The document provides details about the weaving process from warping to final folding of the woven fabric or towel. It involves key steps like warping, sizing, drawing-in, looming, and folding. Warping involves winding yarn parallel onto beams. Sizing adds size to strengthen the yarn. Drawing-in threads the yarn through heddles and reed according to the weave pattern. Looming uses looms like Sulzer or air jet to weave the warp and weft yarns. Folding inspects and packs the final woven product.

1. Weaving Department
WEAVING PROCESS
INTRODUCTION
The yarn has to pass through various stages before it can be woven on looms.
Weaving means to covert yarn in to grey cloth. For this it passes from following
processes.
 WARP
 WEFT
Warping
Warping
Drawing-IN
Sizing
Knotting
Looming
Folding

2. The warping process consists in winding of a known number of warp threads of a
specified length parallel to each other on a wrappers beam. The total no of ends
in a cloth to be produced are too many. In order to be able to collect all these
ends on weavers beam, wrappers beams or sectional wrapper have to be
prepared on the machine which has limitations according to the capacity of creel
or width of section in case of sectional warping machine. The objectives of
warping are:
 Deduction of spinning faults
 To take required number of thread on warping beam
 To provide feed for sizing process
Weaving department demands the required no. of count yarn. The yarn cones
are checked with the help of ultraviolet box for deduction of count mixing. The
cones are mounted on creel and each thread is passed through warp stop hook
(lever) to the expandable comb mounted on the head stock portion the maximum
capacity of cone is 768 on the creel. Then the combs are filled per end per dent.
The no. of threads on a warping beam depends upon requirement. After passing
the guide roller, ends are rolled over warping beam.
During the process of warping the different problems held which are
 Cut On Cone
 Bad Spieling
 Weak Yarn

3.  Fluff
 Spare Ends
 Cone Short
 Laps On Cone
 Hairiness
 Contamination
These faults are noted in the daily basis register to maintain the quality.
Warp calculations
Warp calculations are performed as follow,
Cone length = cone weight x 840x count
Cone remainder = 2% of actual length
Total ends = ends/inch x total width
Ends per beam = total ends / no. of beams
The standard of breakage
 Cotton 52:48, 60:40, 45:55
 Polyester 65:35, 70:30, 77:23
Sizing
Basically, sizing is a process to apply a protection to the body of yarn which
enables it to handle the various stresses, strains. In other words, enhancing
yarns strength and elasticity is a need in the process of weaving. The full
compliment of ends necessary for manufacture of the particular fabric is

4. accumulated on the weavers beam. Well sized yarn is already half woven the
good sizing results start at warping stage.
In CTM, Sizing consists of 4 major parts. Which given below
Creel Portion
The beams are placed over creel with the help of beam lifter. To stop the motion
of warp beams, hydraulic breaks are installed with proper resistance on all
beams.
Capacity of warp beams on creel = 16 (can also be extended up to 19)
Sow Box (Size Box)
To avoid the complication in order to separate the sized yarn from each other,
no. of threads is placed between the lairs of threads from each beam. These
threads are removed after the completion of sizing process, but before passing
through the lease. First of all yarn passes through guide rollers, and then dip
rollers which dip the yarn in size solution. After that the yarn passes through the
pair of squeezing roller, and is squeezed by that so the excess solution is
removed from the yarn. In CTM double size box machine is being operated.
Drying
In Drying, yarn is passes through the drying cylinders to dry the sized yarn.
These dry cylinders are coated by Teflon, which reduces heat without reducing
the temperature. Size content in the sized yarn is controlled by speed
adjustment. Sensing units control the speed and steam pressure in the drying

5. cylinder section. Finally reduce the hairiness of yarn by applying wax. Then yarn
passes through lease portion which separate the threads from each others.
Head Stock
The comb separates threads, regulate the width of yarn sheet according to the
size of beam. In beam, the no. of threads per dent is filled equally so that there
could be symmetry in sized beam. The distance between any two fingers of
comb is called dent. The function of PIV also maintains, control the speed with
the increase in weight. Due to increase in beam, the weight of beam also
increased PIV also maintain the speed. Lorry tension helps to role a thread on
beam keeping in tight press from maximum length to be rolled over beam. It
works manually & automatically. On the completion of weaver beam some
hints/specification on the beam noted.
 Quality
 Total ends
 Total length
 Operator / shift I/C
 Beam number
 Shift no.
Sizing material
Chemical is used in sizing is as followed
 Water

6.  Starch
 P.v.a
 Size cb / size ct
 Sico d52 (wax)
 Polytax
 Deformer
Drawing in
After sizing the weavers beam is passed on to drawing-in section where the
individual end is drawn through the individual eye of he healed according to the
draft plan and through the dents of the reed according to a preplanned
construction of fabric i.e. 2, 3 or 4 ends through the individual dent. The jobs in
this section include leasing, drawing tying, dropper pinning etc. automatic
knotting machine is used for knotting purpose.
The following items are used in drawing in process.
 Dropper
 Heald Frame
 Reed
Dropper
Dropper is the most important in drawing in. it is made of steel, and has a small
eye to enter the yarn in it. Due to breakage, it is used to stop the machine
automatically.

