This document provides information about the author's 3-month internship at Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. It includes an acknowledgement, executive summary, table of contents, and initial chapters covering the company's history and overview, organizational structure, machine descriptions, raw materials, and utility services. The author observed various production departments and aims to provide insights into Turag's high-quality garment manufacturing processes and its ability to fulfill special requirements from international buyers.

1. 1
(A Constituent College of the University of Dhaka)
Industrial Attachment
At
Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd.
South Panishail, Zirani Bazar,
Gazipur, Dhaka
Course Title: Industrial Attachment
Course Code: TE-4209
Submitted By:
Md. Nazmul Haque
ID-68/17
Dept. of Apparel Manufacturing
Submitted To:
Md. Almamun Rony
Lecturer
Dept. of Apparel Manufacturing
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College
Duration: 17st January to 18st March, 2021.
SHYAMOLI TEXTILE ENGINEERING COLLEGE

2. 2
Acknowledgement
All praises are for almighty Allah that has bestowed upon human being the crown of
creation and has endowed him with knowledge and wisdom. At first I would like to thank Almighty
Allah for giving me Strength to complete this report by this short period of time.
Then I would like to thanks & grateful our honorable supervisor Sir, Md. Almamun Rony,
Lecturer, Dept. Of Apparel Manufacturing, Shyamoli Textile Engineerimg College. who
encourages me to prepare this report properly. Really it’s a good way to increase my efficiency,
skill & knowledge about the production, productivity & productivity improvement by watching
different department of the organization.
I would also like to thank Riad Ahmed, Asst. Manager (R&D), Turag Garments &
Hosiery Mills Ltd. Then thanks to my friends who also acted attentively and responsibly together
and all the members of every departments of Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. they have
been a real help in the time of my internship.

3. 3
Executive Summary
The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those countries for
producing their apparel products where different types of mills have established as a one stop
source for the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer’s expectation by developing and
providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price,
Safety & Environmental impact. And also assure complete compliance with international
quality standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working
condition/standards.
In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile Industry those are producing high quality
textile and apparel product. Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. Is one of them. Turag
Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. Is Garments Manufacturer & Exporter, having all state of the art
facilities with annual turnover Tk. 15,00,00,000to 20,00,00,000. They have Different types of
Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Japan, Taiwan, U.K, USA,
Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production rate finished garments are produced
per day. The production is controlled by skill persons. All of the decision makers of production
sector in. Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd is not textiles graduates. Finishing is well
branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international
market like U.K, France, Germany, Belgium, and U.S.A. They follow all the system for their
machines maintenance so production cannot hamper.
In this report, I have tried to give some information about Turag Garments & Hosiery
Mills Ltd. And I have observed that Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. Produced high
quality garment and fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by according
different internationally recommended standard method.

4. 4
Contents
Acknowledgement .......................................................................................................................... 2
Executive Summary........................................................................................................................ 3
CHAPTER-I.................................................................................................................................. 11
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY .......................................................................................................... 11
1.1 introduction ......................................................................................................................... 11
1.1.1 History of the factory ....................................................................................................... 11
1.1.2 General information ......................................................................................................... 12
1.1.3 Founder& Directors.......................................................................................................... 12
1.1.4 Layout............................................................................................................................... 13
1.1.5 Turag Compliance at a glance.......................................................................................... 14
1.1.6 Major Buyers logo............................................................................................................ 14
1.1.7 Mission and vision ........................................................................................................... 15
2.Organogram ............................................................................................................................... 16
2.1 Section-wise manpower .................................................................................................. 16
2.1.1 Management Medium.................................................................................................. 17
2.1.2 Management system.................................................................................................... 17
2.1.3 Duties & responsibilities of production officer ............................................................ 17
2.1.4 Duties & responsibilities of senior production officer ................................................. 17
2.1.5 Duties & responsibilities of GM (production) .............................................................. 18
Chapter-III..................................................................................................................................... 19
Machine Description..................................................................................................................... 19
3.0 No. of Machine:................................................................................................................... 19
3.1Cutting Section:.................................................................................................................... 19
3.1.1 Sewing Section:................................................................................................................ 19
3.1.2 Bar-tack Section:.............................................................................................................. 19
3.1.3 Finishing Section:............................................................................................................. 20
3.2 Main specification:.............................................................................................................. 20
3.3 Sewing Machine types ........................................................................................................ 20
3.3.1 Manually Operated sewing machine............................................................................ 21
3.3.2 Electrically Operated sewing machine ......................................................................... 21

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3.4 Lock Stitching M/c:............................................................................................................. 22
3.5 Bar Tack M/c:...................................................................................................................... 22
3.6 Kansai M/c: ......................................................................................................................... 22
3.7 Feed of the Arm m/c: .......................................................................................................... 23
3.8 Single Needle Chain stitching m/c [1 needle 1 lopper 2 thread]:........................................ 23
3.9 Double Needle Chain stitching m/c [2 needle 2 lopper 4 threads]: .................................... 23
3.10Button Hole M/C:............................................................................................................... 24
3.11 Button Attaching m/c:....................................................................................................... 24
3.12 Stitching m/c: .................................................................................................................... 24
3.13 Zigzag Stitching M/C:....................................................................................................... 24
3.14 Over lock m/c:................................................................................................................... 25
CHAPTER –4 ............................................................................................................................... 26
Raw materials................................................................................................................................ 26
4.1 Types of Raw Materials: ..................................................................................................... 26
4.1.1 Yarn:.............................................................................................................................. 26
4.1.2 Grey Fabrics:................................................................................................................. 27
4.1.3 Dyes .............................................................................................................................. 27
4.1.4 Chemicals...................................................................................................................... 29
2.1 Accessories: ..................................................................................................................... 30
Chapter: 5...................................................................................................................................... 31
DESCRIPTION OF THE ATTACHMENT ................................................................................. 31
5.1 Knitting Section................................................................................................................... 31
5.1.1 Organogram...................................................................................................................... 31
5.1.1 Knitting.......................................................................................................................... 32
5.1.2 Products made in Turag’s knitting section ................................................................... 32
5.1.3 KNITTING Process Sequence......................................................................................... 32
5..1.4 Grey fabric sends to batching section ......................................................................... 33
5.1.5 Knitting machine Details:.............................................................................................. 33
5.1.6 List of Machines:........................................................................................................... 33
5.1.7 Production PARAMETERS:........................................................................................ 34
5.1.8 Some Figure In Knitting SECTION (M/C, Fabric) ........................................................... 34

6. 6
5.1.9 Description of Machine parts:...................................................................................... 35
5.1.10 Knitting Faults & Remedies ........................................................................................ 42
5.1.11 Hole Mark ................................................................................................................... 42
5.1.12 b) Needle Mark........................................................................................................... 42
5.1.13 c) Sinker Mark................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.1.14 d) Star ............................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.1.15 e) Drop Stitches ........................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.2 DYEING Lab ...................................................................................................................... 43
5.2.1 Organogram.................................................................................................................. 43
52.2 Sequence of operation .................................................................................................. 43
5.2.3 Recipe formulation:...................................................................................................... 44
5.2.4 Flow chart of recipe formulation.................................................................................. 44
5.2.5 Cotton Dyes in dyeing lab............................................................................................. 44
5.2.6 Recommended Salt & Soda Concentration.................................................................. 45
5.2.7 Physical section............................................................................................................. 46
5.2.8 Different types of Test.................................................................................................. 47
5.2.9 ISO 105 C06: Instruments:........................................................................................... 48
5.2.10 For ISO 105 C06 A2S: .................................................................................................. 49
5.2.12 For ISO 105 C06 C2S: .................................................................................................. 50
5.3 Batch section ....................................................................................................................... 50
5.3.1 Function or purpose of the batch:................................................................................ 51
5.4 Knit Dyeing Section............................................................................................................ 52
5.4.1 Organogram.................................................................................................................. 52
5.4.2 Machine Details............................................................................................................ 53
5.4.3 Different Types of Dyeing Process................................................................................ 54
5.4.4 Description of Production Process of Cotton............................................................... 55
5.4.5 Cotton scouring & bleaching Process:.......................................................................... 55
5.4.6 Process of Cotton whitening (white dyeing) ................................................................ 56
5.4.7 Process Sequence:........................................................................................................ 56
5.4.8 Chemicals:..................................................................................................................... 58

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5.5 Knit Dye Finishing SectION............................................................................................... 59
5.5.1 Machine Details............................................................................................................ 59
5.5.2 Flowchart of finishing & Machine Function ................................................................. 60
5.5.3 Machine Function:........................................................................................................ 60
5.5.4 Dryer:............................................................................................................................ 61
5.5.5 Stanter: ......................................................................................................................... 62
5.5.6 Finishing Faults and their remedies.............................................................................. 62
5.6 Garments Division............................................................................................................... 63
5.6.1 Organogram.................................................................................................................. 64
5.7 Sample Section.................................................................................................................... 64
5.7.1 Organogram.................................................................................................................. 64
7.1.2 Layout ........................................................................................................................... 65
7.1.3 Sample Making Procedure............................................................................................ 65
7.1.4 Types of Sample............................................................................................................ 66
7.1.5 Briefly Discuss............................................................................................................... 66
5.8 Cutting Section.................................................................................................................... 68
5.8.1 Layout ........................................................................................................................... 68
5.8.2 Cutting machineries in Turag........................................................................................ 68
5.8.3 Machine quantity in Turag ........................................................................................... 68
5.8.4 Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:......... Error! Bookmark not defined.
5.8.5 Each process of garments cutting flow chart is discussed shortly in the below table: 70
5.8.6 RELAXATION & NO OF PLY CHART FOR CUTTING......................................................... 71
5.8.7 Marker ratio calculation:.............................................................................................. 71
5.8.8 Marker efficiency.......................................................................................................... 72
5.9 PRINTING SeCTION......................................................................................................... 73
5.9.1 Printing ......................................................................................................................... 73
5.9.2 Types of Printing:.......................................................................................................... 73
5.9.3 List of Machines:........................................................................................................... 74
5.9.4 Work flow diagram of printing Section: ....................................................................... 74
5.9.5 Used Chemical in Printing Section:............................................................................... 75

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5.9.6 Automating Printing machine: ..................................................................................... 75
5.10 Sewing Section.................................................................................................................. 76
5.10.1 Organogram:............................................................................................................... 76
5.10.2 Machine Details in Sewing.......................................................................................... 76
5.10.3 Sewing Production Flow Chart: .................................................................................. 77
5.10.4 Sewing Procedure:...................................................................................................... 78
5.10.5 Sewing sequence of T- shirt........................................................................................ 79
5.10.6 Sewing sequence of T- shirt(Long sleeve) .................................................................. 80
5.10.7 Sewing sequence of polo shirt.................................................................................... 81
5.10.8 Features of Basic Sewing Machine:............................................................................ 83
5.10.9 Comparative Studies between Different Types of Stitches: ...................................... 83
5.10.10 Some sewing defects................................................................................................ 84
5.11 FINISHING Section.......................................................................................................... 85
5.11.1 Organogram:............................................................................................................... 86
5.11.2 Finishing layout........................................................................................................... 86
5.12Industrial Engineering (IE)................................................................................................. 87
5.12.1 Organogram:.............................................................................................................. 87
5.12.2 Function of the Department:...................................................................................... 87
5.12.3 Detail activities of work study: ................................................................................... 87
5.12.4 Important Terms in Work Measurement:.................................................................. 88
5.13 Merchandising section....................................................................................................... 89
5.13.1 Basic Working Procedure of the Department: ........................................................... 90
5.13.2 Working Procedure of Merchandising Department:.................................................. 90
5.13.3 A Merchandiser should have...................................................................................... 90
5.13.4 Responsibilities of a merchandiser:............................................................................ 91
5.13.5 Daily activities of a merchandiser: ............................................................................. 91
5.13.6 Weeklyactivities of merchandiser: ........................................................................... 92
5.13.7 Monthly activities of a merchandiser:........................................................................ 92
5.13.8 Yearly activities of a merchandiser: ........................................................................... 92
5.13.9 Formula used for consumption:................................................................................. 92

