The document provides a summary of Navneet Kr. Yadav and Vinay Prajapati's internship report from their internship at Bharat Vijay Mills (BVM) in Kalol, India. It acknowledges those who supported and guided them during their internship. It then provides an overview of BVM, including details about the company's history, products, infrastructure, processes from fiber to fabric, and organizational hierarchy. The document describes the various departments within BVM such as spinning, weaving, dyeing and processing.

1. 2011
BVM Internship Report
Navneet Kr. Yadav, Vinay Prajapati
M.F.TECH, SEM-II, NIFT, Gandhinagar

2. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
A project report usually falls short of its expectations until and
unless guided by the right people at the right time. We would
thus like to express our deep sense of gratitude to our h onorable
mentor Prof. Pranav Vora for his constant aid and support
throughout the span of this project. They were always by our
side and accomplished us in this project on TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
at BHARAT VIJAY MILLS(BVM),KALOL .
We deeply acknowledge the HRD and executive HRD of Bharat
Vijay Mills, Mr.V.K.Chaturvedi and Mr. Chintan Dholakia
without whom our internship wo uld have been a distant dream.
We would also like to thank the general managers and other
staffs and workers of all the departments at Bharat Vijay Mills
for their helping hand in explain ing us the basic processes and
machinery and for providing us with complete information about
their respective departments.
Last, but not the least, we would like to thank our other faculty
members for their constant support in guiding us towards the
completion of this project.
Navneet Yadav
Vinay Prajapati

3. CONTENTS
i. Objective
ii. Company profile
iii. Introduction – fiber to fabric
iv. Spinning department
v. Yarn dyeing
vi. Weaving department
vii. Corduroy
viii. Grey folding
ix. Dyeing and processing
x. Testing
xi. Finishing
xii. Finish folding
xiii. Conclusion
xiv. Bibliography

4. OBJECTIVE
 To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric(both
woven and knitted) production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric,
textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for
commercial purposes.
 To learn the all the above processes and their applications practically
by applying theoretical concepts.
 To have an overview of the organizational structure of the company
and mill.
 To know about the basic functioning of a textile mill.
 To understand the management of the company and the role of each
subsystem (Dept.) and its relationship with other Subsystems for the
smooth running of Business.

5. COMPANY PROFILE
Bharat Vijay Mills – the textile division of Sintex Industries Ltd., is into
converting fibre to finished packaged fabrics. It was established in the
year 1931. Later, in year 1956, the present management took over.
Their president is Mr. Dinesh Patel. They are for more than seven
decades in textiles as a leading manufacturer of fashion fabrics
consisting of varied product mix in Cottons and Blends. Their plant is at
kalol about 30 km from Ahmedabad city about 500 km in north of
Mumbai, India.
Their product range includes yarn dyed shirting, jacquard & Dobby
Structures, corduroys, bottom weights, solid dyed, Poplins & Dobby
Shirting with varieties of weaves, varieties of jacquard, dobby & leno
structured furnishing fabrics, organic cotton certified by union control,
linen, cotton with linen, silk, lycra, nylon, tinsel and viscose and surface
coating with pigment colors.
To be strict on the quality part, they practice ongoing quality checks at
every level starting from input of raw materials to the final product. After
the final product is ready, a 100 % inspection is conducted including
shade sorting and grading etc. And only after successful inspection, the
final product is shipped to the client. They also have organized state of the art
laboratories as well as pilot plants for R&D activities.
Their team of professional has been built by hiring the best in the industry and to
maintain healthy work culture, they empower them with mutual trust and the growth
opportunities. In house, they train their employees on behaviour, knowledge, culture,
and skills etc. Totally, 2000 employees including the most professional candidates and
managers, together make Bharat Vijay Mills a preferred partner to their clients for longer
business relationships.

6. A combination of their state of the art plant, modern technology, reliable QA systems,
qualified managers, and smart workforce make it together to offer world class quality of
products and services to their clients and customers. They are totally a customer driven
organization. Their export markets are worldwide as they are regular suppliers to
Europe, USA, Middle East, India and Neighbouring Countries.
Infrastructure:
 Equipped with all level state of the art machinery.
 Fully automatic.
 Micro process controlled.
 Overall capacity - 22 million meters.
 Can deliver 65" finished width fabrics.
 Plant specifically designed for varied product mix (Fabric weights - 80 gsm to 550
gsm)‫‏‬
.
 Can handle 100% cotton as well as blends.
 Combination of rapier & airjet looms with dobbies and jacquards.
 Continuous and computer controlled processes for product consistency.
 Equipped to provide specialised mechanical & chemical finishes.
 Testing & QC lab equipped to satisfy most discerning customers.
 On line quality checking system.
 Networking facilities within the complex.
 Most modern & state of the art plant.
Their best practices include - Eco friendly products, economizing on water, energy &
salt utilisation, meeting the standards as lay down by discerning customers, higher
productivity.

7. Vision:
To achieve global presence in textile business through continuous product and technical
innovation, customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness, quality and services.
Their Additional services include a Design Studio -
 That offers four seasonal collections every year.
 CAD & Desk Loom Support based on Customers’ theme.
 Short Length Fabric Development on Auto Looms.
 Dedicated setup for Sampling Yardage from 10 to 100 meters.
 Continuous product concept developments.
Financial Details:
No of Employees – 2000
Turnover in Crs – 100-250 Crs
Sector- Private Sector
Buyer:
Arrow, Van Heusen, Armani, Hugo Boss, Diesel, Burberry, DKNY, S.Oliver, Zara,
Mexx, Meggimo Dotti, Banana Republic.
Website : www.sintex-india.com

8. Hierarchy in Organization
Managing Director
President
Senior General Manager
General Manager
Deputyt General Manager
Senior Manager
Manager
Deputy Managers
Senior Executive
Executive

9. Manageing Director
Administration And
Procurement Marketing
Group C.F.O Technical President Operational
President President
President
Production,
HR, IR, Security,
Finance, Accounts, Stores, Purchase, Domestic and Warehouse(Raw
Powerplant,
Secretrial Function Export, Import Export material + Finished
Administration
product)

10. PROCESS FLOW CHART
FIBER TO FABRIC
Fibers undergo the following processes to finally get converted into a finished fabric
(ready for garment construction).

11. SPINNING DEPARTMENT
Process Flowchart: Carded Process Flowchart: Combed
Stack mixing
Bale opening
Pre opening
Stack mixing
Blow room
Blow room Card
Pre comb
Card
Lap forming
Draw Frame Comber
Post comber
Speed Frame
Speed Frame
Ring Frame Winding Ring Frame Winding
Warping Winding
Winding
Parallel winding Parallel Winding
T.F.O T.F.O

12. PROCESSES
Bale opening:
The bale of cotton brought into the spinning department is first opened for further
processes in blow room. It was done manually here.
Stack Mixing:
The opened bales are mixed.
Blow room:
Basic operations in the blowroom are:
 Opening
 Cleaning
 Mixing or blending
 Microdust removal
 Uniform feed to the carding machine
 Recycling the waste
Blow room installations consist of a sequence of different machines to carry out the
above said operations. Moreover Since the tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and
smaller, the required intensities of processing necessitates different machine
configuration.
Opening in blowroom means opening of cotton into small flocks. Technological
operation of opening means the volume of the flock is increased while the number of
fibres remains constant. i.e. the specific density of the material is reduced.
 The larger the dirt particle , the better they can be removed.
 Since almost every blowroom machine can shatter particles, as far as possible a
lot of impurities should be eliminated at the start of the process. Opening should
be followed immediately by cleaning, if possible in the same machine.

13.  The higher the degree of opening, the higher the degree of cleaning. A very high
cleaning effect is almost always purchased at the cost of a high fibre loss.
Higher roller speeds give a better cleaning effect but also more stress on the
fibre.
MACHINE AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:
Mixer opener GBR trutzschler
No. of machines: 2
Salient Features:
 Machine working width is 1600 mm.
 Infinitely variable production upto 800 kg/hr without opening and cleaning roller and
upto 600 kg/hr with opening and cleaning roller.
 Additional bypass roller aid for a smooth flow of material when the machine is
bypassed.
 In-built panel with PLC and Inverter helps to monitor the machine parameters.
 Dynamic change of Lattice and feed roller speeds possible.
 Fault announciation through display.

14.  Guide plates for optimum trash removal.
 Extremely good and consistent opening of material.
 Homogenous blending of the material prior to opening.
All types of cottons, man-made fibres and their blends can be processed with or without
cleaning point.
Cleaning: The aim is separation of nonfibrous waste from fibrous blend. The way of
separation depends on this waste properties. For metal particles are used magnets.
Non-fibrous shape particle fall through working parts of machines (whereas fibers are
catched) or they are separated due to their different inertia. Example of separatio due to
different inertia is cyclone separator. The circulating mass of air, fibers and particles is
moved up so heavy particles can´t follow the air stream and fall down. Fine particles
should be filtered. The cleaning process is substituted in machines for fibers opening. It
is possible to use special cleaning machines especially when the input fibrous material
is dirty.
MACHINE AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
 B 12 Uniclean Pre-Cleaner - Efficient And
Reliable Pre-Cleaning
 No. of machines - 2
This pre-cleaner cleans the microtufts in the first
cleaning stage. This enables machine output of up to
1400 kg/h to be achieved. Cleaning is performed without nipping and is therefore very
gentle to the fibers and at the same time efficient. VarioSet enables waste volume and
waste composition to be adjusted optimally at the push of a button. This ensures a high
level of raw material utilization.
Salient features:
 This is designed for output of up to 1400 kg/h (carded sliver).

