The document provides information on various weaving, knitting and fabric finishing techniques. It begins by defining fabrication and the processes of weaving and knitting. It then details various weaving structures like plain, twill, satin and their formulas. The document also discusses different knitting structures under basic and fancy categories. Finally, it lists various printing, embroidery and washing methods used in fabric finishing.

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Contents
1. Fabrication…………………………………………………………………… 3
2. Weaving ……………………………………………………………………… 3
a. Weaving structure flow chart…………………………………….. 4
i. Plain structure
1. Regular warp rib weave……………………………………………………………………… 5
2. Irregular warp rib weave …………………………………………………………………… 5
3. Regular weft rib weave ……………………………………………………………………… 6
4. Irregular weft rib weave …………………………………………………………………… 6
5. Regular matt weave ………………………………………………………………………….. 7
6. Irregular matt weave ………………………………………………………………………… 7
7. Stitched matt weave ………………………………………………………………………… 8
8. Fancy matt weave ……………………………………………………………………………. 8
ii. Twill structure
1. Z and S-twill weave…………………………………………………………………………… 9
2. Zigzag weave…………………………………………………………………………………….. 10
3. Herring Bone weave …………………………………………………………………………. 10
4. Diamond twill weave ………………………………………………………………………… 11
5. Diaper twill weave ……………………………………………………………………………. 11
6. Broken twill weave ……………………………………………………………………..……. 12
7. Elongated twill weave ………………………………………………………………..…….. 13
8. Stepped twill weave …………………………………………………………………..…….. 14
9. Shaded twill weave …………………………………………………………………..……… 15
iii. Satin
1. Warp satin …………………………………………………………..…………………………… 16
2. Weft satin ………………………………………………………….……………………………… 17
3. Knitting …………………………………………………………………..….. 3
a. Knitting structure flow chart …………………………………….. 18
i. Basic category
1. Single jersey structure ……………………………….……………………………………… 19
2. Rib structure …………………………………………………………….………………………. 19
3. Purl structure ……………………………………………………………………….…………… 20
4. Double jersey structure …………………………………………………………..………… 20
ii. Fancy category
1. Shaker or half – cardigan …………………………………………………………….…… 20
2. Full cardigan ……………………………………………………….…………………………… 20
3. Milano stitch …………………………………………………………….……………………… 21
4. Drop knit ………………………………………………………………………………..………… 22
5. Pointel stitch ……………………………………………………………………….…………… 22
6. Zigzag stitch ……………………………………………………………………………..……… 22
7. Tuck structure …………………………………………………..……………………………… 23
4. Different names of printing ………………………………………….. 24
5. Different names of embroidery ………….…………………………. 24
6. Different names of washing …………………………………………. 25

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 Fabrication:
Manufacturing process in which an item is made. For exm. Waving and knitting
process used for producing Woven fabric and knit fabric.
 Weaving:
The process in which fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of threads
according to design is called weaving.
 Knitting:
the process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a
series of yarn in weft or warp direction is called knitting. 2 types are
1. Weft knitting: the knitting technique in which the series of loops always
run in the horizontal direction (coarse direction)
2. Warp knitting: the knitting technique in which the series of loops always
run in the vertical direction (wales direction)

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 Regular warp rib weave
General Formula: x/x
Formula: 4/4
Repeat size = 2*8
 Irregular warp rib weave
General Formula: x /y
Formula: 3/5
Repeat size = 2*8

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 Regular weft rib weave
General Formula: 1/1 (x)
Formula: 1/1 (4)
Repeat size: 8*2
 Irregular weft rib weave
General Formula: 1/1 (x+y)
Formula: 1/1 (5+3)
Repeat size = 8*2

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 Regular matt weave
General Formula: x/x (x) and R.S=2x*2x
Formula: 6/6 (6)
Repeat size = 12*12
 Irregular matt weave
General Formula: x/y (x+y)
Formula: 4/2 (4+2)
Repeat size = 6*6

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 Stitched matt weave
General Formula: x/x (x)
Formula: 6/6 (6)
Repeat size = 12*12
 Fancy matt weave
General Formula: x/x (x)
Formula: 5/5 (3)
Repeat size = 10*10

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Twill structure:
 Z and S-twill weave
General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: (x+y)*(x+Y)
Formula: 2/3 (R.S = 5*5) or 3/1 (R.S = 4*4)

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 Zigzag/waved/pointed Twill Weave:
o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}*(x+y)
o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*7) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*5)
 Herring Bone Twill Weave:
o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}*(x+y)
o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*7) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*5)

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 Diamond Twill Weave:
o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}* {2*(x+y)}
o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*14) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*10)
 Diaper Twill Weave:
o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}* {2*(x+y)}
o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*14) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*10)

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 Broken Twill Weave:
o General Formula: Any
o Formula: According to that

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 Elongated Twill Weave:
o General Formula: Any
o Formula: According to that
Elongated Twill:
The twill angle from in cloth depend upon,
1. The relative ratio of ends and pick per unit length.
2. The rate of advancement of one interlacing with respect to the following one.
Normally the twill angle is 45 degree where the end and pick per unit area are equal. But in
elongated twill, the twill angle more or less than 45 degree any twill design without twill angle.
Elongated twill can be formed in two different ways:
(a) with the help of step number.
(b) By selecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line.
(a)With the help of step number:
If the step number of elongated twill is two, then by taking only odd number of warp thread from
the basic twill here the warp number in step twill will be equal to the basic twill.
(b) By selecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line:
Here at first a step number is to be selected. In such a way that the repeat of base line become divisible by
that step number.

