1.
TEXTILE
FINISHING

2.
INTRODUCTION
 Dyeing and printing is not the ultimate steps
 Something is required to make the fabric more
suitable for end-use
 Quality of the fabric in terms of
appearance, handle, functionally enhanced by
some physical means or by chemicals
 Therefore, ultimate value addition is done to the
fabric by finishing

3.
WHAT IS FINISHING ??????
 Finishing is a final process given to a textile material
to
 Give a good appearance
 Desirable feel
 Impart certain durable properties
Stiffness
Softness
Wash and wear finish
Water repelling finish
Fire proof finish etc.
 To impart some desired functional
properties

4.
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHING
 Classification according to the nature of finish
According to the nature of Finish
Physical or Mechanical Finish
1) Calendering
2) Sanforizing etc.
Chemical Finish
1) Mercerization
2) Easy care finish etc.

5.
 Physical or Mechanical Finish
 Mechanical / Physical finishes involve specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in the
fabric appearance
 Also known as dry finish
 Compacting (Shrinkproofing)
 Calendaring
 Raising (Napping, Sueding)
 Shearing
 Polishing
 Corduroy Cutting
 Decating
 Chemical Finish
 Chemicals are used followed by curing or drying
 Also known as wet finish

6.
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHING
 Classification according to degree of permanence
According to degree of permanence
Permanent
Finish
Temporary
Finish
Durable Finish
Semi - Durable
Finish

7.
DEFINITIONS
 Permanent Finish: Usually involve a chemical change in fibre
structure and do not change or alter through out the life of the
fabric
 Durable finish: Usually last through the life of the article, but
effectiveness becomes diminished after each cleaning; and near
the end of the normal use life of the article, the finish is nearly
removed
 Semi-durable finish: Last through several laundering or
drycleanings and many are renewable in home laundering or
drycleaning
 Temporary finish: Are removed or substantially diminished the
first time the article is laundered or drycleaned

8.
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHING
 Classification according to performance
According to Performance
Aesthetic Finish– Improved /
Altered Appearance
1. Calendering
2. Fulling
3. Mercerization
4. Napping and sueding
5. Plisse
6. Shearing
Functional Finish– Improved /
Altered Performance
1. Antiseptic
2. Antistatic
3. Crease resistant
4. Durable press
5. Flame resistant
6. Mothproofed
7. Shrinkage control
8. Soil release
9. Water and stain repellent
10. Waterproof

9.
 Aesthetic Finish
 These finishes modify the appearance and / or hand
or drape of fabrics
 Functional Finish
 These finishes improve the performance properties
of fabrics

10.
AESTHETIC FINISHES
 Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and
/or hand or drape of the fabrics.
 Fulling
 Mercerization
 Napping And Sueding
 Plisse
 Shearing
 Softening
 Stiffening

11.
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
 Functional Finishes improve the performance
properties of the fabric ; like durability,
strength etc.
 Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
 Antistatic
 Crease resistant
 Durable Press
 Flame Resistant
 Mothproof
 Shrinkage Control
 Soil Release
 Water Proof/Repellant

12.
WOOL FINISHING ROOT

13.
COTTON FINISHING ROUTE

14.
SILK FINISHING ROOT

15.
SYNTHETIC FIBRE FINISHING ROOT

16.
COMPACTING - SHRINKPROOFING

17.
COMPACTING - SHRINKPROOFING
 Controlled residual shrinkage is an important
quality parameter for manyfabrics. For
example, excessive shrinkage is undesirable for
fabrics to be made intogarments.
 Here, the residual shrinkage should be less than
2% otherwise the garment will not fit after it is
laundered.

