Final piece of work

1. Unit 57: Photography and Photographic Practice
Camera Settings Evidence Template
**Callum Knight**
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2. ISO Settings
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The Iso is a measurement of
the sensitivity to light. If you
have a lower iso, for example
something like 100 ISO is
deemed insensitive and will
need to allow a large amount of
light in. The benefit of using a
lower ISO is that the image is
generally of a much better
quality, as can be seen from my
images on the left. The 100 ISO
image is significantly clearer
than the other pictures.
Selecting a low ISO will also
allow you to select a lower
shutter speed as selecting a
high shutter speed will not allow
enough light into the
photograph.
If the ISO of the picture is
higher for example 800 ISO
upon zooming in on the image
you will notice significantly more
amounts of noise and possible
colour loss. However a higher
ISO is perfect for shooting
things like sports as the image
is instant.
100 ISO 400 ISO
800 ISO 1600 ISO or higher
It also allows for low light or non flash photography. ISO is part of something known as the “exposure triangle” with Aperture and
Shutter speed being the other two parts. Using all three of these correctly can dramatically effect the quality of your image which is
why its best to understand how each setting effects your photo before selecting them.

3. White Balance
As you can see from the images above, selecting a different white balance setting can dramatically change the outcome of
your picture. The majority of the time using the default Auto WB is fine for almost any type of photograph, however
sometimes you might want to experiment and see what other outcomes you can create. Thinks like Cloudy And Shade seem
to make the picture a little brighter giving it a warmer feel. Both of these options are optimally used when either its a cloudy
day or you are shooting a subject that is in the shade.
Tungsten is an option which is primarily used for shoots that are indoors. The given effect is that of a cooler image, taking out
some of the brighter more harsh tones and giving it a more cool, blue style.
The Fluorescent WB is a mode that is used for getting warmer and brighter shots whilst still compensating for the cool shade
of fluorescent light. This option and tungsten are relatively similar however you can see the slightly warmer colour tones in
the fluorescent option.
The flash option is one that most will be familiar with, it allows you to take the picture you want in low/no light situations. It
actually looks very similar to cloudy and daylight WB.
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Auto WB Daylight WB Cloudy WB Shade WB
Tungsten/Incandescent
WB
Fluorescent WB Flash WB Manual WB

4. White Balance
Overall there are a variety of different white balances that you can experiment with to see how your photograph would look if
it were taken in a variety of different lights. Some of these are great for low light photography whilst others give the optimal
result when used outside in higher light situations.
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Auto WB Daylight WB Cloudy WB Shade WB
Tungsten/Incandescent
WB
Fluorescent WB Flash WB Manual WB

5. Shutter Speed Control
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The Shutter Speed is a control
which dictates the length of time
that light is allowed to hit the
sensor. One key thing to
remember with shutter speed is
that to get the best image then
you must compensate for the
shutter speed by changing other
settings in the “exposure
triangle”.
As you can see when using a
longer shutter speed such as 1
second you can see that the
subjects in the image becoming
a blurred image showing their
movement. The image is also
considerably brighter than the
others, this is due to the fact
that I didn't alter the aperture or
ISO so the image took in a lot of
light leading to the brighter
picture.
You get a similar blurred result
in the 1/15 setting. However the
image is very slightly darker as
not as much light was involved
and the blur is perhaps not quite
as heavy as the 1 second or
longer image.
Shutter speed of : 1 second or longer Shutter speed of : 1/15 to 1/60 second
Shutter speed of : 1/250 second Shutter speed of : 1/2000 or higher

6. Shutter Speed Control
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The shutter speed of 1/250
began to give a blurred effect
simlar to that of the longer
shutter speeds but not of the
same intensity. The image again
, is significantly darker which
goes hand in hand with the
correlation between the longer
shutter speeds and the intensity
of the light.
Finally the 1/2000 shutter sped,
is pretty much an instantaneous
image which give a nice crisp
image with virtually no blur.
The images that were taken at a
longer shutter speed had to be
taken with a tripod to ensure
stability. Longer shutter speeds
are ideal for things like
architectural photography or
photographing things like the
weather.
The faster shutter speeds don't
rely on the tripod as much and
can be done by hand, faster
shutter speeds are great for
taking quick photographs of
things such as sports or
animals.
Shutter speed of : 1 second or longer Shutter speed of : 1/15 to 1/60 second
Shutter speed of : 1/250 second Shutter speed of : 1/2000 or higher

7. Lens Aperture Settings (Depth of Field)
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The aperture is the size of the
hole that is allowing light into
the camera when you are taking
a photograph. A good way to
think about it is to think about
your eye. Your brain will
automatically change the
dilation of your pupils to allow in
the correct amount of light. IF
you are in a dark room the
pupils will widen to allow more
light helping you to see, the
opposite if you are in a well lit
place.
Widest Aperture (f/4) Medium Aperture (f/8)
Smallest Aperture (f/16)
Changing the aperture as I said, changes the size of the hole which lets light in,
so combining the aperture with the other two aspects of the “exposure triangle”
you can get an interesting variety of pictures. In the pictures I took I solely
changed the Aperture settings. As you can see the Wider apertures allow for a
shallower depth of field, the strap of the camera as photographed here is totally
in focus where as the background is heavily blurred out. The medium aperture
has a slightly lessened effect but you can still see some noticeable blurring in
the background of the image.
The smallest aperture ensures almost no blurring and allows the entire picture
to be sharp. Some people prefer it this way where as others will prefer to
experiment with depth of field.