GOTS and Okeo-Tex are most widely used certified standards for quality product and processing of production to finished products of textiles. The principle is production of textile products with in green environment and use of natural raw material as input and reduce environmental pollution.

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BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion
Technology
“Process and Quality Control in finishing”
Title: Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
and Oeko-Tex
Prepared By:-Berihun Gashu (MSc in TC)
Under the guidance of:-Dr. Melkie
G.
June 2021 G.C.

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o Introduction
o GOTS
 Aim of the standards
 Scope and structure
 products covered by the standard
System
 key features of the standard system
 Controlling methods in textile
production process
o Okeo-tex
 Classification of standards
o Conclusion

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What is the Global OrganicTextile Standard (GOTS) ?
The International Working Group on GOTS is an independent, non
governmental, not-for-profit organization which promotes textile
processing for organic fibers through environmentally and socially
responsible manufacturing.
Its certification applies to the production, processing, manufacturing,
packaging, labeling, exportation, importation and distribution of all
natural fiber products and is backed up by independent certification.

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Oeko-Tex?
 Oeko-Textile is about how the fabric is processed, including
dyes and finished fabrics are certified free of harmful chemicals
safe for human use.
This global certification system assures manufacturers, sources,
retailers, and consumers around the world that certified products
the strict limit values for harmful substances of STANDARD 100 and
these substances are not present in critical concentrations.

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It is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from
harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially
responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a reliable
guarantee to the end consumer.
These standards for organic textiles cover the production, processing,
manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and
distribution of all natural fibers.
Scope and structure
Aim of the standards
GOTS

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What products are covered by the
standard System?
The GOTS standard applies to fiber products, yarns, fabrics and
clothes.
In principle, any product that can be considered as a textile
product is covered under the scope of GOTS.
A product can only be certified and labeled only as a whole
(with a GOTS label indicating: ‘organic’ or ‘made with organic’).

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What are the key features of the
standard system?
GOTS relies on a dual system to check compliance with the
relevant criteria consisting of on-site auditing and residue testing.
Currently, certification requirements are derived from version
2.0 of the GOTS standard.
The release of GOTS Version 3.0 will occur in 2011.
GOTS has a practical public data base that enables its users to
search for GOTS certified entities in the supply chain, their
location, fields of operation and GOTS certified products according

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Controlling methods
of GOTS in textile
production process

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Sizing and weaving /
knitting
 Additives allowed are paraffin, paraffin oils and
substances on basis of natural raw materials only.
Spinnin
g
Allowed sizing agents are starch, starch derivates, other
natural substances and CMC (carboxymethylcellulose).
Knitting / weaving oils must not contain heavy metals.
Other inputs are allowed on basis of natural raw
materials only.

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Pre-treatment stages, wet
processing
 Allowed are mechanical compaction, webbing and
entangling such as hydro entanglement only.
Non woven
manufacture
Pre-treatment Criteria
Ammonia Prohibited
- Exception: allowed for pre-washing of wool, if
close circuit..
Bleaches On basis of oxygen only (peroxides, ozone, etc.).
Exceptions for non cotton fibers have to be approved by
certifier.
Boiling, curing,
washing
Allowed are auxiliaries, that meet the basic requirements
Chlorination of Prohibited

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Pre-treatment stages, wet
processing
Pre-treatment
stage
Criteria
Mechanical/therm
treatments
Allowed
Mercerization Allowed with auxiliaries that meet the basic
Optical brightening Prohibited
Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes and
auxiliaries
- Allowed are natural and those auxiliaries and synthetic
that meet the require-ments.
- Prohibited are amine-releasing azo dyes.
Dyeing

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Parameter Criteria
Selection of finishing
methods and
 Allowed are mechanical, thermal and other physical
methods.
 Natural auxiliaries and free enzymes are permitted.
 Only for softening, milling and felting synthetic
permitted, as long as they meet the requirements.
 Flame proofing auxiliaries are exceptionally permitted
Finishing
Parameter Criteria
Selection of dyes,
pigments and
 Allowed are natural dyes and those auxiliaries, synthetic
and pigments that
meet the requirements.
 Allowed are printing methods that are based on water or
natural oils only.
 Prohibited are discharge printing methods and aromatic
solvents (plastisols, etc.).
 Prohibited are amine-releasing azo dyes.
Printing