18.
WHY FABRICS SHRINK ???
 Crimp
 Thickness of yarn
 Stretching Tension.

19.
SANFORIZER
 Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual
shrinkage. The process forces yarns closer together and
the fabric becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of
this, the net yardage yield is reduced.
 A Sanforizer is a fabric compactor developed by Cluett
Peabody. The term Sanforized, is their registered
trademark and is used to market fabrics that meet
certain shrinkage specifications. The term Sanforized is
now generally accepted to mean a fabric that has low
residual shrinkage and the term Sanforizing is used to
describe shrinkproofing processes.
 The process, consists of arange where the fabric is first
moistened with steam, to make it more pliable, run through
a short tenter frame (pup tenter) to straighten and
smooth out wrinkles,through the compressive shrinkage
head and then through a Palmer drying unit to set the
fabric.

20.
FABRIC SAMPLE

21.
SANFORIZING RANGE

22.
COMPACTOR HEAD
 The key to any compactor is the head where force is
applied to move parallel yarns closer together. More
fabric must be fed in than is taken off.
 A Sanforizer uses a thick rubber blanket running
against a steam heated cylinder as the compacting
force. The thick rubber blanket first goes over a
smaller diameter roll which stretches the convex
surface of the blanket.
 Fabric is metered onto the stretched blanket and
the fabric and blanket together come in contact with
the steam heated cylinder. At this point, the
stretched rubber surface contracts to its original
length and then is forced to contract an additional
amount as it forms the concave configuration of the
heated drum.

23.
 Since the fabric is not elastic, an extra length
of fabric is thrust between the rubber blanket
and the heated cylinder. Friction between the
rubber blanket and steel drum force adjacent
yarns to move closer together until the unit
length of fabric become equal to the unit length
of rubber blanket it rests on.
 Heat is created by constantly stretching and
relaxing the rubber blanket. The blanket is
cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric
exits from the unit..

24.
COMPACTER HEAD

25.
 The degree of shrinkage can be controlled by
the thickness of the blanket. The thicker the
blanket, the greater is the stretched length at
the bend. A longer length of fabric will be fed
into the compactor causing the degree of
compacting to be greater.
 To be effective, the degree of compacting
needed should be predetermined ahead of time.
This is done by characterizing the shrinking
behavior of the fabric by laundering. The degree
of compacting should not exceed the degree of
shrinking otherwise over-compacting will cause
the fabric to "grow" when relaxed. This is as
much a disadvantage as is shrinkage.

26.
DECATING
 This process is mainly carried out on wool by
exploiting its elastic properties in hot and wet
conditions by the direct action of the steam on
the fabric.
 1) dimensional stability;
 2) setting of pile after raising;
 3) reduction of possible glazing effect after
calendering, thank to the swelling caused by steam blown on
fibres;
 4) modification of the hand, which is much more consistent
after the treatment;
 5) pre-stabilisation to autoclave dyeing

27.
SEMI-DECATING
 Semi-decating is a bach process requiring three steps:
 1. winding the fabric onto a perforated cylinder between a cotton decating apron,
 2. steaming and followed by cooling the fabric
 3. unwinding and batching the finished fabric.
 The fabric be wound onto a perforated drum between the
interleaving cotton decating apron to form a reasonably thick roll.
 Steam is forced through the roll (inside - out) for several minutes to
provide moisture and heat.
 Compressed air is then blown through the roll in much the same
manner as the steam to remove some of the moisture and cool down
the fabric. To insure that the effect is uniform from the inside to
the outside of the roll, the fabric and blanket are rewound onto
another perforated drum so that the outside layers become the
inside layers and the cycle is repeated.
 At the end of the cycle, the fabric and blanket are separated and
wound into individual rolls.

