3. Production planning and
Material control
Defined as the technique of foreseeing
every step in a long series of separate
operations, each step to be taken at the
right time and in the right place and each
operation to be performed in maximum
efficiency.
It helps entrepreneur to work out the
quantity of material manpower, machine
and money requires for producing
predetermined level of output in given
period of time.
4. Objective
is the organization of
the supply and
movement of materials
and labor, machines
utilization and related
activities, in order to
bring about the desired
manufacturing results in
terms of quality,
quantity, time and
place.
5. Spreading is the processes of
superimposing lengths of fabric on
a spreading table, cutting table or
specially designed surface in
preparation for the cutting process
6. is very important part of
the production process
because it is basic for
obtaining a high quality
final product
7.
8. 1. Fabric must be flat
1. During fabric
spreading it should be
maintained that the
fabric is flat.
2. The wrinkle must be
removed (by air flow)
so that the fabric may
be flat.
9. 2. Correct ply tension:
The ply tension of
the fabric should be
proper. If the tension
is low, there will be
ridges in the plies and
if the tension is too
high, the fabric may
shrink after cutting
and sewing.
10. 3.Alignment of fabric ply:
Fabric spreading is done according to length and
width of marker. Every ply should comprise at least
width of the marker plan. but should have the
minimum possible extra outside those
measurements
4.Correct ply direction and lay stability:
These two factors depend on fabric type, pattern
shape and spreading equipment's that are
available. When the pattern pieces have been
positioned in a particular direction in the marker
plan, it is the essential that the fabric is spread
according the direction. Symmetrical patterns
pieces are placed in the same way up or face to
face.
11. 5. Elimination of static electricity:
If spreading is done by manmade fabrics,
static electricity may generate. It can be
eliminated by reducing friction or increasing
humidity of the room. Anti-static paper may be
used to reduce the static electricity generation.
6. Elimination of fabric flaws:
The flaws of fabric must be indicated
during spreading and necessary steps to be
taken to remove these faults. The general two
steps to remove the flaws are :
Splicing
Over lapping
12. 7. Easy separation of the cut
lay into bundles:
The size of cut lay into bundles
of fabric depends on the height
of fabric lays. Some low priced
color papers are used in the
fabric plies to displace. It helps
each bundle to prevent shade
variation for displacing. It also
helps to catch the slippery
fabrics lays during spreading.
Generally, the colored papers
are rough in surface.
13. 8. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:
The heat generated when the fabric lays are cut by using
cutting knife due to the friction fabric and knife. Generally,
those fabrics are melted due to heat generation to the fabric
lays which are made by thermoplastic fibers. To prevent this
defect, some anti-fusion papers are used with the gaps of
fabric plies during spreading.
9. Avoidance of distortion in spread:
The fabric may be creased and folded due to the friction in the
bottom of lay by base plate of knife during cutting with
straight knife or shifting of fabric lay. As a result, defected
pattern may occur. To remove this defect, fabric lay is made
on the smooth paper so that, there is less possibility of
friction between fabric and table.
14. 10. Matching checks and stripes:
For check and stripe fabric, the flaws of
fabric must be indicated during spreading
and necessary steps should be taken.
Marker planning should be done by
matching with stripe of check of fabric. Each
ply should be correct during spreading on
the other for making fabric lay. Then the
matching may warp or weft way as
required.
17. Manual spreading
fabric is drawn from its package
which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried
along the table where the end is
secured by weights or by clamps.
The operators work back from the
end, aligning the edges and
ensuring that there is no tension
and that there are no wrinkles.
20. A motor to drive
A platform on which the operator rides
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the
ends of ply in place
A ply counter
An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge
guides
A turntable
A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with
the speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in
the fabric being spread.
22. Is the production process of
separating (sectioning,
carving, severing) a spread
into garment parts that are the
precise size and shape of the
pattern pieces on a marker.
23. Fabric cutting
To cut out the garment pieces
from lays of the fabric with the
help of cutting templates.
Cutting is irreversible process
in garments cutting, so it must
be done carefully.
24. Precession of cut
Clean edge
Consistency in cutting
Support of the lay
25. Three methods of
cutting technique:
1.Completely by manual-Hand operated scissors.
2.Manually operated powered knife.
Straight knife.
Band knife.
Round knife.
Die cutter.
Notched cutter.
Drill.
3.Computerized technique.
Knife cutting.
Cutting by water jet.
Leaser cutting.
Plasma torch cutting.
