TOOLS,MATERIALSAND
E
Q
UIPMENTUSEDINSEWING
FE H. MIRARZA
A.MEASURING TOOLS
Tape Measure
1.Tape Measure
A flexible measuring device
used in taking body
measurements. The front has
the measurement of 150
centimeters and 60 inches on
the other side. Fiberglass tape is
commonly used by dressmakers
.
SEWING GAUGE
2.SEWING GAUGE.
A small ruler with a sliding guide
and is about six inches long. This
gauge is used for measurements at
hem lines, button holes and areas
where other small measurements
require checking such as pleats and
tucks. The gauge is usually made of
metal or plastic.
RULER
• 3. Ruler
•A ruler measuring 12 inches or even 18
inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful tool
to have for measuring and drawing straight
seam lines and cutting lines.It also aids in
connecting lines.A clear ruler is also a good
tool for marking buttonholes.
YARDSTICK
4. Yardstick
• A yardstick is made of smooth,
shellacked hardwood or metal.
It is used for marking
hemlines and checking
grainlines when laying out the
pattern.
L-SQ UARE
10. L-Square
•The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer
measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides the
garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect
squares and is useful in making straight lines and
numbers. It can also function as a tape measure. It has
two arms connected perpendicularly.
• a. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
• b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.
•This is perfect for squaring and for drawing perpendicular
lines. It is also made of aluminum so you should never have to
buy a new one.
FRENCH CURVE
6. French Curve
•This is a great tool to have. It is made of
aluminum so it will last forever
. It is great
for armholes, necklines, or any sharp curve.
•This is used to shape the depth of the
neck hole and armhole of the pattern.
A.CUTTING TOOLS
Bent-handled dressmaker’s
shears
These are made of quality steel and hold a
sharp cutting edge. The blades move
easily and cut smoothly along the entire
length and the points should come
together. Shears have the length of 7- 12
inches and are satisfactory for most
apparel fabrics.
a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for
heavy duty cutting
b. Stainless steel blades and plastic
handles are fine for
lightweight fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears give maximum
cutting control and used for synthetic .
2.PINKING SHEARS
PINKING SHEARS
This is popular in zigzagging
or scalloped edge or for seam
finishes. This is used to finish
seams and raw edges and to
create decorative edges on
many types of fabric. It cuts a
ravel-resistant edge. This is
not satisfactory for straight
cutting.
3. CUTTING SCISSORS
PINKING SHEARS
A.Trimming scissor
It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings,
clipping threads and snipping slashes.
B.EMBROIDERY SCISSOR
It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points
are sharp for use in working with fine details in
delicate fabrics and in embroidery
C. Buttonhole scissor
This is intended for making buttonholes.
THREAD CLIPPERS
2. THREAD CLIPPERS
are a handy little spring-
loaded cutting tool that
allows for the snipping of
threads. These clippers
are specifically used to
snip threads and they are
not designed to cut fabric.
SEAM RIPPER
•Seam rippers are specifically
designed for ripping out stitches
from seams, either because of an
error or during alterations. They
should be used carefully to
prevent damage to the fabric.
TAILOR’S CHALK
This is essential as a
marker for use on
materials.
Tailor ‘s chalk is
available in a range of
colors and is removed
by brushing.
TRACING WHEEL
Tracing Wheel
•This is a great tool for tracing your pattern onto another piece of
paper so that you do not ruin your original. It’s also good for
transferring markings from one pattern piece to another.
•There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated
edge and those with a smooth edge. The serrated edge wheel
produces dots on the fabric and is suitable for most types of
fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and
unlike the serrated edge will not pierce more delicate fabrics.
The smooth edge wheel creates a solid line.
Dressmaker’s
Carbon Paper
Dressmaker’s carbon
paper also called
dressmaker ‘s tracing
paper is a specially waxed
carbon paper that
transfers the tracing wheel
markings to the fabric
PINNING TOOLS/
SEWING TOOLS
A pincushion holds
the straight pins
and needles while
working to prevent
accidents.
Hand Needle
Used in making
temporary stitches
and buttonholes.
Sizes of 7 to 10 are
for general hand
sewing.
Thimble
A small hard pitted cup worn
for protection on the finger
that pushes the needle in
sewing.
Sewing Needle Threader
It aids in putting the thread to
the needle. It consists of two
parts. The handle and the wire.
The end of the wire that is away
from the holder is folded. Place
the folded wire of the needle
threader through the eye of the
sewing needle.