7. Heald Frame
Heald frames are responsible to provide shed for picking purpose. The space
between two layers of war yarn is called shed. In order to produce quality fabrics
with out missing ends the warp sheet must be controlled according to weaving
plan. A combination is used to pass the yarn in heald wires. First we pass the
yarn in one and two, then three and four and last five and one. Then again two
and three and five. The process is completed.
Reed
Reed provides the required no. of warp ends per inch. It is used for beating up
purpose in loom also, where the healds wires give the space to pass the yarn.
Then after this process the reed hits it and weft insertion process is completed in
the way. In CTM reeds which are being used are of different count and space
according to the requirement of quality.
Reed Count = end/inch - contraction
Weave
Reed Space = Cloth Width + Contraction
Contraction =3xPick/Inch
Weft Count

8. Looming
Looming is the process, which is used during the conversion of sized yarn into
grey fabric. Loom is used for continuous fabric formation. The loom can be
classified in to shuttle, micro shuttle or projectile, rapier and jet type of loom.
Parts of loom
 Heald Frame
 Reed
 Accumulator
 Cone Box
 Harness Lever
 Main Motor
 Emery Roller
 Dropper
 Take-Up
 Let-Off
Kinds of looms
 Sulzer
 Air Jet

9. Sulzer
Sulzer loom being used in CTM are made by Japan. It consists of various sizes
as 110”, 130”, 143’’ and 153”. Sulzer loom is used to make relatively heavy
quality fabric.
Mechanism
First of all, the weaver’s beams are placed in the stand of machine. Then the
next yarn process is already completed in drawing-in unit. The most important
factors of loom are that the dropper works as to stop the machine automatically,
whether the yarn is broken. Then after this process, heald frame are responsible
to provide shed for picking purpose.
Reed works for beating up purpose in loom also. When the heald wire gives the
space to pass the yarn. After this process the reeds hit it and weft insertion
process is completed in this way. Different size reeds are used according to the
count and requirement of quality. After passing this process the grey fabric is
rolled over the beam.
Three lights are used in sulzer machine as indicators.
 Red light is used for indication of mechanical fault
 Blue light is used for indication of warp breakage stop.
 Yellow light is used for indication of weft breakage stop.
Folding (fabric)

10. First of all the fabric beams are received in folding and then are converted into
loose position. Before converting into compact form all related specifications are
mentioned over the beam with chalk.
 Loom number
 Shift number
 Quality number
 Per shift production
Then it is sent to the inspection area. The fabric is checked on the examine table
consists of lights under the screen. All possible faults are tried to be removed
there. A chart is also used to mention the faults, and if the deducted points are
001 - 100 the fabric is “a” grade
100 - 225 the fabric is “b” grade
225 - Plus the fabric is rejected
So many problems are indicated in tube light stand, some faults are related to
spinning and some are related to weaving. All the possible faults are removed
here. A solution is also used to remove the normal faults and stains.
So that the quality of fabric becomes stable, after completion the checking, fabric
is sent to the packing room, where the bundle of fabric is pressed and packed in
polythene bags. Then it is packed again in polythene bags. Some pieces of wood

11. are also used to press the bags. After completion the process these bags are
sent to
Air Jet
It is made of Japan, and having width size of 95”. These looms are being used to
produce towel.
Towel Machine
Air jet looms are made of Iwama Japan. Its width is 95”. Air jet loom is used to
make the towel in CTM. The weft is inserted in air jet loom by mean of air.
Two beams are used in towel loom.
 Pile beam
 Ground beam
Speed
It drives at 400 rpm.
Lights
Following lights are used for different purposes.
 Red for pile beam
 White for ground beam
 Green for weft yarn
 Yellow for roll completion
 Pink foe maintenance fault
Mechanism

12. The weft insertion system of air jet loom is based on air pressure. That means
the weft yarn moves from picking side to receiving side with the help of air
pressure. In these machines the droppers are not used in drawing in section.
After fitting the beam in machine, then yarn is passed through droppers. The
process is slightly different from sulzer machine. In this the pole makes after
every three picks. Three accumulators are working in this machine. The yarn is
passing through the accumulator is of three kinds.
 16 cotton
 20 double
 viscous
The design programmed of towel is already feed in computer. An electronic
dobby is also used in towel machine which programmed is feed in computer, the
parts of machine work as same as that programmed. Two filler are also used in
machine.
Filler no. 1
When the yarn reaches in filler no. 1, then the machine remains in working.
Filler no.2
When the yarn reaches in filler no. 2, then the machine stops.
An electronic based take up system is used in air jet. The leno type selvedge is
used in towel. After that process the towel is rolled over the wooden roller, and is
sent to the folding department.

13. Towel Folding
The main function of towel folding is to inspect the towel coming from the loom.
The purpose is this whether it is according to the required specification & quality
suggested by the customer or not. Here no of picks/inch, pile density & ground
thread density is checked. Beside this miss pick, cut pick, broken pile thread and
ground thread & other facts are verified. If any problem is created in towel, then it
is given “B” grade, if any of the following occurs. Otherwise it is declared “A”
grade, which is required measure. After checking the towel, it is folded and
packed into polythene bags. At the end it is sent to the godown.