Cloud based solutions transforming the merchandising process

4 Apparel Online Vietnam | JUNE 2019 | www.apparelresources.com
Cover Story
CONTENT Vol. 4 ISSUE 1 JUNE 2019
Women leaders in Vietnam’s garment and textile industry:
Encouraging female entrepreneurship The garment and textile industry
in Vietnam has played a significant role in enhancing the social and economic conditions of
the country... p8
Vietnam & Beyond
Vietnam Insight
Resource Centre
Tech Management
24
World Wrap
Kraig Labs’ Vietnam
factory signs lease to
expand production capacity
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, a prominent
developer of ‘spider silk’ textiles, announced
that its subsidiary Prodigy Textiles has signed
a 5-year lease on a factory in Quang Nam
province in Vietnam... p12
Fair Wear Foundation:
Going all out to improve
the lives of garment
workers in VietnamWhen
Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc and his
Dutch counterpart Mark Rutte attended
the Sustainable Fashion show, themed
‘Walk the Talk’ on 9 April 2019 in Hanoi, the
thunderous applause that both of them
received was a clear indication of Vietnam’s
commitment towards sustainable fashion... p16
Texprocess 2019: AI and
IoT integrated technology
gaining ground Texprocess 2019,
held in Frankfurt (Germany) from 14th to 17th
May, marked a total of 317 exhibitors from 34
countries who showcased the latest processing
technologies and sewing systems as well as an
array of IT and logistics solutions... p19
Myth Buster:
Understanding time’s
measures to achieve
better production Time is
the single most important commodity in
garment production; thus correct measure
of time is very important.
Brand extension: Retailers
and brands transition
from clothing to lifestyle
solutions p32
FFT Trends
Spring/Summer 2020:
Fashion Snoops Unveils
S/S ’20 Trends For Womenp26

www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 2019 | Apparel Online Vietnam 5

EDITORIAL TEAM
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Deepak Mohindra
EDITOR Ila Saxena
ASST. EDITOR Praveen Menon
COPY EDITOR Veereshwar Sobti
SUB EDITOR Priyanka Mishra
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Peeush Jauhari
Satyapal Bisht
PHOTOGRAPHER Vishal Chaudhary
OPERATION DIRECTOR Mayank Mohindra
PUBLISHER & MANAGING DIRECTOR Renu Mohindra
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Women: Continual source of inspiration
As Vietnam’s apparel and textile exports earn an impressive
US $ 12.1 billion in the first five months of 2019, my belief of the
industry growing at a fast pace yet again gets strengthened. The
industry today provides jobs to nearly 2.4 million people in Vietnam,
of which over 80 per cent constitute women.
Women have been the strong foundation on which the industry in
Vietnam has been built upon over the years, and I do not just mean
the women workers in garment and textile factories. A lot of women
in Vietnam have taken on the mantle of leadership, especially in
garment and textile sector, and they all have been doing a wonderful
job. One such lady has been Tuyet Mai, Secretary General, VITAS,
whom my team has had the fortune of meeting and talking to
several times. Her strong vision and concise understanding of the
industry has been hugely responsible for the growth of the garment
and textile industry in the country in the last few years.
And, that’s why my team is doubly excited to meet her again during
our visit to the country later this month. Talking about strong
women like her, it gives me more pleasure to see my team come
out with a cover story on women in this issue – women who have
inspired other women to be the best in whatever they do, be it in
garment industry or for that matter any other industry. As I have
always said, they are the ‘spine’ of the industry.
In this story, we have spoken to some such inspiring women leaders
of the industry and understood their vision that has helped them
and the country move towards the path of growth and success. Yes,
the country keeps growing and women are playing a big role in it.
US $ 12.1 billion export earnings from apparels and textiles in just
5 months, is good enough indication that the country will surpass
the projected target of US $ 40 billion much before the year ends,
considering several companies are booked for the whole year.
This issue also gives an insight into the role played by the Fair Wear
Foundation (FWF) in promoting sustainable fashion or sustainable
business in Vietnam and thereby bring some improvement in the
lives of garment workers. The efforts put in by FWF, especially to
arrest the gender-based violence in Vietnam’s garment factories,
are truly commendable. What impresses me the most about them
is that they execute what they plan – very few have been able to do
that successfully.
What makes my team’s visit to the country this time different is
that they will be accompanied by a senior management team,
wherein we plan to meet some of industry leaders and I am sure the
experience is going to be as enthralling as it always has been.
FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK…

COVER STORY
T
eam Apparel Online, during its numerous
visits to Vietnam, met many such inspiring
women leaders and understood their vision that
is taking them and the nation on the path of progress.
Here in this issue, we will focus on the vision that
these women leaders have to take Vietnam forward.
Nguyen Thi Tuyet Mai, Secretary General,
VITAS, is one such lady who has been very clear
about her thoughts on the country’s garment and
textile industry. Everyone in Vietnam, who is a part
of the textile industry, knows Tuyet Mai – the face
of VITAS. When she spoke about the efforts put by
VITAS to encourage the growth of small and medium
enterprises (SMEs) in Vietnam, the conviction
in her voice complemented the confidence of the
organisation.
Corroborating further on the same, Tuyet Mai
averred, “There are special projects providing
training courses to our members. These projects
are supported by companies from Korea, Germany
and Bureau Veritas wherein we make them aware
of all the dos and don’ts that are essential to export
apparels to USA and Europe. Besides, we also
conduct seminars and help them understand business
sustainability and environmental sustainability.”
It’s been a struggle for SMEs to find a footing in
the industry unlike bigwigs, like Saitex, Nhabe
Corporation or Phong Phu Corporation. Talking
of Phong Phu Corporation immediately reminds
one of the lady with the magnetic personality –
Phan Kim Hang, Vice General Director, Phong
Phu Corporation. The company is a big name in
Vietnam’s apparel and textile sector over the last five
ENCOURAGING FEMALE
ENTREPRENEURSHIP
JENNIFER
NGUYEN
“When I was new into
fashion, I launched 1 store
and it did well; and within
no time 2 more stores
were opened. Soon, I had
unveiled 5 more stores and
it was around the same
time Vietnamese market
started booming. Now
the competition is tough.
Gradually, Vietnam started
doing very well in garment
production too and so I
thought there was no better
time than now to get into it.”
WOMEN LEADERS IN VIETNAM’s GARMENT AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY
The garment and
textile industry in
Vietnam has played
a significant role
in enhancing the
social and economic
conditions of the
country. The sector
today accounts for
nearly 2.4 million
jobs, with women
constituting 80 per
cent of these. Women
workforce have been
effectively the spine of
Vietnam’s industry over
last several years. It is
pertinent to note that
a lot of women have
not only taken on the
mantle of leadership
but have also been an
inspiring and guiding
force for many other
women striving
to make a mark in
the industry.

COVER STORY
decades and Phan Kim Hang’s contribution towards it
is immeasurable.
While substantiating on how Phong Phu has successfully
managed to carve a niche for itself, the Vice General
Director remarked, “We try to provide the best response
to the requirement of the customer both in garments and
fabrics, so that customers get everything on time. That
is what gives us an edge over our competitors; we have
been doing it consistently with good amount of success.”
Phong Phu Corporation, a renowned manufacturer of
denim and knitted fabrics in Vietnam, has also been
a leader in setting up a highly creative and customer-
oriented product development team and huge credit for
that goes to Phan Kim Hang. She has made it a norm
that the core management at Phong Phu Corporation
– including herself – is committed to enhancing the
product development that is central to weaving, spinning
and garmenting.
There is nothing that drives the growth of the company
than the complete involvement of the management in
understanding and executing the process and Phan Kim
Hang has ensured it happens the way she wants it to
happen. Endorsing the same thoughts is Meishin Bui,
Managing Director, 5S Interlining – the lady with an
ever smiling and a strong conviction in everything she
does. In a candid tête-à-tête with Team Apparel Online,
Meishin said that the management is an active part of
the internal training programmes at 5S Interlining. She
said that organised training and active involvement
of management in training programmes is the key to
success of any organisation, and 5S Interlining strongly
believes in it.
To put it in her own words, “We ensure that both sales
team and the client servicing team are well acquainted
with the products that are manufactured by us. We
train every sales person who joins us and I personally
give each of them knowledge about the fabric quality
of the product. This is our training process and I am a
part of it.” 5S Interlining is today one of the prominent
interlining suppliers in Vietnam with wide range of
interlinings for more than 150 items, including non-
woven, non-fused, woven fusible, woven, top fuse and
tear away for embroidery.
“My company is keen to tell the whole world about
the way HP Link Fashion works,” said Ana Huynh,
Director of the company. No vision could be bigger than
the intent to grow bigger than the competitors, and at
HP Link Fashion, it does not end there. The efforts,
initiatives and the conviction of the young lady, who
also owns the company, are worth every applause. In
its bid to grow big, the company recently opened a new
well-equipped sample room in its plush office located in
Khanh Thi
Thuc Ho
“Our objective was
and will always
be to discover
the talent in an
individual and then
hone those talents to
make them the best
for the future.”

Meishin Bui
“We ensure that both
sales team and the
client servicing team
are well acquainted
with the products that
are manufactured by
us. We train every sales
person who joins us and
I personally give each of
them knowledge about
the fabric quality of
the product. This is our
training process and I am
a part of it.”
Ho Chi Minh City. The intent has been to make samples
at a rapid pace for customers. Elucidating on the same,
Ana said, “I have complete ability to take orders very
fast. While most of the factories take 15 days to finish a
sample, we at HP Link Fashion take 2 or 3 days at the
most to complete a sample.”
What has been fast working towards HP Link Fashion’s
advantage is that they have a big factory that produces
sportswear, a big office and a well-equipped sample
room, both at the factory and in the office. Ana, who also
happens to be the owner, believes that the philosophy
at HP Link Fashion is not just to defeat the challenges
but also to turn those challenges into one’s strengths –
a mindset that is essential to drive the company and the
nation towards success.
The University of Technical Education in Ho Chi Minh
City has been an institute, which has over the last
several years, taken up the challenge – and succeeded
– the challenge of discovering as well as nurturing the
best candidates for the country’s garment and textile
industry. And, one person who has been keeping it going
for the institute is Khanh Thi Thuc Ho, Head, Fashion
Design Section, University of Technical Education.
While she could easily be passed off as a student, it is
only after meeting her that one realises ‘the mine of
knowledge’ the lady is.
“Our objective was and will always be to discover the
talent in an individual and then hone those talents to
make them the best for the future,” underlined Khanh.
Her vision matches exactly with that of the institute. She
said that when everything from the process of enrolment
to the syllabus of the 4-year course is very tough, it
helps in producing the best professionals…, and best
professionals define the industry.
The Institute teaches the students everything from
designing and sewing to sampling, marketing and
merchandising. Khanh says what delights her most is that
despite having nearly 12 universities all across Vietnam,
the training methods and elite faculty members make The
University of Technical Education the best in the country.
The story of young Jennifer Nguyen, Owner, Candy
Rox Studio is also interesting. From a fashion studio
COVER STORY
Phan Kim Hang
“We try to provide
the best response
to the requirement
of the customer
both in garments
and fabrics, so
that customers
get everything
on time. That
is what gives us
an edge over our
competitors; we
have been doing
it consistently
with good amount
of success.”
Phan Kim Hang (second from right), Vice General Director, Phong Phu Corporation has been instrumental in the growth of this company