28.
CONTINUOUS DECATING

29.
WATER REPELLENT FINISH
WATER PROOF FINISH

30.
WATER REPELLENT FINISH
 Water repellent are chemical finish
 Resist the penetration of water into or through
the fabric
 Permits the passage of moisture or air through
the fabric
 Methods
 The yarns are coated with water repellent material
like wax
 The water repellent do not permit the water drop to
spread and penetrate
 Could be of durable and non-durable types

31.
 Non-durable repellents are easily removed in
laundering or drycleaning
 Non-durable repellents do not provide
satisfactory resistance to oily liquids
 Durable repellent finish can be either repellent
to water or oil or both
 Flurocarbon compounds have excellent durability
to both drycleaning and laundering

32.
WATER PROOF FINISH
 A water-proof fabric, unlike a water repellent fabric, is
completely moisture proofed
 The fabric is coated or laminated with a film of natural or
synthetic rubber or plastic, such as vinyl or polyurethane
 Water proof fabrics are not necessarily more desirable than
water-repellent fabrics
 Water proof fabrics are uncomfortable
 Water proof fabric possesses a rather firm, non-rapable hand

33.
PARAFFIN WAXES
 The oldest and most economical way to make a fabric
water repellent is to coat it with paraffin wax. Solvent
solutions, molten coatings and wax emulsions are ways of
applying wax to fabrics. Of these, wax emulsions are the
most convenient products for finishing fabrics. An
important consideration in making water repellent wax
emulsion is that the emulsifying system not detract from
the hydrophobic character of paraffin. Either non-
rewetting emulsifiers or some means of deactivating the
hydrophilic group after the fabric is impregnated with the
finish must be used.
 Paraffin wax melts and wicks into the fabric when the
fabric is heated. This will cause most of the fibers to be
covered with a thin layer of wax, especially those that are
exposed to water, and the fabric will have excellent water
repellent properties. The major disadvantage of wax water
repellents is poor durability. Wax is easily abraded by
mechanical action and wax dissolves in dry cleaning fluids.
It is also removed by laundry processes.

34.
WAX EMULSION COMPOSITION
 A typical wax emulsion consists
of paraffin wax as the
hydrophobe, an emulsifying
agent, an emulsion stabilizer
(protective colloid) and an
aluminum or zirconium salt to
deactivate the emulsifying
agent when the fabric is
heated.

35.
SILICONE WATER REPELLENT
 Resinous polysiloxanes,
 Are more resistant to abrasion and less soluble
in dry-cleaning fluids or laundry products.
 Aqueous pH is maintained between pH 3-
4, stable emulsions can be prepared. When these
emulsions are applied to a fabric with a tin
catalyst (e.g. dibutyltin-dilaurate), the Si-H
group hydrolyzes and condenses to a three-
dimensional resinous polymer, making the fabric
highly water repellent.

36.
APPLICATION TO FABRICS
 Silicone finishes are applied to fabrics either from
an organic solvent or from water as an emulsion.
When cationic emulsifiers are used to make an
emulsion, the finish may be applied by exhaustion
since the negative fiber surface charges attract
positively charged particles. Generally
however, silicone water repellents are co applied with
a durable press finish. Durable press resins enhance
the durability of the water-repellent finish.
 Silicone repellents are also used to make upholstered
furniture stain repellent. Chlorinated solvent
solutions are sprayed onto upholstery by the retailer
as a customer option. The fabric is resistant to water
borne stains such as coffee and soft drinks.

37.
FLUOROCHEMICAL REPELLENTS
 Fluorochemical repellents are unique in that they
confer both oil and water repellency to fabrics.
 The ability of fluorochemicals to repel oils is related
to their low surface energy which depends on the
structure of the fluorocarbon segment, the
nonfluorinated segment of the molecule, the
orientation of the fluorocarbon tail and the
distribution and amount of fluorocarbon on fibers.
 Commercial fluorochemical repellents are fluorine-
containing vinyl or acrylic polymers. This is a
convenient method of affixing perfluoro side chains
to fiber surfaces that can orient air-ward and give a
reasonably close packed surface of -CF2- and -CF3
groups.

