A guidesheet contains all processes for garment construction in a booklet. It shows the order of work, helps estimate time, and ensures all materials are included. The guidesheet includes front and back views, a pattern layout, construction processes, and materials. The pattern layout estimates fabric needs and prepares for cutting. Fabric is prepared by straightening the grain, preshrinking, identifying faults, and pressing before patterns are laid out and cut according to the guidesheet instructions.

1. Guidesheet
 Booklet that contains all processes
included in garment construction.

2. Importance of a Guidesheet
 Shows how work has been organised
 Shows sequence or order of work in
construction
 Helps to estimate amount of time and
skill you will require to complete each
unit
 Used to check if you have included all
materials you need in the construction
of your garment

3. Contents of a Guidesheet
 Front and back view of the garment
 Pattern Layout
 Unit Construction processes
 Materials required to complete your
garment

4. Front and Back View
 Shows how the garment will appear
both from front and back
Front View Back View

5. Parts of a Fabric

6. Pattern Layout
 Is a figure or sketch that shows how
pattern pieces are going to be laid on the
fabric before cutting
 In garment construction, pattern layout is
done twice
◦ First done to estimate amount of fabric required for
a garment
◦ Second is done in readiness for cutting out

7. How to determine amount of fabric for
Garment Construction
 Select width of fabric (90 – 200 cm)
 Mark amount on any flat surface such as
table or floor
 Place paper patterns on the marked
surface noting place on fold and other
pattern markings
 Allow space for cutting

8. How to determine amount of fabric for
Garment Construction
 Work out amount required by measuring the
covered length on the flat surface
 Lengthwise fold layout:
◦ The require amount of fabric is the length along
the selvedge edges
 Crosswise fold layout:
◦ Amount is equal to the length along the selvedge
edge multiply by two
 Record the number of centimetres required
plus 12 cm.

9. Lengthwise Fold Layout

10. Crosswise Fold

11. Unit Construction Processes
 Involves procedure for assembling the
pattern pieces e.g.
 Join bodice front and back on the
shoulder
 Join front and back on side seam
 Attach collar to bodice
 Attach sleeve to bodice
 Join side seams of skirt
 Attach skirt to bodice etc

12. Material Required
 A piece of fabric (What type)
 Is it polyester, cotton or what?)
 Sewing thread
 Buttons
 Sewing needles
 Interfacing etc

13. Guidelines for Selecting Fabric
 Fabric should be firm and of medium weight
 Choose fabric that will enable you to identify
grain easily
 Choose fabric with solid colour and small
designs
 Fabric that will enhance and express the
design you have chosen
 Note fiber content and special finish
 Note width of fabric so that you can buy
enough
 Check for powdery dust on fabric as this
indicates sizing (Washing removes the size

14. Preparation of Fabric for Cutting
 Straightening grain of fabric
 Pre-shrinking
 Identifying faults
 Pressing

15. Preparation of Fabric for Cutting:
Straightening of the Grain
Check if cut ends are straight
Pull the weft threads so that they
should run from selvedge to
selvedge
 Fold fabric lengthwise so that
selvedges match. If they do not
match, the fabric is off grain

16. Preparation of Fabric for Cutting:
Straightening of the Grain
 Hold shorter corner and the opposite
corner and pull in the bias direction till
the selvedges match.
 It is important to straighten the grain of
the fabric so as
◦ To cut all pieces on the straight grain of
fabric
◦ The completed garment hangs well on
the body

17. Preparation of Fabric for Cutting:
Preshrinking
 Soak in lukewarm water for at least 30
minutes
 Drip dry the fabric
 Preshrinking prevents the fabric from
shrinking after first washing

18. Preparation of Fabric for Cutting:
Identifying Faults
 Identify and mark faults on a fabric using
pins or tailors chalk
 Removing faulty areas enables the
designer to create a garment that is fault
free

19. Preparation of Fabric for Cutting:
Pressing
Press using a slightly hot iron to
remove creases or folds.
Pressing creates smooth stitching
lines

20. Guidelines for Laying Out a Pattern
Select appropriate layout on the
guide sheet
Fold fabric according to the layout
Right side of fabric is usually inside
and unless you want to follow some
pattern arrangement

21. Guidelines for Laying Out a Pattern
 Place paper patterns considering
◦ pattern arrangement
◦ Grain of fabric or place on fold
◦ Number of pieces to be cut
 Pin through both pieces of fabric
◦ Pin diagonally first in the corners
◦ Then pin along the edges.
 The pins should be 6 mm away from the
cutting line

22. Cutting Out
Support the fabric with the left
hand and cutout with the right
hand
Makes you cut all the pieces you
will need
Transfer pattern markings to the
fabric while the patterns are still

23. Transferring Pattern Markings
 Choose appropriate marking techniques
so that pattern marks appear on the
fabric e.g.
◦ Chalk or pencil on plain material and
tracing wheel and carbon paper on
printed materials
◦ Tailors tacking can also be used on
both plain and printed materials