Pattern grading is the process of adjusting a base size pattern to create additional sizes. This can be done manually or digitally. There are three main grading methods: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading. Grading determines how garments will fit across different sizes and allows targeting a range of customers. It involves systematically increasing or decreasing key measurements according to established grading rules. Proper grading is essential for effective apparel manufacturing.
This presentation was made to have an elaborate sense of fabric spreading. Different types of fabric spreading and the pros and cons of different fabric spreading is illustrated into the presentation.
4 Point Fabric Inspection System in Textile IndustryMd. Sirajul Islam
The most popular system for fabric inspection is 4 point system. Its very easy process. ASTM defines- It is a Standard Test Method for Visual Inspecting and Grading Fabrics.
Seam And its Classification with seam problemSadia Textile
Like Comment And download.
What is Seam?
A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.
Properties of good seam are,
= Smooth fabric joints
= No Missed or Uneven stitches
= No damage to the material being sewn
= Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort
= Comfortable while garment is in use
SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:
0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;
0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,
01 to 99;
0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material configurations, 01-99.
Seam Classification:
According to British Standard 3870: 1991, seam is classified as-
Class 1- superimposed
Class 2- lapped
Class 3- bound
Class 4- flat
Class 5- decorative/channel
Class 6- edge neatening
Class 7- applied
Class 8- others
* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.
* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
Globalization has made it easier than ever to ignore where our clothes come from. The fashion industry has complex connections to many other fields, including manufacturing, advertising, production of raw materials, transportation and retailing. Begin to educate consumers about the importance of APPAREL STANDARDS.
This presentation was made to have an elaborate sense of fabric spreading. Different types of fabric spreading and the pros and cons of different fabric spreading is illustrated into the presentation.
4 Point Fabric Inspection System in Textile IndustryMd. Sirajul Islam
The most popular system for fabric inspection is 4 point system. Its very easy process. ASTM defines- It is a Standard Test Method for Visual Inspecting and Grading Fabrics.
Seam And its Classification with seam problemSadia Textile
Like Comment And download.
What is Seam?
A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment.
Properties of good seam are,
= Smooth fabric joints
= No Missed or Uneven stitches
= No damage to the material being sewn
= Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort
= Comfortable while garment is in use
SEAMS DESIGNATION
Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:
0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;
0.00.00 refers to the material configuration,
01 to 99;
0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations, material configurations, 01-99.
Seam Classification:
According to British Standard 3870: 1991, seam is classified as-
Class 1- superimposed
Class 2- lapped
Class 3- bound
Class 4- flat
Class 5- decorative/channel
Class 6- edge neatening
Class 7- applied
Class 8- others
* Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.
* One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.
* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
Globalization has made it easier than ever to ignore where our clothes come from. The fashion industry has complex connections to many other fields, including manufacturing, advertising, production of raw materials, transportation and retailing. Begin to educate consumers about the importance of APPAREL STANDARDS.
Suraaj Linens Pvt. Ltd. has emerged as one of India's premier textile made ups exports outfit with satisfied customer all over the globe.
Here we are presenting our work flow process.
Garment manufacturing process from fabric to poductKarthika M Dev
This was one of my internship project which i done in SIYARAM'S in Gujarat. This is all about the process wch going in the factory from raw materials to the finished goods After a conformed order. Hope this will be helpful.
This presentation talks about various apparel production systems and the comparison between them. It includes every process from scheduling of each and every task in the particular process to dispatch of the garment.
This slide presentation is very much useful to Apparel tech &Fashion design students studying in U.G &P.G.Degree courses.My sincere thanks&courtesy to textile apex.blogspot.com
Accelerate your Kubernetes clusters with Varnish CachingThijs Feryn
A presentation about the usage and availability of Varnish on Kubernetes. This talk explores the capabilities of Varnish caching and shows how to use the Varnish Helm chart to deploy it to Kubernetes.
This presentation was delivered at K8SUG Singapore. See https://feryn.eu/presentations/accelerate-your-kubernetes-clusters-with-varnish-caching-k8sug-singapore-28-2024 for more details.
