The document discusses various camera settings that control aperture, shutter speed, ISO, white balance, and post-processing options. It explains how aperture affects depth of field, shutter speed affects motion blur, and ISO affects image noise. It provides examples of different settings and their effects. Additional sections cover using white balance to adjust color temperature and post-processing tools like curves, levels, dodging and burning, hue/saturation, and color balance for fine-tuning photos.

1. 1

2. Aperture (AV mode)
Aperture is to do with how large the hole is in the back of a camera lens. This controls the depth
of field. *look at the photograph on the left hand side, the f number determines how large the
hole in the back of the lens is going to be. A lower f number (a bigger hole) gives you a bigger
aperture. By doing this, you are increasing the amount of light that can reach the image sensor
(as the hole is bigger) but you are decreasing the depth of field *look at the second photograph
marked F1.8 (this gives you an idea of how f numbers work visually). A higher f number (a
smaller hole) gives you a smaller aperture. By doing this, you are increasing the depth of field in
your photograph, but are allowing less light into the image sensor. *Look at the photograph on
the left marked F22 (this again gives you an idea of how f numbers work visually.
As stated above F numbers change the aperture of the image, but can some problems arise
when doing so? Let's assume your camera is on aperture priority mode (this meaning it is only
the aperture of the camera you have to manually change) When using a high f stop number, the
camera will have to prolong the time the shutter is open to allow more light in. This can cause a
problem as not everyone has a tripod to hand & using a shaky hand will disrupt the image
quality.
A large depth of field (high f number, smaller aperture) allows you to capture the whole image in
sharp detail. It allows the closest & furthest objects in the photograph to be in focus.
A shallow depth of field (low f number, large aperture) allows you to capture a specific part of an
image in sharp detail. This only allows the main subject to be focus & the rest of the image will
be out of focus (blurred & not easily visible).
Both can be used as strengths & weaknesses in certain genres of photography. For example, a
small aperture would be ideal for a landscape photograph, whereas this may not be useful in
photography like portrait (where a larger aperture would be ideal).

3. The use of a low aperture (big hole) of 5.6
in this photograph has decreased the depth
of field in this particular photograph. As you
can see, the photograph is focusing on
what is directly in front of the lens, but not
on what is happening behind. The rest of
the photograph is out of focus. The low
aperture would have allowed a quick
shutter speed to occur as a lot of light can
hit the image sensor due to the big hole.
F5.6
This is around a middle aperture (medium
hole) for the camera I was using. As I
increased the aperture to 13.0, the depth of
field would have increased as well. You can
clearly see in the photograph that this has
occurred, as the Fanta can in the
background looks clearer than before &
more of the table is in focus. The medium
aperture would have allowed a slightly
slower shutter speed compared to a low
shutter speed, as more light would have
been needed to hit the image sensor.
F13
This is a high aperture (small hole) for the
camera I am using. As I increased the
aperture to 20, the depth of field continued
to increase. You can that everything in the
photograph is in focus (up until you reach
the edge of the table). Compared to the
other apertures, this allows you to see
much more of the image. If I had continued
to raise the aperture, more would be in
focus. The high aperture would have
allowed a much slower shutter speed
compared to the two apertures above. This
is due to the small hole in the lens, it
cannot gather enough light with a quick
shutter speed. This can possibly cause
shaking to be visible in the photograph but
it is not in this photograph.
F20.0

4. Shutter Speed (Tv mode)
Shutter speed is basically how long the shutter of the camera will be open before it closes when
you take a photograph. Different shutter speeds give you different results in your photography.
For example *look at the left hand side photograph marked 1.5 seconds this shows you a slow
shutter speed. A slow shutter speed will allow more light to hit the image sensor. This can be
good when you are capturing a photograph in a dark place. An example of a fast shutter speed
*left photograph 1/500second. This allows you to capture a very quick image which does not let
a lot of light in. This can be useful when you are shooting on a bright, sunny day.
Each kind of shutter speed comes with its own ups and downs *the photograph on right. The
slower the shutter speed, the more 'movement' you will produce in your image. Compare this to
a faster shutter speed, you would produce an image that freezes the movement. Each
technique can be useful, depending on what photograph you are wanting to produce. With a
slower shutter speed, you should expect shaking & unwanted movement in your photographs
(this is if you do not have a tripod with you. with a faster shutter speed, you can find that not
enough light is being produced in the image, so you will have to counter balance this by
increasing the ISO. This will lead to a lower quality image that can feature noise & grain.
If you want to take photographs like these and not have to worry about changing other things, I
would recommend using the camera on TV. This allows you to only change the shutter speed
manually. You can produce the kind of images you want & the camera will do the rest.

