Importance of Design in Digital printing of Textiles. Various types of designs are illustrated to show that to be successful in ink jet printing of textiles its the design that matters. It is now possible to print by ink jet what earlier was not by conventional Textile printing

1. .
The Design is dead,
Long live the Designer
Dr Sanjiv Kamat

2. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Kothari Info Tech Limited
KITL is a technology company known for its innovative products world-wide.
KITL has invested into its own R&D covering the field of ink chemistry, RIP
and colour management and variable data printing software.
What we do ?
• Producer of Inks for digital textile printing. Charu™ inks and Disha™
pre-coatings
• Producer of RIP and colour management software for digital textile
printing. Print Pro™
• Provider of Digital textile printing solutions to customers in India
based around the equipments of our OEM partners.
As an OEM supplier of inks and RIP, our products are marketed all over the
world through our OEM customers and are well accepted.

3. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
How many seasons?
Who knows what
season comes after fall
and just before winter

4. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Indian Consumer
Favorable Demography (35?!)Favorable Demography (35?!)
Increasing AffordabilityIncreasing Affordability
Increasing Awareness (Internet 3rd
)Increasing Awareness (Internet 3rd
)
Rising AspirationsRising Aspirations
Changing LifestyleChanging Lifestyle
•New Indian
Consumer
•Living in a globally
integrated
environment
•Moving towards to
self-indulgence
and self
expression
•New Indian
Consumer
•Living in a globally
integrated
environment
•Moving towards to
self-indulgence
and self
expression

5. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Consumer Segments
Socialites
Conservatives
Working Women
Rich

6. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Consumer Segments
Socialites
Conservatives
Working Women
Rich

7. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Market Drivers
Fast and Frequent Design Changes
Economic Short Print Runs
Increased Demand For Personalisation
Increased Demand For Niche Products
Delivery time is same day

8. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Market Size 2013 30,000 million square meters
Growth per year 1-2%
Digital Market 2013 330 million square meters
Growth Digital per year 24%
Market Statistics
Total Digital Rot/flat
Year Mio sq mt Mio sq mt Mio sq mt
2013 30,000 310 29,690
2014 30,360 384 29,976
2015 30,724 477 30,248
2016 31,093 591 30,502
2017 31,466 733 30,733

9. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Methods of Textile Printing
•Block, Brush, Spray
•Stencil / Table
•Roller
•Screen
• Flat Bed
• Rotary
•Transfer
•Digital/ Inkjet

10. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
The Essential Elements
Process oriented
• Fabric
•Pre-Treatment
•Ink
•Post-treatment
Technology oriented
•Fabric Feed System/
Printer
•Print head
•Software -RIP

11. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Print methods
Too much capacity: how
many companies can sell
more than 3 million
meters of digital printed
fabric that still costs
more than 200 Rs/meter?
Up to 3 mio meters per
year, multiple scanning
machines are the most
cost-effective solution

12. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Ink Chemistry
Acid
Reactive
Disperse
Pigment

13. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Comparison of the Print Process

14. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
The Digital Advantage
• Advantages
 No minimums
• On demand manufacturing
• Efficient sampling
• No repeat size
• No limit on colours
• No colour kitchen
• No screen engraving
• No screen warehousing
• No limit on design size
• Flexible design possibilities
• Superior design resolution
• Reduced waste
• Reduced manpower
• Consistent quality
• Reduction in Water and Carbon Footprint
• Disadvantages
• ????????????

15. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Is the Process Green?

16. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Future trend

17. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
What is at Stake?
1. Complete Paradigm shift !
• Creative freedom for
Designers with no color
limitations.
• Easy, flexible and eco-
friendly way of production.
2. Opportunities!

18. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Needed change- Education
• Digital printing is yet not given the due
importance in educational institutes.
• Production in today’s environment is
managed by machine “operators” with no
exposure to textiles.
• Textile printers have little knowledge or
inclination towards digital printing.
 This must change. Focus is necessary in
formal education sector to teach different
aspects of this new technology.

19. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Problems perceived by Designers
Consistency in Quality
Colours not the same
Colours not vivid enough
Fastness of print

20. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
• Invest in right technology –
• CMYK is not enough. 8 colors needed.
• Speed is not the only panacea, Speed must
always be evaluated at sufficient inking
rates for each primaries.
• For some fabrics, it requires about 18 – 20
gm/m2
per color to achieve coloration similar
to conventional printing.
• One pass vs Multiple pass.
• High DPI, how high is high enough?
Making choices – Printing machine

21. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Making choices – Precoat
• Maximize color yield, given the limited quantity of
ink that can be jetted at particular resolution.
• Handle large ink volume laid down at high speed
printing
• Controls penetration when printing with high
viscosity inks at high printing speeds - brighter
colours.
• Soft handle and maintain whiteness and strength of
the fabric.
• Better levelness of colour
• Maintains the definition of the drop- sharper prints
and better image quality.

22. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Making choices – Chemistry
• Is cheap ink really cheap?
• A Good ink can -
• Provide Good coloration
• Reliable jetting and printing
performance
• Longer print head life.
• Higher printing speeds ( by able to
jet at higher frequencies).
Choose your ink supplier carefully.

23. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Making choices – Software
• Besides speed of processing, one should also look for -
ability
to handle very large images.
• Colour handling, especially light and dark inks.
• Colour management
• Colour profiling
• Ability to handle colour gradations
• Imaging model
• Ability to handle variable drops.

24. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
The Digi Advantage- Technology
Shorter print runs
Lesser inventory risks
Production to match shorter fashion
cycles
Unlimited Colour-ways
No repeat length limitation

25. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Situation as it exists now
Current Status:
• Designs in 8-12 colours
• Decisions at the production level
•without the customer being involved
In spite of reduction designs/order mts ,the sale is
through material in stock
Choice to customer, limited to what is offered by
the manufacturer
What has changed today with Digital
printing in India:
•Little better designs
•better inventory control
•better production planning
•faster response time due all the above

26. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Digiprint the way Forward
Designer becomes the creative link between the
business and the technician and do “Uninhibited
Thinking”
A Quantum Leap possible only with customer
involvement
Idea is to
• Engage the customer
• Enhance the customer experience
• Produce on demand

27. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Customer Involvement
Key factor is to engage (all the stake
holders ) each and every one in the
value chain
In fact billion people have billion
choices and with this technology it is
possible for Individualistic satisfaction
The future would be to sell on demand
with mass customisation

28. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Printing: transferring the talent of the designer
Technology alone is never enough
Along with it Design and Aesthetics is a must

29. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
What sells as a design: Newness,concept, theme

30. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Satya Paul: Masaba Gupta

31. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Satya Paul: Masaba Gupta

32. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Satya Paul: Masaba Gupta

33. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Needed change- Mind set
Traditional Printer “what it cant do”
Designers, textile artists, fine artists- this
technology is about “what it can do” to
never before products and services
Unlimited repeat sizes, tonal graphics,
engineered designs that cross seam lines,
quicker samples, customization and short
run production

34. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Digital as a Designer sees it
• Unlimited colours
• No repeats
• No screens

35. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
New Designs- Flexibility
• Unlimited use of colours
• Extreme tonal/ extreme fine
• Traditional hand painting
• Simulation
• Graphic
• Digital effect
• Trick of the eye
• Photography
• High Definition
• Novel to Subtle
•Tactile

36. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Unlimited Colours

37. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Unlimited Colours

38. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Mary Katrantzou

39. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Water colours- tones

40. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Fine Tones

41. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Fine Lines and miniatures

42. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Converting hand printing - Chintz

43. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Chintz

44. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Home Furnishings

45. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Bruno Brass,Brazil and
Christopher Brooke,UK
Combination of old tradion and
new technology.A clash of
aesthetics create a nnew style
and new experimentation

46. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Alexander McQueen

47. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Royal Portraits

48. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Simulation

49. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Graphics

50. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Digital

51. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Digital Effect

52. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat

53. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Nicolette BrunklausTrompe l'oeil

54. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Trompe l'oeil

55. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Mary KatrantzouTrompe l'oeil

56. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Engineered

57. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Engineered

58. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Photography

59. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
High Definition

60. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Novel to Subtle
Designs don’t look like
digital though they have
the quality that only digital
prints can have

61. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
Add Tactile quality to the print

62. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat

63. .
KITL
September 2014
BDSomani
Dr Sanjiv Kamat
sykamat@kothariinfotech.com