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Chapter- 6...................................................................................................................................... 93
Utility Services.............................................................................................................................. 93
6.1 Available Utility Facilities:................................................................................................. 93
6.1.1 Electricity: ..................................................................................................................... 93
6.1.2 Gas:............................................................................................................................... 93
6.1.3 Generator: .................................................................................................................... 93
6.1.4 Water:........................................................................................................................... 94
6.1.5 Compressor:.................................................................................................................. 94
6.6 Utility cost:....................................................................................................................... 94
6.1.1Effluent Treatment plant(ETP).......................................................................................... 95
6.1.1.1 Chemical List for (E.T.P)............................................................................................. 95
6.1.1.2 Process of ETP:........................................................................................................... 95
Chapter- 7...................................................................................................................................... 96
Maintenance.................................................................................................................................. 96
7.1.1 Maintenance ..................................................................................................................... 96
7.1.2 Maintenance types:........................................................................................................... 96
7.1.3Preventive maintenance: ................................................................................................... 96
Break down maintenance:............................................................................................................. 96
Routine maintenance:.................................................................................................................... 97
7.2.1 Maintenance procedure:................................................................................................... 97
7.2.2 Check list for different parts:........................................................................................ 97
7.3 Maintenance tools and their functions: ............................................................................... 98
Chapter -8...................................................................................................................................... 99
Store &Inventory Control ............................................................................................................. 99
8.1 Store Organogram: .............................................................................................................. 99
8.2 Store department working procedure:............................................................................... 100
8.3 Frequency Of Inventory Update........................................................................................ 100
8.4 Inventory Control System For Raw Materials .................................................................. 101
8.4.1 Dye store & other chemicals store ........................................................................ 101
8.4.2 Grey fabric store  .................................................................................................... 101
8.5 Inventory Control System For Finished Fabric................................................................. 101
8.6 Inventory Control System For Spare Parts........................................................................ 101

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11. 11
CHAPTER-I
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
1.1 INTRODUCTION
Bangladesh, a country of 160 million people. Once she was the proud producer of world
famous muslin fabric. Bangladesh was the best in producing muslin. Our muslin was world
famous form the beginning of the 17th
century, however history fades away like many other
things we lost our capability of muslin production. Then came jute the golden fiber, contributed a
lot to our economy. Form the late 70s Bangladesh started producing and exporting ready-made
garments to Europe. Now we are one of the leading suppliers of ready-made garments of the
world.
RMG, the large scale production of readymade garments is a relatively new phenomenon
in Bangladesh. The hundred percent export-oriented RMG industry experienced phenomenal
growth over the years. In 1978, there were only 9 export- oriented garment manufacturing units,
which generated export earnings of hardly one million dollar. Some of these units were very
small and produced garments for both domestic and export markets. Within a short period,
Bangladeshi entrepreneurs acquired the expertise of mobilizing resources to export-oriented
RMG industries. Foreign buyers found Bangladesh an increasingly attractive sourcing place. To
take advantage of this cheap source, foreign buyers extended, in many cases, suppliers’ credit
under special arrangements. In some cases, local banks provided part of the equity capital. The
problem of working capital was greatly solved with the introduction of back-to-back letter of
credit, which also facilitated import of quality fabric, the basic raw material of the industry. Till
the end of 1982, there were only 47 garment manufacturing units. The breakthrough occurred in
1984-85, when the number of garment factories increased to 587. The number of RMG factories
shot up to 5440 in 2012-2013. The industry has grown at the rate of 59% comparing from 1998-
1999 to 2012-2013. In 2012-2013, the export earning of the RMG sector was $20 billion with
16.18 % growth than the previous year.
1.1.1 HISTORY OF THE FACTORY
Textiles and Clothing are the leading industry of Bangladesh. These sectors are earning
country’s major portion of foreign exchange and creating huge job opportunities every year since
1980. Keeping this prospect in mind, Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. Was established in
1998 in a small scale. With the passage of time, it has been expanded in a large scale with good
facilities of Knitting, Dyeing- finishing and Sewing. Now, the floor area is 426,500 Sq. feet
(39,623.3 Sq. meter). Our factory is located at the outskirt of Dhaka city. The location is South
Panishail, Zirani Bazar, Kashimpur, Gazipur which is located 37 kms from the zero point of
Dhaka and 26 kms from the HazratShahjalal International Airport.

12. 12
The main instruments of our success are the team work, skilled personnel and
professionalism. The factory is designed to meet all compliances & human right requirements.
1.1.2 GENERAL INFORMATION
•Legal Status : Private Limited Company Registered in Bangladesh
• Name of Company : Turag Garments and Hosiery Mills Ltd.
• Year of Establishment : 1998
• Production Line (Sewing) : 42 Lines
• Financial Bank : Al‐ArafahIslami Bank Limited , Uttara Branch, Dhaka‐
1230.
• Wage Paid : On monthly basis.
• Minimum Wage : Tk. 5300.00 per month (As declared by the Govt.)
• Minimum Age of Worker : 18 years
• Factory Space : 485,000 Sq. Feet (45,057.6 sq. meter ).
1.1.3 FOUNDER& DIRECTORS
Managing Director :Hossain Bin M.A. Khaleque (Babu)
Establishment of year: 1998
Location Address : South Panishail,ZiraniBazar,Kashimpur,Gazipur
E-mail: www.turagbd.com

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1.1.4 LAYOUT

14. 14
1.1.5 TURAG COMPLIANCE AT A GLANCE
For the safety and welfare to the workers, the factory is equipped and protected with
enough firefighting equipments, fire alarm, drinking water facilities, workers’ canteen,
sufficient number of toilets and first aid facilities. Medical Centre and Day Care Centre are
available in a suitable location of the factory building for better treatment of the workers
and their children.
As for customer compliance requirements, we have following certifications:
- BSCI (Good)
- WRAP (Gold)
- OEKO-TEX 100 Class I (for Fabric, Fabric Accessories, Printing, Garment, total 5
certificates)
- OCS (100 & Blended)
- FAIR TRADE
- SEDEX2.9. Product mix
 Ladies T-shirt
 Topes
 Baby wear
 Men’s T-shirt
 Jacket
 Ladies Cardigen etc.
1.1.6 MAJOR BUYERS LOGO
Buyer’s Name Origin Logo
Best Seller Denmark
Teranova Germany Teranova
Ernstings Family Germany
Gueldenpennig Germany
TOMS Germany Toms

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1.1.7 MISSION AND VISION
At Turag we are always under growth, be it in size or operational efficiencies or lead time
for specific year round programs. Growth is what kept us busy from a 30-machine factory
at the turn of century to a 1200+ machine factory 12 years later.
Our notable expansion plan includes:
Setting up of a world class Specialized Yarn Dyeing factory, capable to do 100% Viscose
yarn dyeing, Blended yarn dyeing and more.
Setting up of a Yardage Printing (All Over Printing) factory with Reactive wash facility,
using both Flat Bed printer and Rotary printer.
Setting up of a Specialized Knit Dyeing factory, capable to do 30,000 kgs of dyeing a day,
with specialized finishing
Setting up of a world class Denim Wash facility, capable to wash 40000 pcs a day, with
advanced technology and human resources to growing demand for denim products
Setting up of a Denim garment production unit, capable to produce 38,000 pcs of basic to
mid-fashion denim bottom (in the beginning) a day.
Setting up of a Outerwear garment production unit, capable to produce 16,000 pcs of mid-
range outerwear a day, using imported fabrics.
We have already set up knitting section in Madhabpur, Kashimpur, Gazipur, as Unit 2,
barely 2.3 kms from Turag, with 41 knitting machines and 18 more knitting machine will
follow by early 2014.

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2.Organogram
Managing Director
Development Director
Director
Deputy General Manager
Manager
Asst. Manager
In charge
Operators
2.1 SECTION-WISE MANPOWER
Department Manpower
Knitting 150
Dyeing & Finishing, Lab & QC 320
ETPs 10
Garments 3590
Power, Boiler, Utility & Maintenance 50
Inventory 10
Administration 77
Security 55
Others 44
Total 4306

17. 17
2.1.1 MANAGEMENT MEDIUM
1. Intercom telephone
2. Fax
3. E-mail
4. Written letters & Papers
5. Oral
2.1.2 MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
1. Buyer sample is send to G.M.
2. Matching is done by lab in charge.
3. Sample is prepared by dyeing master.
4. Sample is send to the buyer for approval.
5. Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. Sample for bulk production.
6. Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer.
7. Then production officer, with the supervisors start bulk production.
8. On line and off line quality check is done by lab in charge and asst. dyeing
master.
9. After dyeing finishing in charge controls the finishing process with the
supervision of production officer.
10. After finishing, the material is checked by dyeing master.
11. Finally, G.M. checks the result with dyeing master and decision is taken for
delivery.
2.1.3 DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER
 To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for
the smooth running of the section.
 To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production
process.
 To match production sample with target shade.
 To collect the production sample lot sample matching next production.
 To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.
 To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.
 To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
 To sign the store requisition and delivery challan in the absence of PM
 To execute the overall floor work.
 To maintain loading/ unloading paper.
2.1.4 DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES OF SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER
 Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
 Batch preparation and pH check.
 Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check.

18. 18
 Write loading / unloading time from machine.
 Program making, sample checking, color measurement.
 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
 Any other work as and when required
2.1.5 DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES OF GM (PRODUCTION)
 Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
 Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
 Check the different log books and report to management.
 Check the plan to control the best output.
 To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality
production.
 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing m/c.
 Maintenance the machinery and equipment.
 Any other work as and when required

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Chapter-III
Machine Description
3.0 NO. OF MACHINE:
Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd. Has used different type machine. This
machine is high technology & ultra-modern machine. Novel Hurricane Knit Garments
Ltd.Has eleven hundred above machinery. The machine is use different section. The section
wise machine is following-
3.1CUTTING SECTION:
 Fabric inspection m/c
 Straight knife m/c
 Brand knife m/c
 Fusing m/c
 Hand Operated Scissors
3.1.1 SEWING SECTION:
 Plain Machine(S/N)
 Double Needle Machine(D/N)
 Over lock Machine(O/L)
 Flat lock Machine (F/L)
 Kanshai Machine
 Blend Stitching m/c
3.1.2 BAR-TACK SECTION:
 Button Hole Machine
 Button join Machine
 Bar-tack Machine(B/T)
 Snap button attaching m/c

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FIGURE 1 TYPICAL VIEW OF PLAIN M/C
3.1.3 FINISHING SECTION:
 Suction Machine.
 Repeat attaching m/c
 Iron
 Metal detector m/c
 Spot cleaning m/c
3.2 MAIN SPECIFICATION:
Single needle sewing /plain machine:
 Thread stand
 Thread clamp
 Thread retainer
 Thread up lever guide
 Thread guide
 Tension disk
 Pressure screw
 Pressure bar
 Pressure feet
 Hand lifter
 Needle clamp
 Needle
 Feed dog
 SPI adjust
 Reverse lever
 Needle plate
 Oil sight winder
 Pulley
 Leg lifter
 Safety guide
 Motor
3.3 SEWING MACHINE TYPES
According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing m/c are available given below-
1. Manually Operated sewing machine
2. Electrically Operated sewing machine

