Industrial Attachment Eurotex Knitwear Ltd.

PRIMEASIAUNIVERSITY
Department Of TextileEngineering
Banani,Dhaka-1213
Dhaka, Bnagladesh
Supervisor Teacher:
Dr. M.A. Sayeed
AssociateProfessor
DepartmentOfTextileEngineering
Primeasia University
INDUSTRIALATTACHMENT
EUROTEXKNITWEARLTD
Prepared By
Md. NahidHassan
ID:142-026-041
DepartmentOfTextileEngineering
Primeasia University
IndustrialTraining&Practise– I &II
CourseCode:TEX426&428

Acknowledgement
AtfirstI wouldliketothankalmightyAllahfor givingmetheopportunitytocomplete myinternship.I
havetakenanopportunitytoexpressmydeepestsinceofgratitude andsincerethankstomy
reverendteacherProf.M.AKhaleq,Deen,Departmentof TextileEngineering,PrimeasiaUniversity,
Banani, Dhaka.
It isanauspiciousformeastudentofDepartmentofTextileEngineering.oneofthe prestigious
academiccentreofthePrimeasiaUniversitytoexpressmydeepfeeling ofgratitudetothe
departmentandespeciallytomysupervisorDr.M.A. Sayeed, DepartmentofTextileEngineering.
SpecialthankstogoMd. ShahidulIslam,ManagingDirectorofEurotexKnitwearLtd. Forkindhelp
extendtome.
I alsothanktoMd. ShakhawatHossain,DirectorofEurotexKnitwearLtd. I alsothank
toMd. BelayetHossain,ChairmanofEurotexKnitwear Ltd.
I wouldliketothankMr. SelimChowdhury,Head(HR&Compliance)ofEurotex Knitwear
Ltd.
I wouldliketothankMdAzimHassan(Sr.QualityManager)ofEurotexKnitwearLtd. forhis
valuabledirectionandspecialattention.
I wanttooffermydeepestthanksandcomplementstomyparentsandbrotherfor theirunselfish
andstimulatinginfluenceinmyanyeducationlife.
FinallymycordialgratitudetoalmightyAllahtosuccessfullycompletedmyindustrial attachment.
Spring-2018 Md NahidHassan
EUROTEXKNITWEARLTD

INDEX
Contents
Chapter one: ProjectDescription.....................................................................................................................1
Introduction.....................................................................................................................................................1
COMPANY PROFILE..........................................................................................................................................2
Type of Factory& Concern Department...........................................................................................................3
Organogram.....................................................................................................................................................5
Chapter Two: ManagementSystem.................................................................................................................6
Managing Director ...........................................................................................................................................6
General Manager (operation)..........................................................................................................................6
Finance and Accounts(DGM)...........................................................................................................................7
GeneralManager(HR & Compliance) ..............................................................................................................7
Inventory Manager ..........................................................................................................................................8
Quality ControlIn-charge.................................................................................................................................8
Compliance officer...........................................................................................................................................8
Accounts Executive..........................................................................................................................................9
Security In-charge............................................................................................................................................9
Sewingoperators...........................................................................................................................................10
Chapter Three: Machineries...........................................................................................................................11
Garments Machineries...................................................................................................................................11
Knitting Machineries :....................................................................................................................................12
MachineType:Rib & Inter Lock (DoubleJersey)............................................................................................13
MachineType:Single Jersey (Relaknit:4.0/3.2ll)............................................................................................15
MachineType:PlainS/J& Fleece...................................................................................................................15
LaboratoryMachineries.................................................................................................................................15
Dyeing Machineries (Sample):.......................................................................................................................16
Chapter four: Manpower...............................................................................................................................17
TotalManpowerandSectionWise Manpower: .............................................................................................17
Administration Department: .........................................................................................................................17
Accounts Department....................................................................................................................................18
IE & Planning Department .............................................................................................................................18
Merchandising Department...........................................................................................................................18
Maintenance Department .............................................................................................................................19
Security Department......................................................................................................................................20
Inventory Department ...................................................................................................................................20
Cutting Department.......................................................................................................................................21
Production Department.................................................................................................................................21

Printing Department......................................................................................................................................22
Quality Department.......................................................................................................................................22
Finishing Department ....................................................................................................................................23
ChapterFive:Raw Materials ..........................................................................................................................23
Yarn ...............................................................................................................................................................23
Fabric:............................................................................................................................................................24
Chemicals: .....................................................................................................................................................24
Chapter Six: Knitting section..........................................................................................................................27
Process Flow chart of Knitting:.......................................................................................................................27
Parts of knitting Machines: ............................................................................................................................28
Design Developmentbyusing CAM: ..............................................................................................................28
End products of circular knitting machine:.....................................................................................................29
Production Calculation: .................................................................................................................................30
Faults of Knitting:..........................................................................................................................................31
Flat KnittingMachines Fault:.........................................................................................................................34
ChapterSeven:Batching section....................................................................................................................35
Batch process flow chart:..............................................................................................................................35
Batch management:.......................................................................................................................................36
Chapter Eight: Lab section.............................................................................................................................37
Labdip:..........................................................................................................................................................37
The responsibilities of the laboratory are:.....................................................................................................37
Laboratory worksequence : ..........................................................................................................................38
Lab Dyeing process follow up:.......................................................................................................................39
Properties test...............................................................................................................................................40
Calculation:....................................................................................................................................................42
ChapterNine: Dyeing section.........................................................................................................................43
Cellulose: .......................................................................................................................................................43
Classesof dyesonthe basisof suitability of dyeingdifferent fibers:..............................................................44
Theory of Reactive Dyeing:............................................................................................................................44
Structuralcharacteristics of ReactiveDye:.....................................................................................................44
Dyeingmechanismiscompletedbythree stages-..........................................................................................45
Dyeing Assistance:.........................................................................................................................................47
Factorsto beconsideredfor dye& dyeing process selection: ........................................................................47
Dyeing Process:..............................................................................................................................................48
Dyeing faults Causes andRemedies:..............................................................................................................57
ChapterTen:Finishing section .......................................................................................................................60
Introduction of Finishing................................................................................................................................60
Flow Chart of finishingfor tube fabric:..........................................................................................................61

FlowChartof finishingfor openWidth fabric:...............................................................................................62
Typesoffinishing:..........................................................................................................................................62
Finishing effects:............................................................................................................................................63
Observationof Different FinishingM/C: ........................................................................................................63
Squeezer:-......................................................................................................................................................63
Dryer .............................................................................................................................................................65
TUBE COMPACTOR ........................................................................................................................................66
OPEN COMPACTOR........................................................................................................................................67
Slitting Machine.............................................................................................................................................67
Stenter Machine ............................................................................................................................................68
Fabric Inspection: ..........................................................................................................................................70
ChapterEleven: Quality Assurance System....................................................................................................71
Quality Assurance System..............................................................................................................................71
Quality Control: .............................................................................................................................................72
Quality assurance: .........................................................................................................................................73
Quality Control Flow Chart:...........................................................................................................................73
Quality Managementsystem:........................................................................................................................74
Process control: .............................................................................................................................................74
Finish fabric inspection:.................................................................................................................................75
Color Fastness:- .............................................................................................................................................77
Chapter Twelve:Garments Section................................................................................................................81
Sample SectionResponsibilities:....................................................................................................................81
Usages Machineries:......................................................................................................................................81
Theymakethree typesof sample. Such as - ..................................................................................................82
Workingprocedure:.......................................................................................................................................82
CAD (Computer Aided Design)Section...........................................................................................................83
Workingprocedure:.......................................................................................................................................84
Considerable factor: ......................................................................................................................................84
Temaconsumption lorall type of fabricswith biofinish................................................................................85
Cutting section...............................................................................................................................................86
Requirements of fabric spreading:.................................................................................................................88
Process loss: ..................................................................................................................................................89
Communication moduleof Sample,CADandCuttingSection:.......................................................................90
Types of sewingMachine:..............................................................................................................................90
Thread Use In Different Machine: ...........................................................................................................91
Training Exercise Sheet:.................................................................................................................................92
Single Needle SewingMachine:PlainMachine ..............................................................................................92
Cylinder BedMachine:...................................................................................................................................93

Flat Bed Machine:..........................................................................................................................................94
Sequence of garment production: .................................................................................................................95
SEWING SEQUENCE OFT-SHIRT:....................................................................................................................95
Sewing sequence of Jacket: ...........................................................................................................................97
SEWING DEFECTS ORPROBLEMS:..................................................................................................................98
FINISHING SECTION .....................................................................................................................................100
INTERNATIONAL CARE CODES FOR APPARELS: ............................................................................................100
LABELS .........................................................................................................................................................100
PRESSING.....................................................................................................................................................101
Packing Instruction for Cartooning: ....................................................................................................101
Washing.......................................................................................................................................................101
PRINTING ..................................................................................................................................................102
Embroidery: ..............................................................................................................................................110
ChapterThirteen:Maintenance....................................................................................................................111
ChapterFourteen:EFFLUENTTREATMENT...................................................................................................113
Chapter Fifteen: Compliance........................................................................................................................114
Conclusion ...................................................................................................................................................117
Important Abbreviations for TextileandApparel ManufacturingTechnology: ............................................118

1
Chapter one: ProjectDescription
Introduction
Industrialattachmentisanessentialpartof 4yearsB.ScinTextileEngineeringcourse ofPrimeasia
University,Banani,Dhaka.AsaTextilegraduateshouldhaveanexperiencein thestudyofGarments
ManufacturingTechnology,machineriesproductsandoverall situationoftheFactorybeforeworkinthe
industries.I havetheopportunityto performthe industrialattachmentonEurotexKnitwearLtd.Eurotex
KnitwearLtd,isarenownedand moderntechnologyintegratedindustry.
EurotexKnitwearsLtd,startedintheyear1988inknitgarmentexporter,EurotexKnitwear Ltd.Crossedover
alongwayandfoundusasoneof thebestknitwearmanufacturer- exporterofBangladesh.
EurotexKnitwearLtd.certifiedwithOKEO-TEX,ISO9001-2000&SRMandalsogettingby WRAPand
ISO-14001
EurotexKnitwearLtd.strivetoprovidethebestqualitygarmentto thebuyers.Factory providedadvanced
technologyinallaspectsofoperationtoattainexcellenceconcerning quality,dependabilityandcommitment
forapparelindustryandsociety.Productqualityis ensuredwiththepracticeofadvancedtechnologyandour
inclinationtowardmeetingwith thebuyer'ssatisfactionwithcompetitiveprice.
Fig:Locationmapof the EKL

2
COMPANYPROFILE
Factory: Eurotex KnitwearLtd.
FactoryAddress: Nayamati, Kutubpur, Fatullah, Narayanganj,
Bangladesh
Phone- 88-02-7646605
Fax- 88-02-7644953
DhakaOffice: House1/A, Flat# 3A, R#02 Sec#03 Uttara
Dhaka-1230.Bangladesh
LondonOffice: EuroApparel Sourcing
Suite5, 39-41 ChaseSide,Southgate, London,
N14 5BP
Mob: 00447915058212
ManagingDirector: Md. ShahidulIslam
Yearof Establishment: 1988
Area of Premises: 150000sqft
Number of Employee: 1800
Yearlyturnover: $40million
ProductionCapacity: Knitting- 10 tons/day
Dyeing-15 tons/day
DyeingFinishing-15tons/day
Garments-60000pcs/day
GarmentsWashing-10000pcs/day
Printing-50000 pcs/day
Embroidery-50 Head

3
Contact: Md. ShahidulIslam, Managing Director
Phone- 88-02-7646605.
Email:islam@eurotexbd.net.
Md. Belayet Hossain,Chairman
Phone- 88-02-7646605.
Email:belayet@eurotexbd.net.
Md. ShakhawatHossain,Director
Cell# +8801714367015.
Email: shakhawat@eurotexbd.net
Bank: 1) National Bankof Pakistan
2) OneBankLimited
3) DutchBanglaBankLimited
Buyers: H& M
NextBusiness
PRIMARK
NKD
BERSHKA
ZARA
Typeof Factory& ConcernDepartment
Thefactoryisa Knitcompositeindustry. Thefactoryhasthe following departments-
Knitting:
 Knitting
 Inspection
 Qualitycontrol
Dyeing:
 Batchsection

4
 Dyehouse
 Dyeinglaboratory
 Qualitycontrol
 Finishing
Garments:
 Merchandising
 Sample
 CuttingSection
 SewingSection
 FinishingSection
Maintenance:
 Electrical
 Mechanical
Administration
Security
Marketing
ProductionPlanning& Control
HumanResource& Development
Remarks
Thefactoryhasoutstandingqualityofproducingandexportinggoods.Theinfrastructureisthe fabriciswell enoughto
beaverygoodcompositefactoryinBangladesh.Theinformation’saregiven accordingtosourceofManagement
department.