15.  Fiber yield with simultaneous efficient cleaning is up to 2% higher than on conventional
units.
 Energy-saving due to low air consumption.
 Pre-cleaning without nipping and the use of mote knives results in fiber-preserving
cleaning.
 The large dedusting surface ensures intensive dedusting even at high production
performance.
 Rapid assessment of high cleaning performance and low losses of good fibers by visual
waste checks.
Mixing or blending: The consistency in yarn quality depends heavily on the
homogeneity of the material composition. The objective of mixing is to optimize the
homogeneity of the material mixture by combining several bales.
Further objectives of mixing are:
 Decrease of irregularities in bales of different origin.
 Economic processing.
 Recycling of comber waste.
 Effect on the properties of final product.
 Reduction of raw material costs.
 Usualy are fibers stocked in one direction and remove in perpendicular direction.
MACHINE USED AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS

16.  No. of machines – 1
 Trutzschlier mixing bale.
Perfect and Homogeneous blend is achieved, simultaneous mixing by doublings' over
an extended period of time is achieved.
The cotton bales are opened and premixed by bale opener.
This blend is blown by the material transport fan and conveyed into the feed duct above
the hopper.
The charging of the multimixer starts with the first hopper at the end of the feed duct.
It is filled only to just below the photo cell situated in the adjacent hopper, then the
closing flap of the second hopper is opened by push button operation.
Second hopper is charged to a rather higher than the first. The charging level of the
hopper rises uniformly up to the last hopper which is fully charged, when the last hopper
is full the Closing flap shuts automatically and charging restarts with first hopper, as
soon as the level second hopper has dropped below the Photo Electric cell. Whilst the
last hopper is being charged, material transport is switched on and material in the
hoppers starts to drop.
When the charging level rises, more and more of the holes in the perforated plate of the
upper part of hopper are blocked with material. This increases the pressure the
conveyor air. Once a pre-selected pressure is reached, which corresponds to a
particular charging level, an electronic switch closes the flap of this hopper and opens
up the flap of the next hopper."
The base of each hopper is closed by a pair of deliver roller which transfers the material
gradually and uniformly to an opening roller. The delivery rollers of the entire hopper are
two variable speed motor with control range up to 1 : 6 in this way it is possible to adjust
the output of multimixer to the feed requirement of the subsequent machine.

17. Opening roller gently loosen the material into tufts and deliver them into the blending
channel from which they are sucked by the subsequent condenser.
Microdust Removal: Cotton contains very little dust before ginning. Dust is therefore
caused by working of the material on the machine. New dust is being created through
shattering of impurities and smashing and rubbing of fibres. However removal of dust is
not simple. Dust particles are very light and therefore float with the cotton in the
transport stream. Furthermore the particles adhere quite strongly to the fibres. If they
are to be eliminated they are to be rubbed off. The main elimination points for adhering
dust therefore, are those points in the process at which high fibre/metal friction or high
fibre/fibre friction is produced.
Removal of finest particles of contaminants and fibre fragments can be accomplished by
releasing the dust into the air, like by turning the material over, and then removing the
dust-contaminated air. Release of dust into the air occurs whereever the raw material is
rolled, beaten or thrown about. Accordingly the air at such positions is sucked away.
Perforated drums, stationary perforated drums, stationary combs etc. are some
instruments used to remove dust.
CARDING
"Card is the heart of the spinning mill" and "Well carded is half spun" are two proverbs
of the experts. These proverbs inform the immense significance of carding in the
spinning process. High production in carding to economise the process leads to
reduction in yarn quality. Higher the production, the more sensitive becomes the carding
operation and the greater danger of a negative influence on quality. The technological
changes that has taken place in the process of carding is remarkable. Latest machines
achieve the production rate of 60 - 100 kgs / hr, which used to be 5 - 10 kgs / hr, upto
1970.

18. The Purpose of Carding:
 To open the flocks into individual fibres
 cleaning or elimination of impurities
 reduction of neps
 elimination of dust
 elimination of short fibres
 fibre blending
 fibre orientation or alignment
 sliver formation
CARDING AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
Lap feeding was followed for carding.
Carding capacity: 1.8 tonnes/day
Machines :
Trutzschler DK -740 cards : 8
Trutzschler DK -780 cards : 8
Latest TRUTZSCHLER cards work with three licker-ins compared to one liker-in. The
first one is constructed as needle roll. This results in very gentle opening and an
extremely long clothing life for this roll. The other two rollers are with finer clothing and
higher speeds, which results in feeding more %of individual fibres and smallest tufts
compared to single lickerin, to the main cylinder. This allows the maing cylinder to go
high in speeds and reduce the load on cylinder and flat tops. There by higher
productivity is achieved with good quality. But the performance may vary for different
materials and different waste levels between the taker-in and main cylinder , the
clothings are in the doffing disposition. It exerts an influence on the sliver quality and
also on the improvement in fibres longitudinal orientation that occurs here. The effect
depends on the draft between main cylinder and taker-in. The draft between main
cylinder and taker-in should be slightly more than 2.0.

19. The opening effect is directly proportional to the number of wire points per fibre. At the
Taker-in perhaps 0.3 points/ fibre and at the main cylinder 10-15 points /fibre.If a given
quality of yarn is required, a corresponding degree of opening at the card is needed. To
increase production in carding, the number of points per unit time must also be
increased. This can be achieved by:
 more points per unit area(finer clothing)
 higher roller and cylinder speeds
 more carding surface or carding position
Speeds and wire population has reached the maximum, further increase will result in
design and technological problems. Hence the best way is to add carding surface
(stationary flats). Carding plates can be applied at
 under the liker-in
 between the licker-in and flats
 between flats and doffer
Taker-in does not deliver 100% individual fibres to main cylinder. It delivers around 70%
as small flocks to main cylinder. If carding segments are not used, the load on cylinder
and flats will be very high and carding action also suffers. If carding segemets are used,
they ensure further opening, thinning out and primarily, spreading out and improved
distribution of the flocks over the total surface area. Carding segments bring the
following advantages:
 improved dirt and dust elimination
 improved disentanglement of neps
 possibility of speed increase (production increase)
 preservation of the clothing
 possibility of using finer clothings on the flats and cylinder
 better yarn quality
 less damage to the clothing
 cleaner clothing

20. COMBING
Lapping is a preparatory process for combing. The main objective is to flatten the slivers
and obtain a dense lap of fibres to maintain fineness of the combed slivers.
Combing is a method for preparing
fiber for spinning by use of combs. It
is a technique that has been used in
the preparation of textiles for
centuries. Essentially, combing is a
process that helps to smooth and
prepare fibers for use in spinning.
Combing also helps to separate short
fibers from longer ones, which also
helps to make the process of
spinning much easier.
While the combs used in this process
of fiber preparation do function with a combing action, the actual devices have no more
than a passing resemblance to the combs used on hair. For textile purposes, the fiber
combs are equipped with long metal teeth. Two combs are utilized in tandem, with one
comb holding the strand of fiber in place while the other comb moves across the surface
of the fiber.
Combing accomplishes two tasks at once. As the comb moves through the fiber, it
slowly separates the shorter fibers from the longer ones. Short fibers do not work well in
a spinning operation, but may be set aside and processed using a technique known as
carding. The longer fibers are arranged into flat bundles, with all the fibers facing the
same direction. These bundles can then be processed through spinning, creating yarn
and thread that can then be used to weave cloth.
Combing is normally used to prepare a worsted yarn that is made of natural fibers, such
as cotton. In fact, combing cotton is a common process when the fiber is intended for

21. use in various forms of apparel. The combed cotton will feel smoother to the touch, and
also produce a garment that will wear longer than a garment made with uncombed
cotton.
Not all natural fiber yarns are made by combing, however. Woolen yarn is one example.
This type of yarn is made by carding the wool only; the additional step of combing is not
performed. Carding straightens some of the fibers, but not to the degree that combing
does. The result is a lighter, stretchier yarn with more air.
In general, carding is used on shorter fibers, while longer fibers are combed. Many
textile companies will employ both combing and carding in the preparation of fibers for
use in different types of products, such as shirting fabric, towels, sheeting, and other
essential household items.
SEQUENCE OF OPERATION IN A COMBER
 Feeding, lap is fed by feed roller.
 Fed lap gripped by the nipper
 Gripped lap is combed by circular comb
 Detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward while the detaching
roller delivers the material, top comb comes into action to further clean the lap.
 While going back,nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap.
 The rawmaterial delivered by the carding machine can not be fed directly to the
comber.
 Lap preparation is a must.
COMBING AT BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
Combing capacity : 5 tonnes/day
Machines:
High speed combers LK -250 : 6

22. Lap former E2/4A : 2
High speed combers LK – 54 : 1
High speed combers LK – 64 : 2
High speed combers LK – 10 : 1
Draw Frame
8 slivers are combined to form one sliver to increase the uniformity and strength of
sliver. Drawing is the process of combining several carded slivers into a single sliver. It
eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were put
individually.
Blending of fibres can be done by combining slivers of different fibres.
Within the card sliver is a substantial proportion of fibres with hooked ends. These
hooks are formed as the fibres are moved along by the carding machinery. Their
presence reduces the effective length of the fibre, and if these hooks are not removed
the yarn produced will be weaker. Drawing out removes these hooks.
TASKS OF DRAWFRAME
 Through doubling the slivers are made even
 doubling results in homogenization(blending)
 through draft fibres get parallelised
 hooks created in the card are straightened
 through the suction ,intensive dust removal is achieved
Defects arising during drawing stages:
 Usable fibres in suction waste.
 Single sliver.
 Cuts in the sliver.

