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DISSERTATION
ON
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW
SUBMITTED BY:
MOHD FIROZ
M.ARCH, SEMESTER-III
(RECREATION ARCHITECTURE)
GUIDED BY:
AR. RUKNUDDIN MIRZA
FACULTY OF ARCHITECTURE & EKISTICS
JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA
NEW DELHI-110025
2015-2016
i
ii
Faculty of Architecture & Ekistics,
Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi.
CERTIFICATE
In the partial fulfilment of M. Arch degree program, this is to certify that „Mohd
Firoz‟ has worked on the Dissertation project entitled “Reviving the food
street of Lucknow, Case of Chowk, Lucknow” under my guidance and
supervision.
Ar. Ruknuddin Mirza Prof. S. M. Akhtar
Guide Dean
Ar. Roomi Gilani Ar. Abdul Halim Babbu
Co-ordinator Head of Department
External Examiner
iii
DECLARATION
I Mohd Firoz hereby declares that the Dissertation entitled “Reviving the
food street of Lucknow” submitted in the partial fulfilment of the
requirements for the award of the degree of Masters of Architecture is my
original research work and that the information taken from secondary sources
is given due citations and references.
[Signature]
Mohd Firoz
M.Arch, Sem-III
Date: 20th
Jan‟16
2015-16
Place: New Delhi-25, India.
iv
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
All praise is to ALLAH, the Almighty, the most Beneficent, and the most
Merciful who bestowed upon me the courage, patience and strength to begin
this work and carry it to its completion. I express my thanks to HIM and bow
my head before HIM in gratitude.
I would like to thank my guide Ar. Ruknuddin Mirza; for helping me out on
every step of this journey and for the valuable guidance that helped me to
improve my work and helped me throughout to bring this Dissertation to its
final form.
Then I would like to thank my Parents who stood by me under all
circumstances. And for all those efforts and determinations without which the
final stage seems to be impossible I would like to thank all my friends.
And last but not the least, I would like to thank all of those who kept me in their
prayers.
v
ABSTRACT
Lucknow not only reminds of its Nawabi architecture, culture and craft but
also gives us a good impression of cuisines.
Lucknow cuisines had attended a world class fame, but lacks behind in
providing a world class ambience for the public. Here in Lucknow the
cuisine especially of old Lucknow have a unique identity and individuality,
reflecting the richness and royalty of the past.
This dissertation analysis the present scenario of famous eateries of old
Lucknow and problem they are facing. The ignorance to these problems
further leads for the socio-economic and socio-culture impacts for the city.
The purpose of this dissertation is to provide suggestions so that the
cuisine of Lucknow can be conserve and emerge as an another big tourism
sector for Lucknow Tourism.
The work done in the dissertation in a way towards solving the issues of,
less tourism, traffic congestion, encroachment, lack of parking spaces,
façade deterioration, and losing the identity with respect to cuisine heritage
i.e., including both veg and non-veg cuisine . Relocating or, proposing
another food hub especially for tourist with in the heritage vicinity might
also solve major issues. This will not only benefit the Local people but will
also increase the tourism in this sector (food tourism). The basic idea of
the dissertation is to raise the charm of cuisines for the public so that it
does not lose its integrity.
vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………...………..1
1 Introduction …………………………………………….………….………….2
1.1 Aim………. ……………………………………………….……….…………..2
1.2 Objectives…………………………………………………..………………….2
1.3 Scope and Limitations…………………………………….…….……………3
1.4 Methodology………………………………………………..….………………3
2. Area of Study:Lucknow….......………………………………......…………….4
2.1 Introduction…………………………………………………….……………...5
2.2 Location…………………………..…………………………..……..…………5
2.3 Historic Evolution of City……………………………………………………..6
2.4 Geography and Climate………………………………………………………8
2.5 Regional Linkage……………………………………………………………...9
2.6 City Profile……………………………………………………………………..9
2.7 Socio-Cultural Aspect…………………………………………………...... 9
2.8 Socio-Economic Aspect…………………………………………………….11
3. Cuisine Of Lucknow…………………………….…….…………………… 12
3.1 Origin of Cuisines in Lucknow............................................................ 13
3.2 Preperation of Cuisine……………………………………….....…...…. 16
3.3 Traditional Cuisines………….………………………………….....…. 17
3.4 Traditional Spices…………………………………………...…………. 20
3.5 Traditional Utensils……………………………………………………….. 21
3.6 The Lucknow Food Trail…………………………………………………. 23
3.7 List of Lucknawi Recipies……………………………………………….. 25
3.8 Types of Breads (Roti)…………………………………………………… 34
3.9 Desserts…………………………………………………………………… 35
3.10 Chaat…………………………………………………………………… .35
3.11 Important Terminology in Lucknawi Cooking………………………. 36
3.12 List of Avadhi Dishes…………………………………… …………… 38
vii
3.13 Difference between Awadhi and Mughlai Cuisine……………………. 41
4. Case Study: Chandni Chowk ………...……………………….….… ..…..42
4.1 Background Description ……………….……………………..……...….43
4.2 Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk…………….…….………..…...… 44
4.3 Site Analysis…………………………….………...…………………....… 46
4.4 Issues……………….………….…………..............................……… .49
4.5 .Recommendations …………………………………..……………...… .49
5. Site Study: Chowk, Lucknow.................................................................. 51
5.1 Background Description………… …………………………………… 52
5.2 Site Location…………………………………………………………….. 52
5.3 Demography……………………………………………………………. 53
5.4 Importance of Chowk…………………………………………………. 53
5.5 Cuisine of Chowk…………………………………………….………… 54
6. Issues and Strategies …………………………………………….……… 67
7. Conclusion……………………………………………...……….…………. 72
References…………………..…………………………………..……….……… 73
Bibliography………………………………………...………..….……………… 74
viii
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1: Lucknow City Map, Source:www.mapofindia.com..................... 5
Figure 2: Location map of Uttar Pradesh. Source: wikimedia.org ................................. 5
Figure 3: Bada Imambada built in 1784. Source: www.trodly.com.............................. 6
Figure 4: Residency built in 1780-1800. Source: gettohimanshu.wikipedia.com.......... 7
Figure 5: Hazratganj in 1971 Source: www.lucknowbookclub.com.............. 8
Figure 6: Lucknow regional connectivity Source:www.lucknow.nic.in......................... 9
Figure 7: Asifi Mosque, Imambada. Source:www.tripoto.com.............................. 9
Figure 8: Courtesy of Lucknow. Source:www.dnaindia.com .........................10
Figure 9: Legecy of Dance and Music. Source: pinterest.com ..................................10
Figure 10: Lucknow Chikan Work. Source:www.lucknowchikan.com.................10
Figure 11: Kakori Kebab. Source www.scribe.com:..............................14
Figure 12: Laziz Lauki. Source:www.scribe.com ................................18
Figure 13: Bhagona. Source: www.nishienterprise.com .................21
Figure 14: Deg/Degchi. Source:www.heritageartscoachin.com.............21
Figure 15: Aluminium Kadai . Source:www.dsource.in ...................................22
Figure 16: Aluminium Lagan. Source:www.zaaiqa.net ...................................22
Figure 17: Iron Tandoor. Source:www.rameshtandoor.com ...................22
Figure 18: Mahi Tawa. Source: www.team.bhp.com...........................22
Figure 19: Brass Plate (Seeni). Source:www.omanisilver.com..........................23
Figure 20: Image o Khaste Mathura Aloo. Source:khanapakana.com ................................27
Figure 21: Image of Masala Bhindi Source:www.Khanakhazana.com.....................29
Figure 22: Image of Khatta Meetha Kadoo Recipe. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com......30
Figure 23: Lucknow Kofta. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com......................31
Figure 24: Sweet Rice Pudding. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com ....................33
Figure 25: Master Plan Representing Chandni Chowk Road, Delhi.................................43
Figure 26: Activity Pattern at Chandni Chowk......................................................................46
ix
Figure 27: Activity pattern at Red Fort Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu
Dalal.............................................................................................................................................47
Figure 28: List of Activities on Chandni Chowk Street; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar.
Abhimanyu Dalal .........................................................................................................................47
Figure 29: Activities pattern at Fountain Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar.
Abhimanyu Dalal .........................................................................................................................47
Figure 30: Activities between Gurudwara and Town Hall; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by
Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal....................................................................................................................48
Figure 31: Activities pattern at Fatehpuri Masjid Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by
Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal....................................................................................................................48
Figure 32: Activities at Town Hall Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu
Dalal.............................................................................................................................................48
Figure 33: Proposed MV Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal49
Figure 34: Proposed Parking and Motorized vehicle Circulation; ; Source: UTTIPEC
Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal .........................................................................................50
Figure 35: Proposed NMV Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu
Dalal.............................................................................................................................................50
Figure 36: Proposed Tram Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu
Dalal.............................................................................................................................................50
Figure 37: Location of Chow in Lucknow City. Source:www.googlemaps.com ..............52
Figure 38: Chowk Foundry, Lucknow. Source:www.googlemaps.com ...............52
Figure 39: Plan of Idris ki Shop. .............................................................................................54
Figure 40: Image showing parking on road and shop.........................................................54
Figure 41: ground floor Plan of Mubeens Shop ...................................................................55
Figure 42: Image showing interior of Mubeens....................................................................55
Figure 43: Parking in front of Mueens ...................................................................................56
Figure 44: Beetle shop of Izhar Bhai .....................................................................................56
Figure 45: Image Showing Azhar bhai ki Beetle Shop .......................................................56
Figure 46: Plan of Raees Bread Shop...................................................................................57
Figure 47: Old shop of Mohd Raees view from Akbari gate road. ....................................57
Figure 48: Bread shop view from alternate lane..................................................................57
x
Figure 49: Shahid Chicken Biryani Restaurent....................................................................58
Figure 50: Plan of New Mubeen Restaurant ........................................................................58
Figure 51: Front view of New Mubeen Hotel ........................................................................59
Figure 52: Entrance of New Mubeen.....................................................................................59
Figure 53: Interior of New Mubeens, 1..................................................................................60
Figure 54: Interior of New Mubeens ,2..................................................................................60
Figure 55: Plan of Jaan Sheermal Corner ............................................................................61
Figure 56:Jann Sheermal Corner and bike parking in front of shop.................................61
Figure 57: Tunday kababi Shop .............................................................................................62
Figure 58: Plan of Tundey Kababi..........................................................................................62
Figure 59: Tundey Kabaki shop from ourside Source:www.finechopped.net.....................62
Figure 60: Plans of Rahim Hotel ............................................................................................63
Figure 61: Exterior of Rahim hotel .........................................................................................63
Figure 62: Logo of Rahims......................................................................................................63
Figure 63: Seating area in Rahims ........................................................................................63
Figure 64: Cash counter of Rahims .......................................................................................63
Figure 65: Position of shop with Gol Darwaza (Gate).........................................................64
Figure 66: Front view of Radhey Lal Parampara Sweets...................................................64
Figure 67: Interior of Radhehy Lal Sweets ...........................................................................64
Figure 68: Sweet pakaging at Radheyy Lal Sweets............................................................64
Figure 69: Image of Makhan malai hawker at Gol Darwaza..............................................65
Figure 70: Shree Lassi Corner on Kamla Nehru Marg .......................................................65
Figure 71: Shree Lassi Corner................................................................................................66
Figure 72: Conceptual Plan of Shree Lassi Corner.............................................................66
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
1
CHAPTER 1:
INTRODUCTION
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
2
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW
1. INTRODUCTION:
Lucknow not only reminds for its Nawabi culture, craft and architecture but
is also known for its impression on cuisine that developed in the city.
Lucknow cuisine had attended its world class fame but lack behind in
providing a world class ambience for the public. In Lucknow especially old
Lucknow had a unique identity and individuality, reflecting the richness
and royalty of the past.
The present scenario of famous eateries in the city is facing problem of
overcrowding and underdevelopment. Most of the places are only known
to the local people, thus promotion is required. These places are losing its
traditional value in the market. Ignorance of which can lead to economic
and social impact on the city.
1.1 Aim:
To provide a suitable solution to raise the charms of cuisine of ―the city of
Nawab‖ Lucknow
1.2 Objectives:
i. To study the historic evolution of food street of Lucknow.
ii. To study the cuisines of Lucknow
iii. To identify the types of food available at Gol Darwaza.
iv. To investigate the types of users of the street.
v. To analyse the strength and weakness of the street with respect to
food consumers and socio-economic aspects.
vi. To identify the limitations of the street in term of urban and socio
economic factors.
vii. To study the govt. approach towards the street.
viii. To investigate the best possible ways which makes the street vibrant
for the users.
ix. Framing methods for rejuvenating the street and suggesting
guidelines for promoting cuisines of Lucknow.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
3
1.3 Scope and limitation:
The scope of this dissertation of is to promote the food tourism of Lucknow.
This dissertation is limited to study the case of Food Street of Lucknow
Case Study: Chowk, Old Lucknow.
1.4. Methodology:
Steps for methodology:
1. A) Literature study of Lucknow‘s cuisine
B) Source: Secondary survey, related book, journals, articles,
dissertation etc.
C) History of cuisines of Lucknow
Type and typology of cuisines
Type of user group
2. A) Case study :Chandni Chowk, Delhi-6
B) Source: DDA, Proposal for development of Chandni Chowk
C) Analyse the data
D) Inferences (steps taken for solution of issues)
3. A) Site study: Chowk, Old Lucknow
B) Source: primary survey
C) Number of cuisines
Type and typology of cuisines
Typology of users of street
Strength and weakness of space-
Urban spaces associated with fooding activities and space
required to facilitate these activities.
D) Analyse
E) Inferences
4. A) Investigating issues, if any.
B) Suggesting applicable methods / ideas for development and
promotion
C) Guidelines for development
5. Conclusion.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
4
CHAPTER 2:
AREA OF STUDY: LUCKNOW
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
5
2.1 INTRODUCTION
Lucknow is the capital of Uttar Pradesh, the most populous state of India. It
had a population of 2,815,601 in 2011.
Located in what historically known as the Awadh region, it has always
been a multicultural city. Courtly manners, beautiful gardens, poetry,
music, and fine cuisine patronized by the Persian-loving Shia Nawabs of
the city are well known.t is popularly known as the city of nawabs. It is also
known as the Golden City of the East, Shiraz-i-Hind and the
Constantinople of India.
In the 18th
century, Lucknow became the capital of Awadh. Under the
patron of the Nawabs, the city flourished as a centre of a unique culture
known for its exotic cuisine and its very rich language and poetry.
From Chowk and Nakkhas to Aminabad and Hazratganj, the eighty-odd
years preceding 1857 saw the emergence of early modern Lucknow.
Rulership was the monopoly of Nawabs and Taluqdars, neither entire
modern nor democratic; tends to emerge of new desires and aspiration for
new social groups. This formed the emergence of complexity in elements
in everyday life in Lucknow. From language and dress to music and
cuisine.1
2.2. LOCATION:
Lucknow is the capital of Uttar Pradesh in India, also the administrative
1
Llewellyn Rosie-“Lucknow -Then and Now”, Ch-Lucknow food street and bazaars.
Figure 2: Location map of Uttar Pradesh.
Source: wikimedia.org
Figure 1: Lucknow City Map,
Source:www.mapofindia.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
6
headquarters of Lucknow district and Lucknow division.
Lucknow is what historically known as the Awadh region at an altitude of
about 128 meters (420 ft.) above the mean sea level and lies on 26.85 N
latitude and 80.92 E longitudes. Well connected to all the four major
regions and cities like Delhi, Kanpur, Jhansi, Varanasi and Gorakhpur etc.
2.3. HISTORIC EVOLUTION:
Lucknow has never been the capita of city of a large and important
kingdom and thus there is no strong urban and architectural expression of
power. Instead it developed through spontaneous additions and accretion
by consecutive rulers over the centuries, the river imposed an order of the
city and important buildings and complexes were located on its banks. The
meandering of the river organized the city structure in a gentle curve.
Lucknow dates back to seventh century BC, though there are no existing
structures from this period the valiant brother of mythological king Ram
Charan, Laxman. There still exists a mound near the river called the
Lakshman ka tila that is a reminder of the city‘s origin.
2.3.1. Pre-British period:
Historic records of Lucknow
are available from 1031 AD
when Lucknow was attacked
by a Muslim King for the first
time. The Afghan military
leader Syed Salar mastuad
attacked the city and the
surrounding area of Awadh
under the rein of Mahmud
Ghazni. Thereafter Lucknow
had a series of Muslim
rulers, several of which were representatives of the Tughlaq and Lodhi
rulers in Delhi at that time.
In 1530, the Afghan ruler in Delhi, Sher Shah Suri established a silver and
Figure 3: Bada Imambada built in 1784.
Source: www.trodly.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
7
copper mint in Lucknow. The city grew rapidly of the time and several
important buildings including the macchi Bhawan and the Panch Mahal
were built. It flourished as a centre for trade and commerce and it added
some new residential areas under the next emperor Jehangir. During the
reign of the king Aurangzeb in Delhi, a mosque was built on the famous
mound, Lakshman ka Tila.
In 1720, Saadat Khan was the appointed ruler of Lucknow and a
representative of one of the Mughal Kings. He founded the Awadh dynasty
and proclaimed himself the Nawab of Awadh; this marked the beginning of
an important time in the history of Lucknow when it was no longer a
subordinate province of Delhi. In 1754, he was succeeded by Nawab
Shuja-ud-daula who refused to transfer revenue to Delhi. He moved the
Capital to Faizabad.
Lucknow became a much smaller town, with two main areas of living one
near Chowk and the other close to Machhi Bhawan. The rest of the city
became overgrown and covered by green area.2
His successor Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula moved the capital back to Lucknow in
1775. He made extensive addition to the city building several building and
gardens. Some of the prominent tourist location in Lucknow today was built
in his reign.
His successor Nawab saadat Ali Khan was announced by the British in
1798 and was succeeded by his son Nawab Ghazi-ud-Din who was
replaced by Mohammed Ali Shah and finally by Wajid Ali Shah (1847-56).
2.3.2. The British period:
The first war of independence
was in 1857. The British were
kept prisoner in the residency
and other English homes for
several days till military support
arrived to help them. The city of
Lucknow was taken over by the
2
Oldenburg,1990
Figure 4: Residency built in 1780-1800.
Source: gettohimanshu.wikipedia.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
8
British east India Company and Wajid Ali Shah had to sign a treaty
surrendering the exclusive governance of his territories. The British
proceeded to make several charges in the city of Lucknow. Two fifth of the
city was demolished. New roads were built and all buildings were
exception of old historic buildings.
2.3.3. After independence:
When India got its
independence in 1947,
Lucknow saw a great
increase in population due to
migration of refugees after
the national partition.
Congestion in older parts of
the city further increased.
Over the decades Lucknow has grown stronger as an administrative town.
The main economic basis of Lucknow has been administrative, judicial and
institutional functions and other services and business they support. Today
Lucknow is listed among the Metro cities in India.
2.4 GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE:
Situated in the middle of the Gangetic plain, Lucknow city is surrounded by
its rural towns and villages viz. the orchard town of Malihabad, Kakori,
Mohanlal Ganj, Gosaiganj, Chinhat, Itaunja. On the eastern side lies
Barabanki District, on the western side is Unnao District, on the southern
side Raebareli District, and on the northern side are Sitapur and Hardoi
districts.3
The Gomti River, the chief geographical feature, meanders
through the city, dividing it into the trans-Gomti and Cis-Gomti regions.
Lucknow city is located in the seismic zone III.
Lucknow has a warm humid subtropical climate with cool, dry winters from
December to February and dry, hot summer from April to June.
3
Lucknow city profile
Figure 5: Hazratganj in 1971
Source: www.lucknowbookclub.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
9
2.5. REGIONAL LINKAGE:
Lucknow is well connected with the city
around it by road, railways and International
and domestic airways. It has direct
connection with Kanpur, Faizabad, Sitapur
and Allahabad, both by rail and road.