38.
RECIPE
 A typical formulation for
polyester-cotton rainwear and
outerwear is given.
 The finish is applied by padding
the formulation onto
fabric, drying at 120°C and
curing 1-3 minutes at 150-182o
C.
 The fabric will give a 100 spray
rating initially and an 80 rating
after 5 home laundering-
tumble drying cycles. An 80
spray rating is expected after
one dry cleaning cycle.
 In addition, oil repellency
rating of 5 initially and 4 after
laundering or dry cleaning is
expected.

39.
SPRAY TEST

40.
 100 - No sticking on wetting of upper surface
 90 - Slight random sticking or wetting of upper surface
 80 - Wetting of upper surface at spray points
 70 - Partial wetting of whole of upper surface
 50 - Complete wetting of whole of upper surface
 0 - Complete wetting of whole upper and lower surface

41.
FLAME RETARDANT FINISH

42.
FLAME RETARDANT FINISH
 When solid materials are heated, physical and
chemical changes occur at specific temperatures
depending on the chemical make-up of the solid.
 Thermoplastic polymers soften at the glass transition
temperature (Tg),
 Melt at Tm.
 Both thermoplastic and non-thermoplastic solids will
chemically decompose (pyrolyze) into lower molecular
weight fragments. Chemical changes begin at Tp and
continue through the temperature at which combustion
occurs (Tc).
 Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI). This is the amount of
oxygen in the fuel mix needed to support combustion.
The higher the number, the more difficult it is for
combustion to occur.

43.
NONDURABLES FLAME RETARDENT
 1. Boric Acid/Borax.
 2. Diammonium Phosphate and Phosphoric Acid
 3. Sulfamic Acid and Ammonium Sulfamate

44.
DURABLE FLAME RETARDANT
 1. Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)Phosphonium
Derivatives
 Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl) phosphonium Chloride
(THPC)
 b. THPC-Urea Precondensate
 Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium Hydroxide
(THPOH)
 2. N-Methyloldimethyl Phosphonopropioamide
(PYROVATEX CP)
 3. Phosphonic and Phosphoric Acid Derivatives

45.
 Limiting oxygen index (loi)
Is the minimum concentration of
oxygen, expressed as a percentage, that will
support combustion of a polymer. It is measured
by passing a mixture of oxygen and nitrogen over
a burning specimen, and reducing the oxygen
level until a critical level is reached

46.
CALENDARING

47.
CALENDRING
 Calendaring is a process where fabric is compressed
by passing it between twoor more rolls under
controlled conditions of time, temperature and
pressure.
 It is a type of mechanical finish
 Produces different types of surface appearance
1. Simple calendering
2. Glazed calendering
3. Ciŕe calendering
4. Embossed calendering
5. Moiré calendering
6. Schreiner calendering

48.
OBJECTS OF CALENDERING
 To improve the fabric handle and to impart a
smooth silky touch to the fabric
 To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness
 To reduce the air permeability by closing the
threads
 To increase the luster
 To reduce the yarn slippage
 To increase the opacity of the fabric
 Surface patterning by embossing

49.
1. SIMPLE CALENDERING
 It is a high speed, high pressure pressing of fabric (100 yds /
min)
 The high pressure flattens the yarn
 Smoothen the fabric
 Increases fabric lustre (fabric cover increases and more
light is reflected)
 Used for woven plain or twill weaves
 Over-calendering however is to be avoided
 Yarns weakened out due to very high pressure
 It is a temporary finish
 Yarns return to its natural cross section after first
laundering

50.
2. GLAZED CALENDERING
 It is a calendering finish to produce highly glazed / shined
polished cotton
 The calender machine used is a friction calender
 One cylinder of highly polished steel cylinder rotating at
speed much higher than the fabric passing through it
 Fabrics are first treated with starches or resins before
calendering
 The spaces between the yarns are thus filled up and glazed
appearance is obtained
 Glazed calendering using starch are semi-durable
 Glazed calendering using resins are durable

