed warp weaves.
(1) Selection of face weave and back weave
6. The face weave can be same as back weave, and can differ from the back weave, but the face
weave should be weft-faced weave such as 1/3 twill, back weave should be warp-faced weave
such as 3/1 twill.
(2) Determine the stitching distribution
The correct stitching plays a very important part in the construction. On no account must it be
visible on the face of the fabric.
The density of the fabric also plays an important part in achieving perfect stitching.
(3) Determine the arrangement of the face and back weft. The threads of the back weft can be
arranged either alternately or in the proportion of two face threads to one back thread, i.e., m:n
=1:1 or m:n = 2:1.
(4) Calculate the new repeat
The calculation of the new repeat is similar to backed warp weaves. The difference is
replacing the warp by weft.
Construction of an backed weft weave diagram is similar to backed warp weaves. We learnt
previously. Same example are shown bellow:
7. Example 1: See Fig. 6.2.
Cross-section:
Face weave = pick 1
Back weave = pick 2
Arrows = stitches.
Development of structure.
Face weave: 1/3 Z twill
Back weave: 3/1 Z twill
Stitching is marked with circles (lowering of ends).
Horizontal lines between face picks represent back picks 2,
4, 6, 8. The back picks are stitched between weft floats of
the face picks.
The stitching should be distributed in rotation over every
end to avoid different tension on individual ends.
The correct stitching plays a very important part in the
construction. On no account must it be visible on the face of
the fabric.
Transferring the weaves.
Warp: solid Weft: 1 face-1 back.
Repeat: 4 ends/8 picks.
Face weave on odd picks,
Back weave with stitching on even picks.
Lifters/: ends over back picks,
Circles are cancelled lifters (lowering of ends).
8. Reversible weave: identical interlacing on both sides of the fabric.
Completed structure with draft and lifting plan.
These symbols represent warp up.
Fig. 6.2
Construction of weft backed weave.
9.
10. Example 2:
Weft Backed
In very dense warp setts the stitching points of the backing weft may be extended over two or more repeats of
the face weave.
Cross-section:
Face weave = pick 1
Back weave = pick 2
Arrows = stitches
Face weave: 2/2 Z twill, repeated twice
Back weave: 7/1 satin
Repeat: 8 ends/16 picks
Warp: solid
Weft: 1 face-1 back pick
11. Cross-section:
Face weave = Pick 1
Back weave = pick 2
Arrows = stitches
Face weave: 2/2/1/3 Z twill
Back weave: 7/1 Z twill
Repeat: 8 ends/16 picks
warp: solid
Weft: 1 face-1 back pick
12. Fig. 6.3 Construction of weft backed weave
Example 3: see Fig. 6.4
Weft Backed
Examples of reversible weaves. The heavier yarn count in weft covers the finer warp on both sides of the
fabric entirely. These fabrics generally receive a milling and raising finish.
Cross-section:
Face weave = pick 1
Back weave = pick 2
Arrows =stitches.
Face weave: 1/4 sateen
Back weave: 4/1 satin
Repeat: 5 ends/10 picks
Warp: solid
Weft: 1 face-1 back pick
13. Cross-section:
Face weave = pick 1
Back weave = pick 2
Arrows = stitches
Face weave: 1/7 sateen
Back weave: 7/1 satin
Repeat: 8 ends/16 picks
Warp: solid
Weft: 1 face-1 back pick
Identical interlacing on both sides of the fabrics.
Fig. 6.4
Construction of backed weft weaves
14. Example 4: see Fig. 6.5
Weft Backed
Development of patterns with two effects. The cross-section shows the
interchanging of face and back picks.
Effect I
Face weave: 1/3 broken twill (pick 1,3, 5, 7)
Back weave: 3/1 broken twill (pick 2, 4, 6, 8)
Effect II
Face weave: 1/3 broken twill (pick 2, 4, 6, 8)
Back weave: 3/1 broken twill (pick 1,3, 5, 7)
Check-pattern.
Motif
To enlarge the design each section of the structure can be repeated to
achieve the required size.
Repeat of one section: 4 ends/8 picks
Warp: solid
Weft: 1 face-1 back pick
This example can be woven with 8 shafts.
15. When developing patterns, it is important to plan the weaves to cut with each other at the point of interchange
between face and back. This assures clarity of design.
Motifs.
Each square represents 4 ends/8 picks.
Each symbol of the condensed draft above the motif represents one group of four shafts.
These examples can be woven with 16 shafts.
These motifs can be developed with the same weaves as above.
Fig. 6.5
Construction of patterns of backed weaves
16. 3. Fabrics setting:
The proper set and yarn linear density are also important in achieving perfect appearance.
The warp density should be considerable lower, and the weft density should be higher due to
the fabric effect depending the weft.
The count for the backing pick can be softer in twist, but should not be heavier than the face
yarn, especially on a 1 face-1 back ratio.
The warp yarn should be stronger considerably due to its bearing the beating force during
weaving process.
Homework:
1. Construct backed warp weaves:
(1) Face weave 3/1↗, back weave 1/3↗, arrangement of face warp and back warp m:n=1:1
(2) face weave 8/5 satin, back weave 1/3↗, m:n=1:1.
2. Construct backed weft weaves and their cross-section diagram.
(1) face weave 1/3 broken twill, back weave 3/1 broken twill, m:n=1:1.
(2) face weave 2/2↗, back weave 3/1↗, m:n=1:1.