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3.3.1 Manually Operated sewing machine
The m/c in which sewing is done by physical power called Manually Operated sewing
machines. These types of sewing m/c are widely used in tailoring and domestic purpose for
sewing fabrics. Because of less production, these types of sewing m/c are not used in garments
industry.
3.3.2 Electrically Operated sewing machine
The m/c, in which sewing is done by electrical power called Electrically Operated sewing
machine. Comparatively these types of m/c contain high production and widely used in garments
industries for making garments. The machines which are used in garments industries are called
Industrial sewing m/cs. There are various types of industrial sewing machines are available
named by-
1. Double chain stitch m/c (4-thread short)
2. Double chain stitch m/c (4-needle elastic inserting m/c)
3. Double chain stitch m/c (double needle with reverse feed)
4. Feed of the arm(double chain stitch m/c.3 needle)
5. Interlock m/c (2- needle 5-thread O/L M/c)
6. Lock stitch m/c (single needle with variable to feed with automatic thread trimmer)
7. Lock stitch m/c(single needle with automatic thread trimmer)
8. Lock stitch m/c (single needle sewing m/c)
9. Lock stitch m/c (2-needle with split needle bar sewing)
10. Lock stitch m/c (twin needle feed)
11. Lock stitch ink (1-needle with vertical trimmer wiper & reverse feed)
12. Lap seaming m/c (for back tape attaching)
13. Linking m/c
14. Over lock m/c (twin needle, 4-thread m/c)
15. Over lock m/c (1-needle, 3-thread)
16. Zigzag sewing m/c (1-needle)
17. Top & bottom cover stitch flat bed m/c, 3-needle
18. 3-needle covering m/c, 5-thread flat bed top & bottom covering m/c
19. Button hole m/c (for woven fabric)

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FIGURE 2 LOCK STITCHING M/C
20. Button sewing m/c
21. Bartak ink (with automatic thread trimmer)
22. Button hole sewing m/c (for knitted fabric)
23. Button covering stitch belt loop making m/c (kansai m/c)
24. Bias tape cutting m/c
25. Label sewing machine.
Only main specification of different Sewing machine (m/c) are given below-
3.4 LOCK STITCHING M/C:
 Group : Lock Stitch
 S.P.M : 1500-5500
 Needle name : DB*1
 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
 T.P.I : 2.5 inches
 Function : Woven fabric stitching
3.5 BAR TACK M/C:
 Group : Lock stitch
 S.P.M : 3000-3200
 Needle name : DP *5
 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
 Per bar tack : 8 inches
 Function : Bar tacking.
3.6 KANSAI M/C:
 Group : Chain stitch
 S.P.M : 3000-3600
 Needle name : UO * 113
 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
 Per bar tack : 16 inches
 Function : Jacket, cuff, fu-long pant, waist belt joining
FIGURE 3 BAR TACK M/C

23. 23
3.7 FEED OF THE ARM M/C:
Group : Chain stitch
S.P.M : 6000
Needle name : UY * 113
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Per bar tack : 8 inches
Function : Inseam stitching of woven & jeans fabric.
3.8 SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCHING M/C [1 NEEDLE 1 LOPPER
2 THREAD]:
Group : Chain stitch
S.P.M :1800 – 6500
Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
T.P.I : 4 inches. Figure:Single Needle Chain stitching m/c
Function : False stitching.
3.9 DOUBLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCHING M/C [2 NEEDLE 2
LOPPER 4 THREADS]:
Group : Chain stitch
S.P.M : 1800 – 6500
Needle name : UV * 5 / TV * 7
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
T.P. I : 4 inches.
Function : Side seam stitching.
FIGURE 4 FEED OF THE ARM M/C
Figure: Single Needle Chain
stitching m/c

24. 24
3.10BUTTON HOLE M/C:
Group – Lock stitch / Chain stitch
S.P.M : 3600
Needle name : DP * 5
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Per hole : 8 inches.
Function : Button hole making
3.11 BUTTON ATTACHING M/C:
Group : Lock stitch / Chain stitch
S.P.M :1500
Needle name : TQ * 1
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Function : Button attaching
3.12 Stitching m/c:
Group : Chain stitch
S.P.M : 2500
Needle name : LW * 6T
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Per hole : 8 inches
Function : Blend stitching making
3.13 ZIGZAG STITCHING M/C:
Group : Lock stitch
S.P.M : 1500 – 5500
FIGURE 5 PIN HOLE M/C
FIGURE 6: BUTTON ATTACHING
M/BLEND

25. 25
Needle name : Db * Needle size – 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 21.
Per hole : 5 inches.
Function : Decorative seam making.
3.14 OVER LOCK M/C:
 No of needle: One or multiple needle is used
 No of threads: 2-5threads are used
 Maximum stitch length is 4mm, but it can easily be adjusted by using push button system.
 SPM: 6500-8500
 Edge trimmer knife is available in front of the needle.
The m/c is used for both woven & knitted fabrics
Group Chain stitch
Brand Name Juki
Needle Type DC*1,DC*11,DC*14
Origin Japan
Model :MO-3914,TO-42 Figure: Over lock m/c

26. 26
CHAPTER –4
Raw materials
4.1 Types of Raw Materials:
Different type of raw materials are found like
1. Yarn
2. Grey Fabric
3. Dyes
4. chemicals
4.1.1 YARN:
Types of yarn Count of
yarn
source Price : kg/($)
Carded 16/1 Reedisha
spinning mill
2.65
Carded 100% cotton 24/1 Rohmot spinning
mill
2.76
Combed,carded 20/1 Color textile ltd 3.35
Combed 18/1 Banana spinning
ltd
2.45
carded 26/1 Rohmot spinning
mill
3.3
Carded 20/2 Square textile ltd 6
Spandex 20D( lycra) Sporting India ltd 6.10
Compact 22/1 Sporting India ltd 3.09
G.melange 24/1 Delta spinning
ltd.
3.35
Slub 26/1 Delta spinning
ltd.
3.53
CVC 28/1 Reedisha
spinning mill
4.7
PC 28/1 Reedisha
spinning mill
2.8

27. 27
Mélange 30/1 Color textile ltd 5.6
CVC 34/1 Delta spinning
Ltd
4.8
100%cotton 34/1
Banana spinning
ltd 2.6
Monthly requirement: 37440kg (JULY)
Annual Requirement Approximately: 449280kg/y
4.1.2 GREY FABRICS:
Following types of grey fabrics are dyed:
1.Single jersey:
- Single and double lacoste
- Polo pique
- Terry fleece
- Engineering stripe
2. Single jersey with Lycra
3. Double jersey:
- Rib
- Interlock
4. Double jersey with Lycra
5. Flat bed :
-Single Collar and Cuff
-Design Collar and cuff
Source:
The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. The required fabrics are supplied from
Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd.
Price : Not provided
4.1.3 DYES
In. Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd.the following types of dyes are used:
 Reactive dyes (cold brand & hot brand)
 Disperse dyes
The commercial name of the dyes with their prices are collected from the dye stock
report
Sl. No. Name of the Dyes Price in Tk/kg
01 Remazol yellow RR 195
02 Remazol blue RR 520

28. 28
03 Remazol red RR 420
04 Remazol blue BB New 380
05 Remazol G.yellow RGB 320
06 Remazol blue RGB 350
07 Remazol Ultra red RGB 460
08 Remazol T/blue RGB 600
09 Remazol red-RGB 466
10 Rifa blue RSPL-N 1120
11 Solazol black-B 370
12 Solazol red-SP3B 650
13 Solazol blue R/SPL 1242
14 Solazol black-GRE 210
15 Solacion navy blue-HEXL 800
16 Solacion yellow-HE4RN 1150
17 Solacion red HE3B 800
18 Evercion red-HE7B 950
19 Evercion orange-HER 1050
20 Evercion navy-HER 900
21 Dri. Turqouise 520
22 L/P black-KAP/KNA 315
23 L/P navy-NNA 450
24 Syno white-4BK
25 Sun white BVB
26 San white 4BK
27 Reactobond black-XL
28 Reactobond blue BB
29 Reactobond red BRF 550
30 Reactobond blue H2R
31 Reactobond red CRB
32 Reactobond red F3B
33 Kirazol yellow w 2BRL 480
34 Kirazol blue EMRX
35 Kirazol red EMX
36 Taicron Billian blue SGLT
37 Taicron yellow E3GT 900
38 Taicron orange E3RT 850
39 Taicron black SE-EXNT 620
40 Taicron navy blue SE-EXNT 750
41 Taicron red EF-BNT 950
42 Taicron red WW2RT 880
43 Taicron scarlet

29. 29
4.1.4 CHEMICALS
In Turag Garments & Hosiery Mills Ltd., the following chemicals are used. The names of the
chemicals with their prices are collected from the dye stock report:
Sl. No. Name of the Chemicals Price in Tk/kg
01 Imarol-PCLF(Detergent) 180
02 Finoscour-OSP(Multi scouring agent) 250
03 Kappasoft BD New(softener) 190
04 Marla ADZ(Sequester) 225
05 Cros colour CHBS(Stabilizer) 65
06 Cros colour FBP
07 Marla KT(Anticreze) 18
08 Kappaquest-A41(leveling) 105
09 Kappasoft SM 205
10 Enzyme VGS 600 130/L
11 Jintex-ALATE SQ 117CA 95
12 Cros colour BFE
13 Antifoam-MX 115
14 Silicon THS-180
15 Optovon-SV
16 Marla HAS
17 Jincosofter-CBA 224
18 Sandofix-EC
19 Jintex-TFA
20 Lyocel powder
21 Egonol-DFT 110
22 Cros colour-ADM
23 Radiclean-AL-80
24 Cros colour PCP
25 Acetic acid 85
26 Caustic soda 35
27 Hydrozen Peroxide 25
28 Soda Ash 20
29 Gluber salt 15
30 Common solt 10
31 Kepatrx R-98

30. 30
2.1 ACCESSORIES:
Thread, Button, Zipper, Fuse, Hook, Clip, Elastic, Hanger, Poly, Hang tag, Main Level, Size level,
C/O level, Tag pin, Patch level, Price Ticket, Button, etc
Price : Not Provided
Annual requirement:
Annual requirementof yarn, fabric dyes, chemical&Accessories depend on the order of production
but for variousreasons such as improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis of dyes,
unevenprocess control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improper storage facilities
& fordifferent unwanted expenditure increases dyes & chemicals requirement.
Remark
For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very essential. Afar as I
saw the raw material control of TGHMDis good.

