Fabric training for retail staff extended version

Outline

 Fibers





Fiber Classification
Properties
Characteristics
Identification Methods

 Yarns

 Spinning processes
 Identification of different types of yarn structure

 Knits

 Identification of various types of common knit fabrics

 Wovens

 Identification of various types of common woven fabrics

 Care Labelling System

 International labelling systems and symbols
Presentation By: Vinay Shekhar

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FIBRES

 Fibres are the base unit of all textile materials and
products.
 They are slender thread-like structures that can be
spun into yarns and thread, and woven, knitted or
felted into materials.


3

Fibre Classifications

 There are two types of fibres used in making textile
products – those that come from the natural
environment and those that are manufactured called
man-made fibres.


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Natural Fibres

 Natural fibres come from plants, animals and
minerals. They usually have short fibres, called
staple fibres. The exception to this rule is silk, a
natural fibre whose continuous filaments are up to
one kilometre in length!
Sources of natural fibres
 Cotton from the cotton plant
 Linen from the flax plant
 Wool from sheep
 Silk from silkworms

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Natural Plant Fibres

 Cotton – King of fibres
 Linen

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Ramie
Jute
Hemp
Pineapple
Coir
Banana
Kapok
Bamboo


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Cotton


Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fibre that grows in a boll, or
protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the
genus Gossypium.
 The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical
regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa,
and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is
found in Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa.
Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old and
New Worlds. The English name derives from the
Arabic (al) qutn
, which began to be used circa 1400 CE.
The Spanish word, "algodón", is likewise derived from
the Arabic.

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Cotton


 The fibre is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to
make a soft, breathable textile. The use of cotton for fabric is
known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric
dated from 5000 BCE have been excavated in Mexico and the
Indus Valley Civilization (modern day Pakistan). Although
cultivated since antiquity, it was the invention of the cotton
gin that so lowered the cost of production that led to its
widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural
fibre cloth in clothing today.
 Current estimates for world production are about 25
million tonnes annually, accounting for 2.5% of the world's
arable land. China is the world's largest producer of cotton, but
most of this is used domestically. The United States has been
the largest exporter for many years.

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Varieties of cotton

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Sea Island Cotton
Egyptian Cotton
Pima Cotton
American Upland Long Staple
American Upland Short Staple
Asia Short Staple


13

Properties of Cotton




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
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




It is soft
It “breathes”
It absorbs moisture
It is comfortable
It is strong and durable
It is versatile
It performs well
It has good colour retention if dyed at the fibre stage
It is easy to print on
It wrinkles easily and requires heavy ironing
It is easy to care for, easy to wash
It is a natural resource that is fully renewable

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Linen



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Properties of Linen

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It is the strongest of the vegetable fibers.
Known for the coolness and freshness in hot weather.
It is smooth and gets softer the more it is washed.
It has a high natural luster.
It is strong and durable and dries quickly
It has poor elasticity


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 Linen is one of the oldest textiles sorts in the world which is produced from linen
fiber. Even 5000 years B.C. linen garments were worn in Egypt. Linen is much more
stronger and glossy than cotton. It has anti-allergic properties, good to absorb water,
permeable for air and cool fabric. The Lithuanian people were growing linen many
years ago. The national Lithuanian songs and tales are mentioning about linen: linen
growing, snatching and spinning. The linen is named like sainted plant, sward of sun
and corn of women.



 Linen fibre is strong and not elastic, so linen fabrics crumple very easy. After each
washing the fabric becomes softer and less wrinkly.
 It is better to iron linen fabric with hot iron from the backside.
 The linen fabric does not turn yellowish, it becomes whiter and gentler after time.
 Linen fibre goes damp and dry very soon, that is why the fabric warms during cold
night and cools the body during hot midday.
 Linen fabric is resistant to static electric load. Also linen fibre is used for protective
garments of the spacemen and for protection of the spaceships outside.
 Linen fabric makes the best microclimate for the skin, i.e. it is permeable to air,
absorbs dampness and sweat very quickly.
 Linen fabrics are three times stronger than cotton fabrics.
 Linen fabrics are five times more resistant to rubbing than cotton fabrics.
 Linen fabrics absorb dampness and sweat better than cotton fabrics.
 Linen fabric is ecological. It is the product which does not leave any waste and does
not make any harm to nature and ecology.


