The document discusses innovations in textiles, differentiating between invention and innovation while highlighting the importance of institutions, markets, and technologies. It addresses various innovations focusing on sustainable practices, such as waterless dyeing, natural dyes, and enzymatic processes, as well as the emergence of novel materials like eco viscose and spider silk. Additionally, it underscores the need for proactive innovation to navigate changes in the industry rather than reacting to them.

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Innovations in
Textiles
A G M Nabar Endowment Lecture

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“Invention” can be defined as the creation of a
product or introduction of a process for the first time.
“Innovation” on the other hand, occurs if someone
improves on or makes a significant contribution to an
existing product, process or service.
Definition

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1. Institutions – which are often neglected but are where the
innovations happen.
2. Markets – where the demand and the finance comes from
and
3. Technologies – which go hand in hand with innovations
“Innovation is about the smart application of knowledge to
solve problems more imaginatively than we have in the
past.”
Shaping Innovations

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Ecology
Legislation
Cost
New Substrate
New Process
Speed for economics
Fashion and advertisement
Productivity constraint
Sustainability
Change Agents

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It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the
most intelligent
But the most responsive to change
Charles Darwin
Theory of Evolution

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• Products and processes
• Water Consumption
• Sustainable Fibres
• Coloration without dyes
Innovations pertaining to

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 Natural dyes derived from plant material do not have the problems
associated with synthetic yes ,like banned amines ,PCB,PAH etc, however they
cannot be used on polyesters
O
O
OH
OH
CH3CH2I
KOH, DMSO
alizarin
1,2-dihydroxyanthraquinone
O
O
OH
O
1-hydroxy-2-ethylanthraquinone
+ KI, H2O
Natural colours

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• Reactive dyes having a quartenary
nicotinate
• Cationic Reactive Dyes
• Avitera™
• Pigments for Polyesters
• Dyestone™
Colours

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"Dyestone® X Color" is neither pigment nor dyestuff,
but a patented new generation of textile colorants that
fully utilize micro-encapsulating technology.
Matsui International's insoluble colors are finely ground
at the Nano-level and coated with a water-soluble
polymer on the surface level and can be applied onto
almost any kind of textile substrate (cotton, polyester,
nylon, rayon, etc.) by both printing & pad-dyeing
process.
Dyestone colorants

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Pigment Pigment Pigment
Binder
FABRIC
Cross-Linking Agent
Water-soluble Polymer
Insoluble Colorant
FABRIC
Conventional vs Dyestone

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• Use of Sugars in Sulphur dyeing
• Pre-treatment of cellulose with cationic,
nucleophilic polymers to enable reactive dyeing
at neutral pH without electrolyte addition
• Enzymes for polyester and also for imparting
hydrophilicity oligomer removal
Auxiliaries

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Fabric
E control™, Pad-Sizeox™
Garments
A blend of “color” and “softener”
Enzyme with tint
Provides ONE STEP stone-wash and tinting effect, abrasion,
surface polishing, de-pilling, and body softness on Indigo denim
garments.
Enzymatic single bath desizing-bleaching-dyeing
process for cotton fabrics
Processes

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Coloured Silk Cocoons

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Waterless dyeing

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Supercritical COO

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A fabric roll in
the chamber
Control panel
Pressure storage vessel,
pumps and pipework
SCOO - Machines

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SCOO - Process

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Process

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Process

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Cotton Art-Transfer printing of Natural
fabrics- German Dutch

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Digital Printing

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• Ozone laundry systems
• Replacement of water with polymers
• Self cleaning
Washing of garments
T-Shirt LCA
• 170 gms
• 2653 litres water(45% in
usage-1193litres)
• 90 gm fertilizer
• 45 gm pesticide
• 540 gm fossil fuel

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Ozone laundry systems

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Xeros
Reduction in water during usage

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MinicorCatalytic clothing
Self cleaning fabrics

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Sunlight Washing, Clothes

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• Eco viscose
Modal Edelweiss™
• Soya
• Bamboo
Sustainable, natural, anti
bacterial, breathable and cool
Fibres

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• PLA, Ingeo®, Sorona®
• >Mooo®
Fibres

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Fermentation Fashion Microbe garments

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Bio couture

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Nourishing Garments

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Clothes that cure you

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Prolonged delivery

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FrankenSpider - Spider Silk

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Invisibility

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Clothing that undresses you

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3µm
Morpho rhetenor butterfly Peacock feather
Coloration without colorants

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Teijin Fiber Corporation
Multilayer Optical
Interference
MORPHOTEX®

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Plixel Color Printing*
* A Star Exploit Technologies
Coloration without colours

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Endangered species extinction of business
Do not merely react to change
Anticipate and initiate change
Equilibrium is extinction

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How do we innovate?
Go beyond boundaries
Explore new possibilities
Not innovating is riskier

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