31. 31
Chapter: 5
DESCRIPTION OF THE ATTACHMENT
5.1 KNITTING SECTION
5.1.1 ORGANOGRAM
Manager
Asst. Manager
Production officer Master Quality controller Sr. Manager Technician
Supervisor Fitter Quality Supervisor Maintenance In charge
Operator
Asst. Operator
Production Helper
Asst. Manager (Store)

32. 32
Store Asst.(Yarn) Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)
Loader (Yarn) Batch Helper/Loader
5.1.1 KNITTING
The process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a series of yarns
is called knitting.
 Warp knitting
 Weft knitting
When fabric is produced by this method in weft direction then its called weft knitting &
warp direction then its called warp knitting.5.1.2 Products made in Turag’s knitting section
Single Jersey M/C
Double Jersey M/C
S/J Plain 1×1 Rib fabric
Single lacost 2×2 Rib fabric
Double lacost Pointal Rib
Terry Interlock
Fleece Waffle
Single Pique Mesh
Double Pique Flat back rib
Knit denim
Heavy jersey
5.1.3 KNITTING PROCESS SEQUENCE
Receive the requisition of fabric sample & quantity
↓
Determine the fabric design, structure & other related parameters
↓
According to these fabric knitting starts with respective m/cs
↓
Inspection of grey fabric

33. 33
5..1.4 GREY FABRIC SENDS TO BATCHING SECTION
5.1.5 KNITTING MACHINE DETAILS:
5.1.6 LIST OF MACHINES:
M/C
NO:
DIA GAUGE FEEDER M/C BRAND
1 36 24G 216 LISKY
2 32 18 G 68 LISKY
3 32 18 G 72 LISKY
4 36 18 G 72 LISKY
5 38 18 G 80 LISKY
6 38 18 G 71 SMART
7 40 18 G 84 LISKY
8 30 20 G 90 LISKY
9 34 24 G 108 LISKY
10 36 20 G 114 LISKY
11 38 20 G 120 LISKY
12 30 24 G 180 LISKY
13 38 24 G 228 LISKY
14 26 24 G 78 LISKY
15 28 24 G 84 LISKY
16 34 20 G 102 LISKY
17 40 20 G 120 LISKY
18 32 20 G 90 LISKY
19 30 20 G 90 LISKY
20 30 20 G 90 LISKY
21 32 20 G 96 JIUNN LONG
22 34 20 G 102 JIUNN LONG
23 40 20 G 120 SMART
24 30 24 G 90 JIUNN LONG
25 32 24 G 96 JIUNN LONG
26 34 24 G 102 JIUNN LONG
27 36 24 G 108 JIUNN LONG
28 36 20 G 108 JIUNN LONG
29 38 24 G 111 JIUNN LONG
30 38 24 G 114 JIUNN LONG
31 36 18 G 72 YEAR CHINA
32 30 24 G 90 YEAR CHINA
33 34 24 G 102 YEAR CHINA
34 36 24 G 108 YEAR CHINA
35 38 24 G 114 YEAR CHINA

34. 34
36 22 24 G 65 YEAR CHINA
37 24 24 G 72 YEAR CHINA
38 26 24 G 78 YEAR CHINA
39 28 24 G 84 YEAR CHINA
40 30 18 G 60 YEAR CHINA
5.1.7 PRODUCTION PARAMETERS:
1. Fabric structure
2. Yarn count
3. Fabric GSM
4. Stitch length
5. Fabric diameter
5.1.8 SOME FIGURE IN KNITTING SECTION (M/C, FABRIC)
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE Cam Arrangement of circular
knitting machine
FIGURE 8 FLEECE FABRIC FIGURE 7 AUTO STRIPPE FABRIC

35. 35
5.1.9 DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE PARTS:
Knitting machines are mainly two types; they are circular knitting machine and
flatbed knitting machine. This two types are hugely use in knitting factory. A
knitting machine is composed of lots of parts. Every parts of a machine are important
for run the machine smoothly. Every part has a specific function during operation.
Different knitting machine parts and their functions are given below:
Parts Picture
Creel:
Creel is a part of a knitting
machine. Hear yarn package
are store and ready to feed in
the machine.
FIGURE 10 RIB FABRICS
FIGURE 9 SINGLE JERSEY FABRIC

36. 36
VDQ Pulley:
It is a very important part of
the machine. It controls the
quality of the product. Altering
the position of the tension
pulley changes the G.S.M. of
the fabric. If pulley moves
towards the positive directive
then the G.S.M. is decrease.
And in the reverse direction
G.S.M will increase.
Pulley Belt:
It controls the rotation of the
MPF wheel.
Brush:
Its clean the pulley belt.
Tension Disk:
It confronts the tension of
the supply yarn.

37. 37
Inlet and Outlet Stop
Motion:
It is an important part of the
machine. It stops the
machine instantly when a
yarn is break.
Yarn Guide:
Its help the yarn to feed in
the feeder.
MPF Wheel:
Its control the speed of the
MPF. Pulley belt gives
motion to the wheel.
MPF:
It is Mamenger positive
feed. It is also an important
part of the machine. It’s
give positive feed to the
machine.

38. 38
Feeder Ring:
It is a ring. Where all
feeders are pleased together
Disk Drum:
Use in jacquard machine to
produce various types of
design.
Pattern Wheel:
Pattern Wheel use in Pai
Lung and Auto Stripe
machine because of that
that help to produce various
types of design and stripe
Feeder:
Feeder is help yarn to feed
in to the machine.

39. 39
Needle Track:
Where all Needles is
placed together in a
decent design.
Needle:
It is a principal element of
the knitting machine. Its
help the yarn to create a
loop. And by this way
fabric are produce. Prior to
yarn feeding the needle is
raised to clear the old loop
from the hook, and
received the new loop
above it on needle stem.
The new loop is then
enclosed in the needle hook
as the needle starts to
descend.
Sinker:
It is most important
element of the machine. Its
help to loop forming,
knocking over and holding
down the loop.
Sinker Ring:
S inker ring is a ring.
Where all sinkers are
pleased together.

40. 40
Cam Box:
Where the cam are set
horizontally.
Cam:
Cam is device s which
converts the rotary
machine drive in to a
suitable reciprocating
action for the needles and
other elements.
Lycra Attachment
Device: Lycra is placed
hear. And feeding to the
machine.
Lycra Stop Motion: It is
one kind of stop motion to
stop the machine when the
Lycra is break.

41. 41
Cylinder:
Needle track are situated
hear.
Cylinder Balancer:
It helps the cylinder to set
in a proper alignment.
Uniwave Lubrication:
The Uniwave lubricator
provides uniform
lubrication to needles, cam
tracks, lifters and other
knitting machine
components. The patented
nozzle construction
separates the air-oil
mixture into air and
droplets of oil.

42. 42
Adjustable Fan: This
part removes lint, hairy
fiber from yarn and
others. To clean the dust
by air flow.
5.1.10 KNITTING FAULTS & REMEDIES
5.1.11 HOLE MARK
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly

5.1.12 B) NEEDLE MARK
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

43. 43
5.2 DYEING LAB
5.2.1 ORGANOGRAM
52.2 SEQUENCE OF OPERATION
Defining the color as buyer wanted
↓
Recipe formulation by spectrophotometer/
From previous history
↓
Lab dip preparation
↓
Send to buyer for approval
↓
Send the recipe of approved sample to Dyeing section
MANAGER
Chemical Physical
Shift-B Shift-C
Shift-A
Shift-A
Shift-B
Executive
Md. Anisul Islam
Executive
Md. Shahidul Islam
Executive-Abdul
Hamid
Technician
Md. AklasHossain
Technician
Md. Suruzzaman
Technician
Md. Ekram
Technician
Md.Alom
Asst. Technician
Md. Jalis Mahmud
Asst. Technician
Md. Tamjid Ahmed
Assistant
Md.AnisurRahman
Assistant
Md. Khalid Bin
WalidWalid
Technician
Md. Zakirul Islam
Technici
-an
Md.
Sattar
Shift-G
Shift-G
Re-Labour
Assistant
Md. Nazrul Islam
Executive
Md. AbulHasan
ERP Chemist
Re-Labour

44. 44
5.2.3 RECIPE FORMULATION:
Buyer can give fabric sample or color code or pantone number. So at first the color is to identify
if the buyer gives color code or pantone number. It is easier to formulate recipe by
spectrophotometer from color code or pantone number because they are very specific. But if it is
fabric sample then with the help of spectrophotometer several numbers of recipes are to
formulate.
5.2.4 FLOW CHART OF RECIPE FORMULATION
Swatch
↓
Click recipe
↓
Click on first match
↓
Fabric type
↓
Buyer name
↓
Color name
↓
Browse data
↓
Browse
↓
Click shade
↓
Shade select
↓
OK
↓
Dye set
↓
Dye select
5.2.5 COTTON DYES IN DYEING LAB
1. Remazol Br Blue BB 133%
2. RemazolGld Yellow RGB
3. Remazol Navy RGB 150%
4. Remazol Orange RR

45. 45
5. Remazol Red RR
6. RemazolTurquise Blue G133%
7. Remazol Yellow RR
8. Levafix Amber CA
9. Levafix Blue CA
10. Levafix Fast Red CA
11. Levafix Orange CA
12. Levafix Blue RR
13. Kimsoline Black K-BD 130%
14. Kimsoline Black B 150%
15. Kimsoline Red KLL
16. Kimsoline Red L-E
17. Kimsoline Red HF-6BN 150%
18. Kimsoline Red K-ED Conc.
19. Kimsoline Orange SHF-RR 150%
20. Kimsoline Blue L-E
21. Kimsoline Navy Blue K-d Conc.
22. Kimsoline Yellow KLL
Kimsoline Yellow HF-4GL 150% etc
5.2.6 RECOMMENDED SALT & SODA CONCENTRATION
Depth of shade Glubar salt(g/l) Soda ash(g/l)
Upto- 0.1 15 5
0.1-0.5 20 6
0.5-1.0 30.0 8.0
1.0-2.0 40.0 10.0
2.0-3.0 50.0 15.0
3.0-4.0 60.0 15.0
4.0-5.0 70.0 20.0
Abobe 5.0 80.0 5.0

46. 46
5.2.7 PHYSICAL SECTION
5.2.7.1 MACHINE DETAILS-
Instrument Makers Name Code No.
Gyro Wash James H.Heal TTL/GW/001
Wascator Electrolux TTL/WC/002
Washing Machine Siemens TTL/TD/004
Tumble dryer-1 Whirlpool TTL/TD/005
Balance-1 Ohaus TTL/EB/006
Balance – 2 Ohaus TTL/EB/007
Balance-3 AND TTL/EB/007
GSM Cutter James.H.Heal TTL/GSM/009
Crockmaster James.H.Heal TTL/CM/010
ICI Pilling Tester James .H.Heal TTL/PT/011
Pilling Measurement James.H.Heal TTL/PAV/012
Incubator James H.Heal TTL/INB/013
Steal Scale Local TTL/PHM/015
Ph Meter Hanna TTL/PHM/015
Light Box Verivide TTL/CL/016
Perspirometer James H.Heal TTL/PM/017
Conditioning Chamber TTL/CC/018
Weight Box TTL/WB/019

47. 47
5.2.8 DIFFERENT TYPES OF TEST
 Dimensional Stability to Washing(Shrinkage)
 Spirality/Twisting
 Colorfastness To Water
 Colorfastness to Washing
 Colorfastness to Perspiration
 Colorfastness to Rubbing
 Colorfastness to Saliva
 Colorfastness to Actual Laundering
 Print Durability
 Fabric Weight
 Thread Count
 Pilling Resistance
 Ph test
 Yarn Appearance
 Yarn count
Color Fastness to Washing
Color fastness to washing means, A specimen of the textile, in contact with one or two
specified adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of time and
temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in color of the specimen
and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the grey scales.
In my personal experience, in case of fastness test color fastness to washing is the first and
most important requirements of buyers. There are a number of ISO test for color fastness to
washing.
There are :
 ISO 105 C06 A2S
 ISO 105 C06 B2S
 ISO 105 C06 C2S
Among them ISO 105 C06 is the first choice of maximum buyers.
Now I will discuss about those fastness test.
FIGURE 12WASHED SAMPLE