Epistemic Interaction - tuning interfaces to provide information for AI supportAlan Dix
Paper presented at SYNERGY workshop at AVI 2024, Genoa, Italy. 3rd June 2024
https://alandix.com/academic/papers/synergy2024-epistemic/
As machine learning integrates deeper into human-computer interactions, the concept of epistemic interaction emerges, aiming to refine these interactions to enhance system adaptability. This approach encourages minor, intentional adjustments in user behaviour to enrich the data available for system learning. This paper introduces epistemic interaction within the context of human-system communication, illustrating how deliberate interaction design can improve system understanding and adaptation. Through concrete examples, we demonstrate the potential of epistemic interaction to significantly advance human-computer interaction by leveraging intuitive human communication strategies to inform system design and functionality, offering a novel pathway for enriching user-system engagements.
The Art of the Pitch: WordPress Relationships and SalesLaura Byrne
Clients don’t know what they don’t know. What web solutions are right for them? How does WordPress come into the picture? How do you make sure you understand scope and timeline? What do you do if sometime changes?
All these questions and more will be explored as we talk about matching clients’ needs with what your agency offers without pulling teeth or pulling your hair out. Practical tips, and strategies for successful relationship building that leads to closing the deal.
Neuro-symbolic is not enough, we need neuro-*semantic*Frank van Harmelen
Neuro-symbolic (NeSy) AI is on the rise. However, simply machine learning on just any symbolic structure is not sufficient to really harvest the gains of NeSy. These will only be gained when the symbolic structures have an actual semantics. I give an operational definition of semantics as “predictable inference”.
All of this illustrated with link prediction over knowledge graphs, but the argument is general.
Connector Corner: Automate dynamic content and events by pushing a buttonDianaGray10
Here is something new! In our next Connector Corner webinar, we will demonstrate how you can use a single workflow to:
Create a campaign using Mailchimp with merge tags/fields
Send an interactive Slack channel message (using buttons)
Have the message received by managers and peers along with a test email for review
But there’s more:
In a second workflow supporting the same use case, you’ll see:
Your campaign sent to target colleagues for approval
If the “Approve” button is clicked, a Jira/Zendesk ticket is created for the marketing design team
But—if the “Reject” button is pushed, colleagues will be alerted via Slack message
Join us to learn more about this new, human-in-the-loop capability, brought to you by Integration Service connectors.
And...
Speakers:
Akshay Agnihotri, Product Manager
Charlie Greenberg, Host
Builder.ai Founder Sachin Dev Duggal's Strategic Approach to Create an Innova...Ramesh Iyer
In today's fast-changing business world, Companies that adapt and embrace new ideas often need help to keep up with the competition. However, fostering a culture of innovation takes much work. It takes vision, leadership and willingness to take risks in the right proportion. Sachin Dev Duggal, co-founder of Builder.ai, has perfected the art of this balance, creating a company culture where creativity and growth are nurtured at each stage.
Kubernetes & AI - Beauty and the Beast !?! @KCD Istanbul 2024Tobias Schneck
As AI technology is pushing into IT I was wondering myself, as an “infrastructure container kubernetes guy”, how get this fancy AI technology get managed from an infrastructure operational view? Is it possible to apply our lovely cloud native principals as well? What benefit’s both technologies could bring to each other?
Let me take this questions and provide you a short journey through existing deployment models and use cases for AI software. On practical examples, we discuss what cloud/on-premise strategy we may need for applying it to our own infrastructure to get it to work from an enterprise perspective. I want to give an overview about infrastructure requirements and technologies, what could be beneficial or limiting your AI use cases in an enterprise environment. An interactive Demo will give you some insides, what approaches I got already working for real.
JMeter webinar - integration with InfluxDB and GrafanaRTTS
Watch this recorded webinar about real-time monitoring of application performance. See how to integrate Apache JMeter, the open-source leader in performance testing, with InfluxDB, the open-source time-series database, and Grafana, the open-source analytics and visualization application.
In this webinar, we will review the benefits of leveraging InfluxDB and Grafana when executing load tests and demonstrate how these tools are used to visualize performance metrics.
Length: 30 minutes
Session Overview
-------------------------------------------
During this webinar, we will cover the following topics while demonstrating the integrations of JMeter, InfluxDB and Grafana:
- What out-of-the-box solutions are available for real-time monitoring JMeter tests?
- What are the benefits of integrating InfluxDB and Grafana into the load testing stack?
- Which features are provided by Grafana?
- Demonstration of InfluxDB and Grafana using a practice web application
To view the webinar recording, go to:
https://www.rttsweb.com/jmeter-integration-webinar
Encryption in Microsoft 365 - ExpertsLive Netherlands 2024Albert Hoitingh
In this session I delve into the encryption technology used in Microsoft 365 and Microsoft Purview. Including the concepts of Customer Key and Double Key Encryption.