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Natural Protein Fibers

 Wool
 Silk

 Mohair
 Cashmere
 Camel
 Alpaca
 Llama
 Vicuna
 Musk Ox - Qiviut
 Angora

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Wool

 Wool is the textile fibre obtained from sheep and
certain
other
animals,
including cashmere from goats, mohair from
goats, qiviut from muskoxen, angora from rabbits,
and other types of wool from camelids.
 Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from
hair or fur: it is crimped, it is elastic, and it grows
in staples (clusters).

Sheared or pulled from the skin of sheep.

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Types of Wool

 Camel Hair As you would expect, it's made from a camel. The undercoat
of a camel is extremely soft and fine, making it a good choice for clothing.
Camel hair provides the best insulation of all the wools so it's usually used
for coats. However, it's relatively weak and can become worn easily.
 Qiviut
This taupe-grey coloured fibre comes from the Alaskan
domesticated musk ox and is as soft as cashmere. While it weighs the
same as sheep's wool, it's eight times warmer. You'll see it used in
sweaters, scarves, gloves, and hats.
 Vicuna The most expensive of all specialty wools, vicuna sells for
anywhere from $1,300 to $3,000 per yard. However, if you're lucky enough
to afford it, you'll experience the softest and finest of fabrics. As the
Peruvian government has strict guidelines on harvesting and exporting
vicuna, it's also one of the rarest.

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Types of Wool

 Merino Merino sheep, known for having softer coats than others,
are the source of this soft and popular wool. It draws or "wicks"
moisture away from the skin on one end of the fiber and repels
outside moisture on the other.
 Alpaca Supplied by the alpaca, this fine silky fabric is warmer than
sheep wool. Look for it in sweaters, coats, gloves, scarves and
sometimes in upholstery.
 Mohair This lustrous fibre is made from the hair of the Angora
goat. Like merino, mohair fibres are moisture-wicking and good
insulators, but they have more sheen which makes fabric made
from them more attractive. It's also wears better than sheep's wool.
 Llama The llama produces a fibre which is naturally
glistening. Although they're related to alpacas, llamas have fibres
that are coarser and weaker. But they do give good warmth
without being too heavy.

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Types of Wool

 Angora Made from the hair of the Angora rabbit, this
heat-retaining fibre is ideal for thermal clothing. As it's
lightweight as well as soft, it's very comfortable to wear.
 Cashmere. Like mohair, cashmere comes from the hair of
a goat, the Kashmir goat. Soft to the touch so it's a
pleasure to wear, it's also are extremely adept at keeping
you warm. Cashmere is the most common type of fine
wool used in clothing
 Cashgora. This hybrid wool comes from a crossbreed of a
Cashmere buck and an Angora doe. You'll find it finer
than mohair but less so than cashmere.

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Properties of Wool

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Warm and comfortable to wear
Wrinkle resistance
Good resiliency when dry
Good drape and elasticity
Damaged by chlorine bleach
May shrink unless treated
Looses strength when wet
Shows pilling effect
Poor lustre and expensive
Felting of wool

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Silk

 Silk is a natural protein fibre, some forms of which can
be woven into textiles. The protein fibre of silk is composed of fibroin and
produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known type of
silk
is
obtained
from
the
cocoons
of
the
larvae
of
the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity (sericulture). The
shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure
of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at
different angles, thus producing different colours.
 Silks are produced by several other insects, but generally only the silk of
moth caterpillars has been used for textile manufacturing. There has been
some research into other silks, which differ at the molecular level. Many
silks are mainly produced by the larvae of insects undergoing complete
metamorphosis, but some adult insects such as webspinners produce silk,
and some insects such as raspy crickets produce silk throughout their lives.
Silk production also occurs in Hymenoptera (bees, wasps,
and ants), silverfish, mayflies, thrips, leafhoppers, beetles, lacewings, fleas,
flies and midges. Other types of arthropod produce silk, most notably
various arachnids such as spiders (see spider silk).

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
 Silk is called Queen of Fibers

 Silk is a natural protein secreted by the larvae of moths
 Twin filaments of protein fibroin are secreted and bound
together in a single strand with a protein gum knows as
sericin.