6
Chapter Two: Management System
ManagingDirector
 ReportingtoChairperson
 Responsibletoboardofdirector/s
 Havingtotalchargeoftheoperation
 Directlyresponsibletooverlookmarketingdepartmentandfulfillmarketingrequirements
 Monitorfactoryoperationandmakesureordersaredeliveredontime,withcustomer's requiredquality
ataminimumcost
 TakethetotalchargeofallhumanresourceactivitiesandmakesureFKL.Tohave professional
andcheerfulworkforceDirector
 ReportingtoManagingDirector
 Directco-ordinationwithProductionManager/ SampleRoomIn-Charge/ QualityManager/ LabIn-
Charge.
 Productanalyzingandprovidingtechnicalguidanceforoptimumbenefitofthecompany.
 Monitorproductivityandtakenecessaryactionsandgiveadvises.
 Takechargeofallpreproductionactivities.
 Takechargeofallnewdevelopments.
 Identifytanningneeds.
 Maintain safetysystemandprocedures.
 Introducecosteffectivemanagementmethods.
GeneralManager(operation)
 ReportdirectlytoManagingDirector&Director.
 Taketotalchargeofthefactoryactivities.
 Takechargeofadministration/ fundmanagement/ costcontrol/purchasing/ production planning/ store
andstockcontrol/ deliveryschedulesandcompliance.
 Directlycontrolallthesystemmaintenanceandupgrading.
 Takeresponsibilityofallinformationflowto/ fromheadofficewiththehelpofcoordinator
 TakechargeofallrecruitmentsandterminationswiththeguidanceofDirector.General Manager
(Production)
 ReportdirectlytoManagingDirector.
 NegociatewiththeMerchandisingDGM
 Co-ordinatewiththeMerchandisingdepartmentaboutcosting&Consumption.
 DirectlyReporttotheDirectorabouttheGarmentsUnit.
 overallmonitoringtheproductivityandtakenecessaryactions.
 ResponsibletoProductionManager.Merchandising(DGM)
 Co-ordinatewithMarketingofficer,DirectoroperationsandSampleRoomIn-Charge.
 UpgradeManagingDirectorontheprogress.Follow-uponneworderconfirmationsand transfer
informationtosubordinates
 Makecontributiontoproductionplanningandmakesurethattheproductionplanisupto date.

7
 Monitoring maintainedandprocessedorderinformation,whichtransferredbetweenhead officeandthe
factory
 Executerawmaterialsbookingsandfollow-ups.
 Followupandgetit donesamplesfromsampleroomwiththehelpofthecoordinator.
 Understandthegeneral/ technicalproblemsinthefactory,customerrequirementsandget buyer'sapprovals
whereeverpossible.
FinanceandAccounts(DGM)
 DirectlyreporttotheDirector.
 Closeco-ordinationwithManagingDirector.
 Responsibleforexecutionfundsandmaintainrelevantdocumentation.
 Maintain salarysheetsandfollow upcashrequirementsandorganizefundsforcompany needs.
 Handleallkindofbankingaffairs.
 ProduceManagementreportswithregardstocompanyfinanceGeneralManager(Purchase &Inventory)
 Co-ordinatewithMerchandisingManager.
 Responsibleforbusinessdevelopment/ developnewsuppliersourcesandcostcontrol.
 Frequentmarketresearchandupdatemanagementandrelateddepartmentsonthe currenttrendsin
themarket.
 Generateinnovationtotheorganization.
 Followupcurrentcustomersandongoingorders.
 Co-operatewith customersandmaketheirrequirementsunderstandtothesubordinates andrelated
departments.
 Understandthegeneral/ technicalproblemsinthefactory;convincecustomersandget customers
approvalswhereeverispossibleoncompanyinterest.
 Findbusinessforsurplusgoods.
 Prepareandmaintainmanagementreports.
GeneralManager (HR& Compliance)
 DirectlyreportingtoDirector.
 Co-ordinatewiththeentiredepartmentalinchargesandalltheworkersinthefactory
 Responsibletomonitor,
 Factorytiming
 Disciplineandcleanliness
 Attendance,leaveandholydays
 Securityandmaintenanceofthefactory
 Transportationanditsmaintenance
 Wagers,overtimepay,allowancesandother payments.
 Donecessaryformalitiesduringnewrecruitmentorterminations.Manager(IE& Planning)
 DirectlyreportingtotheDirector.
 DirectlyreportingtotheMDSirabouttheoverallsituationofthefactory
 SamplebreakdownandSMV establish.
 DiscussionwithGM(Production)aboutlosttimeandbottleneck.
 Co-ordinationwithHRdepartmentabouttheworkersrecruitment.SeniorMerchandiser

8
 ReportdirectlytoManagerMerchandising.
 Maintain andprocessinformationreceivedfrombuyersandbuyingofficesandprocess andtransfers
thembetweenheadofficeandfactory.
 Followuponneworderconfirmationsandbookrawmaterialsaccordingly.
 Helptoupdatetheproductionplan.ProductionManager
 DirectlyreportingtoGeneralManager.
 ResponsibletoGM,operations.
 Co-ordinatewithQualityManager,Cuttingmanager,Finishing&Store
Inventory Manager
 DirectlyreportingtoGeneralManager.
 ResponsibletoMerchandisingManager.
 Co-ordinatewithproductionCo-coordinator.
 Responsibletofollowupproductionplanningandalltherawmaterialrequirements.
 Maintain inventory/ storingsystem/ documentationandprovideinformationtoprepare statistics
 Stockcontrollingandkeepmanagementinformasandwhen required.
Quality ControlIn-charge
 ReportingtoQualityManager
 ResponsibletoDirectoroperations
 Co-ordinatewithproduction,knitting,linking,trimming,mendingandfinishingIn-Charges andSupervisors
 ResponsibletofollowupinstructionsgivenbyQualityManagerandDirector operations.
 MonitortheworkdonebyQualityCheckers.
 Makesurethequalityismaintainedatbuyer'srequiredstandardandmaintainedcompany qualitysystem.
 Maintain relevantpaperwork.HumanResources&Welfareofficer
 ReportingtoGeneralManager
 Co-ordinatewithalldepartmentheadsintheorganization.
 Responsibletomonitortraining,cleanliness,healthandsafety,meals,picnics,welfarefund andallother
welfareaffairs.
Complianceofficer
 ReportingtoHR&Welfareofficer
 ResponsibletoGeneralManager

9
 Co-ordinatewithalldepartmentheadsintheorganization.
 Responsibletomonitorsystemmanagement,health&safetyandallothercompliance affairs.
HRofficer
 DirectlyreportingtoAdministrationManager
 ResponsibletoGeneralManager
 Co-ordinatewiththeentiredepartmentinchargesandalltheworkersinthefactory.
 Responsibletomonitor,
 Factorytiming.
 Disciplineandcleanliness.
 Attendance,leaveandholydays.
 Securityandmaintenanceofthefactory.
 Transportationanditsmaintenance.
 Wagers,overtimepay,allowancesandother payments.
 Donecessaryformalitiesduringnewrecruitmentor terminations.
AccountsExecutive
 ReportingtoFinance&AccountsManager.
 Responsibletomaintainallthebooksandpaperworkwithregardstocompanyaccounts.
 Prepareandmaintainsalarysheets.
 Followupday-to-daycashrequirementandhandledfunds.
 Preparemanagementreports.
SecurityIn-charge
 ReportingtoDept.GeneralManager
 Responsibletomonitoralltheactivitiesofsecurityofficers,conductsecurityactivitiesand makesurethe
totalpremisesarecompletelysafeand secured.
 Shouldconductregularsecurityinspectionsinthepremisesbothdayandnight
 Maintain recordsofallincomingsandoutgoinggoods,personalandvehicles.
 Providetrainingtosecuritystaff.SecurityGuard
 ReportingtoSecurityIn-charge.
 ResponsibletoSecurityManager.
 Conductsecurityactivitiesandmakesurethetotalpremiseiscompletelysafeand secured.
 Shouldbeconductregularsecurityinspectionsinbothdayandnight.
 Maintain allsecurityrecords.TimeKeeper
 ReportingtoAdministrationManager
 Responsibletomaintainthetimerecordofalltheemployees.
 Maintain timecardinorder.SewingSupervisor
 DirectlyreportingtoFinishingIn-Charge.
 ResponsibletoAssistantProductionManager.
 Co-ordinatewithfinishingSupervisor.
 Responsibleforalllabeling.
 Monitoring workofalltheworkers.
 Maintain needlepolicyandsafety.

10
Sewingoperators
 ReportingtoSewingSupervisor.
 ResponsibletoFinishingIn-Charge.
 Dutiestodosewingwithoptimumquality.
 Maintain cleanlinessandsafety.IroningSupervisor
 DirectlyreportingtoFinishingIn-Charge
 ResponsibletoAssistantProductionManager
 Co-ordinatewithWashingIn-Charge
 Responsibleforallfinishingactivities
 Motivatesubordinates.Ironman
 ReportingtoIroningSupervisor
 ResponsibletoFinishingIn-charge
 Dutiestodoironingwithoptimumquality.
 Maintain cleanlinessandsafety.PackingSupervisor
 ReportingtoFinishingIn-Charge
 ResponsibleforAssistantProductionManager
 Co-ordinatewithIroningSupervisorandSewingSupervisor.
 Responsibleforbestqualitygoods.
 Monitoring workofalltheworkers.
 Motivatesubordinates.

11
Chapter Three: Machineries
GarmentsMachineries
SIno. Nameof the m/c Noof m/c Brand/origin
01 StraightKnifem/c 10 Mack-Japan
02 BandKnifem/c 02 OSHMAKK,Taiwan
03 Layspreadingm/c 02 Eastman
04 Sampleprintheatingm/c 02 Speedcutter,Japan
05 SingleNeedleLockStitch 200 Brother,Japan
06 overlockm/c 200 Pegasus,Japan
07 FlatLockm/c 80 Pegasus,Japan
08 Feedofthearm 02 Japan
09 Snpbuttonm/c 16 Prime
10 Buttonholem/c 20 Brother,Japan
11 Buttonattachingm/c 12 Brother,Japan
12 Backtapem/c 22 Pegasus,Japan
13 onestopZikm/c 22 Brother,Japan
14 Threadsuckingm/c 20 oSHIMA
15 ThreadRe-Conm/c 08 oSHIMA
16 SpotRemovingm/c 16 oSHIMA
17 MetalDetector 07 Hasima
18 IronVacuumtable 90 Hasima
19 BartakeM/c 20 Brother,Japan
20 RibCutter 18 OSHMAKK,Taiwan
21 Cylinderbedm/c 40 Brother,Japan
22 Lockstitchtwoneedle 05 Brother,Japan
23 Ironm/c 90 OSHIMA
24 Handtagm/c 60 Japan
25 Handdrym/c 120 Brother,Japan

12
Knitting Machineries:
MachineType:SingleJersey
SL MCNo. DIA-GG-F BRAND TYPE
1 A-1 36"24-108 JiunnLong openWidth
3 A-3 36"24-108 Masa openWidth
1 B-1 34"24-102 JiunnLong openWidth
4 B-4 34"24-102 Masa openWidth
1 D-1 26"24-104 KingKnit Tube
2 D-2 26"24-104 QuanTex Tube
3 D-3 26"24-78 Masa Tube
4 D-4 28"24-84 Masa Tube
5 D-5 28"24-84 Masa Tube
6 D-6 28"24-112 JiunnLong Tube
7 D-7 30'24-72 Santec Tube
EUROTEXKNITWEARLTD

13
8 D-8 30"24-90 Masa Tube
9 D-9 30"20-90 Masa Tube
10 D-10 30"24-90 Masa Tube
MachineType:Rib& Inter Lock(DoubleJersey)
1 G-1 34"24-102 Jiunn Long Tube
4 G-4 36"24-108 Jiunn long Tube
7 G-7 38"24/22/18-72 Jiunn Long Tube
12 G-12 40"24/22/18-84 Jiunn Long Tube
MachineType:RibJersey(Double Jersey)
1 F-1 20"24-80 Jiunn LongTube
3 F-3 30"18-54 Terrot Tube
4 F-4 32"18-66 Masa Tube

14
MachineType:Rib& Inter Lock&S/J
1 H-1 42"24-252 Masa Tube
2 H-2 36"20/18-84 Jiunn LongTube
3 H-3 38"16-72 Jiunn LongTube
5 H-5 36"18/16-72 Jiunn LongTube
11 H-11 38"24-48 Fukuhara Tube
12 H-12 38"24-48 Fukuhara Tube
13 H-13 33-18/24-48 Fukuhara Tube

