FEBRUARY 2015

ISSN NO.: 2278-8972 | RNI No.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707
FEBRUARY - 2015 | Volume 3 | Issue 2 | Pages 52www.textilevaluechain.com
No Research, No Progress...!
Technical Textiles: Filtration Fabric Overview /Textiles in High Risk Sports
Home Textiles : A cluster based approach
Cotton Report / Yarn Updates
Rieter , Birla Cellulose, Garments SME's Brand Focus
4
4
4
4

EDITORIAL
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
Editorial Advisor
Missing Slipper of Cindrella
Textile success story demands full help for Scientific Research.
The authorities at the centre decidedly deserve all praise for
theirvisiontoupgradetechnologyofthetextileindustry.Some
years ago, the Indian Textile Industry was condemned as a
museum of junk machinery. This was a most uncharitable
comment, which overlooked the ground realities. An
investment of over Rs.2.50 lakh crore in subsequent years in
capital assets under TUFS has transformed the Indian Textile
Industry which is now competing with the best in the world. A
newdimensionemergedintherecentyears,withvariousState
Governments announcing their additional support to
strengthenthemusclesoftheindustry.
Cotton growers also deserve a pat for their efforts for
substantial increase in production. So far, there is no firm
indicationofcottonproductioninthecurrentseason,although
it is generally believed that production may scale a new peak.
But the cotton growers are facing a grim situation due to a
sharp fall in prices. What an irony of situation ! This is mainly
due to China which has, it seems, jettisoned its buffer stock
scheme for cotton and planned withdrawal from the textile
manufacturingactivityinaphasedmanner.
It is praiseworthy that Cotton Association of India(CAI) has
planned a programme to step up cotton consumption in the
country. Surely, overdependence on exports is not in the best
interest of growers. CAI's efforts must be strongly
supplemented by the development of products in which
cotton is used. This is purely a scientific field, which is different
fromassimilationofnewtechnologybytheindustry.
It is to be noted that, 80-90% of weaving, processing, knitting
and garmenting are in the decentralized sector. Obviously,
their capacity to undertake product development is awfully
limited. In the organized sector, mill companies are by and
large medium-sized, while only a few large corporates may
have financial strength to undertake product research, but not
theoverwhelmingbulkoftheindustry.HenceitistheResearch
Associationswhichmuststepin.
Due to financial crunch, the
Research Associations have not
been able to refocus their
activities as per the needs of the
present time. Today they are
strugglingtomeetbothends.
Surely, It is a matter of gratitude that the illustrious family of
Sarabhais mooted the idea of co-operative approach to Textile
Research, which laid the foundation of Ahmedabad Textile
Research Association[ATIRA]. Bombay, as the city was then
called, took a cue and established Bombay Textile Research
Association[BTRA]. NexttofollowwasSouthIndiaTextileMill'
Association [SITRA ]. North cannot remain unmoved and
Northern India Textiles Research was not to lag behind and
NITRAalsostarteddazzlingonthehorizon.
This co-operative model for Scientific Research in Textiles must
be fully strengthened to become the gems of the industry. The
textile industry will not be able to win the race of supremacy in
the international market, unless Research Associations in the
countryacceptthechallengeofproductdevelopment.
Government should include in their lexcicon Research
Associations for giving liberal grants to do research with a
commercial bias, so that the world may appreciate that no
dressisperfectunlessitbearsan'IndianLabel'

www.textilevaluechain.com
TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 2015 1
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Production Capacity : 10 million meters per year.
Width Options :
From 147 cms upto 160 cms finished width.
Treatment Offered :
Anti bacterial, U/V Protection, Functional fabrics, Wrinkle free.
Finished Offered :
Normal Soft Finish, Teflon finish (NT,HT, LAD, Advanced Teflon),
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Packing Options : Roll Form/ Double fold
( In Roll from : 50 -100 meters)
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Desk Loom/ Lab Dips - 1 week, Sample Yardage -3 weeks
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Tel.: 23934712 / 23951612 / 32600574 Fax : 23965942

EUARY 2015 ISSUE In this Issue...
EDITORIAL TEAM
Graphic Designer
Mr. Anant A. Jogale
Advertising & Sales
Md. Tanweer
Editorial Advisor
Shri V.Y. Tamhane
INDUSTRY
Mr. Devchand Chheda
City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)
Mr. Manohar Samuel
President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries
Dr. M. K. Talukdar
VP, Kusumgar Corporates
Mr. Shailendra Pandey
VP (Head – Sales and Marketing),Indian Rayon
Mr. Ajay Sharma
Ms. Jigna Shah
GM- RSWM ( LNJ Bhilwara Group)
Editor & Publisher
EDUCATION / RESEARCH
Mr. B.V. Doctor
HOD knitting, SASMIRA ,
Dr. Ela Dedhia
Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College
Dr. Mangesh D. Teli
Professor, Dean ICT
Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay
Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT
Dr. Rajan Nachane
Retired Scientist, CIRCOT
CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION
Mr. Shivram Krishnan
Senior Textile Advisor
Mr. G. Benerjee
Management & Industrial Consultant
Mr. Uttam Jain
Director PDEXCIL; VP of Hindustan Chamber of Commerce
Mr. Shiv Kanodia
Sec General, Bharat Merchant Chamber
Mr. N.D. Mhatre
Dy. Director, ITAMMA
Consulting Editor
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
NEWS
9 – Government News
10- Corporate News : ATE & VALENTINE
11- Corporate News : IKEA & YAMUNA
39- Association News : EDANA
COVER STORY : RESEARCH IS THE CORE TO INNOVATION
12- Views by Economic Analyst
12 – Need for R& D by BTRA
13- Study Report by NITRA
14 – Transformation, Support Require by ATIRA
ARTICLES
18- Technical Textile into Filtration Fabric by Mr. Avinash Mayekar
25 – Review Technical Article : Textiles for high risk Sports by WRA Scientist
39- Inertia of Manufacturing by Mr. Harish Chatterjee
41- Home Textiles Industry in India- A cluster based Approach, Mrs. Pravin Batra
BRAND FOCUS :
22- TEXTILE MACHINERY : RIETER
23- FIBER : BIRLA CELLULOSE
50- GARMENT/ FASHION : CUP CAKE – Kids wear,
ORIGINAL VARSITY LEAGUE : Men's wear
51- GARMENT/ FASHION : H.G. FASHION – Men's Ethnic Wear
SHOW REPORT
34- TAXFAIR FARM TO FINISH 2015
35- GTTES 2015
16- NGF by CMAI– JAN 2015
16 – GOTS Conference
48- Show Calendar
38- Congratulations…TAI Awards MOU Gujnon
MARKET REPORT
44- Cotton report
47- Yarn Updates
· Page 5 : SGS Innovation
· Page 6 : Textile Expo
· Page 7 : VHM Industries
· Page 8 : Dynamic Loom
· Page 17 : Textile Committee
· Page 20 : Nonwoven Tech Asia
· Page 21 : Shree ram Textiles
· Page 24 : Technotex
· Page 33 : Tyco Source Tag
· Page 36 : Sanjay Plastic
· Page 37 : Amith Garment
· Page 40 : Homtex Tech
· Page 49 : Cotton Guru
ADVERTISER INDEX
· Raymond : Back Page
· Birla Cellulose ; Back Inside
· Front Inside : Messe Frankfurt
· Page 1 : Narain Synthetics
· Page 3 : Bajaj Silk Fab

TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN | Feb 20158

GRANT OF SUBSIDY TO JUTE CORPORATION OF INDIA TO MAINTAIN ITS INFRASTRUCTURE FOR MSP OPERATIONS
The Cabinet Committee on Econom-
ic Affairs, chaired by the Prime Minister
Shri Narendra Modi, has approved pro-
viding financial support to the JCI, it has
been decided to provide subsidy to Jute
Corporation of India (JCI) on a continu-
ous basis to off-set the losses on account
of Minimum Support Price (MSP) opera-
tions by JCI. The quantum of subsidy will
include the difference between the Pur-
chase and Sale Price of MSP Raw Jute.
The quantum of subsidy will also include
fixed overhead costs incurred by JCI in
maintaining its infrastructure for MSP
operation. The reimbursement of fixed
overhead cost would be maintained al-
beit at a reducing amount as per the de-
tails given below:
2014-15 2015-16 2016-17 2016-17
Annual subsidy/
Grant for maintaining its
infrastructure for MSP op-
erations
55.00 52.11 49.38 46.78
In Rs. Crore
The decision will provide financial
support to Jute Corporation of India to
protect the interest of the Jute Growers
through procurement of Raw Jute under
the MSP fixed by the Government of India
and also to stabilize the raw jute market
for the benefit of the 40 lakh farm fami-
lies and the jute economy as a whole.
JCI is the Price Support Agency of the
Govt. of India for jute to protect the inter-
est of the Jute Growers through procure-
ment of Raw Jute under the MSP fixed by
the Govt. of India from time to time and
also to stabilize the raw jute market for
the benefit of the jute farmers and the
jute economy as a whole. To enable JCI
to conduct MSP operation and be in pre-
paredness for MSP at the start of every
year, yearly grant is provided to the JCI to
meet its operational expenditure over-
heads for MSP preparedness
GOVT. NEWS
ACHIEVEMENTS AND INITIATIVES OF MINISTRY OF TEXTILES DURING 2014
Year End Review 2014
Setting up Integrated Textile Parks
The implementation of the scheme
was held up during the last one year
due to administrative bottlenecks and
no sanction was given for new parks.
The new government moved swiftly to
resolve the issues and 13 new textiles
parks were approved by the Project Ap-
proval Committee (PAC) chaired by the
Minister of State for Textiles (indepen-
dent Charge) Shri Santosh Kumar Gang-
war. While these 13 textile parks will
receive a grant to the extent of Rs 520
crores from government for infrastruc-
ture development, they are estimated
to bring in private sector investment of
about Rs 3240 crores into the sector and
generate direct employment for about
35,000 persons over the next three
years. Besides, a fresh advertisement
would be issued calling for proposals for
more ITPs for utilization of the balance
provision during the 12th plan period.
Exports
With a vision to create an export
friendly economy the government intro-
duced several initiatives –
Duty free entitlement to garment
exportersfor import of trimmings, em-
bellishments and other specified items
increased from 3% to 5%. This initia-
tive is expected to generate an additional
RMG exports estimated at Rs.10,000
Crore.
The government has also proposed
to extend 24/7 customs clearance facil-
ity at 13 airports and 14 sea ports re-
sulting in faster clearance of import and
export cargo.
The proposal for imposing duty on
branded items was dropped providing
relief to the entire value chain.
Development of Handloom:
National Institute of Fashion Tech-
nology and leading members of the
fashion industry have been roped in
for design support to weavers. In order
to provide better marketing reach, the
Ministry has launched an E-commerce
initiative Flipkart. This will strengthen
the existing Primary Weaver Coopera-
tive Society by assisting entrepreneur
from the weavers families for taking up
production and supply directly to the
customers.
Synergy of handloom, handicraft
with tourism has been worked out in
consultation with Ministry of Tourism.
State Chief Secretaries have been re-
quested for identifying traditional han-
dloom weavers/handicraft artisans vil-
lages for development as “Adarsh Gram”
as tourists destination.
Development of Tassar handloom
products like sarees, dress material and
wide range of home furnishing fabric for
exports typical to Bhagalpur in Bihar has
been initiated under Handloom Mega
Cluster Scheme. Another mega cluster
is being developed at Trichy, Tamilnadu.
Over 15,000 handloom weavers will be
directly benefited under each these two
clusters. The remaining new megaclus-
ters at Surat, Bareilly, Lucknow, Kutch
and Mysore announced in the Budget
Speech are at various stages of imple-
mentation.
Handicraft
Promotion of major crafts of Vara-
nasi namely wood carving, carpet and
durry weaving, meenakari and zardozi
and pottery etc. have been taken up by
providing assistance to the artisans with
better skill, design and supply of toolkits
etc. This was formally launched by the
Textiles Minister on 26.9.2014. A Skill
Development Programme for training
5000 carpet weavers has been taken up
through the Carpet Export Promotion
Council (CEPC). An Integrated Design
Project of 5 months duration for wood-
en toys would be organized by National
Centre for Design and Product Devel-
opment (NCDPD). Electric wheels were
given to potters under the Design and
Technological Upgradation Scheme of
Handicrafts in Delhi and later at Bareilly.
·

