Textile Finishing

1. TEXTILE FINISHING
BY.............
AVIK KUMAR DHAR
M.SC. IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING
(BUTEX)

2. Textile finishing
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that
convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more
specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to
improve the look, performance or hand of the finished textile or
clothing. The term includes all the mechanical and chemical processes
employed commercially to improve the acceptability of the product.

3. OBJECTIVES OF FINISHING
The objective of the finishing processes is to enhance
the suitability of the fabric for end use and to improve
appearance and sales appearance for comport and utility,
to give a desirable qualities (Functional and Aesthetic
properties) of a fabric like; Softness, luster, Drape,
Dimensional stability, crease recovery and soil
repellence.

4. Classification of finishing
 Classification according to the nature of finish
According to the nature of Finish
Physical or Mechanical Finish Chemical Finish

5. Physical or Mechanical finish:- It is defined as any
operation performed to improve fabric appearance or
function by physical manipulation. Steam or water may
accompany the physical manipulation, chemicals other
than lubricants are seldom used.
Examples:-
1. Optical finishing
2. Compacting
3. Calendering
4. Brushing
5. Raising
6. Sueding
7. Napping
8. Shearing
9. Polishing
10. Decating etc.

6. Chemical finish:- In chemical finishing water is
used as the medium for applying the chemicals
to get the desired properties.
Examples:-
1. Resin finish
2. Softener treatment
3. Water repellent finish
4. Flame retardant finish
5. Anti soiling & Soil release finish etc.

7. Classification of finishing
 Classification according to degree of permanence
According to degree of permanence
Permanent
Finish
Temporary
Finish
Durable Finish
Semi - Durable
Finish

8.  Permanent Finish: Usually involve a chemical
change in fiber structure and do not change or alter
through out the life of the fabric
 Durable finish: Usually last through the life of the
article, but effectiveness becomes diminished after
each cleaning; and near the end of the normal use life
of the article, the finish is nearly removed
 Semi-durable finish: Last through several
laundering or dry cleanings and many are renewable
in home laundering or dry cleaning
 Temporary finish: Are removed or substantially
diminished the first time the article is laundered or
dry cleaned

9. Classification of finishing
 Classification according to performance
According to Performance
Aesthetic Finish– Improved /
Altered Appearance
Functional Finish– Improved /
Altered Performance

10. 1. Aesthetic Finish:-
Aesthetic treatments improve the appearance or touch
(sensation), handle and drape of the fabric.
2. Functional Finish:-
Functional finishing improves the product's performance
under conditions of specific use

11. Aesthetic finish modify the appearance and /or
hand or drape of the fabrics.
Examples:-
 Fulling
 Raising, Napping And Sueding
 Plisse
 Shearing
 Softening
 Stiffening etc.

12. Functional finishes improve the performance
properties of the fabric.
Examples:-
 Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
 Antistatic & anti pilling finish
 Crease resistant
 Flame Resistant
 Mothproof
 Shrinkage Control
 Soil Release & anti soiling finish.
 Anti odor finish
 Anti mosquito finish
 Scent release finish
 Water Proof/Repellent finish etc.

13. Brief discussion of Some
common finishes-

14. OPTICAL FINISH
Luster may be imparted to a fabric
by physical means. The techniques
basically involve flattening or
smoothing of the surface yarns
using pressure. Beating of the
fabric surface or passing the fabric
between hard calendering rolls
under pressure and thereby
improving reflectance and luster.
Thermoplastic fibers which can
deform under heat and pressure
can most readily be modified to
impart luster.

15. COMPACTING (SANFORIZER)
Mechanical compacting is
one method of reducing
residual shrinkage. The
process forces yarns closer
together and the fabric
becomes thicker and heavier.
It is used specially
for compacting 100% cotton
knitted fabric such as jersey,
pique, interlock, plush, rib
and sinker etc. It is also used
for cotton blended fabric in
rope form to-
1. Control the residual
shrinkage.
2. Control fabric GSM

16. REASONS OF FABRIC SHRINKAGE
When stretching tensions are
applied to the fabric, the crimped
amplitude decreases and the fabric
grows in the direction of the stress.
Later when the tensions are
relieved and the fabric allowed to
relax, the crimp amplitude returns
to its stable configuration and the
fabric shrink. Fabrics are pulled
from one operation to another.
This is the major cause of fabric
shrinkage.