COVER STORY
Ana Huynh
“I have complete ability to
take orders very fast. While
most of the factories take
15 days to finish a sample,
we at HP Link Fashion take
2 or 3 days at the most to
complete a sample. My
company is keen to tell the
whole world about the way
HP Link Fashion works. No
vision could be bigger than
the intent to grow bigger
than the competitors, and
at HP Link Fashion, it does
not end there.”
in guiding and directing not only other designers of her
product development team, but also the pattern makers,
fabric cutters and seamstress workers. “I guide my team
to give what I exactly want. I also go and search the
fabrics and help the team prepare sample according to
customer specifications,” said Jennifer.
What makes the contribution of women in business
notable is the struggle that they almost and always have
to undergo to keep a balance between work and home.
Utilising her sheer skill to be the best at both places
deserves every award and recognition. The Women
Leaders International Forum is an annual event held
in March by the Women Leaders International Network
(WLIN), under the direction of the Vietnam Women
Entrepreneurs Council. During the past 4 years, the
Women Leaders International Forum has made a lot of
buzz in the local and international business community,
confirming the vision of women in the new age – women
can rise and assert themselves as leaders. It will indeed
be great to see a lot of women from Vietnam’s garment
and textile sector receive this award in future.
owner to now being in apparel production business,
clearly shows the pace at which Jennifer and her
company has been growing in recent years. Having
done her education in the West, she is one Vietnamese
entrepreneur whose strong command over English
language has strengthened her leadership credentials.
“When I was new into fashion, I launched 1 store and it
did well; and within no time 2 more stores were opened.
Soon, I had unreiled 5 more stores, and it was around the
same time that Vietnamese market also started booming.
Now the competition is tough. Gradually, Vietnam started
doing very well in garment production too and so I
thought there was no better time than now to get into it,”
averred Jennifer.
Quite like what Phan Kim Hang does, Jennifer has also
been actively involved in the product development of her
company and is keen to take it to the highest possible
level of quality and service. Compared to the other
women we discussed, she may be a small entrepreneur
now, but has all the potential to join the big league. Being
a fashion designer herself, Jennifer has been successful
The garment
sector in Vietnam
today accounts
for nearly 2.4
million jobs,
with women
constituting 80
per cent of these.
The Women
Leaders
International
Forum is an
annual event held
in March by the
Women Leaders
International
Network (WLIN),
under the
direction of the
Vietnam Women
Entrepreneurs
Council.
What makes the
contribution
of women in
business notable
is the struggle that
they almost and
always have to
undergo to keep
balance between
work and home.

In what is seen as an effort
to promote Indian textiles
overseas while also strengthen
bilateral trade ties, an Indian
business delegation comprising
representatives of 30 Indian
companies under the leadership
of the Chairman of the Indian
Silk Export Promotion Council
Dr. Bimal Mawandia met with
their Vietnamese counterparts
at a buyer-seller meet in Ho Chi
Minh City (HCMC) of Vietnam
recently.
“India is promoting exports of
all textiles. We are presenting
the silk sector in India and
as per the guidance of the
Government of India, we want
to increase exports and we are
exploring different markets
worldwide. We came here to
eveningwear, beachwear, fashion
accessories, tops, bottoms,
trousers and jacket makers;
along with those producing silk
and other fabrics.
“Vietnamese garment and
textile companies want to have
stronger co-operation with
Indian counterparts. They have
high demand for importing
raw materials from India,”
observed Chairman of the HCM
City Association of Garment
Textile Embroidery-Knitting,
Phạm Xuân Hồng.
Phạm further underlined that
trade relations between India
and Vietnam in RMG and
textile sector had increased
significantly over the years but
were still moderate considering
the potential of the two countries.
Amongst the Indian companies
were readymade garment
manufacturers; Pareo shawls,
promote export of not only silk but
also other fibres in this market,”
underlined Dr. Mawandia.
India-Vietnam business leaders meet to strengthen trade ties;
promote Indian silk and fabrics
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, a
prominent developer of ‘spider
silk’ textiles, announced that its
subsidiary Prodigy Textiles has
signed a 5-year lease on a factory
in Quang Nam province in Vietnam.
The factory covering an area
of 50,000 square feet aims to
enhance the company’s production
capacity of its proprietary
recombinant spider silk
technologies. While expressing
happiness over his team’s effort
in Vietnam, Jon Rice, COO, Kraig
Biocraft Laboratories, said that
the Kraig team under the able
leadership of Kenneth Le has
been doing a great job in scouting,
selecting and negotiating the
terms of the agreement.
Further on the same, he added
that the new factory’s nearness
to mulberry fields as well as
easy access to shipping ports
would go a long way in helping
Kraig Labs’ Vietnam factory signs lease to expand production capacity
Kraig Biocraft introduce spider
silk technology in world textile
market. The company soon
expects the technology to get
transferred to the new factory
from the existing temporary
facility used by Prodigy Textiles.
It is worth noting here that
protective garments for military
are one of the several applications
of textiles made from these strong
fibres.
VIETNAM & BEYOND

VIETNAM & BEYOND
After the resounding
success of the third edition,
Denimsandjeans.com show,
Vietnam’s international denim
exhibition, will be back with its
fourth edition in June with a
focus on sustainable growth and
development.
The two-day event, which begins
on 12 June, is themed ‘My Earth,
My Denim’ and will feature
interesting and informative talks,
seminars and knowledge-sharing
sessions.
One of the major highlights of
‘Denim Talks’ will be a talk
by Joanne Swift, Ex-Creative
Director, Mamiye Brothers. She
will be speaking on current
trends in retail sector as well
IKEA is planning to launch its new
app to allow its customers to shop
for products directly from their
homes, eliminating the need to visit
its vast network of self-service, out
of town stores.
The new app would allow
customers to enter their room
dimensions to ensure a good fit and
choose from different styles and
‘life stages’ to narrow down the
selection. The retailer is changing
its business model to focus on
making it easier for customers to
shop online, rather than forcing
them to come to their warehouses.
While it’s known for giant stores on
the outskirts of towns, it’s testing
smaller urban locations that only
carry a fraction of the lineup.
Combined with the app, shoppers
can see some products in person
while still having access to the
fuller catalogue. It could tweak its
traditional stores to focus more
on carrying online stock than
serving in-person customers. “It
is a completely new experience.
sustainable denim collections at
the event that is expected to get
visitors from many continents and
countries including China, Japan,
Korea, US and Europe.
Other retailers experimenting
with augmented reality include
Williams-Sonoma, which bought
3D imaging firm Outward in 2017,
and US start-up Modsy, which
raised US $ 37 million this month
to expand in 360-degree room and
furniture imaging.
between China and Vietnam’
and ‘Growth through sustainable
denim production’. Over 40 denim
companies from across the world
will be showcasing the best of their
– including Germany, the United
States and China – by the end of
the year. In 2017, IKEA originally
launched an augmented reality app
which allowed customers to see
how more than 2,000 items would
fit into their homes; however they
could not shop from there.
as sustainability for consumers,
buyers and manufacturers.
Leo Gu, General Manager,
Prosperity Textile, will not
only discuss opportunities and
challenges in the denim industry
but also share his first-hand
experience of sustainable
denim at Prosperity’s mills in
Vietnam and China – ranging
from sourcing of raw materials
and new recycling methods to
next generation denim business
models.
The event will also bring several
denim experts from USA, Europe
and Hong Kong who will discuss
varying topics on sustainability
in denim, including ‘Sustainable
denim production – a comparison
The app is combined with the
store experience, with the online
experience,” Barbara Martin
Coppola, Chief Digital Officer
at IKEA, said. IKEA is initially
launching this app in France and
The Netherlands and will then roll
out in IKEA’s top eight markets
Denimsandjeans Vietnam 2019 to focus on sustainable development
IKEA revamping app to enable online shopping

Poney, a well-known Malaysian-
based kidswear retailer, unveiled
its new flagship store at the newly
opened Central i-City shopping
Vietnam is all set to become the
favourite manufacturer of globally
renowned fashion brands, mainly
owing to the many free trade
agreements (FTAs) signed by the
country recently.
While confirming on the same,
Pham Thiet Hoa, Director,
Ho Chi Minh City Investment
and Trade Promotion Centre,
said that several international
brands are now buying apparels
from Vietnam as there was
a significant improvement in
the supply chains for locally
manufactured products. He
further added that competitive
pricing along with preferential
policies gave Vietnam an edge
over all the other garment hubs.
In the recently concluded Global
Sources Fashion Show in Hong
Kong, over 30 local manufacturers
from Vietnam had showcased
offer the highest quality of
clothes and accessories for
newborns, babies and kids up
to 12 years and the same will
be displayed at the new store.
The Central i-City, which was
launched earlier this year, has
the distinction of being the first
shopping centre in Malaysia
to be opened by Thailand’s
Central Group.
The opening day saw the Group
offering sales of products up
to 50 per cent at Central i-City,
which attracted huge crowd of
shoppers. Poney had first opened
its flagship store in Malaysia
back in 1997 at the popular
KLCC Shopping Mall. In less
than 2 decades, the Malaysian
retailer spread its wings globally
by opening stores in China,
Singapore, Spain, Indonesia,
Middle East and several
other countries.
the best of their garment, textile
and handicraft items, which had
generated good response.
In fact, a lot of these Vietnamese
manufacturers are expecting
big orders from brands such
as Li & Fung, Target, Marks
& Spencer, Tesco, Swarovski,
K-Swiss, among several others.
Besides, the FTAs signed with
European Union (EU) have
already undergone the legal
review process and are now just
awaiting the approval of country’s
National Assembly in June 2019.
Also, once the Comprehensive
and Progressive Agreement
for Trans-Pacific Partnership
(CPTPP) becomes fully
operational, it could help Vietnam
increase its market share in
CPTPP member nations and make
the nation the favourite of every
big fashion brand.
and light setting, next to Trudy
& Teddy. All the three brands
housed by Poney, namely Poney,
Baby Poney and Poney Enfants,
complex in Kuala Lumpur. The
new store will see the Poney
Group display the complete
range of its brands in a bright
Poney opens new store at Central i-City, Kuala Lumpur
Vietnam fast becoming a favourite of global fashion brands
Over 30 local
manufacturers from
Vietnam showcased
the best of their
garment and textile
products at Global
Sources Fashion
Show.
Competitive pricing
and preferential
policies give
Vietnam an edge
over all the other
garment hubs.
VIETNAM & BEYOND