A.T.E. has been representing Zimmer
since 2013 for sale of its entire range
of machinery covering digital printing
systems, flat screen and rotary screen
printing, coating, and drying machines
for textiles as well as carpet finishing.
The scope of representation has now
been expanded to cover service includ-
ing erection, commissioning, and trouble
shooting.
J. ZimmerMaschinenbau GmbH, Aus-
tria, which was established more than
135 years ago offers a complete range of
high quality, reliable printing systems as
well as related software. Zimmer is also
known for its complete process and ap-
plication know-how in printing.
Mumbai/
Delhi
Mr Victor
Menezes
Phone:
09323708355
Email:v_j_menezes@ateindia.com
Ahmedabad Mr Devang
Dave
Phone:
09374471800
Email: d_d_dave@ateindia.com
Coimbatore Mr R. Then-
narasan
Phone:
09362016587
Email: r_thennarasan@ateindia.com
A.T.E. NOW OFFERS SERVICE FOR ZIMMERMACHINES
A.T.E. has a team of well trained and
experienced engineers, who have been
extensively trained in Zimmer machines
and can now handle the erection, com-
missioning and trouble-shooting of
these machines independently. Thus,
customers can now avail of quick and
cost effective services from A.T.E.
A.T.E. has already rendered satis-
factory services, including erection and
commissioning, for Zimmer rotary print-
ing machines to various customers in In-
dia like:
• Arvind Mills Ltd., Ahmedabad
• Kitex Garments Ltd., Kochi
• GHCL Ltd., Bhilad
• Bombay Dyeing Mfg. Co. Ltd.,
Ranjangaon
• Morarjee Mills Ltd., Nagpur
For Zimmer machine services, please
contact:
Ashapura Intimates Fashion Ltd.
has opened its new flagship “Valentine
Loungewear Showroom” at Rajyog, Vard-
haman Nagar, Mulund West, Mumbai. It
has distinction to be the first ever larg-
est loungewear showroom not only in
Mumbai, but entire Maharashtra. It has
been spread over two floors modeled on
international architectural design, hav-
ing glittering distinctive presence in
the up-market Mulund shopping locality.
The Valentine Loungewear show-
room of Mulund was inaugurated by Mr.
Harshad H. Thakkar, Chairman Manag-
ing Director of Ashapura Intimates Fash-
ion Ltd. of Ashapura –Valentine Group on
Sunday 18th January 2015.
Ashapura –Valentine Group has
entered into retail segment recently.
The company’s first Valentine show-
room spread over 1550 square feet
was opened at Hill Road, Bandra, in the
month of December 2014. This, Mulund
showroom has been second showroom
of the Group. This will be followed by
new Valentine showrooms coming up at
Borivali, Thane and Ghatkopar soon. The
company has massive expansion plan to
set up 26 Valentine Loungewear show-
rooms in Greater Mumbai by end of De-
cember 2015. The company also plans
to expand retail showrooms on franchise
basis across India.
Ashapura Intimates Fashion Limited
has emerged having largest product bas-
ket globally in a niche segment of Lounge
Wear. With the vertically integrated
manufacturing, the 2nd state of the art
plant will open in Gujarat in near future,
the company will have biggest capacity
in production warehousing in lounge
wear in India.
Under the ‘Valentine’ brand, the
company sells intimate garments such
as lounge wear, bridal night wear, honey-
moon sets, bathrobes, nightwear, relax-
wear, sportswear, leggings, camisole,
bra panties etc. The new loungewear
range is meant for gents, ladies, kids and
toddlers.
The company has export order of
Rs.. 65 crore for the year 2014-15. The
company mainly exports to Middle East
and now plans to expand its export hori-
zon to other countries. The company has
growth rate of 30% per annum.
In India, The Group has 130 dis-
tributors and products are sold through
13,000 retail outlets across the coun-
try. The company has MOUs with on-
line shopping sites like Myntra, Jabong/
Home Shop 18 and own website.
About Ashapura- Valentine Group
The Ashapura Valentine Group con-
sists of 2 listed companies, viz. Asha-
pura Intimates Fashion Ltd. and Momai
Apparels Ltd. Mr. Harshad H. Thakkar,
Chairman Managing Director of the
Group has a great vision at an young age
of 37 years providing rapid expansion of
the group. During 2013-14 the consoli-
dated group turnover was Rs. 200 crore
and it is expected to crossRs. 240 crore
in the current year 2014-15.
CORPORATE NEWS
FIRST EVER LARGEST LOUNGEWEAR SHOWROOM OPENED IN MULUND-MUMBAI
VALENTINE SHOWROOM SPREAD OVER TWO FLOORS: BIGGEST LOUNGEWEAR SHOWROOM IN MAHARASHTRA

The IKEA Group net income amount-
ed to EUR 3.3 billion for the financial
year 2014. Market conditions continued
to improve with strong performance in
China and North America, and an up-
ward trend in Europe. There were 716
million visits to the IKEA Group stores
and more than 1.5 billion visits to IKEA.
com.
“FY14 was a good year for IKEA. I
am happy to see increased growth in all
our sales channels; in existing stores,
in the opening of new stores and in e-
commerce. We reached some important
milestones towards becoming energy
independent and saw a 58% increase in
the sales value of products that enable
people to live a more sustainable life at
home. Sustainability is an integral part
of our business strategy”, says President
and CEO Peter Agnefjäll.
Total sales increased by 5.9% (ad-
justed for currency impact) from last
year to EUR 28.7 billion. Together with
the rental income from the shopping
centre business, total revenue amounted
to EUR 29.3 billion (+2.8%). The IKEA
Group gained market share in almost all
markets and entered a new country –
Croatia. The largest markets in terms of
sales were Germany, US, France, Russia
and the UK.
“We have an ambitious growth
agenda and at the same time we’re de-
termined to have a positive impact on
people and the planet. Our size gives us a
unique opportunity to make a difference
and contribute to positive change in so-
ciety, for instance by making energy-
efficient lighting both affordable and at-
tractive for millions of people”, continues
Peter Agnefjäll.
Within its own operations, the IKEA
Group produced renewable energy
equivalent to 42% of the total energy
consumed and aims by the end of 2015
to have invested and committed to in-
vest EUR 1.5 billion in renewable energy
projects, mainly offsite wind farms and
photovoltaic (PV) panels.
In FY14, EUR 200 million were set
aside to a new loyalty programme Tack!
and the amount for the One IKEA Bonus
Program was increased by EUR 98 mil-
lion, as a thank you to our co-workers.
“A key factor to our strong perfor-
mance is that we have a long-term view,
and don’t aim to maximise short-term
profits. We strive to continuously cre-
ate better products at lower prices to
our customers and to make substantial
investments in our future”, says Peter
Agnefjäll.
FY 2014: THE IKEA GROUP CONTINUES TO GROW AND ENABLE MORE CUSTOMERS TO LIVE
A SUSTAINABLE LIFE AT HOME
D.K.T.E. COE IN NONWOVENS PARTENERS WITH YAMUNA MACHINE WORKS LTD FOR
FINISHING OF NEEDLE PUNCHED NONWOVENS
To facilitate the growth of Techni-
cal Textiles industry in India, the office
of Textile Commissioner, Ministry of
Textiles, Government of India has an-
nounced different schemes to promote
Technical Textiles in India as a part of
Technology Mission for Technical Tex-
tiles. D.K.T.E. is selected for establishing
the COE in Nonwovens during the year
2011-12. The one of the objectives of
COE is to set up state of the art R and D
facilities for product development to en-
able the Indian industry to accomplish
international quality norms. Their in-
tensive study and research in nonwoven
products and processes resulted into
the decision to buy minimum possible
industrial width lines for different bond-
ing techniques to create a facility for the
Indian nonwoven industry to conduct
trials, sample production for seed mar-
keting train their personnel etc.,. He
believes their decision will just not stim-
ulate the investment and growth in the
sector but also will help to evolve and
develop nonwoven products made in In-
dia for India.”
D.K.T.E. COE in Nonwovens has al-
ready commissioned Truetzschler uni-
versal needle punch line in 2 meters. To
utilize capabilities of Truetzschler Cross
Lapper, D.K.T.E. has planned to add fin-
ishing machines for needle punched
nonwovens with Thermo-fusion capa-
bilities and Heat Setting Calendering.
For this phase, DTKE COE for Non-
WOvens has partnered with YAMUNA for
supplying the thermo fusion finishing
and heatsetting caleendering machines.
Prof. C. A. Patil, Director, D.K.T.E. CoE
in Nonwovens is extremely happy with
the Yamuna Machine Works Ltd being
their partner in their prestigious project.
Yamuna Machine Works is active in the
field of Nonwovens for many years and
have strong references in Indian Nonwo-
ven Industry. Prof. Patil further added
that, they prefer to work with strong In-
dian Machinery Makers for Nonwovens
and only in case, they are unable to find
such suppliers, they will prefer strong
European supplier.
Mr. Prashant Mangukia, Director
of M/s Yamuna Machine Works Ltd is
delighted with their association with
D.K.T.E. CoE in Nonwovens and promised
that his company will make everything
possible for the success of the lines to
be supplied and confident that, the asso-
ciation will be beneficial for all the stake
holders and for the RD of nonwovens
for the Indian technical textile industry.
Yamuna Machine Works will deliver
Thermo-fusion line and Heat Setting Cal-
ender by April 2015 and confident that
the lines will be commissioned by June
2015.
DKTE COE in Nonwovens also has
plans to buy Spunlace, Chemical, SMS,
Coating and Lamination line, fiber re-
trieving lines in industrial width to com-
plete their infrastructure for prototyping
and incubation.
CORPORATE NEWS