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Types of Silk

 Raw silk - Silk in its natural form is covered with a gum called Sericin. Raw
silk still has all the gum which is dull & stiff and can be in many colours.
Various processes can be used to remove the sericin to reveal the lustrous
fibre beneath.
 Wild Silk - This is usually not white and is from the tannins from eating
plants other than the mulberry tree. It can be courser than cultivated silk,
making it better for high wear items. It is cheaper. Wild silk cocoons are
usually gathered after the moth has emerged, therefore the staples or fibres
will have been cut, making it only suitable for spinning. It is also known as
Tussah Silk
 Cultivated Silk - This has become a highly technical and controlled
industry where silk worms are raised and fed mainly on mulberry leaves
to produce a near white coloured silk. Often the chrysalis or grub is
destroyed before it has a chance to eat its way out of the cocoon, so that the
fibre can be reeled off in one long fibre. See also Reeled Silk & Thrown Silk

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Types of Silk


 Thrown Silk - Made from the long filaments of silk up to 1500
mts long, and is nearly always made from cultivated silk. It is
more expensive due to the extra work required in reeling off
the single filaments. It requires very little twist so retains more
lustrousness, and can be woven into fabric that are almost
transparent. Also called Reeled silk. Some types of thrown silk
fabrics include: voile, georgette, organza and crepe.
 Dupion Silk - This is silk which retains the lumps where two
threads join. It is a characteristic which is admired and should
not be considered a flaw.
 Noil Silk - Made from very short staple and contains little
tangle balls of fibre

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Types of Silk

 Reeled Silk - See also Thrown Silk and Cultivated Silk

 Spun Silk - Shorter staples can be carded and woven,
much the same way as cotton or wool. Includes varieties
such as Shantung, Mutka and Noil.
 Cut Silk - See Spun Silk


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Types of Silk

 Mulberry – This type of silk is obtained from the silk worm Bombyx mori
L. that primarily survives on the leaves of the mulberry plant. These silk
worms are cultivated and reared indoors. Besides this variety, the others
are usually called non-mulberry silks. India is one of the primary
producers of mulberry silk.
 Tasar – Pronounced Tussah, this is copper brownish in colour and is
slightly coarse in texture. Tasar is mainly used for the upholstery and
interior décor. Though it does not have the sheen of mulberry silk there is a
unique appeal about this variety. It is obtained from the silkworm
Antheraea mylitta which mainly survive on the food plants Asan and
Arjun. Unlike the mulberry variety, these worms are reared outdoors in
the open.
 Oak Tasar – This is a finer variety of the previous one and is obtained from
the silk worms Antheraea proyeli J. and Antheraea pernyi. China is the
major producer of this silk type.

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Types of Silk

 Eri – Eri is a unique variety and is spun from open
ended cocoons. The silk worm species Philosamia
ricini that thrives on castor leaves generate this
variety. It is also primarily produced in India and
used for the manufacture of wraps (called chaddars).
 Muga – This has a lovely golden yellow colour and
generated from the semi-domesticated multivoltine
silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. They thrive on the
leaves of aromatic plants Som and Saolu and found
in Assam, India.

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Silk fabric Types


 Charmeuse – This silk type is one of the most widely
recognized fabrics that are available in the market today.
It is typically characterized by its lustrous shine and
sumptuous feel and is primarily used for the manufacture
of skirts, dresses, eveningwear, nightgowns, lingerie, and
gently shaped tops
 Crepe de Chine or CDC – This kind of silk has a „matte‟
surface and a „pebbled‟ texture; besides it is also
extremely durable and wrinkle resistant. Due to its light
weight, it is a hot favorite among the designers and is
primarily used for fashionable and sophisticated skirts,
dresses, suits and evening wear.

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Charmeuse

CDC


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Silk fabric Types

 Filament silk or reeled silk - Made of individual strands that vary in
length, this versatile knit fabric maximizes silk‟s superb ability to insulate
your body and wick away moisture. It is characterized by its light in
weight yet highly durable. Its elastic and luxurious texture makes it ideal
for the chic and opulent lingeries slips, and camisoles. The natural elastic
quality of this fabric ensures all day comfort and is perfect for beneath
casual & business clothes.
 Georgette – Georgette reminds one of crepe de Chine. It is soft and lustrous
that drapes very easily and falls into soft ripples. It is characterized by a
„grainy‟ texture and is used for the manufacture of dresses, skirts, blouses,
tops and evening wear.
 Habutai – “Habutai”, meaning „soft and downy‟ in Japanese was first used
for the making of Kimonos. It is soft, light, and lustrous with a very
graceful drape and smooth surface and is utilized for making blazers,
skirts, lingerie, suits, quilts, jacket linings, dresses and evening wear.

