CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from
specified fabric for making garments.
Using the markers made from graded patterns and in
accordance with the issue plan, fabrics are cut to prepare
garment assembly.
This is the major operation of the cutting room, of all of the
operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive,
because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done
to rectify serious mistakes.
Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must
be cut out of the specified fabric, a process
called "cutting.“
The first stage in the manufacturing of garments is the cutting
and for that pattern making is the base.
production process of separating (sectioning, curving,
severing) is a spread into components of garment that are the
precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker.
It may also involve transferring marks and notches from the
garment parts to assist operators in sewing
Production process in the cutting
room
Inspect raw
materials
Issue for sewing
Use periodical
operations with
same sequence
Check production
orders
Graded patterns
with bundles
Process Sequence in Cutting
Room:
Marker Making
Fabric Spreading
Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay
Fabric Cutting
Numbering
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.
Shorting & Bundling
Sewing/Assembling
Inspect by making random checks on the cutting
room floor whether there is a defect or not;
Checkpoints
Marker Placement: check that the marker is placed on the spread with the
edge parallel to the selvage of the piece goods. Verify that all cut pieces will
be complete.
Shading: unless all parts are ply marked, it is essential to have a system to
control shading.
Table marks : check the table marks as they table is marked. Allow no minus
tolerance for the splices.
Markers: ensure that no markers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped
parts.
Splices: after completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both piles
extend past the marked splice by no less then 1/2 inch and no more then 1
inch.
Narrow Goods: after completion of the spread, check the far edge of the
spread to see that all plies extend beyond the marker line.
Tension: check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit
fabrics.
Count: check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting.
Count all plies at both ends. There should be no tolerance.
Leaning: check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to
table top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the table top.
Record the spreading defects by the quantity of defects found for each
checkpoint. Any defective work discovered by the inspector should be
immediately corrected.
Best Practices in cutting operations
Precision of cut: To ensure the cutting of fabric accurately
according to the line drown of the marker plan.
Clean edge: By avoiding the fraying out of yarn from the
fabric edge. Cutting edge must be smooth clean. Knife must
be sharp for smooth or clean edge.
Consistency in cutting: All the sizing safe of the cutting
parts should be same of knife should be operated of the right
angle of the fabric lay.
Factors affect the cutting process
for fabrics are as follows:-
Nature of fabric (grain line, shade, twill etc.)
Thickness of fabric.
Design characteristics of finished garment.
Tools, Machines and tables used;
small batches or sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be done by
hand(scissors).
cutters guide electric cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern
pieces.
An electric drill may be used to make pattern notches.
These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum
technology (to cutting tables) to hold stacks of fabric in place.
Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the type of
fabric being cut.
One of used cutting system of fully automated- GERBER garment
technology
The advantage of this highly accurate and fast
Cost considerably more than other cutting techniques.
The accuracy and efficiency of this system is considerably more
than other manual systems.
Methods of cutting-
Completely Manual Method- This type of fabric cutting is not
available In garment industry. But this type of cutting is performed for
tailoring purposes, where single fabrics are cut. It is completely a
manual method of fabric cutting. It needs more for cutting.
Manually operated powered knife method- In this method cutting
operation is done by using knife. Here knife is placed in the head of
the cutting machine. It is most used methods in apparel industry in
cutting fabrics.
Computerized method- In modern age the use of computerized
methods become popular for perform the cutting operation. Here, all
programs are loaded to the computer and it performs all the actives
which are loaded.