2.6 CITY PROFILE:
Lucknow started its beginning as an administrative service base and it
continues so even today. The city clearly has a middle class bias as a
predominantly working class population. Around 20% of the total retail
shops of Lucknow are concentrated in Chowk, Aminabad and Hazratganj,
the major commercial areas of the city. Master plan 2001 proposed
residential use up to 66% of the total land areas, which reveals an alarming
housing demand in the city.
2.7 SOCIO CULTURE ASPECT:4
2.7.1 Sham-e-Awadh
Sham-e-Awadh was famous and
much has been written about its
atmosphere of twinkling music
and table with ghungroo, mujra
dance performance and
melodious singing of ghazaland
thumri (a form of classic music)
associated with it. Lucknow even
had its own Music Gharana
(Lucknow Gharana), Bhatkhande Music Institute provides teaching of
music till the date.
4
Abbas SA, “Incredible Lucknow- A Visitors Guide”, http;//Lucknow.me/Shaam-e-Awadh.html.
Figure 6: Lucknow regional
connectivity
Source:www.lucknow.nic.in
Figure 7: Asifi Mosque, Imambada.
Source:www.tripoto.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
10
2.7.2 Aadaab-e-Lucknow:
Rooted within the walls of the old city, the
style has spread its perfume all around and
its traces are vivid in the common way of
speech of the residents of Lucknow,
irrespective of religion, caste and status.
2.7.3 Dance and Music:
Music and dance in Lucknow has been
much influenced by the Mughal rule
India. The kings were known to lead a
life of pleasure and their main source
of entertainment was to indulge in
music and dance. The royal court has
some of the best dancers and
musicians of Lucknow. The
performance in dance & music in
Lucknow was something that was worth watching. Even today, various
artists all over India keep Lucknow music and dance alive.
2.7.4 Craft:
For centuries Lucknow has
been famous for its varous
handicrafts works. The Nawabs
of Awadh were great patrons of
fine arts of which the most well-
known is the exquisite Chikan
work. Chikan is a unique craft involving delicate and artistic hand
embroidery in a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk, chffon, organza,
doriya and organdie.
Figure 8: Courtesy of Lucknow.
Source:www.dnaindia.com
Figure 9: Legecy of Dance and Music.
Source: pinterest.com
Figure 10: Lucknow Chikan Work.
Source:www.lucknowchikan.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
11
2.7.5 Cuisine:
Like various others art forms. The culinary art of Lucknow was also raised
to a fine art under royal patronage. A favourite past time of the nobility of
Awadh was perfecting the art of cooking. The richness of Awadh cuisine
lies not only in the variety of cuisine but also is the ingredient used in
creating such a variety.
2.8 SOCIO ECONOMIC ASPECT:
The major industries in the Lucknow Urban Agglomeration include
aeronautics machine tools, distillery chemicals, and furniture and chikan
embroidery. Lucknow has traditionally been associated with chikan
embroidery work on readymade garment, sarees, etc. with most units
being small scale and house hold bases located in the old city areas.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
12
CHAPTER 3:
CUISINE OF LUCKNOW
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
13
3.1 ORIGIN OF THE CUISINES IN LUCKNOW:
Lucknow is one of the cities which is known for its rich history and culture
manifest not just in its many magnificent monument but an intrinsic part of
its lifestyle. Lucknow emanates a culture that combines emotional warmth,
a high degree of sophistication, courtesy and love for gracious living. What
appeal the most are the cuisines of Lucknow which in some way was a
culmination of all that was best in art, culture and science5
.
The Cuisines of Lucknow were all the food items have their own unique
identity and individuality, with a strong influence of the traditional Mughal
royal cuisine. All the cooks are taught professionally to provide a district
regal look and taste to the food.
The rulers of Awadh engaged in peaceful life, since battle of Buxar and laid
the foundation of a culture which overwhelms the world. Under their
patronage development a cuisine which did not remain the prerogative of
royalty alone. Recipes travelled from the royal kitchen of nobilities and from
there, to the kitchen of ordinary people. Since that time research and
innovations proceeded in the Royal Kitchens where money and time were
no constrained.
Historically the credit to put Lucknow on the gastronomical map of world
goes to the Nawabs- right from its first Nawab Burhan-ul-Malik to Nawab
Wajid Ali Shah. For the statistically oriented, 19 types of Kebabs6
, 37 types
of bread, 35 types of Zarda7
, 47 types of pulao (rice dishes), 37 types of
sweets were created through gastronomical innovations during the reign of
Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula8
.
5
http://www.scribd.com/doc/2030831/Awadhi-Cuisine
6
Kebab- it is prepared in Lucknow from finely ground meat, spiced and fried in the shape and size of
hamburgers.
7
Zerda- a sweet rice dish with saffron and raisins, prepared for special occasions.
8
http://indiandiplomacy.in/meadocument/11200901.pdf, India Perspective
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
14
In the mid-18th
century, in the reign of
Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula, each day food
for the Nawab and Begum came from
six separate kitchens. Firstly there was
Nawab‘s own main kitchen. In this
kitchen two thousand rupees a day
were spent on food which is apart from
the wages of the cooks and other
servants.
The second kitchen was the subsidiary
royal kitchen. Here three hundred rupees were spent on food. The third
kitchen belonged to Bahu Begum. The fourth was the kitchen of Nawab
Begum, Shuja-Ud-Daula‘s mother. All these six kitchens were excellent
and everyday produce the most sumptuous food for the dinner of the ruler9
.
Since the time of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula a very high standard of cooking
was maintained. The very best cooked were enlisted, elaborate efforts
were made in the preparation of foods and innovations were introduced.
Expert cooks from Delhi and other places polished up their skills and
invented new delicacies and special savours.
As the food for Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula‘s came from six different kitchens.
This was not confined to him alone. It continued after his time and the
honour was also according to some chosen nobles and especially to the
royal relations.
There was a practice of special art which produce one particular substance
in several different guises. Such that when placed on the table it looked as
if there were scores of different kind of delicacies, but when one tasted
them they were all the same. For this there was an incident where a Prince
Mirza Asman Qadar, the son of Mirza Khurram Bakht of Delhi, who came
to Lucknow and became Shia, was invited to dine by Wajid Ali Shah.
9
Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Last Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University
Press, Delhi Gastronomy, 28, 155-159
Figure 11: Kakori Kebab. Source
www.scribe.com:
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
15
Before him the cook presented a conserve- Murabba10
. It was looking very
light, tasty and delicious. When Asman Qadar tasted it, he became
intrigued because it was not a conserve at all but a korma, a meat curry
which the chef had made to look exactly like a conserve.
Similarly during the reign of Nasir-Ud-Din Haider, a cook came to Lucknow
who made Khichri11
.
The practice of making delicious food by the cooks in the royal kitchen, the
royals also took interest in the matter of food.
The cooks tried various innovations. So, the emphasis was not just only in
the preparation of food but lots of efforts made for its good appearance and
taste.
With this practice one of the cook invented a pulau which resembled an
anar dana (pomegranate seed) in which half of each grain of rice was fried
red like a ruby and other half was white and sprinkled like a crystal. It looks
as if filled with the coloured jewels.12
It was not royalty alone who pampered their cooks. The nobility,
aristocracy and people of lesser means too maintained well stocked and
well-staffed kitchens from where were turned out the most exotic of dishes.
Begums and ordinaty housewives too preserved in their kitchens and
acquired an excellence that could match the skills of a professional
bawarchi13
.
10
Murabba- A thick highly spiced conserve of vegetables with an oil and vinegar base.
11
Khichri- A simple dish of boiled rice and millets.
12
Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Last Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford
University Press, Delhi. Gastronomy, 28, 155-159
13
Bawarchi-known as cook, cook is person who prepare meals in large quantity.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
16
3.2 Preparation of Cuisines:
According to legend Dum Pukht14
cuisine was discovered when Nawab
Asif-Ud-Daula decreed that the builders of Bara Imam Bara Mosque should
have access to food day and night. Street cooks assembled giant pots,
filled them with rice, meat, vegetables and spices and placed them on
gently simmering fires. The lids were sealed with dough and topped with
hot coals to slow-cook the food and keep iit warm around the clock. When
the Nawab tasted the food during an inspection, he was most impressed
and ordered his chiefs to refine the cooking technique in the royal kitchens.
―Dum Pukht‖, means ‗to breathe‘ and ‗to cook‘. The cuisine owes its
excellence to the fact that the food, sealed in a dish and slow-cooked in its
own juices, retains all its natural aromas and flavour.15
The cooking of food becomes an art during Nawabi reign and at this period
there were three classes of people employed in preparation of food. First
were the scullions who cleaned enormous pots and dished and worked
under the cook. Second was bawarchi, the cook who prepared the meals
in the large quantity. The rakabdar16
, the chef, they were the most expert
and usually cooked in small pots for few people only. The chefs were more
towards presentation and serving of foods.
Normally, one cook does not prepare the entire meal. There are specialists
for different dishes and also a variety of helpers like the degbos who wash
the utensils, the masalchis whogrind the spices and the mehris who carry
14
Dum Pukht- The cuisine of Awadh, India is the original cuisine which introduced Dum Pukht
to the world. Dum’ means to ‘breathe in’ and ‘Pukht’ to ‘cook’. Dum Pukht cooking used a
round, heavy bottomed pot, a handi, in which food is tightly sealed and cooked over a slow
fire. There are main aspects to this style of cooking; ‘roasting’ and ‘maturing’ of a prepared
dish. Dum Pukht food is about aroma, when the seal is broken on the table and the fragrance
of an Avadhi cuisine floats in the air.
15
http://www.scribd.com/doc/1291129/Lucknow-Cuisine
16
Rakabdar- they are the chefs, who were the most expert and usually cooked in small pots
for few people. Traditionally it refers to a highly skilled professional who is proficient in all
aspect of food preparation.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
17
the khwan (tray) to be spread on the dastarkhwan17
.
There were the royal who had their kitchen suoervisors known as daroga-
e-bawarchi khana or mohtamim. This officer‘s seal was put for the
guaranteed quality control.18
3.3 TRADITIONAL CUISINES:
Dastarkhwan, a Persian term, literally means a meticulously laid-out
ceremonial dining spread. It is customary in Awadh to sit around and share
the Dastarkhwan. Laden with the finest and the most varied repertoire of
the khansamas (chefs), the Dastarkhwan of the raeis (the rich) were called
Khasa (special).19
The richness of Awadhi cuisine lies not only in the variety of cuisine but
also is the ingredients used in creating such a variety. The Chefs of
Awadhi transformed the traditional dastarkhwan with elaborate dishes like
kababs, kormas, kaliya, nahari-kulchas, zarda, sheermal, roomali rotis, and
parathas.
The Awadhi/Lucknow dastarkhwan would not be complete unless it had
the following dishes.
a. Qorma (braised meat in thick gravy),
b. salan (a gravy dish of meat or vegetable),
c. qeema (minced meat),
17
Dastarkhwan-it is a table cloth, usually square and yellow in color with verses in Urdu or
Persia printed by wood cut around the edges in black. Food was served on this cloth usually
placed on the floor. This was at the time of Nawabi era; nowadays “Dastarkhwan” literally
means a meticulously laid-out ceremonial dining spread.
18
Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University
Press, Delhi. Gastronomy, 28, 155-159
19
file:///E:/JMI/sem%203/disertation/sites/Awadhi%20cuisine%20_%20Project%20Gutenberg
%20Self-Publishing%20-%20eBooks%20_%20Read%20eBooks%20online.htm
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
18
d. kababs (pounded meat fried or roasted over a charcoal fire),
e. lamb
f. pasinda (fried slivers of very tender meat, usually kid, in gravy)
g. Rice is cooked with meat in the form in the form of a
 pulao,
 chulao (fried rice) or
 served plain.
h. There would also be a variety of rotis.
i. Desserts comprise
 kheer (milk sweetened and boiled with whole rice to a thick
consistency),
 sheer brunj, (a rich, sweet rice dish boiled in milk),
 firni
The menu changes with the seasons and with the festival that marks the
month. The severity of winters is fought with rich food. Payee (Taluqdar of
Jehangirabad would serve it to his friends on several occasions during
winter.
Peas are the most sought after vegetable in Awadh. One can spot peas in
salan, qeema, pulao or just fried plain.
Spring (Sawan) is celebrated with
pakwan (crisp snacks), phulkis (besan
pakoras in salan), puri-kababs and
birahis (paratha stuffed with mashed
dal) khandoi (steamed balls of dal in a
salan), laute paute (gram flour
pancakes—rolled, sliced, and served
in a salan), and jaggery or sugar,
make a dessert called curamba. These dishes come from the rural Hindu
population of Awadh.
Figure 12: Laziz Lauki.
Source:www.scribe.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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Activity in the kitchen increases with the approach of festivals. During
Ramzan, the month of fasting, the cooks and women of the house are busy
throughout the day preparing the iftari (the meal eaten at the end of the
day‘s fast), not only for the family but for friends and the poor. Eid is
celebrated with varieties of siwaiyan (Muharram, since it signifies a sad
state of mind.
Some dishes appear and disappear from the Lucknow dastarkhwan
seasonally, and others are a permanent feature, like qorma, chapatti, and
roomali roti. The test of a good chapatti is that you should be able to see
the sky through it. The dough should be very loose and is left in a lagan
(deep broad vessel) filled with water for half an hour before the chapattis
are made
There was also round roti made up of white flour, normally eaten with non-
vegetarian gravy based dishes. Then sheermal – it is a flatbread of
Lucknow which is flavoured with saffron. The Warqi parathas- these are
crispy parathas cooked in ghee until brown and crisp from both sides20
.
Another dish Nahari-kulchas – this is a popular Lucknow food where
mutton preparation is served with kulhas: Nahari is a meat preparation with
thick spicy gravy, however, originally nehari refer to beef dishes instead of
mutton dishes. The kulchas, are the bread with a delicate layers of a puffy
pastry.
In the traditional cuisine of Lucknow first comes the biryani. ‗Lucknow‘
biryani owes its success to a homogenous blend of spices. Meat cooked
with fragrant spices, combined with rice in layer and finished on dum style.
It is said that world‘s best biryani are sold here. Lucknow and biryani have
almost a symbolic relation for the gourmet.
There have been debates whether Lucknow‘s biryani is an authentic
biryani. Vir Sanghvi, the renowned food writerand journalist, states that:
20
http://www.scribd.com/doc/12914129/Lucknow-Cuisine
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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“Lucknow, it turns out, is pulao country. It is also the place for outstanding
kababs and kormas. And it has the best chaat in the entire country. I went
to Lucknow as part of the great biryani search. But all controversies about
whether Lucknow made a biryani or a pulao were quickly settled. Every
single person I met in Lucknow was clear that Lucknow only dealt in pulao,
not in biryani.
There is no clear distinction between a biryani and a pulao unless you take
the Hyderabadi line that only a biryani made with raw (rather than cooked)
meat is the real thing”21
The next comes the vast varieties of kebabs in the traditional cuisines of
Lucknow, especially the Tundey ke kebab or gelawati kebabs or kakori
kebabs it is said that, these are known for its melt-in-the-mouth, there were
two reasons for being so soft, and the fact was that the Nawabs of
Lucknow were so indolent that they did not want to chew. The second
reason given was that because they were so spoilt, by the time they hit
their twenties, their teeth had rotted away due to drug usage and over-
indulgence in the Lucknow‘s desserts and sweets. The other known
kebabs are shaami kebab, boti kebabs, pasanda kebabs, patili-ke-kebabs,
ghutwa kebabs and seekh kebabs. These kebabs are the honour of the
city Lucknow22
Deserts comprise gullati – rice pudding, kheer- milk sweetened and boiled
with whole rice to thick consistency, sheer brunj – a rice, sweet rice dish
boiled in milk, majaffar – vermicelli tried in ghee and garnished with saffron
and malai gilori and lassi.
3.4 TRADITIONAL SPICES:23
Cuisines of Lucknow had a history. The uniqueness of the tundey kabab
lies in its masalas which is a guarded family secret and prepared by the
women in the family. The flavour and aroma to the food were added with
21
http://blogs.hindustantimes.com/rude-food/2009/04/05/lucknow-diary
22
http://shantanughosh.com/2007/0/of-nawabs-and-kababs.html.
23
Dissertation on “Reviving the cousins of Lucknow” by Asma Hameed,JMI
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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the use of varieties of spices.
The meat is tenderized wirth raw papaya, imbued with over 100 aromatic
and digestive spices for atleast 14 hours, ground over 30 times to a fine
patee-like consistency, made into patties, and then pan-fried.
For Nehari the masala powder prepared in bulk under personal
supervision, using the family secret of grnerations, in which they
incorporated 23 herbs and spices.
Lucknowi Biryani owes its success to a homogenous blend of spices. Meat
cooked with ffragrent spices, and rice is separately boiled in aromatic
spices, then combined with rice in layers and finished on dum is known as
biryani.
Mostly the meat preparation are done by using spices like pepper, cloves,
cardamom, cinnamom, bay leaves, coriander, mint leaves, ginger, onions,
and garlic etc. The premium varietis include saffron. Saffron is also used
as a coloring agent usually in biryani. The kewra water is also used as an
essential essence for food to give an aroma.
3.5 TRADITIONAL UTENSILS:
3.5.1 Bhagona - also known as patili, is
generally of brass with a lid. It is used
when a great deal of sauté is required, or
even for boiling and simmering. It is also
used for preparing Yakhni, Salan or
Korma.
3.5.2 Deg/Degchi – This is a pear-
shaped pot with a lid of brass, copper or
aluminium. The shape of this utensil is
ideally suited for the ‗dum‘ method and is
used for cooking Pulao, Biryani, Nehari.
The shape allows for slow cooking as it
traps all the steam inside the utensil.
Figure 13: Bhagona.
Source: www.nishienterprise.com
Figure 14: Deg/Degchi.
Source:www.heritageartscoachin.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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3.5.3 Kadhai – is a deep, concave
utensil made of brass, iran or
aluminium an is used for deep frying
of snacks like samosa, puri, kachori
etc.
3.5.4 Lagan – Lagan is a traditional
round and shallow copper utensil
with a slightly concave bottom. Used
for cooking whole or big cuts of meat
or poultry especially when heat is
applied from both the top and
bottom.
3.5.5 Lohe ka Tandor- Is typically an iron
tandoor, distinct from the clay tandoor which
is more common in Delhi. It is a dome-
shaped iron oven covered with iron sheet,
used for cooking a variety of bread like-
Sheermal, Taaftan, Bakarkhani etc.
3.5.6 Mahi tawa- Mahi tawa is
Awadhi version of the griddle
shaped like a big round, flat
bottomed tray with raised edges,
used for cooking kababs. Also
used for dishes where heat is
applied from ends, when covered.
Figure 15: Aluminium Kadai .
Source:www.dsource.in
Figure 16: Aluminium Lagan.
Source:www.zaaiqa.net
Figure 17: Iron Tandoor.
Source:www.rameshtandoor.com
Figure 18: Mahi Tawa.
Source: www.team.bhp.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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3.5.7 Seeni- Seeni is a big thali
(round tray) usually used as a lid for
the lagan ormahi tawa when heat is
to be applied from the top. Live
charcoal is placed on it and the heat
is transmitted through it to the food.
Thus the indirect heat has the desired
effect of browning and cooking the
ingredients. All the copper and brass
utensils are almost always used after
‗kalai‘ or tin plating the inside24
All the utensils used for the cuisines in Lucknow are design such that the
heat is trapped into it. Utensils are made either of iron or copper. The food
is cooked in steam, which results in a dum-pukht style. Bone china plates
and dishes are used in Lucknow since the time of Nawabs. Water was
normally sipped from copper or silver katoras and not glasses.