23.  Improper coiling.
 Improper stock filling.
 Improper functioning of autolevellers.
Drawing at Bharat Vijay Mills:
No. of Machines :
HS draw frame DO/6 model – 2
HS draw frame Padametex 720 – 4
RSB 1 Draw frame – 2
RSB-D-30 Draw frame - 2
SPEED FRAME
120 sliver cans in one speed frame. Attenuation- drafting the sliver into roving:
 twisting the drafted strand
 winding the twisted roving on a bobbin
The slivers are to be thinned out to the level required for the yarn to be spun. This
process of attenuating the slivers is done in several steps on the Speed Frames. While
converting slivers into roving, a small amount of twist is also inserted so that the roving
could with-stand the winding and the unwinding tensions. The roving is would on
suitable bobbins. Under conventional system of fly frames process, the machine use in
this department are slubbing frame, intermediate frames and roving frames. Except as
regard the numbers of spindles speed and dimensions of bobbins, the object structure
and machine of all these frames are practically the same. The attention of the sliver is
done gradually at each of these fly frames, depending upon the draft capacity of the
machines. The drafting system employed determines the quality of the roving produced

24. at the fly frames. All the advantage in technology the slubbing and roving process is
climinated and the material in processed through only the passage of fly frames, viz. the
canfed incer frames.
 Fibre to fibre cohesion is less for combed slivers. Rollers in the creel can easily
create false drafts. Care must be taken to ensure that the slivers are passed to the
drafting arrangement without disturbance. Therefore, a perfect drive to the creel
rollers is very important.
 The drafting arrangement drafts the material with a draft between 5 and 15.The
delivered strand is too thin to hold itself together at the exit of the front bottom roller.
 Bobbin and flyer are driven separately, so that winding of the twisted strand is
carried out by running the bobbin at a higher peripheral speed than the flyer.
 The bobbin rail is moving up and down continuously, so that the coils must be
wound closely and parallel to one another to ensure that as much as material is
wound on the bobbin.
 Since the diameter of the packages increases with each layer, the length of the
roving per coil also will increase. Therefore the speed of movement of bobbin rail
must be reduced by a small amount after each completed layer
 Length delivered by the front roller is always constant.
The following parameters are very important in SPEED FRAME. They are
 Feed hank  Twist in the roving
 Delivery hank  Bobbin content
 Roving tension  flyer speed
 break draft  Creel and creel draft
 Drafting system  Drawframe sliverand can
 Bottom roller setting  Bobbin height
 Top roller setting  Breakage rate
 condensers and spacers  Piecings

25. At Bharat Vijay Mills
Machines:
Speed frame TS 15 Model – 3
Speed frame LF 1400 Model -4
Speed frame LF 1400 A Model - 3
RING FRAME:
The last stage in the manufacture
of yarn is spinning. In order to
convert the roving into the
required counts main operation
which are simultaneously carried
out off the ring frame are twisting
and winding.
The roving received from the fly
frame department is still much
thicker than the thickness final
yarn required. Therefore the first
process on the ring frame is
drafting. The other operation
which are done in the ring frames are twisting and winding. The amount of twist
inserted here is larger than at any other previous stage on order to strengthen for
the end use required. The twisted yarn in wound on bobbins.

26. Hence this process is carried out :
 To draft the roving until the required fineness is achieved
 To impart strength to the fiber, by inserting twist
 To wind up the twisted strand (yarn) in a form suitable for storage, transportation
and further processing.
Ring frame at Bharat Vijay Mills:
Machines:
Ring Frame DJ50N Model - 7
WINDING
Since bobbins from ring frames are
not suitable for further processing,
hence winding of yarns on cones is
done.
 First, yarns from bobbins are
wound onto cones
 Secondly, if the yarns are to
be dyed, then yarns from
cones are transferred to soft
package.
 After dyeing, yarns are wound
onto cones again for proper
unwind of yarns during warping.
Machines :
Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 RM - 22

27. MACHINES IN SPINNING DEPARTMENT
Section No. of machines
Blow room 9
Carding 16
Combing 14
Drawing 10
Speed Frame 10
Ring Frame 8
Winding 22
Others 3

28. YARN DYEING
Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of yarns before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics.
Yarns may be dyed in different forms:
1) Skeins
2) Packages
3) Beams
1) Skein dyeing – It consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks of yarns into
dye vats that are specially designed for this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns such as
hand knitted yarns are dyed using this method. It is the most costly yarn dyeing
method.
2) Package dyeing – In package dyeing, about a pound of yarn is wound on a
small perforated spool or tube called package. It is widely used for most type of
yarns found in knitted and woven fabrics.
3) Beam dyeing – It is simply a much larger
version of package dyeing. An entire warp is
wound onto a perforated cylinder, which is
then placed in a beam dyeing machine where
flow of the dye bath is alternated as in
package dyeing.
Cotton yarns are mostly dyed at package form, and
acrylic or wool yarn are dyed at hank form.
At Bharat Vijay mills, 100% cotton yarns were
manufactured. Hence, package dyeing was the form
of yarn dyeing used at BVM. Two types of dyes –
vat & reactive dyes were used.

29. Reactive dye
1. Pretreatment
2. Peroxide bleaching
3. Acid treatment
Vat dye
1) Pretreatment
2) Dyeing
3) Oxidizing
4) After treatment
5) softening
The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form is given
below:
Firstly the raw yarn is winded on spring tube to achieve package suitable for dye
penetration. Then, these softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle
one on other. Then, the packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable
density of pkg. then, the carrier is loaded on dyeing machine and yarn is dyed. after
dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier in to a trolley. Then, all the
packages are hydro extracted using a
HYDRO EXTRACTOR to remove
maximum amount of water. Then, all the
packages are dried using PRESSURE
DRYER OR RF DRYER(RADIO
FREQUENCY DRYER) to achieve the
final dyed package. At last the dyed yarn
packages are packed and delivered.
HYDRO EXTRACTOR

30. After dyeing, the packages are sent to hydro extractor which extracts maximum amount
of water from the package. Then the packages are sent to pressure or RF dryer for
further drying.
RF DRYER(RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER)
More than 800 "RF" (Radio Frequency) model
dryers, installed throughout the world since 1981,
are presently in operation for the drying, to a
conditioned weight, o f yarns in packages and
cakes, worsted fibres (tops) in bobbin and bump
form.
Most combinations of natural, artificial and
synthetic fibres, filament fibres or worsted and
spun, pure or blended, in every count and form
can be dried perfectly, down to the desired
residual moisture level, with outstanding
efficiency and quality results.
In the "RFA" (Radio Frequency Assisted) series dryers, the RF treatment, precisely
controlled in the different phases of the drying process thanks to a special design of the
RF application electrodes, is combined with a
conventional warm air circulation system.
PRESSURE DRYER
Dyed yarns are fed into this machine for drying
under high pressure and temperature.The
today's pressure dryer is equipped with an
intelligent control unit, high performance heat
exchanger, separator and a special blower.

31. Options:
 Satellite kier
 Conditioning device for optimum distribution of remaining moisture
 Continuous blower operation between batch changes for energy savings
Machines at Bharat Vijay Mills
Each package is of 700 gm.
Weighing capacity of machine(in kg) No. of machines
27 2
46 6
60 4
100 1
109 4
110 3
200 1
400 2
600 2
850 1
RF Dryer: 2 m/c
Pressure Dryer: 1m/c
Hydro Extractor: 2 m/c
WEAVING DEPARTMENT

32. 1) WINDING
The process of transferring yarn from ring bobbins, hanks, cones etc onto a suitable
package is called Winding.
Purpose of Winding:
1. To transfer yarn from one package to another package, this can be conveniently used
for the weaving purposes.
2. To remove yarn faults like hairiness, neps, slubs, and foreign matters.
3. To produce long length of yarn by serially joining one yarn package with another.
4. To make bigger package.
5. To make soft package for package dyeing.
6. To permit easy unwinding during warping.
7. To avoid of excess looseness and tightness.
2) WARPING
The primary objective of the warping process is to provide a continuous length of yarn
from individual wound yarn packages, in sheet form to a beam for the succeeding
process. There are several types of warping techniques, including: ball, direct, draw,
indirect also called sectional and sample warping.
When utilizing any technique in the warping process it is important to minimize end
breaks, keep a constant and uniform tension on the yarns, keep a constant yarn speed,
and insure quick response braking of the warper. These factors play a large role in the
quality of the warp yarns, which in turn influences the runability of that warp yarn in the
succeeding process.