Funding Pattern
The Government of India funds TRA’s under both plan and
non-plan heads . Non – plan funds are primarily to meet a part
of their administrative expenses. Plan funds are for carrying
out planned research projects and offering comepnsation pak-
ages to scientist purchasing capital assets required for the
sanctioned project. Prior to 1988, the government was sharing
50% of the recurring expenditure as non-plan funds and 100%
funding was available for the sanctioned projects. Through
various decisions , this funding pattern for TRA’s continued
till 2003, when it was decided that 10% of grants released un-
der non-plan in 2003-2004 would be reduced every year from
2004 – 2005 and after 10 years from 2013-2014 onwards no
non-plan funding be given to TRA’s. However , due to represen-
tation from TRA’s, in a meeting in 2009 , it was decided that
non-plan assistance to TRA’s could be restored to the previous
level of 2004 – 2005 for smooth working of TRA’s . This was re-
iterated in 2010. Since then the non-plan funds are continuing
at the same level inspite of inflation and all-round escalation
in cost of living and running these organizations . The standing
finance committee for the scheme for RD for textile industry
, in December,2014 recommended a total of Rs. 50crore for
the period 2014 -2015 to 2018 – 2019 with about 8 crore for
2014-2015 , Rs. 10crore for 2015 – 2016 2016-2017 and Rs.
11 crore for 2017 – 2018 2018 -2019 . This allocation is for
textile industry other than jute sector for which Rs. 80 crore is
earmarked for the period 2014- 2019. In addition Rs. 15 crore
is allotted for green initiatives for the same five year period.
Textile vision
If the intention of the Ministry the industry is to achieve
FUNDING TO TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS ( TRA’S)
textile trade of approximately US$ 350 or more by 2020, the
industry has to move up the value chain from Commodity mar-
ket to high value products both for export and domestic mar-
kets. This is true all the more looking to increasing competition
from less developed countries. Product / process development
for textile industry is imperative and there is no alternative to
RD in this sector. If “Make in India” is to succeed, intellectual
capital formation is a pre-requisite.
While multinationals in other sectors invest in RD , In-
dian textile industry is yet to take a major initiatives in RD for
the industry; till such time, the government may provide core
fund to TRA’s to upgrade their infrastructure and to meet their
scientists salary expenditure to be on par with scientists in
other sectors. Jobs in TRA’s have to be made equally lucrative
as in other research establishments – both private and govern-
ment . It is only then TRA’s can be weaned away from using
their physical resources for earning their salary and focus on
RD.
Product development
Product development is an important area of research
because a product sells on the strength of its quality and in-
novative features. This cannot be achieved by individual units
particularly in the decentralised sector. An amount of Rs ten
crore will be required to set up requisite R and D facility to
research into durable finishing for better wrinkle recovery and
easy-care properties, water repellent breathable finish, mois-
ture management technology in personal - care products, etc.
Surely, Government will be interested to promote R and D
which will promote and stabilize textile industry, create lakhs
of additional jobs and bring in larger quantum of foreign ex-
change.
COVER STORY
By Economic Analyst
Cotton versus Man-made fibres
Cotton, inspite of severe competition from manmade fi-
bres continues to hold its position in the textile industry world
wide accounting around 45% of fibres used ; in India 60% of
fibre used by the industry is cotton. While cotton has many de-
sirable characteristics like good moisture absorption ,wicking
NEW OUTLET FOR COTTON : NEED FOR RD
By Dr. A.N. Desai, Director, BTRA and cotton fabrics are breathable , the fibre suffers from some
disadvantages as well ; for instance poor wrinkle recovery
and does not have easy care properties like synthetics. Plasma
technology can be used for durable finish of cotton using non-
hazardous chemicals . Another research area in this durable
finish foe wrinkle recovery is iconic crosslinking. These tech-
nologies are clean and eco-friendly and need to be explored.
Thus competitiveness of cotton is also related to technology
change and diversified end uses. Creating new markets for cot-
NO RESEARCH, NO PROGRESS…!
We are living in the world which is technology driven. In today’s world no industry can make progress and develop without
constant research in the product development. Think for a moment how technology has radically transformed a cell phone into
an i-pad and i-phone, in a short span of time.
Textile industry showed consider itself fortunate enough because the research associations were set up right at the start of
the planned economy in the country. However, time has come to strengthen their financial muscles. So that the products of the
industry is based on research will enjoy the worldwide acceptance.
TVC has great pleasure in publishing articles to focus on the problem faced by research associations at how they win need of
the industry to climb the summit of excellence on the strength of innovation.
Editorial Advisor

ton or introducing cotton in existing products is an area that
needs to be looked into. In industrial or technical textiles use
of cotton needs non traditional technologies.
Cotton in personal care sector in uses like wipes , feminine
hygiene products is a valuable raw material since it is comfort-
able for next to skin applications . Its superior wet strength
enhances its tear strength in tough applications like domes-
tic wipes. Product development like Hi-DriTM - hydrophobic
purified cotton for use in hygiene or medical products while
keeping fabric and skin dry is desired. Propensity of cotton
to absorb moisture can often be a negative in some applica-
tions. Development of moisture management technology for
cotton where consumers can enjoy fast drying and moisture
wicking performance seen in synthetics but coupled with com-
fort and softness of cotton is highly desirable. Only two fibres
are of commercial significance in this regards in products de-
signed to pick up liquids and to wipe surface dry – cotton and
cellulose pulp. Cotton is exceptionally suitable for both single
use or long term use wipes .Some patented products of these
types are Tran Dry ®which allows fabric to work and spread
perspiration as well as or better than synthetics which helps
in a T-shirt with wicking and fast drying performance . Another
patented technology is Wicking Window eliminates feeling of
wet, saturated fabric against the body . The technology forces
the transfer of moisture away from skin to outside of fabrics
when it can evaporate, keeping the wearer drier and comfort-
able , say during an exercise. Self cleaning cotton fabric devel-
opment is another area that needs attention.
Galloping innovation
Many conventional water repellent treatments inhibit
fabric breathability and transfer of moisture . STORM Cotton
TM and STORM Denim TM are examples of durable highly
water repellent finish at same time breathable. Technologies
like Plasma application - a clean and green technology with
minimum water usage – can be applied by many finishes in
eco-friendly ways – wrinkle recovery, breathable but water
repellent , fabrics including denims and many multifunctional
finishes like a fabric having at the same time properties such as
fire retardant , antibacterial and UV protective.
In the area of protective textiles in applications where heat
stress influences productivity – in chemical protective clothing
,reports indicate cotton non-woven treated to enhance water
repellency performed better than synthetics. Cotton needle
punched nonwovens are reported to be a very feasible idea
for accoqusticinsulation. In industrial filters, filtration perfor-
mance of fibres depends on physical ,mechanical and chemical
properties as well as on fibre morphology and stress – strain
response to filtration environment. Cotton ranks high in fil-
tration efficiency of both liquid and gas in those environment
which are compatible with cellulose.
Steps to promote cotton consumption
India being the 2nd largest producer of cotton needs to
look beyond the conventional yarn and fabric production tech-
niques. Research efforts for product / process development is
imperative for new outlets for cotton usage, improved finishes
for current products and technology development to replace
or attain the properties of synthetics . Use of cotton in tech-
nical textiles and nonwovens is negligible in India. With non-
woven industry picking up in India , hydro entanglement and
thermal bonding to cotton nonwovens need to be promoted to
developnew products and replace some of the synthetic prod-
ucts. Research efforts on the lines of Cotton Incorporated in
the USA are necessary to promote use of cotton and protect
the interests of cotton growers, cotton trade and other stake-
holders of cotton economy . Perhaps a Centre of excellence to
promote cotton or allot different areas of post harvest cotton
technology to different research institution is worth exploring.
Place in Indian Economy
The textile and clothing industry plays a very impor-
tant role in Indian economy and society. It is second only to
Agriculture in employment in India. Around 45 million people
are directly engaged in this industry and around 60 million
in allied industries. As per the projection at the end of 12th
Plan the engagement will be 52 and 62 million respectively.
It contributes 4% of GDP and accounts for 12% of country’s
total export basket. It contributes towards 14% of industrial
production. During 2012-13 the total export of textiles and
clothing was Rupees 171971 crores i.e. US$. 31625 million.
It increased to Rupees 214918 crores i.e. US$ 35426 million
showing a growth of 25% (in rupees). As per 12th five year
plan (2012-17), India envisages export of textiles and cloth-
ing worth US$ 64.41 billion by the end of March 2017. In addi-
tion there will be a significant increase in demand of clothing
in domestic market due to increased per capita consumption.
ROLE OF RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT IN DEVELOPMENT OF INDIAN TEXTILES AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY
This increase is already seen due to India’s large number of
young people, increased disposable income, increased fashion
consciousness and exposure of developed foreign countries.
The unique feature of Indian textile industry is a large
portion of textile and clothing products are produced in de-
centralised sector. In cloth production only 4-5% of total cloth
is produced by organised sector. Around 60% cloth is pro-
duced by power-loom sector and around 13% in handloom
sector. Majority of knitting and garment industry comes under
small industries i.e. decentralised sector. These sectors need
research and development including product development in-
tervention for their sustainability.
Origin of TRAs
Since then, TRAs have been helping Indian textile indus-
try in many ways. They conduct applied research mainly ap-
plicable to textile/garment industry. RD helps the industry
to stay ahead and compete with developed and developing
countries. Export data show how the textile industry improved
Dr. Arindam Basu, NITRA
COVER STORY

