Advanced Garment Technology

1. Advanced Garment Manufacturing
Karthikeyan M Ramasamy
srimrk@gmail.com

2. Garment Manufacturing Technology

3. Designing
Fashion
The Design Process
Making Fashion

4. Apparel Company Divisions
The three divisions of apparel manufacturers are:
Design
Division:
Buy Fabrics/
Design a line
Production
Division:
Produce the
garments
Sales
Division:
Sell completed
apparel to stores
All divisions work together to make it happen!

5. The Role of the Fashion Designer
 Designers must anticipate what their target market will
buy
 Select the appropriate fabrics that
will sell.
 Produce finished garments or accessories at prices that
customers will pay.
 Create original designs and choose appropriate fabrics
 Supervise assistants who carry out their ideas.
 May also spend time on administrative tasks.

6. Design Process and Schedules:
Steps of the Design Process
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
Step 4 Step 5 Step 6
Basic
Decisions
Design
Concept and
Samples
Sales
Research
Analysis
Design
Presentation
Purchase
Orders
Production
6

7. The responsibilities of a designer
• Producing concepts
• Making sketches by hand or on the computer
• Developing patterns
• Overseeing production
• Analyzing trends in fabrics, colours and shapes.
• Producing concepts
• Making sketches by hand or on computers
• Developing patterns
• Overseeing production
• Analysing trends in fabrics, colours and shapes
• Sourcing suppliers
• Selecting and buying fabrics and trims
• Adapting existing designs for mass production
• Supervising the making up of sample garments
• Quality control.

8. Fashion/Clothing designers need:
• to be creative
• an eye for colour, texture and pattern
• the ability to visualise things in three dimensions
• technical skills in areas such as pattern cutting,
grading and garment construction
• to enjoy following trends in fashion and clothing.

9. Sequential Operation for
Construction of Garment

11. SEAM AND SEAM FINISHES
CLASS 1 (SUPERIMPOSED SEAM)
This class is the commonest construction of seam and it has
the following types.
1. Superimposed seam
2. French seam
3.Piped seam
Types of Seams
Seam : A line where two pieces of fabric are sewn
together in a garment or other article.

12. Super Imposed Seams
1. Plain Seam
The simplest seam type above fig within the class is
formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of
material on another.
A variety of stitch types can be used on this type of
seam, both for joining the fabrics and for neatening the
edges or for achieving both simultaneously.

13. 2. French Seam
 A seam constructed so that a narrow seam is contained
within a larger one, producing a clean finish.
 To prevent fabrics from fraying.
 When the seam finish will show through garments made of
sheer fabrics such as chiffon, organza, georgette, organdy.
 On children's and infants' wear, underwear, and outerwear.
 On straight seams.
 When a seam is to appear as a plain seam on the face of the
garment and a clean finish is desired on the inside.

15. 3.Corded Piped Seam
A seam stitched with a corded bias strip, of the same or
contrasting fabrics, inserted between the plies to show on
the face of the garment.
- As a decorative edge to collars, cuffs, pockets, or faced necklines.
- Between the bodice and skirt at waistline of dresses.
-To accentuate yoke or princess line seams.
-To outline openings and hems.
-To add body to seam lines.

17. CLASS 2(LAPPED SEAM)
Types
1.Lapped seam 2.Lap felled seam 3.Welted seam
1.Lapped Seam
A seam joining all thicknesses from the face of the garment and
catching the folded edge of the uppermost ply.
-To join garment sections such as a yoke, gusset, or godet to other
garment sections.
-On sections of the garment where stitching on the face of the
garment aids construction and speeds sewing.
-On seams where the stitching is desired as a decorative finish.
-On fabrics that will not fray.

18. 2.Lapped Felled Seam
• A flat-felled seam is the result of enclosing both seam allowances by
interlocking opposing folded edges beneath two parallel rows of
machine stitching through all plies.
On garments that are made to take hard wear such as pajamas,
play clothes, work clothes, sport clothes, and outerwear.
• On men's shirts, boys' trousers, and women's tailored garments.
• On reversible garments. -On unlined garments.