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Georgette

Habutai


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Properties of Silk

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


Most lustrous and luxurious.
Lightweight and water absorbent.
Good dye ability with rich colours.
Stronger and moderately wrinkle resistant.
Excellent drape and luxurious hand
Expensive.
Damaged by chemical exposure.
Looses strength when wet.
Silk treated with formaldehyde shows high strength,
higher resistance and reduced solubility to chemicals.

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Man-made fibres

 Man-made fibres are classified into three classes,
those made from natural polymers, those made from
synthetic polymers and those made from inorganic
materials.


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Fibres from Natural Polymers


 The most common natural polymer fibre is viscose,
which is made from the polymer cellulose obtained
mostly from farmed trees. Other cellulose-based
fibres
are
Lyocell,
Modal,
Acetate
and
Triacetate. Less common natural polymer fibres are
made from rubber, alginic acid and regenerated
protein.


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Fibres from Synthetic Polymers


 There are very many synthetic fibres i.e. organic
fibres based on petrochemicals. The most common
are polyester, polyamide (often called nylon), acrylic
and modacrylic, polypropylene, the segmented
polyurethanes which are elastic fibres known as
elastanes (or spandex in the USA), and speciality
high-tenacity fibres such as the high performance
aramids and UHMwPE (Ultra High Molecular
weight PolyEthylene).

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Fibres from Inorganic Materials


 The inorganic man-made fibres are fibres made from
materials such as glass, metal, carbon or ceramic.
These fibres are very often used to reinforce plastics
to form composites.


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Viscose


 There are several fibres made from the naturally
occurring polymer cellulose, which is present in all plants.
Mostly cellulose from wood is used to produce the fibres
but sometimes cellulose from short cotton fibres, called
linters, is the source. By far the most common cellulosic
fibre is viscose fibre.
 Viscose is defined by BISFA as being "a cellulose fibre
obtained by the viscose process". It is known as rayon
fibre in the USA. Although several cellulosic fibres had
been made experimentally during the 19th century, it was
not until 1905 that what has become the most popular
cellulosic fibre, viscose, was produced.

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Properties

Acetate:
 Acetate is soft and silky and drapes well
 It dyes well but does not absorb moisture easily
which means it dries quickly.
 Acetate is resistant to mildew and shrinkage and is
often used to make linings because it absorbs
moisture from the body.
 Acetate is also used to make home furnishings such
as drapes and bedspreads.

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Properties

Acrylic
 Is soft and luxurious and also drapes well.
 It is not a heavy fabric but it gives warmth.
 It was originally used to make outdoor goods but
now is common in clothing and carpet although pure
acrylic can result in pilling.
 It can be dyed to bright colours.
 Acrylic is made from a petrochemical called
acrylontrile.

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Properties

Latex
 Derives from the latex fibre which comes from the
milky or colourless sap of certain plants.
 It can be mixed with other fibres to make materials
such as spandex.
 It is resistant to light and heat and is waterproof.
 Examples of latex products include gloves, soles and
mattress pads.

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Properties

Nylon
 Is a polymide which is made from petroleum.
 It is durable and lightweight.
 Nylon is quick drying and cleans easily because dirt does
not cling.
 It can be static and does not absorb moisture so, if used it
clothing, it can be clammy in the heat.
 Examples of nylon products include luggage, carpeting
materials and hosiery because of its elastic recovery
ability.

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Properties

Polyester
 Is soft and strong, resistant to shrinkage and does not
stretch.
 It is a polymer which is produced from coal, water, air
and petroleum products.
 It can blend with natural fibres such as cotton or wool or
with artificial ones, to increase the fabric more durable
and easier to wash.
 It can be used in clothing, filling for upholstery, floor
coverings and insulation.

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Properties


Rayon
 Is created by the regeneration of natural materials.
 It is made from wood pulp and its properties are similar
to those of linen or cotton.
 There are various types of rayon including regular, high
tenacity, high wet modulus and microfibers.
 High tenacity rayon is strong and used mainly in
industry.
 Regular rayon is often used in clothing.
 High wet modulus has high wet strength and microfibers
are fine and silky.