13. The variations of Certifications of oeko-tex is writing below:
STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX
STeP by OEKO-TEX
MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX
ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX
DETOXTO ZERO by OEKO-TEX
 LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX
 My STeP by OEKO-TEX.
From this certification of the first four variations which are directly
related with Ready
Made Garment , Fabric or clothing's are covered in this seminar. 13
Oeko-Tex

14. It is a worldwide, consistent, independent testing and certification
system for raw, semi-finished, and finished textile products at all
processing levels, as well as accessory materials used.
Criteria
Important legal regulations, such as banned Azo
colourants,formaldehyde, pentachlorophenol, cadmium, nickel, etc.
Many harmful chemicals, even if they are not yet legally regulated.
Numerous also environmentally relevant substance class.
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What is STANDARD 100 by
OEKO-TEX®?

15. 1. To provide the end consumer with a reliable, third-party, independent
product label for non-hazardous products that are tested in accordance
with the STANDARD 100 criteria catalogue and thereby contribute to
effective consumer protection.
2. To support the companies in the textile chain on the basis of a scientific
criteria catalogue and neutral laboratory tests in a targeted manner with
the implementation of their intended product safety with regard to
human ecology.
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Aims of the product certification in accordance with
STANDARD 100:-

16. STeP(Sustainable Textile Production) is a certification where the
permanent implementation of environmental friendly production
processes, optimum health and safety and socially acceptable working
conditions.
STeP standard and the benchmarks allows certified companies to
continuously improve their environmental protection achievements and
their social responsibility as well as their efficiency. 16
STeP by
OEKO-TEX

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18. List of restricted chemicals, auxiliaries and other substances used
during textile production, including banned materials as well as onset
values.
 Restricted substances lists are based on worldwide regulations or
toxicological expertise
Verified through analytical testing of processed textiles
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RSL = Restricted Substance List(product related)

19. List of chemicals, auxiliaries and other substances banned for use
textile and leather production facilities.
Verified through chemical inventory review and analytical testing of
chemical mixtures.
MRSL does NOT cover chemical synthesis processes or other stages of
chemical production.
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MRSL = Manufacturer Restricted Substance List
(process related)

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Prerequisite of STeP by
OEKO-TEX

21. “Made in Green” is a traceable consumer label for sustainable textiles.
Each item with the “Made in Green” label features a unique product ID
and other code allowing you to trace the article’s production.
 Each product ID gives you visibility into the various stages of
production as well as the countries in which textiles were
manufactured.
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MADE IN GREEN by
OEKO-TEX

22. ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX is an certification system for chemicals,
colorants and auxiliaries used to manufacture textiles.
A three-stage verification process analyses whether the chemical
products and each individual ingredient meet specific requirements
with regard to sustainability, safety and compliance with statutory
regulations.
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ECO PASSPORT by
OEKO-TEX
1:Restricted Substance List (RSL) and Manufacturing Restricted
Substance List (MRSL) screening.
2:Analytical verification.
3 (optional):Assessment Or On-SiteVisit.

23.  All materials including trims + Finished product.
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What Can Be
Certified?

24. GOTS and Okeo-Tex are most widely used certified standards for
quality product and processing of production to finished products of
textiles.
The principle is production of textile products with in green
environment and use of natural raw material as input and reduce
environmental pollution.
Basically eco-friendly nature makes the standards are acceptable in
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25. 1. Standard, G.O.T., 2008. Global Organic Textile Standard. Recuperado
el, 27.
2. https://www.oekotex.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Marketing_Materi
alien/STANDARD_100/FAQs/FAQ_STANDARD_100_EN_ES_01.2019
.pdf
3. https://naumd.memberclicks.net/assets/MembersOnly/Reports/OEK
O-TEX%20NAUMD%20Presentation%20040819.pdf
4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oeko-Tex
5. http://www.nocaagro.com/standards/GOTS.pdf
6. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324965855_Global_Organ
ic_Textile_standards_GOTS_An_overview

26. Thank You for
your
kind attention!