MATERIALS
• FABRIC
•is the cloth used in making
garments. The plain cotton
fabrics, flour sack or catcha is
the most appropriate material for
beginners because these are
very easy to handle.
THREAD
• is used in assembling or
constructing the parts of
the garment. Threads
vary in sizes. Heavy
fabrics need stronger
threads. Threads should
have the same color with
that of the fabric used.
TYPESOF
SEWING MACHINE
FE H. MIRARZA
ERASER
5. Eraser
•Used of appropriate eraser does
not rip or tear your paper and it
leaves a clean surface with no trace of
your erased line.
ERASER
5. Eraser
•Used of appropriate eraser does
not rip or tear your paper and it
leaves a clean surface with no trace of
your erased line.
ERASER
5. Eraser
•Used of appropriate eraser does
not rip or tear your paper and it
leaves a clean surface with no trace of
your erased line.
ERASER
5. Eraser
•Used of appropriate eraser does
not rip or tear your paper and it
leaves a clean surface with no trace of
your erased line.
ERASER
5. Eraser
•Used of appropriate eraser does
not rip or tear your paper and it
leaves a clean surface with no trace of
your erased line.
ERASER
5. Eraser
•Used of appropriate eraser does
not rip or tear your paper and it
leaves a clean surface with no trace of
your erased line.
TAPE MEASURE
6. Tape Measure
•Use it for the obvious- to take your measurements or your
client’sor family member’s measurements.A tape measure can
also be used to measure curved areas on your pattern like an
armhole or neckline.A flexible measuring device used in taking
body measurements.
•The front has the measurement of 150 centimeters and 60
inches on
•the other side.Fiberglass tape is commonly used by
dressmakers.
SCISSORS OR ROTARY CUTTER
7. Scissors or Rotary Cutter
•Use either your scissors or rotary
cutter for cutting out your pattern.Y
ou
do not have to have both. Keep in mind
that a rotary cutter requires a cutting
mat which can be an additional cost.
PATTERN PAPER
8. Pattern Paper
•White banner paper roll can be found
at office supply stores like Staples and
Office Depot. It’s24-30 inches wide and
65-72 feet long,depending on where
you buy it.
•Brown pattern paper or manila paper
available in sheets are commonly used.
HIP CURVE
• 11. A Hip curve is a
large French curve that
aids in pattern making
by providing an
elongated, curved edg
e for smoothing and
correcting pattern lines.
DRESSMAKER’S
CARBON PAPER
• 13. Dressmaker‘s carbon paper also
called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a
specially waxed carbon paper that
transfers the tracing wheel‘s markings
to the fabric.A color of tracing paper
should be chosen that is close to the
color of the fabric.T
racing paper have
different instructions;therefore,the
instructions for the particular brand
that is purchased should be followed.
SEWING PATTERN SYMBOLS
• Sewing pattern symbols are used to help you achieve
accurate results when cutting, matching pieces and
sewing. They do vary slightly between designers but
these are some universally used sewing symbols to help
you get started.
1. GRAIN LINES
•These double-ended arrows tell you to place the pattern piece
parallel to the selvage. Measure from the top and bottom of the
arrow and ensure they are equal distances from the selvage. For
example, if the top of the arrow is 4 inches (10cm) from the
selvage, the bottom of the arrow should also be 4 inches from the
selvage.
2. FOLD LINES
•This symbol rectangular sewing pattern symbol has one open side and
means place on the fold. Place your pattern piece on the folded edge of
the fabric, making sure the selvages are even on the other side. If you
are adding seam allowances, you do not add any to fold lines. Cutting on
the fold ensures your pieces are completely symmetrical and is often a
good way to minimize the fabric consumption.
•Triangles and diamonds are called
notches and indicate you need to mark
these points to enable you to match up
the pattern when sewing. Notches can be
single, double and colored or open.
4.BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLES
•Indicate button and buttonhole positions. The sewing pattern symbols of a long
bar with vertical ends represent the size and position of the buttonhole and a
cross is common for the button sewing position.
5. DOTS, SQUARES AND SHAPES
•All shapes need to be transferred onto your fabric and are used for matching
up pattern pieces and adding details. You can transfer with tailors tacks, chalk
or removable pen.
6. ADJUSTMENT LINES (LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINES)
• These are double lines which are normally accompanied by the
words lengthen or shorten here. These are quite common
in sewing leotards and pants where length matters.
