Innovations, sustainability, reduction in water consumption, energy reduction, cost savings,Lecture given in Hongkong and ICT Mumbai

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Innovations in
Textiles
A G M Nabar Endowment Lecture

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“Invention” can be defined as the creation of a
product or introduction of a process for the first time.
“Innovation” on the other hand, occurs if someone
improves on or makes a significant contribution to an
existing product, process or service.
Definition

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1. Institutions – which are often neglected but are where the
innovations happen.
2. Markets – where the demand and the finance comes from
and
3. Technologies – which go hand in hand with innovations
“Innovation is about the smart application of knowledge to
solve problems more imaginatively than we have in the
past.”
Shaping Innovations

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Ecology
Legislation
Cost
New Substrate
New Process
Speed for economics
Fashion and advertisement
Productivity constraint
Sustainability
Change Agents

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It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the
most intelligent
But the most responsive to change
Charles Darwin
Theory of Evolution

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• Products and processes
• Water Consumption
• Sustainable Fibres
• Coloration without dyes
Innovations pertaining to

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 Natural dyes derived from plant material do not have the problems
associated with synthetic yes ,like banned amines ,PCB,PAH etc, however they
cannot be used on polyesters
O
O
OH
OH
CH3CH2I
KOH, DMSO
alizarin
1,2-dihydroxyanthraquinone
O
O
OH
O
1-hydroxy-2-ethylanthraquinone
+ KI, H2O
Natural colours

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• Reactive dyes having a quartenary
nicotinate
• Cationic Reactive Dyes
• Avitera™
• Pigments for Polyesters
• Dyestone™
Colours

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"Dyestone® X Color" is neither pigment nor dyestuff,
but a patented new generation of textile colorants that
fully utilize micro-encapsulating technology.
Matsui International's insoluble colors are finely ground
at the Nano-level and coated with a water-soluble
polymer on the surface level and can be applied onto
almost any kind of textile substrate (cotton, polyester,
nylon, rayon, etc.) by both printing & pad-dyeing
process.
Dyestone colorants

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Pigment Pigment Pigment
Binder
FABRIC
Cross-Linking Agent
Water-soluble Polymer
Insoluble Colorant
FABRIC
Conventional vs Dyestone

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• Use of Sugars in Sulphur dyeing
• Pre-treatment of cellulose with cationic,
nucleophilic polymers to enable reactive dyeing
at neutral pH without electrolyte addition
• Enzymes for polyester and also for imparting
hydrophilicity oligomer removal
Auxiliaries

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Fabric
E control™, Pad-Sizeox™
Garments
A blend of “color” and “softener”
Enzyme with tint
Provides ONE STEP stone-wash and tinting effect, abrasion,
surface polishing, de-pilling, and body softness on Indigo denim
garments.
Enzymatic single bath desizing-bleaching-dyeing
process for cotton fabrics
Processes

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Coloured Silk Cocoons

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Waterless dyeing

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Supercritical COO

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A fabric roll in
the chamber
Control panel
Pressure storage vessel,
pumps and pipework
SCOO - Machines

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SCOO - Process

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Process

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Process

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Cotton Art-Transfer printing of Natural
fabrics- German Dutch

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Digital Printing

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• Ozone laundry systems
• Replacement of water with polymers
• Self cleaning
Washing of garments
T-Shirt LCA
• 170 gms
• 2653 litres water(45% in
usage-1193litres)
• 90 gm fertilizer
• 45 gm pesticide
• 540 gm fossil fuel

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Ozone laundry systems

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Xeros
Reduction in water during usage

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MinicorCatalytic clothing
Self cleaning fabrics

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Sunlight Washing, Clothes

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• Eco viscose
Modal Edelweiss™
• Soya
• Bamboo
Sustainable, natural, anti
bacterial, breathable and cool
Fibres

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• PLA, Ingeo®, Sorona®
• >Mooo®
Fibres

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Fermentation Fashion Microbe garments

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Bio couture

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Nourishing Garments

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Clothes that cure you

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Prolonged delivery

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FrankenSpider - Spider Silk

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Invisibility

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Clothing that undresses you

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3µm
Morpho rhetenor butterfly Peacock feather
Coloration without colorants

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Teijin Fiber Corporation
Multilayer Optical
Interference
MORPHOTEX®

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Plixel Color Printing*
* A Star Exploit Technologies
Coloration without colours

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Endangered species extinction of business
Do not merely react to change
Anticipate and initiate change
Equilibrium is extinction

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How do we innovate?
Go beyond boundaries
Explore new possibilities
Not innovating is riskier

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