Vietnam has, reportedly, raked
in more than US $ 9.4 billion by
exporting apparels and textiles
during the period from January to
April 2019. While confirming this,
the Ministry of Industry and Trade
said that the amount earned is a 9.8
per cent increase year-on-year.
In fact, in April alone, the country’s
garment and textile sector
generated US $ 2.3 billion from
exports, which is a jump of 7.1 per
cent. The increase hasn’t come
as a surprise as several garment
companies were booked for the
first 6 months of 2019, with some
of them being booked till December
2019. Many industry experts,
therefore, predict that the industry
will surpass its projected apparel
and textile export target of US $ 40
billion much before the year ends.
Target Corporation has
announced its first quarter 2019
result, including its first quarter
comparable sales growth, which
went up by 4.8 per cent driven
by a 4.3 per cent increase in
comparable traffic.
“Target had an outstanding first
quarter, as our team delivered a
great experience for our guests
and drove strong growth in traffic,
comparable sales, operating
income and earnings per share,”
said Brian Cornell, Chairman
and CEO of Target Corporation,
adding, “Over the last two
years, we have made important
investments to build a durable
operating and financial model that
drives consumer relevance and
sustainable growth. Target’s first
quarter performance and market-
brands, remodel and open more
stores and invest in our team.
We’re confident that we’re well-
positioned to deliver strong
financial performance in 2019 and
beyond.” Target also reported
GAAP earnings per share (EPS)
from continuing operations of US
$ 1.53 in first quarter 2019, up 15.1
per cent from US $ 1.33 in first
quarter of 2018. The first quarter
adjusted EPS was US $ 1.53, up
15.9 per cent from US $ 1.32 in the
first quarter of 2018.
For full-year 2019, Target
expects a low- to mid-single digit
increase in comparable sales,
a mid-single digit increase in
operating income, and both GAAP
EPS from continuing operations
and adjusted EPS of US $ 5.75 to
US $ 6.05.
extend the reach of our same-day
fulfilment options, strengthen our
portfolio of owned and exclusive
In 2018 too, the garment and
textile export target was revised
to US $ 35 billion in the middle
of the year; however, the country
went on to achieve an impressive
US $ 36 billion by the end of 2018.
However, one area where Vietnam
still struggles is its inability to
satisfy the export market with the
quality of its local clothes, which is
below average.
share gains demonstrate that the
model is working. Throughout
this year, we will continue to
The Vietnam Textile and Apparel
Association (VITAS) and the World
Wildlife Fund (WWF) have come
together yet again to promote eco-
friendliness in Vietnam’s garment
and textile industry. This was
stressed at the meeting for VITAS’
Environment Committee that was
held in Hanoi on 7 May 2019.
Both the organisations had met late
last year too to initiate a project
to help the garment and textile
industry go green in Vietnam.
Truong Van Cam, Vice Chairman,
VITAS, said that though the
garment and textile industry in
Vietnam was going through a
great phase with export earnings
touching US $ 36 billion in 2018, yet
one cannot overlook the fact that
the industry is one of the biggest
greenhouse gas emitters – not far
behind electricity production and
agriculture.
The project initiated by VITAS
and WWF focuses on improving
water management and energy
sustainability. The three-year
project, from 2018 to 2020,
aims to transform the country’s
garment and textile industry into
green industry and thereby bring
economic benefits to the country.
Talking about global customers’
growing preference for eco-
friendly business, Hoang Viet,
Sustainable Development
Programme Manager, WWF
Vietnam, said, “Consumers’ shift
towards sustainability is now
compelling global fashion brands
to change their production modes
with the objective of meeting high
environmental standards.”
VITAS and WWF continue their
endeavour to promote eco-friendly
garment industry
Vietnam’s garment and textile
sector witnesses growth in
Jan.-Apr. 2019
Target announces Q1 result
In April ’19 alone,
the country’s
garment and textile
sector generated
US $ 2.3 billion from
exports, which is a
jump of 7.1 per cent.
VIETNAM & BEYOND

GOING ALL OUT TO
IMPROVE THE LIVES OF
GARMENT WORKERS IN
VIETNAM
VIETNAM INSIGHT
W
hen Prime Minister Nguyen
Xuan Phuc and his Dutch
counterpart Mark Rutte
attended the Sustainable Fashion
show, themed ‘Walk the Talk’ on
9 April 2019 in Hanoi, the thunderous
applause that both of them received
was a clear indication of Vietnam’s
commitment towards sustainable
fashion. And, one cannot overlook the
significant role Fair Wear Foundation
(FWF) had to play in making the
event a success.
The show was organised by FWF
and the Dutch Embassy in Vietnam
in association with FWF’s partner
in Vietnam, CNV Internationaal. The
Amsterdam-based FWF is a non-
profit organisation that closely works
with apparel brands, factories, trade
unions, NGOs and Governments
to improve working conditions for
garment workers in 11 production
countries across Asia, Europe and
Africa. While applauding the efforts of
Vietnamese Premier and his Government
to make the country’s apparel and
textile sector sustainable, the Dutch
Prime Minister Mark Rutte said, “We
all need to ensure that women and men
who make clothes for us not only must
have safe workplace but should also
get wages that can cover their actual
cost of living.” His thoughts were fully
endorsed by Alexander Kohnstamm,
Director, FWF.
This is not the first time FWF has initiated
efforts to promote workers’ welfare
in Vietnam. Late 2017 had seen FWF
organising the Gender Forum in Ha Long
Bay during which several business firms
and Government officials along with
NGOs and trade unions came together
and shared solutions to help fight and
end gender-based violence in Vietnamese
garment factories. Despite the fact
that Vietnam has skilled and educated
workforce in garment sector, the truth of
the matter has also been that millions of
female garment workers are victims of
harassment at work.
FWF has been initiating efforts to promote workers’
welfare in Vietnam. Late 2017 had seen FWF organising
the Gender Forum in Ha Long Bay during which several
business firms and Government officials along with
NGOs and trade unions came together and shared
solutions to help fight and end gender-based violence in
Vietnamese garment factories.
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VIETNAM INSIGHT
NGOs in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Hai
Phuong. It is these stakeholders who have,
over the years, formed the basis of FWF’s
working strategy in Vietnam. Notably,
last year, FWF conducted 23 factory
audits at members’ suppliers and handled
13 new complaints.
FWF has also been ensuring that the
industry is completely aware of all the
processes in the fashion and apparel
supply chain right from the apparel
factories in Ho Chi Minh City and
Hanoi to the stores in Amsterdam. Its
activities in Vietnam have lately also
focused on the implementation of the
Workplace Education Programme, to raise
awareness on labour rights and grievance
There were also reports of workers being
abused verbally and physically, subjected
to forced labour and even being assaulted
in some cases. FWF has been ensuring
that through such forums, some solutions
are given to arrest such violence. In fact,
the idea of the first Gender Forum to be
initiated by FWF was to prevent violence
against men and women in the garment
sector through the exchange of information
and creation of networks.
FWF has been successfully organising
such training and knowledge-sharing
events in partnership with International
Training Centre of the ILO (ITCILO) and
Dutch unions Mondiaal FNV and CNV
Internationaal, who have been long-
time partners of FWF in Vietnam in the
Strategic Partnership for Garment Supply
Chain Transformation. In this regard, it
is imperative to note that FWF has also
been regularly working on anti-harassment
committees in garment factories in
Bangladesh and India.
Within the framework of the strategic
partnership with CNV Internationaal and
the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs,
FWF has also been implementing several
programmes to improve lobbying and
advocacy capacity of trade unions and
labour-related NGOs by enhancing their
understanding of international garment
supply chains. This partnership aims at
living wages and social dialogue along with
ending gender-based violence in country’s
apparel sector.
In 2018, FWF had 29 member companies
that sourced from nearly 155 factories
in Vietnam, with most of them located in
and around Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.
What has made FWF work so effectively in
Vietnam has been its concise strategy and
its equally adept execution. Besides having
a local audit team in Ho Chi Minh City and
Hanoi and a complaints handler in Hanoi,
FWF has been consistently in contact with
the Vietnam Chamber of Commerce and
Industry (VCCI), the Vietnam Ministry
of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs
(MOLISA), the Vietnam trade union
VGCL and a number of grassroots labour
mechanisms. It is noteworthy that in 2018,
FWF organised 18 training sessions for
both management and workers.
The FWF Code of Labour Practices
is based on the conventions of the
International Labour Organization (ILO)
and the Universal Declaration on Human
Rights. It ensures employment is freely
chosen and there is no discrimination,
there is no exploitation of child labour,
there is freedom of association and right to
collective bargaining, payment of a living
wage, no excessive working hours, safe
and healthy working conditions and legally
binding employment relationship. Speaking
more on the same, Sebastian Sasse,
General Director, bei S4 Fashion Partner
FWF had a big role to play in organising the
Sustainable Fashion show themed ‘Walk the Talk’,
which was held on 9 April 2019 in Hanoi. The show was
attended by Prime Minister Nguyen Xuan Phuc and his
Dutch counterpart Mark Rutte
The Sustainable Fashion
show in Hanoi

SEBASTIAN SASSE
“FWF does check all
factories according to the
Code of Labour Practices
and after audit, it also
gives an action plan to
the factories to rework
on the observations;
however, I feel FWF also
needs to strictly check
on their part to ensure if
there is any improvement.
This is one area FWF
needs to work on.” -
Vietnam Ltd., averred, “FWF does check
all factories according to the Code of
Labour Practices and after audit, it also
gives an action plan to the factories to
rework on the observations; however, I feel
FWF also needs to strictly check on their
part to ensure if there is any improvement.
This is one area FWF needs to work on.”
FWF, indeed, has some challenges ahead
to be overcome in Vietnam and the good
part is that it is on the way to combat
those challenges.
So what are the biggest
challenges for FWF in Vietnam!
While US is today the biggest market
for apparels from Vietnam, Japan and
EU stand at second and third position
respectively. The formalisation of free trade
agreement (FTA) between Europe and
Vietnam is expected to further enhance
business opportunities in Vietnam. And
this could also enable creating major
revisions in labour laws, especially with
regard to freedom of association. The
Vietnam General Confederation of Labour,
better known as VGCL, is today the
only recognised union organisation and
therefore freedom of association remains
the most challenging area for FWF in
Vietnam mainly in terms of labour rights.
Most of the textile and garment factory
unions are reliant on management,
and therefore many times, they fail in
representing the workers especially in
matters of negotiation with management.
Similarly, though law encourages social
dialogue at the workplace, union’s
weakness does not allow the law to be
effectively implemented. FWF feels it has
a big role to play in the coming years to
combat this challenge.
Early this year, the Government of
Vietnam, through a tripartite National
Wage Council, had increased the minimum
wage between €110 and €160 depending
on the zones. Though this tripartite
structure is promising and has set a good
example for many Asian manufacturing
nations, the biggest challenge for FWF,
however, is to include factory workers
in collective bargaining and wage
negotiations. Despite increase in wage
structure, the workers are still struggling
to meet their daily ends.
In one of its audits, FWF highlighted
that excessive overtime is the major
violation of workers’ rights in garment
factories across Vietnam. Workers majorly
depend on wages earned during overtime
hours, and do not receive the same on
time severely impacts their livelihood.
Reducing excessive overtime in the
Vietnamese garment industry remains
another major challenge for brands
and factories in Vietnam.
Some of the other challenges include
incomplete labour contracts, resignation
policies not correctly implemented and
very little awareness among garment
workers about their rights. The good
thing, though, is that the garment
industry in Vietnam, in general, has
witnessed a significant improvement
in health and safety standards and is
continuously improving its internal
compliance system, and with the FWF
committed to overcome the existing
challenges, one can see the lives of
garment workers on an upswing.
JOHN WOODEN
American basketball legend
“When you improve a little each
day, eventually big things occur.”
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VIETNAM INSIGHT
FWF has been successfully organising training and knowledge-sharing events in association with international organisations