7. STITCHING LINES
•Stitching lines are not generally found on multi-sized
patterns but on single sized patterns they are represented
by dotted lines. Generally, there is no need to transfer
these lines onto your fabric.
8. DARTS
•Shown as a dotted triangle or diamond, these show you
where to stitch to add shape in areas such as the bust
and waist.

#2 Tools and Symbols in Pattern Drafting PPT.pptx

  • 1.
  • 2.
    A.MEASURING TOOLS Tape Measure 1.TapeMeasure A flexible measuring device used in taking body measurements. The front has the measurement of 150 centimeters and 60 inches on the other side. Fiberglass tape is commonly used by dressmakers .
  • 3.
    SEWING GAUGE 2.SEWING GAUGE. Asmall ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches long. This gauge is used for measurements at hem lines, button holes and areas where other small measurements require checking such as pleats and tucks. The gauge is usually made of metal or plastic.
  • 4.
    RULER • 3. Ruler •Aruler measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful tool to have for measuring and drawing straight seam lines and cutting lines.It also aids in connecting lines.A clear ruler is also a good tool for marking buttonholes.
  • 5.
    YARDSTICK 4. Yardstick • Ayardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal. It is used for marking hemlines and checking grainlines when laying out the pattern.
  • 6.
    L-SQ UARE 10. L-Square •Thetailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides the garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers. It can also function as a tape measure. It has two arms connected perpendicularly. • a. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long. • b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long. •This is perfect for squaring and for drawing perpendicular lines. It is also made of aluminum so you should never have to buy a new one.
  • 7.
    FRENCH CURVE 6. FrenchCurve •This is a great tool to have. It is made of aluminum so it will last forever . It is great for armholes, necklines, or any sharp curve. •This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and armhole of the pattern.
  • 8.
    A.CUTTING TOOLS Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears Theseare made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should come together. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics. a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight fabrics c. A serrated edge shears give maximum cutting control and used for synthetic .
  • 9.
    2.PINKING SHEARS PINKING SHEARS Thisis popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams and raw edges and to create decorative edges on many types of fabric. It cuts a ravel-resistant edge. This is not satisfactory for straight cutting.
  • 10.
    3. CUTTING SCISSORS PINKINGSHEARS A.Trimming scissor It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping slashes. B.EMBROIDERY SCISSOR It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in working with fine details in delicate fabrics and in embroidery C. Buttonhole scissor This is intended for making buttonholes.
  • 11.
    THREAD CLIPPERS 2. THREADCLIPPERS are a handy little spring- loaded cutting tool that allows for the snipping of threads. These clippers are specifically used to snip threads and they are not designed to cut fabric.
  • 12.
    SEAM RIPPER •Seam rippersare specifically designed for ripping out stitches from seams, either because of an error or during alterations. They should be used carefully to prevent damage to the fabric.
  • 13.
    TAILOR’S CHALK This isessential as a marker for use on materials. Tailor ‘s chalk is available in a range of colors and is removed by brushing.
  • 14.
    TRACING WHEEL Tracing Wheel •Thisis a great tool for tracing your pattern onto another piece of paper so that you do not ruin your original. It’s also good for transferring markings from one pattern piece to another. •There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated edge and those with a smooth edge. The serrated edge wheel produces dots on the fabric and is suitable for most types of fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and unlike the serrated edge will not pierce more delicate fabrics. The smooth edge wheel creates a solid line.
  • 15.
    Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper Dressmaker’s carbon paperalso called dressmaker ‘s tracing paper is a specially waxed carbon paper that transfers the tracing wheel markings to the fabric
  • 16.
    PINNING TOOLS/ SEWING TOOLS Apincushion holds the straight pins and needles while working to prevent accidents.
  • 17.
    Hand Needle Used inmaking temporary stitches and buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand sewing.
  • 18.
    Thimble A small hardpitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.
  • 19.
    Sewing Needle Threader Itaids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of two parts. The handle and the wire. The end of the wire that is away from the holder is folded. Place the folded wire of the needle threader through the eye of the sewing needle.
  • 20.
    MATERIALS • FABRIC •is thecloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics, flour sack or catcha is the most appropriate material for beginners because these are very easy to handle.
  • 21.
    THREAD • is usedin assembling or constructing the parts of the garment. Threads vary in sizes. Heavy fabrics need stronger threads. Threads should have the same color with that of the fabric used.
