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“Audit Checklist and Methods: Ecological and Social Compliance”.
22 May 2015
Mumbai,India
Agriculture
Processed Product
Textile Certification Programs
Retailer
Supply Chain
Certification
Body
Standard
Owner
Cotton Farm Collector Retailer/Brands
Processing
Textile Process
Natural Fibers
Processor
Retailer/Brands
growing
harvesting
end product
ginning
spinning
knitting mill
weaving mill
dyeing mill
finishing
Basic Features
GOTS • slide 8 • 05/06/2015
Organic Fibres
Environmental and So
cial Criteria
Concerns all
Processing Stages
Testing for Harmful Su
bstances
Unified Certificate Templates
GOTS • slide 10 • 05/06/2015
Organic Fibers, Composition and
Labeling Guidelines
Basic Key criteria for fiber use
Organic Fibres
Criteria Item
Fibres Allowed Natural Fibres like Cotton, Bast, Silk,
Wool, Other Animal Fibres (Certified
Organic & Inconversion)
Fibres Not Allowed GMO Fibres & Asbestos
Fibres Restricted Synthetic & Regenerated (Max
10%)
Special Conditions (Restricted
fibres)
For socks, & Sportswear etc.
(Max 25%)
GOTS • slide 11 • 05/06/2015
GOTS • slide 12 • 05/06/2015
• General criteria for all processing stages
(e.g. separation, record keeping, environmental policy, social criteria)
• General ban on harmful substances in all processing stages
(e.g. formaldehyde, toxic heavy metals, GMOs)
• General criteria for the assessment of chemical inputs
(meeting limits on human and environmental (aquatic, fauna, flora and soil
) toxicity as well as on biodegradability / -eliminability)
• Specific criteria for the different processing stages (e.g. functional waste wa
ter treatment plant for wet processing plants, limitations on materials for a
ccessories and finishing methods)
Criteria for processing
Processing Stages
• Chemicals/ enzymes used at
various stages
• Inputs should conform to
GOTS Version 4.0
• Positive lists available with
CB’s.
• Social and Environment
criteria
GOTS • slide 13 • 05/06/2015
GOTS • slide 14 • 05/06/2015
• Meeting social minimum criteria based on the ILO key norms is comp
ulsory for all processing and manufacturing stages.
The requirements include e.g.:
• No child labor
• Payment of living wages
• Working hours must not be excessive
• Safe and hygienic working conditions
• No discrimination, no harsh or inhumane treatment
• Operators must establish social compliance management tools that s
upport the implementation and monitoring of the social minimum
Criteria along with local legislation.
Minimum Social Criteria
Environment Criteria
• Energy & Water Consumption Data
• Waste & Discharges
• Chemical & Sludge Disposal
Testing Criteria for Discharged water:
Local Legislations
GOTS • slide 15 • 05/06/2015
Storage, Packing and Transport
• Contamination with non organic products is prohibited
• PVC in packing materials is prohibited
• Pesticide/ Biocide use in storeroom/ transportation has to be i
n accordance with International/ National Organic Production
Standard
GOTS • slide 16 • 05/06/2015
GOTS • slide 17 • 05/06/2015
Dual system for quality assurance
Certification
• On-site inspection of the en
tire processing chain up to t
he import level
• Annual inspection cycle
• Organic product flow, envir
onmental and social criteria
subject to inspection
Residue Testing
• Orientation values for residu
es
• Risk assessment of contamin
ation
• Analysis in ISO 17025 accred
ited labs
&
An auditor’s daily work
Certified organic or in-conversion organic
fibers
International or national organic
farming standard e.g. EU, NOP, NPOP
etc.
Certification /accreditation IFOAM or
internationally recognized standard
(ISO 65 or EN45011 )
Natural fibers that are;
Reception check
• Packaging
• Labeling
• Quantity
• Quality
• Documentation
• Record keeping
Processing:
Clean machines, containers store areas before start organic process
Separation of organic products
All stages through the processing chain
• ensure that organic and conventional fibers
are not commingled
• organic fibers are not contaminated by
contact with prohibited substances.