17. CALENDARING
In this process fabric is compressed by
passing it between two or more rolls
under controlled condition of time,
temperature and pressure. Following
calendars are commonly used:-
1. Swizzing calendar
2. Chasing calendar
3. Friction calendar
4. Compaction calendar
5. Embossing calendar
6. Schreiner calendar

18. BRUSHING
Physical delustering of a fabric
as well as bulking and lofting of
the fabric can be achieved by
treatments which roughen the
fiber surface or raise fibers to the
surface.
Fiber raising processes such as
brushing and napping involve use
of wires or brushes which catch
yarns in the textile structure and
pull individual fibers partly from
the yarn structure. The resulting
fabric is warmer, more softer and
comfortable .

19. RAISING
Raising is the term used to
describe the creation of a pile
surface on a fabric. Fibers are
deliberately pulled part way out of
a yarn to give the fabric a hairy or
fuzzy appearance and a soft
surface. It is also known as surface
finishing which is done –
• To increase fabric bulk.
• To impart feeling of warmth.
• To enhance appearance and hand.
• To increase the number of fiber
ends on the surface of the fabric.

20. SUEDING
A sueder is sometimes referred to as
a sander since the machine consists
of one or more rolls covered with
sand paper as the abrasive. Fabrics
travelling over these rolls develop a
very low pile .the hand will depend
on the fiber composition. Filament
fabrics can be made to feel like a
spun fabric and generally speaking,
all fabrics will have a softer hand.

21. NAPPING
It changes the aesthetic
characteristics of fabric by
developing a pile on the surface of
the fabric. The depth of pile can be
much greater than obtained by
Sueding. Fleece, velours, high pile
fur-like effects, flannel and bed
blanket finish are produced by
napping.

22. SHEARING
Shearing is the process where a
raised fiber is cut at an even
height. Some spun fabrics are
sheared close to the fabric as a
means of removing the raised hairs
giving the fabric a clear, smooth
surface. Shearing is an alternative
to singeing. Shearing follows
napping to:-
1. Clear out random length of fibers
and produce a uniform and level
pile.
2. Reduce the height of wild fibers
and prevent pilling.
3. To produce certain hand &
appearance.
Terry looped bath towels can
be sheared on one or both faces
to produce a plush pile surface.

23. POLISHING
Polishers are primarily used on
synthetic pile fabrics when either an
erect lustrous pile or a laid down pile
is required. Polished fabrics appear
more lustrous because the parallel
fibers result in more uniform light
reflection.

24. DECATING
It is a method of steaming fabric
between two layers of cotton press
cloth. The process is used to
1. Improve the hand and drape
2. Brighten the colors and enhance
natural luster, assist in setting
the finish, or refinish fabrics
after sponging or cold water
shrinkage.
It is a normal step for many
wool and wool blend fabrics.
This mechanical softening
treatment results in luxurious,
soft, smooth handle.

25. FULLING
Fulling is a permanent finish
used on wool fabrics; it is also
known as milling or felting.
The process is a carefully
controlled scouring or
laundering process to induce
felting shrinkage in wool
fabrics. The resultant fulled
fabric is smoother, more
compact and has yarns more
tightly embedded than an
unfulled fabric. Woollens are
frequently heavily fulled.

26.  PLISSE
Plisse is the name of a finish
as well as the name of a fabric
treated with this finish. It is a
permanent finish, produced on
cotton by the action of sodium
hydroxide; but unlike
mercerizing, no tension is
used. The sodium hydroxide is
printed on the fabric in the
form of a paste. The fabric
shrinks only where the sodium
hydroxide is applied, producing
a puckered effect.