33. Most modern warpers are equipped
with electronic stop motions which
stop the warper as soon as a broken
end is detected. It is crucial that the
braking system is fast enough to stop
the warper before the end reaches
the beam. The end is much harder to
find and correct once it has been
wound onto the beam. Today's
braking systems allow the beams to
stop before one full revolution has
occurred on the warp beam, in a
direct system, or on the pattern drum
in an indirect system.
In the process of weaving, for warp yarns, we need to produce pre bean which is also
called warpers beam. To produce warpers beam we need warping machine with a creel
capacity about 400-700 cone capacity. To produce a weavers beam we need 6 to 16
warpers beam. Number of cones to be use in the creel depends on production planning.
Warping at Bharat Vijay Mills:
Two types of Warping machines were
used in the mill:
 Direct Warping
 Sectional Warping
Direct Warping Machine: 2
TECH MECH T- 1000

34. TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
WORKING WIDTH : 54 to 84
BEAM FLANGE DIA : 28” to 36”
MAX WARPING SPEED : 600 Mtrs. / Min
DRIVE : AC Variable speed frequency control
BRAKING DEVICE : Pneumatic disc brakes for drum
BEAM LOADING & : By pneumatically operated levers.
UNLOADING
BEAM PRESSING : Pneumatic pressing on both sides.
DRUM : steel drum
GUIDE ROLL : Balanced Hard Chrome plated
Sectional Warping Machine: 6
SERVOTECH -130
FEATURES
 Fixed cone height.
 Steel drum dynamically balanced.
 Variable frequency AC Drive.
 Hydraulic disc brakes on both sides.
 Stopping of drum at exact position at
end of section.
 Auto braking in case of Power failure.
 Auto stop at point of lease cord.
 Two separate motors for warping and
beaming.
Various parts of the machine are:

35.  DISPLAY UNIT
 DISC BRAKE
 BEAM PRESSING DEVICE
 WARPING TABLE
 MOTORIZED LEASING DEVICE
 INSPECTION SOFTWARE
 PRINTER
3) SIZING
Sizing is a complementary operation which
is carried out on warps formed by spun
yarns with insufficient tenacity or by
continuous filament yarns with zero twist. In
general, when sizing is necessary, the yarn
is beam warped, therefore all beams
corresponding to the beams are fed, as
soon as warping is completed, to the sizing
machine where they are assembled.
Sizing consists of impregnating the yarn
with particular substances which form on
the yarn surface a film with the aim of
improving yarn smoothness and tenacity
during the subsequent weaving stage. Due
to its improved tenacity and elasticity, the
yarn can stand without problems the
tensions and the rubbing caused by
weaving.
The sizing methods change depending on
the type of weaving machine used, on the

36. yarn type and count, on the technician’s experience and skill, but above all on the kind
of material in progress. The only common denominator of the various sizing materials is
that they have to be easily removable after weaving in order to allow carrying out
without problems the selected finishing cycle. The substances used as sizing material
are potato flour, starches, glues, fats but also talc and kaolin, when a particularly thick
size is requested.
In Bharat Vijay Mills , there were total six warp sizing of three different brand:
 Ambica warp sizing machine - 1
 Sucker Muller sizing machine - 3
 Jupiter sizing machine - 2
All the warp sheets from different beams are converted into 1 single sheet. Size is made
in a drum and is transported through pipes and applied on the beam. It is then dried by
hot rollers which are filled with steam.
4) DRAWING –IN
The term drawing-in and warp tying refers to the
operations involved in preparing the weaver's beam
for the purpose of weaving fabrics on the loom. The
drawing-in process primarily consists of drawing
ends from the weaver's beam through heald eyes
of different harnesses and then through the dents
of a reed in the order that is determined by the
design of the fabric.
If a beam is to be worked with warp stop motion
on the loom, especially when using closed drop-
pins, the ends have to be drawn through these pins
before drawing them through the heald eyes and
reed dents.

37. Conventionally drawing-in is carried out manually by two persons-one, the reacher for
selecting and presenting the ends from the beam, and the other, the drawer for pulling
ends through the drop-pins, heald eyes and reed dents.
The main requirements of carrying out this process properly and efficiently are:
1. The operator should be aware of the principles of drawing-in and be trained to do the
job speedily because any mistakes or delays in carrying out the process would prove to
be costly.
2. The healds and reeds should be in good condition and of suitable specifications for
ensuring that these are not the cause of warp breaks on the loom and of defects in the
fabric.
3. The drawing of the beam should be done properly to avoid cross ends on the beam.
4. Suitable precautions should be taken to reduce the incidence of extra-ends and to
compensate for the missing ends during the weaving of the loom.
Only two machines were used in Bharat Vijay Mills for drawing-in process. There were
two models of STAUBIL:
 DELTA- 100: The DELTA 100 is specially designed for filament weavers and
draws in the warp threads into healds and reed only.
 DELTA-110: The DELTA 110 drawing-in installations are designed for weaving
mills with medium drawing-in requirements. Drawing in at speeds of up to 140
per minute takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or
optionally with 2 warp sheets into healds, drop wires and reed. An optional
module is available for drawing in coarse yarns.
The main characteristics are:
Feature DELTA 100 DELTA 110
Drawing-in speed (ends/min) 100/140* 100/140*
Number of warps in 8h (ca.) up to 5 (6*) up to 5 (6*)

38. Warp widths (m) 2.3 2.3 / 4.0 / 6.0
Number of warp beams 1 1
Number of thread layers 1 (2*) 1 (2*)
Reed density (teeth/dm) 350 (500*) 350 (500*)
Max. no. of frames (J/C-healds) 20 20
Max. no. of frames (O-healds) 16 16
Max. rows of dropwires – 6 (8*)
Number of dropwire paths – 1
Drawing-in element Hook Hook
Yarn count range (tex) 3-250 3-250
5) Weaving Process
Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by crossing
two sets of threads over and under each other. Weavers use threads spun from natural
fibers like cotton, silk, and wool and synthetic fibers such as nylon and Orlon. But thin,
narrow strips of almost any flexible material can be woven. People learned to weave
thousands of years ago using natural grasses, leafstalks, palm leaves, and thin strips of
wood.
Today weaving ranks as a major industry in many countries. Weaving is often
completed on high speed looms. But weaving is not limited to cloth and textile products.
Weaving plays an important part in the manufacture of screens, metal fences, and
rubber tire cord. Craftworkers also use varied fibers to weave baskets and hats.
Woven fabrics are classified as to weave or structure according to the manner in which
warp and weft cross each other. The three fundamental weaves, of which others are
variations:
 Plain
 Twill
 Satin

39. PLAIN WEAVE:
Each weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes
alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some examples of plain weave fabrics are
crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin.
TWILL WEAVE:
Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design. The design is
enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is
characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the
surface. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of
comparable fiber and yarn size. Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or
more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left
SATIN WEAVE:
Floats one warp yarn over four or
more weft yarns, then tied down
with one thread, resulting in a
smooth face
Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-
weave fabrics out of fabrics such as
cotton & Charmeuse.
LOOMS
A loom is a mechanism or tool used
for weaving yarn and thread into
textiles. Looms vary in a wide
assortment of sizes. They come in
huge free standing hand looms, tiny hand-held frames, to vast automatic mechanical
tools. A loom can as well pertain to an electric line construction like that of a wiring

40. loom. The main task of looms is to clutch the twist threads under pressure to enable the
progress of interweaving of the woof strands. The loom's system and exact form can
differ to some extent; however it still performs the basic application.
The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses, shuttle,
reed and takeup roll. In the loom, yarn processing includes:
 shedding
 picking
 battening
 taking-up operations.
Shedding. Shedding is the raising of the warp yarns to form a shed through which the
filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. The shed is the vertical space
between the raised and unraised warp yarns. On the modern loom, simple and intricate
shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also
known as a harness.
Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a Jacquard Head.
Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the
shed is created. The filling yarn in inserted through the shed by a small carrier device
called a shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through
the shed. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is
known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an
edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling.
Battening. As the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, it also
passes through openings in another frame called a reed. With each picking operation,
the reed presses or battens each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has
already been formed.

41. Taking up: With each weaving operation, the newly constructed fabric must be wound
on a cloth beam. This process is called taking up. At the same time, the warp yarns
must be let off or released from the warp beams.
TYPES OF LOOMS:
There are two types of looms
depending upon the weft insertion:
 SHUTTLE
 SHUTTLE-LESS
 Air jet
 Water jet
 Rapier
 Projectile
In Bharat Vijay Mills rapier and air jet were used.
Rapier Looms:
The rapier weaving machines are the most flexible machines on the market. Their
application range covers a wide variety of fabric styles. Their present weaving speed of
about 600-700 strokes/min is the result of the use of a state-of-the-art construction
technique, characterized by the use of gear sets without plays and by minimum
vibrations of the reed, the slay and the heald frames.
The weft, which is under constant proper control, remains connected to the cloth as a
consequence of the previous insertion. At the right moment the selection gear acts in a
way, that the end of the weft is caught by the bearing rapier 1 mounted on a flexible
tape or on a rod and at the same time is cut by shears on the selvedge side. The weft,
after adequate braking, is transported to the center of the shed, where the bearing
rapier meets the drawing rapier 2, which takes over the weft thread and, while holding it

42. by its end, transports it back to the opposite side, where the rapier leaves it free, thus
completing the insertion.
The weft exchange between the two rapiers in the middle of the shed can take place in
two different ways, that is:
 negative system  positive system
Air jet:
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion
performance and are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to
medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibres (sheets,
shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple yarns of man-made fibres); it has
anyway to be pointed out that technically positive results are obtained at present also
with heavy weight fabrics (denims) and that some manufacturers produce also machine
models for terry production. These machines are the ideal solution for those who want
to produce bulk quantities of customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range
generally from 190 to 400 cm. As regards the multicolour weft carrier, up to 8 different
wefts can be fed.
It has however to be considered that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy
consumption to prepare the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely
with increasing loom width and running speed. The reduction in the energy consumption
is in fact one of the main concerns of the manufacturers, and builds for the user an
important selection criterion.
S.NO. TYPES OF LOOMS NO. OF LOOMS
1 JACQUARD 18 ( air-jet – 2, rapier – 16)
2 DOBBY 325
3 PLAIN 32

43. For shedding mechanism jacquard and dobby machines were in use. There were 18
jacquard and 325 dobby machines.
JACQUARD SHEDDING MACHINE:
The name Jacquard machines originates from the designer who improved its operation;
today the name ″Jacquard″ is used to identify all machines with a capacity higher than
28-32 threads, which are therefore used to produce figured fabrics.
Jacquard machines were initially classified as follows:
 Jacquard machines
 Vincenzi machines
 Verdol machines
At present only Verdol machines and electronic Jacquard machines are still on the
market. Jacquard machines can be classified as follows:
According to card reading system:
 dobbies with endless pattern card reading system
 dobbies with electronic reading system
Electronic Jacquard
In these machines the traditional hooks have been replaced by electro-mechanically
operated modules which are driven and controlled by an electronic program. The
Jacquard machines available on the market are double lift machines and have in
respect to mechanical Jacquard machines following advantages:
 easy maintenance owing to following reasons:
 no point needing lubrication,
 few moving parts
 modular construction and thus easy access;
 low vibration even at high speed;