26. Hand Operated Scissor
• Features:
First & oldest method of fabric cutting
Used for cutting one or two plies of fabric
Available to cut the fabric from left to right or
right to left
Needs more time & contain high cost
Used in tailoring & household purpose to cut
fabric
27. Straight Knife
• Features:
The elements of straight knife consists of:
1. An electric motor
2. Stand
3. A base plate usually on rollers
4. Handle
5. Knife
6. Knife Guard
7. Wheel
Knife is driven by electric power
Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting
Blade edge: straight edge, wave edge, saw edge, serrated edge
Straight edge is mostly used
Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm
Can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim
28. Working Principal:
Two kind of powers are required to operate a Straight
Knife
Motor power drive the reciprocating knife
Operator power drives the knife through the lay
The motor power needed is determined by
Height of the lay
Construction of the fabric
Curvature of the line being cut
Stroke of the blade
Greater power of the motor, greater blade movement to cut
the fabric
29. Straight Knife
• ADVANTAGE:
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to
another place
Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily
Round corner can be cut more precisely then even round knife
Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from any
angle
• DISADVANTAGE:
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight o the motor
Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high
Sometime accident may happen
30. Band Knife
• Features:
Band knife comprises a series of three or more
pulleys, powered by electric motor
Cutting knife is endless in shape & flexible
Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife
This method m/c is stationary but fabric is moveable
This is like saw mill cutter
31. Band Knife
ADVANTAGE:
Used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required
Extensively used to cut very sharp corners small parts such
as collars & cuff
Used more in men’s wear than ladies wear
Intensively risk of accident is low
Possible to cut 90˚ angle of the fabric
DISADVANTAGE:
Work load is high as m/c is stationary & fabric is moveable
Not suitable for cutting large amount of garments parts
Not possible to cut fabric directly
Fabric wastage is high
Power loss is high
32. Round Knife
• Features:
Element of round knife:
Base plate & Electric motor
Handle for the cutter to direct the
blade
Rotating circular blade
Blade diameter varies from 6-20 cm
Blade is circular
Blade is driven by electric power
Circular knife is driven by 1000-
3500 cm
33. Round Knife
ADVANTAGE:
Suitable for single ply cutting as well as multi-layers (say 20-30
layers)
Suitable for small scale cutting
Suitable gentle curve cutting
Easy to operate
Useful for cutting layer parts of a garments
DISADVANTAGE:
Not suitable for cutting very curve lines in higher no. of lays
Not suitable for higher production
Possibility of accident is high
Difficult to cut small component
Needs skilled operator
34. Die Cutting
• Features:
Mainly two types of die cuttings are available namely: Presses
& Clickers
Main parts of all die cutting m/c are Blade, Ram Head, Die,
Motor & Operating System of Ram
Die is made by metallic strip
Most useful to cut sharp & small parts
35. Working Principal:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the
shape of pattern
Die press generally has a cutting die just penetrates
the cutting pad in order that the fibers of the lowest
ply are completely separated
For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the
required placement of dies
The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to
the cutting pad
The gap between two dies 2-3 mm are placed when
die is taken to cut fabric lay
36. Die Cutting
• Advantage:
Extensively used to cut sharp corners of small parts of dress
accurately
Most useful to cut at any shape or any angle
Comparatively less time required
Best method of cutting knitted fabric
• Disadvantage:
Fabric loss is high due to the need of block of fabric lay
High labor cost
To change the style quickly is impossible
Difficult to cut large components of dress
37. Notcher Cutting
Features:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Used to cut notch in the edge of some components
The invention of notcher m/c was done to make notch
The notch can be made in U-shape or V-shape
38. Notcher Cutting
ADVANTAGE:
Special type of cutting m/c & used in special case
Useful to cut small notch to the fabric
Most useful to make consistency in notching
DISADVANTAGE:
Only used to make notch
Thermoplastic fiber can not cut by this m/c
Time loss
Use of the m/c is limited
39. Drill Cutting
Features:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses especially
for pocket & dart setting
This m/c contains a motor, base plate, drill, & spirit level
For tightly woven fabric, making of hole by drill is permanent for
long
In hypodermic drill some color is sprayed along with the hole so
that it can easy to find the marked place
40. Drill Cutting
ADVANTAGE:
Needed to mark on the end of components of dresses
especially for setting pocket & dart
Make the hole permanently for long time
DISADVANTAGE:
Only used for making hole in the fabric especially for
setting pocket & dart
For loose woven fabric it can not make the hole
permanently for long time
41. Computer Controlled Knife
Cutting
Features:
This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed
Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high & blade
is made of stainless steel
Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system
42. Computer Controlled Knife
Cutting
• ADVANTAGE:
Very fast cutting operation
Very active cutting by computer controlled system
Suitable for very large scale production
Speed of can be controlled
Intensity of accident is low
No need of marker
Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method
Less labor cost
• DISADVANTAGE:
Very expensive m/c
Higher maintenance cost
Skilled manpower is required
If correct disc is not loaded in the computer, error will be indicated
43. Cutting By Laser Beam
Features:
This method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine spot using a
laser
When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the material
& cutting is done by vaporization
Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
Cutting head is controlled by computer
44. Cutting By Laser Beam
• ADVANTAGE:
Very fast cutting operation
Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head
is controlled by computer
As the fabric is cut by ray off high so that no need of
sharpening operation
• DISADVANTAGE:
Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge should be
fused
Very expensive cutting method
45. Cutting By Water Jet
Features:
This system, thin jet of water is passes through a nozzle in a very
momentum
Pressure of water is 60,000 pounds per square inch
Water is worked as like as hard & sharp knife which can easily cut the
fabric
A catcher in the bottom of fabric lays & it used with the same speed &
the same direction of water jet
46. Cutting By Water Jet
ADVANTAGE:
Higher cutting speed
There is no need of knife to cut fabric so that no need of
sharpening operations
Better to cut hard material
DISADVANTAGE:
Not suitable for higher depth of lay of fabric
Cutting edge of fabric is wetted by water
Sometimes water spot should be seen in the fabric
Need of filtering & deionization of water
Need of controlling the sound of jet
47. Cutting By Plasma Torch
Features:
This system, fabric are cut by a thin through the nozzle which
is made by Argon gas
One or more fabric plies can be cut
Most useful for cutting single ply of fabric
Fabrics are cut by placing in a table, the surface (85%) of which
must be place in a perforated blanked place
48. Cutting By Plasma Torch
• ADVANTAGE:
Automatic torch height control system
Automatic oxy-fuel gas control system
Automatic torch explosion system
Pneumatic band clamping
Standard auto-nesting package
Easily networked
• DISADVANTAGE:
Synthetic fiber not cut
Higher number of fabric lay is not cut
Need higher skill operator
Costly