5. This photograph was taken with the shutter
speed of 1 second. Because the shutter
speed was slow, the image sensor could
pick up on a lot of light & shaking that was
occurring. You can now see this within the
image. It has picked up on the movement
of my hand whilst I was shaking & moving
it. The aperture would have been high as a
lot of light wold have been able to hit the
image sensor.
1”
This photograph was taken with the shutter
speed of 1/50 of a second. This shutter
speed is faster than the one above, but is
still slower than the one below. As it is
faster than the one above, it has captured
less movement in the image, but there is
still some blurred lines on some of my
fingers due to the movement. The aperture
should have decreased to allow more light
in, but I used TV mode and it appears that
the camera did not do this automatically.
1/50
This photograph was taken with the shutter
speed of 1/1000, which is a very fast
shutter speed on this camera. It is faster
than the two above, which has allowed the
camera to stop the movement in the image.
This id due to the fact the image sensor
does not have a lot of time to pick up
moving parts of the image. Just like the
photograph above, I used TV mode which
should have lowered the aperture to make
the image brighter, but the camera has not
done this (it has tried to though as the
background is blurred). This has then made
the image a lot darker than it needed to be.
1/1000

6. ISO settings
The ISO is another feature found on some cameras. What the ISO does is change how
sensitive the sensor in the camera is to light. The bigger the number is, the more sensitive the
sensor is. For example an ISO of 100 will not increase how sensitive the sensor is a lot,
whereas an ISO of 6400 will increase the sensitivity significantly. Most of the time ISO is not
needed in photographs, which is one of the reasons why it has not got its own setting on the
camera (like AP or TV).
Looking at what the ISO can do for an image, look at the two photographs at the bottom of the
page In the first photograph, you can see that the increase in ISO has increased how much light
is featured in the image. In the second image, you can see how ISO can end up ruining an
image. When the ISO is at 100, you can see a clear image with no noise. You then look at the
image with an ISO of 6400, you will see a lot of noise featured in the photograph. Noise
happens due to the fact the image sensor will try & heighten the individual pixels found in the
photograph & heighten there colour as much as possible, the sensor does not always do this
very well. This leads to discolouration & noise within the photograph.
For the reasons stated in the above paragraph, it is always recommended to alter other
features like aperture & shutter speed before using ISO. Sometimes ISO is essential though as
the other features have their problems too.

7. I took this photograph with an ISO of 100
(which is the lowest the ISO goes on the
camera I used). The ISO changes the
sensitivity the image sensor has to light. As
I kept it low, the sensitivity was also low.
This allowed for an even photograph with
virtually no grain or noise found within the
image.
100
As I increased the ISO, I increased the
sensitivity of light. This has given me a
slightly lighter image that the one before.
Due to the fact I increased the ISO, some
slight noise has become apparent on the
mouse (but this makes the photograph look
sharper to the untrained eye). No
discoloration has occurred though, which
can be seen as a good thing.
400
I again increased the image sensors
sensitivity to light again by increasing the
ISO to 1600. This a the second highest ISO
on the camera I used. As I increased it
again, the image has an increase of noise
in it. I also noticed some discolouration
around the edges of the light on the
mouse, which is due to the high ISO. This
decreases the overall quality of the image.
1600

8. White Balance
White balance is another feature you will find on this camera. The white balance basically does
what it says in the title: it balances the white out in a image. The camera has to do this as 'true
white' is differs depending on what kind of lighting you are taking the photo under. On the
camera you will find different settings for different kinds of light. The table & diagram below
explain very well what K (Kelvin) different kind of lights have.
Usually, the auto-white setting is enough to use in most situations, but some photographers like
to alter the white balance on purpose. Altering the white balance on purpose can allow the
photographer to have a colour filter over their photographs. For example, a photographer could
use a shade setting (which would be around 9000K) but not on shade, but on a sunny day. This
would give the photograph much warmer tones. Using this trick, the photographer can convey
different emotions & tones in his/her photography.

9. Daylight
Shade
Tungsten Light
Flash
The four above images are just 4 of the different automatic light balance settings you will find
on this camera. The different settings have altered the same image in different ways.
The first image was taken with the daylight white balance setting (around 5000/6000k), this
has not altered the image a lot so the colouring is exactly how you would actually see it. The
next image was taken with the white balance setting of shade (you would usually use this in
a situation with 9000K). This setting would usually be used in a dark & cool setting (the
setting would then make it warmer) but as it was used in an already warm & sunny area, it
has just added on to this. The next image was taken with the white balance of tungsten light
(around 2000K). This setting would make the tungsten light less warm & cool it down. Due to
this fact, it has made the sunny seen very cool & very blue. The last one was taken with the
automatic white balance setting of Flash. Flash has a similar K to the first photograph I had
taken, which has allowed a similar looking image to be produced, but with a slight warmth
coming through the photographs.

10. Original image
Cropped

11. Curves

12. Levels
Dodging and burning

13. Curves (red, blue, green)
Hue & saturation
Colour adjustments
Colour balance