15
MachineType:SingleJersey(Relaknit:4.0/3.2ll)
1 R-1 38"24-123 Mayer&Cie Tube
MachineType:Plain S/J& Fleece
1 P-1 30"24-60 Sanda Tube
Laboratory Machineries
SIno. Nameofthem/c Noofm/c origin Brand
01 SpectroPhotoMeter 01 U.S.A GretagM/C
02 LabDyeingM/C 01 Taiwan IrdyerRapid
03 LabDyeingM/C 01 HongKong TungShing
04 GrayScale 01 Japan Shinko
05 LightBox 01 England Verivide
06 WashingMachine 04 Sweden TMS-900
07 TumblingMachine 01 Sweden TK-111S
08 RubbingMachine 02 U.S.A
09 AutodispensingMachine 01 Italy Lawer

16
DyeingMachineries (Sample):
SIno. Nameof
them/c
Noofm/c Noof
Nozzle
Brand origin Capacity
01 Sample
Machin
e
04 01 Fong's Taiwan 40kg
02 Sample
Machin
e
03 Sample
Machin
e
04 Sample
Machin
e
05 Sample
Machin
e
06 Sample
Machin
e
07 Sample
Machin
e

17
Chapter four: Manpower
Total Manpower andSection WiseManpower:
AdministrationDepartment:
SL.No Designation NoofManpower
01 GeneralManager(operation) 01
02 GeneralManager(Admin,RH&Com) 01
03 Adminofficer 01
04 ITManager 01
05 ITofficer 02
06 Welfareofficer 02
07 Doctor 01
08 Nurse 01
09 DayCareGoverness 02
10 TimeKeeper 02
11 Painter 02
12 Peon 13
13 CleaningSupervisor 08
14 Cleaner&Sweeper 45
15 Cook 04
16 MedicalAssistant 01
Total = 87

18
AccountsDepartment
IE& PlanningDepartment
MerchandisingDepartment
01 DeputyGeneralManager 01
02 Asst.GeneralManager 01
03 Manager 01
04 Sr.Merchandising 01
05 Merchandising 04
02 Sr.Accountsofficer(Tax) 01
03 Accountsofficer 04
04 Cashofficer 02
05 Asst.Manager 02
06 Juniorofficer 01
Total = 11
01 Manager 01
02 Asst.Manager 01
03 IEofficer 08
04 Workstudyofficer 08
Total = 18

MaintenanceDepartment
SampleDepartment
19
06 Asst.Merchandising 03
07 TraineeMerchandising 01
Total = 12
02 MechanicalIn-Charge 01
03 Mechanic 08
04 Electrician 03
05 MechanicsHelper 11
Total = 24
01 Manager 01
02 PatternMaster 01
03 SampleCutter 03
04 SampleMan 02
05 CADManager 01
06 CADDesigner 03
07 Q.C(Sewing) 02
08 operator(Sewing) 20
Total = 31

20
SecurityDepartment
Inventory Department
01 GeneralManager 01
02 Asst.StoreManager 03
03 Inventoryofficer 02
04 Asst.Inventoryofficer 02
05 Sr.StoreKeeper 03
06 Storeofficer 03
07 StoreKeeper 12
08 StoreAssistant 08
09 TallyManIncharge 01
10 TallyMan 08
Total = 43
02 Manager 01
03 Securityofficer 01
04 SecuritySupervisor 02
05 FireMan 08
06 SecurityGuard 38
07 Driver 08
Total = 59

ProductionDepartment
CuttingDepartment
21
01 CuttingManager 01
02 CuttingIn-charge 05
03 CuttingSupervisor 05
04 CuttingMan 25
05 StickerMan 06
06 CuttingInspection 45
07 MarkerMan 05
08 LayMan 120
09 Loader 28
Total = 241
01 GeneralManager 01
02 ProductionManager 05
03 FloorIn-charge 15
04 ProductionCo-ordinator 02
05 Supervisor 22
06 InputMan 15
07 operator 600
08 Helper 250
09 CountMan 15
10 QualityControlMan 120
Total = 935

22
PrintingDepartment
QualityDepartment
01 DeputyManager 01
02 Manager 01
03 Asst.manager 01
04 In-charge 04
05 QualityController 26
06 CheckSupervisor 39
Total = 72
01 PrintingManager 01
02 In-charge 02
03 ColorMuster 01
04 Invigilator 08
05 Supervisor 04
06 QC 15
07 CheckMan 25
08 Printer 38
09 BundleCountMan 12
10 Cleaner 12
11 Helper 200
12 ExposeMan 2
13 Loader 11
Total = 331

23
FinishingDepartment
Chapter Five: RawMaterials
Yarn
Therawmaterialforknittingistheyarn.Differenttypesofyarnofwiderangeofdifferentcountare used.Bothcarded
andcombedyarnisusedfor knitting.
Generallyusedyarn andtheir count:
YarnType Count
Cotton 24s,26s,28s,30s,32s,34s,40s
Polyster 75D,100D
SpandexYarn 20D,40D,70D
GreyMelange 24s,26s
PC(65%polyster&35%cotton) 24s,26s,28s,30s
CVC 24s,26s,28s,30s
01 FinishingManager 01
02 FinishingIn-charge 02
03 FinishingSupervisor 08
04 IronMan 90
05 Foldingman 35
06 Polyman 35
07 Packerman 15
08 Helper 15
Total = 201

24
Fabric:
EurotexKnitwearLtd.isaknitcompositetextileindustry.Intheindustryfabricisusedasraw materialindyeing-
GreyFabrics:
Followingtypes of grayfabricsare dyed:
 Singlejersey
 Singlejerseywith lycra
 Polopique
 Singlelacoste
 Fleece
 Interlock
 Interlockwithlycra
 Rib
 Ribwithlycra
 1Χ1rib
 2Χ2rib
 6X2rib
 Sugarrib
 Regulardropneedle
 Irregulardropneedle
 Differenttypesofcollar&cuff
Chemicals:
ListofChemicalsusedinCottonClub(BD)Ltd.isasfollows-
BasicChemicals:
1. AceticAcid
2. HydrochloricAcid
3. SulphuricAcid
4. Causticsoda
5. Formicacid
6. Bleachingpowder
Detergent & Scouringagent:
1. SUNMoRLCK-2
2. AssistB26f/SL2F(CK)

25
LevellingAgent:
1. Neocrystal-200BF
2. LevagalDLP
Sequestering Agent:
1. Neocristal150
2. Neocristal-DMBF
3. NoBLEACHN(Multi-function)
Salt:
1. GlauberSalt
2. CommonSalt
WhiteningAgent :
1. SynoWhiteBYB
2. SynoWhite4BK
Softener:
1. SapamineFPG
2. Aleamine-CWS
3. NecipolePR99
4. Gramazin-E2R
FixingAgent :
1. NeofixRP70
2. Neofix-R-250
3. AlbafixECo
ReducingAgent :
1. Hydrose
2. Caustic
3. ViscoColor
4. ViscoBleah
BleachingAgent :

26
1. (50%)H2o2
Enzyme:
1. RetrocellPLX
2. BIo-C35
Stabilizer:
1. NobleachN(Multi-function)
2. NeoratePH55NF
3. NeoratePH150
AnticreasingAgent :
1. TexportGL500
2. TexportD-6003.AC-200
PHController:
1. AceticAcid
2. FormicAcid
3. SodaAsh
4. Caustic
5. InvatexAC
Per-oxideKiller :
1.CroaksNF
Antifoaming agent:
1.AlbatexFFC
Dyes :
EurotexKnitwarsltdusesthefollowing dyes-
1.Sumifix
2.Boductive
3.Ciba
4.Livafix
5.Terafix

27
Remarks:
Asqualityistheprimeconcernofthefactory,qualitativerawmaterialsarealwaysboughtbythe managementofthe
factory.Besides,thereisenoughspacetokeepthoserawmaterialsinthe factory.
ChapterSix:Knitting section
ProcessFlowchart of Knitting:
Yarninconeform Feeding
theyarnconeinthecreel
Feedingtheyarninthefeederviatrip-tapepositivefeedingarrangement AndTension
device.
Knitting
Withdrawtherolled fabricandweighting
Inspection
Numbering

28
Partsof knittingMachines:
Creel :Creelisusedtoplacetheconeofyarn.
Feeder :Feederisusedtofeedtheyarntomakeafabric.
Tensioningdevice :Tensioningdeviceisusedtogivepropertensiontotheyarn.
VDQpulley :VDQpulleyisusedtocontroltheGSMbycontrollingthestitchlength. Guide
:Guideisusedtoguidetheyarn.
Sensor :Sensorisusedtoseen&themachinestopswhenanyproblemoccurs. Spreader
:Spreaderisusedtospreadtheknittedfabricbeforetakeuproller.
Takeuproller :Takeuproller isusedtotakeupthefabric
Fixationfeeder :ThesetypesoffeederareusedinElectricalAutoStriperKnittingMachine
tofeedtheyarnatspecificfinger.
Rethom :ThesedeviseareusedinElectricalAutoStriperKnitting machine
DesignDevelopmentby usingCAM:
ThetypeoffabrictoproducedependsonthesettingoftheCamofKnittingmachine.Thedifferent typesoffabriccan
beproducedbyonlychangingthecamsetting.Thecamsettingstoproduce differentfabricaregivenbelow:
Singlejersey:
onlyknitcamsareusedtoproducesinglejerseyfabric.Sothesettingwouldbe- K
K K
K K K
K K K
Inter lock:
Interlockfabricisproducedbyusingknitandmisscam.Sothesettingwouldbe- K
M K
M K M
Lacost:
Lacostusesknitandtuckcamlike-

29
K K T K K
T K K K T
Frenchterry:
Thecamsettingisasfollows-
K M K M K M
K T K M K T
K M K T K M
Consideredpoint of Knitting:
Whenabuyerordersforfabricthentheymentionsomepointsrelatedtoproductionandquality. Beforeproduction
ofknittedfabric,thesefactorsareneededtoconsider.Thoseareasfollows-
 FinishedG.S.M.
 TypeofFabricordesignofFabric.
 Yarncount
 Typesofyarn(combedorcarded)
 Diameterofthefabric.
 Stitchlength
 Colordepth.
Endproducts of circular knittingmachine:
SingleJersey M/C:
a) S/JPlain
b) SingleLacoste
c) DoubleLacoste
d) Singlepique
e) Doublepique
f) Terry
RibM/C:
a)1×1Ribfabric

30
b) 2×2Ribfabric
c) Honeycomb
Endproductof Flatbed knittingmachine:
a) Collar
b) Cuff
ProductionCalculation:
A. Production/shiftin kgat 100%efficiency
RPM*No. ofFeeder×No.ofNeedle×SL(mm)
=
3527.80×Yarncount
B. Production/shiftinmeter
Course/min
Course/cm
RPM×No.ofFeeder×6012×Efficiency
Course/cm×100
C. Fabricwidth in meter:
Totalno.ofwales
Wales/cm×100
Totalno.ofneedlesusedinknitting
Wales/cm×100
D. Needlecalculation
ForCircularknitting machine:
DiameteroftheMachineXGaugeoftheMachineX3.14

31
Forexample:Diameterofthemachineis18”andGaugeofthemachineis24.Thenthenumber ofNeedlesonthe
machinewouldbe-
18X24X3.14=1356
ForFlatBedknitting machine:
LengthoftheMachineneedlebedXGaugeoftheMachineForexample:
Lengthofthemachineneedlebedis56”andGaugeofthemachineis14.Thenthenumberof Needlesonthe
machinewouldbe-
56X14=1568
Faultsof Knitting:
1. HoleMark
Causes:
 Holesaretheresultsofyarnbreakageoryarncracks.
 Duringloopformationtheyarnbreaksintherejoinoftheneedlehook.
 If theyarncountisnotcorrectonregardingstructure,gauge,courseand density.
 Badlyknotorsplicing.
 Yarnfeederbadlyset.
Remedies:
 Yarnstrengthmustbesufficienttowithstandthestretchaswell asuniform.
 Usepropercountofyarn.
 Correctlysetofyarnfeeder.
 Knotshouldbegivenproperly.
1. NeedleMark
Causes:
 Whenaneedlebreaksdownthenneedlemarkcomesalongthe fabrics.
 If aneedleorneedlehookisslightlybendsthenneedlemarkcomesonthe fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needleshouldbestraightaswellasfrombroken latch.
1. SinkerMark
Causes:

32
 Whensinkercorrodeduetoabrasionthensometimescannotholdanew loopasa
resultsinkermarkcomes.
 If sinkerheadbendthensinkermarkcomes.
Remedies:
 Sinkershouldbechanged.
4. Star
Causes:
 Yarntensionvariationduringproduction.
 Bucklingoftheneedlelatch.
 LowG.S.Mfabricproduction.
Remedies:
 Maintain sameYarntensionduringproduction.
 Usegoodconditionedneedles.
4. DropStitches
Causes:
 Defectiveneedle.
 If yarnisnotproperlyfedduringloopformationi.e.notproperlylaidonto theneedle
hook.
 Take-downmechanismtooloose.
 Insufficientyarntension.
 Badlysetyarnfeeder.
Remedies:
 Needleshouldbestraight&well.
 Properfeedingofyarnduringloopformation.
 Correcttakeupofthefabric&correctfabrictension.
 Yarntensionshouldbeproperly.
4. oilstain
Causes:
 Whenoil lickthroughtheneedletrickthenit passonthefabricsandmakealine.
Remedies:
 Ensurethatoil doesnotpassonthefabrics.
 Wellmaintenanceaswellasproperoiling.
7. Ruststain
Causes:
 If anyrustonthemachineparts.
Remedies:
 If anyrustonthemachinepartsthencleanit.
 Propermaintenanceaswellasproperoiling.