EVENT REVIEW
T
his four-day long event had a number
of activities that kept visitors engaged
in understanding the innovations
and technologies through seminars and
demonstrations. It can be stated that Texprocess
was also all about digital solutions for the
apparel and textile sector – from fully networked
production lines in the form of micro-factories
and machines capable of autonomous learning
to cloud-based collaboration between designers,
product developers, manufacturers and retailers
across the globe.
Innovations showcased at Texprocess
Among the exhibitors showcasing their cutting-
edge innovations were Duerkopp Adler, Vibemac,
Eastman Machine Company, Juki, Morgan
Tecnica, Efka, Richpeace, Bullmer, Gerber
Technology, Euromac, Assyst GmbH and Vetron.
Keeping pace with the industry trends, the
exhibitors displayed a wide array of their products
and some of them even utilised Texprocess
as a platform to launch their much-awaited
technologies; two of them – M-TYPE DELTA
and VETRON VIPER even bagged Texprocess
Innovation Award by the jury members.
M-TYPE DELTA sewing system made by Duerkopp
Adler AG was the one which impressed jury
with its industrial-sewing concept. DELTA can
be integrated into a fully digitalised sewing
production line for automotive interiors, home
upholstery, leather goods and technical textiles.
Using digital solutions to the maximum extent,
the machine guides the operator and continuously
augments its functions and ‘knowledge’. The
award to DELTA system was given in ‘New
Technology’ category.
The second award in this category went to Vetron
Typical Europe GmbH for VETRON VIPER, an
ultra-lightweight sewing system made using
carbon components. The system weighs a total of
6 kg, including yarn corps and drive motor, which
means a smaller and more cost-effective industrial
robot can be used in the sewing process. Thus,
the solution is compact, flexible and easy to install
and remove.
Jeans automation pioneer Vibemac displayed
its upcoming technological breakthrough in a
specially made ‘secret room’, for which the access
was granted only to VIP customers. Inside it,
Vibemac displayed the most important innovation
of the company, the first feed-off-the-arm unit,
100 per cent Made in Vibemac. This unit is made
in special edition with blue and yellow colour
details, to celebrate Verona, the hometown of
Texprocess 2019
AI AND IOT
INTEGRATED
TECHNOLOGY
GAINING GROUND
Texprocess 2019, held in Frankfurt (Germany) from
14th to 17th May, marked a total of 317 exhibitors from
34 countries who showcased the latest processing
technologies and sewing systems as well as an array
of IT and logistics solutions. The increased number of
exhibitors from past editions reflect the strong growth in
the global apparel and textile industry.
Team Vibemac with its dealers and business associates (This jeans automation pioneer registered a successful event this time as well)

EVENT REVIEW
Anshuman Dash (second from left), Marketing Director, H&H with Juki team
Wade Stevenson (second from left), President,
Eastman Machine Company with his team
Sergio Gori (extreme right), CEO, FKgroup giving machine demonstration to visitors
Tuncay KORU, VP, International Sales & Marketing, Robotech
Team Morgan Tecnica and Speed Step, led by Federica Giachetti (fourth from right), President, Morgan
Tecnica, saw massive visitation from customers from all around the world

Vibemac with the colours of its own flag. Its
key characteristics are highest speed in the
world, differential feed dog, innovative hybrid
oil system, besides many more.
Micro-factories grab the attention
This edition of the world’s leading trade
fair will be remembered for its approach
towards ‘Micro-factory’ which garnered
massive positive response from the visitors.
Digitisation, networking and Industry 4.0
played a major role in the event. Texprocess
2019 featured five micro-factories – Digital
Textile Micro-Factory; Smart Textiles
Micro-Factory; World of Digital Fashion;
Modern Innovative Seat Design; and Pixel
to Product. Gemini CAD was overwhelmed
to see the response of its own micro-factory
‘Pixel to Product’ with which the company
was able to clearly show the benefits of made-
to-measure garments and the end-to-end
workflow that takes place to produce them.
Artificial Intelligence (AI) is
becoming an integral part of
auto-cutters
All the cutting solution providers unleashed
their best of cutting technologies in the event
and a common thread among all was the
use of AI and machine learning tools in their
products. Bullmer, Gerber, Morgan Tecnica
and Eastman shared that their machines
can sense possible breakdown in advance
which can help users better manage their
production with less maintenance time.
Federica Giachetti, President, Morgan
Tecnica shared. “We imbibed industry 4.0 in
our cutters a decade back when this concept
was not known to people in apparel and
textile industry. Sensors in our cutters can
automatically diagnose possible upcoming
defects and warn users in advance so that
they can take preventive measures.”
Technical advanced features of any machine
are complemented with their ease of use
and Gerber Technology is never behind at
this. KERI, Paragon cutter’s Knowledge
Experience & Reference Interface, guides the
users through the cutting process to enable
them to learn operating quickly. Based on
the concept of AI, KERI also learns from
operators over a period of time so that in
future, users can rely on built-in intelligence.
“Data is of foremost importance to a factory.
However, instead of examining heaps of data,
managers need precise data and that’s where
KERI comes into play. KERI can generate
a concise report including parameters like
total cutting time, idle time, total units cuts,
machine run time, etc,” explained Sajith
Kumar, Vice President, IIGM who takes
care of Gerber’s market in India.
Innovation in yarns and threads
A number of yarn and thread suppliers
made their presence felt in Texprocess
including AMANN Group, A&E, Madeira,
Coloreel and Durak. AMANN Group unveiled
its ‘intelligent thread’ which is made up of
‘smart yarns’ and can be used as sensors
to transfer media. AMANN has made it
possible to integrate ‘conductive technology’
through smart threads in daily life products
such as car seats, home textiles and even in
clothing. “These threads can sense the finger
movement and work as conductive material
in order to light up the lamps or bulbs at
home and people can get rid of weight of
plastic,” elaborated Barbara Binder, Head
of Global Marketing, AMANN Group.
Holger Labes, the main pillar of VETRON, stated that VETRON VIPER got
Texprocess Innovation Award for its innovative robotic sewing system
Ashok Chhajer (second from left), Director, Krishna Lamicoat with his team
EVENT REVIEW

In another innovative display, AMANN showed
how its conductive thread can help innovate
the forward and backward movement of a
car seat. On car seat handle, a textile switch
is there which is made of highly conductive
silver thread. Whenever a person presses this
switch, car seat moves forward or backward
sensing the touch of fingers.
Swedish technology company Coloreel
attracted a lot of visitors to its booth for its
instant thread colouring technology. Coloreel
technology enables high-quality colouring of
textile thread on-demand and the first product
based on this technology is a groundbreaking
unit for industrial embroidery machines.
By instantly colouring the thread during
production, it enables unique designs and
vastly improves overall production efficiency.
According to Coloreel team, “We use Coloreel
Studio, a newly developed software, for
colorisation of embroidery design. The
program is the link between digitisation
software and the Coloreel unit. The user can
use the same DST file that the user loads into
his/her embroidery machine.”
Visitors made Texprocess a
successful event
Visitors are the most significant part of
any trade show and Texprocess was not
an exception. Other than the countries of
Europe, the event witnessed visitation from
India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka,
Indonesia, Turkey, Colombia and Ethiopia.
It’s a well-known fact that labour cost in
garment manufacturing is rising worldwide
and manufacturers want more uniformity in
product quality with minimum wastage. The
manufacturers who visited the event looked
for some technology which can fulfil both
these requirements. Sujeewa Imbulgoda,
Director (Operations), Artistic Milliners,
Pakistan who seemed quite content with the
kind of technologies that were up on display
told that he attended Texprocess in 2015
and now comparing it to the 2019 edition, he
found the trend has changed from traditional
to automation and currently, technology
suppliers are moving on to imbibe more
robotics in their technology.
“We are one of the leading denim suppliers
of Pakistan and I am looking forward to
some automats for denim manufacturing
as well as some cutting solutions which
can reduce human efforts and give
product quality as desired,” averred
Sujeewa. He got in touch with Vibemac,
Jam International and SipItaly for denim
automats, while he preferred Gerber, IMA
and Tukatech for cutting solutions and took
his discussions to the next level with them,
finalisation of which might be done in the
next few weeks.
Faruq Ahmed, Managing Director, Teen
Age Modern Fashion Ltd., Bangladesh
and Maniwanen Marimutu, Chairman, PT
Busana Group, Indonesia too expressed
their opinions on the same lines as they
visited the fair to find automats that can
reduce human efforts and improve their
efficiency, productivity and quality.
Not just exporters, there were visitors from
universities and educational institutes
as well and they learnt how well the
industry is moving to adopt industry 4.0
concepts. Endorsing the same, Dr. Evridiki
Papachristou, Researcher and Fashion
Engineer, University of Crete, Greece
said, “I visited Texprocess, the most
important international event on industry
4.0, digitisation, latest technology and new
ideas and came back quite inspired. I was
very impressed by the well-structured
and organised exhibition area and the
different approaches that this technological
trade fair was covering.” Evridiki also
enjoyed networking, demonstrations of new
versions of the most influential software
companies in fashion industry and of course
the press conferences. “The vibes from
everyone I met were positive and the energy
progressive. I will definitely visit again in
2021 with more time to visit other halls
as well,” she averred.
• Digital Textile
Micro-Factory
Assyst (CAD/Design),
Mitwill (Material),
Caddon, ErgoSoft,
Mimaki, Zünd, Juki, Veit
(Finishing), Vuframe
(AR/VR), HS Albstadt
(3D) Schoeller Textil AG
(Material)
• Smart Textiles
Micro-Factory
ITA, Gerber Technology
(Cutting), Korea Institute
of Industrial Technology
(KITECH), VETRON
TYPICAL, Wear it
(Product Design) and
ZSK (Embroidery)
• World of Digital
Fashion
Browzwear Solutions
(Visualisation), Software
Dr. K. Friedrich (CAD),
Fision, Bullmer, Gertsch
Consulting and Mode
Vision
• Modern Innovative
Seat Design
KSL, RING, VEIT and
ZSK
• Pixel to Product
Gemini CAD Systems
Thomas Brinkhoff (L), Director of Marketing, DA Group with Dietrich Eickhoff,
Managing Director/CEO, DA Group
Jochen Cramer (L), General Sales Manager, Bullmer with M A Saleque, Managing Director,
Uni Asia, also Bullmer’s dealer in Bangladesh
PARTNERS IN
VARIOUS MICRO-
FACTORIES
PRESENTED DURING
TEXPROCESS 2019
EVENT REVIEW