19. 2.Lapped Felled Seam

20. 3. Welt Seam
•
A flat inside seam, graded and pressed to one side; the
larger seam allowance being top-stitched to the garment
thereby enclosing the smaller.
-For sportswear made of heavy fabrics wherever a strong flat seam
is desired.
-On women's tailored shirtwaist dresses, tailored blouses, and yokes
of garments.
-To reduce bulk on the inside of garments when joining seams.
-On work clothes and garments made of bulky fabrics where a flat-
felled seam would be too heavy.
-To accent seam and or style lines

21. Welt Seam

22. CLASS 3(BOUND SEAM)
• A bound seam has each of the raw edges of its seam allowances
enclosed in a strip of fabric, lace or net 'binding' that has been folded
in half lengthwise.
• An example of binding is double-fold bias tape. The binding's fold is
wrapped around the raw edge of the seam allowance and is stitched,
through all thicknesses, catching underside of binding in stitching.
• Bound seams are often used on lightweight fabrics including silk and
chiffon and on unlined garments to produce a neat finish.

23. CLASS 3(BOUND SEAM)

24. Flat or Abutted seam
• In a flat or abutted seam, two pieces
of fabric are joined edge-to edge with
no overlap and sewn with hand or
machine stitching that encloses the
raw edges.
• Antique or old German seam is the
19th century name for a hand-sewn
flat seam that joins two pieces of at
their selvages. This type of
construction is found in traditional
linen garments such as shirts and
chemises, and in hand-made sheets
pieced from narrow loom widths of
linen.

25. Flat or Abutted seam

26. CLASS 5(DECORATIVE STITCHING)
This is the first of the two classes of steam which, in the old British
Standard, were not regarded as seams at all and were given the name
‘stitching’.
The main use of the seam is for decorative sewing on garments where
single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn trough one or more layer of
fabric
These several layers can be folds of the same fabric. The simplest seam in
the class has decorative stitching across a garment panel. One row would
have little effect but multi needle stitching is common.
Other possibilities, given the right folding device, are pin tucks, often sewn
in multiples, and channel seams.

27. CLASS 5(DECORATIVE STITCHING)

28. Class 6 Edge Neatening
• Seam types in this class include those where fabric edges are
neatened by means of stitches (as opposed to binding with another
or the same fabric) as well as folded hems and edges.
• The simplest is the fabric edge inside a garment which has been
neatened with an over edge stitch in fig
• It is typical of dress or a pair of trousers in a woven fabric which has
been neatened might be omitted.
• A folding device is used in the construction of the hem of shirt or a
skirt lining.
• In fig shown a method of folding and this is sometimes used on the
buttonhole front of shirt.

29. Class 6 Edge Neatening

30. CLASS 7
• Seams in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the
edge of a garment part. They are similar to the lapped seam except
that the added component has a definite edge on both sides.
• The fig would be a band of lace attached to the lower edge of a slip
as in figure, elastic braid on the edge of a bra and inserted elastic on
the leg of swimsuit.
• An example where the additional item is self-fabric plus interlining is
another version of the buttonhole band on a shirt.

31. CLASS 7

32. Class 8
• The final seam class in the British Standard is another where
only one piece if material need be involved in construction the
seam. The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as
used on jeans, raincoats.
• The use of the belt loop of the stitch type mentioned before which
has two needles and a bottom covering thread ensures that the
raw edges are covered over on the underside while showing two
rows of plain stitching on the top.

33. CLASS 8

34. FULLNESS
• Fullness of material is an important feature of style as
well as a necessity for ease of movement in a well
fitted garment, whereas, fashion changes the basic
methods of controlling fullness that frequently recur,
though adapted to enhance the current style.
• Darts, tucks, pleats, gathers etc are some of the
devices for introducing fullness.