3.6 THE FOOD TRAIL IN LUCKNOW:
The best-known kabab of Lucknow is, of course, the galawati. This is a
melt-in-the-mouth patty of finely-minced mutton or beef marinated with a
host of spices and condiments, then shallow-fried on a large tawa or a
cast-iron girdle fired by charcoal. It pairs well with a roomali roti.
There is this legendary restaurant Tunday Kababi in the old quarters of
Aminabad whose original owners stake claim to having invented this
culinary delight. As the legend goes, chef Haji Murad Ali, a man with just
one arm hence the nom de plume Tunda, invented the galawati in 1905.
At that time he had a small eatery by the same name in the Chowk area,
which was literally a hole-in-the-wall outlet and still exists. The galawati
was first made for an ageing nobleman with no teeth who yearned for
some kebabs.
24
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Awadhi_cuisine
Figure 19: Brass Plate (Seeni).
Source:www.omanisilver.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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Today galawatis are available at a host of places. Tunday themselves have
many franchises, even outside Lucknow. Most of these eateries serve a
mean galawati and more.
Other kababs famous in Lucknow, some of which are made only with
advance notice, include the burras (try them at Shekhawat), kakoris, kalmi,
patili, ghutwa, and pasandas. Food experts say some 45 kababs are
indigenous to Lucknow, which also has its own version of rogan josh.
Vegetarian kebabs include Dalcha Kebab, Kathal ke Kebab, Arbi ke
Kebab, Rajma Galoti Kebab (kidney bean kebab cooked with aromatic
herbs), Zamikand ke Kebab (Lucknowi yam kebabs), etc.
This city has some good fare for vegetarians too. Not that mutton-gluttons
can't dig into them. The vegetarian kababs include Dalcha and paneer, as
also others made of kidney beans, raw jackfruit, Arbi or Colocasia and yam
kebabs.
Mornings are best reserved for the traditional poorie or khasta kachori with
alu-kaddu sabzi. Top it with jalebi and milk that has simmered for hours, or
a glass of lassi. If you have already gorged on nihari-kulcha the previous
day, this is a welcome break.
The vegetarian fare comes alive early evenings when the famous chaats
of Lucknow are in full bloom. The popular chaat joints include Jain, Radhey
Lal, Shukla, Chhappan Bhog, Shree Ram and Jagdish.
Lucknow do have the gol gappas or paani-poories, which locals call
batashas. Here, the casings are filled with a combination of curd and
chutney. A different take from what you get in Delhi, Mumbai or Kolkata.
Also the alu tikkis in Lucknow that are stuffed with some secret masalas
and green peas, as also the crumbling-in-the-mouth khasta tikkis. Another
speciality is the tokri chaat - which looks like a sprouted salad with white,
red, green dressing served in a bird's nest.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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Kulfis are also a must. Finally, a paan does wonders. Even though the city
of Banaras is more famous, don't despair. Lucknow's paans are equally
good and help keep the palate and the momentum going to tuck in more.
3.7 List of top Lakhnavi Recipies:25
1. Galouti Kebab-Non VEG
Recipe by Niru Gupta
Kebabs are an all-time favourite food in Lucknow. Try these delicious
kebabs flavoured with hot spices and peppercorns, sprinkled with lemon
juice.
2. Chicken Shammi Kebab- NON VEG
Recipe by Akhtar Rehman, Foodistan
Juicy chicken kebabs mixed with chana dal and aromatic spices, smeared
with eggs and fried crisp.
3. Sheermal- BREAD
Recipe by Niru Gupta
Golden dough made of flour, sugar, milk and flavored with saffron, cooked
until brown and served brushed with ghee.
4.Dum Murg ki Kacchi Biryani- NON VEG
Recipe by Aditya Bal
Marinated chicken flavoured with saffron, milk and a host of masalas,
combined with rice to cook up a steaming biryani.
5.Kaju Curry-VEG
Recipe by Niru gupta
A Lucknawi delight, your favourite vegetables are cooked with nuts and
khoya gravy, garnished fresh with coriander leaves and served hot!
25
///NDTVFood.htm; access on 26
th
Oct 2015
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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6. Kakori Kebab- NON VEG
Recipe by Niru gupta
These melt-in-your-mouth kebabs are a star of Lucknawi dinner parties!
Minced lamb or mutton is smeared with a luscious marinade of aromatic
spices and grilled beautiful. It derives its name from the city of Kakori on
the outskirts of Lucknow.
7. Dum Aloo Lakhnavi- VEG
Recipe by Andy
Crispy fried potatoes stuffed with paneer and traditional spices, blended
with savory tomato, onion gravy and served hot.
8. Murg Shahi Korma- NON VEG
Recipe by Niru Gupta
Creamy chicken curry, with a distinct nutty taste, laced with piquant spices.
This is one of the traditional royal recipes of the Lucknawi cuisine.
9. Pasanday- NON VEG
Recipe by Niru Gupta
Mutton is cooked till tender in a marinade of fiery spices, gravy and
garnished with cream and almonds. This one is an absolute crowd pleaser.
10.Shahi Tukda with Pineapple- VEG
Recipe by Marut Sikka
Fairly easy to make, Shahi tukda is a rich and delicious blend of saffron
infused milk, bread and pineapple garnished with almonds and pistachios.
11. Lakhnavi Biryani (complete recipe)-Non Veg
Biryani derives from the Persian word Biryani, which means "roasted
before cooking." Biryani is a mixture of basmati rice, meat, vegetables,
yogurt, and spices. Lucknow biryani or awadh biryani is a form of pukki
biryani. Pukki means "cooked." Both meat and rice are cooked separately,
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
27
then layered and baked. The process also lives up to the name biryani in
the Persian meaning "fry before cooking'.
It has three steps. First, the meat is seared in ghee and cooked in water
with warm aromatic spices till tender. The meat broth is drained. Second,
the rice is lightly fried in Ghee, and cooked in the meat broth from the
previous step. Third, cooked meat and cooked rice are layered in a handi.
Sweet flavors are added. The handi is sealed and cooked over low heat.
The result is a perfectly cooked meat, rice, and a homogenous flavor of
aromatic meat broth, aromatic spices and sweet flavors.
The difference between biryani and pullao is that pullao is made by
cooking the meat in ghee with warm aromatic spices until the meat is
tender, then adding rice and cooking in the sealed pot over low heat till
done—but with biryani, the rice is boiled or parboiled separately in spiced
water and then layered with meat curry or marinade (depending on the
type of biryani), then sealed and cooked over low heat until done.
12. Tehri is the name given to the vegetarian version of the dish and is
very popular in Indian homes.
3.7.1 SPECIAL VEGETARIAN RECIPIES 26
1.KHASTE MATHURA ALOO RECIPE
26
http://khanapakana.com/lucknowrecipe; accessed on 26th Oct 2015
Figure 20: Image o Khaste Mathura
Aloo. Source:khanapakana.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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Ingredients
Potatoes, boiled and peeled and cubed 6
Green chillies finely chopped 3
Dry ginger powder
1/2
tbsp
Mango powder 1 tbsp
Red chilli powder to taste 1 tbsp
Turmeric powder 1 tbsp
Sugar 2 tbsp
Cumin seeds 1 tbsp
Asafoetida
1/4
tbsp
Cilantro/corainder leaves chopped 1 cup
Oil or ghee 4
Salt to taste
Method
 Heat oil/ ghee in a heavy pan or wok and add asafoetida and cumin
seeds.
 When they pop, add turmeric, ginger, mango powder, sugar, chilli and
salt.
 Add potatoes and mix to coat the potaoes withthe spices.
 Heat till potatoes brown but turn freqently.
 Sprinkle cilantro or coriander leaves.
 Serve hot with Indian pooris and raita.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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2. MASALA BHINDI RECIPE
Ingredients
Tender okra 1 lb
Onion chopped finely large 1
Ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp
Red chilli powder to taste 1 tbsp
Turmeric powder
1/2
tbsp
Garam masala 1 tbsp
Oil 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Other seasoning
Fried onions from our store
Cloves garlic minced 4
Coconut powder 1 tbsp
Green chilli minced 1
Tamarind juice
1/2
cup
Salt to taste
Method
 Heat oil in a pan and add the chopped onion and fry till it's brown in
colour.
 Add ginger garlic, turmeric, garam masala, chilli powder and salt to
taste. Saute for a minute.
 Add other seasonings and steam for 1 minute.
Figure 21: Image of Masala Bhindi
Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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 Cover and steam till the okra changes color and becomes soft. Serve
hot with parathas and raita
3. KHATTA MEETHA KADOO RECIPE
Ingredients
Yellow pumpkin 400 gms
A pinch of asafoetida
Fenugreek seeds 1/2 tbsp
Grated Ginger 1 tbsp
Green chillies finely
chopped
2 green
Corainder powder 2 tbsp
Turmeric powder 1/2 tbsp
Garam masla powder 1/4 tbsp
Red chilli powder 1 tbsp
Salt to taste
Sugar 2 tbsp
Lemon juice 1 1/2 tbsp
Fresh corainder finely
chopped
Oil 3-4 tbsp
Figure 22: Image of Khatta Meetha
Kadoo Recipe.
Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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Method:
 Heat oil in a kadai or wok. Add Asafoetida, fenugreek seeds.
 Now add ginger. When it turns brown add green chillies and pumpkin and
mix.
 Add salt, turmeric powder, coriander powder, garam masala powder and
red chilli powder and mix well.
 Cover and cook on a medium heat for 10-12 minutes. Stirring occasionally.
 Now add sugar and lemon juice, mix well. Cover and cook for another 10
minutes or until done.
 The pumpkin pieces should look like mashed.
 Garnish with chopped coriander. Serve hot with pooris.
4. LUCKNOW KOFTA
Ingredients
For Koftas
Shredded cabbage 2 cups
Shredded carrots 1 cup
Methi washed and chopped 1/2 cup
Corainder washed and chopped 1/2 cup
Salt to taste
Juice of lime 1
Corn flour or besan 1/2 cup
Figure 23: Lucknow Kofta.
Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
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Red chilli powder 1/4 tbsp
Oil for frying
For curry gravy
Onions finely chopped 2
Tomato pureed large 1
Plain non-fat yogurt 1 cup
Milk 1 cup
Cream 1/4 cup
Turmeric 1/2 tbsp
Corainder powder 2 tbsp
Sugar 1/2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Garam masala powder 1/4 tbsp
Oil 4 tbsp
Almonds, soaked and peeled 12
Poppy seeds 3 tbsp
Melon seeds 3 tbsp
Ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp
Green chillies 3-4
Method
 For koftas, mix all the ingedients of koftas together and divide into equal
portions and shape into long rolls, deep-fry till golden in colour.
 Drain and keep aside. Heat oil in a pan and fry chopped onions till golden
brown.
 Add the grinded ingredients and stir-fry for few minutes.
 Add turmeric powder, corriander powder,sugar and salt. Stir-fry for few
seconds. Stir in tomato puree and cook on high heat, stirring continuously
till oil begins to separate.
 Now add yogurt, milk and cream and cook stirring continuously till oil
begins to separate.
 Add 1 cups of water and bring to boil. Simmer and cook for 5-10 minutes or
until desired consistency.
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 Just before eating, place the fried koftas in a serving dish and pour the hot
gravy over and serve immediately garnished with garam masala powder
and chopped cilantro.
5. SWEET RICE PUDDING RECIPE
Ingredients
Whole milk 4 cups
Sugar 1/4 cup
1/4 cup Rice washed and soaked
in 3/4cup water for an hour and
kept aside with water
Condensed milk 1/2 cup
Golden raisins 2 tbsp
Small piece of nutmeg powder
Almonds balanced and silvered
Green cardamoms powdered 4
Saffron threads soaked in little
warm milk
1/2
tbsp
Dry mango powder 1 tbsp
Method
 Cook the rice in the same water until the rice is fully cooked and water
has dried up.
Figure 24: Sweet Rice Pudding.
Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
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 To the cooked rice add milk. When the milk starts boiling, simmer and
leave the kheer to cook till the milk starts thickening, stirring
occasionally.
 Mash the rice a little, add sugar and condensed milk. Add raisins,
almonds and saffron.
 Boil the mixture one more time.
 Remove from flame; add cardamom powder and nutmeg powder. Keep
aside.
 Allow to cool and then referigerate. Serve well chilled.
3.8 TYPES OF BREADS (ROTI):
Several types of roti are found and named depending either on their
material or preparation method.
Breads made of other grains have descriptive names only, thus we have
Makai ki roti, Jowar ki roti (barley flour roti), Bajre ki roti (bajra is a grain
only grown in India), chawal-ki-Roti (roti of rice flour).
Other bread includes:
Chapati is the most popular roti in India, eaten for breakfast, lunch, or
dinner.
Puris are small and deep fried so they puff up.
Paratha is a common roti variant stuffed with fillings of vegetables, pulses,
cottage cheese, and even minces meat and fried in ghee or clarified butter.
This heavy and scrumptious round bread finds its way to the breakfast
tables of millions.
Rumali Roti is thin bread baked on a convex metal pan. The Urdu word
rumaali means kerchief.
Tandoori Roti is oven-baked thicker bread that can be crispy or chewy.
The Urdu word tandoor means an oven.
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Naan -Naan is thick bread, softer and richer in texture and consistency
than the tandoori roti. It is made from finely ground wheat flour kneaded
into a very elastic mass
Khasta- is hard hollow bread, filled with vegetables, dal and/or chole at
serve.
Sheermaal is a sweetened Naan made out of Maida (All-purpose flour),
leavened with yeast, baked in a Tandoor or oven. It typically accompanies
aromatic quorma (gravied chicken or mutton). Originally, it was made just
like Roti. The warm water in the recipe for Roti was replaced with warm
milk sweetened with sugar and flavoured with saffron. Today, restaurants
make it like a Naan and the final product resembles Danish pastry.
Baqarkhani is a variation of sheermaal that is cooked on a griddle rather
than baked.
3.9 Desserts:27
Winters are dedicated to halwas of all kind. There are several varieties of
these, prepared from different cereals, such as gram flour, sooji, wheat,
nuts and eggs. The special halwa or halwa sohan, which has four varieties,
viz Papadi, Jauzi, Habshi and Dudhiya is prepared especially well in
Lucknow.
The Jauzi Halwa Sohan is a hot favourite even today, but the art of
preparing it is confined to only a few households. Prepared for the most
part from germinated wheat, milk, sugar, saffron, nuts etc., it has love and
patience as its vital ingredients.
3.10 Chaat:
Chaat is a mixture of potato pieces, gram or chickpeas and tangy-salty
spices, with sour home-made Indian chilli and Saunth (dried ginger and
tamarind sauce), fresh green coriander leaves and yogurt for garnish, but
27
Source: World Heritage Encyclopedia™ licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0; accessed on 27
th
oct 2015
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other popular variants included Aloo tikkis (garnished with onion, coriander,
hot spices and a dash of curd), dahi puri, golgappa, dahi vada and papri
chaat
There are common elements among these variants including dahi, or
yogurt; chopped onions and coriander; sev (small dried yellow salty
noodles); and chaat masala, a spice mix typically consisting of amchoor
(dried mango powder), cumin, Kala Namak (rock salt), coriander, dried
ginger, salt, black pepper, and red pepper. The ingredients are combined
and served on a small metal plate or a banana leaf, dried and formed into
a bowl. Now a days in plastic/fiber plates.
3.11 OTHER IMPORTANT TERMS USED IN COOKING:
1. DHUA-GAR:-
This is a quick smoke procedure used to flavor a meat dish, daIs, or raita.
The smoke permeates every grain of the ingredients and imparts a subtle
aroma, which enhances the quality of the dish. The procedure may be
carried out either at the intermediate or the final stage of cooking. This is a
common technique employed while making kababs.
In a shallow utensil, or a lagan in which meat or mince has marinated, a
small bay is made in the center, and a katori or onion skin or a betel leaf
(depending on the dish) is placed. In it, a live coal is placed, and hot ghee,
sometimes mixed with aromatic herbs or spices, is poured over it and
covered immediately to prevent the smoke escaping. The lid kept on for
about 15 minutes, to allow the smoke to flavor the ingredients. The coal is
then removed and the meat cooked further.
2. DUM DENA/LAGANA-
This is a frequently method used in Awadh cooking. 'Dum' literally means
'breath' and the process involves placing the semi-cooked ingredients in a
pot or deg, sealing the utensil with flour dough and applying very slow
charcoal fire from top, by placing some live charcoal on the lid, and some
below. The Persian influence is most evident in this method though in
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Awadh it has acquired its own distinct character. The aroma, flavor, and
texture of dum results from slow cooking. This method is employed by a
number of delicacies such as the Shabdeg, Pulao and Biryani. Any dish
cooked by this method is 'Dum Pukht' or 'Dum Bakht'.
3. GALAWAT-
Refers to the use of softening agents is made from raw papaya or kalmi
shora (common name:salt peter{potaassium nitrate}) to tenderise meat.
4. BAGHAR-
This is a method of tempering a dish with hot oil or ghee, and spices. It
may be done either at the beginning of the cooking, as in curries, or at the
end as for (pulses). In the former, the fat is heated in a vessel to a smoking
point, and after reducing the flame, spices are added. When they begin to
crackle, the same process is carried out in a ladle, which is immersed in
the cooked dish and immediately covered with a lid. This retains the
essence and aroma of the spices, drawn out by the hot ghee.
5. GILE HIKMAT-
Gil, in Persian, means earth or mud, and hikmat implies the procedure of
the Hakims. This method is generally followed to prepare kushtas, which
are the ash-like residue of substances that cannot be consumed in their
natural form as they are toxic, for instance gems or metals.
The meat or vegetable to be cooked is generally taken whole and stuffed
with nuts and spices. It is then wrapped in a banana leaf or cloth and
covered completely with clay or multani mitti (fuller's earth) to seal it. Then
it is buried about 4–6 inches deep. A slow fire is placed on top for six to
eight hours. Then the food is dug out and served
6. LOAB-
Loab refers to the final stage in cooking, when the oil used during cooking
rises to the surface to give the dish a finished appearance. This occurs
mostly with slow cooking of gravy dishes.
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7. MOIN-
It is the shortening of dough. In this process fat is rubbed into the flour and
made into dough for kachoris or pooris orparathas. This makes the final
product crisp, flaky and crumbly.
8. ITTAR/KEWRA (PERFUMES)-
The use of perfumes plays an important role in Awadh cuisine they are
used to enhance the aroma of the dish and make it delicate. Most
commonly they are made from musk deer, hunting of which is now banned
worldwide
9. YAKHNI CUTS (MEAT)-
The cuts for Yakhni are generally bony pieces with flesh on them. These
cuts are usually taken from the joints and the ribs of the animal. The basic
purpose of mea t in preparing Yakhni is to derive the juice and flavour and
hence the shape of the meat does not count much
10. CHANDI WARQ-
In this process, small pieces of silver are placed between two sheets of
paper, then patted continuously with a hammer until papery thin. These are
used to decorat dishes before presentation, e.g., Chandi kaliya, Moti pulao.
11. ZAMIN DOZ-
In this style of cooking, a hole is dug in the ground and the ingredients are
placed and covered with mud, then a layer of burning charcoal. The
cooking takes about six hours.