TECH MANAGEMENT
SAM are neither defined nor mentioned.
In American published books, SAM is
mentioned, while in European published
books, SMV is mentioned. Similarly, factories
in Asia which are under the influence of
European consultants use the term SMV,
while factories in South America which are
under the influence of American consultants
use the term SAM.
SMV or SAM is commonly calculated as:
Observed Time (Time Study) + Rating
Allowance + PF&D (Personal Fatigue and
Delay) Allowances; or
Synthetic Time (PTMS) + PF&D
(Personal Fatigue and Delay) Allowances.
SMV or SAM, both are same
RIGHT
Standard Minute Value (SMV) or Standard
Allowed Minute (SAM) is arguably the single
most controversial topic today amongst
garment production executives across the
world. Mostly both these terms are used
alternatively as many people, including the
experts, don’t know if there is any difference.
There are three schools of thoughts in this
regard: first, both are same; second, SAM
is an extension of SMV; and third, SAM and
SMV are completely different measures.
In all work study books, there is only a
reference to Standard Time. SMV and
When SAM is used as an extension to
SMV, i.e. it is the allocated time for a task
rather than the measured time – it is SMV
plus policy allowances, if any. It is worth
mentioning here that these calculations are
from experienced experts and consultants
and not from any textbook.
While in other schools of thoughts, units
for both are in minutes, the third school
of thought (but not really used in garment
industry), talks about completely different
things. Standard Allowed Minute means
time (in minutes) that is assigned to a
specific operation after doing Time Study or
using PMTS (Predetermined Motion Time
Systems). While Standard Minute Value
means the Cost Factor (in cost/minute) that
is multiplied with SAM to get the cost of the
operation. For example:
Operation name: Bottom hemming
SAM: 1.3 minutes
SMV: 0.50 INR/minute
Cost/bottom hemming operation: 0.65 INR
Utilisation, Line Efficiency and Balance
Efficiency are always same
WRONG
All three terminologies are again used
interchangeably across organisations. All
measure as to how efficiently/effectively time
is utilised by operators in the line.
While utilisation is percentage of attended
time that the operator spends ‘on standard’,
line efficiency is the calculation of ‘standard
minutes earned’ / ‘time attended’. Although
it can be calculated for individual operators,
it is most useful as a measure of sections or
lines. In reality, factories generally calculate
line efficiency but often use the term
‘utilisation’. In micro measure, there is a fine
line of difference between utilisation and
efficiency. In first case, simply how much
time is utilised productively is calculated;
while in second case, how efficiently the
available time is utilised is taken into
account. Let’s explain with an example:
One operator attends work 480 minutes in a
day and spends 440 minutes on a standard
(40 minutes lost due to machine breakdown
and no cut components); completes pocket
attaching of 500 pieces, and SMV for pocket
attach operation is 0.80 minutes.
Operator utilisation is 440/480 expressed in
percentage, i.e. 91.67% (how productively the
operator’s time is utilised).
SMV earned by operator is 500 pieces x 0.80
minutes/piece = 400 minutes. So, operator
efficiency will be 400/480 expressed in
percentage, i.e. 83.33% (how efficiently the
operator’s time is used).
Time is the single most important commodity in garment
production; thus correct measure of time is very
important. There are different measures of time in garment
manufacturing: Standard Allowed Time, Utilisation of
Time, Pitch Time and Throughput Time. These are some
of the most commonly used terminologies amongst
garment production executives across the world. However,
there are many other similar terminologies, often used
interchangeably, but may have different meanings altogether.
As long as we are using macro-measures to evaluate our
performance, probably many such measures will not make
too much difference. But nowadays companies are using
professional micro-measures to measure time. Properly
defining and fine tuning these measures to what we want
and using correct terminology is of paramount importance.
Understanding time’s
measures to achieve
better production
Myth Buster

TECH MANAGEMENT
Balance inefficiency (used commonly
in Japanese literature) calculation is
similar to efficiency calculation above,
but generally calculated for a line from a
different perspective. Basically how much
time is proportionately lost due to imperfect
balance, as the primary reason behind time
loss is attributed to poor balancing. Suppose
in a sewing line of 20 operators, a style of
20 SMV is produced in 8-hour shift. If the
average daily production of the style is 400
pcs/shift, then
Minutes produced = SMV x pcs/shift
= 20 x 400 = 8000
Minutes attended = Number of operators
x Number of minutes per shift
= 20 x 480 = 9600
Out of 9,600 minutes available, only 8,000
minutes of worth is produced, rest minutes
are lost due to line imbalance. Thus, balance
efficiency is 8000/9600, i.e. 83.33%.
If 83.33% is balance efficiency,
then balance inefficiency is
100-83.33 = 16.67%.
Takt Time or Pitch Time are same
RIGHT
Takt Time comes from a German word ‘takt’
meaning rhythm or beat. Takt Time sets
the ‘beat’ of the organisation in sync with
customer demand. Takt Time is a simple
concept, yet counter-intuitive, and is often
confused with Cycle Time or machine speed.
Takt Time is the pace of production needed
to meet customer’s demand or production
target. The formula for Takt Time is:
Time available for production (Number of
operators x Time contracted)
Target or Required number of pieces
For example:
Net available time to work = 1 shift x
8 hrs. x 60 min. x 20 operators = 9600
minutes
Customer demand (production target)
= 2400 pieces
Takt Time = (9600 minutes)/2400 =
4 minutes/piece
This means a unit needs to be completed
every 4 minutes. Therefore, every step or
operation in assembly needs to be done/
delivered every 4 minutes (or multiples of it).
Pitch Time is the theoretical operation time;
each operator should take for a planned
balanced line. It is calculated as:
(SAM value of a garment)
(No. of operators required to meet the target)
Suppose the work content (SAM value)
of a garment is 40 minutes and there are
10 operators available to meet the target,
it means while working in assembly line,
each operation should take 4 minutes to
have a balanced line. Clubbing and Splitting
of operations are done to match each
operation’s timings with Pitch Time. Lesser
the deviation of operation timings from Pitch
Time, better the balancing efficiency that
can be achieved.
Both Takt Time and Pitch Time can never be
measured using a stopwatch.
Throughput Time and Flow Time
are not same
RIGHT
Throughput Time is the time required from
one cut component fed till the final garment
comes out at the end of sewing line. It is the
total elapsed time between the point at which
cut component enters the sewing line to the
point at which the complete garment exits.
Throughput Time is the total work content
of the style (in critical path) plus the total
waiting time.
It is calculated as:
Throughput Time = (Work content of the
style in critical path) x (1 + WIP)
In other words, Throughput Time is defined
as the rate at which the production happens.
While the elapsed time between the point
at which cut component enters the sewing
line to the point at which the complete
garment exits, is termed as Material Flow
Time or Flow Time. If Throughput Time is
represented by T and Flow Time by F, then
inventory (I) can be calculated by I = T x F
For example, if the Flow Time (F) for a
garment assembly process is 10 hours and
rate of production (throughput) is 60 pieces
per hour, then inventory in the line is 600
garments equivalent, of cut components and
partially sewn components.
Time Study and Capacity Study are not same
RIGHT
Although Time Study is commonly used in
the industry, complete exercise is ‘Motion
and Time Study’, where Time Study is to
establish Target Time (that is achievable).
Motion Study explores possibility of
improving it through methods improvement.
In many of the cases in organisations, Time
Study is conducted but the aim is not to
establish the target but to only assess the
capacity of existing workforce.
While Time Study is cumbersome and
time consuming, capacity study can be
done quickly and easily where element
breakdown of operations is not necessary.
Simply Cycle Time taken for complete
sewing operation (from pick-up to dispose
of) can be calculated to assess how many
pieces can be made by existing workforce
with existing methods and infrastructure.
The time lost and hidden potential for
improvement are never identified in
capacity study.
Cycle Time is more important
than standard time as it gives an
accurate indication of what can be
achieved. For balancing purposes, it is
much better to use achieved cycle times
than standard times.
Takt Time is a simple concept, yet counter-intuitive, and
often confused with Cycle Time or machine speed. Takt Time
is the pace of production needed to meet customer’s demand
or production target.
Although Time Study is commonly used in the industry,
complete exercise is ‘Motion and Time Study’, where Time
Study is to establish Target Time (that is achievable).
Motion Study explores possibility of improving it through
methods improvement.

S/S’20 comes up with a continuing appreciation
for craft and a new sense of minimalism
that is arising through local design, one that actually
speaks about a purpose. Sustainability is taking on
new forms with plant-based fabrics, and an increase in
farm-to-table ingredients found in beauty and health.
Younger people are identifying with non-traditional
gender labels and our insecurities and imperfections
are now seen as beautiful examples of uniqueness.
Visions of a virtual world become more ingrained
in our daily life and the futuristic advancements
challenge our subconscious capacities, hence giving
this season the identifying name of ‘Futuristic’.
Advancements in technology give us a clearer insight
into the beginning of time, as we continue to reveal
hidden secrets and treasures of the world. Designers
like Axel Vervoordt reflect the elemental aesthetic
of the trend as we merge ancient antiquities and
modern minimalism.
Embracing the past, it can be seen that the pulsating
excitement of the 1980s influences a modern-day look
that’s all about amplified colour, sensual movement
and fluid culture. A slew of today’s designers show how
the toughness of the streets can inspire a surprising
level of softness and femininity.
Pulling references from the ancient elements and
modern biotechnology, the most innovative of
materials balance both the past and the present, also
keeping sustainability as the end result. As a result,
we see that raw fibres, plant-based dyes, brushed and
naped earthy knits take precedence.
Vintage fabrications are enhanced by simplified and
innovative processes, where suiting takes a more plush
approach. While cotton takes a more crisp approach,
meshes take a more dynamic approach.
This vision of S/S ’20 is not only easy to reach but is also
beautifully rooted in reality. The strong contrasts of the
decade mean luxury and grit co-exist in a place that is
as exciting as it is edgy.
Spring/Summer 2020
Fashion snoops unveils
s/s’20 trends for women

Babylon takes its name from ancient Babylonia, a state and
cultural area which encompasses the modern day Middle
East. The Babylon woman is an archaeologist well-versed
in the history of the region. She's drawn to sites along the
Nile and gets a thrill out of unearthing primitive artefacts
and discovering early warriors. An explorer at heart, she's
empowered to unveil stories that go beneath the surface
of material goods and reveal the livelihood that shaped
foregone times.
Her wardrobe is composed of exotic elements like intricate
pattern motifs, practical utility details and polished draped
silhouettes. Ever the storyteller, the Babylon woman
embodies a lifestyle that preserves the past and makes it
relevant for the future.
Materials – colour faded linen, wrinkled chiffon, cotton
openwork, gauze knit, woven raffia, softened canvas, printed
stretch jersey
Design details – drapes, utility pockets, fringes, cutouts,
embroidery, patchwork, tiered ruffles, relaxed fit silhouettes
Must-haves – sweater dresses, sarong style wrap skirts, camp shirts, baggy pants
PATTERN + GRAPHICS
Antique dyes, woven market, marbleised camo, flax lines,
tamed animal, bright damasks, primitive blocking
A rediscovery of traditional patterns and graphics takes on
a global expedition as environmental influences provide an
organic direction while the handcrafted compositions look
toward an artisanal aspiration for an exploration of Babylon
in S/S ’20.
Traditional stripes re-emerge amongst the woven techniques
for a loom constructed sensibility as more crafted qualities
take hold of the scarf prints for a feminine focus with a
sensual appeal.
For a minimal pattern option, sub-theme Primitive
Blockings showcases fresh modernity as the intricate
markings sit beside oversized abstractions for a diversity
within this season's colour block compositions for
encompassing impact.
Florals find a new outlook throughout the bohemian tufts
and block printed directionals of Bright Damasks as the
hue make for a bold and playful pattern choice while the
animal prints take a more muted route in Babylon, with the
skins utilising a toned down approach to reflect the relaxed
expedition this season.