51.
3. CIŔE CALENDERING
 It is a type of glazed calendering Here, the friction roller
rotates at speed much greater than ordinary friction calendering
 The resulatant fabric become highly lustrous and takes on a wet
lookCotton, rayon, polyester, nylon and blends can be given cire
finish
 Fabrics are however, treated with waxes and resins before
friction calendering
 Highly polished effect is produced
 When thermoplastic fabrics are ciŕe finished, they becomes
moderately water-repellent
 Due to flattening
 Due to partially fusing of fibres

52.
4. EMBOSSED CALENDERING
 It is a calendering in which a three-dimensional
design is created on a fabric
 This is done on a special embossing calender in
which the roller cylinder is engraved with the
embossing design
 The pattern is then pushed or shaped into the cloth
when the fabric passes between the rollers
 Some embossed fabrics are made to imitate more
costly woven jacquard or dobby designs

53.
 Embossed patterns of fabrics treated with
resins and cured after embossing are durable
 Embossing of fabrics of thermoplastic fibres are
permanent because the heated metal roll heat-
sets the design

54.
5. MOIRÉ CALENDERING
 The moiré finish produces a wood-grain design on the face size
of the fabric
 Moiré finish can be temporary, durable or permanent
 Cotton or rayon moiré finish is temporary without
pretreatment with resin
 Durable moiré finish requires initial resin treatment followed
by calendering
 Moiré finish on thermoplastic fiber fabrics are permanent if
a heated roller is used for calendering
 Methods of producing moiŕe
 Using engraved cylinder
 Using smooth calender roller

55.
 Using engraved cylinder
 In this case engraved roller is used on the calender roller
 Calender roller flattens one part of the fabric more than
other, causing different light reflectance
 The different light reflectance cause moire effect
 Definite repeat pattern moiŕe is produced
 Using smooth calender rollers
 Two fabrics, each face to face, are fed through the calender
 Ribbed fabrics are mainly required for this
 The high pressure on the calender rolls causes the rib to
squeeze into each other in certain areas
 Creates light reflectance pattern which produces moiŕe
effect
 The effect is completely random and has no specific pattern

56.
6. SCHREINER CALENDERING
 Schreiner calendering produces a low, soft-key lustre on the
fabric surface
 Distinct from the high glaze of the glazing calender or the
lustre shine of the simple calender
 To produce this effect, one of the steel cylinders of the
calender is embossed with fine diagonal lines. These embossing
are barely visible in naked eye
 Widely used on cotton & cotton/polyester sateen
 Schreiner calendering may be permanent, durable or temporary
finish
 Is permanent if the fibre is thermoplastic
 Is durable if the fabric is resin treated but not cured
 Is temporary if the fibre is non-thermoplastic and not
treated with resin

57.
FULLING
 During the traditional milling operation, fabrics of combed,
carded or blended wool (nonscoured, scoured or carbonised
and neutralised), at about 40°C, are soaked and in presence of
special surfactants, are subjected to continuous pressure both
in weft and warp direction. Under these conditions, wool
fibres tend to felt, thus causing fabric shrinkage and a
subsequent dynamic compacting. After this operation, the
material must be washed to remove dirty water and the
chemicals used.
 Fulling is a permanent finish
 Used in wool fabrics
 Gradual or progressive felting of wool
 Done by carefully and controlled scouring or laundering
 The resultant fulled fabric is more compact and more
smoother
 Woollens are frequently heavily fulled
 Fabrics of worsted are usually very lightly fulled

58.
MILLING MACHINES

59.
NAPPING
 It is a mechanical finish
 Fibres being raised from woven/knitted fabrics by
rotating, bristled, wire covered brushes
 Overall effect is a raised fibres from fabric surface
 Example: cotton flannel, rayon flannel, woollen and worsted
napped fabric like kersey, melton
 Napped fabrics have softer handle
 Better insulation properties due to more air entrapment
 Mainly used as blankets, winter clothing