48. 48
Multi fiber fabric
5.2.9 ISO 105 C06:
INSTRUMENTS:
1. Rota wash / Gyro wash,
2. Stainless Still Ball,
3. Multi-fiber fabric,
4. Grey scale,
5. Sewing machine,
6. Thermometer,
7. Color matching cabinet
Recipe:
Sodium Perborate…………..1 gm/liter
ECE Phosphate……………..4 gm/liter
Sample Preparation:
Sample Fabric………….10 cm*4 cm
Multi fiber fabric…………10 cm*4 cm

49. 49
5.2.9.1 WORKING PROCEDURE:
Collecting the sample from bulk and then conditioning for 04.30 to 06 hours
↓
Making a specimen of 04 cm*10 cm in size.
↓
Sewing the specimen with multi-fibre fabric of same size at one corner.
↓
Making the solution of 4gm/litre ECE detergent & 1 gm/litre sodium perborate, (If required
SKFL use 0.15 gm/litre TAED).
↓
Putting the specimen with multi-fibre fabric into the solution in Rotawash m/c
Prog.: C2S Temp.: 60OC/ 40OC Time: 30 min Still ball: 25 pcs
↓
Rinsing with hot water respectively.
↓
Squeezing with cold water of the sample is done (Hand Wash).
↓
Then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 60OC
↓
The stitching is then broken out except on one of the shorter end.
↓
Measuring the staining and color change by grey scale & make a test report.
5.2.10 For ISO 105 C06 A2S:
1. Total solution (changeable) ………150 ml
2. Stainless Still Ball………………………..10 (for hitting)
3. Time……………………………………………40 min
4. Temperature………………………………400C
Everything is same.
5.2.11 FOR ISO 105 C06 B2S:
1. Total solution (changeable) ………150 ml
2. Stainless Still Ball………………………..25 (for hitting)
3. Time……………………………………………40 min
4. Temperature………………………………500
C
Everything is same.

50. 50
5.2.12 FOR ISO 105 C06 C2S:
1. Total solution (changeable) ………50 ml
2. Stainless Still Ball………………………..25 (for hitting)
3. Time……………………………………………40 min
4. Temperature………………………………600
C
5.2.12.1 LAB TESTING MACHINE
5.3 BATCH SECTION
Batch is the pre-plan of dying process. It can be defined as a group of unis of products of the
similar type, structure, color & finish, class & composition, manufacture under essentially the
same conditions & essentially at the same time & submitted at any one time for inspection &
testing & finally goes to dyeing.

51. 51
5.3.1 FUNCTION OR PURPOSE OF THE BATCH:
1. To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
2. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following parameter:
● Order sheet (Received from buyer)
● Dyeing shade (Color or white, Light or Dark)
● M/C capacity
● Fabric structure
● Yarn type, etc
3. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor by trolley with batch card.
4. To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Proper batching criteria:
● To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
● To ensure every dyeing m/c running in full production.
● To minimize the m/c washing time or preparation time.
● To keep the no of batch as less as possible for same shade, etc.

52. 52
5.4 KNIT DYEING SECTION
5.4.1 ORGANOGRAM

53. 53
5.4.2 MACHINE DETAILS
Machine Name(Brand)
Origin Model Capacity MC. QTY.
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena2 150kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena2 250kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena2 500kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena2 750kg 02
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena2 1000kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena3 500kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena3 1000kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena3 1500kg 01
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena S 20kg 02
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena S 50kg 02
Sclavos Machine Greece Athena 3 250kg 01
J&X Chaina HF-HT 15kg 01
J&X Chaina HF-HT 25kg 01
J&X Chaina HF-HT 50kg 01
J&X Chaina HF-HT 100kg 01
BNCS Bangladesh 15kg 01
BNCS Bangladesh 25kg 01
Washing Machine Chaina 100kg 02

54. 54
5.4.3 DIFFERENT TYPES OF DYEING PROCESS
Flow Chart For Dyeing:
Grey fabric receive from knitting section
Batching
Select m/c no
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pre treatment
Select recipe for dyeing
Recipe confirm by D.M / S.P.O
Dyeing
Post treatment
Unload

55. 55
5.4.4 DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS OF COTTON
Cotton Scouring & Bleaching:
Process curve:
Fig: process curve of single stage cotton scouring & bleaching process.
5.4.5 COTTON SCOURING & BLEACHING PROCESS:
1.The fabric is loaded in machine& fills with required water.
2. Now auxiliary chemicals are added.
3. Caustic soda is added when the temperature reaches at 50°C.
4. Then H2O2 is added.
5. Now temperature is raised to 95°C & the process is carried out for 60 minutes.
6. The dye bath liquor is then cleared.
7. Then peroxide killer is added & the process is carried out at 80o
C for 15 minutes.
8. The dye bath is then cooled.
9. Now acetic acid is added and neutralize for 10 minutes.

56. 56
5.4.6 PROCESS OF COTTON WHITENING (WHITE DYEING)
Process Curve:
90 min
98⁰C
Steam 80⁰C(Hot wash)
70⁰C 55⁰C(Acetic acid)
Brightener dosing 60 min
Check Enzyme Check
Caustic pH dosing sample Bath
Steam dosing Peroxide dosing(10 min) (5 min) drop
60⁰C Det (10 min)
+AFA+ACA+Sequesterant
5.4.7 PROCESS SEQUENCE:
Fill water
↓
Material loading
↓
Detergent+AFA+Anticreasing+Sequestering
Run time-5 min
Caustic dosing (10 min)
Run time-5 min
↓
At 60 ˚C Hydrogen Peroxide dosing 10 min70˚C

57. 57
↓
Brightener dosing for 15 min
↓
Steam 98˚C
↓
90 min BD
↓
Cold wash
↓
Hot wash at 80˚C
↓
Cold wash 15 min
↓
Cold wash 15 min
↓
New water(1:6)
↓
Acetic acid at 55˚C
↓
pH check
↓
Enzyme dosing 5 min
Run time 40 min
↓
Sample check.

58. 58
5.4.8 CHEMICALS:
Brand name Type
CP Anti creasing agent
4BK Optical brightener
Az-1 Sequestering agent
Fixi Fixing agent
HP Peroxide Stabilaization
Gluber Salt Electrolyte agent
ABS Buffer salt (for nylon)
LFO Detergent
ICE Softener(for polyester)
Caustic Soda High Alkali
H2O2 Bleaching agent
LADI Levelling agent
BF Peroxide Killer
KCL Levelling agent for Reactive dye
P-100 Enzyme
ALBAFLOW Antifoaming agent
Biokill Per oxide killer
Acetic Acid pH controller
OL Oil Removing
AB-45/DP Labeling Agent
Eripon Soaping Agent
Soda Ash Low Alkali

59. 59
5.5 KNIT DYE FINISHING SECTION
5.5.1 MACHINE DETAILS
Type Brand Origin MC QCT.
Dewatering /Squeezer Santex Switzerland 01Nos.
Dryer Santex, Switzerland Switzerland 01 Nos.
Open Compactor Santex, Switzerland Switzerland 01 Nos.
Open Compactor Lafer, Italy Italy 03 Nos.
Tube Compactor Santex, Switzerland Switzerland 01 Nos.
Slitting m/c EL, Italy Italy 02 Nos.
Seuding m/c Santex, Switzerland Switzerland 02 Nos.
Brushing m/c Arrtex, Taiwan Taiwan 01 Nos.
Tumble dryer J & X, China Taiwan 01 Nos.
Tumbledryer Abatex,China Chaina 01 Nos.
Tumble dryer Abatex, China Taiwan 05 Nos.
Stenter Monforts, Germany Germany 03 Nos.
Hydro Extractor CHINA China 02 Nos.

60. 60
5.5.2 FLOWCHART OF FINISHING & MACHINE FUNCTION
Flow chart for tube fabric finishing:
Tube fabric
Dewatering
Dryer
Compactor
Flow chart for open fabric finishing:
Open fabric
Slitting
Stenter/Dryer (santex)
Compactors
5.5.3 MACHINE FUNCTION:
5.5.3.1 SLITTING:
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales
line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing.

61. 61
5.5.3.2 Function of the Machine:
 Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
 To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for
stentering.
 Delivered fabric increase Free State.
 Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a
nozzle or air sprayer.
 It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding
mechanism.
5.5.3.3 PICTURE OF SLITTING MACHINE:
Fig: Dewatering Machine
5.5.4 DRYER:
Function
 To dry the fabric.
 To control the overfeed system.
 To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
Fig: Dryer

62. 62
5.5.5 STANTER:
5.5.5.1 FUNCTION OF STENTER:
 GSM Control
 Drying
 Shrinkage control.
 Heat setting.
 Width control Finishing chemical application.
 Moisture control
.
Fig: Sterner
5.5.6 FINISHING FAULTS AND THEIR REMEDIES
No: Faults Causes: Remedies:
1 Uneven dyeing: - Uneven pretreatment (uneven
scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation
property.
- By ensuring even
pretreatment.
- By ensuring even heat-
setting in case of synthetic
fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and
chemicals.
2 Batch to Batch
Shade variation
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes &
chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of
dyes and chemicals.
- Use standard dyes and
chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor
ratio.
- Follow the standard
pretreatment procedure.
3 Roll to Roll
Variation:
- Poor migration property of dyes.
- Improper dyes solubility.
- Hardness of water.
- Use standard dyes and
chemicals.
- Use of soft water.

63. 63
4 Crease mark: - Poor opening of the fabric rope.
- Shock cooling of synthetic
material.
- Due to high speed m/c running.
- maintaining proper reel
sped & pumps speed.
- Lower rate rising and
cooling the temperature.
5 Dye spot: - Improper Dissolving of dye
particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic
soda particle in bath.
- By proper dissolving of
dyes & chemicals.
6 Wrinkle mark: - Poor opening of the fabric rope.
- Shock cooling of synthetic
material.
- Maintaining proper reel
sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and
cooling the temperature.
5.6 GARMENTS DIVISION

64. 64
5.6.1 ORGANOGRAM
Director
AGM Sr.IESr. Manager
Industrial Engineering
Manager ManagerManager
Maintenance Cutting Production
Manager
Quality Control
Manager Manager
Finishing CAD
Asst. Manager
Production
I.E Planning
Executive Executive
InchargeIncharge
Fabric Store Fabric Finished Section
5.7 SAMPLE SECTION
5.7.1 ORGANOGRAM
Manager
Deputy Manager
Inchargeqc
Accessories Sample Pattern Asst. Incharge Sample Sewing Technician
Supervisor Co- Manager Sample Supervisor
Ordinator Cutting

65. 65
Cutting Supervisor
Time Keeper Messenger
Cutting man Labour
Sample man Iron man
Senior
QC Wash Supervisor Sample keeper
7.1.2 LAYOUT
7.1.3 SAMPLE MAKING PROCEDURE
Flow Chart of Sample Making
Garments Design or Sketch (Manually or Computerized)
↓
Basic Block (Manually or Computerized)
↓

66. 66
Working Pattern (By Machine)
↓
Sample Garments (Manually)
↓
Problem of Production or Production Related Matter
↓
Costing.............................................↓ ..................................Send to Buyer
↓
Approved Sample
↓
Production Pattern (By Hand or Computer)
7.1.4 TYPES OF SAMPLE
The different types of samples sent to the buyer, in the order of dispatch process, are:
 Develop Sample
 Quotation Sample
 Size Set Sample
 Pre-production/Counter Sample/Ok/Tag Sample
 Production Sample
 Photo Sample
 Color Sample
 Fashion Sample
 Any Size type of Sample
 Shipment Sample
7.1.5 BRIEFLY DISCUSS
 Development Sample: Which sample make by available fabric & accessories and send
to buyer to collect order from the buyer that is called development Sample.
 Quotation Sample: Which sample make for the Buyers at least maximum 3 pieces of
Sample.
 Size set Sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different
sizes. In this stage factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask size
set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, and XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give
feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected.