33
8. Pinhole
Causes:
 Duetobreakdownorbendofthelatch,pinholemaycomeinthefabric.
Remedies:
 Changetheneedle
9. Greasestain
Causes:
 Impropergreasing
 Excessgreasing
Remedies:
 Propergreasingaswellaspropermaintenance
9. Clothfall-out
Causes:
 Clothfall-outcanoccurafteradropstitchespeciallywhenanemptyneedle withanempty
needlewithclosedlatchrunsintotheyarnfeederand removetheyarnoutofthehookof
thefollowingneedles.
Remedies:
Makesureallthelatchesofneedleareclosedwithfeedingyarnafteradrop stitch.
9. Barre:
Afaultinweftknittedfabricappearingaslightordarkcoursewise(widthwise)Stripe. Causes:
 Thisfaultcomesfromyarnfault.
 If differentmicronearvalueoffibercontentinyarn.
 Differentlusture,dyeaffinityoffibercontentinyarn.
 Duringspinningdifferentsimilarclassesoffiberismixedspeciallyincarded yarn&these
fibershavesimilar characteristics.
 Indrawfamedifferentsimilarclassessliverismixedandmakeonesliver
Remedies:
 Wecanusethisfabricinwhitecolor.
12. Flydust:
Causes:
 Inknittingsectiontoomuchlintisflyingtoandfrothatarecreatedfrom yarndueto
lowtwistaswell asyarnfriction.Thislintmayadhereor attachestothefabricsurface
tightlyduringknitfabricproduction.
Remedies:
 Blowingairforcleaninganddifferentpartsafteracertainperiodoftime.
 Bycleaningthefloorcontinuously.
 Byusingductingsystemforcleaningtoomuchlintinthefloor.
 overallensurethatlintdoesnotattachtothefabric.

34
13. Yarncontamination
Causes:
 If yarncontainsforeignfiberthenitremainsinthefabricevenafterfinishing,
 If lot,countmixingoccurs.
Remedies:
 Byavoidinglot,countmixing.
 Faultlessspinning.
13. YarnFaults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarncountvariations.
 Thick/Thinplaceinyarn.
 Hairiness
Flat Knitting MachinesFault:
1. Holes:
Causes:
 NeedleBreak,
 HighTensiononTensioner,
 Excesscottonwithyarnonneedle.
2. MissingNeedle:
Causes:
 FaultyNeedle,
 FaultyCamsetting.
3. oilmark:
Causes:
 ImproperoilingonMachine.
 Inexperiencedoperator
4. LoopMiss:
Causes:
 Tensionontakeuproller,
 Needlemiss.

35
ChapterSeven:Batchingsection
Batchprocessflow chart:
FlowprocesschartofBatchingSectionofEurotexKnitwearLtd.
FabricReceived
↓
Inspection
↓
FabricDividedaccordingtoDiameter
↓
SupervisorbatchesthefabricaccordingtoquantitybyCalculation
↓
SentforDyeing
Greyfabric inspection
ThebatchsectionoftheEurotexKnitwearsLtd.inspectsthefollowingparametersofthereceived fabric-
 KnittingHole
 oilSpot
 Tara
 ShadeUP
 StarMark
 Patta
 Lackout

36
BatchCalculation:
BatchQuantity(M/CQuantity) Total
QuantityXDiameterquantity
Equation for RopeLength:
DiameterQuantity(WeightofFabricinaroll)X39.37X1000Finished
GSM/ FinishedopenDiameter
Batchmanagement:
Primarilybatchingisdonebydyeingmanagertakingtheabovecriteriaunderconsideration.Batch sectionincharge
receivesthisprimarybatchplanfromdyeingmanager.Sometimeplanningis adjustedaccordingtom/cconditionor
emergency.
Machinesin batchsection:
NoofMachine: 06
AirTurningMachineMachineName:
origin : KoREA
Remarks:
Thebatchsectionofthefactoryiswell equippedbutit lacksinaqualitycontroller.

37
Chapter Eight: Labsection
Labdip:
Labdipisaprocessbywhichbuyerssuppliedswatchismatchedwiththevaryingdyespercentagein thelaboratorywith
orwithouthelpof“DATACoLoR”
Labdipplaysanimportantroleinshadematching&anddetachingthecharacteristicsofthedyes andchemicalsareto
beusedinthelargescaleofproductionsothisisanimportanttaskbeforebulk production.
Objectiveof Labdip
Themainobjectivesinlabareasfollows:
 Tocalculatetherecipeforsampledyeing.
 TocomparedyedsamplewithswatchbylightBoxor spectroflash.
 Tocalculatereviserecipeforsampledyeing.
 Finallyapprovedlabdip(Grade:ABC)
Theresponsibilities of the laboratoryare:
 Samplepreparationaccordingtobuyerrequirement
 Differentpropertiestest(Washfastness,Colorfastness,rubbingfastness, Perspiration
Test,Pilling Testetc.)
 StrengthtestofDyestuff
 Chlorinetest,Peroxidetest
 ProductDevelopmentetc.

38
Laboratory work sequence:
Samplereceived(Fabrics)
↓
Check&notetheLotno,Styleno,Itemno&Collar
↓
SamplePreparation
↓
Runthetest
↓
Physicaltest Wetlab
ColorFastnesstowash ColorFastnesstowashing
Pilling
Crocking
Pre-productionSample Finalsample
Evaluatethesample
Test Test
ReportMaking
Preparedthereport Preparedthereport
Pass Fail
Pass Fail Pass Fail
Deliver Refinish
Needtotestagain Refinish

39
LabDyeing processfollow up :
ThelaboratorydyeingprocessofEurotexKnitwearLtd.isasfollow:
SampleReceived
↓
StandardischeckedwiththeReferencefromtheinventory
↓
If matchedthensamplepreparedfromthatrecipe
↓
If notmatchedthanthecolorpercentageiscalculatedbyusingDataColor
↓
RecipePrepared
↓
Samplepreparedaccordingto recipe
↓
Standard(FromBuyer)andSamplepreparedis Compared
↓
If okaythenthesampleissenttoBuyer
↓
Buyerapprovesthesampleandorderforthebulkproduction.
SampleReceived:
Buyersendsasamplewhichisconsideredasstandardinwholeprocess.Buyeralsogivessomerequirements
aboutthepropertiesofthestandardfabric.Forexample,Buyerwantsgoodwash fastness,lightfastness,rubbing
fastness,pillingformationetc.Thelabreceivesthisstandardto makethisfabricaccordingtobuyerrequirements.
Standardischeckedwith the Referencefrom the inventory:
Thefactorydyedalotoffabricinitsrunningyears.It alsostoresalotofsampleinitsinventory.The standardisfirst
checkedwiththesampleskeptintheinventory.

40
If matchedthen samplepreparedfrom that recipe:
If thestandardismatchedwiththesampleofinventorythenthenextprocessbecomeseasier. Becauseafter
matchingthesamplewithstandardpreviouslymaintainedrecipeisfollowed. If the sampledoesnotmatchwiththe
standardthentheprocessgoestodatacolor.
If not matchedthan the colorpercentage iscalculatedbyusingData
Color:
If thestandarddoesnotmatchwiththesamplesofinventory,thenthestandardpercentageofcolor isfoundoutfrom
thedatacolormachine.
RecipePrepared:
Accordingtotheresultsofdatacolormachinetherecipeispreparedtogetthedesiredsampleof thatstandard.
Samplepreparedaccordingto recipe:
Followingtheprocedurethesampleisprepared.
Standard(FromBuyer) andSamplepreparedis Compared:
Aftergettingthesampleiscomparedwiththestandard.Andseveraltestsaredonetomeetthe buyer
requirement.
If okaythen the sampleissentto Buyer:
Sampleisthensenttothebuyerforthefinalapproval.
Buyerapprovesthe sampleandorder for the bulk production:
Whenbuyergivesthefinalapprovalthefabricissenttoproductionfloorforthebulk production.
Properties test
Colorfastnessto rubbing(wet & dry):
Procedure:
Firstlyasampleof size(14×5)cmistakenatWales&Coursewise.Thecrockingclothis putonto thefinger&is
stagedbyfingerclip&run10timesin10secondsmanually&assessesthecrocking clothwithgrayscale.
Thecrockingclothisplacedonthewater,it will sucksomewaterandcrockingclothisthen squeezed.Thenplace
thewetrubbingclothontothefingerandstagwithfingerclipandrun 10

41
timesin10secondsmanually.Thecrockingisthenassessedclothbygrayscaleforwetrubbing.Wet anddryrubbing
arecheckedaccordingtobuyer’s requirement.
Colorfastnessto washing.(ISO/05-CO6):
Procedure:
1.Sizeofspecimen:Sample&multifibreat(10×2)cmthenstitch.
2.Detergent:4g/lECEdetergent(WoB)+1g/lsodiumperborateputindistilled water& cooledat20°C&
measuredPH(wherenecessary).
Steelballs AdjustpH
25 10.5±1
3. theprogramisruninthefollowing way:-
Testno. Temp°C Liq.volumemlTimemin. C2S
60°C 50 30
4. Thesampleisrinsedtwicewithcoldwater.
5.At60°Cbyhangingorbyflatironpressingthedriedbuttemperatureshouldnotless more
than150°C.6.
Pillingtest:
Procedure:
Thefabric12.5x12.5cmiscut&balancedmarkshouldbe10cmbyusingtemplate.Thenthefabric issewnsothatit
canbefirmlyfitinthetubeamouldedpolyurethanetubes.Thenfourtubesare placedinabox&started60±2rev/min
for5hrsoraccordingtobuyerrequirement.Thenthefabric isassessedbyputtingtestedspecimenonthecabinet&
comparedwithstandard photographs.
Shrinkage&Spiralitytest
Buyer’srequirements
Templatesize:
50cm&35cm,25.5cm&18cm(useafterquick wash).
Shrinkage:
Lengthwise-------5%
Widthwise--------5%
Spirality:Left-----5%
Right---------------5%

42
Procedure:
Firstlytwoplyoffabricistaken&putthetemplate(50cm)ontothefabric.Thetemplatehas8 holes.Bothlength&
widthwisethetemplateholescanmeasure35cmat3places.Then8holesare markedbypermanentmarker&alsoat
theedgesofthe template.
Thefabricissewn&it isgiventothewashingm/cforrunat60°Cfor60minuteswithwater.After thatthesampleis
dried&thenfabricismeasured.
Calculation:
 ShrinkageTest:
Lengthwise:
Afterwash– Beforewash=----------------------------------×100Beforewash
Width wise:
Afterwash– Beforewash=----------------------------------×100Beforewash
 Spiralitytest:
((Leftside+Rightside))×100%
Length(widthforH&M)
 Dyestuff Strength test:
Dyestuffstrengthtestisveryimportantforanytextiledyeingindustry.
Adyecomestoindustrythenasamplefabricisdyedfirsttomakeit areference.Whenthatdyeis usedandfinishedfrom
inventory,newdyeisordered.Butit isnotsurethedyethatreachednewly, will makeafabricasmuchdyedasbefore.
Thatiswhyafterarrivingofdyetothefactoryit isusedto makeasample.Thenthisnewlymadesampleischeckedin
respectofpreviouslydyedsample.If the twosamplesmatchwitheachother,it isresultedthatthestrengthisokay.Butif
notmatchthenthe amounttobegiven(lessormore)isdetermined.
Thusthestrengthofdyestuffismeasuredinthisway.
Remarks:
Thelaboratoryofthefactoryiswellenoughtomakequalityproducts.Butmoreattentionto laboratoryisrequiredto
makeit moreefficient.Theinformation’sthatlacksaboutlaboratoryinthis reportisjusttheresultoftheunavailabilityof
timeofthedepart.