Must haves – bra tops, bike shorts, windbreakers, track pants, slip dresses, straight leg jeans, wide leg jeans
PATTERN + GRAPHICS
Electric slither, ombre flow, dark wave, cognitive gradient,
disrupted motion
A trip into the electrified collection of Circuit showcases a
fresh perspective of hallucinatory patterns and introspective
colours for an array of printed illusionary designs for S/S ’20.
More energy infused lines come forward with echoing details
and blurs of colour for an exploration of fluorescent ombre
prints, where flickering saturations receive a jolt of electricity
for excitement.
Sub-theme Neon also finds importance amongst the wild
jungle of animal prints for a playful take on a traditional
pattern in Fierce. The tropicalia of the island looks toward
the dizzying palm trees with a wavering stance as the Dark
Waves find influence in the trailed graphics of the leaves for a
mesmeric approach.
Playful tie-dyes get a psychedelic sense with a bright
palette and a kaleidoscopic swirl of experimental technique
for impact while a softer approach comes through within
the whisper of hue tinged designs for a reflection of self-
awareness and heightened consciousness through pattern
and graphic compositions.
gallery setting allows viewers to escape everyday life and
immerse themselves in different worlds from lush tropics to
calming meditative environments.
Materials – iridescent stretch knits, tie-dye denim, silken
nylon, digitally printed silk, neon blocked knit, ultra-light
chiffon, tension rib knit
Design details – cut-outs, zippers, drawstrings, knottings,
contrast stitches
Circuit speaks about the quest for innovation and
technology that enlivens our senses.
At the helm of a leading virtual reality company, the Circuit
woman seeks out galleries instead of gamers to bring her
visions to life. Signature experiences combine vibrant colour,
sound and light.
Sporty undertones add energy and inspire futuristic
elements like holograms, while nature is another angle
transformed through a hyper-realistic lens. The artistic

Must haves – baggy pants, sweaters, dresses, camp shirts, culottes, jumpsuits, paperbag jeans, pleated skirt, shirt dresses
PATTERN + GRAPHICS
Sunset scapes, blanket stripes, in check, tonal stripes,
floral smudges, soft ginghams, relaxed abstracts, basket
weaves
The gentle collective of Lagom invites S/S ’20 towards prints
that convey a relaxed composure with arrangements that
derive from modest craftsmanship and tranquil sensibilities.
Soft palettes offer a view of ease within the patterns and
playful lines. Peaches, oranges and other ripe delectables
are key graphic options as Lagom explores the sun soaked
environment, while florals take on a smudged exterior with
blurred details for a refined laziness within the blooms.
Even traditional Gingham Patterns find a new calmness
in structure as the boxed print utilises a soft presence for a
more laid-back style.
Painterly aspects take hold in sunset compositions for
an artistic ombre formation as more relaxed designs
offer abstract elements with a focus on simple lines, hue
direction and textural details for interest. Handcrafted
inspirations bring forward a new plaid print, with basket
woven influences creating textile-based designs with
interlocking forms and gentle grids for a fresh look. Minimal
lines also receive a warm weather update, as the modest
and tonal focused stripes make for a casual pattern of a mild,
easygoing assemblage this season.
lives further afield in a remote woodland cottage, surrounded
by unspoiled nature. Her cultivated aesthetic reflects modern
craft, sustainability and raw earth elements.
Materials – linen blended canvas, crafted intarsia, macramé,
softened leather, puckered jersey, silk crepe De Chine
Design details – mixed media, knottings, fringes, belted
waists, pleating, wrap styling, darts
Lagom is a Swedish term for ‘just the right amount’.
We extend Lagom to capture a lifestyle inspired by
Scandinavian design that is both minimal and functional
with a dash of folk mixed in.
By trade, the Lagom woman is an interior designer working
in an urban environment amongst respected creatives. While
she is very much tapped into the urban design world, she

Must haves – mini skirts, power blazers, puff sleeve blouses, high waist pants, pencil skirts, bright suits, oversized jackets, skinny jeans
PATTERN + GRAPHICS
Explosive colour, logomania, soft galactic, gritty art,
spraycan dyes
An underground glam takes focus within Scene as the
grit mixes with the glossy for a social and texture clash of
excitement in S/S ’20.
Bright colours, airbrushed effects, space age graphics and
retro patterns make for a collection of statement designs
that take a nod from the past and utilise a futuristic spin
for a youthful appeal. Branding makes a powerful impact
as Logomania finds the designers’ namesake as an all-
encompassing pattern for effect while graffiti aspects
focus on the more rebellious side amongst the Gritty Art
compositions.
Ombres look toward the street influences too, as the
Spraycan Dyes sub-theme emphasises on the overlapped
fuzziness and rough textures. Space aspirations offer a candy
coloured surrealism of dreamy planet centered graphics for a
fantastical view.
Traditional checks re-emerge with a futuristic Glow Grid with
laser lights creating a modern perspective as the markings
form a playful energy in Spontaneous Squiggle for a range of
patterns designs with a multi-dimensional appeal.
night, she takes more risks with strong tailored shoulders
or volume, and even a bit of gritty street inspiration from
denim to graffitti prints. From her power office to the
pulsating club, the Scene woman is always in the limelight.
Materials – extreme bleached denim, washable silk
charmeuse, metallic lame, burnout velvet, lightweight poly
suiting, pastel denim, lurex stretch knit
Design details – shoulder action, statement sleeves, sequins,
statement sleeves, shoulders, feather trim
Scene is about the woman who's part of the scene and also
prone to cause a scene herself.
Living a fast-paced life in the city, she takes her cues from the
’80s age of excess. As a publicist, she's in with the in-crowd
and no stranger to Page Six.
But this isn't just a throwback look.
The Scene woman finds a way to make otherwise flashy
elements modern. Vibrant colours, shiny surfaces and
metallics are wardrobe signatures, and she has a futuristic
way of pulling it all together that works for daytime. At

A
s retailers and brands struggle to
retail relevance in a crowded market,
strategy to attract a large audience
has become a key. What a better way to do
this than increasing product portfolio not
only in its traditional segment, but also in
new areas. The industry players adopting this
trend were successful enough in sustaining
the extension as it allowed them to create a
new image in the consumer psyche using the
reach of existing brand image.
HOLISTIC OFFERING
IS THE KEY
Diversification is done at different levels,
as brands first trudged safer boundaries
through basic line extensions with extended-
size collections or capsules, then went on
to expand their product levels with added
swimwear, kidswear or athleisure ranges
and finally forayed into adjacent industries
such as homeware and beauty. Plus-size
collections, disguised as a step towards
inclusive fashion, were deemed as successful
line extensions for Nike, Adidas, Macy’s and
Target. Similarly, departmental all-solution
stores such as Primark started retailing
licensed products for popular character-
inspired clothing, giving media an outlet to
promote their entertainment ventures as and
when they launched.
RETAILERS AND
BRANDS TRANSITION
FROM CLOTHING TO
LIFESTYLE SOLUTIONS
WORLD WRAP
The Jacquard Project – Google’s newly launched apparel in collaboration with Levi’s
B R A N D
E X T E N S I O N
The lifestyle of the consumer is now diversifying from the
usual ‘Get up, Earn bread, Eat, Repeat’ cycle as healthcare,
environmental consciousness, travel and developmental
activities are now a huge part of the timetables. The only
thing on the low is time, and time is money. This has driven
several brands and retailers to tap into the potential of
lifestyle, one-stop solution outlets that provide more than
just fashion apparel, with offerings such as beauty and
accessories, footwear and the rapidly rising homeware
market.
A Zara Home store

Brand Extension
is a trend on the
rise since late ’90s,
which started off as
a marketing stint as
the cost of marketing
gets divided over
a multitude of
products.
As per recent
studies by
statista.com,
the Furniture
and Homeware
segment
amounts to
US $ 2,25,259
million in 2019.
A parent brand can create several extensions
of its offerings to cater to the masses,
providing the shoppers a single destination
to fulfil all their demands – whether niche or
basic. Ralph Lauren is one of the biggest and
most successful instances as they harnessed
the brand reputation to extend into Polo
Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Purple Label,
and more, to cater to multiple consumer
segments. High fashion retailer Armani is yet
another brand to provide a lifestyle solution
as it operates through Giorgio Armani
Privé, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani
(including EA7), Armani Junior and Armani
Exchange, after announcing the closing of
Armani Collezioni and Armani Jeans. It later
on explored hospitality with the launch of
Armani hotels that offer detailed Armani
branded experiences right down to the last
throw pillows and night lamps.
Footwear also became a go-to for many
retailers as denimwear brand Paige expanded
its merchandise to foray into the footwear
field in September 2018 with a 19-piece
collection and Indian menswear retailer Mufti
launched its footwear range after introducing
athleisure last season. Meanwhile, fast-
fashion giant Zara also stretched its horizons
to the beauty sector in November 2018.
HOMEWARE – THE RIPE AVENUE
The popularity of homeware is entailing a line
of retailers and brands which are exploring
opportunity in cross-market boundaries.
What started as a trend in the luxury
segment, trickled down to provide mass
brands a segment that slowly popularised
their existing market position. Gucci, Armani,
Loewe and La DoubleJ started with their own
On the masses front, fast-fashion and
discount retailers are not far behind in
the race to have a successful homeware
range with the introduction of Zara Home
by Inditex in 2003, to the recent venture of
Swedish brand H&M, H&M Home, launched
in 2009. Small kidswear brands such as
Rachel Riley and Noe & Zoe spread their
categories to offer homeware ranges to help
parents transform their kids’ wardrobes as
well as living space. Multi-brand retailers
and large format stores are also delving
into the segment as Walmart launched a
series of virtual showrooms online, while
ASOS recruited designers to create textiles,
ceramics and hard goods for its first own
brand homeware collection that was launched
earlier this month.
A COLLABORATIVE EFFORT
Several brands have also started
collaborating with players in the field
they are interested in to inculcate the
existing brand image of the collaborator;
use their expertise while adding their
technical advancement to the mix. Levi’s
collaborated with tech stalwart Google
to unveil a high tech jacket that provides
the wearer the convenience of controlling
smartphone features with basic arm
movements with recent edition, Project
Jacquard featuring ride-sharing support via
Uber and Lyft.
All in all, the idea of providing a one-stop
store solution is popularising as every brand
wants a stake in the rapidly diversifying
market, exploiting new trends in the
arena with the added advantage of being
distinguished from the existing competition.
lines that sold like hot cakes. The existence
of Gucci ceramics and Loewe chairs provide
the same brand factor to the consumer on
an extended level as a luxury wallpaper will
be utilised longer than a skirt. Affordable
furniture giant Ikea collaborated with
celebrated designer Virgil Abloh for a limited
edition furnishing line that was sold out
within days of its launch.