67. 67
 Pre-production sample (PP Sample):Pre-production Sample:All the above samples are
made in sampling department. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample) to be made
in actual production line, so that operators know what they are going to make. This sample
is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by sewing line tailors. PP sample
must be approved by
 Production sample: First production garment will be send buyer for buyer satisfaction
 Photo Sample: These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples
are needed to check the measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar
fabrics but in the actual measurements and specifications. Some buyers may need these
samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing box, hang tag,
etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyer’s promotional occasions.
 Color Sample: Color samples are which samples to create color variation on different types
of sample. To send Buyers to see that sample they are ordered.
 Fashion Sample: Fashion samples are made to put on display in the retail showroom.
Fashion sample are displayed for assessing customer’s feedback and according to customers
response buyers forecast demand of a particular style. Fashion samples are made with actual
fabric and trims and accessories.
 Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and
packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept
by factory merchants and buyers merchant. The approved shipment is sent directly to
warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment out of the shipment. That is why
they keep shipment sample for future reference.
FIGURE 13:
PRODUCTION SAMPLE

68. 68
5.8 CUTTING SECTION
5.8.1 LAYOUT
5.8.2 CUTTING MACHINERIES IN TURAG
1) Straight knife
2) Band knife
3) Computerized cutting machine
4) Computerized spreading machine
5.8.3 MACHINE QUANTITY IN TURAG
Machine name Quantity
Straight knife 11
Band knife 1
Sticker machine 1

69. 69
Computerized cutting m/c 1
Auto spreading m/c 2
5.8.3.1 STRAIGHT KNIFE:
5.8.3.2 BAND KNIFE:
5.8.3.3 COMPUTERIZED CUTTING & SPREADING MACHINE:

70. 70
5.8.4 EACH PROCESS OF GARMENTS CUTTING FLOW CHART IS DISCUSSED SHORTLY IN
THE BELOW TABLE:
S/L Process Job
01 Pattern received from pattern
department
At first you have to received different sizes pattern for each
style garments from the pattern department.
02 Garments cutting ratio
received from merchandiser
Cutting ratio for each style garments should be received from
merchandiser
03 Marker making To complete cutting process in easy way, you have to make
marker for each style garments.
04 Fabric received from the
store
At the meantime, you have to receive fabrics from the store
for each style of garments.
05 Fabric Checking Here, fabrics have to checked and confirm the shade variation
free fabrics in cutting table.
06 Fabric Spreading When the above process is completed, then you have to
spread the fabric with correct lay height and ply tension.
07 Marker placing on to the lay After that, marker have to place on the top layer of the lay.
08 Cutting the fabric Here, fabrics have to cut by maintaining marker.
09 Numbering After cutting the fabrics, each parts of different style fabrics
should be numbered to avoid mixing with the others style
fabric parts.
10 Checking Checking the cutting fabrics accurately by comparing with its
marker.
11 Sorting and Bundling Cutting parts should be sorting and bundling here to send
easy into the next process.
12 Send to the next process. Cutting fabric parts have to send into next process (where
required) like printing, Embroidery, sewing etc.

71. 71
5.8.5 RELAXATION & NO OF PLY CHART FOR CUTTING
5.8.6 Marker ratio calculation:
DAT
E
Lot/Cutti
ng
Kg/la
y
Mm/d
ia
size size size size size size Total r
147/2 196/
60
16/66 98 104 110 116 122 128
1805 2172 2317 2506 3193 3919 15912
120/1
95
120/1
70
120/1
70
180/2
20
180/2
80
240/3
40
960/13
85
Dividing by the smallest quantity of order.
Size no 98: 1805/1805: 1
Size no 104: 2172/1805: 1.2
Size no 110: 2317/1805: 1.2

72. 72
Size no 116: 2506/1805: 1.3
Size no 122: 3193/1805:
1.7 Size no
128:3919/1805: 2.1
5.8.7 MARKER EFFICIENCY
Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and area of total
marker.
5.8.7.1 CALCULATE MARKER EFFICIENCY
Calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with formula.
Formula:-1
Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total marker) * 100
Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system automatically
calculates total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So you get area of marker
that is consumed by garments from CAD system.
Total Marker Area: To calculate total marker area simply multiply marker length by
marker width.
In manual marker it is difficult to measure surface area of garments patterns in a marker.
You can use a mechanical device, to calculate the surface area of pattern pieces from
outlines of the pattern pieces.
Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency when you don’t have
CAD system or. Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed by pattern pieces and total
weight fabric under total marker area. So a separate formula is used to find marker
efficiency.

73. 73
Formula: - 2
Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces in a marker /
Total weight of fabric of under the marker area) *100
Weight of garment parts: To calculate weight of garment parts cut one layer of fabric
according to markers and weigh all garment parts that are included in a marker.
Weight of marker total area: Measure weight of fabric (one layer) of total marker area.
5.9 PRINTING SECTION
5.9.1 PRINTING is a process for reproducing text and images, typically with ink on paper
using a printing press. It is often carried out as a large-scale industrial process, and is an
essential part of publishing and transaction printing.
Inprinting,woodenblocks,stencils,engravedplates,rollers,orsilkscreensareusedtoplace
colorsonthe fabric.Colorantsusedinprintingcontaindyesthickenedtopreventthecolor
fromspreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern ordesign.
Fig: Printing department
5.9.2 TYPES OF PRINTING:
o Rubber printing.
o Pigment or normal printing.
o Foil printing.
o Flock printing.
o Puff or emboss printing.
o Discharge printing.
o Glitter printing.

74. 74
5.9.3 LIST OF MACHINES:
Name of Machines No. of machines
Auto screen printing m/c 4
Auto dryer machine 4
Dryer m/c 3
Heat press m/c 12
Automatic hot fixing m/c (Ultrasonic waves system) 6
Auto stone motif m/c 1
Expose m/c 02
5.9.4 WORK FLOW DIAGRAM OF PRINTING SECTION:
Receive Art word from the
Buyer
Analyzed color &
Measurement

75. 75
5.9.5 USED CHEMICAL IN PRINTING SECTION:
 TUBVINYL 235 MC
 PRINTPERFEKT LAC 110 NEU.
 PRINTPERFEKT BLANC 600.
 Binder
5.9.6 AUTOMATING PRINTING MACHINE:
Name Brand Quantity Head
Alpah-8 M&R 01 26
Challenger M &R 02 20
Diamond Back-R series M&R 01 10
Performer M &R 01 16

76. 76
5.10 SEWING SECTION
5.10.1 ORGANOGRAM:
Production Manager
Asistant Production Manager
Incharge
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
5.10.2 MACHINE DETAILS IN SEWING
Descriptions Origin Quantity
PLAIN MACHINE Japan 360 PCS
OVERLOCK 4 THREAD Japan 368 PCS
FLAT LOCK Japan 220 PCS
KANSAI SPECIAL China 7 PCS
BARTEK MACHINE Japan 14 PCS
BUTTON HOLE Japan 17 PCS
BUTTON STITCH Japan 14 PCS
PICOTING Japan 10 PCS
RIB CUTTER Japan 8 PCS
TWO NEEDLE Japan 8 PCS
SNAP BUTTON Japan 24 PCS
Feed Of the Arm Japan 4 PCS
Fusing machine Japan 3 pcs
Smoking Japan 2pcs
ZigZag m/c Japan 1pcs
Two Needle back Tape M/c Japan 6pcs
Chain Stitch Japan 5pcs
Vertical Trimmer Japan 20pcs
TOTAL 1103 PCS.

77. 77
5.10.3 SEWING PRODUCTION FLOW CHART:
Input taken and sample arrange
Cutting
Store
Cutting
Sewing
Store
In line work
Lay out submit
PP meeting
Label check
Sewing Start
During Sewing
Out put
Finishing
Ship the Goods

78. 78
5.10.4 SEWING PROCEDURE:
Input taken and Sample arrange-
 Input taken will provide by planning department with ensure the shipment date, size, break-
down according to manpower of that line and confirm the checklist sheet of store is ok.
 As per input taken planner will provide sample from sample department.
 AQC will select the PP sheet and other necessary papers in the mentioned style.
Cutting
 Input man collects size-wise information from cutting section for giving the requisition in
store for accessories (label; button, twill-tape etc.)
Store
 From store it has to ensure all the accessories if the mentioned style is in the house.
 As per requisition store will start to arrange the accessories.
 One requisition is given for thread
Cutting:
 Input man will collect the size wise input by counting which is confirmed by cutting
section.
 Pre-work, printing, embroidery and other parts have to give by accurate check and
counting as per input quantity which will taken by sewing input man.
Sewing:
 Input man put the input in rack by size-wise.
Store:
 Store will provide all the accessories as per requirement of the inputted quantity and input
man take accessories by counting. In line work:
 After getting all necessary things supervisor will start paper layout and take necessary
actions to avoid the problems which can be affected during pick production line.
Layout submits:
 Before start the production, supervisor submit the layout sheet in IE and
maintenance department.
PP meeting:
 Before starting the sewing in the line of the style it has to be conduct pp meeting to
avoid the missing of buyer comments or requirement.

79. 79
Label check:
 AQC check the label against trim card and give the permission to start the sewing.
Sewing start:
 It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wise which quality is large.
During sewing:
 Supervisor and line-chief doing the major job during the sewing.
 They always try to solve the up-coming problem.
 Maintain the hourly production with right quality.
Output:
 After doing all processes and quality check garments will stored in output table.
 Reporter will collect the garments from output table.
 After collecting the garments, reporting will count and delivery the goods finishing section
by size wise.
Finishing:
 Finishing will ensure that the size wise quantity is ok as per order quantity.
 If there any size missing or size wise breakdown not accurate as per order quantity they
have to inform the respective production officer.
Ship the Goods:
 As per order quantity finishing will complete carton and make as final inspection.
 After final inspection goods will delivery for shipment.
5.10.5 SEWING SEQUENCE OF T- SHIRT
Parts name M/c name No of m/c
Side seam joining 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c
Label tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c
Label join with body Plain m/c 1 m/c
Side top seam 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c
Shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c _ 1 m/c
Shoulder top seam 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c
Rib v sewing Plain m/c 1 m/c

80. 80
Rib show tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c
Rib servicing 2 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c
Rib servicing by cutting Over lock m/c 1 m/c
V tuck with body Plain m/c 2 m/c
Neck join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c
Rib binding 2 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c
Back top seam Plain m/c 1 m/c
Sleeve inside tuck 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c
Sleeve hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c
Sleeve join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c
Body hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c
Quality check Men 2 person
5.10.6 SEWING SEQUENCE OF T- SHIRT (LONG SLEEVE)
Parts name M/c Name No of m/c
First shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c
Neck binding/piping 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c
Binding tuck Plain m/c 1 m/c
Second shoulder join 4 thread Over lock m/c 1 m/c
Shoulder top stitch 5 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c
False tuck on the neck Plain m/c 1 m/c
Sleeve join 4 thread Over lock m/c 2 m/c
Arm hole top seam 5 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c
Side seam join Feed of the arm (6 thread) 6 m/c
Sleeve hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 2 m/c
Body hem 3 thread flat lock m/c 1 m/c
Care label Plain m/c 1 m/c
Quality check Men 2 person