3.12 LIST OF AVADHI DISHES:
2.12.1 Desert/ fast food/ Sweets:
1. Almond Kulfi
2. Aloo Tikki
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3. Badam Halwa
4. Almond Seera
5. Boondi Raita
6. Carrot Halwa
7. Gujia
8. Gulab Jamun
9. Gulkand Peda
10. Imarti
11. Jalebi
12. Kachori/ Khasta
13. Kaddu Ki Kheer
14. Kanji Ke Vade
15. Kurmura Ladoo
16. Kulfi
17. Mango Burfi
18. Moong Dal Halwa
19. Motichoor Ladoo
20. Papri
21. Phirni
22. Rabdi
23. Phirni
24. Rabdi
25. Phirni
26. Rabdi
27. Zafrani Kheer
2.12.2 Breads:
1. Green Peas Paratha
2. Kolcha
3. Kuttu Paratha
4. Lachcha Paratha
5. Methi Parathas
6. Naan
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2.12.3 Cuisines:
1. Biryani
2. Chicken Korma
3. Dahi Gosht
4. Fish Kebab
5. Galouti Kebab
6. Keema
7. Kathi Kebab
8. Kele Ki Sabzi
9. Khaja
10. Kofta Curry
11. Lamb kebab
12. Malai Kofta
13. Murgh Musallam
14. Mushroom Biryani
15. Mutton Kabab
16. Mutanjan
17. Nargisi Kofta
18. Navratan Korma
19. Navratan Pulao
20. Nawabi Curry
21. Nihari
22. Palak Paneer
23. Paneer Korma
24. Paneer Stuffed Tomatoes
25. Paneer Tikka
26. Peas Pulao
27. Samosa
28. Shahi Paneer
29. Shami Kabab
30. Tahari
31. Thandai
32. Til Papdi
33. Vegetable Biryani
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34. Vegetable Pulav
35. Yakhni Pulav
36. Zamin Doz Machhli
3.13 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AWADHI AND MUGHLAI CUISINE
Awadhi cuisine has drawn a considerable amount of influence from Mughal
cooking style and bears resemblance to those of Hyderabad and Kashmir.
The cuisine consists of both vegetarian and meat dishes that employ the
dum style of cooking over a slow fire that has become synonymous with
Lucknow.
Mughlai food is known for its richness and exotic use of spices, dried fruit,
and nuts. The Mughals did everything in style and splendor. Since they ate
very rich food they reduced the number of intake during the day. Mughlai
dishes as they are called have lots of milk and cream with spices to make
rich and spicy meal that is the reason why Mughlai recipes are rich in fat,
carbohydrates and proteins.
Awadhi food does not use over a hundred spices as some claim, but use a
handful of uncommon spices. The slow-fire cooking lets the juices absorb
into the solid parts. In addition to the major process of cooking food in
Awadhi style, other important processes, such as marinating meats,
contribute to the taste. This is especially the case with barbecued food that
might be cooked in a clay oven of over an open fire.
Fish, red meats, vegetables and cottage cheese may be marinated in curd
and spices. This helps to soften the taste and texture of them as well as
remove any undesired odors from the fleshy materials. They were often
cooked on tawa, the flat iron griddle, as opposed to Mughlai influence and
bear a testimony to the local influence and convenience.
Difference between Awadhi and Mughlai kebabs is that, while the former is
usually cooked on the tawa, the latter is grilled in a tandoor. This gives the
difference in flavor.
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CHAPTER 4:
CASE STUDY: CHADNI CHOWK,
CULTURAL STREET OF OLD DELHI
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Figure 25: Master Plan Representing Chandni Chowk Road, Delhi
Source: Delhi Development Authority
4.1 BACKGROUND DESCRIPTION:
Chandni Chowk is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi,
India. Chandni Chowk is located close to Old Delhi Railway Station and the
monument Red Fort is located within the Chandni Chowk. Chandni Chowk
Street is the straight street between Red Fort and Fateh Puri Mosque. Built
in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor of India Shah Jahan, and designed
by his daughter Jahan Ara, the market was once divided by canals (now
closed) to reflect moonlight and it remains one of India's largest wholesale
markets.28
Densely populated, overcrowded business street has now
become a visitors spot that represent Old Delhi‘s Culture.
Now a days street is facing problem of Street congestion, parking spaces,
traffic jam, overcrowding etc. Government of Delhi came up to solve this
problem and announced a projecked named ―Redevelopment of Chandni
Chowk‖
28
"Delhi - 100 years as the Capital". The Hindu. 1 February 2011
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4.2 Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk Project:29
Project aim
This project aims at taking remedial measure to decongest the current
mixed traffic congestion and other related issues in a way that the solutions
are both economically feasible as well as technologically viable terms of
power consumption, environment friendly, etc.
Background
The project Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk is divided in following two
phases:
Phase I: Undergrounding of Electric Wires
The first phase covers shifting of electric wires on main road of Chandni
Chowk. The executing agency for shifting of electric wires is the BSES
Yamuna Power Limited along with the implementing agency (MCD/PWD).
Phase II: Chandni Chowk Renewal
The phase II aims at taking remedial measure to decongest the current
mixed traffic congestion and other related issues in a way that the solutions
are both economically feasible as well as technologically viable terms of
power consumption, environment friendly, etc. It includes; Street
Improvement of Chandni Chowk, Creating Pedestrian Friendly environment
with distinctive character of Chandni Chowk, Integrated Plan for all the
services ,Creating Heritage environment etc. It includes the stretch of
Chandni Chowk from “Lal Jain Mandir to Fatehpuri Masjid.”
Vision of the Area
 The proposed project should be a catalyst for future conservation and
revitalization of Shahjahanabad.
 Generate a physical and visual continuity in the streetscape, which will
augment the imageability of the streets.
 The main intension is to reinforce safe and free pedestrian movement,
by giving significance to pedestrians over vehicles.
29
www.delhi.gov.in, retrieve on 12 Dec 2015.
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 The multifunction of Chandni Chowk as a market street, a gathering place
for the public and a ceremonial axis for festive are considered and retained.
 To bring landscape back trees will be planted along two sides of road.
Agencies involved with SRDC
North Delhi Municipal Corporation (NDMC), BSES Yamuna Power Ltd, Delhi
Jal Board (DJB), Delhi Fire Service (DFS), Mahanagar Telecommunication
Ltd (MTNL), Indrasprastha Gas Ltd (IGL) etc and other stakeholders
Consultant
M/s. Abhimanyu Dalal Architects (ADA) was appointed for Redevelopment
of Chandni Chowk Road form Lal Quila to Fatehpuri Masjid by CSIR to
prepare Detail Project Report (DPR) with inputs form MCD, DJB, BSES
Yamuna Power Ltd, CRRI, NBRI etc. for giving consultancy on Architectural
and urban design; electrical and lighting; sanitary; graphic designer for
signage works and including all findings, drawings and details in the DPR.
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4.3 SITE STUDY BY AR. ABHIMANU DALAL:
4.3.1 Socio Economic status of the street:
The street consists of several types of retail and wholesale
market. People not only from the Delhi but from the whole
country usually come here for marketing. These people
include all economic groups but mainly Middle class. As the
products over here are comparatively at low rates.
Permanent shops of Cloth, Shoes, Phone Accessories, Wallet,
Handkerchief, Food, Cobbler, Jewellery, Photo Album, Cards,
Coin Exchange etc are present here.
4.3.2 There are different types of hawkers on the street:
1. Semi-Permanent Hawkers,
2. Hawkers on Thela,
3. On footpath Hawker,
4. Semi Mobile Hawker, and
5. Mobile Hawkers.
4.3.3 Majority of these hawkers are Food Hawkers:
1. Chai Wala,
2. Tikki Wala,
3. Chole Kolche Wala,
4. Bread Omelette Wala,
5. Fruit Wala,
6. Mithai Wala,
7. Kulfi Wala,
8. Nimbu Pani Wala,
9. Pakora Wala, and
10. Churan Wala etc
Figure 26: Activity Pattern at Chandni
Chowk
Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu
Dalal
1
2
3
4
5
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Figure 27: Activity pattern at Red Fort Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
Figure 28: List of Activities on Chandni Chowk Street; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar.
Abhimanyu Dalal
Figure 29: Activities pattern at Fountain Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar.
Abhimanyu Dalal
1
2
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Figure 30: Activities between Gurudwara and Town Hall; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by
Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
Figure 32: Activities at Town Hall Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu
Dalal
Figure 31: Activities pattern at Fatehpuri Masjid Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC
Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
4
5
3
Existing and spill over shops cause major chaos in
pedestrian movement
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4.4 Issues at Chandni Chowk:
1. Inadequate Parking facilities
2. Movement
3. Pedestrian congestion,
4. Parking spaces,
5. Traffic jam,
6. Physical Infrastructure: Electrical supply wire etc.
4.5. SOLUTIONS BY AR. ABHIMANYU DALAL:
4.5.1 One way traffic –out of Chandi
Chowk-
From red fort, restricted entry from North to
Chandni Chowk.
4.5.2 Two way movement by NMV-
One lane shared with MV out from Red Fort
and dedicated lane for traffic coming in from
Red Fort.
5.3 Two way Tram system along Chandni
Chowk-
Both ways and possibilities of linking it to a
larger level connecting Old Delhi and New
Delhi railway stations.
5.4 Redirecting Circulation and Parking
Proposals:
Re-designing Motorised vehicle circulation and proposing Parking facility
for the same at Chandni Chowk.
Figure 33: Proposed MV Movement;
; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar.
Abhimanyu Dalal
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Figure 35: Proposed NMV
Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC
Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
Figure 36: Proposed Tram
Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC
Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
Figure 34: Proposed Parking and Motorized vehicle Circulation; ;
Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
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CHAPTER 5:
SITE STUDY-CHOWK
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5.1 BACKGROUND DESCRIPTION:
Chock is among the oldest continuous inhabited areas of Lucknow.
Significant settlement and commercial activity date back to around the late
16th
or early 17th
century, when Jaunpur under its Sharqui rulers, rather
than either Faizabad or Lucknow, was Awadh‘s major urban centre. But
Chowk really came into its own as the hub of a very dense web of fine
artisanal work and intense commercial dealings towards the end of the 18th
century when Lucknow became the capital of Awadh.
The main spine of the Chowk has two gates at its both ends namely Gol
Darawaza and Akbari Darwaza.
It was the place which had the presence of the courtesans, aristocrats,
nobles, jagidar, taluqadars, wasiqadars, mahajans and highly placed
officers of the Nawabi
administration and was
supposedly
connoisseurs of art and
crafts. The courtesans
were accomplished in
dance and music. The
Chowk became known to
British as red light area.
They were packed away
in the early ‗50s under
Government orders.
5.2 SITE LOCATION:
Lucknow is divided into two
sectors western and eastern
sector. Chowk lies in the old city
part in the western sector, south
of River Gomti. The major roads
that define the extent of the
Figure 37: Location of Chow in Lucknow City.
Source:www.googlemaps.com
Figure 38: Chowk Foundry, Lucknow.
Source:www.googlemaps.com
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area are Victoria Street, Kamla Nehru Marg and NH-25. The major
commercial spine is the street that originates from Gol Darwaza at Chowk
chauraha and terminates at Akbari Darwaza.
5.3 DEMOGRAPHY:
Chowk comes under District I of Lucknow which includes Hardoi Road,
Cambell Road and Dubagga etc. and the population of the District is
287335.
Chowk comes under Zones 6 and zone wise population and employment
of Chowk ward in 2001 was 13432 and 3695 respectively.
However, before first war of Independence the population of Chowk was
5096 approx. and numbers of households were 637 and in 1971, the
population of chowk was 23,343 and density of 667/Hec.
5.3.1 Density:
Chowk remains the most densely populated area with exiting density of
600 ppH. There are six zones of Lucknow, and Chowk comes under zone
six which is the Western zone and it comes under ward 105.
5.4 STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE OF CHOWK:
5.4.1 Cultural significance
Chowk has played a vital role in the development of the Lucknow culture.It
is one of the oldest markets in Lucknow with narrow streets which signify
the historical and cultural heritage of the city. These streets envisage small
commercial establishments. The market had gold and silver smiths,
dealers of precious stones and engravers, ivory craftsmen, cloth
merchants who deals in chikan, zardozi, kaarchob, kamkhaab and silk.
5.4.2 Religious buildings
There are number of religious building in Chowk. The ram Mandir, the
Bisati Masjid, Saudagar imambara, Tehsin Masjid, Mohammadian Masjid
are situated together with number of Madarssa and situated together with
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number of Madrass and the spacious Darul-Shifa (old city hospital). Chowk
still remains come of its old Nawabi glamour and harmony blended with
modern type of business and culture.
5.5 Cuisine of Chowk:
Based on the number of visitors , existence of shop, variety of food and
self observation; shops are selected and marked. Most of these shops are
older than 50 years. They lie in the vicinity of chowk and have a large
amount of footfall say 600-800 approx per shop per day. They might not
have a proper working( cooking) space or adequate service space but they
are attracting people of chowk and community who know about them with
there taste. These shops represent cuisines the one of the most core part
of Avadhi culture; Avadhi food. The major preparation of food items are
done at some another place and only final touch to food is done at the
shops.
5.5.1 Idris ki Biryani:
Located near Tulsidas Marg. A
person may find the best Biryani of
Lucknow at this place. It has been
popular among several food
channels. Many critics have tasted
his Biryani and came to the decision
of being best in Lucknow
Key Issues:
 Unhygienic environment
 Unavailability of required cooking
and sitting space
 Parking in front of shop on road
 Improper infrastructure
Parking on road
Figure 39: Plan of Idris ki Shop.
Figure 40: Image showing parking on
road and shop
Shop
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F5.5.2 Raheems:
Raheems Nehari shop is situated on Hakim Abdul Aziz road. Qued with
other food shops. It cam into existence as copy of Original Rahim shop on
Phool wali gali.Cooking is not an issue here as cooked food come from
Mehmood Nagar. The other food such as Roasted chicken Roti and ready
to searve preparation is done at this shop. Shop is comparatively well
furnished with new furniture, but the area is only 19 meter square for
sitting.
Major Issue: Parking
5.5.3 Mubeens:
It is on the mid of Akbarigate ki Dhal on Abdul Aziz Road. It has 5-6
waiters at a time to serve customer at dining space. The management and
Cash table is under the hand of young generation. Management is working
hard to make their customer satisfy. The menu consist: Kulcha, Nehari,
Paya, Mutton Nehari, Mutton Stoo, Mutton Biryani, Chicken Korma,
Chicken Biryani, Chicken Roasted, Beef Pasinda, Roti and Kheer.
The Shop is divided into 2 floors. Lower or ground floor is used for cooking,
general sitting, cash and washing area with 40 seating at a time. Whereas
the first floor is reserved for family dining with 30 seating.
Key Issues:
 Parking in front of
shop
 Unavailability of
required cooking
space
Figure 42: Image showing
interior of Mubeens
Figure 41: ground floor Plan of
Mubeens Shop
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5.5.4 Azhar bhai ki Pan ki Dukan:
This the most famous shop of Beetle in the area.
They are always invited in the Lucknow Mahotsav to
represent Lucknow‘s Culture. They have a very wide
variety of Beetle. From normal Tobacco to Special
Non Tobacco type stuffed with fruits and sweets.
This shop is of only 4 meter square area, 2 people
Azhar bhai and his younger brother run this shop.
Figure 43: Parking in front of Mueens
Figure 45: Image Showing Azhar bhai ki Beetle Shop
Figure 44: Beetle
shop of Izhar Bhai
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
57
5.5.5 Mohammad Raees Bread shop:
This shop serves only Bread of mainly 2
types, Khammeri (Naan) Rori and
Sheermal. Rate of shop is quite as low
as 2 rupees only. This shop attracts
people from lower income group. This
small shop contains Tandoors for making
bread and cash counter only. It has all
open preparation area. The area of shop
is not maintained in terms of construction
repair and aesthetics. The Architectural
and visual significance lack at the
shop but social significance is very
high.
Figure 47: Old shop of Mohd Raees
view from Akbari gate road.
Figure 48: Bread shop view from alternate lane
Figure 46: Plan of Raees Bread Shop
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
58
5.5.6 Shahid Chicken Biryani
Shahid chicken Biryani shop is a new shop
but stablished by the person named Shahid
who was making and serving biryani as a
street vendor since his childhood, the recipe
is forwarded to him from his father. This 2
floor shop does not only serve Biryani now a
day, they also serve Pasanda- Sheermal and
Nehari Kolcha.
The lower floor is used for serving general
public and upper floor is reserved for family
dinning.
Key Issues:
 Parking in front of shop.
 Unavailability of required cooking space as it is done on road under
encroachment.
5.6.7 New Mubeen Hotel:
New Mubeen Hotel also called Mubeen Samira Hotel serves same Dishes
as Mubeen Hotel. People who don‘t get space at Mubeen they went to this
New Mubeen Hotel. The preparation of major food items is done at
Bawarchi Khana. Final touch to food is given at serving at the restaurant.
Figure 49: Shahid Chicken
Biryani Restaurent
Figure 50: Plan of New Mubeen Restaurant
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
59
This is a restaurant with architectural and visual significance in its
interior. It is divided into 60 seating at basement and 45 seating at
upper ground floor. Seating arrangement is aesthetically pleasing
compare to other restaurant and shops. Façade is aesthetically unpleasant
and visually unhygienic. The Shop is extended approx. 20 feet on road
and food is prepared on that area.
Figure 51: Front view of New Mubeen Hotel
Figure 52: Entrance of New Mubeen
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
60
Major Issues:
 Requirement of Façade treatment
 Parking
 Encroachment by the shop.
5.5.8 Jaan Sheermal Corner:
This is one of the shop or bakery where bread is prepared. But this
particular shop being on the main square and also due to Roll serve with
Kabab, came as most popular shop for Sheermal(Bread). A small seating
Figure 53: Interior of New Mubeens, 1
Figure 54: Interior of New Mubeens ,2
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
61
area is also available to serve
approx. 10-12 people at a time.
Shop is small but it fulfils the
requirement or preparation and sale
of bread, open preparation of bread
can be seen here.
Buy and leave (Type of drivein)
service is applied.
Major Issues:
 Requirement of Façade treatment
 Parking
5.5.9 Tundey Kababi:
151, Phool Wali Gali, chowk is the original shop or Tundey kababi, where
the invention of this Kabab was done. This shop still serves kabab and
Paratha. Number of visitors at this shop is around 800-900 per day; those
Figure 56:Jann Sheermal Corner and bike parking in front of shop.
Figure 55: Plan of Jaan Sheermal Corner
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
62
who need pack food and people who dine at the
place.
This old shop has counter, cooking and
servicing point in the front, and dinng area at the
back, with seating of about 64 person at a time.
Major Issues:
 Requirement of Façade treatment
 Parking
 Anaesthetic appearance
5.5.10 Rahims:
Rahims restaurant is one of the oldest food spot in Chowk established in
1890. The shop is divided into lower ground floor and upper ground floor.
Lower ground floor consist of cleaning, cash counter, serving and dining
areas, where as upper ground floor is dedicated to preparation of food and
Figure 58: Plan of Tundey
Kababi
Figure 59: Tundey Kabaki shop from ourside
Source:www.finechopped.net
Figure 57: Tunday kababi
Shop
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
63
bread. Entrance of the shop does not seems good, thus façade treatment
is required, with proper preparation areas need to be made. The lower floor
seems to be hygienic, with proper service and a proper seating space.
Figure 60: Plans of Rahim Hotel
Figure 61: Exterior of Rahim hotel
Figure 64: Cash counter of Rahims
Figure 62: Logo of Rahims
Figure 63: Seating area in Rahims
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
64
5.5.11 Radhey Lal Parampara Sweet:
Earlier known as Misthan Bhandar, established since 1926 is a sweets
shop. The shop lies in the structure of the Gol Darwaza gate of Phool wali
gali. This ground floor shop has a good interior. The small area of shop is
only used for sale and packaging of sweets. Preparation of sweet is dona
at Dubagga.