43
Chapter Nine: Dyeingsection
Cellulose:
Whenallimpuritieshavebeenremovedfromthenaturalcottonfiber,cellulose remains.
Cellulosehasanempiricalformulaof(C6H10O5)n.purecelluloseisawhitesubstancewithaspecific gravityof1.5.It
burnsfreelyinairwithaluminoussmokelessflame.Celluloseisinsolubleinwater andalkalisbutdissolvesincold
concentratedsulfuricacid.Likeothercarbohydrates,whenheated withconcentratedsulfuricacidit swellsup,forminga
massofcarbon.It isalsoattackby hydrochloricacidnitricacids.
Whenhydrolyzedwithdiluteacidsanalmosttheoreticalyieldofglucoseisobtained.Thisindicates thatcelluloseisa
long-chain polymer produced by linking together a large number of glucose units. Starch and glycogen are also
polymersofglucosebuttheyhavenofiber formingattributes.
Fromtheforegoingit will beapparentthatcelluloseisapolymerofglucose,andit mustcontainalargenumberof–
CH2oHand>CHOHgroups.
Therepeatingunitinthecottonpolymeriscellobiose,whichconsistsoftwoglucoseunits. Cellobioseishydrolyzedby
theenzymeemulsion,whichit isknown,will onlybreakdownlinks betweenbetaglucosemolecules.Cellobiose
consistsoftwobetaglucosemoleculeslinkedtogether atthe1:4carbonatoms.
Themostimportantchemicalgroupingonthecottonpolymeristhehydroxylgroupsor-oHgroups. Thesearealso
presentasmethylolgroupsor– CH2OH.Theirpolaritygivesrisetohydrogenbonds betweenthe– OHgroupsof
adjacentcottonpolymers.VanderWaal’sforcesalsooccurbut comparedwiththehydrogenbonds,theVander
Waal’sforcesareoflittle significance.
Chemicalcompositionof raw cotton:
Component Mainlocation Relativeamount
Cellulose Secondarywall 86.8%
OilandWax Cuticle 0.70%
Pectins Primarycellwall 1.0%
Carbohydrates Primarycellwall 0.50%
Protein Lumen 1.2%
Salts Lumen 1.0%
Water Whole 6.8%
Others 2.0%

44
Classesof dyeson the basisof suitability of dyeing different fibers:
Sl.no Nameofdyes SuitableforFibers
01 Aciddyes Wool,silkandNylon
02 Basicdyes Nylon,Acrylic,AcetateRayon,Silk,Wool
andJute
03 Directdyes Cotton,ViscoseRayon,Linen,Nylon, Wool
andSilk
04 Azoicdyes Cotton,ViscoseandLinen.
05 Vatdyes Cotton,ViscoseandLinen.
06 Sulpherdyers Cotton,ViscoseandLinen.
07 Reactivedyes Cotton,Viscose,Linen,Wool,SilkandNylon.
08 Dispersedyes Polyester,Nylon,Acrylic,AcetateRayonand
TriacetateRayon.
Theoryof ReactiveDyeing:
Reactivedyesarecoloredcompoundsandtheonlyclassofdyesthatformcovalentbondsbetween thedyemolecules
andthefibers.Thedyecontainreactivegroupwhichreactwiththefiberand makecovalentbondwiththefibersinthe
alkalineconditionandactasanintegralpartofthefiberis calledreactivedye.Reactivedyesmaybeusedforcoloration
ofcelluloseandproteinfibersandthis isthemostimportantclassofdyesfordyeingandprintingofcellulosicfiber.
Structural characteristics of ReactiveDye:
Characteristicsstructuralfeaturesofreactivedyesareasfollows ---
D–B– R– X
Where,
D=Dyepart
B=Bridginggroup
R=Reactivegroupbearingpart X=
Reactivegroup.

45
Dyeingmechanism is completed by threestages-
 Exhaustionofdyeinthepresenceofelectrolyte
 Fixationofdyeunderalkalinecondition
 Washoftheunfixeddyefrommaterialsurface
Exhaustion:
whenthefabricisimmersedinthedyeliquoranelectrolyteisaddedtoassisttheexhaustionofdye. HereNaClisused
toneutralizethenegativechargeformedonfabricsurface&putsextraenergyto penetratedyemolecules.
Fixation:
fixationofdyemeansthereactionofreactivegroupofdyewiththeterminal-oHgroupoffiber& thusformingstrong
covalentbondwithfiber.Controlledbymaintainingphbyaddingalkali properly.
Washoff:
Asthedyeingiscompletedagoodwashmustbeappliedtoremoveextraorunfixeddyefrom surfaceoffabric&
forleveldyeingit isimportant.
Reactionwith CelluloseFiber
ReactivedyesformedcovalentbondwithcellulosicfiberbyNuclueophilicsubstitutionandaddition reaction.The
reactionsareasfollows ----
Substitutionreaction:
D– R– Cl+Ho-Cell>D– R– o– Cell+HCl
Additionreaction:
D– F– CH2=CH2+Ho– Cell>D– F– CH2– CH2– o– Cell
Reactionwith water:
Thecoldbrandreactivedyesarehighlyreactiveinnature.Theyreactalsowithwaterandget hydrolyzed.The
reactionisasfollows ----
D– R– Cl+HoH>D– R–oH+HCl
Thehydrolyzeddyeisalsocoloredsubstancesandhasverylowsubstantivityforthecellulosicfiber. Sotheyare
attachedwithfibersurfaceafterdyeing.If theydonotwashedawayfromthefiber surfacethefastnesspropertyofthe
fibermustbeverylow.

46
Dyes:
Themoleculesoftheorganiccompoundscalleddyesareresponsibleforthecolorofdyedand printedlesttilefabric
materials.Dyemoleculesarecoloredbecametheyareselectivelyableto absorbedandreflectincidentlight.Dyes
moleculescontainatleastoneofeachoftheradicalscalled chromophoresandauxochromes.
Pretreatment:
Pretreatmentisthepreparationperiodoffabricfrodyeing.Forgettingproperfastnessoffabricand properdyeing
pretreatmentisamandatoryprocess.
Demineralization:
It isaprocessofremovingmineralmaterialsfromthewater.Itisdoneinwatertreatmentplant. Waterfromnatural
sourcescontainsmanymineralmaterialswhichmayhamperthedyeingprocess. If themineralmaterialsarepresentin
waterthenit mayleadtounevenshadeindyeing.Besidesit mayalsodamagethefabricandthe machine.
Scorning:
Theprocesstoremovefats,oil, waxysubstancesandaddedtheimpuritiesbycertainpercentageof alkalitreatment
andwhichincreasetheabsorbingpowerofthetextileunits,iscalledscouring.
Bleaching:
Theprocessbywhichthenaturalcolorofafibercanberemovedandmakethetextilethispure whiteandbrightis
calledBleaching.
Wettingagent:
Thechemicalwhichisusedforquicklymoistenorwateringthetextileunitsiscalledwettingagent.
Detergent:
Detergentarenothingbutachemicalwhichisusedforclearingthetextileunitsortoremovefats,oil andwash.It is
knowassurfaceactiveagent.
Labelingagent:
Thechemicalwhichareusedfordyeingjusttogivelevelshadeorevendyeingiscalledleveling agent.
Enzyme:
It isonekindofbiocatalyst.It isbasedonproblem.It issolubleinwaterbutinsolubleinacidand alkali.Salt:Actad
erectility, helpstoexhaustdyemoleculestothefiber.
Exhaust:
Theabsorptionofdyemoleulesfromthedyeliquorbythefibersbeingdyed.

47
Electrolyte:
Acompoundwhichisaqueoussolutionorinthemotherstate,inductsanelectriccurrentandis simultaneously
decomposedbyit intoinnscompoundswhichdissociateintoinnsand/or radicalsin aqueoussolution.
Hydrolysis:
Thechemicaldecompositionofasubstancebytheactionofwater,thewateritselfbeingalso decomposed.Acids
andalkalisoftencatalyseshydrolysis.Thedestructiveeffectofhydrolysisupon fiberpolymerswill thenalsoresultin
theruptureofinter-polymerforcesofattraction.
Hydrophilic:
Havingastrongaffinityforwater,ormoistureabsorbent
Hydrophobic:
Havinganaversiontowater,non-absorbentorwaterrepellent.
Components:
UponwhichdyeingProcessDepends:
(1) Sulostrate
(2) PH
(3) DyeingAssistant
(4) Temperature
DyeingAssistance:
Theseareaddedindyeingbathforwhichdyeingaffinityisincreasediscalleddyeing asst.
(1) Electrolyte
(2) Levelingagent
(3) Carriers
(4) Solvents
Factorsto beconsideredfor dye& dyeing processselection:
(1) Hue
(2) Shade
(3) Brightness
(4) Cost

48
Topping:
Theapplicationoffurthercolorantnotnecessarilyofthesamehue/classtoadyedsubstancein ordertoadjust
thelathertothedeniedfinalcoloriscalledtopping.
DyeingProcess:
Processflow chartfor 100%Cotton (WhiteColor):
Fabricloading
Demineralization
(Wetting/Detergent+Antricreasing+Deminaralizingagent) [Dosing
time 5mintemp 40C]
Tempraisedat55Co20min
Draining(10-min)/ Deteront/wettingagent+Andricreasingagent+Caustic [Dosingtime
20mintemp-50⁰C×min(Run time]
H2O2(50%)added[70⁰C×min]
Tempraisedat98⁰C×60min M/C
Cooled(tempdrop80⁰C)
Brighteningagentadded
[Do ⁰C×min]
Tempraised98⁰C
Samplecheck

49
Drainwash
Normalhotwash
PHcontrolat4.5(aceticacidlevelingagent) enzyme
wash(55⁰C×60min)
Tempraised80⁰C×10min[enzymekilling] after
treatmentwithacid,levelingagentandsoftener
unload
Note:
(1) Enzymewashhappenedafterbrightenerforminimizingtime.
(2) Therequiredtempforenzymewashin55– 60⁰C.Athightemp(80-82⁰C)theenzyme destroyedduringthe
enzymewashPHmustbe4.5causeinalkalineconditionenzymewashcannot getwell.
(3) Athightemperaturecausticmustbenotuse,otherwisecreatehatesonfabric surface.
(4) Demineralizationhavedoneforremovewaterhardnessandalsoremovegreyfabric hardness.
(5) Draininghavenotdonedirectlyat80⁰Ctoprotectcreasemark.

50
Processflow chartfor100% Cotton(BlackColor):
Fabricloading
Demineralization(60Co10’)(crackingagent+Diminaralizingagent) Tempraised
98Co20minM/C cooledat80C
Drainwash/Rising5min Added
aceticacidforPHcontrolat4.5
Enzymewash
Enzymedosingtime10mintemp55C
Run(10min)
PHCheck(6.9-7)LevellingwithNobleachN(Dosing60Co10min) Salt
dosing(dosingtime30min60Co5min
Colourdosing(withno.bleachN),Dosingtime30min600Co10min Causticadded
(PH=10.5)(Dosingtime-30min600⁰C×10min)
Colorsteam(60⁰C×60min)
Samplecheck
Drainwash,60min Acetic
acid,PH-4.5,30⁰C×20min

51
Normalwash
Ultram350(90⁰C×20min)(Unfixeddyeremove) Disusing
20min
Softener(Dosingtime=10min40⁰C×20min) Unload
thefabric
Note:-
(1)ThisdyeingprocessforanydeepcolorsuchasNavy,Redetc.
(2) Blackoranydeepcolordyeingthereisnoneedscouring& bleaching.
(3)NobleachNorlevelingagentmixedwithdyesforbetterdyefigureorgetbestsolution ofdyefigureand
happeneddyemixingtemnotindye bath.
(4) It thecausticisnotuseinthisprocessthemthecommonsaltandsodaratiowill be 80/20
where20meansamountof soda.
Processflow chartS/JLycra(Cotton 65%+Polyester 35%) ForBlue Color:
Fabricload
Demineralization(Liqonr1:8{50⁰C×1D’}Caustic
{Dosingtime=1Dmin}50⁰C×10min Tempraised70⁰C

52
H2o2(50%)added{d,T=1Dmin70⁰C×10min
Tempraised98⁰C×10minDye
bathcool,80⁰C
Samplecheck
Drainwash
Hotrinsing
Acid,added,PH-4.5
Enzymewash
{dosing550×10min}
Tempraised80Co10min ,ThenDraining
Buttersolutionadded{60⁰C×10min}(PHCheckat4.5) Dispersing
/levelingagentwith sequestering.(60Co10min)
Tempraised80⁰C×min
20grace(20c/ min)tempraisedat130⁰C×40min
20gradetempdropat80⁰Ccheck
Drainin,30min

53
Normalwashwithonlywater(80⁰C×10min)Addedacetic
acid1%
Cottondyeing(PreviousDyeingProcess)
Unload
Note:-
(1) Polyesterfiberorfabriccanbedyeingwithdispersedyeandappliedathight temperatureis,
130-140⁰C.
(2) Dispersedyeshaveasconicgroupsandareinsolublein water.
(3) Withthehelpofadispersingagentdyescanbedispersedinthedye bath.
(4) Reductionclearingisdoneincaseofmediumanddeepshadeonlytoimprovethewash fastness.
(5) Thishightemperatureprocessinnonloxicandhygienicprocess.
(6) Athightemplike130⁰CacidgettingweakersoforgettingPH4.5Buttersolutionisused inpolyesterdyeing
processandit isstrongacidicalongwithdispersingagent.
Somespecial note:-
(1)Polyesterisamanmade,syntheticpolyester,polyesterfilamentorstaplefiber.The mostcommon
polyesterapparelfilamentorfiberisusuallycomposedofpolyester lerephthalatepolyester.
ProcessFlowchartfor Torquescombination(100%Cotton):
Fabricloading
Demineralization{Dosingtime=15min40⁰C×5min}