81. 81
5.10.7 SEWING SEQUENCE OF POLO SHIRT
SL NO.OPRATION MACHINE SMV MAN POWER
1 Placket rolling 1 p/m 6.1 OP=1,HL=1
2 Moo
n
joint
1 p/m 14 OP=1
3 Moon top stitch 1 F/L 12.4
0
OP=1,HL=1
4
4
Kasa maring (neck close) 1 P/M 11.44 OP=1
5 Placket matching with front
part
Table ,HL=2
6 Placket attach with front part P/M (Auto) 20.40 OP=1
7 Placket top stitch 1 P/M 20.00 OP=1,HL=1
8 Placket tuck 1 P/M 17.1
0
OP=1,HL=1
9 Matching (F&B part) Table 13.0
0
OP= 1,HL=1
10 Solder joint with solder tap 1 0/L 10.0
0
OP=1,HL=1
11 Solder top stitch 1 F/L 12.00 OP=1,HL=1
12 Collar cut without thread O/L( N o NEED) 6.00 OP=1,HL=1
13 Collar tuck with Placket 1 P/M 15.33 OP=1,HL=1
14 Collar joint with body 1 O/L 10.0
0
OP=1,HL=1
15 Neck piping 1 F/L 10,2
0
OP=1,HL=1
16 Main label joint 1 P/M 12.5
0
OP=1,HL=1
17 Sleeve hem joint with Sleeve 1 OIL 13.00 OP=1,HL=1
18
18
Collar back top stitch 2 F/L 17.50 OP= 2,HL=2
19 Cutting& Matching (Sleeve&
body)
Table 7.00
(42:2
0)
HL= 2
20 Sleeve joint 2 O/L 22.50 OP= 2,HL=2
21 Placket Kasa mara 1 P/M 19.30 OP=1
22 Placket 1/16 top stitch P/M (Auto) 11.00 OP=1
23 Placket tuck 1 P/M 13.40 OP=1,HL=1
24 Care label joint 1 P/M 14.10 OP=1
25 Placket box top stitch 2 P/M 20.00 OP= 2,1.1
26 Inspection all back process Table 11.40 OP=1

82. 82
Here,
Total Machine = 37 Total Manpower = 73
27 Bottom hem 1 F/L 13.20 OP=1,HL=1
28 Side seam 2 0/L 31.00 OP= 2 HL=2
29 Side band twill tap
‘f
I
1 P/M 10.40 OP=1,HL=1
30 Side band tuck 1 P/M (Auto) 17.30 OP=1
31 Side band top stitch 2 P/M 29.30 OP= 2,HL=2
32
Sleeve inside tuck 1 P/M 12.00 OP=1 HL=1
,
33 Sleeve outside top stitch 1 P/M 9.30 OP= I,HL=1
34 Side band tuck 1 P/M 17.50 OP=1,HL=1
35 Button hole 1 B/H 12.30 OP=1
36 Button Positionin
G
able 10.00 OP=1
37 Button attaching 1 B/A 14.10 OP=1
Symbol Name Quantity
P/M Plain machine 18
O/L Over lock m/c 8
P/M (Auto) Auto Plain m/c 3
F/L Flat lock m/c 6
B/H Button hole m/c 1
B/A Button attaching m/c 1
OP Operator 40
HL Helper 33

83. 83
Result: Total time required to making garments is 9:28 if single machine is used. But double
machine is used in (operation, 18, 21, 25, 28, 31) so that time Reduce 60 secede.
Actual Total time required to making a garments=8:28 minutes (basic time)
5.10.8 FEATURES OF BASIC SEWING MACHINE:
 In garment industry, basic sewing machines are used for numerous applications.
 Generally they are available in three versions: (i) Sewing with light material, (ii) Sewing
with medium material and (iii) Sewing with heavy material.
 Speed up to 10,000 rpm with electronic controls for acceleration and declaration.
 Electronically control thread cutting, needle poisoning, back tacking mechanism through
the foot pedal, foot lifting system available in the machine.
 Programmable sewing sequence via micro process for repetitive operation.
 A great variety of feed systems, attachments and apparatus are available to make the
machine more flexible.
5.10.9 COMPARATIVE STUDIES BETWEEN DIFFERENT TYPES OF STITCHES:
Stitch type Formation Characteristics Application
Single thread chain
stitches
One needle thread
interloping with itself
Elastic, easy to unravel Basting, button sewing,
label sewing, bag
closing, tacking and so
on.
Lock stitches Interlacing of needle
thread and bobbin
thread.
Reversible, strong,
versatile, secure, neat,
flat but not stretchable.
Top stitching, common
seam sewing.
Over edge stitches One needle thread
interloping itself warps
ad protects the edge.
Elastic, allow the seam
to break open easily
unraveled.
Break open seaming
Cover stitch Similar to 406 but it has
a covering thread on the
top surface
Provide excellent top &
bottom cover & flat
seam
Attaching knit collar on
knit garments.
Combination Stitches Combines stitch types
401 & 504
% threads safety over
edging, surging &
seaming
Side seaming of
shirting.

84. 84
5.10.10 SOME SEWING DEFECTS
Feed system, needle and thread together determine the seam appearance and performance. Some
are major problems which cannot be overlooked and for these problems garment will be rejected
by the inspector, where as some minor problem which are negligible in low quality garments.
The sewing defects are:
Seam pucker
Broken or open stitch
Staged (spread out) stitch
Slipped or skipped stitch
Variable stitch density
5.10.10.1 SEAM PUCKER:
Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam when compared
to smooth fabrics. The main causes of seam pucker are mentioned below:
 Mainly seam pucker occurs due to unequal tension feed-dog and pressure foot on two plies
of fabrics.
 It also occurs due to unequal thread tension and unsuitable thread.
 It may occur due to feeding problem and needle size.
 It also occurs due to shrinkage of either fabrics or sewing thread.
 It may occur due to instability of fabric dimensions or fabric construction.
5.10.10.2 BROKEN OR OPEN STITCH:
It is also major problem of sewing. The reasons of occurring broken or open stitch are mentioned
below:
 Mainly due to tension variation between needle and bobbin thread in high speed sewing
machine, breakage of threads occurs. This is responsible for broken stitch.
5.10.10.3 STAGGERED STITCH:
If he stitches produces by needle are parallel with the seam line individually then they are called
staggered stitch.
 Due to needle defection and vibration
 Due to loose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar.
 Due to wrong selection of needle point
 Due to combination problem of needle and thread size
 Due to faulty speed and motion of feed-dog
 Due to improper controlling of fabric by the feed mechanism.

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5.10.10.4 SLIPPED OR SKIPPED STITCH:
If the continuation of stitch in a seam line hampers by slipping some stitches. Then such stitch is
called slipped or skipped stitch. If the looper in machine cannot pick the loop of needle thread
from the underside, slipped stitch arises. The causes of slipped stitch are:
 If the timing between needle and looper or bobbin is not proper, needle thread loop is not
picked up by bobbin thread loop when required. This will cause slipped stitch.
 If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs.
 Unequal tension between the two sets of thread.
 Deflection or vibration of needle.
 Due to flagging during sewing.
5.11 FINISHING SECTION

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5.11.1 ORGANOGRAM:
In charge Supervisor Helper
5.11.2 FINISHING LAYOUT
Thread cutting
Repeat button
Pocket cleaning
Inside pre-final
Top side pre-final
Thread sucker
Ironing
Final check
Measurement check
Get up
Hand tag
Hand tag level check
Folding
Packing
Delivery

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5.12INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING (IE)
5.12.1 ORGANOGRAM:
Director
Sr. IE Executive
Executive
Sr. IE Officer
Officer
Discuss:
According to the International Labor Organization (ILO) Hand Book, it is a term used to embrace
the techniques of method study and work measurement, which are employed to ensure the best
possible use of human and material resources in carrying out a specified activity. It is an essential
part for the mass production industries. “Turag Garments and Hosiery Mills Ltd.” Understands the
need of work study and has set up an independent department of work study. In some other
industries this dept. is called IE or “Industrial Engineering”.
5.12.2 FUNCTION OF THE DEPARTMENT:
Work study department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the
entire idea of the garment construction the thread & trims consumption criteria. And also provides
layout for sewing, finishing etc.
5.12.3 DETAIL ACTIVITIES OF WORK STUDY:
 Style details collect
 SMV make
 Lay out make
 M/C arrange
 After production planning meeting

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 First week production plan
 Line feeding
 Work aid arrange
 Method study (Innovation) take video
 Time study
 Line capacity find out
 Bottle neck operation find out
 Individual follow up bottle neck operation try to increase production
 Capacity efficiency wish target setting try to achievement housing daily
 Loss time record.
5.12.4 IMPORTANT TERMS IN WORK MEASUREMENT:
 Standard performance – Optimum rate of output achieved by a qualified worker as an
average per working day/shift, due allowance being made for the necessary time required
for rest.
 Qualified worker – One who has the necessary physical attributes, intelligence and
education, and has acquired the necessary skill and knowledge to carry out the work in
hand to the satisfactory standards of safety, quantity and quality.
 Element – A distinctive part of a specialized job selected for convenience by
observation, measurement and analysis. There are eight types of elements –
repetitive, occasional, constant, variable, manual, machine, governing and foreign.
 Work cycle – The sequence of elements which are required to perform a job or yield a unit
of production.
 (Observed) Worker Rating – The assessment of a worker ‘s rate of working relative
to the observer‘s concept of rate corresponding to the standard pace.
 Standard rating – It is defined as the rate of output which qualified workers will naturally
achieve as an average output for a given period of time. This rating is denoted as 100 or
100%.
 Rating factor – It is the multiplying unit to the standard rating which gives the observed
rating. For e.g., if the observed rating is 100, rating factor is 1; if observed rating is 90, the
rating factor is 0.9 and so on.

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 Basic (Normal) time – It is defined as the time taken by a qualified worker to do a piece
of work at the standard rate of performance.
 Relaxation allowance – The additional time that is allowed to a worker for a
specified work over and above the basic time, counted as a percentage of basic time and
taken into account several factors depending upon the job.
 Work content – It consists of work plus allowances for rest, personal needs, and any other
allowance for additional work.
 Standard time – The total time in which a job should be completed at standard
performance.
 Standard time = Basic time + (Basic time x Allowance)
 Allowed time – A time allowed for payment purposes to the factory worker where the
standard time is increased appropriately by a factor representing a bonus and / or policy.
 Standard minutes – A standard minute (SM) expresses a unit of work in terms of the 100
BS scale. Standard performance is recognized as being 60 SMs an hour. It is different from
standard time, in that the latter includes ineffective and occupied time.
5.13 MERCHANDISING SECTION
An apparel merchandiser, also known as a fashion merchandiser, is the person who conceives and
implements merchandising displays in retail environments focused on the sales of clothing and
accessories.
Being leading apparel manufacturing industry Esquire Knit Composite Ltd have its own
merchandising department. This department as a buying house for the company. They have some
definite buyers around the world for dealing with them. Collection order is the main function of
this department. Following up production, fabric order, trims and accessories, costing of
production, determining profit of the company are also the jobs of this department. This dept works
as a bridge between the buyer and the company. They have around fourty merchandiser in this
department and they worked as a team. Ten teams are available in this dept.