TRADE STATISTICS
Percentage change in top 3 product
categories imported by USA
UVR change in apparel imported by
USA (3-year comparison)
Forecast: The US apparel market is
expected to grow annually by 1.9%
(CAGR) in 2019-2023 period.
Month-wise USA apparel import trend Value-wise share to USA by top 5
apparel exporters
Percentage change in Vietnam’s top
product category export (T-Shirts)
to USA
Chinese shipments to USA grow, but at slower pace;
other Asian countries take benefit
There were chances that USA will levy import taxes from January onwards that could make apparel shipments expensive. This possible tax
regime coupled with Chinese New Year holidays made buyers shift their base from China which benefited India, Bangladesh and Vietnam
as indicated by the figures, and kept China’s growth restricted. Another aspect that emerged after analysing the data is India’s rise as
compared to Indonesia. It’s worth mentioning here that India currently holds 5th rank in apparel exporting destinations tally to USA, while
Indonesia stands at 4th spot with US $ 800 million export value. The gap between the export values of these countries was US $ 108 million in
Jan.-Feb. ’18 period which compressed to just US $ 46 million in the same period of 2019. It is expected that India will surpass Indonesia in
another 4 to 5 months and dethrone it to grab 4th spot in tally.
T-SHIRTS
Volume
(1.28%)
Value
(2.62%)
31.87%
16.17%
7.30%
5.62%
5.30%
Volume
(3.71%)
Value
(9.35%)
Volume
(0.87%)
Value
(-13.30%)
Jan.-Feb. 2017
US $ 2.91
China Vietnam Bangladesh Indonesia India
7.48%
Jan.-Feb. 2019
US $ 2.92
Jan.-Feb. 2018
US $ 2.89
Value rises
Volume rises
LEGWEAR TROUSERS
2.62%
Global Apparel Imports by the US:
January to February 2019
[The information has been extracted
from US custom site and further analysed.]
[Value in US billion $]
Cotton
MMF
4.32%
5.64%
Wool
Silk & Veg
1.46%
20.49%
Change in Value
1.03%
Change in UVR
(Average UVR in the review period
was US $ 2.92 as against US $ 2.89 in
the same period last year)
4.22%
Change in Quantity
5.12%
Change in Value
J a n u a r y t o F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 9
1% 8.19%
29.29%
Change in Quantity
Cotton
MMF
6.19%
Wool
Silk & Veg
7.57
6.65
Jan. '19 Feb. '19
1.9% (CAGR)
2019-2023

TRADE STATISTICS
Total apparel exports to the US by 7 major manufacturing destinations:
Jan.-Feb. 2019 (Qty in mn SME & Value in US mn $)
Countries
Jan.-Feb. 2018 Jan.-Feb. 2019 % Change
Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value
India 196.41 694.75 209.90 753.85 6.87 8.51
Bangladesh 355.01 935.97 375.98 1038.56 5.91 10.96
China 1918.35 4395.57 2012.57 4532.57 4.91 3.12
Pakistan 88.84 221.70 93.31 238.02 5.03 7.36
Sri Lanka 72.48 322.84 76.81 342.58 5.97 6.11
Vietnam 663.36 2066.71 736.38 2299.63 11.01 11.27
Indonesia 221.85 802.81 218.66 800.30 -1.44 -0.31
Type of Apparel
Jan.-Feb. 2018 Jan.-Feb. 2019 % Change
Cotton 2009.26 6598.82 2029.38 6883.97 1.00 4.32
Wool 17.59 320.55 16.15 315.88 -8.19 -1.46
MMF 2588.03 6339.73 2748.35 6697.16 6.19 5.64
Silk & Veg 63.39 266.82 81.96 321.51 29.29 20.49
Total 4678.27 13525.92 4875.83 14218.52 4.22 5.12
Total global apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Feb. 2019
(Qty in mn SME & Value in US mn $)
Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Feb. 2019 (Qty in doz, legwear in dpr, babieswear in kg)
Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Feb. 2019 (Value in US mn $)
APPAREL TYPE
Total Imports by USA
Exports to USA
China India Bangladesh Vietnam Indonesia
2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change
Babieswear 20,903,346 19,860,508 -4.99 10,049,415 9,051,647 -9.93 1,637,993 2,030,968 23.99 1,875,042 1,922,528 2.53 1,781,886 2,045,588 14.80 759,570 480,135 -36.79
Foundation
Garments
10,353,756 11,300,693 9.15 5,847,253 6,325,314 8.18 218,334 250,320 14.65 819,591 1,026,867 25.29 840,764 832,343 -1.00 718,373 899,816 25.26
Jackets & Blazers 5,397,141 6,230,041 15.43 2,692,215 2,876,762 6.85 83,959 96,338 14.74 332,414 462,992 39.28 1,051,486 1,370,755 30.36 262,529 288,197 9.78
Ladies Blouses 10,741,793 10,231,952 -4.75 4,568,088 4,199,503 -8.07 1,389,579 1,484,989 6.87 362,926 395,027 8.85 1,924,625 1,897,513 -1.41 1,401,008 1,297,079 -7.42
Ladies Dresses 12,448,211 12,186,890 -2.10 5,703,115 5,866,713 2.87 982,745 974,436 -0.85 326,619 259,383 -20.59 2,633,758 2,547,321 -3.28 854,836 869,909 1.76
Ladies Skirts 2,863,671 2,946,864 2.91 1,321,721 1,326,973 0.40 114,785 140,281 22.21 191,806 198,146 3.31 636,610 607,386 -4.59 188,110 162,462 -13.63
Legwear 62,721,516 65,048,411 3.71 43,356,910 47,712,732 10.05 1,457,469 1,044,143 -28.36 0 0 0 799,314 1,155,483 44.56 124,483 81,139 -34.82
Men's Shirts 7,298,686 7,247,857 -0.70 1,471,705 1,370,013 -6.91 681,570 603,444 -11.46 1,982,278 2,211,611 11.57 973,806 904,869 -7.08 572,712 593,364 3.61
Nightwear 8,768,599 8,806,420 0.43 5,215,509 5,488,944 5.24 431,768 475,823 10.20 474,772 414,837 -12.62 906,807 952,953 5.09 124,759 131,562 5.45
Suits / Ensembles 2,200,520 2,367,515 7.59 1,087,201 1,288,044 18.47 104,257 124,836 19.74 15,502 24,695 59.30 425,623 428,401 0.65 140,213 106,405 -24.11
Sweaters 1,037,027 1,431,059 38.00 777,179 1,088,600 40.07 6,280 7,994 27.29 45,761 87,936 92.16 22,303 52,935 137.34 7,281 5,064 -30.45
Trousers 56,766,748 57,263,251 0.87 17,344,448 17,078,898 -1.53 1,087,564 1,230,583 13.15 9,502,888 9,419,877 -0.87 9,219,499 10,319,730 11.93 3,776,875 3,387,292 -10.31
T-Shirts 95,760,599 96,981,855 1.28 17,633,260 17,873,075 1.36 4,631,606 4,865,754 5.06 4,164,718 4,200,514 0.86 14,546,976 14,927,662 2.62 4,905,856 4,603,325 -6.17
Undergarments 40,741,133 43,315,883 6.32 9,735,415 10,113,453 3.88 2,828,738 3,142,781 11.10 4,457,696 4,663,777 4.62 7,087,371 8,580,528 21.07 396,857 406,657 2.47
APPAREL TYPE
Total Imports by USA
Exports to USA
China India Bangladesh Vietnam Indonesia
2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change 2018 2019 % Change
Babieswear 429.24 422.76 -1.51 190.22 171.80 -9.68 37.76 48.64 28.81 35.02 38.52 10.00 37.82 46.58 23.16 22.52 15.15 -32.71
Foundation
Garments
428.77 458.86 7.02 173.67 201.81 16.20 15.80 16.25 2.84 16.57 24.24 46.29 56.79 53.52 -5.77 32.98 36.41 10.41
Jackets & Blazers 798.67 913.29 14.35 331.35 350.25 5.70 13.08 13.67 4.50 39.83 51.47 29.22 175.95 215.81 22.65 41.36 46.48 12.38
Ladies Blouses 704.17 674.97 -4.15 266.09 250.53 -5.85 109.66 114.18 4.12 19.94 24.32 21.97 100.14 97.79 -2.35 96.57 93.10 -3.60
Ladies Dresses 995.10 972.78 -2.24 435.59 427.50 -1.86 89.44 92.71 3.66 12.60 8.98 -28.72 170.79 172.69 1.11 70.24 72.51 3.23
Ladies Skirts 163.67 174.80 6.80 67.57 69.02 2.14 8.40 10.23 21.84 7.28 8.98 23.25 33.10 32.60 -1.51 10.66 9.13 -14.38
Legwear 308.35 337.17 9.35 188.23 223.76 18.88 4.15 4.58 10.31 0 0 0 3.26 4.96 52.41 0.52 0.40 -23.11
Men's Shirts 574.45 585.73 1.96 127.35 110.52 -13.22 46.45 43.25 -6.89 104.76 121.34 15.83 75.92 75.35 -0.76 48.19 51.97 7.84
Nightwear 333.27 361.88 8.59 192.40 206.11 7.13 16.07 21.20 31.94 11.94 13.25 10.92 36.06 41.52 15.14 6.26 8.49 35.69
Suits / Ensembles 226.47 236.74 4.54 56.80 63.08 11.05 16.15 15.45 -4.30 2.28 1.93 -15.53 36.65 38.54 5.16 16.60 15.91 -4.14
Sweaters 115.78 133.71 15.49 78.19 91.55 17.09 0.57 0.61 6.79 2.68 5.50 104.84 1.94 2.70 38.68 0.59 0.58 -2.71
Trousers 3,306.69 2,866.94 -13.30 830.81 698.54 -15.92 76.01 77.78 2.33 477.59 501.75 5.06 551.25 453.98 -17.64 197.86 143.91 -27.27
T-Shirts 3,436.78 3,526.79 2.62 725.44 698.26 -3.75 181.286 192.845 6.38 106.81 114.33 7.04 567.47 609.93 7.48 198.16 190.57 -3.83
Undergarments 588.78 644.49 9.46 145.62 170.55 17.12 51.82 53.92 4.06 46.83 50.29 7.39 92.68 106.96 15.40 7.44 9.96 33.88

1.84% 7.31%
7.51%
0.03% 7.74%
Percentage change in top 3 product
categories imported by EU
UVR change in apparel imported
by EU
Month-wise EU apparel import trend Value-wise share to EU by top
exporters
Percentage change in Vietnam’s top
product category (Trousers) to EU
Fact: Average spending per
capita per annum on apparels
in Greece is € 300
TRADE STATISTICS
T-SHIRTS
Volume
(3.76%)
Value
(8.04%)
28.69%
3.98%
21.61%
11.74%
6.65%
Volume
(-6.08%)
Value
(1.69%)
Volume
(-0.37%)
Value
(8.46%)
Jan. – Mar. 2017
€ 17.17
China Vietnam Bangladesh Turkey India
India
Jan. – Mar. 2019
€ 18.46
(Value in € billion)
Jan. – Mar. 2018
€ 17.03
Value rises
Volume falls
SWEATERS TROUSERS 6.59%
Global apparel imports by the
European Union: January to
March 2019
0.84%
[The information has been extracted
from EU custom site and further analysed.]
Change in Woven Segment
Change in Knitted Segment
Quantity
Quantity
Value
Value
8.39%
Change in UVR
Average UVR in the review period
was Euro 18.46 per kg of fabric
equivalent as against Euro 17.03 in
the same period last year
Change in Quantity
Change in Value
5.94%
EU apparel import goes down in volume terms
European Union fell in its volume-wise apparel import in the first-quarter of 2019. The suppressed quantities were a result of
high unit prices that restricted the buyers from placing more orders in countries like China, India, Vietnam and Cambodia.
However, Bangladesh was exception during the review period and the country marked growth both in values and volumes
despite the rise in unit prices. On the other hand Turkey, one of the leading exporters of apparel to EU, was the only country
in top 5 destinations tally which saw NO rise in the unit prices. The fall in orders can be attributed to factors like low consumer
spending in Europe; stagnant market growth; and global economic slowdown due to instable political scenario.
J a n u a r y t o M a r c h 2 0 1 9
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
Jan-19
Feb-19
Mar-19
8.21
6.90
7.01