54
Tempraisedat50⁰C×20thenDraining
Detergent{Dosingtime=5min50⁰C×5}
+multifunctionagent(NobleachN)SDT=5’50⁰C×5’
Caustic{Dosingtime=15min50⁰C×5min Temp
raisedat70⁰C
AddedH2o2(50%){Dosingtime=10min70⁰C×5’}Temp
raisedat98⁰C×min
Samplecheck Draining
&wash(coldwash)
cat(80⁰C×20min)
(H2O2Killer) Draining
wash
Aceticacid{Dosingtime40⁰C×5min}enzyme
wash{55⁰C×60min}
Run60⁰C×20min
afterPHCheckaddedlevelingagent (anticilConz
+SarabidMIP){Dosingtime=10}60⁰C×10’}

55
Colordosing{Dosingtime=30min60⁰C×10min
Tempraisedat75⁰C20grade
Saltadded{Dosingtime20min75Co10min}Temp
droppedat60C
Samplecheck
Sodaashadded{Dosingtime=30min60Co10’
Colorsteam{60Co40min}
(Shadecheck)
Tempraisedat80Co20min
Drainwash
Hotwash(Ultraw350/RBR)
Unloadfabric
Processflow chartfor R(SPL)100%Cotton:-
Fabricload
Wettingagentmultifunctionagent(50⁰C×15’)

56
Caustic+H2O2{D.T=10’50⁰C}
(bleaching)(Sousing)
Temraised98⁰C×60’
Drainwash
Normalhot90⁰C×20’
Naturalization
Aceticacid(90⁰C×20’)
Drainwash
CheckPH-6.8
Levelingwith(Dosingtime=-10’33⁰C×10’ Enzyme
dosing(33⁰C×10’)
Saltadded{D,T=30’(33⁰C×10’)}Dyes
dosing{D,T=30’(33⁰C×10’)}
Sodaadded{1ststep20%2ndstep80%}(D,T=10min)
(R.J=5min)
Tempraised55⁰C×5’

57
colorsteam55⁰C×30min
DrainWash
Soaping1%
(80Co20’)mediumshade90⁰C×20’->darkshadesteam10’
Neutralizationfor20minwithaceticacid
Drainwahs
0.5%CkforHotwash
(60Co20’)Mediumshade80⁰C×10’darkshade)steam10’ Drain
wash
CheckPH,5.2
Softeningwith CWS{D,T=10’40⁰C×20’}Unload
Dyeing faults Causesand Remedies:
Unevendyeing:
Causes:
 UnevenPretreatment
 Improperadditionofcolor
 Improperadditionofchemical
 Usingdyesofhighfixationproperties
 Lesscontrolofdyeingmachine

58
 Lesscirculationtime
Remedies:
 Byensuringevenpre-treatment
 Byproperadditionofcolourandchemicals
 Correctcirculationtime
 Bycontrollingthedyeingmachineproperly
Batchto batchShade variation
Causes:
 Usingimproperdyesandchemicals
 Incorrectpretreatmentprocedure
 Batchtobatchweightvariationoffabric
 Batchtobatchchemicalsanddyesvariation(lot variation)
 Improperdosingofdyesandchemicals
Remedies:
 Byusingstandarddyesand chemicals
 Bycorrectingthepretreatmentprocedure
 Bymaintainingbatchtobatchweightvariation
 Byavoidinglot mixingofdyesandchemicals
 Bycorrectingthedosingtimeofdyesandchemicals
 Byfollowingdifferentdyeingparameter.
Darkcolored spots:
Causes:
 Dyestuffprecipitationduringdyeing
 Incompatibilityofdyestuffusedforproducingcombinedshade
 Toohighdyestuffconcentrationinthedyebath
 Precipitationofunabsorbeddyestuffduringaftertreatment
Remedies:
 Byensuringproperdyeingcondition
 Byselectingproperdyestuff
 Bycheckingthesolubilitylimitofthedyestuffbeforedyeing
 Byensuringproperaftertreatment

59
Patchydyeing:
Causes:
 Duetohardnessof water
 Duetofaultycoloraddition
 Duetofaultyinjectionofalkali
 Duetoimpropersaltaddition
 DuetoimproperPHofsolution
Remedies:
 Byusingpropersequesteringagent
 Bycorrectingthecolor addition
 Bycorrectingthesaltaddition
 Byproperinjectionofalkali
 BymaintainingthePHlevelofthesolution
Creasemark:
Causes:
 Pooropeningofthefabricrope
 Duetohighspeedofmachinerunning
 Unequalpumppressureandreel speed
Remedies:
 Bymaintainingproperpumppressureandreel speed.
 Bycontrollingthespeedofthemachine.
 Correctopeningofthefabricrope.
Rollto roll variation:
Causes:
 Poormigrationpropertyofdye.
 Hardnessofwater.
 Improperdyessolubility.
 Faultymachinespeed.
Remedies:
 Usestandarddyesandchemicals
 Propermachinespeed.
 Usingsoftwaste.
Remarks
ThedyeingprocessofCottonClub(BD)ltd.isverymuchsatisfactory.CottonClubonlycaresfor quality.It isheardfrom
themanagementofthecompany,afterestablishingthefactorytill now,asingleorderisnotcancelled.That’swhyit is
surethatthecompanyiswell enoughtoproducequality fabric.

60
Chapter Ten:Finishing section
Introduction of Finishing
Textilefinishinginvolvestreatingatextilematerialinsuchawaythattheproducthasthedesired propertiesrequiredfor
itsintendeduseandthereforehasgreatmarketvalue.Thedesiredproperties mayincludethefabricdimensionsand
theirstability,itsweight,drape,appearance,softnessand handle,aswellasanyrequiredfunctionalpropertiessuchas
resistancetocreasing,flame,water,oil, dirtorbacteria.Textilefinishingisthereforeanextremelydiversefieldinvolving
anextensiverange ofchemicals.
Thedegreeofpermanencyofaparticularfinishforafabricdependsonitsintendeduse.The chemicalsused
mayweighthefabrictomakeiteasytoslideandhandle,orallowsmooth penetrationofasewingneedleto
minimizeneedlebreakage.
Anyoneinvolvedintextilecolorationmustbeawareoftheinfluenceofpreparationprocessonthe dyeingbehaviorof
thefabricsaswellasthefinishingchemicalsonthefinalcolorofthegoodsand ontheircolorfastnessproperties.
Withoutthisknowledge,nobodycanensuretheultimatecolor anditsfastnessproperties.
Thetechniques of finishingdepend onthe following:
 Natureofthefabric,
 i.e.chemicalcomposition,state,weaveetc.thisdeterminestheappearance,
 i.e.transparency,luster,fullness,weight,whitenessetc.
Afterdyeing,knitfabricisrequiredtofinish.Duringdyeingallknitfabricaredyedintubularform. Accordingtobuyer's
requirementknitfabricarefinishedinopenformortubularform.Thetubular andopenfinishingsequencesof
EurotexKnitwearsLTD.BangladeshLtdaregiven bellow

61
FlowChartof finishing for tubefabric:
DyedFabric
Hydroextractor TubeSqueezer
FinalInspection
TubeCompactor
TubeDryer
DeliverytoGarments

62
FlowChart of finishing foropen Width fabric:
Tumbledryer
Objective of finishing:
 Improvingtheappearance—Luster,whiteness,etc
 Improvingthefeel,thisdependsonthehandleofthematerialandits softness,
suppleness,fullness,etc.
 Wearingqualities,none—soiling,anticrease,antishrink,comfort, etc.
 Specialpropertiesrequiredforparticularuses—water—proofing,flame proofing,
etc.
 Coveringofthefaultsintheoriginalcloth.
 Increasingtheweightofthecloth.
Typesof finishing:
1) Chemicalfinishing:
2) Mechanicalfinishing:
DyedFabric
DeliverytoGarments
FinalInspection
Compactor
Tumbledryer Ultra-soft
Stenter
OpenSqueezer

63
Finishingeffects:
 Easy- care
 Creaserecovery.
 Dimensionalstability.
 Goodabrasionresistance.
 Improvedtearstrength.
 Goodsewability
 Softorstiffhandle.
 Shineorluster
Observationof Different FinishingM/C:
Squeezeror De-Watering M/C
Afterdyeingprocessfromthedyeingmachinethenthefabricsarcreadyfordc-watering. Thisistheprocess
toremovethewaterfromthefabricpartiallybysqueezing.Thisisthe mainfunctionofthesqueezingmachine.
Butherealsocontrolthesomeimportantfactorof thefabricquality.
Squeezer:-
Turntable(Basket)
Detwister
RingGuideSpeeder
FeedR/R
DancingR/r
WaterPander
Ballonformer

64
ExtractingSqueezer
Dancingroller
Softenerpadder
BallonFormer
Paddingsqueezer
Main squeezer
ConveyorsBlanket
Paliter
Deliverybasket
Important parts
 Twistdetector
 Expander
 Padder
Thebasicfunctionof the squeezingm/c:
 Toremovethewaterfromthefabric.
 Tocontrolthewidthofthefabric.
 Tocontrolthelengthofthefabric.
 Tocontrolthespiralityofthefabric.
 Tocontroltheoverfeedingsystem.
 Toincreasethesoftnessofthefabric.
 Toremovethecreasemarkofthefabric.

65
Controllingpoints:
 Diametersettingmustbeaccurate.
 Excesspadderpressuremaycausefabricdamage.Padderpressuredependson fabric
construction.
 Speedmustbeoptimum.
 Higherthefabricspeedleadslessremovalof water.
 overfeed.
Dryer
Dryingisdefinedasaprocesswheretheliquidportionisevaporatedfromthe fabric.
Important Parts:
 Conveyornet
 ChamberoBurner
 Exhaustairfan
 overfeedroller
 Filternet
 Fan
 Nozzle
Thebasicfunctionof the dryer:
 Todrythefabric.
 Tocontroltheoverfeedsystem(Shrinkagecontrol)
 TocontroltheGSMofthefabric.
ControllingPoints
 overfeed(%):It dependsonfabricstructure
 Temperature:It dependsoncolor.
 Speed:It dependsonfabricconstructionandcolor.ForhigherGSMlowerthe speed.

66
Compactor:-
-Up-r/r
 Basket
 SpindleR/r
 CenteringR/r
 UnderfeedR/r
 overfeedR/r
 TensioncontrolR/r
 BowingControlR/r
 BrushR/r
 EndlessClip/Pin
 Steambox
 HeatedConveyorBlanket
 Co
 Plaiter
 DeliveringBasket
TUBECOMPACTOR
Importantparts
 overfeedroller
 Expander
 Blanket
 Steamsprayers
 Cylinder
 Tefloncovers
Thebasicfunctionsof the Tubecompactor machine
 TocontroltheGSM.(Increasedecrease).
 Tocontrolthedia.
 Tocontroltheshrinkage.(Increasedecrease).
ControllingPoints
a.Temperature :It dependsonconstructionandcomposition&colorofthefabric.
b.Speed :It dependsontemperatureandfabricconstruction.
c.BlanketPressure :Fabricsmoothnessdependsonblanket pressure.