44.  reduced setting time, as the machine is electronically controlled and therefore no
paper is needed.
 Machine model – gamMax Picanol
 Speed of air-jet loom – 650 rpm
 Speed of rapier loom – 400 rpm
 Cost of loom – Rs. 4,00,000
 Cost of jacquard – Rs. 4,50,000
 Jacquard made for Home furnishings
 Yarns used –
viscose,polyester,chennile
 Design repeat – 14.28”
 Fabric/loom width – 72”
 Maximum jaqcuard hook capacity – 2688 hooks
• design hook capacity(body) – 2400 (rest 288 in selvedge)
PRINCIPLE & CONSTRUCTION OF
JACQUARD LOOM
 Principle : electromagnetic principle
 Electronic programming file(EPF) used
for making design
 Soft wares used :
Textronic,ANDX,SOPHIS
 CONSTRUCTION:
 52 solenoid boards are present in each
jacquard machine
 24 solenoids/board

45.  2 hooks attached between two solenoids on the board
 Each hook has a stopper which limits its updown movement.
 A belt is attached to the ends of the two hooks( top belt)
 The top belt holds a pulley which in turn is attached to a bottom belt
 The bottom belt is connected to the harness(wire or rope)
 The harness is attached to the heald wire of the loom through which warp
passes.
WORKING OF JACQUARD
 The solenoid attracts the hook as soon as it gets an electronic signal.
 The hook follows an updown movement according to the command from the
CPU.
 The hook in turn leads to the movement of the harness and hence the loom.
 Thus weaving takes place according to the fed design.
DOBBY SHEDDING MACHINE
Dobbies are used for the production of plain or flat fabrics, that is of fabrics
characterized by maximum 28-32 threads in the weave repeat.
Operation principle of a dobby
Today the rotary dobby is, from the technological point of view, the most advanced
dobby available on the market.
It consists of a central shaft on which the driving bars are positioned. On a follower ring
an eccentric plate is mounted; the plate is constrained within a block which is pivoted
with the control levers of the rods.
Under normal working conditions, that is with the heald frames in bottom position, there
is no connection between the follower ring and the plate; the connection can be
obtained by inserting a slider which runs in proper guides.

46. The central shaft is driven by a modulator which has two stop times situated each other
at 180 degrees ; at this very moment the key can be controlled according to the design
to be produced.
CORDUROY
• Corduroy is a textile composed of twisted fibers that, when woven, lie parallel
(similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord”.
• The width of the cord is commonly referred to as the size of the "wale" (i.e. the
number of ridges per inch).
• Corduroy is made by weaving extra sets of fiber into the base fabric to form
vertical ridges called wales.
• The float is cut and then brushed.
• Chemicals used for smoothening the rib pressed during finishing are siligen and
turbingal.
Corduroy is made mostly from
cotton. Long wefts span several
warp and when the weft is cut it
creates the familiar high raised lines
or cords with fine backing fabric
lines between. The cords lines run
the length of the warp. Like velvet,
corduroy should be cut in one
direction only when making a
garment or using heavier elephant
cords in upholstery.
This material is used to produce
casual wear such as trousers,
jeans, caps and jackets. It often has other names such as corded velveteen,

47. elephant cord, pin cord, Manchester cloth as it was produced as a Manchester
cotton textile and worn originally by poorer workers in the same way that fustian was
used. Manchester cloth was very good quality with dense pile but is virtually
impossible to obtain today. Cotton corduroy today is often mixed with Lycra to make
the fabric easier to wear and retain shape.
Weave Wash Dye
Grey
Bleach Finish
folding
Cut Brush Brush
Brush Inspect Fold Pack
The principles of constructing a corduroy fabric:
 The weave contains two pile
picks a, b and two ground picks
1, 2. The ground picks 1, 2
interlace with warp forming the
ground weave. Arrangement of
ground pick and pile pick is 1:2.
The pile pick floats over five

48. warp threads which are convenient for cutting process.
The pile picks interlace with the warp threads 5, 6 for binding the piles where the
intersections are called pile roots.
 After weaving, the pile weft was cut by specially constructed knives between the
warp threads 2 and 3 (where the arrow points in Fig. 8.1). Then, brushing it, the
piles will be upright, forming a full bulky band corduroy.
Working of a corduroy cutting machine:
 The circular knife is placed on a mandril A indicated by the arrow.
 As the knives revolve, fabric advances towards in the direction indicated by an
arrow F.
 A guide wire E is inserted in the fabric under the long weft floats. The guide wires
have these functions: 1) guiding the weft floats forming a loop-like: “race” to the

49. knives, and tautening them when they are cut, and 2) keeping the knives in the
centre of each “race”. As the uncut fabric approaches, the knives guide wires are
conveyed along by it, and consequently require to be pushed forward again
intermittently. This is accomplished by a series of spirally arranged rotary cams.
No. of machines at Bharat Vijay Mills:
Cutting : 12 (capacity 700m/shift)
Brushing : 2 (capacity 5000m/shift)
Inspection : 4
No. of workers: 56
In inspection of corduroy, there were two workers per inspection machine.

50. GREY FOLDING
• Fabrics comes to Grey folding after weaving.
• They are checked, mended and sorted here.
• The fabric comes with a lot card and is maintained by a register containing lot
no., sort no, date, bandha kg, meters, Finish width, contract no, grey width,
buyer, pallet no, number of pieces, sample etc.
• Capacity: 50,000 m/ shift
• No. of workers: 85
• No. of mending m/c: 14

51. DYEING & PROCESSING
PRETREATMENT
Pretreatment can be defined as a series of cleaning processes or operations that make
the fabric fit for the preceding process i.e. dyeing & printing.
Pretreatment processes should ensure:
 the removal of foreign materials from the fibres in order to improve their
uniformity, hydrophilic characteristics and affinity for dyestuffs and finishing
treatments
 the improvement of the ability to absorb dyes uniformly (which is the case in
mercerising)
 the relaxation of tensions in synthetic fibres (without this relaxation of tension,
unevenness and dimension instabilities can occur).
Before dyeing a fabric or yarn some pre-treatment and after treatment is needed. Cotton
pretreatment includes various wet operations, namely:
• Singeing
• Desizing
• Scouring
• Mercerising (and caustification)
• Bleaching.
1) Singeing
• Protruding fibre ends at the fabric surface disturb the surface appearance and produce
an effect known as "frosting" when dyed. It is therefore necessary to remove the surface
fibres by passing the fabric through a gas flame.
• The fabric is passed over a row of gas flames and then immediately into a quench bath
to extinguish the sparks and cool the fabric.

52. • The quench bath often contains a desizing solution, in which case the final step in
singeing becomes a combined singeing and desizing operation.
• Brushing was done to remove the remaining burnt fiber.
• Flame was perpendicular to the fabric and can be 1.5 to 4 mm from the end of the
flame.
• Natural gas (ONGC) was used
• Temperature < 90 degrees
• Speed is 80m/min.
• No. of machines – 1
Objective:
 Increase wettability, better dyeing characteristics, improved reflection, no frosty
look.
 Improved visibility of the fabric.
 Less pilling
 Decreased contamination through the removal of fluff and lint.
There are three types of singeing:
 Plate singeing
 Roller singeing
 Gas singeing
It is a continuous process carried out on dry open width fabric.It may be done on one
side or both sides.
2) Desizing
• Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp
yarns in woven fabrics.
• Sizes are applied to the warp yarns to assist in the weaving process.
Objective:
 Removal of added impurities like starch.

53.  Weight loss
 Improved wettability.
Rot steep
Enzymatic
Hydrolytic
steep
Acid steep
Desiging
Chlorite
oxidative chlorine
Bromite
• Enzymatic desizing was done i.e. enzymes were used to remove the size from the
fabric. The enzymatic process depends on the quantity of enzyme molecules per gram
of fabric, while the thermal stability of the enzyme depends on the bacteria strain from
which it originates.
Sizes are removed so that chemical penetration of the fabric in later stages(Dyeing
,Printing & finishing)is not inhibited.
 No. of machines – 1
 Speed of machine – 80 m/min
 Reaction time – 6-8 hrs
 Washing in hot wash (95 degrees)
3) Scouring
It is the process of removing natural impurities present in the cotton fibre. The natural
impurities are pectin’s, pectos, ash, wax, mineral compounds, etc. if those impurities
present in the cotton fibres are not removed, then it will be difficult to dye or print the
fabric uniformly. Normally caustic soda ash is used as main reagent fro scouring of
cotton fabric.