27. STIFFENING
Stiffening means the fabric which is generally limp
becomes stiff when a stiffening agent is applied.
Stiffening gives body, smoothness and lustre to the
fabric. This practice is sometimes used to cheat the
customer. Starch and Gum may be used for stiffening.

28. RESIN FINISH
The process of applying resins on textile material so that
they cross link inside the amorphous region, block the free
hydroxyl groups, prevent the H-bond formation and to impart
a crease resisting property.
It may be applied on the surface of the material to form a
coating or it may be applied to the amorphous region of the
material. It is a permanent chemical finishing.
Also known as-
• Wash and wear finish
• Anti crease finish
• Crease resist finish
• Durable press finish
• Wrinkle free finish

29. REASONS OF FORMING CREASES IN COTTON
FABRIC.
Cotton is not-
• Rigid and therefore bends and deformation results in as crease.
• Elastic and therefore can not regain its original shape and position after
deformation.
Besides,
• Moisture absorbing tendency.
Mostly used chemical:-
Phenol- formaldehyde resins
Urea formaldehyde resin
Alkyd resins
DMU
DMEU
DMDHEU
Modified DMDHEU
Deposition Type of resin
Cross-linking Type of resin

30. SOFTENER TREATMENT
A softener is a chemical that alters the fabric hand making it more
pleasing to the touch. A softened fabric has-
• Smooth sensation
• Less stiffness
• Fluffier
• More tearing strength
• Increase drape ability and silkiness
• Reduce sewing thread breakage
Types of softener:-
 Anionic softeners
 Cationic softeners
 Non-ionic softeners
 Reactive softeners
 Emulsion softeners
 Silicon softeners

31. WATER REPELLENT FINISH
Water repellent fabrics are those which resist being
wetted by water. A fabrics resistance to water will depend on
the nature of the fiber surface, the porosity of the fabric and
the dynamic force behind the impacting water spray.
Water proof fabrics are resistant to the penetration of
water under much higher hydrostatic pressure than water
repellent fabrics.

32. FLAME RETARDANT FINISH
 When textile materials are heated, physical and chemical
changes occur at specific temperatures depending on the
chemical make-up of the solid.
 Thermoplastic polymers soften at the glass transition temperature
(Tg),
 Melt at Tm.
 Both thermoplastic and non-thermoplastic solids will chemically
decompose (pyrolyze) into lower molecular weight fragments.
Chemical changes begin at Tp and continue through the
temperature at which combustion occurs (Tc).
 Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI):-This is the amount of oxygen
in the fuel mix needed to support combustion. The higher the
number, the more difficult it is for combustion to occur.

33. COMBUSTION CYCLE

34. Flaming properties of textile materials can be reduced by any one of
the three methods:-
1. By using inorganic materials such as Asbestos, Glass etc.
2. By chemically treating the textiles with flame resistant
chemicals such as borax or boric acid.
3. By modifying the polymer.
Classification:-
1. Non durable:-
Boric acid/ Borax
Diammoniam Phosphate and Phosphoric acid
Sulfamic acid and Ammonium Sulphamate
2. Durable:-
Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl) phosphonium Chloride
THPC- Urea precondensate
THPOH
PYROVATEX CP (N-Methyloldimethyl Phosphonopropioamide)
Fyrol 76
Antiblaze 77

35. ANTI SOILING & SOIL RELEASE FINISH
Soil release is the term used to describe the
clean ability of fabrics by the laundering process.
Whereas anti soiling finish make the fabrics
more resistant to soiling.
Soils:- It can be defined as unwanted substances at
the wrong place. Most common soils fall into one
of four categories:-
1. Water borne stains
2. Oil borne stains
3. Dry particulate soils
4. Composite soils (oil & grease)