Apparel imports of the EU: Selected Countries (Qty in mn Kg & Value in mn Euro)
Country/
Category
Jan-Mar. 2018 Jan.-Mar. 2019 % change
WORLD
Knitted 648.44 9745.76 648.65 10500.28 0.03 7.74
Woven 559.76 10827.78 549.45 11618.83 -1.84 7.31
Total 1208.20 20573.54 1198.10 22119.10 -0.84 7.51
CHINA
Knitted 196.66 2796.51 176.63 2819.68 -10.19 0.83
Woven 199.27 3486.15 180.15 3527.32 -9.60 1.18
Total 395.94 6282.66 356.78 6347.01 -9.89 1.02
INDIA
Knitted 43.01 703.58 42.32 719.06 -1.61 2.20
Woven 29.27 748.88 28.12 753.50 -3.90 0.62
Total 72.28 1452.47 70.44 1472.57 -2.54 1.38
BANGLADESH
Knitted 190.74 2209.97 204.82 2609.97 7.38 18.10
Woven 128.52 1874.72 135.69 2170.71 5.58 15.79
Total 319.26 4084.69 340.51 4780.68 6.66 17.04
SRI LANKA
Knitted 11.11 223.38 11.40 245.58 2.63 9.94
Woven 6.92 165.15 7.11 187.71 2.78 13.66
Total 18.03 388.53 18.52 433.29 2.68 11.52
PAKISTAN
Knitted 29.60 300.04 31.20 339.89 5.38 13.28
Woven 30.28 401.65 33.38 450.91 10.22 12.27
Total 59.89 701.69 64.57 790.81 7.83 12.70
VIETNAM
Knitted 12.35 253.86 13.18 305.94 6.79 20.51
Woven 31.86 539.67 21.86 574.82 -31.40 6.51
Total 44.21 793.53 35.04 880.76 -20.74 10.99
TURKEY
Knitted 67.88 1387.18 70.92 1454.81 4.47 4.88
Woven 37.98 1068.51 40.98 1142.69 7.92 6.94
Total 105.86 2455.69 111.90 2597.50 5.71 5.77
Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Mar. 2019 (Qty in mn Kg)
Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Mar. 2019 (Value in mn Euro)
APPAREL TYPE
Total Imports by EU
Exports to EU
China India Bangladesh Vietnam
2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change
Babieswear 30.53 30.29 -0.79 9.49 8.41 -11.42 5.12 5.52 7.81 9.10 9.29 2.04 0.30 0.27 -9.13
Foundation
Garments
14.78 15.08 2.01 8.53 7.96 -6.66 0.09 0.10 6.88 1.86 2.10 12.69 0.71 0.78 9.60
Jackets & Blazers 6.82 6.45 -5.48 3.56 2.84 -20.09 0.14 0.08 -39.04 0.66 0.82 23.02 0.20 0.18 -9.85
Ladies Blouses 33.93 30.43 -10.30 9.57 7.99 -16.49 7.00 5.54 -20.94 5.44 5.33 -2.03 1.40 1.25 -10.45
Ladies Dresses 52.63 56.69 7.72 20.10 18.96 -5.69 6.94 7.80 12.34 7.22 8.42 16.66 1.18 1.21 2.65
Ladies Skirts 12.51 16.13 28.98 4.41 5.48 24.23 1.04 1.05 0.87 2.47 3.53 42.78 0.30 0.38 27.33
Legwear 50.37 51.58 2.40 24.66 26.23 6.37 0.58 0.49 -16.26 0.31 0.18 -40.94 0.48 0.67 39.99
Men's Shirts 75.06 76.74 2.25 11.43 10.17 -10.97 6.96 6.93 -0.56 32.97 34.99 6.11 2.87 2.91 1.49
Nightwear 23.30 21.35 -8.38 6.59 5.27 -20.12 6.39 6.18 -3.32 5.21 5.55 6.63 0.36 0.29 -18.92
Suits / Ensembles 11.30 10.66 -5.71 6.26 5.73 -8.43 0.57 0.56 -1.40 0.76 0.85 13.07 0.12 0.12 0.58
Sweaters 115.54 108.51 -6.08 37.42 29.83 -20.29 3.01 3.09 2.89 33.44 32.93 -1.54 1.85 2.12 14.53
Trousers 320.53 319.35 -0.37 76.44 65.07 -14.87 10.62 10.60 -0.14 106.98 110.87 3.64 9.92 9.26 -6.59
T-Shirts 169.60 175.99 3.76 19.86 18.21 -8.32 14.91 14.27 -4.28 83.00 92.10 10.95 2.25 2.39 6.30
Undergarments 31.97 32.51 1.70 15.26 14.50 -4.98 1.85 1.75 -5.54 6.00 6.72 12.17 0.73 0.73 -0.56
APPAREL TYPE
Total Imports by EU
Exports to EU
China India Bangladesh Vietnam
2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change 2018 2019 % change
Babieswear 608.67 635.41 4.39 190.61 181.62 -4.71 112.20 124.28 10.77 156.03 171.13 9.68 6.59 6.23 -5.45
Foundation
Garments
498.22 542.36 8.86 228.77 227.59 -0.52 4.67 4.50 -3.63 56.25 69.95 24.35 33.05 41.53 25.68
Jackets & Blazers 130.22 129.82 -0.31 60.29 49.95 -17.16 2.91 2.09 -28.23 8.43 11.92 41.32 4.76 4.81 1.02
Ladies Blouses 973.76 947.62 -2.68 263.66 251.72 -4.53 208.30 177.61 -14.73 111.93 117.07 4.60 29.41 33.53 14.00
Ladies Dresses 1314.16 1529.76 16.41 497.58 548.19 10.17 188.56 214.44 13.73 98.88 133.79 35.30 24.34 29.54 21.36
Ladies Skirts 266.44 356.83 33.92 89.36 117.94 31.97 25.75 28.89 12.23 35.26 54.19 53.70 6.21 8.59 38.25
Legwear 486.77 518.14 6.45 185.73 216.35 16.48 6.31 5.67 -10.26 3.49 1.83 -47.54 4.17 5.54 32.94
Men's Shirts 1433.42 1590.01 10.92 234.07 236.85 1.19 155.88 162.54 4.28 452.39 532.22 17.65 67.88 77.11 13.61
Nightwear 261.60 273.99 4.73 63.61 64.20 0.93 68.16 70.98 4.14 55.57 66.27 19.24 2.10 2.13 1.52
Suits / Ensembles 192.68 195.76 1.60 70.77 80.72 14.06 11.90 11.09 -6.77 9.37 11.18 19.29 1.78 3.20 79.08
Sweaters 1967.15 2000.31 1.69 717.15 648.03 -9.64 54.23 56.72 4.58 431.58 471.17 9.17 36.74 46.26 25.93
Trousers 4921.37 5337.62 8.46 947.36 972.68 2.67 178.18 189.20 6.19 1340.21 1529.59 14.13 191.64 203.02 5.94
T-Shirts 2476.65 2675.75 8.04 329.00 332.78 1.15 248.51 244.72 -1.52 867.51 1056.25 21.76 43.30 55.71 28.66
Undergarments 551.67 613.49 11.21 211.91 221.92 4.72 30.52 30.99 1.56 101.30 121.30 19.74 21.02 23.99 14.13
TRADE STATISTICS

India’s dismal apparel export performance
continues; falls 2.10% to Canada in February
Continuing the trend, Chinese New Year holidays have impacted its global
apparel exports in February 2019 and Canada was not an exception.
China’s growth was hampered due to the factory closures and exports to
Canada were down by (-) 4.92 per cent in February, while India too plunged
by (-) 2.10 per cent in the review period. The shift was directly absorbed by
Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia which grew significantly by 7.84 per
cent, 16.62 per cent and 13.40 per cent, respectively.
Japan picks up its apparel import sluggishly
in first quarter of 2019
During the first 3-month period of 2019, Japan experienced slight surge
in its apparel import. It is interesting to note that despite Japan witnessing
a rise in its unit prices of apparel import, the countries such as India,
Bangladesh and Vietnam saw a decline in unit prices of their respective
export. The fall in prices somehow boosted the orders placed by Japanese
buyers in these countries. China, on the other hand, remained stagnant in
its prices but still fell down on exports, probably because of the Chinese New
Year holidays.
Canada Apparel Imports
Japan Apparel Imports
J a n u a r y t o F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 9
J a n u a r y t o M a r c h 2 0 1 9
23.84%
Knitted garment exports from Vietnam
to Canada escalated by 22.20%, while
export of woven garments was up by
25.62%.
Vietnam Exports
in Value
22.68% 9.07%
Bangladesh grew massively in both
knitted and woven segments. Overall,
the country escalated by 24.11% in
volumes and 22.68% in values.
Vietnam grew by 9.07% in values of
its exports to Japan, while volumes
increased by 14.10% on Y-o-Y basis.
B’Desh Exports
in Value
Vietnam Exports
in Value
8.85%
The knitted apparel reported 9.69%
surge during the review period,
whereas the woven segment saw
rise of 8.03% in value terms.
Canada Imports
in Value
TRADE STATISTICS

Eastman C.R.A. (Hong Kong) Ltd.
Mr. Rico Ip, (852) 2391 1533/5
rico@eastmanhk.com.hk
www.eastman-ningbo.com
Eastman Machine Company (USA)
779 Washington Street, Buffalo, NY
sales@eastmancuts.com
www.eastmancuts.com
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● Features a quick-change cutting knife and
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provide the perfect cutting edge
● Cutting up to 152.4cm / second
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● Denim
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● Composites
● And More!
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● Recipro-Cool™ Drive Assembly
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systems
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vacuum controls
EASTMANCUTS.COM
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Meet your
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Cutting Room
Supplier for
130 Years
Spreading
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Knitting is making a comeback, and SHIMA SEIKI is central to this trans
formation. In addition to offering the means to expand knitting’s share
in fashion, there is even greater prospect for nonfashion industries to
adopt knitting in their process as well. To this end, we present SHIMA
SEIKI’s exhibition theme at ITMA 2019: KNITify the World™.
SHIMA SEIKI takes on the challenge of knitting what was previously
deemed impossible to knit, or what has never even been considered
for knitting. Applications range from sports and shoes to medical, auto
motive, aeronautical and other wearable and industrial textile applica
tions. These are growing areas whose demand will likely rise globally.
Looking to expand your business? Visit our booth at ITMA 2019 in
Hall 8.0, Stand B106 and see for yourself.
You’ll be suprised by what can be knit nowadays, in a KNITified World.
w w w . s h i m a s e i k i . c o m
Things are Looking
BRIGHTER in a
KNITified World.
SHIMA SEIKI and WHOLEGARMENT are registered trademarks or trademarks of SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. in Japan and/or other countries. ©2019 SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD.
Visit us at
Hall 8.0
Booth B106

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