• All organic raw materials must be clearly la
beled and identified as such at all stages thro
ugh the processing chain
Separation
Meaning of separation?
Contamination prevention between organic /non-organic products as well as o
ther prohibited substances
Is it here??
Output Storage
Finish products should be packed, labeled and sealed properly.
Lack of details in the label
Transport certified claimed products with proper labels &
accompanying transport documents
Transportation
TRANSACTION CERTIFICATE (TC) FOR TEXTILE PROCESSED ACCORDING TO THE GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE
STANDARD (GOTS)
1. Body issuing the certificate (name and address)
Control Union certifications B.V.
Meeuwenlaan 4-6
8011 BZ ZWOLLE
NETHERLANDS
2a) Licensing code of the certification body GOTS-CUC-03
2b) Reference number of the certificate: PRJ 816471/252974
3. Seller of the product (name and address)
CIS Test Company
Meeuwenlaan 4-6
8011 BZ Zwolle
Overijssel
NETHERLANDS
4. Inspection body* (name and address)
Control Union certifications B.V.
Meeuwenlaan 4-6
8011 BZ ZWOLLE
NETHERLANDS
5. Last processor of the product(s) (name and address)
CIS Test Company
Meeuwenlaan 4-6
8011 BZ Zwolle
Overijssel
NETHERLANDS
6. Country of dispatch
NETHERLANDS
7. Buyer of the product(s) (name and address)
AAA Organic Pvt. Ltd.
Brijdham Complex, 255, Canal Street, Bld.6, Flat 4, Shreebhumi, VIP
Road
700048 Kolkata
West Bengal
INDIA
8. Consignee of the product (Address of the place of destination)
H & M Hennes & Mauritz
Sisli Ayazaga Buyukdere Cad 3 Yol Mevkii Noramin Is Merkezi No:55 Kat: 2 D: 206
Maslak
34398 Istanbul
TURKEY
9. Country of consignee
TURKEY
10. Product and shipment information
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS-NL) certified
Products as specified in box: 17
from organic production methods.
Invoice no.: inv 0111 d.d. 01-09-12
Transport document no.: trns 0022 d.d. 01-09-12
Container no.: 123U456789-0
Identification codes : Org GOTS Test 01
11. Gross weight(kg)
1200.00 kgs
12. Net weight(kg)
1000.00 kgs
13. Commercial weight (kg)
0.00 kgs
14. Declaration of the body issuing the certificate
This is to certify that the organic fibre material(s) specified in box 17 used for the products designated above has been produced in accordance with (an) organic farming
standard(s) which is/are recognised by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and that the products have been processed in accordance with GOTS. Compliance with
this standard is continually monitored by the inspection body named in box 4.
15. Additional declaration
Certification of the organic fibres used for the products listed complies with USDA NOP rules : Yes No
(relevant information for products marketed and sold in the US; obligatory information for any GOTS TC)
Organi cotton fiber certified as per NPOP
The raw material (fibre) used for the products designated above has been produced in accordance with the USDA NOP standards
16. Place and date of issue Colombo-07, 07 September 2012
Name and signature of authorised person
On behalf of Managing Director
Nabadawewa, Mr. M. C. K. (Mahesh)
Stamp of the issuing body
COPY
1 of 2
any processing stage to the origin of certified fiber
Traceability
Compliance
Traceability via documentation
Tracing back any processing stage to the origin via lot numbers on
documentation and record keeping.
All the chemical consumption and stock records
Chemical Use
• Must use approved Chemicals by an
certification body accredited by GOTS.
• Store properly to avoid contamination
• Assurance of correct recipe and ratio
• Record keeping of receipt and issuance.
• Textile processing unit which doesn’t
have chemical manufacturing
process cannot obtain the approval
alone.
Accessory use
• Allowances
• Prohibitions
• Restrictions
when using accessories
Requires proof of ;
• labels
• MSDS
• Test reports
• Supplier’s material specification sheets
*No separate approval program
Environmental criteria
All operators must have
• an environmental policy including target goals
• procedures to minimize waste and discharges
The waste water from all wet processing units must be
treated in a functional waste water treatment plant
Wet processing units must keep full records of the
• use of chemicals,
• energy
• water consumption
• waste water treatment
• disposal of sludge.