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5.13.1 BASIC WORKING PROCEDURE OF THE DEPARTMENT:
 Order Collection
 Sample Making and Costing
 Negotiation and Order Confirmation
 Fabric and Trims Booking
 Pre-production Meeting
 Follow up Production
5.13.2 WORKING PROCEDURE OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
5.13.3 A MERCHANDISER SHOULD HAVE
 Good knowledge of raw materials (fiber, yarn, fabric, garments and accessories required)
 Clear concept of the usually potential quality problems in the garments manufacturing.
 Sufficient knowledge of dyeing printing finishing washing embroidery garments
manufacturing.
 To procure or collect a garments export order.

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 To estimate time schedule for the export of those garments as per L/C
 Adequate knowledge about color fastness of fabrics, garments & accessories.
 Adequate knowledge of quality control and management.
 Good knowledge of exporting and importing countries.
 Knowledge of duty rates and customer regulations.
 Knowledge of shipping and banking documentation and regulations.
 Order procures of international buyers.
 Good knowledge of mathematics.
 Excellent power of motivation to improve public relations.
 Knowledge of computer literacy and internet.
 To monitor garments packing instructions.
 To maintain continuous liaison with the buyer or his representative if needed.
 To follow up payment collection against garments export as per time schedule
 To earn profit through garments export execution.
5.13.4 RESPONSIBILITIES OF A MERCHANDISER:
 Internal & external communication,
 Sampling,
 Preparing internal order sheets,
 Accessories & trims in-housing,
 Preparing purchase orders,
 Getting approvals on lab dips,
 Advising and assisting production and quality department,
 Taking responsibility for inspections,
 Giving shipping instructions and following shipment.
5.13.5 DAILY ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER:
 Checking mails. They need to give the reply within the day basedonpriority.
 Checking port status and convey to concern department.
 Checking the shipments documents and informconcern department.
 Checking daily production status to understand shipment status
 Checking shipment schedule andrawmaterialsproductionstatus
 Follow-up with sample section for different buyers sample

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 Follow-up with store for fabric and accessories received
 Follow-up with the production manager for the production plan
 Follow-up with the commercial people L/C, BTB L/C and L/C amendment
 Price quotation and delivery confirmation to the buyer
 Reporting to marketing and merchandising chiefon the daily activities.
 Reporting to executive director on the important
5.13.6 WEEKLYACTIVITIES OF MERCHANDISER:
Meeting with the fabrics and accessories supplier
Meeting with the buyer and buying houses
Prepare purchase order with approval and sign of proper authority.
Issuing pro-forma invoice with the approval and sign of the proper authority.
Providing cost break-down to commercial department during L/C opening
5.13.7 MONTHLY ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER:
Meeting with the production people
Meeting with the quality people and pattern master
5.13.8 YEARLY ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER:
Yearly self-assessment on the performance based on number of buyers handled,
shipment quantity, CM charge negotiated, debit note settled with the supplier.
5.13.9 FORMULA USED FOR CONSUMPTION:
𝑲𝒈 ⁄ 𝑫𝒐𝒛𝒆𝒏 = ((𝑩𝒐𝒅𝒚 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉 + 𝑺𝒍𝒆𝒆𝒗𝒆 𝒍𝒆𝒏𝒈𝒕𝒉 + 𝟏𝟎𝒄𝒎) × (𝑪𝒉𝒆𝒔𝒕 + 𝟒𝒄𝒎) × 𝟐 × 𝟏𝟐
× 𝑮𝑺𝑴 × 𝑾𝒂𝒔𝒕𝒂𝒈𝒆 𝟖% 𝒕𝒐 𝟐𝟓%)/𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎𝟎𝟎𝟎𝟎
Wastage Percentage as per fabric types:
Singlejersey 8%
Rib 12%
Pique 15%
FeederStripe 25%
EngineeringStripe Asper stripe mess.

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Chapter- 6
Utility Services
6.1 AVAILABLE UTILITY FACILITIES:
1. Electricity
2. Gas
3. Water
4. Compressed air
5. Boiler etc
6.1.1 ELECTRICITY:
The main utility electricity is supplied by generator power.
6.1.2 GAS:
Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally 36 m3
gasis required to produce 1 ton of steam.
6.1.3 GENERATOR:
Two types –
1. Gas generator
2. Diesel generator
Specification of Gas Generator:
 Quantity : 02
 Brand : WAUKESHA
 Origin : USA
 Capacity : 1125KVA

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Specification of Diesel Generator:
 Quantity : 02
 Brand : GENPOWER
 Origin : TURKEY
 Capacity : 630KVA
6.1.4 WATER:
Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible andcentrifugal pumps.
Source of water : Underground water.
No. of submersible pump 05
6.1.5 COMPRESSOR:
Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section as required.InTGHML.
six compressors are used to produce and deliver compressed air todifferent section.
Specification:
No. of Compressor :6
Pressure of compressor :7.5 bar
Capacity :70 M3
/hr.
Specification of Boiler:
 Quantity: 01
 Brand : Daelim Royal Boiler
 Origin : SOUTH KOREA
 Capacity : 8000 kg/h
Source of Utility:
Electricity :Generator & REB Power
Gas :TITAS
Water :Pumps
Compressed air :compressor
Steam : Boiler
6.1.6 UTILITY COST:
01. Gas bill (Titas) : 7-8 lacs / month
02. Electricity Bill (REB) : 8-9 lacs / month
03. Others:5-6 lacs / month

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6.1.1EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT(ETP)
ETP mean “Effluent Treatment Plant”. It is most important for environment. ETP is the most important
factor in any washing plant. Paradise washing plant has an effluent treatment plant which is a biochemical
ETP. In Turag Garments and Hosiery Mills Ltd. Modern Biological cum Chemical with 120 M3/hour
capacity ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) installed by POLLUTION ENGINEERING TAIWAN based on
DAF system whereby the effluent is treated in stages and gradually removes all suspended solids bringing
the COD and BOD to acceptable levels and pH is adjusted to make the treated effluent favorable to
biological needs.
6.1.1.1 CHEMICAL LIST FOR (E.T.P)
 Sodium Hypochlorite
 Sulphuric Acid
 Neutrient Salt
 Poly-electrolyte
 Anti foam
6.1.1.2 PROCESS OF ETP:
Dyeing
Store Tank (temperature control)
Neutralization (H2SO4)
Distributor
Biological Oxidation Tank (anti foam, Ne.Salt)
Sedemation feeding Tank
Sedemation
Sulsintertank
Boiler
Steam exhaust

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Chapter- 7
Maintenance
7.1.1 MAINTENANCE
Maintenances a process by which equipment is look after in such a way that trouble free, Service
& increased machine life can be ensured & specific product quality required by customers is
sustained. On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures trouble tree services.
7.1.2 MAINTENANCE TYPES:
 Preventive maintenance
 Corrective maintenance
 Reliability centered maintenance
7.1.3PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection/checking
of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful description.
Break down maintenance:
In this case repairs are made after the equipment is out of order & it can not perform its normal
functions.
Maintenance
Preventive
maintenance
Mechanical
maintenance
Electrical
maintenance
Break down
maintenance
Mechanical
maintenance
Electrical
maintenance

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Routine maintenance:
Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department.
Normally in case of dyeing machine Maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different
important parts are done.
7.2.1 MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE:
Normally preventive maintenance is done here. For winch dyeing m/c it is kept for 15
days & for finishing floor it is kept for I5 days. During maintenance procedure following
points should be checked.
7.2.2 CHECK LIST FOR DIFFERENT PARTS:
7.2.1.1 MAINTENANCE: MECHANICAL
SL NO. Items needs to be checked & serviced
1 Grease the m/c bearing
2 Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required
3 Check air supply filters, regulators auto drain seals
g fd I I d
4 Clean filters element & below out
5 Greasing of unloading roller bearing
6 Checking of oil levels & bolts of unloading roller gearbox
7 Complete cleaning & machine
8 Checking unloading roller coupling & Packing
9 Checking & cleaning (if required) of main vessel level indicator
10 Check the oil level pump bearing & refill if required
11 Check the function or heart & cool modulating valves
12 Check all belts & belt tension
13 Check all door seals
7.2.1.2 MAINTENANCE ELECTRICAL
SL NO. Items needs to be checked & serviced
1 Check main panels
2 Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter
3 Clean main pump inverter & its cooling fan
4 Check all circuit breaker ,magnetic ccnductors & relays
5 Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over load
6 Visual checking of all power & control cables
8 Check & clean fluff & dirt at all motor fan covers
9 Check DC drive of Neel motors

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10 Check all pressure switches
11 Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank
12 Check all signal isolators
13 Check setting & operation of lid safely switches
14 Check setting of tangle sensors
15 Check all pneumatic solenoids
16 Check all indicating lamps
17 Check calibration of heating/ cooling modulating valve
18 Check all on/off switches
7.3 MAINTENANCE TOOLS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS:
Tools name and functions Picture
Double ended wrench
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts &
bolts
Slide Range
Function: Tightening & Loosening of Nuts &
bolts
Hammer
Function: Forging hot metal, riveting,
bending,
Straightening, peening, stretching and
swaging.
Screw driver
Function: Is a hand tool, designed to turn or
release screws or bolts.

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Chapter -8
Store &Inventory Control
8.1 STORE ORGANOGRAM:
Store manager
Asst. store manager
Junior executive
Store officer
Store assistant officer
Store assistant (fabric)
Store assistant (yarn)
Store assistant grey (fabric)
Store helper
Loader

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8.2 STORE DEPARTMENT WORKING PROCEDURE:
Challan wise all accessories physical inventory than received.
Buyer wise sent to rack.
Store requisition wise accessories physical inventory than received.
All stationary items received as per challan wise.
All stationary items issue as per SR wise.
All fabrics challan wise physical weight than received store.
All fabrics QC checks than sent to fabric rack.
SR wise fabric issue to cutting floor.
8.3 FREQUENCY OF INVENTORY UPDATE
1. Monthly inventory control
2. Annual inventory control

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8.4 INVENTORY CONTROL SYSTEM FOR RAW MATERIALS
8.4.1 DYE STORE & OTHER CHEMICALS STORE 
 Both of these are received by the store in charge.
 First he sends these to quality in-charge for inspection. If they are found to be of required
quality then they are taken to store by the storekeeper.
 Store in-charge supplies these when required and records the date, type of material,
quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book.
8.4.2 GREY FABRIC STORE 
 Grey fabric is usually stored in another storeroom, which is separate from dyeing shade.
 Grey fabric is first sent to the QC department for quality assurance and then taken to the
storeroom.
 Grey fabric is received by fabric store in-charge.
 He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and
section in which supplied, in his register book.
8.5 INVENTORY CONTROL SYSTEM FOR FINISHED FABRIC
 Finished fabric from the compactor or stenter goes to inspection team. Here inspection is done by
a four points system.
 Required GSM, width (diameter), shrinkage, spirality, wash fastness, rubbing fastness etc are
tested from the lab before packaging.
 After finishing the fabric is kept in package before their transfer to the garments department.
 He supplies the fabric as per requirement and records the date, type of material, quantity and
section in which supplied, in his register book.
8.6 INVENTORY CONTROL SYSTEM FOR SPARE PARTS
 Spare store officer keeps the spare parts in store and makes a list of spare parts.
 If the spare parts are little in stock he gives requisition to maintenance manager.
 Maintenance manager gives requisition to head office. Head office imports spare parts or
buys from local market as per requirement.
 As new spare parts arrive to store officer, he receives and catalogues them.
 He supplies the spare parts as per requirement and records the date, type of material,
quantity and section in which supplied, in his register book.