Major Issues:
 Parking in front of Shop
 Hawkers in front of shop restricting shop view
5.5.12 Makhan Malai:
Hawkers of Makhan Malai sit in front of Gol Darwaza. There are around 5-
6 Makhan Malai Hawkers selling Makhan-Malai, Rabdi, Gajak etc.
Figure 65: Position of shop with Gol
Darwaza (Gate)
Figure 66: Front view of Radhey Lal
Parampara Sweets
Figure 67: Interior of Radhehy Lal
Sweets
Figure 68: Sweet pakaging at Radheyy
Lal Sweets
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
65
Major Issues:
 Inappropriate sitting space
 Parking near hawkers
 Road congestion
5.5.13 Shree Lassi Corner:
Shree Lassi corner is an old shop on unknown existence at Kamla Nehru
Marg. This famous shop offers several types of Lassi , milk badam, kulfi,
chola bhatura, Chola Rice, Gulab Jamun, Paneer, Curd, Rabdi and Milk
Cake.
Figure 69: Image of Makhan malai hawker at Gol Darwaza
Figure 70: Shree Lassi Corner on Kamla Nehru Marg
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
66
The shop is on ground floor. Some table and chairs are placed under the
building portico for sitting in front of shop. Parking is usually done in front of
shop on road.
Major Issues:
 Parking in front of Shop
 Improper sitting space
Figure 71: Shree Lassi Corner
Source:www.bcmtouring.com
Figure 72: Conceptual Plan
of Shree Lassi Corner
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
67
Map showing location of important food spots at Chowk, Lucknow
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
68
CHAPTER 6:
ISSUES AND STATEGIES
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
69
After the data analysis of work, many issues were figured out of the street.
Finding from the study help in reviving of the street/ food in order to
standardise it with respect to space, movement and basic design
strategies.
After the analysis of data several issues were revealed in the Chowk area.
6.1 Loss of Built Heritage:
One of the major issues of the street is the excessive, uncontrolled,
unchecked commercialization of the spine. The street was not design to
cater such a large amount of commercial activity. The observation
supported the fact that this excessive commercialization was actually
eating up old and traditional building. The land use pattern is converted
into mixed-use rather than residential or commercial , Old traditional
building are being replaced by concrete structures with proposed
commercial activity on the ground and residential on upper floors. The
historic buildings which are yet not converted are in bad condition and
needed to be saved in order save its culture.
By making local building bylaws and building standards and enforcing them
on through some conservation bodies such as INTACH etc. will solve the
issue.
6.2 Degraded street façade:
The excess display of advertisement as a part of commercialization of the
shop etc., improper check on repair and maintenance, encroachment on
the street etc. are degrading the façade and present pathetic, unhygienic
view. Improving this will give visitors an attractive and charming cultural
experience of Awadh. Bylaws for advertisement and by educating local
people for the same will bring awareness in the local people, as done in
Hazratganj area, will solve the issue.
6.3 Encroachment on Street:
Most of the shops are extended on road, and part or preparation seating or
parking is done. This method reduces the catering width of street and
causes congestion and traffic jam. Implementing local bylaws, and making
people aware and sensitive for their approach will solve the problem.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
70
6.4 Congestion:
The excessive use, encroachment and parking have led to traffic ingress
into the area. Majorly happened at the peak hour, festive season, and
Sunday (weekly market day). The width of Phool wali Gali Street also
varies front to point due to its organic nature. Loading / unloading of heavy
vehicle make impossible for pedestrian to walk on it. One way movement
on Abdul Aziz road and vehicular restriction on Phool wali gali might solve
the problems.
6.5 Parking:
The major issue, not only at the food joints but for the whole area. No
proper parking space is available. The requirement is rising day by day as
no of registration of vehicle is increasing in Lucknow. Under Lucknow 15
Lakh Vehicles are registered till present day (according to Lucknow
transport division). Underground and multilevel parking facility at various
points on Tulsidas Marg might solve the problems.
6.6 Lack of physical infrastructure:
Another problem of street (mainly phool wali gali) is insufficient
infrastructure facilities. The condition of the street, dirty drain and solid
waste management need urgent attention. Sewage is being dumped into
drain creating in appropriate environmental conditions. Lack of physical
infrastructure such as Sewerage, Water supply, underground electrical
wiring etc... Implementation of Infrastructure Management plant is
necessity of the area.
6.7 Multiple Owner-ship:
Successive fragmentation of property and the multiple ownership has led
to degradation of buildings, as it restricts the overall growth of the place.
Food spots are also on the rent base, thus they are unable to implement
development or up gradation. With the initiation of government, application
of local laws, and development strategy, multi ownership problem will no
longer be a hindrance for development.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
71
6.8 Advertisement:
The food spots are either known by resident of Chowk or local people of
the city, or food hunters. Only some the shops are famous enough to
represent Awadh culture. Need of signage, advertisement for these spots
are required through several means of presentation. Lucknow Bhraman
(Lucknow tourism circuit) must include these spots and must advertise
them with other cultural or tourism related advertisement. Scope of another
type of tourism (food tourism) exists within these spots.
6.9 Absence of Multi typology food experience:
Awadhi food is not restricted to only non-vegetarian food, Vegetarian and
non-vegetarian food is equally important in Awadhi food culture. Majority of
spots represent non-vegetarian food and do not have any kind of food that
attracts vegetarian customers. By adding vegetarian Awadhi cuisine will
not only increase the footfall of local but also tourist.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
72
CHAPTER 7:
CONCLUSION
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
73
7. CONCLUSION
Lucknow being the hub of culture fails in representing its cuisine with a
world class level. This is the result of drawbacks of some basic issues and
can be solved.
The issues that holds back the exploration of cuisine of Lucknow to the
whole world involves –improper road network, congestion, un-aesthetical
appearance, hygiene, lack of required space, lack of identity of eateries,
and most important its advertisement in the tourism sector and packages.
It has been observed that the major type of food that are famous majorly
includes non-vegetarian cuisines, whereas, history proves the equal
importance of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisines in the Nawabi
culture (Awadh region).
Addition of vegetarian food in the food menu of eateries will not only
increase the footfall but also conserve the cultural heritage (food)
There are several food spots in the city, especially in old Lucknow, which
needed to be listed and appreciated by the Department of Tourism. That
can be added in the tourist circuit, through PPP mode, resulting in the
growth of another tourism (food tourism) in the city and overall growth of
the people preserving this heritage.
The issues of area requirement can be solved through providing/ proposing
a food hub specially for tourist with in the heritage vicinity, Such as-
Ground of Raf-e-Aam Club, Kaisarbagh, Lucknow
Providing One way traffic, signage representing important cuisine spots,
re-routing of traffic, overall façade treatment of Chowk area, infrastructure
improvement, providing local bylaws etc., can solve the other small but
important issues of the place ; provides a better view to the tourists.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
74
REFERENCES
1. Llewellyn Rosie-―Lucknow -Then and Now‖, Ch-Lucknow food street and
bazaars.
2. Veena Talwar Oldenburg,(1984). The Making of Colonial Lucknow, 1856–
1877. Princeton University Press. ISBN 978-0-691-06590-8
3. Abbas SA, ―Increadible Lucknow- A Visitors Guide‖,
4. http;//Lucknow.me/Shaam-e-Awadh.html.
5. http://www.scribd.com/doc/2030831/Awadhi-Cuisine
6. http://indiandiplomacy.in/meadocument/11200901.pdf, India Perspective
7. http://www.scribd.com/doc/1291129/Lucknow-Cuisine
8. Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Phase of an Oriental Culture,
Oxford University Press, Delhi. Gastronomy, 28, 155-159
9. http://www.awadhicuisine/ProjectGutenberg/Self-
PublishingeBooks/ReadBooksonline.htm
10. http://www.scribd.com/doc/12914129/Lucknow-Cuisine
11. http://blogs.hindustantimes.com/rude-food/2009/04/05/lucknow-diary
12. http://shantanughosh.com/2007/0/of-nawabs-and-kababs.html.
13. Dissertation on ―Reviving the cousins of Lucknow‖ by Asma Hsmeed, JMI
14. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Awadhi_cuisine
15. http://NDTVFood.htm; access on 26th
Oct 2015
16. http://khanapakana.com/lucknowrecipe; accessed on 26th Oct 2015
17. World Heritage Encyclopedia™ licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0; accessed
on 27th
oct 2015
18. "Delhi - 100 years as the Capital". The Hindu. 1 February 2011
19. www.delhi.gov.in, retrieve on 12 Dec 2015.
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
75
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
1. Books
i. Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Last Phase of an
Oriental Culture, Oxford University Press, Delhi.
ii. Roise Llewellya Jones-―Lucknow, Then and Now‖, Oxford
University Press, Delhi.
iii. Amir Hasan, ―Palace Culture of Lucknow‖
iv. Sobia Ahsan, (2012-13), Thesis report on ―Revitalization of Chowk,
Lucknow‖, JMI.
v. Asma Hameed, (2012-13)Dissertation on ―Reviving the cousins of
Lucknow‖ JMI
2 Website:
I. https://lucknow.me
II. https://www.scribe.com
III. https://indiandiplomacy.in
IV. https://blogs.hindustantimes.com
V. https://wikimapia.org
VI. https://googlemaps.com
VII. https://NDTVFood.html
VIII. https://khanapakana.com
IX. https://the hindu.com
X. https://delhi.gov.in
XI. https://www.lko.nic.in
XII. https://www.flicker.com
XIII. http://www.mapofindia.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
76
XIV. http://www.trodly.org
XV. http://www.lucknowbookclub.com
XVI. http://www.tripoto.com
XVII. http://pinterest.com
XVIII. Nishienterprises.com
XIX. http://heritagescoachin.com
XX. http://www.team.bhp.com
XXI. http://www.omanisilver.com
XXII. http://www.lucknowchkan.com
XXIII. http://www.dnaindia.com
REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16
77

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Dissertation on reviving the food street of lucknow

  • 1. DISSERTATION ON REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW SUBMITTED BY: MOHD FIROZ M.ARCH, SEMESTER-III (RECREATION ARCHITECTURE) GUIDED BY: AR. RUKNUDDIN MIRZA FACULTY OF ARCHITECTURE & EKISTICS JAMIA MILLIA ISLAMIA NEW DELHI-110025 2015-2016
  • 2. i
  • 3. ii Faculty of Architecture & Ekistics, Jamia Millia Islamia, New Delhi. CERTIFICATE In the partial fulfilment of M. Arch degree program, this is to certify that „Mohd Firoz‟ has worked on the Dissertation project entitled “Reviving the food street of Lucknow, Case of Chowk, Lucknow” under my guidance and supervision. Ar. Ruknuddin Mirza Prof. S. M. Akhtar Guide Dean Ar. Roomi Gilani Ar. Abdul Halim Babbu Co-ordinator Head of Department External Examiner
  • 4. iii DECLARATION I Mohd Firoz hereby declares that the Dissertation entitled “Reviving the food street of Lucknow” submitted in the partial fulfilment of the requirements for the award of the degree of Masters of Architecture is my original research work and that the information taken from secondary sources is given due citations and references. [Signature] Mohd Firoz M.Arch, Sem-III Date: 20th Jan‟16 2015-16 Place: New Delhi-25, India.
  • 5. iv ACKNOWLEDGMENT All praise is to ALLAH, the Almighty, the most Beneficent, and the most Merciful who bestowed upon me the courage, patience and strength to begin this work and carry it to its completion. I express my thanks to HIM and bow my head before HIM in gratitude. I would like to thank my guide Ar. Ruknuddin Mirza; for helping me out on every step of this journey and for the valuable guidance that helped me to improve my work and helped me throughout to bring this Dissertation to its final form. Then I would like to thank my Parents who stood by me under all circumstances. And for all those efforts and determinations without which the final stage seems to be impossible I would like to thank all my friends. And last but not the least, I would like to thank all of those who kept me in their prayers.
  • 6. v ABSTRACT Lucknow not only reminds of its Nawabi architecture, culture and craft but also gives us a good impression of cuisines. Lucknow cuisines had attended a world class fame, but lacks behind in providing a world class ambience for the public. Here in Lucknow the cuisine especially of old Lucknow have a unique identity and individuality, reflecting the richness and royalty of the past. This dissertation analysis the present scenario of famous eateries of old Lucknow and problem they are facing. The ignorance to these problems further leads for the socio-economic and socio-culture impacts for the city. The purpose of this dissertation is to provide suggestions so that the cuisine of Lucknow can be conserve and emerge as an another big tourism sector for Lucknow Tourism. The work done in the dissertation in a way towards solving the issues of, less tourism, traffic congestion, encroachment, lack of parking spaces, façade deterioration, and losing the identity with respect to cuisine heritage i.e., including both veg and non-veg cuisine . Relocating or, proposing another food hub especially for tourist with in the heritage vicinity might also solve major issues. This will not only benefit the Local people but will also increase the tourism in this sector (food tourism). The basic idea of the dissertation is to raise the charm of cuisines for the public so that it does not lose its integrity.
  • 7. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………...………..1 1 Introduction …………………………………………….………….………….2 1.1 Aim………. ……………………………………………….……….…………..2 1.2 Objectives…………………………………………………..………………….2 1.3 Scope and Limitations…………………………………….…….……………3 1.4 Methodology………………………………………………..….………………3 2. Area of Study:Lucknow….......………………………………......…………….4 2.1 Introduction…………………………………………………….……………...5 2.2 Location…………………………..…………………………..……..…………5 2.3 Historic Evolution of City……………………………………………………..6 2.4 Geography and Climate………………………………………………………8 2.5 Regional Linkage……………………………………………………………...9 2.6 City Profile……………………………………………………………………..9 2.7 Socio-Cultural Aspect…………………………………………………...... 9 2.8 Socio-Economic Aspect…………………………………………………….11 3. Cuisine Of Lucknow…………………………….…….…………………… 12 3.1 Origin of Cuisines in Lucknow............................................................ 13 3.2 Preperation of Cuisine……………………………………….....…...…. 16 3.3 Traditional Cuisines………….………………………………….....…. 17 3.4 Traditional Spices…………………………………………...…………. 20 3.5 Traditional Utensils……………………………………………………….. 21 3.6 The Lucknow Food Trail…………………………………………………. 23 3.7 List of Lucknawi Recipies……………………………………………….. 25 3.8 Types of Breads (Roti)…………………………………………………… 34 3.9 Desserts…………………………………………………………………… 35 3.10 Chaat…………………………………………………………………… .35 3.11 Important Terminology in Lucknawi Cooking………………………. 36 3.12 List of Avadhi Dishes…………………………………… …………… 38
  • 8. vii 3.13 Difference between Awadhi and Mughlai Cuisine……………………. 41 4. Case Study: Chandni Chowk ………...……………………….….… ..…..42 4.1 Background Description ……………….……………………..……...….43 4.2 Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk…………….…….………..…...… 44 4.3 Site Analysis…………………………….………...…………………....… 46 4.4 Issues……………….………….…………..............................……… .49 4.5 .Recommendations …………………………………..……………...… .49 5. Site Study: Chowk, Lucknow.................................................................. 51 5.1 Background Description………… …………………………………… 52 5.2 Site Location…………………………………………………………….. 52 5.3 Demography……………………………………………………………. 53 5.4 Importance of Chowk…………………………………………………. 53 5.5 Cuisine of Chowk…………………………………………….………… 54 6. Issues and Strategies …………………………………………….……… 67 7. Conclusion……………………………………………...……….…………. 72 References…………………..…………………………………..……….……… 73 Bibliography………………………………………...………..….……………… 74
  • 9. viii LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1: Lucknow City Map, Source:www.mapofindia.com..................... 5 Figure 2: Location map of Uttar Pradesh. Source: wikimedia.org ................................. 5 Figure 3: Bada Imambada built in 1784. Source: www.trodly.com.............................. 6 Figure 4: Residency built in 1780-1800. Source: gettohimanshu.wikipedia.com.......... 7 Figure 5: Hazratganj in 1971 Source: www.lucknowbookclub.com.............. 8 Figure 6: Lucknow regional connectivity Source:www.lucknow.nic.in......................... 9 Figure 7: Asifi Mosque, Imambada. Source:www.tripoto.com.............................. 9 Figure 8: Courtesy of Lucknow. Source:www.dnaindia.com .........................10 Figure 9: Legecy of Dance and Music. Source: pinterest.com ..................................10 Figure 10: Lucknow Chikan Work. Source:www.lucknowchikan.com.................10 Figure 11: Kakori Kebab. Source www.scribe.com:..............................14 Figure 12: Laziz Lauki. Source:www.scribe.com ................................18 Figure 13: Bhagona. Source: www.nishienterprise.com .................21 Figure 14: Deg/Degchi. Source:www.heritageartscoachin.com.............21 Figure 15: Aluminium Kadai . Source:www.dsource.in ...................................22 Figure 16: Aluminium Lagan. Source:www.zaaiqa.net ...................................22 Figure 17: Iron Tandoor. Source:www.rameshtandoor.com ...................22 Figure 18: Mahi Tawa. Source: www.team.bhp.com...........................22 Figure 19: Brass Plate (Seeni). Source:www.omanisilver.com..........................23 Figure 20: Image o Khaste Mathura Aloo. Source:khanapakana.com ................................27 Figure 21: Image of Masala Bhindi Source:www.Khanakhazana.com.....................29 Figure 22: Image of Khatta Meetha Kadoo Recipe. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com......30 Figure 23: Lucknow Kofta. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com......................31 Figure 24: Sweet Rice Pudding. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com ....................33 Figure 25: Master Plan Representing Chandni Chowk Road, Delhi.................................43 Figure 26: Activity Pattern at Chandni Chowk......................................................................46
  • 10. ix Figure 27: Activity pattern at Red Fort Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal.............................................................................................................................................47 Figure 28: List of Activities on Chandni Chowk Street; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal .........................................................................................................................47 Figure 29: Activities pattern at Fountain Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal .........................................................................................................................47 Figure 30: Activities between Gurudwara and Town Hall; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal....................................................................................................................48 Figure 31: Activities pattern at Fatehpuri Masjid Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal....................................................................................................................48 Figure 32: Activities at Town Hall Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal.............................................................................................................................................48 Figure 33: Proposed MV Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal49 Figure 34: Proposed Parking and Motorized vehicle Circulation; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal .........................................................................................50 Figure 35: Proposed NMV Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal.............................................................................................................................................50 Figure 36: Proposed Tram Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal.............................................................................................................................................50 Figure 37: Location of Chow in Lucknow City. Source:www.googlemaps.com ..............52 Figure 38: Chowk Foundry, Lucknow. Source:www.googlemaps.com ...............52 Figure 39: Plan of Idris ki Shop. .............................................................................................54 Figure 40: Image showing parking on road and shop.........................................................54 Figure 41: ground floor Plan of Mubeens Shop ...................................................................55 Figure 42: Image showing interior of Mubeens....................................................................55 Figure 43: Parking in front of Mueens ...................................................................................56 Figure 44: Beetle shop of Izhar Bhai .....................................................................................56 Figure 45: Image Showing Azhar bhai ki Beetle Shop .......................................................56 Figure 46: Plan of Raees Bread Shop...................................................................................57 Figure 47: Old shop of Mohd Raees view from Akbari gate road. ....................................57 Figure 48: Bread shop view from alternate lane..................................................................57
  • 11. x Figure 49: Shahid Chicken Biryani Restaurent....................................................................58 Figure 50: Plan of New Mubeen Restaurant ........................................................................58 Figure 51: Front view of New Mubeen Hotel ........................................................................59 Figure 52: Entrance of New Mubeen.....................................................................................59 Figure 53: Interior of New Mubeens, 1..................................................................................60 Figure 54: Interior of New Mubeens ,2..................................................................................60 Figure 55: Plan of Jaan Sheermal Corner ............................................................................61 Figure 56:Jann Sheermal Corner and bike parking in front of shop.................................61 Figure 57: Tunday kababi Shop .............................................................................................62 Figure 58: Plan of Tundey Kababi..........................................................................................62 Figure 59: Tundey Kabaki shop from ourside Source:www.finechopped.net.....................62 Figure 60: Plans of Rahim Hotel ............................................................................................63 Figure 61: Exterior of Rahim hotel .........................................................................................63 Figure 62: Logo of Rahims......................................................................................................63 Figure 63: Seating area in Rahims ........................................................................................63 Figure 64: Cash counter of Rahims .......................................................................................63 Figure 65: Position of shop with Gol Darwaza (Gate).........................................................64 Figure 66: Front view of Radhey Lal Parampara Sweets...................................................64 Figure 67: Interior of Radhehy Lal Sweets ...........................................................................64 Figure 68: Sweet pakaging at Radheyy Lal Sweets............................................................64 Figure 69: Image of Makhan malai hawker at Gol Darwaza..............................................65 Figure 70: Shree Lassi Corner on Kamla Nehru Marg .......................................................65 Figure 71: Shree Lassi Corner................................................................................................66 Figure 72: Conceptual Plan of Shree Lassi Corner.............................................................66
  • 12. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 1 CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION
  • 13. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 2 REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 1. INTRODUCTION: Lucknow not only reminds for its Nawabi culture, craft and architecture but is also known for its impression on cuisine that developed in the city. Lucknow cuisine had attended its world class fame but lack behind in providing a world class ambience for the public. In Lucknow especially old Lucknow had a unique identity and individuality, reflecting the richness and royalty of the past. The present scenario of famous eateries in the city is facing problem of overcrowding and underdevelopment. Most of the places are only known to the local people, thus promotion is required. These places are losing its traditional value in the market. Ignorance of which can lead to economic and social impact on the city. 1.1 Aim: To provide a suitable solution to raise the charms of cuisine of ―the city of Nawab‖ Lucknow 1.2 Objectives: i. To study the historic evolution of food street of Lucknow. ii. To study the cuisines of Lucknow iii. To identify the types of food available at Gol Darwaza. iv. To investigate the types of users of the street. v. To analyse the strength and weakness of the street with respect to food consumers and socio-economic aspects. vi. To identify the limitations of the street in term of urban and socio economic factors. vii. To study the govt. approach towards the street. viii. To investigate the best possible ways which makes the street vibrant for the users. ix. Framing methods for rejuvenating the street and suggesting guidelines for promoting cuisines of Lucknow.