60.
RAISING (NAPPING) MACHINE:
1: ROLLER; 2: ROLLERS EQUIPPED WITH HOOKS;
3: FABRIC;4: NIB CLEANING BRUSHES;5: FABRIC TENSION ADJUSTMENT

61.
RAISING THE FACE AND BACK OF THE FABRIC:
A) SCHEME; B) VIEW

62.
 Problems are
 Low resiliency and hence premature flattening occurs
 Nap can be partially restored by frequent brushing
 Subject to pilling
 Rapid wear at abrasive points (like sleeve
ends, elbows, button holes etc.)
 Not recommended for hard wear

63.
SUEDING
 It is a mechanical finish
 Similar to napping
 Produces a soft, suede-like surface
 Sand paper like material is used instead of
rotating wire covered cylinder

64.
PLISSÉ
 Plissé is the name of the finish as well as the fabric produced
with this finish
 Permanent and chemical finish
 Sodium hydroxide is printed on cotton fabric as a paste
 Fabric shrinks only where the sodium hydroxide is
applied, producing a puckered effect
 Plissé fabric do not require ironing
 When the sodium hydroxide is applied as lengthwise stripes, the
fabric puckers and takes on the appearance of seersucker

65.
Seersucker
 Lengthwise stripped puckered effect
 Produced by alternative stripes of loose and tight
warp yarns
 Plisse is a cheaper imitation of seersucker
 Plisse does not have that depth degree of pucker that
is common to seersucker
 Plisse puckers stretched out flat but seersucker do
not

66.
SHEARING
 A process to used to cut off surface fibers on
fabrics
 Uniforms the surface of napped fabrics to provide
uniform pile height
 High-speed cutting machine cuts the piles similar to
that of a lawn mower
 The blades in the machine are stationary and the
fabric moves through the cutting blade

67.
STIFFENING
 Some fabrics need to be made stiffer and more crisp as per as
the end use
 Stiffening agents are applied to the cloth to build up the
following properties
 To increase the weight of the fabric
 To improve the thickness
 To improve lustre
But, their effect is temporary and once the fabric is
washed, most of the finishes are removed

68.
STIFFENING
 Stiffening agents
 Starches – finishing of cotton cloth. Ex: potato , wheat, corn
 Dextrines – used for dyed and printed fabrics. No undue
effect on the dye or print.
 Natural gum – mainly used in printing as well as finishing
process
 Modified cellulose – CMC
 Resins
Acid stiffening
Fine yarn cotton fabrics can be finished to be both stiff and
transparent by a process known as acid stiffening. It involves rapid
immersion in sulphuric acid, followed by immediate neutralization in sodium
hydroxide. The finish is permanent. This finish is also known as Organdi
finish or Parchmentisation.

69.
SOFTENING
 Required for more pleasant hand and better
drapability
 Fabrics are harsher and stiffer because of their
construction or due to some prior finishing process
 Softening can be done by either mechanical or
chemical process
 Simple calendering softens hand, but it is temporary

70.
 Silicone compounds are used mostly as softner
 Silicone finish is a durable finish and require curing
 Different types of emulsified oils and waxes can be
used but they are semi-durable finish

71.
 Different types of softners
 Anionic softners
 Cationic softners
 Non-ionic softners
 Reactive softners
 Emulsion softners
 Silicon softners

72.
 Anionic softners
 This is not fast to wash
 Compatible with resin
 Used in temporary finish with starch and cationic
product
 Ex; Sulphonated oils, fatty alcohol sulphates etc.
 Non-ionic softners
 Have excellent stability against yellowing
 Not fast to dyeing
 No effect on in the shade of dyestuff

73.
 Cationic softners
 Substantive to cellulosic material
 Therefore, remain on cloth for few washes
 Produce yellowing on white fabrics
 Compatible with resins
 Reactive softners
 Durable softners
 React chemically with the –OH groups of cellulose
 High cost
 Yellowing of treated fabric
 Toxic