54. Objective:
 To remove natural fat, wax, oil materials containing in the fabrics without
damaging the fibres.
 To accelerate dye and chemical absorption of the fabrics.
 To improve the handle of the goods.
• done using NaOH and hot water(96-97 degree celcius) under high pressure
• time- 15-20 minutes
4) Bleaching
It is the process of removing natural coloring matters present in the cotton fibre. For his
purpose, hydrogen peroxide, bleaching powder or other bleaching agents are used.
Hydrogen peroxide is the best and most commonly used bleaching agent. If this
bleaching treatment is not carried out before dyeing or printing hen the color yield and
shade matching may be a great problem.
Objective:
 To whiten the goods.
 To make the goods suitable for dyeing and printing with pale or bright shade.
 To be follow with adding optical brightening agent process(super white)
There are two types of bleaching:
 Hydrogen peroxide
 Sodium hypochlorite.
Recipe
 Hydrogen peroxide, wetting agent, caustic, stabilizer
 NaOH (pH 10.5 to 11)
 Sequesterant
 Temperature: 95-100 C
 Speed of machine – 60-80m/min

55. Drying of fabric was done using heated rollers which had steam inside it.
No. of rollers – 28
5) Mercerization
It is a special chemical pre-treatment on cotton fabric t improves the properties and
performance of cotton fabric. The cotton fabric is treated under tension in the 20%
caustic soda solution which is called mercerization many properties of cotton fabric is
improved, some of them are mentioned below:
• Increases fabric strength
• Increases absorbency power
• Increases fabric luster
• Increases fabric softness and handle property
• Reduces dye consumption
• Reduces chemical consumption in dyeing
Two types of machines are used at Bharat Vijay Mills:
 Chain system
 Cylinder system
Objective:
 Increases lusture
 Strength
 Affinity to dye
 Resistance to mild dew
 Lint reduction
Mercerization of fabrics is performed using NaOH(22- 25%)
Tension is applied to the fabrics in the vertical direction with a tension cylinder, and in
the horizontal direction with a clip tenter.
The processing time by the cylinder and the tenter in total is 30 to 60 seconds.
NaOH applied in impregnator and temperature kept low(15-20degrees) for luster.

56. Then fabric washed in hot wash in 4 chambers.
Mercerized fabric is then dried.
Speed of machine – 40-50 m/min
DYEING
Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose fibre, yarn, cloth
or garment form by treatment with a dye.
FABRIC DYEING (piece dyeing)
In piece dyeing, which is used primarily for fabrics that are to be a solid color, a
continuous length of dry cloth is passed full-width through a trough of hot dye solution.
The cloth then goes between padded rollers that squeeze in the color evenly and
removes the excess liquid. In one variation of this basic method, the fabric, in a rope-
like coil, is processed on a reel that passes in and out of a dye beck or vat.
Types of dyeing
The following are the basic types of fabric dyeing machines:
1) Batch dyeing machine
2) Semi-continuous dyeing machine
3) Continuous dyeing machine
1) Batch dyeing
Batch Dyeing Process is the most popular and common method used for dyeing of
textile materials. Batch dyeing is also sometimes referred to as Exhaust dyeing. This is
because in this process, the dye gets slowly transferred from a comparatively large
volume dyebath to the substrate or material that is to be dyed. The time taken is also
longer. The dye is meant to 'exhaust' from dyebath to the substrate. In batch processes,

57. textile substrates can be easily dyed at any stage of their assembly into the desired
textile product. This includes fiber, yarn, fabric or garment. Some type of batch dyeing
machines can function at temperatures only up to 1000oC. For example cotton, rayon,
nylon, wool etc. can be dyed at 1000oC or lower temperatures. While polyester and
some other synthetic fibers are dyed at 1000 Centigrade or even higher temperatures.
There are three general types of batch dyeing machines. The first type is the one where
there is circulation of fabric. Second type is the one where the dyebath gets circulated
while the material that is being dyed remains stationary, and finally the third type where
both the bath and material to be dyed gets circulated.
The following are the types of batch dyeing processes:
1)Beck dyeing
2) Jet dyeing(soft flow dyeing
machine)
3) Jigger dyeing machine
Image showing Popular machines
utilizing the batch dyeing method
illustrated above.
For any dyers the ultimate dream is to
get the maximum out of the process
of dyeing, at minimal cost. For a batch
dyeing process the following
techniques can prove to be effective
for optimum utilization.

58.  Use machinery that are fitted with latest state-of-the-art automatic controllers of
fill volume, temperature and other dyeing cycle parameters, indirect system of
cooling and heating, innovative hoods and doors that lessens vapour losses.
 Choosing the machinery that is exactly sized for the batch that needs to be
processed. Also confirmation that it is operated exactly within the specified range
of nominal liquor ratios for which it is designed. It has been seen that machines
that are operated with a consistent liquor ratio while being loaded at 60 percent
level of their nominal capacity gives optimum results. With yarn dyeing machines
this level can stretch to even 30% of the nominal capacity.
 Opting new machineries that adheres to the following requirements:
o Liquor ratio that is low-or-ultra-low.
o Complete in process separation of bath from substrate.
o Mechanism that involves smooth internal separation of process liquor from
the washing liquor.
o Mechanical liquor extraction that brings the carry-over to minimum and
improves washing efficiency.
o A reduced cycle duration.
 Replacement of conventional overflow-flood rinsing method with methods like
drain and fill or other methods (for example smart rinsing for fabric).
 Proper re-use of rinsed water for the next dyeing session.
 Re-use of the dye bath if technical considerations allows.
At Bharat Vijay Mills, the following machines were used for batch dyeing:
(i)Jigger dyeing machine
 Fabric is dyed in its open or full
width and hence there is no problem
of creasing during dyeing.
 The machine consists of a small tub
and two drawing rollers located
above the dye bath.
 First the fabric is wound around one
of the rollers. During dyeing the

59. fabric is passed though the dye bath and rewound onto the second roller.
 When the complete fabric is passed though the bath, the direction of fabric
movement is reversed and this is repeated until the fabric is dyed completely.
 During dyeing, tension is imparted along the length of the fabric.
 Suitable for light weight and delicate fabrics.
 Liquor ratio is low(1:2 to 1:6)
 Used for dyeing fabric in small lots.
 Contact time between fabric and dye liquor is more in jigger than other dyeing
machines.
At BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:
 No. of machines – 5(200 kg – 1 machine, 800kg – 4 machine)
 Maximum speed – 100m/min
(ii) Soft flow dyeing machine
In this machine the fabric being dyed is
circulated through the dyeing machine on a
jet flow of dye bath. The high speed dye
liquor jet carries the fabric rope along, from
one end of dye vessel to the other end.
Less water,energy,time and chemicals are
required in this machine as compared to
other dyeing machine.
It is used for dyeing of delicate woven or
knits, textured and light weight fabrics.
The liquor ratio is very low(1:1)
At BHARAT VIJAY MILLS:
 No. of machines – 1
 Model – fong’s

60.  Fabric cycle time 1 to 10 min.*
 Chamber capacity 100 to 300 kg*
 Speed of water – 600 rpm
2) Semi continuous dyeing
In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad-jig, pad-roll the
fabric is first impregnated with the dye-liquor in, what is called a padding machine. Then
it is subjected to batch wise treatment in a jigger. It could also be stored with a slow
rotation for many hours. In the pad-batch this treatment is done at room temperature
while in pad-roll it is done at increased temperature by employing a heating chamber.
This helps in fixation of the dyes on to the fibre. After this fixation process, the material
in full width is thoroughly cleansed and rinsed in continuous washing machines. There is
only one point of difference between Continuous and semi-continuous dyeing process is
that in semi-continuous dyeing, the dye is applied continuously by a padding. The
fixation and washing remaining discontinuous. Liquor Ratio in semi-continuous dyeing is
not of much importance and is not taken as a parameter. One of the widely used
techniques for semi-continuous dyeing process is the Pad Batch Dyeing a schematic
diagram is given here for the semi-continuous dyeing process.
The following table shows some of the important machineries for semi-continuous and
continuous dyeing processes.
 Pad batch dyeing
Pad Batch Dyeing is one of the widely used technique for semi-continuous dyeing
process. It is mainly used in the dyeing of cellulosic fibre like cotton or viscose (knit and

61. woven fabric) with reactive dyes. Pad batch dyeing is a textile dyeing process that offers
some unique advantages in the form of versatility, simplicity, and flexibility and a
substantial reduction in capital investment for equipment. It is primarily a cold method
that is the reason why it is sometimes referred to as the cold pad batch dyeing.
Working of a cold dyeing process
The technique or process used in pad-batch
dyeing starts with saturating first the prepared
fabric with pre-mixed dye liquor. Then it is
passed through rollers. The rollers, or padders,
effectively forces the dyestuff into the fabric. In
the process, excess dye solution is also
removed. After removal of excess dye stuff the
fabric is subsequently "batched". This batching
is done by either storing it in rolls or in boxes. It
takes a minimum of 4-12 hours. The batches
are generally enclosed by plastic films. This
prevents absorption of carbon dioxide and water evaporation. Finally as the reaction is
complete the fabrics are washed. This is done by becks, beams, or any other washing
devices.
Special features of pad batch dyeing process
 Significant cost and waste reduction as compared to other conventional dyeing
processes.
 Total elimination of the need for salt and other specialty chemicals. For example
there is no need for anti-migrants, leveling agents and fixatives that are
necessary in conventional dyebaths.

62.  Optimum utilisation of dyes that eliminates specialty chemicals, cuts down
chemical costs and waste loads in the effluent. All this results in a formidable
reduction in wastewater treatment costs.
 Excellent wet fastness properties.
 Pad batch dyeing cuts energy and water consumption owing to low bath ratio
(dye:water) required for the process. This is because unlike other dyeing
processes it does not function at high temperatures.
 A uniform dye quality is achieved with even color absorbency and colour
fastness.
 As compared to rope dyeing, Pad batch dyeing produces much lower defect
levels.
 In pad batch dyeing, qualities like high shade reliability and repeatability are
common. This is because of high reactivity dyes with rapid fixation rate and
stability.
 Lastly Pad batch dyeing can also improve product quality. The fabric undergoing
the cold pad batch dyeing process is able to retain an uniformly coloured
appearance. It shows added luster and gives a gentle feel. The fabric gives a
brighter look in shades.
No. of machines in the mill: 3
3) Continuous dyeing
The working of a continuous dyeing process is described here. The textile substrates
are feeded continuously into a dye range. The speeds can vary between 50 to 250
meters per minute. According to Industry estimates Continuous dyeing is a popular
dyeing method and accounts for around 60% of total yardage of the products that are
dyed.