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Properties

Spandex
 It can stretch up to 600 times and bounce back.
 Because of its elasticity, spandex is often used in
apparel.
 It blends well with other fabrics, especially rayon,
wool or silk.
 It is light and very comfortable to wear. Spandex is
easy to dye and absorbs moisture and body oils.
 It is often used in hosiery and lingerie.

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YARNS

 Yarn
is
a
long
continuous
length
of
interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production
of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, em
broidery, and rope-making. Thread is a type of yarn
intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern
manufactured sewing threads may be finished
with wax or other lubricants to withstand the
stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are
yarns specifically designed for hand or machine
embroidery.

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Carding

 Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles,
cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous
web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing.
This is achieved by passing the fibres between
differentially moving surfaces covered with card
clothing. It breaks up locks and unorganised clumps
of fibre and then aligns the individual fibres to be
parallel with each other.


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Carding Machine
For Wool


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Carding Machine
For Cotton


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Combing

 Combing
is
a
method
for
preparing carded fibre for spinning. It separates out
the short fibres by means of a rotating ring of steel
pins. The fibres in the 'top' it produces, have been
straightened and lie parallel to each other.
 The combs used have long metal teeth, and only
barely resemble the comb used on hair. However,
they are used in a similar fashion with one comb
holding the fibre while the other is moved through,
slowly transferring the fibre to the moving comb.

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Combing

 Combing the fibres removes the short fibres and arranges
the fibre in a flat bundle, with all the fibres going the
same direction. This preparation is commonly used to
spin a worsted yarn. Woollen yarns cannot be spun from
fibre prepared with combs, instead the fibre must
be carded. Cotton is combed when it is to be used for
quality fabric with high thread counts.
 In general, combing is done with fibres that are longer,
and carding with fibres of a shorter length. Worsted yarns
pass first through a gilling machine instead of a carder,
which starts the combing process, and then through a
comber.

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
 http://www.automation.siemens.com/mcms/mc/e
n/mechanical-engineering/textile-machine/staplefiber-spinning/combingmachine/PublishingImages/bannerkammmaschine.gif


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Spinning


 Spinning is a major industry. It is part of the textile
manufacturing process where three types of fibre are
converted into yarn, then fabrics, which undergo
finishing processes such as bleaching to become textiles.
The textiles are then fabricated into clothe or other
products. There are three industrial processes available to
spin yarn, and a handicraft community who use hand
spinning techniques. Spinning is the twisting together of
drawn out strands of fibres to form yarn, though it is
colloquially used to describe the process of drawing out,
inserting the twist, and winding onto bobbins.


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ROVING

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Production of Cotton & Polyester


 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH_b3Heo48I
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJGbg6zIugs


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PLYING

 In the textile arts, plying is a process used to create a
strong, balanced yarn. It is done by taking two or
more strands of yarn that each have a twist to them
and putting them together. The strands are twisted
together, in the direction opposite that in which they
were spun. When just the right amount of twist is
added, this creates a balanced yarn, which is a yarn
with no tendency to twist upon itself. Almost all
store bought yarns are balanced, plied yarns.


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WEAVING

 Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets
of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.
The
other
methods
are
knitting,
lace
making,
felting,
and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and
the lateral threads are the weft or filling. (Weft or woof is an
old English word meaning "that which is woven".) The method in which
these threads are inter woven affects the characteristics of the cloth.
 Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in
place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which
meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding
between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving,
back-strap, or other techniques without looms.
 The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the
weave.


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Types of weaves

I.

II.
III.
IV.

Plain weave

a.
b.

Basket/ Matt weave
Ribbed ( Warp & Wet )

Twill weave
Satin and Sateen weave
Variation of Basic weave.

a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.

Crepe
Pile (Cut/Uncut)
Double Cloth
Gauze (Leno)
Swivel
Lappet
Dobby
Jacquard
Tri-axial.

WEFT

WARP


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Plain

 The plain weave repeats on 2 Ends × 2 Picks. The
plain fabric comprises a high percentage of the total
production of woven fabrics and it can be produced
on a loom with two harness. IT has the highest
number of interlacing as compared with other
weaves and therefore it produces the firmest fabric.