its performances and has become a respectable figure in the
International scenario. Besides, TRAs help the Government in
policy- making related to textiles and clothing industry in In-
dia. Norms published by the TRAs help in bench-marking the
performance of industrial units.
NITRA for example helps industries in energy saving,
waste control, manpower rationalisation and product develop-
ment. Indigenous instruments and machines developed by NI-
TRA help the industry in process control and quality control at
reasonable cost. Some years ago the funding from the Govern-
ment of India has been cut down drastically forcing the TRAs
to concentrate on income generation activities such as test-
ing, consultancy and training. Big companies have their own
Research and Development divisions but the decentralised in-
dustry does not have means to conduct research activities and
product development. If TRAs do not do research work, their
consultancy i.e. dissemination of their research findings will
be very limited. This may affect the decentralised sector badly
causing job losses for a large number of people. Countries like
Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Myanmar will take this advantage
and capture the market including Indian domestic market. As
mentioned earlier a big proportion of textile industry is in the
decentralised sector .
The ill-effect of this development will cause a significant
adverse impact on Indian economy.
Product development
The textile industry in developed countries is present-
ly concentrating on high value addition to sustain its business.
As Indian economy grows, India will also face sustainability
problem unless textile industry diversifies in high value- add-
ed products such as technical textiles. Technical textiles are
knowledge- based products used for other than garmenting
purpose. The Government of India has identified 8 institutes/
TRAs as Centre of Excellence (CoE) for different areas of Tech-
nical Textiles. For example NITRA has been identified as Centre
of Excellence for Protective Textiles and sanctioned around 20
Crores of rupees for upgrading the laboratory and acquiring
specialised instruments/ machines required for protective
textiles. Similarly SITRA, BTRA, SASMIRA have been identified
for Medical textiles, Geo-textiles and Agro-textiles respectively.
Being new areas a lot of Research and Product development
activities has to be undertaken. Some of the products devel-
oped by NITRA are:
* Stab resistant fabric for Hi-modulus Polyethylene fibre
* Cut resistant fabric using composite metallic yarn
* Seamless low cost jute carry bags
* Nylon/ cotton (NYCO) fabric for Para-military and military
combat uniform
* Exploration of utilisation of Corn husks in textiles
* A special functional fabric for bedding and sportswear for
providing extra ordinary comfort with excellent micro-
climate.
* Functional fabric to provide bacterial and UV protection
* Protective clothing for workers in pesticide industry
* X-ray opaque textile materials
Many of the above have been commercialised. For decen-
tralised sector it is very much important that TRAs help them
in these areas. Besides, new standards are being developed by
the CoEs which needs lot of scientific studies. It is very much
important for the TRAs to have few scientists fully engaged in
these areas. Fund restriction forces TRAs to offer less salary
which results in attracting only mediocre students which is not
very good for the Research and Development.
As compared to developed countries India’s invest-
ment in RD per capita is very low and for textile industry it
is much lower. Spending on RD in India is 0.9% of its GDP
whereas the spending on RD by USA, Japan, Germany and
China are 2.7%, 3.67%, 2.3% and 2.08% respectively of their
respective GDPs. In India major RD expenditure is in Pharma-
ceutical and software. In this situation further improvement
in Textile/clothing industry will get affected if more funds are
not pumped into RD. Instead of creating new centres it is bet-
ter to invest in the TRAs which have already made good infra-
structure and core competency.
Origin
The genesis of ATIRA was to work as an extension centre
to the industry. The context decides the content. As the con-
text changes, the content must change. ATIRA was established
over six decades ago. The context then and the context now are
radically different
Change in the Focus
With rapid change in the industrial scenario, the textile
industry is reorienting towards more value addition and alter-
native product mix. ATIRA needed adequate transformation in
its methodology and structure to fulfill the requirement of the
textile sector. With time, scope of textiles has enlarged to suit
the needs of the end users both in textile and outside the tex-
tile industry which required paradigm shift in our approach
apart from huge investment both in capital as well as in human
resources. ATIRA has taken up this challenge and has come
out with successful results. Undertaking path breaking proj-
ects both in the traditional and technical textiles, introduction
of innovative areas of work, increasing customer base year
after year to the extent of 10 percent, revenue growth of 15
percent are the salient indicators of our success story, besides
TRANSFORMATION OF ATIRA: INITIATIVES TAKEN, SUPPORT REQUIRED
By Shri R.M Sankar, Principal Scientific Officer, ATIRA
COVER STORY

judicious utilisation of public funds on State and Central gov-
ernment sponsored projects.
There is lot more to be done. ATIRA has pursued to work
on alternative technologies in the light weight concept of
mobility sector especially in the mass transportation by us-
ing composites that enable aesthetics, energy conservation,
easy replaceability of parts and cost reduction. House for the
masses uniquely designed using composite panels, to provide
affordable, quality, modular and eco-friendly accomodation for
the ever increasing populace of India is another area of work
in the pursuit. Other innovative areas that are in the agenda
are composite pipes, gas cylinders that touch lives of the mass-
es with better alternative material to provide, safety, quality,
cost reduction. ATIRA intends to set up an Incubation Centre
for Composites to undertake RD on these areas to develop
implementable prototypes on the lines of successful operation
of Incubation centre at ATIRA for the development of various
types of technical textiles.
Technical Textiles
To promote production and usage of technical textiles in
the country, it is necessary to develop specialty yarns that are
mainly made up of polymers and blended with other fibres
like cotton to make newer varieties of fabrics. We propose that
the local polymer manufacturers should produce cost effective
polymers and should work in tandem with RD institutions
like ATIRA to make fibres and do yarn engineering to develop
fabrics which are cost effective solutions under Indian climatic
condition. Alternatively, speciality fibres can be supplied by
MNCs/PSUs from countries like Russia, China, USA, Korea,
France, Taiwan etc. through suitable MOUs for supply of poly-
mer/fibres which ultimately should result in establishment of
joint ventures in India.
Enzyme – based wet processing
Wet processing sector is known for the heavy water con-
sumption and thus creating issues of water pollution. This pe-
rennial problem can be addressed by encouraging adoption
of newer technologies such as enzyme based wet processing
of cotton cloth as well as low material to liquor ratio dyeing
for environment friendly processing. Adoption of waterless
chemical processing technologies as well as washing technolo-
gies would also address the same and remain ATIRA’s priority
areas.
ATIRA strives to achieve success in innovative areas of re-
search in textile that has path breaking results for the textile
industry and textile applications in other sectors such as con-
struction, mobility, housing that should have significant impact
effect on the population at large. ATIRA wishes to set up infra-
structure with funding support and deliver results to fulfill the
dreams of those who incorporated ATIRA.
Innovation centre of global repute
The vision is to transform ATIRA from being an extension
centre to industry to innovation centre of global repute. ATIRA
has taken several initiatives in RD and has established four
COEs: Nano-web technology, geo-synthetics, composites and
protective textiles. Frankly speaking, ATIRA has come to nego-
tiating a full circle – now is in the process of creating a common
state-of-the-art technology facility for the industry like the
one that was created in 1947- to work in the area of futuristic
textiles – Nano web based technologies, Geo-textiles applica-
tion to prevent environmental catastrophes like road erosion,
soil erosion, land slide etc., development of materials- a textile
based preforms and composites that are stronger and lighter
than metals with many added aspects conducive for technical
applications in construction, auto parts, wind energy, satellite
and aero industry needs. ATIRA is collaborating with institu-
tions and industries across the world in above areas to bring
in the best –in- class technologies in order to carry out India
centric proto type developments. ATIRA has proposed huge
investments in composite manufacturing technologies not af-
fordable by single industry and needs funding support.
Rein venting ATIRA
Reinventing ATIRA to make it a world class institution will
require huge rejuvenation of our physical and intellectual in-
frastructure. This will require significant resources. It is nec-
essary to think of novel ways of generating these resources,
not only through significantly enhanced support from the state
and the centre, but also other innovative means. Some of them
may be like -
• ATIRA’s scientists/technologists work on proprietary
technology and patent the outcome and share it with the in-
dustry on royalty basis. Like in Nano-web technology, ATIRA
has developed filtration media. Industry should come forward
to adopt developments.
• Industry can utilize new facilities created at ATIRA on
charge basis as no single industrial unit can afford to invest so
much on CAPEX. Hence at ATIRA such large CAPEX should be
invested for industry usage.
• The industry and ATIRA work on common projects
and work out a revenue sharing mechanism. The industry
should take initiative and make such common facilities more
relevant.
• Incubation centre for Technical textiles at ATIRA with
the state-of-the-art machineries. Industrial units, entrepre-
neurs, researchers, academia and the like should take advan-
tage of the infrastructure on charge basis
• In the area of legislative changes, if industry can help
RD institution to get the type of legislation that works in de-
veloping countries like China, Indonesia, Thailand etc. in areas
such as Geo-textiles, Composites and infrastructure, then the
institution can approach the government to convince them
to come out with appropriate legislations. There should be
common forum of industry-RD institution and these forums
should act as a platform for liasioning with government for
necessary policy changes that will be beneficial to RD, indus-
try, and public at large.
f) In the case of Geo-Textiles, there should have a forum
with academia as members like leading technical institutions
so that Post Graduate and Ph.D. students could take projects
and utilize ATIRA’s infrastructure for research activities
COVER STORY