Essentials of Automations: Optimizing FME Workflows with ParametersSafe Software
Are you looking to streamline your workflows and boost your projects’ efficiency? Do you find yourself searching for ways to add flexibility and control over your FME workflows? If so, you’re in the right place.
Join us for an insightful dive into the world of FME parameters, a critical element in optimizing workflow efficiency. This webinar marks the beginning of our three-part “Essentials of Automation” series. This first webinar is designed to equip you with the knowledge and skills to utilize parameters effectively: enhancing the flexibility, maintainability, and user control of your FME projects.
Here’s what you’ll gain:
- Essentials of FME Parameters: Understand the pivotal role of parameters, including Reader/Writer, Transformer, User, and FME Flow categories. Discover how they are the key to unlocking automation and optimization within your workflows.
- Practical Applications in FME Form: Delve into key user parameter types including choice, connections, and file URLs. Allow users to control how a workflow runs, making your workflows more reusable. Learn to import values and deliver the best user experience for your workflows while enhancing accuracy.
- Optimization Strategies in FME Flow: Explore the creation and strategic deployment of parameters in FME Flow, including the use of deployment and geometry parameters, to maximize workflow efficiency.
- Pro Tips for Success: Gain insights on parameterizing connections and leveraging new features like Conditional Visibility for clarity and simplicity.
We’ll wrap up with a glimpse into future webinars, followed by a Q&A session to address your specific questions surrounding this topic.
Don’t miss this opportunity to elevate your FME expertise and drive your projects to new heights of efficiency.
2. • Pattern grading is the process of turning base size or sample
size patterns into additional sizes using a size specification
sheet or grading increments.
• This can be done manually or digitally using
computerized pattern cutting software.
• These increments are referred to as garment grading rules.
Each specific clothing market area and level has different
grading rules.
3. • Standard grading rules are given as ergonomic measurements of
the body.
• This can be done online or in pattern grading books. When
producing a clothing line, you will need a grading system to target a
specific target market.
• Grading is a necessary step that must be taken before approaching
sample manufacturers or factories, because they require card sets of
your specific patterns and an order of garments to be produced.
• Grading determines how your garments will fit in all sizes..
• Having a variety of sizes for each of your garments fills out your
minimum garment order cost effectively. Grading will not create
shape, but will only increase or decrease size of original shape.
4.
5. Methods of Grading.
• There are three basic methods of pattern grading.
• These include:
• Cut and spread: This is the easiest method, which acts as the basis of the other two
methods. To perform this method, you must cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a
certain amount to grade up, or overlap the pieces to grade down. The only tools you will need
for this method are a pencil, tape, ruler, and scissors.
• Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting involves increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by
moving it around at a constant distance. After you move it, you redraw the outline in order to
produce the same results as cut-and-spread.
• Computer grading: Computer grading is the most recent development in grading
technology. It is also the fastest method.
• Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually only large manufacturers can afford it.
Computer grading takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes them.
• There is not a superior method; they are all equally capable of producing a correct garment
grade.
6.
7. • Women's sewing patterns are generally designed to fit a specific
size (usually an 8 or 10). That is the sample size, and the fit is
perfected on that sample.
• Once the fit is approved for that size, the pattern is "graded" for
a full range of sizes (usually size 4 to 18, for misses sizes).
8.
9. • The "grade rules" refer to the amount of change between sizes,
for each measurement point. For example, the bust, waist and
hip "grade" 1" between sizes for most of the Misses size range.
•
• If you started with a size 8 dress and needed to make another
one in a size 10, you'd make the bust, waist and hip 1"
larger. You'd do this primarily by making the adjustment at the
side seam, and distribute the 1" size difference evenly at
each seam.
10.
11. • Grading in the apparel manufacturing industry is well known as
the art of proportionally increasing or decreasing a given size
pattern part from one size to another, retaining everything true
to its original form. The grading network for a block pattern is
also the basic network for the components which have been
developed from the block pattern.
• Article Contributed by-R.S.BALAKUMAR
• SOURCE-FIBRE 2 FASHION.COM
12. • There are many techniques involved in the grading of garment
pattern but they all have one common principle- the basic grade.
Grading system can be classified in to the following two broad
systems:
• 1. Track Shift System or Two dimensional grading.
• 2. Draft Grade System or Three dimensional grading.
13. Two-dimensional system:
• Two dimensional grading systems only grades a pattern for girth
and height and its application is therefore limited to loose or semi
drape garments because it retains the stock size suppression
throughout the size range.