  • 14. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 3 1.3 Scope and limitation: The scope of this dissertation of is to promote the food tourism of Lucknow. This dissertation is limited to study the case of Food Street of Lucknow Case Study: Chowk, Old Lucknow. 1.4. Methodology: Steps for methodology: 1. A) Literature study of Lucknow‘s cuisine B) Source: Secondary survey, related book, journals, articles, dissertation etc. C) History of cuisines of Lucknow Type and typology of cuisines Type of user group 2. A) Case study :Chandni Chowk, Delhi-6 B) Source: DDA, Proposal for development of Chandni Chowk C) Analyse the data D) Inferences (steps taken for solution of issues) 3. A) Site study: Chowk, Old Lucknow B) Source: primary survey C) Number of cuisines Type and typology of cuisines Typology of users of street Strength and weakness of space- Urban spaces associated with fooding activities and space required to facilitate these activities. D) Analyse E) Inferences 4. A) Investigating issues, if any. B) Suggesting applicable methods / ideas for development and promotion C) Guidelines for development 5. Conclusion.
  • 15. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 4 CHAPTER 2: AREA OF STUDY: LUCKNOW
  • 16. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 5 2.1 INTRODUCTION Lucknow is the capital of Uttar Pradesh, the most populous state of India. It had a population of 2,815,601 in 2011. Located in what historically known as the Awadh region, it has always been a multicultural city. Courtly manners, beautiful gardens, poetry, music, and fine cuisine patronized by the Persian-loving Shia Nawabs of the city are well known.t is popularly known as the city of nawabs. It is also known as the Golden City of the East, Shiraz-i-Hind and the Constantinople of India. In the 18th century, Lucknow became the capital of Awadh. Under the patron of the Nawabs, the city flourished as a centre of a unique culture known for its exotic cuisine and its very rich language and poetry. From Chowk and Nakkhas to Aminabad and Hazratganj, the eighty-odd years preceding 1857 saw the emergence of early modern Lucknow. Rulership was the monopoly of Nawabs and Taluqdars, neither entire modern nor democratic; tends to emerge of new desires and aspiration for new social groups. This formed the emergence of complexity in elements in everyday life in Lucknow. From language and dress to music and cuisine.1 2.2. LOCATION: Lucknow is the capital of Uttar Pradesh in India, also the administrative 1 Llewellyn Rosie-“Lucknow -Then and Now”, Ch-Lucknow food street and bazaars. Figure 2: Location map of Uttar Pradesh. Source: wikimedia.org Figure 1: Lucknow City Map, Source:www.mapofindia.com
  • 17. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 6 headquarters of Lucknow district and Lucknow division. Lucknow is what historically known as the Awadh region at an altitude of about 128 meters (420 ft.) above the mean sea level and lies on 26.85 N latitude and 80.92 E longitudes. Well connected to all the four major regions and cities like Delhi, Kanpur, Jhansi, Varanasi and Gorakhpur etc. 2.3. HISTORIC EVOLUTION: Lucknow has never been the capita of city of a large and important kingdom and thus there is no strong urban and architectural expression of power. Instead it developed through spontaneous additions and accretion by consecutive rulers over the centuries, the river imposed an order of the city and important buildings and complexes were located on its banks. The meandering of the river organized the city structure in a gentle curve. Lucknow dates back to seventh century BC, though there are no existing structures from this period the valiant brother of mythological king Ram Charan, Laxman. There still exists a mound near the river called the Lakshman ka tila that is a reminder of the city‘s origin. 2.3.1. Pre-British period: Historic records of Lucknow are available from 1031 AD when Lucknow was attacked by a Muslim King for the first time. The Afghan military leader Syed Salar mastuad attacked the city and the surrounding area of Awadh under the rein of Mahmud Ghazni. Thereafter Lucknow had a series of Muslim rulers, several of which were representatives of the Tughlaq and Lodhi rulers in Delhi at that time. In 1530, the Afghan ruler in Delhi, Sher Shah Suri established a silver and Figure 3: Bada Imambada built in 1784. Source: www.trodly.com
  • 18. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 7 copper mint in Lucknow. The city grew rapidly of the time and several important buildings including the macchi Bhawan and the Panch Mahal were built. It flourished as a centre for trade and commerce and it added some new residential areas under the next emperor Jehangir. During the reign of the king Aurangzeb in Delhi, a mosque was built on the famous mound, Lakshman ka Tila. In 1720, Saadat Khan was the appointed ruler of Lucknow and a representative of one of the Mughal Kings. He founded the Awadh dynasty and proclaimed himself the Nawab of Awadh; this marked the beginning of an important time in the history of Lucknow when it was no longer a subordinate province of Delhi. In 1754, he was succeeded by Nawab Shuja-ud-daula who refused to transfer revenue to Delhi. He moved the Capital to Faizabad. Lucknow became a much smaller town, with two main areas of living one near Chowk and the other close to Machhi Bhawan. The rest of the city became overgrown and covered by green area.2 His successor Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula moved the capital back to Lucknow in 1775. He made extensive addition to the city building several building and gardens. Some of the prominent tourist location in Lucknow today was built in his reign. His successor Nawab saadat Ali Khan was announced by the British in 1798 and was succeeded by his son Nawab Ghazi-ud-Din who was replaced by Mohammed Ali Shah and finally by Wajid Ali Shah (1847-56). 2.3.2. The British period: The first war of independence was in 1857. The British were kept prisoner in the residency and other English homes for several days till military support arrived to help them. The city of Lucknow was taken over by the 2 Oldenburg,1990 Figure 4: Residency built in 1780-1800. Source: gettohimanshu.wikipedia.com
  • 19. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 8 British east India Company and Wajid Ali Shah had to sign a treaty surrendering the exclusive governance of his territories. The British proceeded to make several charges in the city of Lucknow. Two fifth of the city was demolished. New roads were built and all buildings were exception of old historic buildings. 2.3.3. After independence: When India got its independence in 1947, Lucknow saw a great increase in population due to migration of refugees after the national partition. Congestion in older parts of the city further increased. Over the decades Lucknow has grown stronger as an administrative town. The main economic basis of Lucknow has been administrative, judicial and institutional functions and other services and business they support. Today Lucknow is listed among the Metro cities in India. 2.4 GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE: Situated in the middle of the Gangetic plain, Lucknow city is surrounded by its rural towns and villages viz. the orchard town of Malihabad, Kakori, Mohanlal Ganj, Gosaiganj, Chinhat, Itaunja. On the eastern side lies Barabanki District, on the western side is Unnao District, on the southern side Raebareli District, and on the northern side are Sitapur and Hardoi districts.3 The Gomti River, the chief geographical feature, meanders through the city, dividing it into the trans-Gomti and Cis-Gomti regions. Lucknow city is located in the seismic zone III. Lucknow has a warm humid subtropical climate with cool, dry winters from December to February and dry, hot summer from April to June. 3 Lucknow city profile Figure 5: Hazratganj in 1971 Source: www.lucknowbookclub.com
  • 20. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 9 2.5. REGIONAL LINKAGE: Lucknow is well connected with the city around it by road, railways and International and domestic airways. It has direct connection with Kanpur, Faizabad, Sitapur and Allahabad, both by rail and road. 2.6 CITY PROFILE: Lucknow started its beginning as an administrative service base and it continues so even today. The city clearly has a middle class bias as a predominantly working class population. Around 20% of the total retail shops of Lucknow are concentrated in Chowk, Aminabad and Hazratganj, the major commercial areas of the city. Master plan 2001 proposed residential use up to 66% of the total land areas, which reveals an alarming housing demand in the city. 2.7 SOCIO CULTURE ASPECT:4 2.7.1 Sham-e-Awadh Sham-e-Awadh was famous and much has been written about its atmosphere of twinkling music and table with ghungroo, mujra dance performance and melodious singing of ghazaland thumri (a form of classic music) associated with it. Lucknow even had its own Music Gharana (Lucknow Gharana), Bhatkhande Music Institute provides teaching of music till the date. 4 Abbas SA, “Incredible Lucknow- A Visitors Guide”, http;//Lucknow.me/Shaam-e-Awadh.html. Figure 6: Lucknow regional connectivity Source:www.lucknow.nic.in Figure 7: Asifi Mosque, Imambada. Source:www.tripoto.com
  • 21. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 10 2.7.2 Aadaab-e-Lucknow: Rooted within the walls of the old city, the style has spread its perfume all around and its traces are vivid in the common way of speech of the residents of Lucknow, irrespective of religion, caste and status. 2.7.3 Dance and Music: Music and dance in Lucknow has been much influenced by the Mughal rule India. The kings were known to lead a life of pleasure and their main source of entertainment was to indulge in music and dance. The royal court has some of the best dancers and musicians of Lucknow. The performance in dance & music in Lucknow was something that was worth watching. Even today, various artists all over India keep Lucknow music and dance alive. 2.7.4 Craft: For centuries Lucknow has been famous for its varous handicrafts works. The Nawabs of Awadh were great patrons of fine arts of which the most well- known is the exquisite Chikan work. Chikan is a unique craft involving delicate and artistic hand embroidery in a variety of textile fabric like muslin, silk, chffon, organza, doriya and organdie. Figure 8: Courtesy of Lucknow. Source:www.dnaindia.com Figure 9: Legecy of Dance and Music. Source: pinterest.com Figure 10: Lucknow Chikan Work. Source:www.lucknowchikan.com
  • 22. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 11 2.7.5 Cuisine: Like various others art forms. The culinary art of Lucknow was also raised to a fine art under royal patronage. A favourite past time of the nobility of Awadh was perfecting the art of cooking. The richness of Awadh cuisine lies not only in the variety of cuisine but also is the ingredient used in creating such a variety. 2.8 SOCIO ECONOMIC ASPECT: The major industries in the Lucknow Urban Agglomeration include aeronautics machine tools, distillery chemicals, and furniture and chikan embroidery. Lucknow has traditionally been associated with chikan embroidery work on readymade garment, sarees, etc. with most units being small scale and house hold bases located in the old city areas.
  • 23. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 12 CHAPTER 3: CUISINE OF LUCKNOW
  • 24. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 13 3.1 ORIGIN OF THE CUISINES IN LUCKNOW: Lucknow is one of the cities which is known for its rich history and culture manifest not just in its many magnificent monument but an intrinsic part of its lifestyle. Lucknow emanates a culture that combines emotional warmth, a high degree of sophistication, courtesy and love for gracious living. What appeal the most are the cuisines of Lucknow which in some way was a culmination of all that was best in art, culture and science5 . The Cuisines of Lucknow were all the food items have their own unique identity and individuality, with a strong influence of the traditional Mughal royal cuisine. All the cooks are taught professionally to provide a district regal look and taste to the food. The rulers of Awadh engaged in peaceful life, since battle of Buxar and laid the foundation of a culture which overwhelms the world. Under their patronage development a cuisine which did not remain the prerogative of royalty alone. Recipes travelled from the royal kitchen of nobilities and from there, to the kitchen of ordinary people. Since that time research and innovations proceeded in the Royal Kitchens where money and time were no constrained. Historically the credit to put Lucknow on the gastronomical map of world goes to the Nawabs- right from its first Nawab Burhan-ul-Malik to Nawab Wajid Ali Shah. For the statistically oriented, 19 types of Kebabs6 , 37 types of bread, 35 types of Zarda7 , 47 types of pulao (rice dishes), 37 types of sweets were created through gastronomical innovations during the reign of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula8 . 5 http://www.scribd.com/doc/2030831/Awadhi-Cuisine 6 Kebab- it is prepared in Lucknow from finely ground meat, spiced and fried in the shape and size of hamburgers. 7 Zerda- a sweet rice dish with saffron and raisins, prepared for special occasions. 8 http://indiandiplomacy.in/meadocument/11200901.pdf, India Perspective
  • 25. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 14 In the mid-18th century, in the reign of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula, each day food for the Nawab and Begum came from six separate kitchens. Firstly there was Nawab‘s own main kitchen. In this kitchen two thousand rupees a day were spent on food which is apart from the wages of the cooks and other servants. The second kitchen was the subsidiary royal kitchen. Here three hundred rupees were spent on food. The third kitchen belonged to Bahu Begum. The fourth was the kitchen of Nawab Begum, Shuja-Ud-Daula‘s mother. All these six kitchens were excellent and everyday produce the most sumptuous food for the dinner of the ruler9 . Since the time of Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula a very high standard of cooking was maintained. The very best cooked were enlisted, elaborate efforts were made in the preparation of foods and innovations were introduced. Expert cooks from Delhi and other places polished up their skills and invented new delicacies and special savours. As the food for Nawab Shuja-Ud-Daula‘s came from six different kitchens. This was not confined to him alone. It continued after his time and the honour was also according to some chosen nobles and especially to the royal relations. There was a practice of special art which produce one particular substance in several different guises. Such that when placed on the table it looked as if there were scores of different kind of delicacies, but when one tasted them they were all the same. For this there was an incident where a Prince Mirza Asman Qadar, the son of Mirza Khurram Bakht of Delhi, who came to Lucknow and became Shia, was invited to dine by Wajid Ali Shah. 9 Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Last Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University Press, Delhi Gastronomy, 28, 155-159 Figure 11: Kakori Kebab. Source www.scribe.com:
  • 26. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 15 Before him the cook presented a conserve- Murabba10 . It was looking very light, tasty and delicious. When Asman Qadar tasted it, he became intrigued because it was not a conserve at all but a korma, a meat curry which the chef had made to look exactly like a conserve. Similarly during the reign of Nasir-Ud-Din Haider, a cook came to Lucknow who made Khichri11 . The practice of making delicious food by the cooks in the royal kitchen, the royals also took interest in the matter of food. The cooks tried various innovations. So, the emphasis was not just only in the preparation of food but lots of efforts made for its good appearance and taste. With this practice one of the cook invented a pulau which resembled an anar dana (pomegranate seed) in which half of each grain of rice was fried red like a ruby and other half was white and sprinkled like a crystal. It looks as if filled with the coloured jewels.12 It was not royalty alone who pampered their cooks. The nobility, aristocracy and people of lesser means too maintained well stocked and well-staffed kitchens from where were turned out the most exotic of dishes. Begums and ordinaty housewives too preserved in their kitchens and acquired an excellence that could match the skills of a professional bawarchi13 . 10 Murabba- A thick highly spiced conserve of vegetables with an oil and vinegar base. 11 Khichri- A simple dish of boiled rice and millets. 12 Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Last Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University Press, Delhi. Gastronomy, 28, 155-159 13 Bawarchi-known as cook, cook is person who prepare meals in large quantity.
  • 27. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 16 3.2 Preparation of Cuisines: According to legend Dum Pukht14 cuisine was discovered when Nawab Asif-Ud-Daula decreed that the builders of Bara Imam Bara Mosque should have access to food day and night. Street cooks assembled giant pots, filled them with rice, meat, vegetables and spices and placed them on gently simmering fires. The lids were sealed with dough and topped with hot coals to slow-cook the food and keep iit warm around the clock. When the Nawab tasted the food during an inspection, he was most impressed and ordered his chiefs to refine the cooking technique in the royal kitchens. ―Dum Pukht‖, means ‗to breathe‘ and ‗to cook‘. The cuisine owes its excellence to the fact that the food, sealed in a dish and slow-cooked in its own juices, retains all its natural aromas and flavour.15 The cooking of food becomes an art during Nawabi reign and at this period there were three classes of people employed in preparation of food. First were the scullions who cleaned enormous pots and dished and worked under the cook. Second was bawarchi, the cook who prepared the meals in the large quantity. The rakabdar16 , the chef, they were the most expert and usually cooked in small pots for few people only. The chefs were more towards presentation and serving of foods. Normally, one cook does not prepare the entire meal. There are specialists for different dishes and also a variety of helpers like the degbos who wash the utensils, the masalchis whogrind the spices and the mehris who carry 14 Dum Pukht- The cuisine of Awadh, India is the original cuisine which introduced Dum Pukht to the world. Dum’ means to ‘breathe in’ and ‘Pukht’ to ‘cook’. Dum Pukht cooking used a round, heavy bottomed pot, a handi, in which food is tightly sealed and cooked over a slow fire. There are main aspects to this style of cooking; ‘roasting’ and ‘maturing’ of a prepared dish. Dum Pukht food is about aroma, when the seal is broken on the table and the fragrance of an Avadhi cuisine floats in the air. 15 http://www.scribd.com/doc/1291129/Lucknow-Cuisine 16 Rakabdar- they are the chefs, who were the most expert and usually cooked in small pots for few people. Traditionally it refers to a highly skilled professional who is proficient in all aspect of food preparation.
