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HAIR DAMAGE Dr Ali Naqi Syed Presented to Hair Dressing Lecturers, UK www.dralisyed.com July 3, 2008
Hair Damage ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Damage from Combing & Brushing – Lifting of Cuticles
Auto Hair Combing System
Auto Hair Combing System
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Shampoo Damage -  Continued ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Untreated and Swollen Cuticles: Untreated Cuticles Swollen Cuticles
Shampoo Damage - Summary ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Shampoo Damage -  continued ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Impact of Shampooing on Human Scalp ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Draize Skin Irritation Scale for Chemicals   Source: Schoenberg. Drug and Cosmetic Industry, November 1983
Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine.
Skin Irritation of Detergents Source: Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine .
Skin Irritation Scores of Certain Detergents
EFFECT OF ETHOXYLATED DETERGENTS ON SKIN IRRITATION ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Foam Comparison Source: McIntyre Group, University Park, IL. USA
Draize – Eye Irritation Ranking of Detergents Source: McIntyre Group, University Park, IL USA
 
Skin Irritation of Non- Sulfated Detergents ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Case for Sulfate and Amide Free Shampoos ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Recommended Sulphate-Free Shampoo Formulation ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Hair Damage From Various Chemical Processes ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
 
A: PERMANENT  HAIR  RELAXING
 
Cuticular-Lipids Change to Their Salts  that are Water Soluble ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Untreated Hair - 1 Phase
Hair Treated with Conditioner - 2 Imaging Conditions Scanner:  basic scan head (70  m)  Imaging mode:  dynamic-force mode  AFM probe used:  ACLA Post Processing:  SPIP Profile:  Y=8um Phase
Hair Treated with SS Relaxer - 3 Imaging Conditions Scanner:  basic scan head (70  m)  Imaging mode:  dynamic-force mode  AFM probe used:  ACLA Post Processing:  SPIP Profile:  Y=6um Phase
Permanent Changes in Hair Fibers During & After Relaxing/Lanthionization ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Permanent Changes in Hair Fibers During & After Relaxing/Lanthionization ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Longitudinal and Radial Cracks
Longitudinal Cracks Due to Chemical Treatments
Longitudinal crack extending the entire length of fiber
pH of Hair & Scalp at Various Stages During The Relaxer System Statistically Significant
0.0 2.0 4.0 6.0 8.0 10.0 12.0 14.0 pH 1 2 3 4 5 6 Stage of process Hair pH Changes - Relaxing Process Before  application  of product After  application  of Protecto After  application  of relaxer After  rinsing of  relaxer After rinsing  5 in 1  Conditioner After rinsing  of  Normalizing  Shampoo
0.0 2.0 4.0 6.0 8.0 10.0 12.0 14.0 pH 1 2 3 4 5 6 Stage of process Scalp pH Changes - Relaxing Process Before  application  of product After rinsing  5 in 1  Conditioner After  rinsing of  relaxer After  application  of relaxer After  application  of Protecto After rinsing  of  Normalizing  Shampoo
Porosity of Hair Treated with Various Chemical Processes
Comparison of  Elasticity After Various Relaxers ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Comparison of Porosity After Various Chemical Processes
 
Damage To Scalp Barrier During Relaxing - Corneometery Statistically Significant
Damage To Scalp Barrier During Relaxing Process- TEWL Statistically Significant
Ref: 141-68 to72 Loss of Cuticles during Relaxing
B: HAIR LIGHTENING
 
Definition of Hair Lightener ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Lightening Process ,[object Object]
Untreated Brown Hair with Melanin Granules Melanin Source: Zaviak (1986). Science of Hair Care.
Lightening Process (Cont.) ,[object Object]
Hair After Lightening or Melanin Removal Empty Spaces Adpted from Zaviak (1986). The Science of Hair Care.
Chemical Changes in the Structure of Hair During Lightening ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
[object Object],Chemical Changes in the Structure of Hair During Lightening Process (Cont.)
Experimental ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Experimental ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Competitive Lightener F’ A Paste Like Rough Mixture MoisturColor Powder Lightener. A Creamy Smooth Mixture
Experimental - continue ,[object Object]
ELASTIC STRENGTH OF HAIR  (0.50% cyclical elongation)*
Mechanism of  Oil Moisturizing Lightener
De-swelling While Lightening Polyhydric   Molecules
FS OILS in Hair Cortex FSO
Mechanism (Cont.) ,[object Object]
Conclusions ,[object Object]
C:  PERMANENT HAIR STRAIGHTENING WITH THIOLS
Straightening Process ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
 
Hair Damage From Thiol Straightening ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
D:  PERMANENT HAIR COLORING
 
Hair Damage From Permanent Hair Colors ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Elasticity of Hair with Various Shades
E:  THERMAL STRAIGHTENING AND BLOW DRYING
HAIR ELASTICITY AFTER FLAT IRONS AND BLOW DRYING
F:  HAIR DAMAGE FROM UV EXPOSURE
UV – Hair Damage  ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
UV Damage ,[object Object]

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