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PLAIN WEAVE


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Twill

 Twill weave, the second basic weave is characterized
by diagonal lines running at angles varying between
15 and 75 degrees. A Twill Weave is denoted by
using numbers above and below a line ( such as 2/1
Twill which may be interpreted as two up one
down). There are sever types of basic twill weaves,
such as
 (a).1/2 Twill (b).2/1 Twill (c).2/2 Twill. (d).2/3
Twill, (e).3/2 (f) 3/3 Twill, (g).4/4 Twill Etc.

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Satin

 Four or more shafts with warp floats or weft floats in
interrupted diagonal. It is very lustrous, excellent
drawable. It shows floated fashion. Its has some
subcategories as, Satin, Slipper satin, Crepeback satin
etc.


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Dobby

 Dobby, a decorative weave results in small designs
or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. It is
done through dobby machines. This weave uses
various yarns from very fine to coarse and fluffy
yarns to produce a variety of fabrics. The standard
dobby weave fabrics are flat and comparatively fine.
Some examples are moss crepe, matelasse etc. Heavy
dobby fabrics are used for home furnishings and for
heavyapparel.

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94

Oxford

 Oxford weave fabrics are made with modified plain
weave or basket weave and are generally used for
apparels, particularly cotton shirting materials. The
fabric
is
fine,
soft
and
lightweight.


95


96


97

Jacquard

 Jacquard weaves, produced on a special loom, are
characterized by complex woven-in designs, often
with large design repeats or tapestry effects. Fabrics
made by this method include brocade, damask, and
brocatelle. Dobby weaves, requiring a special loom
attachment, have small, geometric, textured,
frequently repeated woven-in designs, as seen in
bird‟s-eye piqué.


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99

Herringbone

 Herringbone
describes
a
distinctive
Vshaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric.
It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break
at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag.
The pattern is called herringbone because it
resembles the skeleton of a herring fish.
Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is
one
of
the
most
popular
cloths
used
for suits and outerwear. Tweed cloth is often woven
with a herringbone pattern.

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101

Fil-a-Fil

 End-on-end (also known by its French name, Fil-a-Fil) is
essentially a plain weave where one colour yarn is
interwoven with another colour yarn. Although one of the
two colours is usually White, a great variety of end-onends have been produced in recent years. This type of
weave yields a familiar two-tone appearance. For end-onend cloths that do not incorporate a white yarn then one
of the yarn colours tends to be a darker shade of the same
colour. For example Sky Blue might be used for the 'weft'
yarn
and Mid
Blue
for
the
'warp'
yarn.

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103

Velvet

 Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the
cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short
dense pile, giving it a distinctive feel.
 The word 'velvety' is used as an adjective to mean
"smooth like velvet." Velvet can be either synthetic or
natural.


104


105


106

Piqué

 Piqué, or marcella, refers to a weaving style, normally
used with cotton yarn, which is characterized by raised
parallel cords or fine ribbing.
 Pique fabrics are a type of dobby construction. Piques
may be constructed in various patterns such as cord,
waffle, honeycomb and birds-eye piques. These fabrics
require the addition of extra yarns, called stuffer yarns.
These stuffer yarns are incorporated into the back of the
fabric to give texture and added depth to the fabric
design. Some piques may be made using the Jacquard
attachment on the loom.

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108

KNITS

 Knitted fabrics is the third major class of fabric,
after woven and nonwoven fabrics.
 Knitted fabrics are divided into two basic
types: warp-knit fabrics such as tricot and weft-knit
fabrics such as a hand-knit sweater. Weft-knit items
have the drawback that they run when cut. Warpknit fabrics are often used in lingerie.


109

Knits & Wovens: What's the Difference?



 How to identify your fabric
When you can't tell if a fabric is a knit or woven, put it through these tests:
Look for loops or grain
In knit fabric (left), one continuous yarn is looped repeatedly to create what looks
like tiny rows of braids. In woven fabric (right), multiple yarns cross each other at
right angles to form the grain, like a basket.

110




 Apply the stretch test
When knit fabric is stretched along its width, it will stretch significantly. Along its
length, it will stretch slightly. If a knit fabric is stretched excessively, a run may form.
Most woven fabrics can't stretch along the lengthwise grain (the length of the fabric),
and there is minimal give along the crosswise grain (the width of the fabric).