36. TUCKS
A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or
machine stitch on the right side of the garment as a means of –
shaping the garment to the body, for holding in fullness or adds
decorative effect at shoulders, waistlines, yokes, pockets or cuff
of sleeves etc. The tucks that are partly stitched help in shaping
the garments. These are also used in children’s garments to hold
the allowance for growth. Tucks add body to thin fabrics and
textural interest to plain fabrics.
a. Pin tucks:
These are tiny dainty tucks used on baby clothes and fine
blouses. To stitch each tuck fold, along the middle of the
markings. Tack or machine baste about 1/8 inch wide from the
fold

37. • b. Piped or Corded tucks:
• These are made by placing cording on
the wrong side of the fabric at center of
tuck before stitching the tuck and
stitched close to the cording
• c. Shell or scalloped tucks:
• This is a very a decorative tuck made by
hand or machine. Stitch the tuck using
small running stitches. As you come to
each dot, take two overcast stitches
through the dot and pull tight, before
proceeding further with the running
stitches
d. Crossed tucks:
When rows of tucks are stitched along the
fabric in both horizontal and vertical
directions, the decoration is called cross
tucking. First stitch the vertical tucks and
presses them to one side. Then stitch the
horizontal tucks

38. Tucks

39. PLEATS
• Pleats are folds of fabric that provide fullness in some parts of a
garment. They can be placed single or in a series and can be
pressed flat or left un-pressed, according to the style of the garment.
• Pressed pleats give a smooth, slimming line to a garment, whereas,
un-pressed pleats provide a softer and fuller shape.
• a. Knife pleats:
• They are usually about 1/2 inch to 1 inch wide
and are turned towards the same direction.
The direction may be reversed at center back
or centre front of the garment. Make all the
pleats in the same direction. Press them.
• Pleats can be top stitched in place from waist
to hip to produce the slender effect. The main
function of a knife pleat in a tailored garment
is to provide fullness at the bottom of the
garment.

40. b. Box pleats:
• Two knife pleats turned away from each
other (one to the left and one to the
right) form a box pleat. These are used
quite often for uniforms.
c. Inverted pleat:
• It is the opposite of a box. It is made up
of two knife pleats turned towards each
other so that the folds meet in the
middle on the right side of the garment.
It is usually designed at centre front or
centre back and looks like two knife
pleats facing away from each other on
the under side

41. Pleats

42. Pleats

43. GATHERS
Gathering is an effective and decorative way of distributing fullness
over a given area. Gathers are graceful folds of fabric that provide
fullness, suggesting a soft look, which can be made using machine
or hand stitches. These are formed by drawing the fabric together on
a line of stitching and may be used to control the fullness at round
waist, yoke lines, waist lines, neck lines and upper and lower edge
of sleeves.
a. Gathering by hand b. Gathering by machine

44. GATHERS

45. GATHERS

46. SHIRRING OR GAUGING
• When several rows of gathering (3
or more) are used for a decorative
finish these are termed shirring.
The rows should be evenly spaced.
• Shirring appears as a decorative
feature at the shoulder, waistline,
at the lower edge of a sleeve and
usually at the narrower parts of
garment also allowing a certain
degree of stretching.
• Shirring can be done by these
methods –
• - Thread shirrs
• - Elasticized shirrs

47. FRILLS OR RUFFLES
• A ruffle is a strip of fabric cut or handled in such a ways
as to produce fullness.
• These are used for the purpose of adding decoration to a
garment. Sometimes they are used at the hems of skirts
and dresses to add length.
• To make frills allow at least one and a half times the
length of the piece to which the frill will be attached. The
width of the frill is usually anything from one inch to 3
inches.
• The longer side should be cut along the lengthwise grain
of the material. The gathered edge of the frill can be
concealed in a seam, facing, binding or wide band.

49. GODETS
• These are wedge shaped
pieces which are usually set
into a skirt so that the wide
side of the wedge becomes
a part of the hem of the
skirt.
• The godet may be set into a
seam of the skirt, or the skirt
may be slashed so that the
slashed edges form the
seams that join into the
godet
• Panels are cut and godets
are stitched between
panels.

50. DARTS
DARTS are folds sewn into fabric to help
provide a three-dimensional shape to a
garment. They are frequently used in
women's clothing to provide a fit that
closely follows the shape of the wearer.
Two kinds of darts are common in blouses
for women
Vertical darts- These are sewn from the
bottom of the blouse to a point generally
around the bust line. This type of dart may
be found in the front and/or the back of a
blouse and are used by the garment
maker to pull in the bottom of the blouse
towards the wearer's waist.