www.textilevaluechain.comEVENT REPORT
Organic cotton is a highly sustainable fibre. It has been
ranked above conventional cotton, viscose bamboo and linen
in Higg’s Index. Globally, brands, retailers and consumers are
increasingly supporting organic cotton.
But to use organic fibres is not enough. The processing as-
pect is also very important. When environment friendly pro-
cessing techniques, coupled with socially responsible practices
are used in processing of organic fibres, the textiles produced
are best examples of sustainability.
GOTS combines all these aspects in a holistic way. The
textile market is a global one. Thus, a voluntary international
standard like GOTS, set in partnership with international stake-
holder communities, ensures widespread global acceptance. In
contrast to national standards, it also helps to remove barriers
to international trade. As such, GOTS is recognised as the lead-
ing processing standard (also called the ‘Gold Standard’) for
textiles made from organic fibres worldwide and serves as the
credible third party assurance for such textiles.
India is the largest producer of organic cotton (around
70% of the world). It is also the largest processing and export
market of textiles using organic fibres. With more than 1,000
facilities, India is also the country with the highest number of
GOTS certified facilities worldwide, which makes it actually the
hottest sourcing destination for the same. However, even more
commitment is required at garmenting stage to further exploit
ANNOUNCING THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL GOTS CONFERENCE STRONG PARTNERSHIPS FOR SUCCESS
to be held on 22nd May 2015, Mumbai, India
the potential in this sector.
It is in this background that
GOTS will be organising its first-
ever international conference on
Friday, 22nd May 2015 at The Lalit,
Mumbai, India. The theme of the
conference is ‘Strong Partnerships
for Success’. This event will once
again underline and highlight GOTS’ commitment to the Or-
ganic Textiles market in general, and India, in particular.
“The conference will be a great opportunity for all play-
ers in the textiles value chain, who are committed to sustain-
ability and looking towards implementing the business case
for sustainability with the help of GOTS - as their supply chain
management instrument of choice” says Claudia Kersten, GOTS
Marketing Director.
Attendees will benefit from the conference by means of
gathering new knowledge and insights in the fields of organic
fibre production as well as environmentally and socially re-
sponsible textile processing, gain a better understanding of re-
lated problems and possible solutions, learn about best prac-
tices and business cases for sustainability, harbour business
networking and strengthen communication, collaboration and
coordination amongst key stakeholders.
New textile policy
is almost ready and it
was expected to be an-
nounced immediately
after Central Budget,
informed Mrs. Kiran
Soni Gupta, Textile
Commissioner. She
made this announce-
ment while inaugurat-
ing The Clothing Man-
ufacturers Association
of India (CMAI)’s 60th
National Garment Fair on 28th January 2015 at Bombay Exhi-
bition Centre, NSE Complex, Goregaon (E), Mumbai. The Fair
would remain open till 29th January 2015.
Mrs. Kiran Soni Gupta stated that 61 Textile Parks have
been sanctioned out of which 55 Textile Parks are presently
operating. Further 13 Textile Parks are under consideration.
Some of the Textile Parks, like the one at Vishakhapattanam
Coimbatore have shown excellent performance.
Technical Textiles have very bright future. There has been
good demand with good scope for the industry to expand the
production capacity, further stated Textile Commissioner.
She further informed that Government has been promot-
ing North-East region with focus on agro – textiles and geo –
textiles.
Mr. Rahul Mehta, President of The Clothing Manufacturers
Association of India (CMAI) Chairman of International Ap-
parel Federation stated that in the year 2014-15, the growth
rate of domestic garment market was 10 to 12%, while the
growth rate of export market would be 18 to 20%.
This B2B Fair has 260 stalls displaying over 300 brands
of summer collection. It covers men’s wear, women wear, kids
wear, ethnic wear, intimate wear etc. good footfall of trade visi-
tors expected during the fair.
Mr. Ashok Shah, Chairman of Fair Sub-committee of CMAI
stated that next 61st National Garment Fair will be held from
29th June to 1st July 2015. It will be a massive fair with more
than 700 stalls spread over entire NSE Complex, Goregaon (E),
Mumbai.
NEW TEXTILE POLICY TO BE ANNOUNCED IMMEDIATELY AFTER BUDGET: TEXTILE COMMISSIONER
CMAI’S 60TH NATIONAL GARMENT FAIR INAUGURATED BY TEXTILE COMMISSIONER ON 28TH JANUARY AT GOREGAON –MUMBAI

Overview of Technical Textiles
Global technical textiles
market is at growth phase.
Technical textiles market was
worth USD 133.93 billion in
2012 is expected to increase to
USD 160.38 billion by the end
of 2018. In terms of volumes,
the global demand is expected
to reach 30.71 million tons by
2018, growing at a moderate
CAGR of 3.3% from 2012 to
2018. Their wide range of appli-
cations, lack of competition and
growing consumer and industri-
al demands make it a big opportunity area for Technical Textile
sector. Technical Textiles itself is a vast sector. Depending on
the product characteristics, functional requirements and end-
user applications the highly diversified range of technical tex-
tile products have been grouped into 12 categories based on
application namely Agrotech, Meditech, Buildtech,Mobiltech,
Clothtech, Oekotech, Geotech, Packtech, Hometech, Protech,
Indutech and Sportech. Technical textiles have wide area of
applications into filtration products in industries like mining,
pharmaceutical, food processing, desalination, automobile
aircraft.
Introduction to filtration
Filtration is the process where solids are separated from
fluids by interposing medium through which only fluid can
pass. Filtration is used to separate particles fluid in a sus-
pension, where fluid can be liquid, gas or supercritical fluid.
Depending upon the application, either one or both the com-
ponents can be isolated. Porosity permeability are two main
characteristics of filter media. Permeability increases with in-
crease in porosity of the filter media. Filtration can be classi-
fied into microfiltration, ultrafiltration, nanofiltration reverse
osmosis depending upon the size of fluid it can pass through.
TECHNICAL TEXTILES INTO FILTRATION FABRICS
Global filtration market is growing at rate of 7.6 % annually
and will reach to the mark of USD 65.9 billion in 2015.Textile
filter media can be classified into Woven filters, needle felted
knitted filters. Woven non-woven filters are produced into
flat form then formed into tubular shape while knitted fil-
ters are directly formed into tubular shape only.Woven filters
are made of yarn with a definite repeated pattern. Felted filters
are formed by laying fibres into mat then bonded together by
thermal, mechanical or chemical means attached to loosely
woven backing material. A membrane filter is a special treat-
ment where a thin, porous membrane is bonded to the support
fabric. Woven filters are generally used with low energy clean-
ing methods such as shaking and reverse-air. Felted fabrics
are usually used with higher energy cleaning systems such as
pulse-jet cleaning. Membrane filters were developed in efforts
to achieve high efficiency particle capture and to handle flue
gas conditions where high moisture and resulting high pres-
sure drop problems frequently occur.
Woven filters have open spaces around the fibers. The weave
design used will depend onthe intended application of the wo-
ven filter. Woven filters are designed into plain, twill or satin
weave. Woven weave is the tightest structure offering maxi-
mum resistance retaining particles very quickly whereas twill
satin weave are comparatively loose structure giving more
flow rate.
Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web
structures bonded together by entangling fiber or filaments
(and by perforating films) mechanically, thermally or chemi-
cally. They are flat, porous sheets that are made directly from
separate fibers or from molten plastic or plastic film. Some
of the important characteristics of nonwoven fabrics make it
suitable for filtration applications such as porosity, durability,
strength, washability, bacteria barrier, resistance to chemicals
high temperature resistance. Following diagram explains
manufacturing technologies of nonwoven fabrics. Nonwovens
are manufactured in two steps namely web formation web
consolidation.Formation of web can be done in various ways
like Card, Water, Air, or Melt Spinning.Web Consolidation can
be done by using Needles, Water, Chemicals, Heat or Air. De-
pending on the technology of their production, Nonwovens are
named accordingly. Following diagram explain various nonwo-
ven technologies.
NW Technologies
Web formation Technologies
Dry-laid Technologies Wet-laid Technologies
(similar to paper forming
technology)
Carded Airlaid
Hydroentangled
(Spunlace)
Needle
Punched
Thermal
Bonding
Resin/ Chemical
Bonding
Air-laced
Spunlaid
Technology
Spunbond Spunmelt Melt-blown
Web Formation + Consolidation
Technologies
Web Consolidation
TECHNICAL TEXTILES FOCUS
Mr. Avinash Mayekar
MD, Suvin Advisors Pvt. Ltd.
Sources: McKenna and Turner 1989 Greiner 1993.
Major applications
• Power Stations- A baghouse is an air pollution contr-
oldevice which removes particulates out of air orgas released
fromcommercialprocessesorcombustionforelectricitygener-
ation. Powerplants, steel mills, pharmaceutical industries,food
manufacturers, chemical producers andother industrial com-
panies often usebaghouses to control emission of airpollutants
into the atmosphere.

Characteristics of various fibres used as filter media
• Water Filtration -Reverse osmosis is a water purifi-
cation technology that uses a semi-
permeable membrane to remove
larger particles from drinking wa-
ter. In reverse osmosis, an applied
pressure is used to overcome os-
motic pressure, a colligative proper-
ty that is driven by chemical poten-
tial, a thermodynamic parameter.
Reverse osmosis can remove many
types of molecules and ions from solutions, including bacteria,
and is used in both industrial processes and the production of
potable water. The result is that the solute is retained on the
pressurized side of the membrane and the pure solvent is al-
lowed to pass to the other side
• HVAC filters - HVAC stands
for heating, ventilating, and air con-
ditioning. The HVAC systems are
used in industries, commercial and
residential buildings where hu-
midity and temperature need to be
closely regulated. HVAC filters be-
long to the category of air filtration
products. The HVAC filters include
pre filters, medium efficiency filters and HEPA filters. HEPA
or High Efficiency Particulate Air filters are high efficiency
filters capable of removing 99.97% of airborne particles of
0.3 micrometers (μm) diameter. Filters capable of removing
99.999% of dust, pollen, mold, bacteria and any airborne par-
ticles of size 120 nanometres or larger from the air are catego-
rised as ULPA or Ultra Low Penetration Air filter. The major
filter media used in HVAC filters are nonwoven and made of
polyester, polypropylene and glass fibre. These nonwoven me-
dia are generally needle punched and have a GSM of 200-250
• Vacuum cleaners-Vacuum cleaners have a filter to
remove the dust from the exhaust air. The dust is collected
in a paper bag which can be disposed of. Some of the vacuum
cleaners also use HEPA filters. The major filter media are non-
woven and made of polyester, polypropylene and glass fibre.
Nonwoven fabric used for vacuum cleaners are generally made
up of needle punched and have a GSM of 200-250.
• Automotive - Automotive filters are primarily of
three types - Oil filter, Air filter and Fuel filter. The filters clean
the oil, air and fuel by blocking dirt
and other unwanted particles from
entering the vehicle system. The
technical textile used in the filters
is cellulose and polyester non-wo-
ven filter paper.The characteristics
of the automotive filter are based
on the specification of the original
equipment manufacturers: perme-
ability, corrugation depth, bursting
strength, pore size, volatile content, resin content and width
and height. All the three filters are required for proper func-
tioning of internal combustion engine. The technical textile
used in the filters is polyester and cellulose non-woven fabric
of around 120-150 GSM.
• Geo-textiles- The non-woven geo-textile fabric is a
common choice for areas looking to stabilize, separate or fil-
ter materials. All non-woven fabrics
come with a needle-punched exte-
rior that allows thin water particles
to filter through the fabric while
keeping soil from filtering through.
This geo-textile filter fabric helps
to retain fine particles when water
passes from fine to coarse-grained
soil layers.
Growth drivers
Major drivers for the growth of global filtration indus-
tries are growing consumer awareness regarding health is-
sues, product safety, air quality water purity. Manufacturers
are looking for purest form of
products due to consumer de-
mand for higher standard prod-
ucts. Global pollution levels are
growing day by day. Efficient
filtration technologies are re-
quired to control pollution lev-
els to optimum. The Technologi-
cal advancements in both, the
product and application segments would create opportunities
for growth in the global market. Technical Textiles has huge
application area in filtration industry. Technical textile has ad-
vantages of simple manufacturing process, less expensive
good strength so today it is widely used into filtration industry.
With the continuous R D and innovations, textile filter indus-
try can grow exponentially!
TECHNICAL TEXTILES FOCUS
TECHNICAL TEXTILES INTO FILTRATION FABRICS