Correct Chemical Handling
Proper Chemical Storage
Instructions of chemical
handling
PPE
Access Control to GOTS chemicals Control issue of chemicals
Incorrect Waste Disposal and Chemical Handling
Regular Audit (onsite/desk)
Incidence Audit
Surprise/ Unannounced Audit
QUALIFIED
TRAINING
How has auditing developed throughout the years?
International Working Group
Voluntary organization
Government
Private organization/ Advisory Boards/ Experts
ISO Guidelines
Various Reference
Guidance Documents
Preparation of standards
Policy and procedure
Manual for implementation
Labeling guidelines
Technical
• Material
Composition
• Packaging
• Input evaluation
• Quality Control
• Quantity Control
• Record Keeping
• Internal Inspection
• Technical risk
assessment
(Physical, Chemical,
Biological)
Social
• ILO
• Country Regulation
(both production &
import regulation)
• State Legislation
• Local legislation
• Social risk
assessment
Environmental
• Policy statement
• Waste Disposal
• Energy Conservation
• Water Conservation
• Discharge point
• Quality evaluation
• Environmental risk
assessment
Pre-audit
• Project (process,
scope)
• Quality management
• Programme
management with
standard
• Site to be audited
(area assessment on
the basis of risks)
Audit
• Follow the policy of
the company if
suitable
• Review the
information (opening,
closing)
• Cover the check list
• Collect the evidence,
incidence and sample
• Follow safety
guidelines
• Conduct Interviews
• Follow the audit plan
and timeline
Post Audit
• Report the facts
• Complete the
assessment
• Raise the non-
conformities if any
• Report to team
• Report to your
certifier
• Send the sample and
report by mail/courier
• Follow up Non
conformity
Onsite Audit vs Desk Audit
What kind of improvement
does the factory obtain from
standards/certification?
TECHNICAL
IMPROVEMENT
All raw materials are screened
Fibres, social & environment
are well addressed
Time, space, people
management with traceability
Consumer
assurance
Buyers
credibility
Workers
confidence
SOCIAL
Economically
viable
GOTS • slide 46 • 05/06/2015
Public Data Base
You can search for GOTS certified entities, their fields of operation a
nd certified products according to individual parameters
http://www.global-standard.org/public-database.html

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GOTS Awareness Training Global Organic Textile

  • 1. “Audit Checklist and Methods: Ecological and Social Compliance”. 22 May 2015 Mumbai,India
  • 4. Textile Process Natural Fibers Processor Retailer/Brands growing harvesting end product ginning spinning knitting mill weaving mill dyeing mill finishing
  • 5. Basic Features GOTS • slide 8 • 05/06/2015 Organic Fibres Environmental and So cial Criteria Concerns all Processing Stages Testing for Harmful Su bstances
  • 7. GOTS • slide 10 • 05/06/2015 Organic Fibers, Composition and Labeling Guidelines Basic Key criteria for fiber use
  • 8. Organic Fibres Criteria Item Fibres Allowed Natural Fibres like Cotton, Bast, Silk, Wool, Other Animal Fibres (Certified Organic & Inconversion) Fibres Not Allowed GMO Fibres & Asbestos Fibres Restricted Synthetic & Regenerated (Max 10%) Special Conditions (Restricted fibres) For socks, & Sportswear etc. (Max 25%) GOTS • slide 11 • 05/06/2015
  • 9. GOTS • slide 12 • 05/06/2015 • General criteria for all processing stages (e.g. separation, record keeping, environmental policy, social criteria) • General ban on harmful substances in all processing stages (e.g. formaldehyde, toxic heavy metals, GMOs) • General criteria for the assessment of chemical inputs (meeting limits on human and environmental (aquatic, fauna, flora and soil ) toxicity as well as on biodegradability / -eliminability) • Specific criteria for the different processing stages (e.g. functional waste wa ter treatment plant for wet processing plants, limitations on materials for a ccessories and finishing methods) Criteria for processing
  • 10. Processing Stages • Chemicals/ enzymes used at various stages • Inputs should conform to GOTS Version 4.0 • Positive lists available with CB’s. • Social and Environment criteria GOTS • slide 13 • 05/06/2015