36. SOIL RELEASE
Mechanism:-
 Making the fibers more absorbent (hydrophilic)
 Permitting better wet ability for improved soil removal
 Done by using hydrophilic finishes
 Facilitates soil release during washing
 Prevent soil redeposition
 Also, reduce static charge by maintaining moisture on the fabric
surface
 Thus soil attraction during wear can be reduced
 Mainly observed in polyester fabrics

37. ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH
Finish that inhibits the growth of microorganisms,
avoiding the appearance of stains and odors, keeping the
hygiene and freshness of the product.
Antimicrobial treatments control the growth of odor-
causing bacteria arising in everyday use of apparel & home
textiles. Normally these bacteria would generate
unpleasant odor molecules, but by controlling their growth,
treatments suitable chemicals, prevents the formation of
these odors and keeps fabrics fresher longer. It kills
bacteria by puncturing their cell membranes, causing the
contents to leak out. Once the bacteria are dead they can
no longer produce smelly waste metabolites, and fabrics
maintain their freshness.
Also known as anti bacterial finish, moth proofing,
antiseptic finish.

38. ANTI ODOUR FINISH
The term body odour means odours generated as a result of
natural functioning of a human body. Such odours include
odours produced by microorganisms of the skin through
decomposition of skin secretions, urine, other body odours.
The growth of bacteria on the perspiration entrapped into a
garment can rapidly lead to the build-up of undesirable
odours.
It is a specialised finishes that control body odour and
remain fresh for a longer time.
CDs, Charcoal, Zeolites are mainly used anti odour
finishing purpose. Silver and Bamboo fiber have the natural
anti odour properties.

39. ANTI PILLING FINISH
The application of anti-pilling prevents the formation of
"lint" and its unpleasant effect on the surface of the fabric.
When the surface of a fabric is rubbed, pills develop because
abrasion cause fibers to twist into fuzz balls. This sis called
pilling.
Factors affecting pill formation:-
1. Fiber variables (denier, tenacity)
2. Yarn variables (twist, hairy yarns, methods)
3. Fabric construction (tightly constructed knits and woven
fabrics pill less than loosely constructed knits and woven.

40. FABRIC FINISH TO MAKE FABRIC ANTI
PILLING
1. Film Forming binder
2. Durable press reactants
3. Fabric softeners
4. Singeing and shearing
5. Heat setting

41. ANTI STATIC FINISH
Static is defined as the surface build-up of electrical
charges whenever two unlike surfaces contact one
another. Many charged particles reside on each surface.
Mechanism of control:-
1. Static eliminators
2. Antistatic agents (TANASTAT® HA- Anionic)
3. Fiber polymer modification

42. ANTI MOSQUITO FINISH
Finish that provides a protective
action and repellency against
mosquitoes and other insects.
Features:-
1. It provides effective protection
against mosquitoes.
2. Perfumed with lemon grass oil.
3. Skin friendly
4. Provide best results in wash
fastness.
5. Soft handle.
6. Low pilling
7. Durability up to 20 washes

43. SCENT RELEASE FINISH
Finish that gives the fabric
the ability to release various
perfumes and scents. (e.g. apple,
strawberry, jasmine, lavender).
Features:-
1. Pleasant fragrance
2. Extra hand feel
3. This is capsulated finish
4. Baby Cockroach resist
5. Fragrance durability is up to 5
washes while the other
features are durable up to 30
washes.

44. REFERENCES:-
1. http://www.mabera.pt/docs/Acab_Func_EN.pdf
2. Chemistry & Technology of Fabric Preparation &
Finishing by Dr. Charles Tomasino
3.
http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2007/10/texti
le-finishing.html
4. download.nos.org/srsec321newE/321-E-Lesson-
25.pdf
5.www.masoodtextile.com/research/special
finishes/special_finishes.php
6. http://thesmarttime.com/finishing/antimicrobial-
finish.html

45. Any
Question?????????????

46. Thank You
LIFE IS LIKE A COIN.
YOU CAN SPEND IT ANY WAY YOU WISH,
BUT YOU ONLY SPEND IT ONCE
..........................DICKSON