T
exfair 2015 is one of the most important interna-
tional trade fairs for the Indian textile industry
focusing on machinery and spare parts. It was held
at the CODISSIA Trade Fair Complex in Coimbatore, South In-
dia, from 9 to 12 January 2015. Rieter participated with its
prime focus on Rieter Com4® spinning units, the benefits of
original technology spare parts and Rieter’s ELO Service.
Rieter presented models of all 4 end-spinning machines,
technology upgrades and conversions, spare parts kits and the
ELO Service model.
The main objective was to update the industry on the lat-
est developments and unique features of state-of-the-art ma-
chines, Rieter quality standard spares, accessories and servic-
es offered to the industry.
Great interest shown on the Rieter booth
Customers received information about the new products
offered by Rieter. However, the main focus was on the core in-
formation on machinery and spare parts that was conveyed to
visitors.
Rieter’s sales team explained the inherent features of the
entire product range and their benefits for customers. With the
help of a wide range of spare parts, technology parts, upgrades
and conversion kits on display, the team shared information
about the latest developments and enlightened them with ben-
efits and end uses.
The ELO Service model on the booth met with keen inter-
est from customers’ engineering teams, who had good interac-
tion with our ELO team about the preventive model and gath-
ered information supported by some technical questions. The
platform was ideal for obtaining more details with supportive
material such as brochures, leaflets and videos displayed at the
booth.
Rieter believes that this in-depth knowledge will facilitate
communication with contract partners in the spinning indus-
try and develop close interaction with them.
RIETER EXHIBITS TECHNOLOGY PARTS CONVERSIONS AT TEXFAIR INDIA.
BRAND FOCUS
2014 financial year: double-digit sales growth with strong second half of the year –
order intake at the level of sales
Rieter took full advantage of the market dynamics in the 2014 financial year and improved its market share, thanks to suc-
cessful products and extended presence in Asia. The company achieved double-digit sales growth with a particularly strong
performance in the second half of the year. Sales increased by a total of 11% to 1 153.4 million CHF. Orders received
reached the level of sales in the year under review, at 1 146.1 million CHF. Rieter had a backlog of orders in hand of around
730 million CHF at the end of 2014. This means a high level of capacity utilisation until well into the 2015 financial year.
Rieter will publish its full annual financial statements and the annual report for 2014 on March 18, 2015.
CHF million 2014 2013 Change
Change in local
currencies
Orders received 1 146.1 1 259.4 -9% -8%
• Spun Yarn Systems 973.8 1 084.3 -10% -9%
• Premium Textile Components 172.3 175.1 -2% 0%
Sales 1 153.4 1 035.3 11% 13%
• Spun Yarn Systems 980.9 857.8 14% 16%
• Premium Textile Components 172.4 177.5 -3% -1%
Winterthur, February 4, 2015
Dear shareholder:
Today, Rieter is able to offer products at the highest quality lev-
el from all its locations. Thus, the company further improved its
leading position in 2014.
2014 FINANCIAL YEAR: DOUBLE-DIGIT SALES GROWTH WITH STRONG SECOND
HALF OF THE YEAR –ORDER INTAKE AT THE LEVEL OF SALES

LIVA presents D’Designer 2015- a design talent hunt open
to budding fashion designers from hub designers to young
fashion students. D Designer is an unique initiative by Birla
Cellulose – a division The Aditya Birla Group.
In its third year, this one of its kind talent hunt nurtures
young fashion designers and provides them a platform to
showcase their potential in a crucial market such as Gujarat.
This year the event received overwhelming 2000 entries
from across the state. These entries were shortlisted via vari-
ous rounds where the participants were asked to create some
unique and fluid creations using LIVA- a fabric made with natu-
ral fibres from the house of Aditya Birla Group.
Only the best top 10 participants made it to the final round
and displayed their dazzling collection made using LIVA.
The event kicked off with a press conference at Grand
Bhagwati, Surat at 3pm rewarding the efforts of number of de-
signer students who participated. Mr.Manohar Samuel, Presi-
dent, Marketing Business Development, Birla Cellulose ad-
dressed the audience on how this event looks at encouraging
young talents of fashion. The conference was graced by other
eminent dignitaries from the fashion industry; ace designer
Narendra Kumar Ahmed and Mr Subhas Dhawan from F Stu-
dio.
Addressing the audience, Mr.Manohar Samuel, President Mar-
keting Business Development, Birla Cellulose said “This year
the event has received tremendous response. We had three
objectives for this initiative,
‘’1) Encourage design skills of budding designers in Gujarat
to create future leaders in fashion
2) Have these designers work with LIVA – a fluid fabric
made with natural fibres to create innovative cuts
silhouettes for new age Indian consumer
3) Appreciate Surat’s leadership in women’s wear category
and progress alignment with brands consumers, he
added” The gala occasion exhilarated the audience with
dazzling display of various collections aimed to express
fluidity innovatively
The fashion-show witnessed the following LIVA Col-
lections hit the ramp during the D’Designer finale:
1)Delhi Meets Vegas- Fusion wear made fluid with LIVA
2)Life is a beach - Relaxed resort wear with LIVA
3)Light Shadow – Drama of black white in interesting
cuts
4)Red Affairs- Red dress made gracefully glamorous with
LIVA
5)Gujarat Couture – Celebrating Gujarati spirit with LIVA
Speaking on the occasion ace designer Mr.Narendra Kumar
said “This initiative by Birla Cellulose is a great opportunity for
our talented young designers to express their creativity and
garner the experience they require before they leave to pursue
their respective careers. The participants got the opportunity
to work with LIVA – a fluid fabric made with natural fibres and
created unique cuts and silhouettes.”
D’Designer 2015 promised to be a grand event where the
students sparkled and shined through various ensembles.
Liva Accredited Partner Forum - LAPF the elite body
of supply chain partners, who offer Liva fabrics by leverag-
ing innovation, great quality and fast service have welcomed
the event to Surat. LAPF members in Surat have innovated in
fabrics and F-Studio a prominent LAPF partner has showcased
brilliant designs and trends to facilitate coneumsers and the
designers with much needed supplies even in small quantities.
About LIVA
LIVA is a new age fabric made with natural fibres from
Pulp Fibre Business of Aditya Birla Group. It’s is a fluid fabric
that gives a glamorous drape, soft, has shine and is extremely
comfortable. LIVA is made from natural fibers/cellulosic that is
derived from wood pulp. Hence, it gives a beautiful flow to the
garments and enhances ease of movement. It takes the shape
of the body and hence gives you perfect look. It doesn’t tug out
like other stiff fabrics. It is extremely soft and has a great feel-
ing on the skin. It also has a natural shine that makes it look
dressy unlike other fabrics. And finally since it is natural, it has
great breathability and it is extremely comfortable to wear.
HUNT FOR THE MOST FLUID DESIGNER AT LIVA D’DESIGNER 2014- 2015 @SURAT
BRAND FOCUS
BIRLA CELLULOSE RECOGNIZES YOUNG DESIGNERS IN THE STATE

Abstract
Textiles used in the high risk games playa major role as
they perform three major functions. First, they are used as
impact protective clothing to absorb the energy of theimpact
event so that the body segment being protected is either not
damaged or,if damaged, the level of damage is acceptable.
Secondly, they are used to perform that particular game and
finally textile materials provide comfort to the wearer. A high
risk textile used in various sport supports helps the ath-
letes to better performance. The aim of this paper is to give
an overview on the textiles which are involved in the high risk
games such as boxing, fencing, Judo, wrestling etc.
Keywords: Sport Textiles, Classifications, High risk games
1. Introduction:
Worldwide there is an increased interest in the nontradi-
tional sports activities like high risk games adventure sports
particularly among the ladies and youths. Among the Indians,
high risk games adventure sports activities are still at a na-
scent stage, but the country is a hub for adventure sports for
tourists. With the increase in living standard and change in
life style, the high risk games adventure sports will grow in
India. In addition, the manufacturing activities of textiles for
sports including high risk games adventure sports are shift-
ing from the developed countries to the developing countries.
The Indian entrepreneurs can capitalize this opportunity to
business. Textile materials are used in all sports including
high risk games adventure sports. There are no sports with-
out textiles. In recent years, international sports and activity
wear market has become extremely dynamic. The UK market
for sportswear has grown to more than US 7.8 billion in 2012
and will grow further in future. For 2014 the world sports
clothing and footwear market is expected to reach a total size
of almost US 17.0 billion of which Western Europe is likely
to represent 20%, North America 22%, Japan and South Ko-
rea 12% while rest of the world would be 40%. In addition,
there is additional demand of about US 20 billion for luggage
components, camping equipment, sports equipment etc. To
understand the scale of development of textiles in sports, one
must appreciate the tremendous development of sport itself.
A few decades back, sport textiles was limited and there were
few like sking gloves, specialized foot wear and very limited
protective coverings for knees and elbows. There were no
special insert pads for shorts, no gel moulding saddles, no
elastane riding shorts to reduce muscle fatigue [1-6].
Textile materials are used in all sports as sportswear, as
sports equipment and sports footwear. The strong rise in par-
ticipation in professional and outdoor sport has alsobeen an
important factor responsible for the development trends in
consumption of textiles in sport. Now a day, the discrepancy
of performance among competitive athletes is getting smaller
and smaller. Therefore wearing high tech textile could help to
get advantage over competitors[6, 7].
Sportech falls in one of the twelve categories of technical
textiles. Further, Sport textiles can be categorized asfollows:
(I) Sports Wear – Apparels or Special Clothing systems
for comfort, compatibility and performance of the sports
person by improved functional characteristics like moisture
management, soil guard, electrometric, antimicrobial proper-
ties, ease of use, etc.
(II) Sports Goods equipments–These are the active
sport Items for specific sport like inflatable balls for volley
ball, football and rugby, hockey sticks, golf club, etc.
(III) Sports Accessories– Efficient and durable sporting
items providing designated playing conditions for the target-
ed sports, viz. Artificial turfs, rings, etc.
Textiles used in the high risk games provideprotectionto
the wearer by absorbing the energy of theimpact as well as
they are used to perform that particular game with comfort
property.[5]
2. Various high risk games:
There are following games mentioned below which can
be categorized as high risk:Boxing,Fencing,Judo, Wrestling,
Taekwondo, Weight lifting, Hot air Ballooning, Ropes for para-
gliding mountaineering.
2.1 Boxing: Boxing is
a combat sport in which two
people engage in a contest of
strength, speed, reflexes, en-
durance, and will, by throw-
ing punches with gloved
hands against each other.
There are three main styles in
boxing: out-fighter (“boxer”),
brawler (or “slugger”),and
TEXTILES FOR HIGH RISK SPORTS
Scientists, Wool Research Association, Thane, Maharashtra, India
(Linked to Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India)
TECHNICAL TEXTILESREVIEWED ARTICLE
Mayur Basuk Amit Sengupta
*** This Article is Reviewed by Dr.S.K. Chattopadhyay, Principal Scientist Head MPD, CIRCOT