  • 22.
  • 23.
    ERASER 5. Eraser •Used ofappropriate eraser does not rip or tear your paper and it leaves a clean surface with no trace of your erased line.
  • 24.
    ERASER 5. Eraser •Used ofappropriate eraser does not rip or tear your paper and it leaves a clean surface with no trace of your erased line.
  • 25.
    ERASER 5. Eraser •Used ofappropriate eraser does not rip or tear your paper and it leaves a clean surface with no trace of your erased line.
  • 26.
    ERASER 5. Eraser •Used ofappropriate eraser does not rip or tear your paper and it leaves a clean surface with no trace of your erased line.
  • 27.
    ERASER 5. Eraser •Used ofappropriate eraser does not rip or tear your paper and it leaves a clean surface with no trace of your erased line.
  • 28.
    ERASER 5. Eraser •Used ofappropriate eraser does not rip or tear your paper and it leaves a clean surface with no trace of your erased line.
  • 29.
    TAPE MEASURE 6. TapeMeasure •Use it for the obvious- to take your measurements or your client’sor family member’s measurements.A tape measure can also be used to measure curved areas on your pattern like an armhole or neckline.A flexible measuring device used in taking body measurements. •The front has the measurement of 150 centimeters and 60 inches on •the other side.Fiberglass tape is commonly used by dressmakers.
  • 30.
    SCISSORS OR ROTARYCUTTER 7. Scissors or Rotary Cutter •Use either your scissors or rotary cutter for cutting out your pattern.Y ou do not have to have both. Keep in mind that a rotary cutter requires a cutting mat which can be an additional cost.
  • 31.
    PATTERN PAPER 8. PatternPaper •White banner paper roll can be found at office supply stores like Staples and Office Depot. It’s24-30 inches wide and 65-72 feet long,depending on where you buy it. •Brown pattern paper or manila paper available in sheets are commonly used.
  • 32.
    HIP CURVE • 11.A Hip curve is a large French curve that aids in pattern making by providing an elongated, curved edg e for smoothing and correcting pattern lines.
  • 33.
    DRESSMAKER’S CARBON PAPER • 13.Dressmaker‘s carbon paper also called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a specially waxed carbon paper that transfers the tracing wheel‘s markings to the fabric.A color of tracing paper should be chosen that is close to the color of the fabric.T racing paper have different instructions;therefore,the instructions for the particular brand that is purchased should be followed.
  • 35.
    SEWING PATTERN SYMBOLS •Sewing pattern symbols are used to help you achieve accurate results when cutting, matching pieces and sewing. They do vary slightly between designers but these are some universally used sewing symbols to help you get started.
  • 36.
    1. GRAIN LINES •Thesedouble-ended arrows tell you to place the pattern piece parallel to the selvage. Measure from the top and bottom of the arrow and ensure they are equal distances from the selvage. For example, if the top of the arrow is 4 inches (10cm) from the selvage, the bottom of the arrow should also be 4 inches from the selvage.
  • 37.
    2. FOLD LINES •Thissymbol rectangular sewing pattern symbol has one open side and means place on the fold. Place your pattern piece on the folded edge of the fabric, making sure the selvages are even on the other side. If you are adding seam allowances, you do not add any to fold lines. Cutting on the fold ensures your pieces are completely symmetrical and is often a good way to minimize the fabric consumption.
  • 38.
    •Triangles and diamondsare called notches and indicate you need to mark these points to enable you to match up the pattern when sewing. Notches can be single, double and colored or open.
  • 39.
    4.BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLES •Indicatebutton and buttonhole positions. The sewing pattern symbols of a long bar with vertical ends represent the size and position of the buttonhole and a cross is common for the button sewing position.
  • 40.
    5. DOTS, SQUARESAND SHAPES •All shapes need to be transferred onto your fabric and are used for matching up pattern pieces and adding details. You can transfer with tailors tacks, chalk or removable pen.
  • 41.
    6. ADJUSTMENT LINES(LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINES) • These are double lines which are normally accompanied by the words lengthen or shorten here. These are quite common in sewing leotards and pants where length matters.
  • 42.
    7. STITCHING LINES •Stitchinglines are not generally found on multi-sized patterns but on single sized patterns they are represented by dotted lines. Generally, there is no need to transfer these lines onto your fabric.
  • 43.
    8. DARTS •Shown asa dotted triangle or diamond, these show you where to stitch to add shape in areas such as the bust and waist.