67
d. Overfeed :Overfeedshouldbeoptimum.It increasesGSMbuthigherover
feedleadstotheformationofcreasemark.
OPENCOMPACTOR
Important parts
 over-feedroller
 Blanket
 Steamsprayers
 Cylinder
 Telloncovers
Thebasicfunctions of the open compactormachine :
 TocontroltheGSM.(Increase&decrease).
 Tocontrolthedia.
 Tocontroltheshrinkage.(Increase&decrease).
Controlling Points :
a.Temperature :It dependsonconstructionandcomposition&color of
thefabric.
b. Speed :It dependsontemperatureandfabricconstruction.
c.Blanket Pressure:Fabricsmoothnessdependsonblanket pressure.
d. over feed :overfeedshouldbeoptimum.It increasesGSMbut higherover
feedleadstotheformationofcreasemark.
Slitting Machine
Slitter:
 Basket(M/C)
 J. Box(Padder)
 Retested
 SlitteringRevice(Shape&Knife)
 SpindleR/r

68
 CanteringR/r
 SpindleR/r
 Squeezer
 Take-up-roller
 Pleiter
 DeliveryBasket
Important parts
 Twistdetector
 Cuttingknife/device
 Padder
Main Functionof Slitting m/c
 Toopenthetubeformsof fabric
 Tosqueezethefabricandremovetheextrawaterinthe fabric.
Controlling Points
 Pressure :Thepadderpressureshouldbeaccording to
requirement.
 Speed :Thespeedshouldbeoptimum(30-80 m/min)
StenterMachine
Stenter:-
 Basket
 SpindleR/r
 CenteringR/r
 SpindleR/r
 WaterPadder
 Squeezer(1)(4PS1)
 DancingR/r
 SpindleR/rSofternerPadder
 Squeezer-2(3PSI)
 DancingR/r
 BowingcontrolR/r

69
 UnderfeedR/r
 overfeedR/r
 Brushwheel
 EndlessPinChain
 SteamBox
 BurnerChemicals
 CoolingFan
 Take-upR/r
 Planter
 DeliveringBasket
Heat flow ofBurner
 Gasfire
 Blowerfan
 Nuzzle
 Fabric
Important parts
 Burner
 Exhaustairfan(4)
 Suctionfan(8)
 overfeedroller
 Nozzle
 Chainarrangement
Thebasicfunctionsof the stenter machine
 Tocontrolwidth.
 TocontrolGSM.
 Tocontrolshrinkage.
 Tocontrolspirality.
 Dryingoffabric.
 Toremoveedgecurlofthefabric
 Toremovethecreasemarkofthe fabric
 Toremovethehardnessofthefabric
 Toincreasethebettershadeproperties
 Togivebelterfinishingresultofthefabric

70
Controlling Points
a.Temperature :It dependsoncolorconstructionandcompositionofthe
fabric.ForS/J thetempis150°Cand170°Cfor stripe
fabrics.
b. overfeed :overfeedincreasestheGSMofthefabric.
c.Width setting :HigherwidthsettingreducestheGSM.
d.Speed :It dependsonconstructionandamountofmoistureon
thefabric.
Fabric Inspection:
Thefinishedfabricmayhavedifferentkindsoffaults.ThismayoccurduringKnitting, dyeingor
finishing.If thefabricdeliveredthenthequalityof thefabricmaynotbe goodandthebuyerwill reject
thefinishedgarments.Forthisreasoncareful inspectionofthisfinishedfabricissoimportant.In
finishedfabricthefollowingfaults aregenerallyfound:
4 Point system:
Faultsize–––––––––––– Points
0-3”–––––––––––––––––1
>3”-6”–––––––––––––––2
>6”-9”–––––––––––––––3
>9”––––––––––––––––––4
Hole––––––––––––––––4
Acceptance
Upto40Points =A
41-60Points =B
61-80Points =C
80above =Rejected

71
Shrinkagetest report
Thisreportispreparedaccordingtobuyernameorderno.It canbedonebothfor finishedfabric
/T-shirts.Amountofshrinkageisexpressedbothinpercentage(%)andincan.
Dyeing finishing Quality Report
Thisreportcontaininformationaboutroll no,M/C dia,requireddia,Finisheddia, Finished
GSM,Shrinkage(Length&widthwise) etc.
GSMBoard
GSMoffinishedfabricsfromdifferentrollsofaBatchisaroundherewithsample. GSMof50%
acceptablefromrequired.
Chapter Eleven:QualityAssuranceSystem
QualityAssuranceSystem
Thequalityassurancedepartmentisassignedtomaintainconsistentlyuniform qualityofthe
material;inprocessandvariousstagesofits manufacturing.
ThefocusofthequalitypolicyofEurotexKnitwearLtdhasbeentoprovideproducts atapriceand
serviceadvantagethroughdirectresponsemechanism.Inorderto sustaintheinvestmentsinthe
keytechnologyareaconcerningourbusiness,Eurotex Knitwearhavemadesignificantinvestment
testingandqualityassuranceequipment fromthebestintheworldineachofourproductionbases
andalsoensuredaCompany-widestandardizationdisciplinethroughimplementationofoEKo-TEX
&ISo 9001:2000.Thesearereinforcedperiodicallythroughpersonalinteractionsbetween their
filedrepresentativesandconsumeroftheirproducts.EurotexKnitwearLtd advancemanagement
teamalongwithwell-trainedQualityAssuranceteamensures thebestqualityofproductstomeet
theinternationalstandard.

72
Thequalityteamfollowssomestandardizedinternationalruleswhichareas follows:
FabricInspection :4Pointssystem(for Dyeing)
SewingInprocess :Trafficlightsystem
FactoryGarmentQualityAQL :2.5AQL
LineinProcess :7Pcssystem
Needledetectionreport :9pointsystem
QualitycheckstationpointLight :1000Lucks
Moreover the quality team creates various types of report for maintaining the best quality. They
alwayscreateGSMcheckreport, Lightboxsystemreport.Theprocess ofthequalityteamsare:
 Patterntest
 TrialInspection
 InlineProcess
 Pre-finalprocess
 FinalProcess
TheyhavealsoaGPQteamtoensuretheworkprocessofqualityteam.Thisisfor whythey
alwaysmaintainingthebestqualityfor theirfriend’s(buyers) products.
Quality Control:
Qualitycontrolisconcernedwiththeevaluationoftestdataanditsapplicationto controlofthe
textileprocess,rawmaterials,intermediateproductsandfinal products.It isconcernednotonly
withqualitylevelandcostofmaintainingthis qualitylevelbutalsoconcernedwiththepresentation
oftangiblevaluestomeasure qualityandchangesinquality.Inordertocontrolqualityonemust
knowaboutthe consumersexpectations.

73
Quality assurance:
Qualityassuranceisdefinedasallthosepossibleplannedandsystematicactions necessaryto
provideadequateconfidencethanaproductorservicewill satisfygiven requirementsfor quality.The
QualityAssuranceDepartmentisassignedtomaintain consistentlyuniformqualityofthematerialin
processandvariousstagesofits manufacturing.
Quality Control FlowChart:
Yarnreceiving
SampleKnitting
Batching
Dyeing(Checkshade&Faultsofdyeing)
Dewatering&Untwisting
Drying(Checkdiameter,Pretreatment,Shrinkage Spirality
andGSM)
Compacting
Finalinspection
If sampleoKgofor bulkproduction

74
Quality Managementsystem:
Qualityassuranceproceduremaybeprovidedbythefollowingtwomajor parts-:
Online quality control :
onlinequalitycontrolcompriseswiththerawmaterialcontrol, processcontrol& finishfabric
inspection.
Rawmaterial control:
Asthequalityproductdependsupontherawmaterialquality,qualityassurance department
mustensurethatthebestqualitiesofrawmaterial(witheconomical consideration)areusedin
production.
 TheYarnshouldbewithaknownconcentrationandhighdegree ofpurity.
 Theyarn&Lycrashouldbecompatiblewitheach other.
 Thefabricmustbewithoutfaults,withproper absorbency,
 Whitenessasperrequirementofthesubsequentprocess.
Processcontrol:
 Themethodchosenforprocessmustbeprovidedwithnecessary parameters.
 Duringknitting,samplesaretakenandG.S.Mcheckswiththe reference
samples.
 If notproperlyresetthemachineparameter.
 Sampleiscollectedafterfixation&matched.
 Duringfinishing,temperature,speed,padderpressure,overfeed shouldbe
controlledasper requirement.
 GSM,width,spirality,shrinkage(bothlength&width)shouldbe maintaining
asperbuyerrequirement.
Qualitycontrol
Off-line
On-line

75
Finishfabric inspection:
Purpose:
Toensurethatonlyanacceptablequalityfabricisusedforproducinggarmentsandproper quantityof
shipmentisreceivedfromthesupplier.
Scope:
AllproducedandincomingfabricsofEurotexKnitwearLtd.
Procedure:
 Storeinchargewill checkthereceivedfabricwiththereportedlength,color andtypeof
fabricwiththestatedshipmentdocumentquantityandthe actualorderquantity.
 Thefindingwill berecordedininventoryreportanddiscrepancyregarding fabrictype,
colorandlengthwill benotifiedtotheFactory Manager/Manager.
 Forin-houseproductsqualitycontrolofficerwill guidealloverinspection.
1. Body& rib inspection:
Allrollsarekeptinfrontoftheinspectionm/ctimetotimeasrequire.Thefabricare spreadoverthe
milkywhiteacrylicinspectionboardensureshightransparencyandeven reflectionof light.Thenbythe
inspectionmachinefabricsareinspectedvisuallyatastandardspeedagainstlight.Foranymajororminor
faultslikethick-thin,barremark, fallout,contamination,fly,holes,oillines,needleline,slubsetcare
recordedin inspectionreporttoclassifythefabricbasedonthefourpointssystem.
2. Collar & cuffinspection:
Collar&cuffareinspectedvisuallyunderthelightbox.Foranymajororminorfault incollar/cuff like
havingwrongply,hole,needleline,slubs,wrongdesign,firstround problemetcareproperlycounted
andrecorded.
Qualityinspector(fabric)shallcheck100%ofreceivefabricforquality.Hewill identifyany
defect,holeorstaininthefabricandmakecalculationgivenbellow-
Scopeof Quality control andtesting:
ThescopeofqualitycontroltestinginEKLislittlegood.It hasthefollowingabilityfor qualitycontrol
&testing,

76
- Fabricinspectionby4-pointsystem.
- GSM&Shrinkagetest.
- Washfastnesstest.
- Rubbingfastnesstest.
- Colordifferencecheckbydatabase.
- PHtest.- Pilling andsnaggingtest.
Defectsfound in the final inspection:
 Oilmark/Spot
 Creasemark
 Shadedull/bright
 Colorspot
 Shrinkage
 Stripe
 Bowing/Skewing
 Unevenshade
 Runningshade
 Stickymark
 Blaketripeproblem
 Softenerspot
 ShadenotoK(occurredbybuyer’s representative)
 Roll torlloshadevariation
On-LineTests:
ForPre-treatment Fordyeing
Shadematchingcheck
PHcheck
WashfastnessCheck
Machinechecking
 PHtest
 Absorbencytest
 Fabricwidthmeasure
 Whitenesstest
 Waterqualitytest
Off- line Quality Control:
EKLhaveallthefacilityforoff-linequalitycontrolofthematerialsusedandprocessed materials.Thereare
twotypesofmaterialsaretestedinGKLlaboratoryforthepurposeof qualitycontrol.Thisare–

77
A. Fabrictesting.
B. Rawmaterialstesting.
A. Fabrictesting:
Alltheoff-linetestsforfinishedfabricscanbegroupedasfollows:
1. PhysicalTests.
2. ChemicalTests.
Physical tests:
 Fabricinspectionby4-pointsystem.
 G.S.Mtest.
 Widthofthefabricmeasure.
 Rubbingtest.
 PillingandSnaggingtest.
 Shrinkagetest
 Twistingtest
Chemicaltests:
 Colorfastnesstowater.
 Colorfastnesstowash.
 Colorfastnesstoperspiration.
 oxidativetestdamage.
 Salivatest.
B. Rawmaterial testing:
 Yarncounttest.
 Yarnstrengthtest.
 YarnTPItest.
 Lycracounttest.
Color Fastness:-
Theresistanceofamaterialtochangeinanyofitscolorcharacteristics,totransfer itscolorantto
adjacentmaterialorbothasaresultofexposureofthematerialto any
environmentthatmightbeencounteredduringtheprocessing,testing,storageor useofthe
material.
Colorfastness types:
– WashfastnesstohotwaterasperISo method

78
– WashfastnesstocoolwaterasperISo method
– Rubbingfastness(dry&wet)
– Lightfastness
– Perspirationfastness
– Drycleaningfastness
– Chlorinatedorseawaterfastness
Factorsaffecting color fastness:
– Dyesizeormolecularstructureofadye
– Typesofbonding(i.e., ionic,co-valent,H-bondetc.)
– Amountofdyepresentinfibre
– Chemicalnatureoffibreorcompatibilityofdyewithfibre
– Presenceofotherchemicalslikebinder
– Theactualconditionprevailingduringexposureandafter treatment
Reasonsof colorloss:
– Duetodecompositionofdyemolecules
– Duetoremovalofexternalmedia
– Duetoreactionofdyemoleculeswithacid,alkali,or perspiration
– Duetofrictionwithothersurface
Rubbingfastness(ISO105 X12):
Samplesize :20cm×5cm
Crockfabric :5cm×5cm
No.ofrotation :10
Time :10sec
Load :9N±5%
Assessment:
Greyscalevaluefor staining
Rating Remark
5 Excellent
4-5 Good
4 Good

79
3-4 Average
3 Average
2-3 Average
2 Poor
1 Verypoor
Washingfastness(ISo105 C01-C06):
Adjacentfabric :5cm×4cm
Temperature :40⁰C
Time :45min
Assessment:
Greyscalevalueforchangevalue&stainingRatingRemark5Excellent4-5Good4Good3-4 Average3
Average2-3Average2Poor1Verypoor
Dimensionalstability:
Temperature :45⁰C
Time :30min
Accepted range of shrinkage/extension is ±5%
Greyscalefor assessingchangeinshade:ENISO105-A03 / IUF132 / VESLICC1211
ThisGreyScaleisforassessingthedegreeofchangeinshadecausedtoadyedTextilefabric/ yarn incolorfastness
tests.Forexample,thechangeofshadeofwool andcottonfabricsinthewash fastness,perspirationfastnessetc.
Thescaleconsistsofninepairsofgraycolorchipseach representingavisualdifferenceandcontrast.
Thefastnessratinggoesstep-wise from:
Note5=novisualchange(bestrating)toNote1=alargevisualchange(worst rating).
Thegrayscalehasthe9possiblevalues: 5,4-5,
4,3-4,3,2-3,2,1-2, 1.