In-fighter (“swarmer”). These styles may be divided into
several special subgroups, such as counter puncher, etc. The
main philosophy of the styles is, that each style has an advan-
tage over one, but disadvantage over the other one.
2.1.1 Boxing Equipments: Boxing equipmentsconsist of
Boxing Gloves, Boxing Punching Gloves, Boxing Head Guards,
Boxing Punching Pads, Abdominal Guard, Speed Ball, Punch-
ing Bag etc.
Boxing equipments are made of PU laminated / PVC
coated fabrics, woven polyester fabric/ Nylon fabric. PU/PVC
coated fabrics are the most commonly used fabrics.
Boxing gloves: Boxing gloves are cushioned gloves that
fighters wear on their hands during boxing matches. The term
also refers to gloves used in training, though these often dif-
fer from competition gloves.
Modern boxing gloves were
developed to protect the
hands of the striker dur-
ing a boxing match though
specialized gloves are now
available for competitions,
sparring practice and other
types of training. The use of
modern boxing gloves typi-
cally results in fewer super-
Item Material Requirements
Glove
body
Leather Conforming to IS : 5597-l 970 ‘Specification for leatherfor boxing gloves’.
It shall be fat lacquered or oiledor both and the grain side shall be smooth
finished.The recommended thickness is 0’7 to 1’0 mm in thefinished stage.
Padding a) horse hair In hygienic condition, and curled physically or chemically before stuffing.
b) Coarse cotton Well carded, clean, dry and reasonably free from seeds and other extra-
neous matters.
Elastic
tape
Silken elastic tape/ Having width between 20 to 25 mm and minimum elongation of 250 per-
cent when stretched in anormal way.
Lining Khaki cotton drill The yarn used in the manufacture of drill cloth shall besatisfactory in
evenness and reasonably free fromspinning defects. The cloth shall be 3 shaft
2/lwarp faced twill weave. The cloth when visuallyexamined shall be rea-
sonably free from spinning,weaving and processing defects. The drill shall
alsogenerally comply with the requirements of IS: J77-1977 ‘Specification for
cotton drills (thirdrevision) ‘.
Sewing
thread
Polyamide/cotton cor0esp=-un Tkt - 50 Nominal count and construction-Nm 50/2, Z/Finishing twist
Finish - Glace Single thread breaking load - 2’6 kgf.
2.2 Fencing: Fencing is the martial art of fighting with blades. The most common version of fenc-
ing today, also called olympicfencing or competitive fencing.Traditionally, the fencers’ uniform is white
(black for instructors). This may be due to the occasional pre-electric practice of covering the point of
the weapon in dye, soot, or colored chalk in order to make it easier for the referee to determine the
placing of the touches.
Techniques or movements in fencing can be divided into two categories: offensive and quickly de-
ficial facial injuries but does not reduce the risk of brain dam-
age for participants, and may even increase it because of the
ability to throw stronger punches to the head without hurting
the hands.
Modern boxing gloves started showing up towards end of
the 90’s. Over ten years of engineering and testing by some
of the biggest boxing manufacturers and sport names have
helped create safe, durable and long lasting equipment. Mod-
ern boxing gloves include breathable mesh palm technology
with Velcro and 100% complete leather backed stitching, with
some also including suspension cushioning and re-enforced
padding for the boxer. The UK use AIBA to approve the new
design of gloves including the 12oz and 14oz and 16oz weight
categories to coincide with the amount of leather and support
boxers can use in fights.
Gloves used in amateur boxing are frequently red or blue,
with a white “scoring area” to help judges more easily see
and record points. Common weights for gloves in the United
States are sixteen, twelve and eight ounces.
Manufacturing of boxing gloves in India is done mostly
by small scale industries. These industries are labour inten-
sive and are generally clustered together. The key clusters for
manufacturing of gloves are located at Meerut.Meerut excel-
ling in the Cricket and boxing sports goods industry [6].
Table 1: Materials for the Manufacture of Boxing
Gloves[8]
TECHNICAL TEXTILES

fensive. Some techniques can fall into both categories (e.g. the
beat). Certain techniques are used offensively, with the pur-
pose of landing a hit on your opponent while holding the right
of way (foil and sabre). Others are used defensively, to protect
against a hit or obtain the right of way [9, 10].
2.2.1 Protective clothing for Fencing: Fencing outfits
are made of tough cotton or nylon. Kevlar was added to top
level uniform pieces (jacket, breeches, underarm protector,
lame(a type of fabric woven or knit with thin ribbons of me-
tallic yarns), and the bib of the mask) following the Smirnov
incident at the 1982 World Championships in Rome. However,
Kevlar breaks down in chlorine and UV light, complicating the
cleaning process.
In recent years other ballistic fabrics, such as Dyneema,
have been developed that resist puncture and which do not
have Kevlar’s issues. FIE rules state that the tournament out-
fits must be made of fabric that resists a force of 800 new-
tons (180 lbf) and that the mask bib must resist double that
amount [9].
The complete fencing kit includes:
€ Form-fitting jacket with strap (croissard) which
goes between the legs.
€ In sabre fencing, jackets that are cut along the
waist.
€ A small gorget of folded fabric is sewn in around
the collar to prevent an opponent’s blade from slipping
under the mask and along the jacket upwards towards the
neck.
€ Plastron, an underarm protector, which goes un-
derneath the jacket and provides double protection on the
sword arm side and upper arm. There is no seam under the
arm, which would line up with the jacket seam and provide
a weak spot.
€ One glove for the weapon arm with a gauntletthat
prevents blades from going up the sleeve and causing inju-
ry, as well as protecting the hand and providing a good grip.
€ Breeches or knickers which are a pair of short trou-
sersthat end just below the knee. The breeches are required
to have 10 cm of overlap with the jacket. Most are equipped
with suspenders (braces).
€ Knee-length or thigh high socks which cover knee
and thighs.
€ Shoes with flat soles and reinforcement on the in-
side of the back foot and heel of front foot, to prevent wear
from lunging.
€ Mask, including a bib which protects the neck. The
mask can usually support 12 kilograms (26 lb) on the metal
mesh and 350 newtons (79 lbf) of penetration resistance on
the bib. FIE regulations dictate that masks must withstand
25 kilograms (55 lb) on the mesh and 1,600 newtons (360
lbf) on the bib. Some modern masks have a see-through vi-
sor in the front of the mask. These have been used at high
level competitions (World Championships etc.), however,
they are currently banned in foil and épée by the FIE, fol-
lowing a 2009 incident in which a visor was pierced during
the European Junior Championship competition. There are
foil, saber, and three-weapon masks.
€ Plastic chest protector, mandatory for females.
While male versions of the chest protector are also avail-
able, they were, until recently, primarily worn by instruc-
tors, who are hit far more often during training than their
students. These are increasingly popular in foil, as the hard
surface increases the likelihood that a hit fails to register, as
well as with youth competitors.
€ Lame is a layer of electrically conductive material
worn over the fencing jacket that entirely covers the valid
target area. It is worn only in foil and sabre, and serves to
distinguish hits on target from those that are off-target. In
épée, the entire body is a target, so it is not necessary to
have a lamé. In foil the lamé is sleeveless, while in sabre the
lamé has sleeves and ends in a straight line across the waist.
A body cord is necessary to register scoring: it attaches to
the weapon and runs inside the jacket sleeve, then down the
back and out to the scoring box. In sabre and foil the body
cord connects to the lamé in order to create a circuit to the
TECHNICAL TEXTILES

scoring box.
€ Fencing masters often choose a heavier protective
jacket, usually reinforced by plastic foam to cushion the
numerous hits an instructor has to endure. Sometimes in
practice, masters wear a protective sleeve or a leg leather to
protect their fencing arm or leg.
2.3Judo:: Judo is a mod-
ern martial art, combat and
Olympic sport created in Ja-
pan in 1882 by Jigoro Kano
Its most prominent feature
is its competitive element,
where the objective is to ei-
ther throw or takedown an
opponent to the ground, immobilize or otherwise subdue an
opponent with a pin, or force an opponent to submit with a
joint lock or a choke. Strikes and thrusts by hands and feet as
well as weapons defenses are a part of judo, but only in pre-
arranged forms and are not allowed in judo competition or
free practice. A judo practitioner is called a judoka.
Jacket Plastron
Breeches or Knickers Gloves Mask
2.3.1 Judo uniform: Judo practitioners traditionally
wear white uniforms called keikogi practice clothing or judo-
gi judo clothing.Sometimes abbreviated in the west as “gi”. It
comprises a heavy cotton kimono-like jacket called an uwagi,
similar to traditional hanten, workers jackets fastened by an
obi, belt, coloured to indicate rank, and cotton draw-string zu-
bon, trousers. Early examples of keikogi had short sleeves and
trouser legs and the modern long-sleeved judogi was adopt
ed in 1906.
The modern use of the blue judogi for high level com-
petition was first suggested by Anton Geesink at the 1986
Maastricht IJF DC Meeting. For competition, a blue judogi is
worn by one of the two competitors for ease of distinction by
judges, referees, and spectators. In Japan, both judoka use a
white judogi and the traditional red obi (based on the colors
of the Japanese flag) is affixed to the belt of one competitor.
Outside Japan, a colored obi may also be used for convenience
in minor competitions, the blue judogi only being mandatory
at the regional or higher levels, depending on organization.
Japanese practitioners and traditionalists tend to look down
on the use of blue because of the fact that judo is considered a
pure sport, and replacing the pure white judogi for the impure
blue, is an offense.
For events organized under the auspices of the Interna-
tional judo Federation (IJF), judogi have to bear the IJF Official
Logo Mark Label. This label demonstrates that the judogi has
passed a number of quality control tests to ensure it conforms
to construction regulations ensuring it is not too stiff, flexible,
rigid or slippery to allow the opponent to grip or to perform
techniques [11].
Official Suppliers of Judo Uniform as per International
judo federation are as follows:
Green Hill GmbH, SFJAM - NORIS FRANCE. Adidas Dou-
ble-D Martial Arts, Mizuno Corporation, Hayakawa Textile
Industries Co., Ltd.,Budo Sport AG, Essimo BV,MATSURU B.V.,
Fighting Films International LLP, BasicItalia con socio uni-
co, Danrho Kwon KG, Dao Korea, Taishan Sports Equipment
Group Co., Ltd., SFJAM - NORIS FRANCE, BSW GmbH, AGGLO-
REX B.V.B.A, Green Hill GmbH, Swain Sports a Division of Dol-
lamur LP, TROCELLEN Italia S.P.A [12].
Detailed Check Results Yes No