  • 28. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 17 the khwan (tray) to be spread on the dastarkhwan17 . There were the royal who had their kitchen suoervisors known as daroga- e-bawarchi khana or mohtamim. This officer‘s seal was put for the guaranteed quality control.18 3.3 TRADITIONAL CUISINES: Dastarkhwan, a Persian term, literally means a meticulously laid-out ceremonial dining spread. It is customary in Awadh to sit around and share the Dastarkhwan. Laden with the finest and the most varied repertoire of the khansamas (chefs), the Dastarkhwan of the raeis (the rich) were called Khasa (special).19 The richness of Awadhi cuisine lies not only in the variety of cuisine but also is the ingredients used in creating such a variety. The Chefs of Awadhi transformed the traditional dastarkhwan with elaborate dishes like kababs, kormas, kaliya, nahari-kulchas, zarda, sheermal, roomali rotis, and parathas. The Awadhi/Lucknow dastarkhwan would not be complete unless it had the following dishes. a. Qorma (braised meat in thick gravy), b. salan (a gravy dish of meat or vegetable), c. qeema (minced meat), 17 Dastarkhwan-it is a table cloth, usually square and yellow in color with verses in Urdu or Persia printed by wood cut around the edges in black. Food was served on this cloth usually placed on the floor. This was at the time of Nawabi era; nowadays “Dastarkhwan” literally means a meticulously laid-out ceremonial dining spread. 18 Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University Press, Delhi. Gastronomy, 28, 155-159 19 file:///E:/JMI/sem%203/disertation/sites/Awadhi%20cuisine%20_%20Project%20Gutenberg %20Self-Publishing%20-%20eBooks%20_%20Read%20eBooks%20online.htm
  • 29. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 18 d. kababs (pounded meat fried or roasted over a charcoal fire), e. lamb f. pasinda (fried slivers of very tender meat, usually kid, in gravy) g. Rice is cooked with meat in the form in the form of a  pulao,  chulao (fried rice) or  served plain. h. There would also be a variety of rotis. i. Desserts comprise  kheer (milk sweetened and boiled with whole rice to a thick consistency),  sheer brunj, (a rich, sweet rice dish boiled in milk),  firni The menu changes with the seasons and with the festival that marks the month. The severity of winters is fought with rich food. Payee (Taluqdar of Jehangirabad would serve it to his friends on several occasions during winter. Peas are the most sought after vegetable in Awadh. One can spot peas in salan, qeema, pulao or just fried plain. Spring (Sawan) is celebrated with pakwan (crisp snacks), phulkis (besan pakoras in salan), puri-kababs and birahis (paratha stuffed with mashed dal) khandoi (steamed balls of dal in a salan), laute paute (gram flour pancakes—rolled, sliced, and served in a salan), and jaggery or sugar, make a dessert called curamba. These dishes come from the rural Hindu population of Awadh. Figure 12: Laziz Lauki. Source:www.scribe.com
  • 30. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 19 Activity in the kitchen increases with the approach of festivals. During Ramzan, the month of fasting, the cooks and women of the house are busy throughout the day preparing the iftari (the meal eaten at the end of the day‘s fast), not only for the family but for friends and the poor. Eid is celebrated with varieties of siwaiyan (Muharram, since it signifies a sad state of mind. Some dishes appear and disappear from the Lucknow dastarkhwan seasonally, and others are a permanent feature, like qorma, chapatti, and roomali roti. The test of a good chapatti is that you should be able to see the sky through it. The dough should be very loose and is left in a lagan (deep broad vessel) filled with water for half an hour before the chapattis are made There was also round roti made up of white flour, normally eaten with non- vegetarian gravy based dishes. Then sheermal – it is a flatbread of Lucknow which is flavoured with saffron. The Warqi parathas- these are crispy parathas cooked in ghee until brown and crisp from both sides20 . Another dish Nahari-kulchas – this is a popular Lucknow food where mutton preparation is served with kulhas: Nahari is a meat preparation with thick spicy gravy, however, originally nehari refer to beef dishes instead of mutton dishes. The kulchas, are the bread with a delicate layers of a puffy pastry. In the traditional cuisine of Lucknow first comes the biryani. ‗Lucknow‘ biryani owes its success to a homogenous blend of spices. Meat cooked with fragrant spices, combined with rice in layer and finished on dum style. It is said that world‘s best biryani are sold here. Lucknow and biryani have almost a symbolic relation for the gourmet. There have been debates whether Lucknow‘s biryani is an authentic biryani. Vir Sanghvi, the renowned food writerand journalist, states that: 20 http://www.scribd.com/doc/12914129/Lucknow-Cuisine
  • 31. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 20 “Lucknow, it turns out, is pulao country. It is also the place for outstanding kababs and kormas. And it has the best chaat in the entire country. I went to Lucknow as part of the great biryani search. But all controversies about whether Lucknow made a biryani or a pulao were quickly settled. Every single person I met in Lucknow was clear that Lucknow only dealt in pulao, not in biryani. There is no clear distinction between a biryani and a pulao unless you take the Hyderabadi line that only a biryani made with raw (rather than cooked) meat is the real thing”21 The next comes the vast varieties of kebabs in the traditional cuisines of Lucknow, especially the Tundey ke kebab or gelawati kebabs or kakori kebabs it is said that, these are known for its melt-in-the-mouth, there were two reasons for being so soft, and the fact was that the Nawabs of Lucknow were so indolent that they did not want to chew. The second reason given was that because they were so spoilt, by the time they hit their twenties, their teeth had rotted away due to drug usage and over- indulgence in the Lucknow‘s desserts and sweets. The other known kebabs are shaami kebab, boti kebabs, pasanda kebabs, patili-ke-kebabs, ghutwa kebabs and seekh kebabs. These kebabs are the honour of the city Lucknow22 Deserts comprise gullati – rice pudding, kheer- milk sweetened and boiled with whole rice to thick consistency, sheer brunj – a rice, sweet rice dish boiled in milk, majaffar – vermicelli tried in ghee and garnished with saffron and malai gilori and lassi. 3.4 TRADITIONAL SPICES:23 Cuisines of Lucknow had a history. The uniqueness of the tundey kabab lies in its masalas which is a guarded family secret and prepared by the women in the family. The flavour and aroma to the food were added with 21 http://blogs.hindustantimes.com/rude-food/2009/04/05/lucknow-diary 22 http://shantanughosh.com/2007/0/of-nawabs-and-kababs.html. 23 Dissertation on “Reviving the cousins of Lucknow” by Asma Hameed,JMI
  • 32. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 21 the use of varieties of spices. The meat is tenderized wirth raw papaya, imbued with over 100 aromatic and digestive spices for atleast 14 hours, ground over 30 times to a fine patee-like consistency, made into patties, and then pan-fried. For Nehari the masala powder prepared in bulk under personal supervision, using the family secret of grnerations, in which they incorporated 23 herbs and spices. Lucknowi Biryani owes its success to a homogenous blend of spices. Meat cooked with ffragrent spices, and rice is separately boiled in aromatic spices, then combined with rice in layers and finished on dum is known as biryani. Mostly the meat preparation are done by using spices like pepper, cloves, cardamom, cinnamom, bay leaves, coriander, mint leaves, ginger, onions, and garlic etc. The premium varietis include saffron. Saffron is also used as a coloring agent usually in biryani. The kewra water is also used as an essential essence for food to give an aroma. 3.5 TRADITIONAL UTENSILS: 3.5.1 Bhagona - also known as patili, is generally of brass with a lid. It is used when a great deal of sauté is required, or even for boiling and simmering. It is also used for preparing Yakhni, Salan or Korma. 3.5.2 Deg/Degchi – This is a pear- shaped pot with a lid of brass, copper or aluminium. The shape of this utensil is ideally suited for the ‗dum‘ method and is used for cooking Pulao, Biryani, Nehari. The shape allows for slow cooking as it traps all the steam inside the utensil. Figure 13: Bhagona. Source: www.nishienterprise.com Figure 14: Deg/Degchi. Source:www.heritageartscoachin.com
  • 33. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 22 3.5.3 Kadhai – is a deep, concave utensil made of brass, iran or aluminium an is used for deep frying of snacks like samosa, puri, kachori etc. 3.5.4 Lagan – Lagan is a traditional round and shallow copper utensil with a slightly concave bottom. Used for cooking whole or big cuts of meat or poultry especially when heat is applied from both the top and bottom. 3.5.5 Lohe ka Tandor- Is typically an iron tandoor, distinct from the clay tandoor which is more common in Delhi. It is a dome- shaped iron oven covered with iron sheet, used for cooking a variety of bread like- Sheermal, Taaftan, Bakarkhani etc. 3.5.6 Mahi tawa- Mahi tawa is Awadhi version of the griddle shaped like a big round, flat bottomed tray with raised edges, used for cooking kababs. Also used for dishes where heat is applied from ends, when covered. Figure 15: Aluminium Kadai . Source:www.dsource.in Figure 16: Aluminium Lagan. Source:www.zaaiqa.net Figure 17: Iron Tandoor. Source:www.rameshtandoor.com Figure 18: Mahi Tawa. Source: www.team.bhp.com
  • 34. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 23 3.5.7 Seeni- Seeni is a big thali (round tray) usually used as a lid for the lagan ormahi tawa when heat is to be applied from the top. Live charcoal is placed on it and the heat is transmitted through it to the food. Thus the indirect heat has the desired effect of browning and cooking the ingredients. All the copper and brass utensils are almost always used after ‗kalai‘ or tin plating the inside24 All the utensils used for the cuisines in Lucknow are design such that the heat is trapped into it. Utensils are made either of iron or copper. The food is cooked in steam, which results in a dum-pukht style. Bone china plates and dishes are used in Lucknow since the time of Nawabs. Water was normally sipped from copper or silver katoras and not glasses. 3.6 THE FOOD TRAIL IN LUCKNOW: The best-known kabab of Lucknow is, of course, the galawati. This is a melt-in-the-mouth patty of finely-minced mutton or beef marinated with a host of spices and condiments, then shallow-fried on a large tawa or a cast-iron girdle fired by charcoal. It pairs well with a roomali roti. There is this legendary restaurant Tunday Kababi in the old quarters of Aminabad whose original owners stake claim to having invented this culinary delight. As the legend goes, chef Haji Murad Ali, a man with just one arm hence the nom de plume Tunda, invented the galawati in 1905. At that time he had a small eatery by the same name in the Chowk area, which was literally a hole-in-the-wall outlet and still exists. The galawati was first made for an ageing nobleman with no teeth who yearned for some kebabs. 24 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Awadhi_cuisine Figure 19: Brass Plate (Seeni). Source:www.omanisilver.com
  • 35. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 24 Today galawatis are available at a host of places. Tunday themselves have many franchises, even outside Lucknow. Most of these eateries serve a mean galawati and more. Other kababs famous in Lucknow, some of which are made only with advance notice, include the burras (try them at Shekhawat), kakoris, kalmi, patili, ghutwa, and pasandas. Food experts say some 45 kababs are indigenous to Lucknow, which also has its own version of rogan josh. Vegetarian kebabs include Dalcha Kebab, Kathal ke Kebab, Arbi ke Kebab, Rajma Galoti Kebab (kidney bean kebab cooked with aromatic herbs), Zamikand ke Kebab (Lucknowi yam kebabs), etc. This city has some good fare for vegetarians too. Not that mutton-gluttons can't dig into them. The vegetarian kababs include Dalcha and paneer, as also others made of kidney beans, raw jackfruit, Arbi or Colocasia and yam kebabs. Mornings are best reserved for the traditional poorie or khasta kachori with alu-kaddu sabzi. Top it with jalebi and milk that has simmered for hours, or a glass of lassi. If you have already gorged on nihari-kulcha the previous day, this is a welcome break. The vegetarian fare comes alive early evenings when the famous chaats of Lucknow are in full bloom. The popular chaat joints include Jain, Radhey Lal, Shukla, Chhappan Bhog, Shree Ram and Jagdish. Lucknow do have the gol gappas or paani-poories, which locals call batashas. Here, the casings are filled with a combination of curd and chutney. A different take from what you get in Delhi, Mumbai or Kolkata. Also the alu tikkis in Lucknow that are stuffed with some secret masalas and green peas, as also the crumbling-in-the-mouth khasta tikkis. Another speciality is the tokri chaat - which looks like a sprouted salad with white, red, green dressing served in a bird's nest.
  • 36. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 25 Kulfis are also a must. Finally, a paan does wonders. Even though the city of Banaras is more famous, don't despair. Lucknow's paans are equally good and help keep the palate and the momentum going to tuck in more. 3.7 List of top Lakhnavi Recipies:25 1. Galouti Kebab-Non VEG Recipe by Niru Gupta Kebabs are an all-time favourite food in Lucknow. Try these delicious kebabs flavoured with hot spices and peppercorns, sprinkled with lemon juice. 2. Chicken Shammi Kebab- NON VEG Recipe by Akhtar Rehman, Foodistan Juicy chicken kebabs mixed with chana dal and aromatic spices, smeared with eggs and fried crisp. 3. Sheermal- BREAD Recipe by Niru Gupta Golden dough made of flour, sugar, milk and flavored with saffron, cooked until brown and served brushed with ghee. 4.Dum Murg ki Kacchi Biryani- NON VEG Recipe by Aditya Bal Marinated chicken flavoured with saffron, milk and a host of masalas, combined with rice to cook up a steaming biryani. 5.Kaju Curry-VEG Recipe by Niru gupta A Lucknawi delight, your favourite vegetables are cooked with nuts and khoya gravy, garnished fresh with coriander leaves and served hot! 25 ///NDTVFood.htm; access on 26 th Oct 2015
  • 37. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 26 6. Kakori Kebab- NON VEG Recipe by Niru gupta These melt-in-your-mouth kebabs are a star of Lucknawi dinner parties! Minced lamb or mutton is smeared with a luscious marinade of aromatic spices and grilled beautiful. It derives its name from the city of Kakori on the outskirts of Lucknow. 7. Dum Aloo Lakhnavi- VEG Recipe by Andy Crispy fried potatoes stuffed with paneer and traditional spices, blended with savory tomato, onion gravy and served hot. 8. Murg Shahi Korma- NON VEG Recipe by Niru Gupta Creamy chicken curry, with a distinct nutty taste, laced with piquant spices. This is one of the traditional royal recipes of the Lucknawi cuisine. 9. Pasanday- NON VEG Recipe by Niru Gupta Mutton is cooked till tender in a marinade of fiery spices, gravy and garnished with cream and almonds. This one is an absolute crowd pleaser. 10.Shahi Tukda with Pineapple- VEG Recipe by Marut Sikka Fairly easy to make, Shahi tukda is a rich and delicious blend of saffron infused milk, bread and pineapple garnished with almonds and pistachios. 11. Lakhnavi Biryani (complete recipe)-Non Veg Biryani derives from the Persian word Biryani, which means "roasted before cooking." Biryani is a mixture of basmati rice, meat, vegetables, yogurt, and spices. Lucknow biryani or awadh biryani is a form of pukki biryani. Pukki means "cooked." Both meat and rice are cooked separately,
  • 38. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 27 then layered and baked. The process also lives up to the name biryani in the Persian meaning "fry before cooking'. It has three steps. First, the meat is seared in ghee and cooked in water with warm aromatic spices till tender. The meat broth is drained. Second, the rice is lightly fried in Ghee, and cooked in the meat broth from the previous step. Third, cooked meat and cooked rice are layered in a handi. Sweet flavors are added. The handi is sealed and cooked over low heat. The result is a perfectly cooked meat, rice, and a homogenous flavor of aromatic meat broth, aromatic spices and sweet flavors. The difference between biryani and pullao is that pullao is made by cooking the meat in ghee with warm aromatic spices until the meat is tender, then adding rice and cooking in the sealed pot over low heat till done—but with biryani, the rice is boiled or parboiled separately in spiced water and then layered with meat curry or marinade (depending on the type of biryani), then sealed and cooked over low heat until done. 12. Tehri is the name given to the vegetarian version of the dish and is very popular in Indian homes. 3.7.1 SPECIAL VEGETARIAN RECIPIES 26 1.KHASTE MATHURA ALOO RECIPE 26 http://khanapakana.com/lucknowrecipe; accessed on 26th Oct 2015 Figure 20: Image o Khaste Mathura Aloo. Source:khanapakana.com
  • 39. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 28 Ingredients Potatoes, boiled and peeled and cubed 6 Green chillies finely chopped 3 Dry ginger powder 1/2 tbsp Mango powder 1 tbsp Red chilli powder to taste 1 tbsp Turmeric powder 1 tbsp Sugar 2 tbsp Cumin seeds 1 tbsp Asafoetida 1/4 tbsp Cilantro/corainder leaves chopped 1 cup Oil or ghee 4 Salt to taste Method  Heat oil/ ghee in a heavy pan or wok and add asafoetida and cumin seeds.  When they pop, add turmeric, ginger, mango powder, sugar, chilli and salt.  Add potatoes and mix to coat the potaoes withthe spices.  Heat till potatoes brown but turn freqently.  Sprinkle cilantro or coriander leaves.  Serve hot with Indian pooris and raita.
  • 40. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 29 2. MASALA BHINDI RECIPE Ingredients Tender okra 1 lb Onion chopped finely large 1 Ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp Red chilli powder to taste 1 tbsp Turmeric powder 1/2 tbsp Garam masala 1 tbsp Oil 2 tbsp Salt to taste Other seasoning Fried onions from our store Cloves garlic minced 4 Coconut powder 1 tbsp Green chilli minced 1 Tamarind juice 1/2 cup Salt to taste Method  Heat oil in a pan and add the chopped onion and fry till it's brown in colour.  Add ginger garlic, turmeric, garam masala, chilli powder and salt to taste. Saute for a minute.  Add other seasonings and steam for 1 minute. Figure 21: Image of Masala Bhindi Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
  • 41. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 30  Cover and steam till the okra changes color and becomes soft. Serve hot with parathas and raita 3. KHATTA MEETHA KADOO RECIPE Ingredients Yellow pumpkin 400 gms A pinch of asafoetida Fenugreek seeds 1/2 tbsp Grated Ginger 1 tbsp Green chillies finely chopped 2 green Corainder powder 2 tbsp Turmeric powder 1/2 tbsp Garam masla powder 1/4 tbsp Red chilli powder 1 tbsp Salt to taste Sugar 2 tbsp Lemon juice 1 1/2 tbsp Fresh corainder finely chopped Oil 3-4 tbsp Figure 22: Image of Khatta Meetha Kadoo Recipe. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
  • 42. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 31 Method:  Heat oil in a kadai or wok. Add Asafoetida, fenugreek seeds.  Now add ginger. When it turns brown add green chillies and pumpkin and mix.  Add salt, turmeric powder, coriander powder, garam masala powder and red chilli powder and mix well.  Cover and cook on a medium heat for 10-12 minutes. Stirring occasionally.  Now add sugar and lemon juice, mix well. Cover and cook for another 10 minutes or until done.  The pumpkin pieces should look like mashed.  Garnish with chopped coriander. Serve hot with pooris. 4. LUCKNOW KOFTA Ingredients For Koftas Shredded cabbage 2 cups Shredded carrots 1 cup Methi washed and chopped 1/2 cup Corainder washed and chopped 1/2 cup Salt to taste Juice of lime 1 Corn flour or besan 1/2 cup Figure 23: Lucknow Kofta. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
  • 43. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 32 Red chilli powder 1/4 tbsp Oil for frying For curry gravy Onions finely chopped 2 Tomato pureed large 1 Plain non-fat yogurt 1 cup Milk 1 cup Cream 1/4 cup Turmeric 1/2 tbsp Corainder powder 2 tbsp Sugar 1/2 tbsp Salt to taste Garam masala powder 1/4 tbsp Oil 4 tbsp Almonds, soaked and peeled 12 Poppy seeds 3 tbsp Melon seeds 3 tbsp Ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp Green chillies 3-4 Method  For koftas, mix all the ingedients of koftas together and divide into equal portions and shape into long rolls, deep-fry till golden in colour.  Drain and keep aside. Heat oil in a pan and fry chopped onions till golden brown.  Add the grinded ingredients and stir-fry for few minutes.  Add turmeric powder, corriander powder,sugar and salt. Stir-fry for few seconds. Stir in tomato puree and cook on high heat, stirring continuously till oil begins to separate.  Now add yogurt, milk and cream and cook stirring continuously till oil begins to separate.  Add 1 cups of water and bring to boil. Simmer and cook for 5-10 minutes or until desired consistency.