63. A Continuous dyeing process typically consists the following. Dye application, dye
fixation with heat or chemicals and finally washing. Continuous dyeing has been found
to be most suitable for woven fabrics. Mostly continuous dye ranges are designed for
dyeing blends of polyester and cotton. The step of padding plays a key role in the
operation of continuous dyeing. Sometimes Nylon carpets are also dyed in continuous
processes, but the design ranges for them is unlike that for flat fabrics. Warps are also
dyed in continuous process. Very good examples of such warp dyeing are long chain
warp dyeing and slasher dyeing using indigo.
A continuous dye range has been found useful and economically sustainable for dyeing
long runs of a given shade. One important factor that separates continuous dyeing from
batch dyeing is the tolerance factor for color variation. That is more for continuous
dyeing as compared to batch dyeing. This is so because of two reasons a) the speed of
the process. b) presence of a large number of process variables which affects dye
application. The process that is illustrated below is designed for dyeing of blended fabric
of polyester and cotton.

64. Some of the popular methods in continuous dyeing process are Pad-steam, Wet-steam,
thermosol dyeing, TAK dyeing, space dyeing, and pad-steam dyeing long chain warp
dyeing etc.
Process
Continuous and to some extent semi-continuous dyeing processes both are less prone
to water consumption than batch dyeing, but results in high concentration of residues. If
some strict control measures are taken up it is possible to reduce this losses of
concentrated liquor. The following steps may prove useful.
 Applying low add-on liquor application systems along with minimising of volume
capacity of the dip through when pad dyeing techniques are in operation.
 Adoption of latest dispensing systems, where the chemicals get dispensed on-
line as separate streams. They gets mixed only at the moment just before the
delivery to the applicator.
 Using any of the following systems for dosing of the padding liquor. Important to
know that it should be strictly according to the measurement of the pick up:
o A proper measurement of the dyeing liquor quantity consumption in
comparison to the processed fabric. The resulting values thus obtained
are processed automatically and applied in preparing the next comparable
batch.
o Application of the technique of rapid batch dyeing. Here the dyestuff
solution is prepared just in time, with steps that are based on on-line
measurement of the pick up. This proves better than those dyestuff that is
kept prepared already for the whole batch before the commencement of
the dyeing batch.

65.  To increase washing efficiency based on the proven principles like reduction of
carry-over and counter-current washing.
At Bharat Vijay Mills, the following continuous dyeing machines were used:
(i) Pad dry dyeing machine
No. of machines at BVM – 1
Machine model – kusters calico machinery
DYE BATH
Dye =10 g/l
Antimigrant =10 g/l
Reduction inhibitor =10 g/l
CHEMICAL RECIPE
Caustic soda (48 Be) = 4-8 g/l
Soda ash = 10 g/l
Salt = 250 g/l
PROCEDURE
 Prepare dye bath and auxiliary bath separately.
 Pad the fabric in dye bath at 60 - 70 % pick up and then dry the fabric.
 Then again pad the dyed piece of fabric in chemical bath at 80 % pick up and put
it in steam for 1.5 min.
(ii) Pad steam dyeing machine
No. of machines at BVM – 1
Machine model – kusters calico machinery
RECIPE
Dye = 10 g/l
Glaubar salt =10 g /l
Soda ash = 15 g/l

66. Reduction inhibitor = 10 g/l
PROCEDURE
 Pad the fabric in dye bath at 60 – 70 % pick up.
 Then steam the fabric for 1- 2 min
WASHING
Cold wash 30 – 40 ° C
Warm wash 50 – 60 ° C
Soaping with detergent 2g/l detergent at 90 -100 ° C
Warm wash at 50 -60 ° C
Cold wash 30 -40 ° C

67. TESTING
QUALITY CONTROL AND INSPECTION
Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the
value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for
the fabric manufacturer, which in turn results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and
foreign exchange for the country. The perceived quality of a fabric is the result of a
number of aspects, which together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the
customer. Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts –sales
service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any fabric manufacturer.
Quality control at BHARAT VIJAY MILLS
At Bharat Vijay Mills, quality control commences from raw material procurement. They
use eco-friendly dyes and chemicals that are sourced from reputed companies. Their
fully computerized quality-control laboratory checks everything from fibre to fabric to
chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries.
AATCC (American Association of textile chemist and colorist) and ASTM
(American society for testing and materials) standards are followed at Bharat Vijay
mills for quality control and testing of fabrics.
4 – Point inspection system was followed for inspection of fabrics.
This numeric grading system is endorsed by the American Society for Testing and
Materials (ASTM), The American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and the
European Clothing Manufacturing Association (ECMA).

68. Length of defects (in inches) Points
< 3” 1
3”to 6” 2
6” to 9” 3
> 9” 4
Diameter of holes (in inches) Points
<1 2
>= 1 4
Points calculation in 4 point system:
Defect points per sq. meter = total points X 10,000
(Fabric width in cms X total length
inspected in meters)
• Maximum no. of points in any one linear yard is 4 regardless of no. of defects.
• Grading irrespective of end use
• Not sensitive to width variations of the fabric
• Does not consider defects in inconspicuous areas (patterns/markers)
• No standard viewing conditions

69. Fabric defects
Askewed or Bias: condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns on
woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits.
Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric
width.
Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.
Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through
squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.
Jerk-in: caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by
the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.
Knots: caused by tying spools of yarn together.
Missing Yarn: Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn)
placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have
different affinity for dye.
Mixed End (yarn): Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a
streak in the fabric
Open Reed: results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart,
exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns
on warp and shuttle
Pin Holes: Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes
through tenter frame.

70. Puckered Selvage: Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by
uneven wetting out in sanforization process
Sanforize Pucker: Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by
defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting
table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with fabric under roller
tension.
Scrimp: the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through tenter
frames.
Slub: usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be
caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in
the spinning process.
Smash: caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.
Soiled Filling or End: Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on
packaged-dyed yarn.
Stop Mark: when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when the loom
starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.
Thin Place: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run
until the operator notices the problem
Types of testing in Bharat Vijay Mills:
FIBER TESTING:
Raw material represents about 50 to 70% of the production cost of a short-staple yarn.
This fact is sufficient to indicate the significance of the rawmaterial for the yarn

71. producer. It is not possible to use a problem-free raw material always , because cotton
is a natural fibre and there are many properties which will affect the performance.
The basic chareteristics of cotton fibre
 Fibre length  Maturity
 Fineness  Rigidity
 Strength
YARN TESTING:
Yarn occupies the intermediate position in the manufacture of fabric from raw material.
Yarn results are therefore essential, both for estimating the quality of rawmaterial and
for controlling the quality of fabric produced.
The important characteristics of yarn being tested are:
 Yarn twist  Yarn elongation
 Linear density  Yarn evenness
 Yarn strength  Yarn hairness
FABRIC TESTING:
The textile industry is becoming an increasingly competitive environment. Differentiating
products is therefore important and this can be facilitated through improving quality.
Testing can be used to improve product quality and achieve compliance to international,
regional or retailer specific standards.
Various testing instruments in Bharat Vijay Mills:
1) Cotton testing machine – Uster 6) Cotton trash analyzer
HVI 900
7) Trash separator
2) Count strength product(CSP)
8) Fabric Strength tester
3) Single yarn strength tester
9) GSM tester
4) Uniformity tester-Uster tester-4-
SX 10) Wrap reel
5) Fault Tester – Uster classimat – 3 11) Yarn twist tester
12) Tearing tester

72. Cotton testing machine – Uster HVI 900:
It is used to determine the fibre length, length uniformity
and short fibre index
 Monitoring the fibre length is essential to producing
yarn that meets your quality needs.
 The USTER FIBROSAMPLER measures properties
of fibre samples taken from bales and card mat.
 Because interrelationships between fibre properties
dictate that long cottons are also strong cottons,
fibre length has a substantial impact on yarn
evenness, yarn strength, and spinnability.
Single yarn strength tester:
Technical Specifications
Tensile strength and elongation are the two prime
characteristics of most of the raw materials.
Technical Data :
 Capacity Of The Tester : 5 Kg, Acc. 1 g, 30
Kg, Acc. 5 g
 Speed Of Traverse : 300 mm/min.
 Motor : ¼ H.P. 230 volts AC.
 Gripping Distance : Minimum – 8” and
Maximum -20”
 Elongation : 80 – 100%
 Over Load Safety : Provided

73. Uniformity tester - Uster tester-4-SX
To check the slightest deviation in evenness of yarn.
 The USTER TESTER-4-SX is an indispensable instrument for quality control of
filament yarns and has long become a synonym for the highest precision
standards.
 Even the smallest fluctuation in evenness is very important in filament yarns, and
this makes the difference between profitable and non-profitable production.
 The spectrogram of the capacitive measurement makes every periodical fault in
the spinning machine and the spinning process immediately visible.
 Test speeds of up to 800 m/min is ensured.
Fault Tester – Uster classimat – 3
To measure the yarn faults.
 It checks for cleared and unclear yarn, providing perfect classification of thick
and thin places, as well as checking infrequently occurring yarn defects.
 Determining infrequently occurring yarn faults in 23 classes.
 Monitoring yarn counts, measurement of length and weight.
 Compare your measuring results with the
international quality benchmarks directly on the
screen. This way, you always have your desired
quality standard under control.
Cotton trash analyzer:
This Trash Analyser is well known and well proven
machine in the Textile Industry for many decades and
established its maintenance free performance in

74. determining the Trash and contamination content in any type of cotton and established
its fact as more suitable for industrial Purpose in Cotton Textile Mills.
Fabric Strength tester:
This instrument is a robust motor driven floor
model machine which records breaking strength
and elongation at break point with graph facility.
GSM tester:
Sample cutters are designed to cut fabric samples to determine the GSM. Sample cutter
is applicable to Woven, Knitted & Non-Woven Fabrics.
 Sample cutter is used to determine accurately the GSM (Grams per
square meter) of any type of fabrics.
 Ergonomic latest design with modern
aesthetics.
 Smooth precision engineered
components for excellent performance.
 Stainless steel blade holders for lifelong
excellent operations.
 Complete with all accessories along with
four special rubberized foam cutting pad
for smooth cutting & long life of the
blades & two sets of cutting blades.
 Weight: 1.7 Kgs
 Dimension:

75. Diameter Height
160 mm 110 mm
6.25 inch 4.3 inch
Wrap reel:
 Used to make lea of yarn.
 Digital control panel with resettable revolution counter.
 Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or 1.5yds perimeter.
 Bobbin holding stand can accommodate bobbins dia up to 100mm.
 Five leas can be made
together.
 Complete with all
accessories.
Yarn twist tester:
 Single yarn twist tester used to make lea of yarn.
 Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.
 Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or
1.5yds perimeter.
 Bobbin holding stand can
accommodate bobbins dia up to
100mm.
 Five leas can be made together.
 Complete with all accessories.