74.
 Emulsion softners
 Popular because it reduces the loss of tear strength on
resin finish
 Fast to washing
 Give fuller appearance
 Silicon softners
 Recently most used softners
 These are the manmade polymers based on the frame
work of alternate silicon and oxygen bonds with organic
substituents attached to silicone

75.
MECHANICAL SOFTENING MACHINE

76.
SOIL RELEASE FINISH

77.
SOIL RELEASE FINISH
 How??
 Making the fibres more absorbent (hydrophilic)
 Permitting better wettability for improved soil removal
 Done by using hydrophilic finishes
 Facilitates soil release during washing
 Prevent soil redeposition
 Also, reduce static charge by maintaining moisture on the
fabric surface
 Thus soil attraction during wear can be reduced
 Mainly observed in polyester fabrics

78.
SOIL RELEASE FINISH
 What is soiling of textiles?
 Textile material getting attracted to dirt or soil
 Development of static charge electricity to
hydrophilic textiles, making them prone to soiling
 Re-deposition of soil during washing
 The soils cannot be readily removed
 Hydrophobic materials are not wetted properly
during laundering

79.
SOIL RELEASE FINISH
 What is soiling of textiles?
 Soil release finish is a chemical finish
 This permit easy removal of soil with ordinary laundering
 Hydrophilic fibres and fabrics with resin finish are not easily wet able
 Hence, stains of oily nature are not removed easily
 Soil release finish increases the hydrophilicity of the material and
increases wetability
 Soil release finish also improves the antistatic properties, fabric
drapability and comfort

80.
WRINKLE RESISTANT FINISH

81.
WRINKLE RESISTANCE FINISH
 The ability of the fabric to resist the formation of crease or wrinkle
when slightly squeezed is known as ‘crease resistance’ fabrics
 The ability of a fabric to recover from a definite degree from creasing is
called crease recovery
 Finish to reduce the undue wrinkles on fabric or garments
 Cotton, rayon and flax are more susceptible to wrinkle
 Wrinkle occurs due to the hydrogen bonds of the cellulosic molecules in
the amorphous region
 Due to application of heat or moisture, the hydrogen bond breaks and new
hydrogen bond occurs at new dimension
 Therefore wrinkling can be reduced if the hydrogen bond formation can
be reduced

82.
 Formaldehyde
 DMU ( Di-methylol urea)
 DMEU (Di-methylol ethylene urea)
 DMDHEU (Di-methylol di-hydroxyl ethylene
urea)
 Modified DMDHEU (Di-methylol di-hydroxyl
ethylene urea)

83.
APPLICATION TECHNIQUE
 Dry Process
 The classic process: the fabric is impregnated by
means of a padding unit (the quantity of finishis
tuned by modifying the liquor concentration and the
squeezing ratio) and dried at 100-120 °C in a stenter.
 The cross-linking process occurs in the stenter, at
temperatures varying according to the type of cross-
linking agent used (generally 4-5 minutes at 150-160
°C).
 Double treatment: the fabric is impregnated with a
softener and dried at 100- 130 °C.

84.
HUMID PROCESS
 The fabric is wetted by means of a padding unit
with a cross-linking agent and a catalyst solution;
 Then 6-8% of residual moisture is removed from
cotton (or 10-15% from other staple goods.) The
fabric is then wound up on a roll, covered with a
polyethylene sheet and left 16-24 hours to rest
at ambient temperature.
 Strong catalysts must be used for this process.
 The final effect depends on the residual
moisture: in case of low residual moisture
content, the results will be similar to those
obtained with the dry process whereas if the
residual moisture content is high, the result is
very similar to the cross-linking effect on wet
substrates.