80
It isnowquitecommonto measuretheGreyScalechangeincolorinstrumentally. Thisismade
usingasuitablereflectancespectrophotometeraccordingtothetest methodprocedure,ENISO
105-A05.
Greyscalefor assessingstaining:
ENISO105-A03 / IUF132 / VESLICC1211
ThisGreyScaleisfor assessingthedegreeofstainingcausedbyadyedTextile/ yarn incolor
fastnesstests.Forexample,thestainingofwoolandcottonfabricsinthe washfastness,
perspirationfastness, etc.
Thescaleconsistsofninepairsofgraycolorchipseachrepresentingavisual difference
andcontrast.
Thefastnessratinggoesstep-wise from:
Note5=novisualchange(bestrating)toNote1=alargevisualchange(worst rating).
Thegreyscalehasthe 9 possible values:
5,4-5,4,3-4,3,2-3,2,1-2, 1.
It isnowquitecommontomeasuretheGreyScalefor assessingstaining instrumentally.
Thisismadeusingasuitablereflectancespectrophotometer accordingtothetestmethod
procedure,ENISO105-A04.

81
Chapter Twelve: Garments Section
SampleSection Responsibilities:
 Overallmanagementofdevelopingappropriatesample
 Garmentsasperbuyer's requirement.
 ConductFit&Patternevaluation.
 Makebasicblockpattern.
 Ensureproductionasperplanningandalsoensuretarget of
 Productionwithstandardofquality.
 Coordinatemerchandisingteam,procurementteam,garments
 Manufacturingteamforsmoothproduction.
 Ensureeffectiveworkforcemanagementofthesample
 Divisionforsmoothoperationofthefactory.
 Coordinatingallfabric+trimswhicharerequiredforsampling
 Purpose
 Coordinatingprint,embroidery,washforsampling.
 Checkingallthetechnicalaspectsofsamplesbeforereleasingto customer.
 Checkingalltheaestheticaspectsofsamplesbeforereleasing
 tocustomer
 Checkingthequantityrequirementofeachsample.Checking
 Thenecessarypaperworkofreachsample.
 Followupthebuyerreg.eachsamplecomments.
UsagesMachineries:
InthesamplemakingsectiontheyusealltypesofmachinesasinGarmentssection.Thesearc
 Setsquaresformakingbasicblock.
 MackKmcuttingmachine
– Speed-3000-3600
– Volts-220V
– Current-3.3/2.6amp
– Cycle-50/60
 Sewingmachine
1-NeedleLockstitch(autothreadtrimmer)
1-NeedleChain.Stitch,Flatbed
2-NecdleLockstitch
2-NccdlcChainStitch,Flatbed

82
4-ThreadoverLock
-Bar-tackMachine(Computerized)
-ButtonHoleMachine
-ButtonSewingMachine
-BlindStitch(overlock)etc.
 Steamironing
Machine Brand:
1. BROTHER(Japan)
2. Pl-GASUS(Japan)
Theymakethree types of sample.Suchas-
1. Quotation sample:
Atfirsttheymakeasampleofmediumsizeasperbuyerrequirementsiscalled quotationsample.
If thesampleisnotoktheymakeanothersamplecalledrevised quotationsample.
2. Sizeset sample:
If thequotationsampleisokthentheymakethesamplesofallsizewhicharecall sizeset
sample.If it isnotokthemakerevisedsizesetsample.
3. Production sample:
Finallytheymakethesamplefor productioncalledproductionsample
Working procedure:
Theworkingprocedureof samplemaking department isasfollows
Atfirsttheycollectthemeasurementchartfrommerchandizingdept.
MakebasicblockpatternbyhandorbyCAD(middlesizeonly) Cutthe
fabricaccordingtothepattern(for2-3sample)

83
Thenthedept.Headorcoordinatorprovidethecutting
sampletothesewingoperatorandprovidethe
measurementsheetbybuyer.
Sewasampleaccordingtobuyerrequirements Inspect
thesampleafterfinishing.
Thesampleisthenprovidedtomerchandizingdept.
If it isoktheyarecalledtomakesizesetsampleorif it isnotok theyhave
tomakerevisedquotationsample
TheymakegradingpatternbytheCADdepartment
Makesampleofallsizeasthesameprocedureandprovideto
merchandizingdepartment.If it isoktheymakeproduction samplesor
nottheyhavetomakerevisedsizeset samples.
CAD(ComputerAided Design)Section
Responsibilities:
 Makebasicpallernandproductionpattern.
 Makemoreefficientmarkeridentifyingeachpartofthe
 Garments,
 Coordinatemerchandisingteam,procurementteam,sample
 Section,garmentsmanufacturingteamforsmoothproduction.
 Makefabricconsumptionwithallowance%,shrinkage%and
 Totalprocessloss%.
 Identifyfabricdiameterforeachsi/e ofGarments.
 Makeeasythefabriccutting.

84
Usageequipments:
1. Misfiressoftwareforpatternmaking.
2. Dimariensoftwareformarkermaking.
3. Lectraprinterformarkerprint.
Workingprocedure:
MARCHANDISING
ArtworkSpreadsheetfromMerchandiser
MakingPatternsewing.AllowanceasperSpreadSheet+ArtWorkfora
largesizesample
MakeanefficientmarkerAsperColorArtWork
Calculaterequiredfabricconsumptionwith shrinkage%andprocessloss%
MarkerDeliverytoConcernMerchandiserforapprovalwithconsumptionandfabric diameter
ReceivedbuyerapprovalMasterPattern'%
CompletionofGradingasperspreadsheetsample Grading
patternwithmarkersendtocuttingsection
forTrialcat/ Sizeset
PatternupdateaftergettingReportaspercolor wise
Deliverytocuttingproduction
Considerablefactor:
1.Sewingallowance:

85
 All95/5%cottonsinglejerseyfabric3cmfor bodylength&2cmfor bicepstwo side.
 All100%cottonsinglejerseyfabric3cmfor bodylength&2cmfor bicepstwo side.
2.Shrinkagepercentage :
 All95/5%cottonsinglejersey5%x3°cshrinkageisadded.
 All95/5%cottonribfabric3%2%shrinkageisadded.
 All100%cottonsinglejersey3%X2%shrinkageisadded.
 All100%cottonribnoshrinkageisadded.
 Alllycrafabrics5%shrinkageisadded.

3.Processloss:
FormakingactualfabricconsumptiontheCADsectionconsiderfollowing process
losses.
Temaconsumptionlorall type of fabricswith bio finish
Actual consumptiuon
Color Cut
Fabric
Loss
es
Cutpanel
Losses
Sewing
Losses
Print/Emb
Losses
Process
Losses
Total
Losses
White 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%
Ligh
t
colo
r
3% 2% 3% 1+1% 12% 22%
Mediu
m color
3% 2% 3% 1+1% 10% 20%
Dark
colo
r
3% 2% 3% 1+1% 8% 18%
Black 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 6% 16%
GreyMel 3% 2% 3% 1+1% 5% 15%

86
Formula:
FabricconsumptioninKg ×no.ofrequiredgarments
×Processloss%xFabricGSM
FabricDiameterMarkerdiameterXsidespace(1-2.5")
Note:
IntheCADsectionnormallytheycalculatethefabricconsumptionfor alargesize sample.Forthis,
theamountofrequiredfabricsismore.Sofabricwastagesare more.If it ispossibletoevaluate
thefabricconsumptionforeachthensomefabrics maybesave.Andit will bebeneficialfor the
Company.
Cutting section
In EurotexKnitwearsLimited there are onecutting unit
Unit1(capacity-70-80thousandpcsper day)
Responsibilities:
 Collecttheinformationfromplanningdepartmentaboutwhichfabricshavetobe cut.
 CollectthefabricIronthefinishedfabricstore.
 CollectthemarkerfromCADdepartment.
 Foldthefabricaccordingtotherollnumber.
 Spreadthefabricinthecuttingtablewithrequireddiameterrequiredamount.
 Cutthefabricaccordingtothemarker.
 Makethefabricaccordingtothesi/.e,lot,amountofpiecesandetc
 Dividethefabricsaccordingtothefabricrollnumber.
 Inspectthefabric.
 If requiredprintthefabric.
 Storethefabricintoinputareaanddeliverthecutfabricstothesewingdepartment.
Totalareaofthemarket
Memberofgarmentsinthe

87
Workingprocedure:
Filecollectfromplanningdepartment
Fabriccollectsfromstore
MarkercomefromCAD
Fabricfoldingbyautofoldingmachine Fabric
spreading(Lay)
Markersettingonthelay
Cutting(ByusingStraightknife,andautomaticcutter) Sticker
attaches&handcheck
Rejectpartchange
Bundling
If requiredPrint/Embroidery
Storeoninputrack

88
Equipments usage:
1. Cutting table
 Unit1-6
2. Auto folding machine
 Number-2
 Brand-KoNSAN.
3. Auto spreading Machine
 Number-1
 Brand-fly
4. Auto cutter1
 Brand-I.cctra
 Model- VectorM88Kfashion
 Fabricdiameter-upto84"
 Software-Spreadinitial
5. Auto cutter 2
 Brand-Takatori
 Model-UN
 Fabricdiameter-upto73"
 Software-Spreadinitial
6. Straightknife cutting machine
 Brand-KM
 Speed-3000-3600
 Volts-220V
 Current-3.3/2.6amp
 Cycle-5060
7. Stickerattaching machine
8. Inspection table
9. Input rack
Requirements of fabricspreading:
 Alignmentoffabricply
 Correctplytension
 Fabricmustbeflat
 EliminationoffabricHaws

89
 (Correctplydirection
 Eliminationofstaticelectricity
 Easyseparationofthecutlayintobundles
 Avoidanceoffusionofpliesduringcutting
 Avoidanceofdistortion inspread
 Matchingcheeksor stripes
 Mustindicatetheroll no.ofthefabricply.
Processloss:
Fabriclossisamajorcontributiontomaterialutilization. Minimizingfabriclossduringspreadingcan reducethetotal
productioncostsforgarmentmanufacturing.Thisisthekeypointwhichhasbeen highlightedinthisreport.Today
garmentindustryisfacingverytoughscenariobecauseofmore competitorsandlessbuyers,buyershavemanyoptions
butsuppliershaveverylimitedchoices,the timehasgonewhentherewasquotasystemandgarmentindustrydidn't
needtobeverymanyefficientbuttodaysuppliersarefightingforpriceandquality;onfewerpricesbetterqualityis
expected.ordersaregiventothesupplierswhoofferbetterqualityandlessprices.Sowithin such scenario,onlythe
thingswhichcanincreaseprofitandminimizelossofacompanyisfabric saving.
Fabriclossincuttingsectionmaybeforfollowingreason.
 Inefficientmarker
 Variationoffabricdiameter
 HigherGSMthanrequired
 Morefabricfaults
 Moredyeingfaults.
Note:StrifefabricsandlowGSMfabricsarccutbyhandcutting

90
Communicationmodule of Sample,CADand CuttingSection:
Typesof sewingMachine:
 SingleNeedleLockStitchSewingMachine
 DoubleNeedleMachine(D/N)
 OverlockMachine(O/L)
 FlatlockMachine(F/L)
 KanshaiMachine
 ButtonHoleMachine
 Buttonjoin Macand
 Bar-tackMachine(B/T),etc.
Merchandising
Sample
CAD
Cutting
Sewing
Printing/
Embroidery

91
Thread Use In Different Machine:
Machine Type Thread Type
Plain/Auto PlainM/C
1BobbinThread
1needleThread
DoubleNeedleM/c
Twobobbins
TwoNeedleThread
OverLock
2LooperThread
2NeedleThread
CylinderBed
SpreaderThread
LooperThread
3NeedleThread
Flatbed Spreader
Thread Looper
Thread
3NeedleThread
Different Between Cylinder Bed & Flat Bed:
Cylinder Bed Flat Bed
 Hemcanmake  Hemcannot make
 Pipingmechanismisnotavailable  Pipingmechanismisavailable
 Topstitchcandone  Topstitchcannotdone.

Industrial Attachment Eurotex Knitwear Ltd.

Industrial Attachment Eurotex Knitwear Ltd.

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