76. Tearing tester :
 Tearing strength tester to determine tearing strength of knitted and
woven fabrics.
 Capacity up to 6.400Kgs.
 With adjustable cutting knife.
 Having three variable capacity 1.600kg,
3.200kg & 6.400kg for different type of
fabrics.
 Latest design with modern
sophisticated look.
 Complete with accessories including
three calibration weights.
DYEING LAB
1) DATA COLOR DISPENSER
2) YARN DYEING MACHINE
3) COLOR COMPUTER MATCHING
4) COLOR MATCHING MACHINE:
DATA COLOR DISPENSER:
It is design for Textile Laboratory where speed accuracy and repeatability are the
primary focus.

77. Features:
 Accurate temperature sensor and controller ensures that the hot water is
always at the required temperature
 Anti-wind doors ensures that the accuracy of the preparation of solutions
is not affected by external influences
 Moveable dispense head allows easy addition of dyestuff to the solution
bottles, and also allows the use of different size bottles
 Automatic hot water and cold water tank refill valves ensures that supply
of water is always readily available
 The use of 4 dispense valves, 3 cold water and 1 hot water, ensures fast
preparation of the solutions
 A small footprint ensures the system does not take up a large amount of
laboratory space
 Spacious dispense area ensures easy access to the solution bottles for
the addition of dyestuffs or chemicals
 More accurate solutions
 Precise weighing of dyestuffs up to 1000th of a decimal
 Automated, error-free procedures.
COLOR COMPUTER MATCHING:
The basic three things are important in CCMS:
1. Color measurement Instrument (Spectrophotometers).
2. Reflectance (R%) from a mixture of Dyes or Pigments applied in a specific way.
3. Optical model of color vision to closeness of the color matching.

78. Functions of Computer Color Matching System:
1. Color match prediction. 6. Cost Comparison.
2. Color difference calculation. 7. Strength evaluation of dyes.
3. Determine metamerism. 8. Whiteness indices.
4. Pass/Fail option. 9. Reflectance curve and K/S curve.
5. Color –fastness rating. 10. Production of Shade library. Etc.
Advantages of Computer Color Matching System (CCMS)
Computer Color Matching System (CCMS) has lots of great advantages in Textile
Industry.
1. Customers get the exact shade wanted with his knowledge of degree of
metamerism.
2. Customers often have a choice of 10-20 formulation that will match color. By
taking costing, availability of dyes, and auxiliaries into account, one can choose a
best swatch.
3. 3 to 300 times faster than manual color matching.
4. Limited range of stock color needed.
Colour Matching Machine:
Colour Matching Machine is designed to evaluate the colour matching of fabrics, yarns
or any coloured materials. Color Matching machine checks matching under a standard
light source in a closed environment to minimize the interference of external lights
Fastness testing equipments:
1) Crock Meter 3) Launderometer
2) Light fastness tester 4) Perspirometer

79. Crock Meter:
 Crock Meter is used to determine the Colour Fastness of Textiles to Dry
or Wet Rubbing as per ISO/AATCC Standards.
 Ergonomic design of crock meter
which meets ISO/AATCC
requirements.
 Steel Sample Holder for rapid sample
mounting.
 Mechanical type, re-settable Counter.
 Light in weight for mobility.
 Complete with all accessories including 1000 crocking clothes of
ISO/AATCC,
 Supplied With Inspection and Calibration Certificate.
Light fastness tester:
A test specimen together with blue wool standards is exposed to the light from a
MBTL fading Lamp. The Colour Fastness of the
specimen is assessed by comparing its fastness
with that of 1 – 8 Blue Wool Standards.
Equipment :
Digital light fastness teser consists of a hollow
cylinder of metal open at both ends with an
internal diameter of 18” and length of 18”. A 500
W MBTL fading lamp is mounted centrally so that
the light distribution is constant around the
circumference. An hour meter with buzzer and hour totalizer are mounted on the
base. Four specimen holders are installed at equidistance in inner
circumference of cylinder alongwith metal sheet mask to cover half of each test

80. specimen and the standards. As temperature may touch 800 C constant cooling
arrangement with water flow is provided. A horizontal pump and water tank are
included in scope of supply.
Testing Standards Required :
 1 to 8 Blue Wool Light Fastness Standard of ISO
 Grey Scale of Change in Colour of ISO
Launderometer:
 Micro processor based temp control and
timer.
 40 RPM
 Heating Medium Water (99°C max)
 Available with 8 beakers of 500ml: and
also as per custom design.
Perspirometer:
 Perspiration tester to determine colorfastness to
perspiration.
 Ergonomic latest design with modern aesthetics.
 Smooth precision engineered components for
excellent performance.

81.  Complete with two units to test two different type of sample & 20 samples can be
tested at a time in a single unit.
 Complete with all accessories –acrylic palates, adjacent fabrics etc.
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
It refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look,
performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing.
Types of finishes:
• Wrinkle Free Or Easy To Iron. • Anti-microbial finish
• Flame Retardant • Peach finishing
• Water Repellent • Raising
• Waterproof • Calendering
• Anti-static • Sanforizing or Pre-shrinking etc.
• Soil release
Calendering is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and
passed under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on
fabrics such as moire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types
of sateens.
In preparation for calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise with the front side, or face,
inside, and stitched together along the edges. The fabric can be folded together at full
width, however this is not done as often as it is more difficult. The fabric is then run
through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous.
High temperatures and pressure are used as well. Fabrics that go through the
calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.

82. The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in water
destroys it, as does wear with time.
Several different finishes can be achieved through the calendering process by varying
different parts. The main different types of finishes are beetling, watered, embossing
and Scheiner.
Sanforization is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles
made from natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–
1968) in 1930. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both
length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would
otherwise occur after washing.
The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein moistened with
either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber band against another heated
rotating cylinder, thereby the rubber band briefly gets compressed and afterwards
shrinks to its final size. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber band and
heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief expansion and recontraction and thus
gets shrunk.
The bigger the pressure applied to the rubber band the bigger the shrinking afterwards.
The aim of the process is a cloth which does not shrink during clothes production by
cutting, sewing or by wearing and washing the finished clothes.
Fire Resistant or Flame Retardant finish: To reduce flammability.
Lisa Finish: Lisa Finish on different kinds of fabric that brings smoothness and ensures
fine effects.
Brushing and Raising: Brushing and Raising of textiles with the help of Brushing and
Raising machine. These machines are used for processing of fabric and provide soft
feel, better texture and warmth to the fabric.

83. Peach finish: With the character of soft,rich and warm hand feeling, the peach product
is one of the most popular finishes on fabric in recent years. This finish will turn
garments into natural and archaized after washing.
FINISH FOLDING
After the fabric being processed, it then comes for inspection and packing. Here the
Fabric is inspected on the basis of four point system.
No. of machines in Bharat Vijay Mills:
Inspection: 12
Packing: 1
Folding: 1
No. of workers: 100
There were Four categories of finished Fabric after inspection:
 Fresh  Good-cut
 Seconds  Fresh short length
Packing:
Low-density polyethylene(LDPE) plastics were used for packing. Firstly they were
packed in polybags and after that as specified by buyer.
Three types of packing that was done there was:
 Roll packing
 Than packing
 Piece packing
99% roll packing was done, and 1% than and piece packing was done.
Maximum length of roll: 300 m

84. Than and Piece Packing
Roll Packing

85. CONCLUSION
Our textile internship at Bharat Vijay Mills, Kalol, Gujarat came to an end on 7th January,
2011 but the knowledge that we gained over there will take us far. It was really a
learning and knowledgeable experience interning at Bharat Vijay mills.
The objective of our internship was fulfilled satisfactorily perhaps even more. It helped
us relate our theoretical concepts to the practical application in this world of textiles
which doubled our knowledge of textiles. We came to learn about the complete textile
processing from fiber to fabric, the machineries used and all other vital processes that
occur in a composite textile mill.
Besides technical knowledge, we also had a glance at the functioning, organizational
infrastructure, management and other routines of such a huge organization- BHARAT
VIJAY MILLS which is a textile division of SINTEX INDUSTRIES, the leading
manufacturer of plastic goods.
Thus, textile internship not only helped us increase our basic knowledge of this field but
also helped us acquire knowledge of other subjects and even broadened our outlook. It
was really a wonderful and knowledge gaining experience interning at Bharat Vijay
Mills.

86. BIBLIOGRAPHY
Book:
Fiber To Fabric By B.P. Corbman
Internet Sources:
 www.cotton.org  www.apparelsearch.com
 www.msptex.com  www.teonline.com
 www.p2pays.org  www.textiletechnology.com
 www.textileschool.com
Our Learning diary