111




 Check the wrinkle resistance
When you ball up a knit in your hand, it will crush easily.
When you release it, the fabric will spring back into shape with
few, if any, wrinkles. When you wad up a woven fabric, it
usually wrinkles easily.
 Inspect the edges
A knit is either sold as a tube or flat. On flat knits, factories
apply round blobs of starch or glue along the lengthwise edges
to prevent them from curling. Along the width, or cut edge, the
fabric doesn't fray. The lengthwise edges of a woven fabric,
called the selvages, are strong and don't move. The cut edge
across the width of the fabric frays.


112

What is the difference between a pique polo, a
Jersey Knit Polo and a golf polo shirt?



 The pique is a type of cotton weave, so is the jersey
knit. The pique is a bit heavier and rougher. The
jersey is thinner and smoother knit. The term golf
polo can apply to both.


113

Jersey


 Jersey
is
a
knit
fabric
used
predominantly
for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is
now made of wool, cotton, and synthetic fibres.
Since medieval times Jersey, Channel Islands, where the
material was first produced, had been an important exporter of
knitted goods and the fabric in wool from Jersey became well
known. The fabric can be a very stretchy single knitting, usually
light-weight, jersey with one flat side and one piled side. When
made with a light weight yarn, this is the fabric most often used
to make T-shirts. Or it can be a double knitted jersey (interlock
jersey), with less stretch, that creates a heavier fabric of two
single jerseys knitted together to leave the two flat sides on the
outsides of the fabric, with the piles in the middle. Jersey is
considered to be an excellent fabric for draped garments, such
as dresses, and women's tops.

114

Jersey

 The following types of jersey can be distinguished:
 Single Jersey fabric - weight: 140 g / m²
 Double Jersey
 Interlock Jersey
 Jacquard Jersey
 Clocqué Jersey


115

SINGLE JERSEY


116

DOUBLE JERSEY


117

INTERLOCK JERSEY

118

JACQUARD JERSEY

119

FABRIC

 A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a
network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread
or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres
of wool, flax, cotton, or other material to produce long
strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting,
knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt).
 The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades
(such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile.
However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized
usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing
fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving,
knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in
production of further goods (garments, etc.). Cloth may be used
synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of
fabric used for a specific purpose (e.g., table cloth).

120

Types of Cotton Fabrics


 Broadcloth: A tightly woven lustrous cotton cloth with fine
embedded crosswise ribs. Resembles poplin. Use: shirts and
blouses, as well as home decorating.
 Canvas: Rugged, woven cloth made with coarse yarn. Also
called duck. Use: cushions, slipcovers, shower curtains, paint
drop-cloths.
 Chambray: Fabric woven with a mixture of coloured and white
yarn. Use: curtains, shirts, dresses.
 Chenille: A fuzzy cotton yarn or fabric that has pile protruding
around it, named for the French word for caterpillar. Use:
Heavyweight as upholstery; lightweight for bedspreads and
robes.

121




 Chintz: Glazed fabric, often printed with floral designs or
stripes. Use: upholstery and curtains for the English
country look and romantic bedrooms.
 Corduroy: Ribbed pile fabric in various weights and
weaves. Use: cushions, curtains, bedspreads, jumpers and
pants.
 Damask: Patterned fabric made on a jacquard loom. Use:
table linens and tea towels.
 Denim: Rugged, durable twill, most popular in indigo
blue, but also white, tan, red, black. Use: jeans, slipcovers,
bedspreads, casual curtains.
 Flannel: Plain-weave soft cloth with napped surface. Use:
winter pajamas, nightgowns and sheets.

122




 Gingham: Yarn-dyed and woven usually in checks. Use:
kitchen curtains and little girls' pinafores, and more
recently sheets and pillowcases.
 Jacquard: Fabric woven on the jacquard loom, which
produces elaborate, figured weaves. Use: decorative
fabrics such as tapestries, brocade and damask.
 Knit: Stretchy fabric made by interlocking thread loops
together. Use: Different weights for T-shirts, underwear,
easy-care dresses and bedsheets.
 Matelassé: Double-woven in different patterns on a
jacquard loom to give a three-dimensional look. Use:
Outer bedding and elegant tablecloths.

