3. The whole presentation has been divided into 3 parts
according to our practical experience. The steps followed in
the garment factory.
The 3 parts are:
1. Pattern and Marker making
2. Fabric spreading
3. Fabric cutting
Our focused topic is:
Requirements of fabric spreading
4. Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper
which is made by following all
the specifications of each and
individual components of a
garment. It is an ornamental
design or decorative element in
a fabric.
The two steps of pattern making
are:
1. Block pattern or basic block
2. Working or garments pattern
Fig: Pattern
5. Marker: Marker is a thin
paper which contains all
the necessary pattern
pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of
garments. It gives special
instructions for cutting.
Methods of marker
making:
1. Manual method
2. Computerized method
6. Spreading:
Spreading means the smooth laying out of
the fabric in superimposed layers of
specific length.
Types of spreading:
The two types of fabric spreading are
1. Flat spreading
2. Stepped spreading
Methods of fabric spreading:
1. Manual method
2. Mechanical method
I. Semi-automatic
II. Full automatic
7. 1. Fabric must be flat
2. Correct ply tension
3. Alignment of fabric ply
4. Correct ply direction and lay stability
5. Elimination of static electricity
6. Elimination of fabric flaws
7. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles
8. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
9. Avoidance of distortion in spread
10. Matching checks and stripes
8. 1. Fabric must be flat
1. During fabric spreading it
should be maintained that
the fabric is flat.
2. If there is wrinkle in flat
table then the panels of
garments may be faulty.
3. The wrinkle must be
removed (by air flow) so
that the fabric may be flat.
9. 2.Correct ply tension:
The ply tension of the fabric should
be proper. If the tension is low,
there will be ridges in the plies and
if the tension is too high, the fabric
may shrink after cutting and
sewing. Spreading in spreading
machine will give uniform tension.
10. 3.Alignment of fabric ply:
Fabric spreading is done according to length and width of
marker. Every ply should comprise at least width of the
marker plan but should have the minimum possible extra
outside those measurements
4.Correct ply direction and lay stability:
These two factors depend on fabric type, pattern shape and
spreading equipments that are available. When the pattern
pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the
marker plan, it is the essential that the fabric is spread
according the direction. Symmetrical patterns pieces are
placed in the same way up or face to face.
11. 5. Elimination of static electricity:
If spreading is done by manmade fabrics, static electricity may
generate. It can be eliminated by reducing friction or increasing
humidity of the room. Anti-static paper may be used to reduce the
static electricity generation.
6. Elimination of fabric flaws:
The flaws of fabric must be indicated during spreading and
necessary steps to be taken to remove these faults. The general
two steps to remove the flaws are
a. Splicing
b. Over lapping
12. 7. Easy separation of the
cut lay into bundles:
The size of cut lay into
bundles of fabric depends
on the height of fabric
lays. Some low priced
color papers are used in
the fabric plies to
displace. It helps each
bundle to prevent shade
variation for displacing. It
also helps to catch the
slippery fabrics lays
during spreading.
Generally, the colored
papers are rough in
surface.
13. 8. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:
The heat generated when the fabric lays are cut by using cutting
knife due to the friction fabric and knife. Generally, those fabrics are
melted due to heat generation to the fabric lays which are made by
thermoplastic fibres. To prevent this defect, some anti-fusion papers
are used with the gaps of fabric plies during spreading.
9. Avoidance of distortion in spread:
The fabric may be creased and folded due to the friction in the
bottom of lay by base plate of knife during cutting with straight knife
or shifting of fabric lay. As a result, defected pattern may occur. To
remove this defect, fabric lay is made on the smooth paper so that,
there is less possibility of friction between fabric and table.
14. 10. Matching checks and
stripes:
For check and stripe fabric, the
flaws of fabric must be indicated
during spreading and necessary
steps should be taken. Marker
planning should be done by
matching with stripe of check of
fabric. Each ply should be correct
during spreading on the other for
making fabric lay. Then the
matching may warp or weft way
as required.
15. Method of fabric cutting:
There are mainly three methods of
cutting:
1. Manual:
Hand operated scissor
2. Manual operated power knife:
Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting knife
Notcher
Drill
3. Computerized:
Knife
Laser
Water jet knife
Plasma torch