85.
FRAGRANCE FINISH

86.
FRAGRANCE FINISH
 Microencapsulation is a useful method for protecting various
functional finishes on textiles. As the capsules do not have
affinity to fabrics, a binder should be used to fix the
capsules for the purpose of finish durability.
 Conventional fixation is a thermal process, in which a fabric is
cured at 130-170°C for 1-10 minutes to make the components
of the binder cross-link together, and tightly fix capsules on
the fabric.
 During curing, however, the aroma inside capsules can be lost
through quick evaporation and swelling to escape or break the
capsule. The loss from capsules can seriously reduce the
amount of aroma on the fabric and decrease the durability.
 An aroma capsule finished cotton fabric treated by a thermal
curing process can only bear 25 wash cycles. To avoid the
thermal process, an UV resin can be used to fix capsules
because the resin can be cured under UV light at low
temperatures in seconds. If a cotton fabric is finished with
the selected aroma capsule and UV resin, and cured under the
optimal conditions, the aroma function can withstand 50 wash
cycles. Whiteness and stiffness of the finished fabrics were
also examined.

87.
ANTISTATIC FINISH

88.
ANTISTATIC FINISH
 Synthetic fibres of hydrophobic nature are prone to generation
of static charges
 This problem is very troublesome while processing the fabric at
high speed in dry state
 Antistatic agents are used
 Antistatic agents absorb small amount of moisture from the
atmosphere, thus reducing the dryness of the fabric
 Antistatic finishes are semi-durable
 Washes out at several launderings or drycleanings
 Permanent antistatic effects are obtainable manufactured
fibres which are specially modified for this purpose (Ex: Antron
III nylon fibre by Dupont & Cadon nylon fibres by Monsanto)

89.
Pilling

90.
 Anti-pilling finishes:
 Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics.
 Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface
of fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross
section and due to their higher tensile strength and
abrasion resistance, the pills formed take a long time to be
abraded by wear.
 With knit fabric, two more problems occur, viz., "picking"
where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out
of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a
pointed or rough object.

91.
• Permanent Anti-static effects:
• Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static
charge build up & give a natural feel.
• Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert
and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing
on polyester goods.
• In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good
soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static
effect.
• Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being
curable at moderate temperatures

92.
• Non-Slip finishes:
• Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics
are particularly prone to slip because of their surface
smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and
appearance is no loner attractive.
• To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a
rougher surface.
• Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are
quite useful and they are used with advantage in
combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to
get more permanent effect along with simultaneous
improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging.
• These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft
and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting
water repellency

93.
WASHES
 Alters the look by different washing procedures
 Mainly used for denim and similar items to have a faded
and worn appearance
 Have different methods
 Stone washing
 Acid washing
 Enzyme washing

94.
 Stone wash
 Stone washing transforms a new unworn garments into
used-looking faded garments
 Done in garment form
 Pumice stone are used
 No chemicals are used for fading
 Pumice stone are added to the laundry with the
garments which abrade the garment
 Worn look
 Faded colour
 The garment also become softer and obtain a casual
look

95.
 Acid wash
 No acid is used
 Pumice stones are soaked with oxidising bleaching
agent (sodium hypochlorite)
 Also known as ‘frosting’ or ‘ice washing’
 The other procedure is same as that of the stone
wash

96.
 Enzyme wash
 Cellulase is used
 Added to pumice stone or can be used separately
 While using pumice stone soaked with enzyme the garment
is laundered with the pumice stone
 The cellulase attacks and weakens the cellulosic fibre
 The surface colour of the denim comes out and colour fades
off

97.
ROT PROOFING OF CELLULOSE
 Cellulosic fibres are made up of carbohydrate
which is a food for fungi and microorganisms
 The attack of these organism on the cellulosic
materials cause rottening of them
 To protect the cellulosic materials from such
hazards rot-proof finishes are applied on cotton
 Organo-lead componds
 Advantages
 It does not affect the handle of the fabric
 It retains 100% of the fabric strength
 It does not discolour the fabric

98.
 Hg containing antibacterial agents
 Can be used in cotton as well as other cellulosic materials