  • 11. GOTS • slide 14 • 05/06/2015 • Meeting social minimum criteria based on the ILO key norms is comp ulsory for all processing and manufacturing stages. The requirements include e.g.: • No child labor • Payment of living wages • Working hours must not be excessive • Safe and hygienic working conditions • No discrimination, no harsh or inhumane treatment • Operators must establish social compliance management tools that s upport the implementation and monitoring of the social minimum Criteria along with local legislation. Minimum Social Criteria
  • 12. Environment Criteria • Energy & Water Consumption Data • Waste & Discharges • Chemical & Sludge Disposal Testing Criteria for Discharged water: Local Legislations GOTS • slide 15 • 05/06/2015
  • 13. Storage, Packing and Transport • Contamination with non organic products is prohibited • PVC in packing materials is prohibited • Pesticide/ Biocide use in storeroom/ transportation has to be i n accordance with International/ National Organic Production Standard GOTS • slide 16 • 05/06/2015
  • 14. GOTS • slide 17 • 05/06/2015 Dual system for quality assurance Certification • On-site inspection of the en tire processing chain up to t he import level • Annual inspection cycle • Organic product flow, envir onmental and social criteria subject to inspection Residue Testing • Orientation values for residu es • Risk assessment of contamin ation • Analysis in ISO 17025 accred ited labs &
  • 16. Certified organic or in-conversion organic fibers International or national organic farming standard e.g. EU, NOP, NPOP etc. Certification /accreditation IFOAM or internationally recognized standard (ISO 65 or EN45011 ) Natural fibers that are;
  • 17. Reception check • Packaging • Labeling • Quantity • Quality • Documentation • Record keeping
  • 18. Processing: Clean machines, containers store areas before start organic process
  • 19. Separation of organic products All stages through the processing chain • ensure that organic and conventional fibers are not commingled • organic fibers are not contaminated by contact with prohibited substances. • All organic raw materials must be clearly la beled and identified as such at all stages thro ugh the processing chain
  • 20. Separation Meaning of separation? Contamination prevention between organic /non-organic products as well as o ther prohibited substances Is it here??
  • 21. Output Storage Finish products should be packed, labeled and sealed properly.
  • 22. Lack of details in the label
  • 23. Transport certified claimed products with proper labels & accompanying transport documents Transportation TRANSACTION CERTIFICATE (TC) FOR TEXTILE PROCESSED ACCORDING TO THE GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GOTS) 1. Body issuing the certificate (name and address) Control Union certifications B.V. Meeuwenlaan 4-6 8011 BZ ZWOLLE NETHERLANDS 2a) Licensing code of the certification body GOTS-CUC-03 2b) Reference number of the certificate: PRJ 816471/252974 3. Seller of the product (name and address) CIS Test Company Meeuwenlaan 4-6 8011 BZ Zwolle Overijssel NETHERLANDS 4. Inspection body* (name and address) Control Union certifications B.V. Meeuwenlaan 4-6 8011 BZ ZWOLLE NETHERLANDS 5. Last processor of the product(s) (name and address) CIS Test Company Meeuwenlaan 4-6 8011 BZ Zwolle Overijssel NETHERLANDS 6. Country of dispatch NETHERLANDS 7. Buyer of the product(s) (name and address) AAA Organic Pvt. Ltd. Brijdham Complex, 255, Canal Street, Bld.6, Flat 4, Shreebhumi, VIP Road 700048 Kolkata West Bengal INDIA 8. Consignee of the product (Address of the place of destination) H & M Hennes & Mauritz Sisli Ayazaga Buyukdere Cad 3 Yol Mevkii Noramin Is Merkezi No:55 Kat: 2 D: 206 Maslak 34398 Istanbul TURKEY 9. Country of consignee TURKEY 10. Product and shipment information Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS-NL) certified Products as specified in box: 17 from organic production methods. Invoice no.: inv 0111 d.d. 01-09-12 Transport document no.: trns 0022 d.d. 01-09-12 Container no.: 123U456789-0 Identification codes : Org GOTS Test 01 11. Gross weight(kg) 1200.00 kgs 12. Net weight(kg) 1000.00 kgs 13. Commercial weight (kg) 0.00 kgs 14. Declaration of the body issuing the certificate This is to certify that the organic fibre material(s) specified in box 17 used for the products designated above has been produced in accordance with (an) organic farming standard(s) which is/are recognised by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and that the products have been processed in accordance with GOTS. Compliance with this standard is continually monitored by the inspection body named in box 4. 