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 Stepped Twill Weave:
o General Formula:
o Formula:
Stepped twill: Stepped twill is produced by stepping a continuous twill. This are two type stepped twill

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 shaded Twill Weave:
o General Formula:
o Formula:
By shaded twill we can create shade effect on fabric the shade effect is created by the
combination some thick to thin twills or thin to thick twills.
Satin:
Warp satin and weft satin

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 Warp or regular satin weave:
if the float of Warp yarn is more in the face side then it is called warp satin.
i.e. 6/1 sateen weave

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 Weft or Irregular satin weave:
if the float of Weft yarn is more in the face side then it is called Weft
satin. i.e. 1/6 sateen weave.

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knitting structure
Basic category
Single jersey Double Jersey
Rib
Purl
Interlock
Fancy category
Shaker or Half Cardigan
Stitch
Full Cardigan stitch
Drop knit
Tuck Stitch
Milano stitch
Poinal stitch
Zigzag stitch

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 Single Jersey Structure:
 Structure: single bed
 Construction: Jersey
 Appearance: both side not same: Technical front (T/F) – V shape and
technical back (T/B) – semi circle
 Rib Structure:
 Structure: double bed
 Construction: 1*1, 2*2rib, fancy rib(3*3, 4*4, 5*5), and derby rib (6*6)
 Appearance: Both side same but semi-circle loops observe in between V
shape loops.

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 Purl structure:
 The purl fabric is also known as links fabric.
 It is almost same with rib. One different is all ‘V’ shape or “semi-circle” loops
are in horizontal direction but in rib structure they are in vertical direction.
 Double Jersey Structure:
 Structure: double bed
 Construction: Double jersey
 Appearance: Both side same (look V shape)
 Shaker / half-cardigan Structure:
 Structure: double bed
 Construction: 1*1
 Appearance: Both side not same:
o T/F side looks fluffy or bulky effect
o T/B side looks tight ‘v’ / chain stitch.
 Full-cardigan Structure:
 Structure: double bed
 Construction: 1*1
 Appearance: Both side looks same like fluffy

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Half and full cardigan pic:
 Milano stitch:
 Structure: double bed
 Construction: Double jersey
 Appearance: Both side not same:
o T/F side looks joint ‘v’ shape stitch (after stretch can be observed)
o T/B side looks tight ‘v’ / chain stitch.

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 Drop knit:
 Any structure and construction may be like s/j, rib, d/j…) I.e. 3*1
 Appearance: Both side not same:
 Poinal stitch:
 Any structure and construction may be like s/j, rib, d/j…) I.e. 3*1
 Appearance: Looks with thing hole.
 Zigzag stitch:
 Any structure and construction may be like s/j, rib, d/j…) I.e. 3*1
 Appearance: According to the construction.

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 Tuck structure:
 Structure: double bed
 Construction: 1*1
 Appearance: for single tuck:
o T/F side looks Honey comb structure.
o T/B side looks Plain ‘v’ / chain stitch.
For double tuck: both side look honey-comb structure.
*** light tuck knit is called pique structure and heavy tuck knit is called tuck
structure.

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Different names of PRINT
Different names of EMRBOIDERY

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Different Types of Washing
1. Garments / normal wash: to remove dust, oil spot and other impurities.
2. Rinse or dark wash: to make the garments wearable or dark shade and soft.
3. Tie wash: to make uneven crease look on the garments.
4. Pigment wash: to make the garments uneven, fade or worn look.
5. Caustic wash: to increase color fastness properties.
6. Enzyme wash: to improve color fastness and anti-pilling properties. Used for only
100% cotton.
7. Stone wash: to bring the bright and make the garments more unique appearance
and soft. Used only for heavy fabric.
8. Stone enzyme wash: to bring the more brightness then stone wash. Used only
for heavy fabric.
9. Towel bleach wash: to create cloudy effect.
10. Acid or ice or white or snow wash
11. Burn out wash. Especially used for cvc or pc fabric. Cotton portion is burned
with sulfuric acid.
12. Dip dye: Color will be come light from bottom to top.
13. Cold pigment dye / oil wash / top dye/ random dye/ wave dye: to create
vintage effect (vintage effect means body will be color but not seam)
14. Fluorescent pigment dye: to make too brighter than any others. (80%OBA
and 20% color).
15. PP spot / Bleach spot
16. PP Spray
17. PP sponging or rubbing
18. Resin spot
19. Resin spray
20. Hand scrapping
21. Destroy
22. Tagging
23. Grinding
24. Manual whiskering
25. Laser whiskering
26. 2-D crinkle
27. 3-D crinkle
28. Heat pressing
29. Pigments spray

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Tie wash Towel bleach wash Burn out wash
Stone wash Stone wash Stone wash
Dip Dye Acid wash Acid wash
ColdPigmentwash
Fluorescentwash

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PP or Bleach spot PP spray PP Spray
PP sponging or rubbing
Resin spray Hand scraping Destroy

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Tagging Grading Manual Whiskering
Laser Whiskering 2-D crinkle 3-D crinkle