Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage.
Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray.
Use tape measure to make sure grain line is parallel to selvage when pinning pattern in place.
Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what to sew together and where.
They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing like sleeves.
May be within garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.
Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what to sew together and where.
They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing like sleeves.
May be within garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.
Dots, Squares, or Triangles
Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what to sew together and where.
They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing like sleeves.
May be within garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers
2. Grain Line
Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the
fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly
parallel to the selvage.
Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray.
Use tape measure to make sure grain line is parallel
to selvage when pinning pattern in place.
3. Place on fold/Fold line
Double arrowed bracket symbol that indicates the
solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric.
Usually seen at center front or back.
4. Dots, Squares, or Triangles
Used to match fabric pieces together – show us what
to sew together and where.
They are especially helpful in areas requiring easing
like sleeves.
May be within garment piece to indicate placement
of details like pockets or zippers.
5. Notches
Used for matching seams and joining garment
pieces.
Should extend beyond the cutting line.
Garment
Cut
6. Double & Triple Notches
Cut them as one long block
Garment
Cut
7. On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as
triangles.
These notches should be cut out and away or with
tiny snips to indicate where the notches are located.
8. Stitching line
Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line.
Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together
Seam allowance – distance between stitching line
and cutting line.
“Stitch” on the guide sheet means the standard
seam allowance of 5/8”. If it is another seam
allowance it will tell you.
Will not be indicated on multi-sized patterns.
Seam allowance
9. Darts
Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness.
Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines.
Stitching Line
Fold Line
11. Additional Information
On each pattern piece you will find:
Number of pieces to cut
Pattern piece name/number or letter
Size
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
12. Guide Sheet
Gives you step-by-step information for cutting,
marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together.
Main sections of the guide sheet are view selection,
cutting layouts and sewing instructions.
In the cutting layout section, you will find the “Use
pieces” information to determine which pattern
pieces go with which view to be constructed.
Also included are sketches and special information.
14. Select your layout
diagram based on
the view you are
making, your fabric
width, fabric type,
and size.
Circle the layout for
easy reference.Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
15. Fabric Grains
Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray
Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the
selvage, strongest threads.
Crosswise grain – runs across fabric
from one selvage to the other,
usually has slight stretch.
Bias – runs diagonally across the
fabric. Has the most stretch.
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
16. Fabric Folds
Lengthwise fold
Fold fabric in half lengthwise
with right sides together.
As fabric comes off bolt at
store
Fold should form cut/raw edge
to cut/raw edge.
“Hot Dog Fold”
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
17. Crosswise Fold
Fold fabric in half crosswise
with right sides together.
Fold should be from selvage
to selvage.
“Hamburger Fold”
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
18. Center/Double Fold
Fold fabric twice along the
lengthwise grain, right
sides together.
Selvages should meet in the
middle
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
19. Partial Fold
Fold fabric on the
lengthwise grain, right
sides together, only
wide enough to fit the
widest pattern piece
that is to be placed on
fold.
Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book
20. Placement of Pattern Pieces
Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on
first.
Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric.
Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut.
Follow layout diagram exactly to maximize fabric use.
When a pattern piece is shaded, that indicates it should be
placed printed side down.
Simplicity Pattern
21. Placement of Pattern Pieces
Pattern pieces should be pinned perpendicular to the cutting
edge every 6” – 8”. More pins may be required in curved
areas.
Cut out pieces using long, smooth strokes to avoid jagged
edges.
Leave pattern pieces attached to fabric until ready to sew.
Transfer dots/squares and dart markings using the marking
method of your choice.
Simplicity Pattern
22. Sewing instructions
Follow the sequence exactly
Read the written directions.
Review the pictorial directions.
Refer to the special sewing information.
Simplicity Pattern