• This system is more apt to a very loose fitting garment such as a
shirt or blouse with a limited range to say, 10-12-14, may be safely
graded using a two dimensional system.
14. Three dimensional system:
• This system not only increases a pattern for size but it also increases
or decreases suppression in the following areas:
• Bust to shoulder
• Hip to Waist
• Elbow to wrist
15. • Three dimensional grading is the optimum system and should
be used whenever possible, particularly when grading close fitting
or skin-tight garments and garments that progress in size from 10
to 22.
• The most important garment area is the bust to shoulder
suppression quantity. A good working knowledge of pattern
cutting is required to use a three-dimensional grading system.
•
16. • Types of Garment: There are two main categories, they are:
•Close or skin-tight fitting garments
•Loose or semi drape garments.
•
• The closer the garment fit, the more important it is to select a
sophisticated garment grading system which adjusts the garment
with the garment suppression. If the garment fit is loose the value
of adjusting the garment suppression decreases and a two
dimensional system becomes more advisable.
17. •
Number of sizes:
• This may depend a little on whether a garment is close or loose-
fitting, but it mainly refers to a situation where the company or
firm only offers a limited number of sizes, the complexity of the
grading system, etc.
•
18. • Types of Fabric: For grading purpose fabrics may be classified in to
two broad types:
• Stretch
• Non-stretch
•
• Stretch fabrics are more for adjustable and will fit readily to the body
contours or silhouettes and therefore, it can be employed. A non
stretch fabric has the reverse effect and must be kept under the control
and in balance through the size range.
•
19. • Grading Techniques:
• The draft or multi size (Nested) grade.
• The track or single size grade.
20. The Draft Grade:
• This term applies when the pattern is returned to its original block form or
when the increment is applied to the actual pattern draft.
• This results in the entire size range being super imposed one on top of
another and can also be described by the term 'Nested' or 'Tracked'.
• The individual pieces of pattern for each size are then picked or traced off
onto card.
• A draft grade can be either two or three dimensional. The three
dimensional draft grade is considered to be the ultimate method for
applying grade increments.
21. The Track Grade:
• This term is used when grade increments are applied to individual
pieces of pattern by moving the base pattern pieces along with the
predetermined tracks.
• Making the pattern section by section and thus altering its size.
• This system is usually two dimensional but can be adapted to a three
dimensional system with difficulty.
22. • Following are the steps for manual grading:
• 1. To prepare for grading
• 2. Grading the pattern
• 3. Check the pattern grading measurements
• 4. Completing the pattern.
23. The tools required for grading are as under:
• 1. Parallel rules
• 2. Awl
• 3. Carpenters pencil
• 4. Proportional divider
• 5. French curve
• 6. Arm hole curve
• 7. Tailors square
• 8. Notch maker
• 9. Grade ruler
• 10. Measuring tape
• 11. Colour sketch pen or pencils
24. Size intervals:
• A sizing system is a pre-determined size interval i.e. the major
girth difference between each size.
• The variation in the size is in the order of plus or minus 2cm
then the logical size interval would be 4cm.
• Practically, intervals smaller than 4cm result into more used
sizes of the range.
25. • Size charts: There are two types of size charts in normal use.
• 1. Body measurements: This type of chart provides the human body
measurements for each size and these measurements are used as a basis
for constructing a pattern with the requisite amounts of ease.
• 2. Garment measurements:-This chart gives the details of the finished
measurements, specification for each size and is used for pattern grading
purpose. A size is a combination of measurements and each combination is
designated by a symbol which is a common code between the apparel
manufacturer and the consumer.
26. • The 'X ' AXIS and 'Y'AXIS: The x -axis for body and y-axis for
body and skirt grades would be a line on, or parallel to the
center back or center front. This is always true, if straight y-axis
is a line on, or parallel to a major girth line such as the bust,
waist, or hip.
27. • The different types of grading that are still in usage are: manual
grading, machine grading, and computerized grading are still used.
• The practice of garment grading is mainly concerned with efficiently
producing dimensionally accurate patterns.
• In order to do this, some basic rules must be always observed.
• There is no hard and fast rule as how to actually produce the sets of
graded patterns and the choice of working method is also dependent
on an individual's accuracy and convenience.
28. • Image courtesy:
• Threadsmagazine.com
• R.S. Balakumar has M.A (Sociology), MLM. He is a member of the
Council of the ISTE member, New Delhi and specializes in Garment
Technology.