The guide provides detailed instructions on placing and cutting fabric pattern pieces, including how to align the grain line parallel to the selvage and the use of markings like dots and notches for seam matching. It also covers various fabric folds, cutting layouts, and specific sewing instructions to facilitate the sewing process. Key elements include seam allowances, placement for darts, and how to maximize fabric usage by following layout diagrams.

1. Understanding The Guide
Sheet

2. Grain Line
Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the
fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly
parallel to the selvage.
Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray.
Use tape measure to make sure grain line is parallel
to selvage when pinning pattern in place.

3. Place on fold/Fold line
Double arrowed bracket symbol that indicates the
solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric.
Usually seen at center front or back.

4. Dots, Squares, or Triangles
 Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what
to sew together and where.
 They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing
like sleeves.
 May be within garment piece to indicate placement
of details like pockets or zippers.

5. Notches
 Used for matching seams and joining garment
pieces.
 Should extend beyond the cutting line.
Garment
Cut

6. Double & Triple Notches
 Cut them as one long block
Garment
Cut

7.  On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as
triangles.
 These notches should be cut out and away or with
tiny snips to indicate where the notches are located.

8. Stitching line
 Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line.
 Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together
 Seam allowance – distance between stitching line
and cutting line.
 “Stitch” on the guide sheet means the standard
seam allowance of 5/8”. If it is another seam
allowance it will tell you.
 Will not be indicated on multi-sized patterns.
Seam allowance

9. Darts
 Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness.
 Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines.
Stitching Line
Fold Line

10. Adjustment lines
 Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or
shortened.
Shorten or lengthen here

11. Additional Information
On each pattern piece you will find:
 Number of pieces to cut
 Pattern piece name/number or letter
 Size
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

12. Guide Sheet
Gives you step-by-step information for cutting,
marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together.
Main sections of the guide sheet are view selection,
cutting layouts and sewing instructions.
In the cutting layout section, you will find the “Use
pieces” information to determine which pattern
pieces go with which view to be constructed.
Also included are sketches and special information.

13. Sketch of
garment
Sketch of
Pattern pieces
Special
instructions
Cutting Layout
Pieces to use for
Each design

14. Select your layout
diagram based on
the view you are
making, your fabric
width, fabric type,
and size.
Circle the layout for
easy reference.Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

15. Fabric Grains
Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray
Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the
selvage, strongest threads.
Crosswise grain – runs across fabric
from one selvage to the other,
usually has slight stretch.
Bias – runs diagonally across the
fabric. Has the most stretch.
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

16. Fabric Folds
Lengthwise fold
 Fold fabric in half lengthwise
with right sides together.
 As fabric comes off bolt at
store
 Fold should form cut/raw edge
to cut/raw edge.
 “Hot Dog Fold”
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

17. Crosswise Fold
Fold fabric in half crosswise
with right sides together.
Fold should be from selvage
to selvage.
“Hamburger Fold”
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

18. Center/Double Fold
Fold fabric twice along the
lengthwise grain, right
sides together.
Selvages should meet in the
middle
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

19. Partial Fold
Fold fabric on the
lengthwise grain, right
sides together, only
wide enough to fit the
widest pattern piece
that is to be placed on
fold.
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

20. Placement of Pattern Pieces
Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on
first.
Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric.
Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut.
Follow layout diagram exactly to maximize fabric use.
When a pattern piece is shaded, that indicates it should be
placed printed side down.
Simplicity Pattern

21. Placement of Pattern Pieces
Pattern pieces should be pinned perpendicular to the cutting
edge every 6” – 8”. More pins may be required in curved
areas.
Cut out pieces using long, smooth strokes to avoid jagged
edges.
Leave pattern pieces attached to fabric until ready to sew.
Transfer dots/squares and dart markings using the marking
method of your choice.
Simplicity Pattern

22. Sewing instructions
Follow the sequence exactly
Read the written directions.
Review the pictorial directions.
Refer to the special sewing information.
Simplicity Pattern