123




 Oxford: Fabric made with a modified plain or basket weave.
Use: button-down shirts and more recently, sheets and
pillowcases.
 Percale: A smooth, finely combed woven with a minimum
thread count of 180 threads per square inch. Use: sheets and
clothing.
 Poplin: Fabric with a fine horizontal rib effect on the surface
and high thread count. Use: high-quality shirting.
 Plissé: Fabric treated with a solution that shrinks part of the
threads to create a crinkle effect. Use: blanket covers and
summer pajamas.
 Sateen: A satin-weave cotton with a smooth, lustrous surface.
Striped sateen mixes lustrous with matte-finish stripes. Use:
sheets, tablecloths, curtains.

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

 Seersucker: A lightweight cotton fabric with a woven crinkle achieved
by altering tension in the warp yarns. Use: synonymous with the
classic summer suit; also used in sportswear, curtains, slipcovers.
 Sheers: Batiste, lawn, organdy, dimity, dotted Swiss and voile are all
finely woven cotton sheers. Some are crisp, some are soft. Use:
summer party dresses, curtains and summer see-through slipcovers
for wooden chairs.
 Terry cloth: Fabric with moisture-absorbing loop pile covering the
entire surface on one or both sides. Use: bath towels, robes and
cushion covers.
 Twill: Durable fabric with diagonal lines on its face. Use: pants, shorts,
slipcovers.
 Velvet: A warp-pile fabric with short, densely woven cut pile, giving
the fabric a soft, rich texture. Use: draperies, cushions and clothing.

125

Types of Woolen Fabrics


 Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen overcoating, napped and
pressed down to resemble beaver fur.
 Botany/Merino wool is a fine wool fabric made from worsted
wool yarn.
 Broadcloth is an all woolen or worsted fabric with a velvety
feel.
 Challis, a light weight soft wool fabric in plain weave, has a
printed or woven design or flowers.
 Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is a soft, fine wool that is heavier
than serge.
 Chinchilla cloth is a heavy, spongy woolen overcoat fabric
with a long nap that has been rubbed into a curly, nubby finish.

126



 Donegal was originally a thick and warm homespun or tweed
woven by Irish peasants in Donegal, Ireland. Donegal now
describes the wool tweed that has colorful thick slubs woven into
the fabric.
 Felt fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool or fur
fibers. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with
moisture, heat, and pressure.
 Flannel wool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both
sides.
 Gabardine is a tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This
fabric is excellent for tailoring and wears well.
 Glen checks are usually seen in menswear and originated in
Scotland. It is characterized by a variety of small, even check
designs.
 Harris tweed is a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.

127




 Heather Mixture describes tweeds and homespun‟s that
have colors of heather and sand of the Scottish heather
fields.
 Herringbone wool is woven in a twill that is reversed at
regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.
 Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven
either by hand or machine with a coarse feel.
 Houndstooth check has a four pointed star check in a
broken twill weave.
 Jersey is a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but
can also be found in silk, and man-made fibers.
 Laine is French for “wool”.

128




 Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy
fleeced nap on one side.
 Linsey-woolsey is a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey,
England, of wool combined with flax or cotton.
 Loden fabric is a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool
used in outerwear that has a characteristic green color.
 Mackinaw fabric is a heavy double fabric in striking
colored patterns.
 Melton, a heavy, thick, short napped woven fabric that
has been fulled.
 Merino wool is soft and luxurious, resembling cashmere.
This term is also used to describe the finest wools.

129



 Oatmeal Cloth is a durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.
 Panama Cloth, a plain woven worsted wool, sometimes
resembling the texture of Panama hat.
 Petersham, a very thick, waterproof woolen coating, usually
dark blue, is used for men‟s trousers or heavy coats.
 Pilot Cloth is a coarse, heavy, stout twilled woolen that is
heavily napped and navy blue. Used by seamen.
 Poodle Cloth is made with a boucle yarn and resembles the
Poodle dog.
 Rabbit Hair is used in woven wool‟s as a substitute for vicuna
to give a soft effect in the fabric.

130



 Sharkskin is woven with warp and filling
yarns of alternating white with black, brown or blue.
 Tartan is a twilled plaid design, originally Scottish.
 Tweed is a rough textured wool, originally
homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy
with a mottled color.


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Fabric training for retail staff extended version

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