A.
Fabric/Material
JACKET
1 FiberCotton 70 %, Chemical fibers allowed up to 30 %, Good hand‐feel ✔
2 Upper jacket fabric strength in vertical direction when in use: 2200 N
This is additional rule to the IJF Guidance
(JIS L 1096, 8.1.2 Breaking Strength, raveled strip, sample width: 5 cm)
✔
3 Upper jacket fabric (Sashiko part) weight: 700–1000 g/m2
(after
wash/dry)
✔
4 Color：White: natural cotton, Blue: judgment by Pantone scale after
wash/dry [18‐4051TCX(TPX) – 18‐4039TCX(TPX), or 285M – 286M]
✔
5 Upper: double SashikoWeave, Lower: Plain, or Twill with diamond
pattern
✔
6
Table 2.Quality parameters required for Judo Uniform as per International Judo Federation (IJF) [11]
TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Detailed Check Results Yes No

A.
Fabric/Material
JACKET
1 FiberCotton 70 %, Chemical fibers allowed up to 30 %, Good hand‐feel ✔
2 Upper jacket fabric strength in vertical direction when in use: 2200 N
This is additional rule to the IJF Guidance
(JIS L 1096, 8.1.2 Breaking Strength, raveled strip, sample width: 5 cm)
✔
3 Upper jacket fabric (Sashiko part) weight: 700–1000 g/m2
(after
wash/dry)
✔
✔
5 Upper: double SashikoWeave, Lower: Plain, or Twill with diamond
pattern
✔
6 Float number of Sashiko: 4 to 5 / inch（after wash/dry） ✔
7 Warp/weft Yarn Count and Density for Sashiko fabric (after wash/dry) ✔
B.
Fabric/Material
TROUSERS
1 Fiber：Cotton 70 %, Chemical fibers allowed up to 30 %, Good hand‐
feel
✔
✔

C. Sewing/
Fabrication
  JACKET
1 Reverse use of the fabric is not allowed. ✔
2 Sashiko lines (warp line) must be horizontal when wearing jacket. ✔
3 Upper Sashiko fabric part must be 50－55 % of total length of the
jacket
✔
4 Stitches allowed only for back joint, both sleeves, and both body sides
in upper Sashiko part. (except joint of upper and lower jacket)
✔
5 Collar : Twill weave, width: 4 – 5 cm with 5‐row stitch (4‐row for zigzag)
Inside material of collar must not be exposed outside.
✔
6 Collar thickness: No more than 1cm（Except back joint part, if
applicable）
✔
7 Collar weave: Twill, Construction according to Guidance c) (1) A, B, C, D ✔
8 Collar Hardness Test:  within 4.0 cm (after wash/dry, weight 10 kg) ✔
9 Collar must be easily folded vertically into two at chest‐pad inserted
place.
✔
10 Sleeve cuff width: within 3 cm ✔
11 Lower side of sleeves must be seamed by rolled seam. ✔
12 Reinforcement tape（except side slit）: within 3cm wide, cotton thin
fabric, plain or twill, up to 3‐row stitch
✔
13 Jacket back joint width: within 3 cm（ifapplicable）Reinforcement not
allowed
✔
14 Shoulder pad：sameSashiko fabric, up to 5–row stitch, within 1/3
back‐body
✔
15 Chest pad: same Sashiko fabric, one half‐oval shaped, up to 5–row
stitch,
The length must be about 1/4 of back body hip‐joint length.
✔
16 Overlap of shoulder pad and chest pad: within 5cm ✔
17 Armpit pad：Oval, 5 to 8‐row stitch, same Sashiko fabric, plain, or twill ✔
Table 2.Quality parameters required for Judo Uniform as per International Judo Federation (IJF) [11]
18 Reinforcement tape for both side slit: cotton plain or twill to cover slit
edge
Side slit length is 1/2 to 2/3 of the lower jacket. One back slit not
allowed.
✔
19 A reinforcement fabric for above slit‐ends allowed: within 100 cm2
✔

D. Sewing/
Fabrication
TROUSERS
2 Knee pad allowed: same fabric, on backside, below lower part of crotch ✔
3 Waist string needed: same fabric, rubber band not allowed, 1 or 2
string loops
✔
4 Reinforcement fabric for both side slit allowed: same fabric on the
backside
✔
5 Gusset must be stitched onto the crotch part. ✔
6 Trouser cuff: within 3 cm wide, reinforcement tape allowed ✔
7 Reinforcement tape for cuff: within 3cm wide, cotton thin fabric, plain
or twill, up to 3‐row stitch
✔
1 Outer‐face fabric must be 100 % cotton. Belt must be sturdy and not be ✔
TECHNICAL TEXTILES

called jogyonim. The person’s seniority in the dojang is not
what distinguishes their title, but rather it is the degree, or
dan, of black belt [14, 15].
2.6. Weightlifting: Weightlifting is an athletic discipline
in the modern Olympics in which the athlete attempts a maxi-
mum-weight single lift of a barbell loaded with weight plates.
The two competition lifts in order are the snatch and the clean
and jerk. Each weightlifter receives three attempts in each,
and the combined total of the highest two successful lifts
determines the overall result within a bodyweight category.
Bodyweight categories are different for women and men. A
lifter who fails to complete at least one successful snatch and
one successful clean and jerk also fails to total, and therefore
receives an “incomplete” entry for the competition. The clean
and press was once a competition lift, but was discontinued
due to difficulties in judging proper form.
The sport is controlled by the International Weightlifting
Federation (IWF). Based in Budapest, it was founded in 1905.
Athletes compete in a division determined by their body
mass. There are eight male divisions and seven female divi-
sions since 1998 [9, 16].
Men’s weight classes:56 kg (123 lb), 62 kg (137 lb), 69
kg (152 lb), 77 kg (170 lb), 85 kg (187 lb), 94 kg (207 lb), 105
kg (231 lb) and over 105 kg;
Women’s weight classes:48 kg (106 lb), 53 kg (117 lb),
58 kg (128 lb), 63 kg (139 lb), 69 kg (152 lb), 75 kg (165 lb),
and over 75 kg.
2.6.1 Weightlifting belts:Weightlifting belts are special-
ly designed to support the back during weightlifting/weight
training. They create a rigid wall around the waist and lower
back, providing bio-feedback to our body, promoting cor-
rect body alignment when lifting. Back injuries can happen
these belts are not used. Weightlifting belt encourages good
2.4. Wrestling: Wrestling is a combat sport involving
grappling type techniques such as clinches fighting, throws
and takedowns, joint locks, pins and other grappling holds.
A wrestling bout is a physical competition, between two (oc-
casionally more) competitors or sparring partners, who at-
tempt to gain and maintain a superior position. There are a
wide range of styles with varying rules with both traditional
historic and modern styles. Wrestling techniques have been
incorporated into other martial arts as well as military hand-
to-hand combat systems [9].
2.5. Taekwondo:Traditional taekwondo typically refers
to the martial art as it was established in the 1950s and 1960s
in the South Korean military and in various civilian organi-
zations, including schools and universities. In particular, the
names and symbolism of the both the traditional patterns and
the newer poomsae often refer to elements of Korean history,
culture and religious philosophy. This symbolism is replicated
in the Korean flag.Taekwondo combines combat and self-de-
fense techniques with sport and exercise [9, 13].
Uniform : A taekwondo practitioner typically wears a
uniform (dobok), often white but sometimes black (or other
colors), with a belt (dee) tied around the waist. There are at
least three major styles of dobok, with the most obvious dif-
ferences being in the style of jacket: (1) the cross-over front
jacket that resembles traditional Asian clothing, (2) the V-
neck jacket (no cross-over) typically worn by WTF practitio-
ners, and (3) the vertical-closing front jacket (no cross-over)
typically worn by ITF practitioners. The belt color and any
insignia thereon indicate the student’s rank. In general, the
darker the color, the higher the rank. The school or place
where instruction is given is called the dojang. The grand-
master of the dojang is called a gwanjangnim; the master (se-
nior instructor or head of dojang) is called sabeomnim; the
instructor is called gyosannim; and the assistant instructor is
19 A reinforcement fabric for above slit‐ends allowed: within 100 cm2
✔

D. Sewing/
Fabrication
TROUSERS
2 Knee pad allowed: same fabric, on backside, below lower part of crotch ✔
3 Waist string needed: same fabric, rubber band not allowed, 1 or 2
string loops
✔
4 Reinforcement fabric for both side slit allowed: same fabric on the
backside
✔
5 Gusset must be stitched onto the crotch part. ✔
6 Trouser cuff: within 3 cm wide, reinforcement tape allowed ✔
7 Reinforcement tape for cuff: within 3cm wide, cotton thin fabric, plain
or twill, up to 3‐row stitch
✔

E. Belt
1 Outer‐face fabric must be 100 % cotton. Belt must be sturdy and not be
easily loosen or broken. But the belt must have adequate flexibility and
softness
✔
2 Main core must be non‐woven fabric. (rubbers or elastics not allowed) ✔
3 Reinforcement fabric must be cotton plain or twill using yarn count
20/1 or finer.
✔
4 Sub‐core (optional), if used, must be the same material as
reinforcement.
✔
5 Belt width must be 4 cm to 5 cm ✔
6 Stitch: 8 to 13 rows of straight stitches. ✔
7 When pushing belt by hand from the both ends toward knot, the belt
knot must not be loosening.
✔

TECHNICAL TEXTILES

FEBRUARY 2015

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FEBRUARY 2015