15. Additional declaration Certification of the organic fibres used for the products listed complies with USDA NOP rules : Yes No (relevant information for products marketed and sold in the US; obligatory information for any GOTS TC) Organi cotton fiber certified as per NPOP The raw material (fibre) used for the products designated above has been produced in accordance with the USDA NOP standards 16. Place and date of issue Colombo-07, 07 September 2012 Name and signature of authorised person On behalf of Managing Director Nabadawewa, Mr. M. C. K. (Mahesh) Stamp of the issuing body COPY 1 of 2
  • 24. any processing stage to the origin of certified fiber Traceability Compliance
  • 25. Traceability via documentation Tracing back any processing stage to the origin via lot numbers on documentation and record keeping. All the chemical consumption and stock records
  • 26. Chemical Use • Must use approved Chemicals by an certification body accredited by GOTS. • Store properly to avoid contamination • Assurance of correct recipe and ratio • Record keeping of receipt and issuance. • Textile processing unit which doesn’t have chemical manufacturing process cannot obtain the approval alone.
  • 27. Accessory use • Allowances • Prohibitions • Restrictions when using accessories Requires proof of ; • labels • MSDS • Test reports • Supplier’s material specification sheets *No separate approval program
  • 28. Environmental criteria All operators must have • an environmental policy including target goals • procedures to minimize waste and discharges The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant Wet processing units must keep full records of the • use of chemicals, • energy • water consumption • waste water treatment • disposal of sludge.
  • 29. Correct Chemical Handling Proper Chemical Storage Instructions of chemical handling PPE Access Control to GOTS chemicals Control issue of chemicals
  • 30. Incorrect Waste Disposal and Chemical Handling
  • 31.
  • 32. Regular Audit (onsite/desk) Incidence Audit Surprise/ Unannounced Audit QUALIFIED TRAINING
  • 33. How has auditing developed throughout the years?
  • 34. International Working Group Voluntary organization Government Private organization/ Advisory Boards/ Experts ISO Guidelines Various Reference Guidance Documents Preparation of standards Policy and procedure Manual for implementation Labeling guidelines
  • 35. Technical • Material Composition • Packaging • Input evaluation • Quality Control • Quantity Control • Record Keeping • Internal Inspection • Technical risk assessment (Physical, Chemical, Biological) Social • ILO • Country Regulation (both production & import regulation) • State Legislation • Local legislation • Social risk assessment Environmental • Policy statement • Waste Disposal • Energy Conservation • Water Conservation • Discharge point • Quality evaluation • Environmental risk assessment
  • 36. Pre-audit • Project (process, scope) • Quality management • Programme management with standard • Site to be audited (area assessment on the basis of risks) Audit • Follow the policy of the company if suitable • Review the information (opening, closing) • Cover the check list • Collect the evidence, incidence and sample • Follow safety guidelines • Conduct Interviews • Follow the audit plan and timeline Post Audit • Report the facts • Complete the assessment • Raise the non- conformities if any • Report to team • Report to your certifier • Send the sample and report by mail/courier • Follow up Non conformity Onsite Audit vs Desk Audit
  • 37. What kind of improvement does the factory obtain from standards/certification? TECHNICAL IMPROVEMENT All raw materials are screened Fibres, social & environment are well addressed Time, space, people management with traceability Consumer assurance Buyers credibility Workers confidence SOCIAL Economically viable
  • 38. GOTS • slide 46 • 05/06/2015 Public Data Base You can search for GOTS certified entities, their fields of operation a nd certified products according to individual parameters http://www.global-standard.org/public-database.html