  • 44. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 33  Just before eating, place the fried koftas in a serving dish and pour the hot gravy over and serve immediately garnished with garam masala powder and chopped cilantro. 5. SWEET RICE PUDDING RECIPE Ingredients Whole milk 4 cups Sugar 1/4 cup 1/4 cup Rice washed and soaked in 3/4cup water for an hour and kept aside with water Condensed milk 1/2 cup Golden raisins 2 tbsp Small piece of nutmeg powder Almonds balanced and silvered Green cardamoms powdered 4 Saffron threads soaked in little warm milk 1/2 tbsp Dry mango powder 1 tbsp Method  Cook the rice in the same water until the rice is fully cooked and water has dried up. Figure 24: Sweet Rice Pudding. Source:www.Khanakhazana.com
  • 45. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 34  To the cooked rice add milk. When the milk starts boiling, simmer and leave the kheer to cook till the milk starts thickening, stirring occasionally.  Mash the rice a little, add sugar and condensed milk. Add raisins, almonds and saffron.  Boil the mixture one more time.  Remove from flame; add cardamom powder and nutmeg powder. Keep aside.  Allow to cool and then referigerate. Serve well chilled. 3.8 TYPES OF BREADS (ROTI): Several types of roti are found and named depending either on their material or preparation method. Breads made of other grains have descriptive names only, thus we have Makai ki roti, Jowar ki roti (barley flour roti), Bajre ki roti (bajra is a grain only grown in India), chawal-ki-Roti (roti of rice flour). Other bread includes: Chapati is the most popular roti in India, eaten for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Puris are small and deep fried so they puff up. Paratha is a common roti variant stuffed with fillings of vegetables, pulses, cottage cheese, and even minces meat and fried in ghee or clarified butter. This heavy and scrumptious round bread finds its way to the breakfast tables of millions. Rumali Roti is thin bread baked on a convex metal pan. The Urdu word rumaali means kerchief. Tandoori Roti is oven-baked thicker bread that can be crispy or chewy. The Urdu word tandoor means an oven.
  • 46. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 35 Naan -Naan is thick bread, softer and richer in texture and consistency than the tandoori roti. It is made from finely ground wheat flour kneaded into a very elastic mass Khasta- is hard hollow bread, filled with vegetables, dal and/or chole at serve. Sheermaal is a sweetened Naan made out of Maida (All-purpose flour), leavened with yeast, baked in a Tandoor or oven. It typically accompanies aromatic quorma (gravied chicken or mutton). Originally, it was made just like Roti. The warm water in the recipe for Roti was replaced with warm milk sweetened with sugar and flavoured with saffron. Today, restaurants make it like a Naan and the final product resembles Danish pastry. Baqarkhani is a variation of sheermaal that is cooked on a griddle rather than baked. 3.9 Desserts:27 Winters are dedicated to halwas of all kind. There are several varieties of these, prepared from different cereals, such as gram flour, sooji, wheat, nuts and eggs. The special halwa or halwa sohan, which has four varieties, viz Papadi, Jauzi, Habshi and Dudhiya is prepared especially well in Lucknow. The Jauzi Halwa Sohan is a hot favourite even today, but the art of preparing it is confined to only a few households. Prepared for the most part from germinated wheat, milk, sugar, saffron, nuts etc., it has love and patience as its vital ingredients. 3.10 Chaat: Chaat is a mixture of potato pieces, gram or chickpeas and tangy-salty spices, with sour home-made Indian chilli and Saunth (dried ginger and tamarind sauce), fresh green coriander leaves and yogurt for garnish, but 27 Source: World Heritage Encyclopedia™ licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0; accessed on 27 th oct 2015
  • 47. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 36 other popular variants included Aloo tikkis (garnished with onion, coriander, hot spices and a dash of curd), dahi puri, golgappa, dahi vada and papri chaat There are common elements among these variants including dahi, or yogurt; chopped onions and coriander; sev (small dried yellow salty noodles); and chaat masala, a spice mix typically consisting of amchoor (dried mango powder), cumin, Kala Namak (rock salt), coriander, dried ginger, salt, black pepper, and red pepper. The ingredients are combined and served on a small metal plate or a banana leaf, dried and formed into a bowl. Now a days in plastic/fiber plates. 3.11 OTHER IMPORTANT TERMS USED IN COOKING: 1. DHUA-GAR:- This is a quick smoke procedure used to flavor a meat dish, daIs, or raita. The smoke permeates every grain of the ingredients and imparts a subtle aroma, which enhances the quality of the dish. The procedure may be carried out either at the intermediate or the final stage of cooking. This is a common technique employed while making kababs. In a shallow utensil, or a lagan in which meat or mince has marinated, a small bay is made in the center, and a katori or onion skin or a betel leaf (depending on the dish) is placed. In it, a live coal is placed, and hot ghee, sometimes mixed with aromatic herbs or spices, is poured over it and covered immediately to prevent the smoke escaping. The lid kept on for about 15 minutes, to allow the smoke to flavor the ingredients. The coal is then removed and the meat cooked further. 2. DUM DENA/LAGANA- This is a frequently method used in Awadh cooking. 'Dum' literally means 'breath' and the process involves placing the semi-cooked ingredients in a pot or deg, sealing the utensil with flour dough and applying very slow charcoal fire from top, by placing some live charcoal on the lid, and some below. The Persian influence is most evident in this method though in
  • 48. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 37 Awadh it has acquired its own distinct character. The aroma, flavor, and texture of dum results from slow cooking. This method is employed by a number of delicacies such as the Shabdeg, Pulao and Biryani. Any dish cooked by this method is 'Dum Pukht' or 'Dum Bakht'. 3. GALAWAT- Refers to the use of softening agents is made from raw papaya or kalmi shora (common name:salt peter{potaassium nitrate}) to tenderise meat. 4. BAGHAR- This is a method of tempering a dish with hot oil or ghee, and spices. It may be done either at the beginning of the cooking, as in curries, or at the end as for (pulses). In the former, the fat is heated in a vessel to a smoking point, and after reducing the flame, spices are added. When they begin to crackle, the same process is carried out in a ladle, which is immersed in the cooked dish and immediately covered with a lid. This retains the essence and aroma of the spices, drawn out by the hot ghee. 5. GILE HIKMAT- Gil, in Persian, means earth or mud, and hikmat implies the procedure of the Hakims. This method is generally followed to prepare kushtas, which are the ash-like residue of substances that cannot be consumed in their natural form as they are toxic, for instance gems or metals. The meat or vegetable to be cooked is generally taken whole and stuffed with nuts and spices. It is then wrapped in a banana leaf or cloth and covered completely with clay or multani mitti (fuller's earth) to seal it. Then it is buried about 4–6 inches deep. A slow fire is placed on top for six to eight hours. Then the food is dug out and served 6. LOAB- Loab refers to the final stage in cooking, when the oil used during cooking rises to the surface to give the dish a finished appearance. This occurs mostly with slow cooking of gravy dishes.
  • 49. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 38 7. MOIN- It is the shortening of dough. In this process fat is rubbed into the flour and made into dough for kachoris or pooris orparathas. This makes the final product crisp, flaky and crumbly. 8. ITTAR/KEWRA (PERFUMES)- The use of perfumes plays an important role in Awadh cuisine they are used to enhance the aroma of the dish and make it delicate. Most commonly they are made from musk deer, hunting of which is now banned worldwide 9. YAKHNI CUTS (MEAT)- The cuts for Yakhni are generally bony pieces with flesh on them. These cuts are usually taken from the joints and the ribs of the animal. The basic purpose of mea t in preparing Yakhni is to derive the juice and flavour and hence the shape of the meat does not count much 10. CHANDI WARQ- In this process, small pieces of silver are placed between two sheets of paper, then patted continuously with a hammer until papery thin. These are used to decorat dishes before presentation, e.g., Chandi kaliya, Moti pulao. 11. ZAMIN DOZ- In this style of cooking, a hole is dug in the ground and the ingredients are placed and covered with mud, then a layer of burning charcoal. The cooking takes about six hours. 3.12 LIST OF AVADHI DISHES: 2.12.1 Desert/ fast food/ Sweets: 1. Almond Kulfi 2. Aloo Tikki
  • 50. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 39 3. Badam Halwa 4. Almond Seera 5. Boondi Raita 6. Carrot Halwa 7. Gujia 8. Gulab Jamun 9. Gulkand Peda 10. Imarti 11. Jalebi 12. Kachori/ Khasta 13. Kaddu Ki Kheer 14. Kanji Ke Vade 15. Kurmura Ladoo 16. Kulfi 17. Mango Burfi 18. Moong Dal Halwa 19. Motichoor Ladoo 20. Papri 21. Phirni 22. Rabdi 23. Phirni 24. Rabdi 25. Phirni 26. Rabdi 27. Zafrani Kheer 2.12.2 Breads: 1. Green Peas Paratha 2. Kolcha 3. Kuttu Paratha 4. Lachcha Paratha 5. Methi Parathas 6. Naan
  • 51. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 40 2.12.3 Cuisines: 1. Biryani 2. Chicken Korma 3. Dahi Gosht 4. Fish Kebab 5. Galouti Kebab 6. Keema 7. Kathi Kebab 8. Kele Ki Sabzi 9. Khaja 10. Kofta Curry 11. Lamb kebab 12. Malai Kofta 13. Murgh Musallam 14. Mushroom Biryani 15. Mutton Kabab 16. Mutanjan 17. Nargisi Kofta 18. Navratan Korma 19. Navratan Pulao 20. Nawabi Curry 21. Nihari 22. Palak Paneer 23. Paneer Korma 24. Paneer Stuffed Tomatoes 25. Paneer Tikka 26. Peas Pulao 27. Samosa 28. Shahi Paneer 29. Shami Kabab 30. Tahari 31. Thandai 32. Til Papdi 33. Vegetable Biryani
  • 52. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 41 34. Vegetable Pulav 35. Yakhni Pulav 36. Zamin Doz Machhli 3.13 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AWADHI AND MUGHLAI CUISINE Awadhi cuisine has drawn a considerable amount of influence from Mughal cooking style and bears resemblance to those of Hyderabad and Kashmir. The cuisine consists of both vegetarian and meat dishes that employ the dum style of cooking over a slow fire that has become synonymous with Lucknow. Mughlai food is known for its richness and exotic use of spices, dried fruit, and nuts. The Mughals did everything in style and splendor. Since they ate very rich food they reduced the number of intake during the day. Mughlai dishes as they are called have lots of milk and cream with spices to make rich and spicy meal that is the reason why Mughlai recipes are rich in fat, carbohydrates and proteins. Awadhi food does not use over a hundred spices as some claim, but use a handful of uncommon spices. The slow-fire cooking lets the juices absorb into the solid parts. In addition to the major process of cooking food in Awadhi style, other important processes, such as marinating meats, contribute to the taste. This is especially the case with barbecued food that might be cooked in a clay oven of over an open fire. Fish, red meats, vegetables and cottage cheese may be marinated in curd and spices. This helps to soften the taste and texture of them as well as remove any undesired odors from the fleshy materials. They were often cooked on tawa, the flat iron griddle, as opposed to Mughlai influence and bear a testimony to the local influence and convenience. Difference between Awadhi and Mughlai kebabs is that, while the former is usually cooked on the tawa, the latter is grilled in a tandoor. This gives the difference in flavor.
  • 53. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 42 CHAPTER 4: CASE STUDY: CHADNI CHOWK, CULTURAL STREET OF OLD DELHI
  • 54. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 43 Figure 25: Master Plan Representing Chandni Chowk Road, Delhi Source: Delhi Development Authority 4.1 BACKGROUND DESCRIPTION: Chandni Chowk is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, India. Chandni Chowk is located close to Old Delhi Railway Station and the monument Red Fort is located within the Chandni Chowk. Chandni Chowk Street is the straight street between Red Fort and Fateh Puri Mosque. Built in the 17th century by Mughal Emperor of India Shah Jahan, and designed by his daughter Jahan Ara, the market was once divided by canals (now closed) to reflect moonlight and it remains one of India's largest wholesale markets.28 Densely populated, overcrowded business street has now become a visitors spot that represent Old Delhi‘s Culture. Now a days street is facing problem of Street congestion, parking spaces, traffic jam, overcrowding etc. Government of Delhi came up to solve this problem and announced a projecked named ―Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk‖ 28 "Delhi - 100 years as the Capital". The Hindu. 1 February 2011
  • 55. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 44 4.2 Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk Project:29 Project aim This project aims at taking remedial measure to decongest the current mixed traffic congestion and other related issues in a way that the solutions are both economically feasible as well as technologically viable terms of power consumption, environment friendly, etc. Background The project Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk is divided in following two phases: Phase I: Undergrounding of Electric Wires The first phase covers shifting of electric wires on main road of Chandni Chowk. The executing agency for shifting of electric wires is the BSES Yamuna Power Limited along with the implementing agency (MCD/PWD). Phase II: Chandni Chowk Renewal The phase II aims at taking remedial measure to decongest the current mixed traffic congestion and other related issues in a way that the solutions are both economically feasible as well as technologically viable terms of power consumption, environment friendly, etc. It includes; Street Improvement of Chandni Chowk, Creating Pedestrian Friendly environment with distinctive character of Chandni Chowk, Integrated Plan for all the services ,Creating Heritage environment etc. It includes the stretch of Chandni Chowk from “Lal Jain Mandir to Fatehpuri Masjid.” Vision of the Area  The proposed project should be a catalyst for future conservation and revitalization of Shahjahanabad.  Generate a physical and visual continuity in the streetscape, which will augment the imageability of the streets.  The main intension is to reinforce safe and free pedestrian movement, by giving significance to pedestrians over vehicles. 29 www.delhi.gov.in, retrieve on 12 Dec 2015.
  • 56. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 45  The multifunction of Chandni Chowk as a market street, a gathering place for the public and a ceremonial axis for festive are considered and retained.  To bring landscape back trees will be planted along two sides of road. Agencies involved with SRDC North Delhi Municipal Corporation (NDMC), BSES Yamuna Power Ltd, Delhi Jal Board (DJB), Delhi Fire Service (DFS), Mahanagar Telecommunication Ltd (MTNL), Indrasprastha Gas Ltd (IGL) etc and other stakeholders Consultant M/s. Abhimanyu Dalal Architects (ADA) was appointed for Redevelopment of Chandni Chowk Road form Lal Quila to Fatehpuri Masjid by CSIR to prepare Detail Project Report (DPR) with inputs form MCD, DJB, BSES Yamuna Power Ltd, CRRI, NBRI etc. for giving consultancy on Architectural and urban design; electrical and lighting; sanitary; graphic designer for signage works and including all findings, drawings and details in the DPR.
  • 57. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 46 4.3 SITE STUDY BY AR. ABHIMANU DALAL: 4.3.1 Socio Economic status of the street: The street consists of several types of retail and wholesale market. People not only from the Delhi but from the whole country usually come here for marketing. These people include all economic groups but mainly Middle class. As the products over here are comparatively at low rates. Permanent shops of Cloth, Shoes, Phone Accessories, Wallet, Handkerchief, Food, Cobbler, Jewellery, Photo Album, Cards, Coin Exchange etc are present here. 4.3.2 There are different types of hawkers on the street: 1. Semi-Permanent Hawkers, 2. Hawkers on Thela, 3. On footpath Hawker, 4. Semi Mobile Hawker, and 5. Mobile Hawkers. 4.3.3 Majority of these hawkers are Food Hawkers: 1. Chai Wala, 2. Tikki Wala, 3. Chole Kolche Wala, 4. Bread Omelette Wala, 5. Fruit Wala, 6. Mithai Wala, 7. Kulfi Wala, 8. Nimbu Pani Wala, 9. Pakora Wala, and 10. Churan Wala etc Figure 26: Activity Pattern at Chandni Chowk Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal 1 2 3 4 5
  • 58. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 47 Figure 27: Activity pattern at Red Fort Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal Figure 28: List of Activities on Chandni Chowk Street; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal Figure 29: Activities pattern at Fountain Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal 1 2
  • 59. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 48 Figure 30: Activities between Gurudwara and Town Hall; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal Figure 32: Activities at Town Hall Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal Figure 31: Activities pattern at Fatehpuri Masjid Chowk; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal 4 5 3 Existing and spill over shops cause major chaos in pedestrian movement
  • 60. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 49 4.4 Issues at Chandni Chowk: 1. Inadequate Parking facilities 2. Movement 3. Pedestrian congestion, 4. Parking spaces, 5. Traffic jam, 6. Physical Infrastructure: Electrical supply wire etc. 4.5. SOLUTIONS BY AR. ABHIMANYU DALAL: 4.5.1 One way traffic –out of Chandi Chowk- From red fort, restricted entry from North to Chandni Chowk. 4.5.2 Two way movement by NMV- One lane shared with MV out from Red Fort and dedicated lane for traffic coming in from Red Fort. 5.3 Two way Tram system along Chandni Chowk- Both ways and possibilities of linking it to a larger level connecting Old Delhi and New Delhi railway stations. 5.4 Redirecting Circulation and Parking Proposals: Re-designing Motorised vehicle circulation and proposing Parking facility for the same at Chandni Chowk. Figure 33: Proposed MV Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
  • 61. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 50 Figure 35: Proposed NMV Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal Figure 36: Proposed Tram Movement; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal Figure 34: Proposed Parking and Motorized vehicle Circulation; ; Source: UTTIPEC Presentation by Ar. Abhimanyu Dalal
  • 62. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 51 CHAPTER 5: SITE STUDY-CHOWK
  • 63. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 52 5.1 BACKGROUND DESCRIPTION: Chock is among the oldest continuous inhabited areas of Lucknow. Significant settlement and commercial activity date back to around the late 16th or early 17th century, when Jaunpur under its Sharqui rulers, rather than either Faizabad or Lucknow, was Awadh‘s major urban centre. But Chowk really came into its own as the hub of a very dense web of fine artisanal work and intense commercial dealings towards the end of the 18th century when Lucknow became the capital of Awadh. The main spine of the Chowk has two gates at its both ends namely Gol Darawaza and Akbari Darwaza. It was the place which had the presence of the courtesans, aristocrats, nobles, jagidar, taluqadars, wasiqadars, mahajans and highly placed officers of the Nawabi administration and was supposedly connoisseurs of art and crafts. The courtesans were accomplished in dance and music. The Chowk became known to British as red light area. They were packed away in the early ‗50s under Government orders. 5.2 SITE LOCATION: Lucknow is divided into two sectors western and eastern sector. Chowk lies in the old city part in the western sector, south of River Gomti. The major roads that define the extent of the Figure 37: Location of Chow in Lucknow City. Source:www.googlemaps.com Figure 38: Chowk Foundry, Lucknow. Source:www.googlemaps.com
  • 64. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 53 area are Victoria Street, Kamla Nehru Marg and NH-25. The major commercial spine is the street that originates from Gol Darwaza at Chowk chauraha and terminates at Akbari Darwaza. 5.3 DEMOGRAPHY: Chowk comes under District I of Lucknow which includes Hardoi Road, Cambell Road and Dubagga etc. and the population of the District is 287335. Chowk comes under Zones 6 and zone wise population and employment of Chowk ward in 2001 was 13432 and 3695 respectively. However, before first war of Independence the population of Chowk was 5096 approx. and numbers of households were 637 and in 1971, the population of chowk was 23,343 and density of 667/Hec. 5.3.1 Density: Chowk remains the most densely populated area with exiting density of 600 ppH. There are six zones of Lucknow, and Chowk comes under zone six which is the Western zone and it comes under ward 105. 5.4 STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE OF CHOWK: 5.4.1 Cultural significance Chowk has played a vital role in the development of the Lucknow culture.It is one of the oldest markets in Lucknow with narrow streets which signify the historical and cultural heritage of the city. These streets envisage small commercial establishments. The market had gold and silver smiths, dealers of precious stones and engravers, ivory craftsmen, cloth merchants who deals in chikan, zardozi, kaarchob, kamkhaab and silk. 5.4.2 Religious buildings There are number of religious building in Chowk. The ram Mandir, the Bisati Masjid, Saudagar imambara, Tehsin Masjid, Mohammadian Masjid are situated together with number of Madarssa and situated together with
  • 65. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 54 number of Madrass and the spacious Darul-Shifa (old city hospital). Chowk still remains come of its old Nawabi glamour and harmony blended with modern type of business and culture. 5.5 Cuisine of Chowk: Based on the number of visitors , existence of shop, variety of food and self observation; shops are selected and marked. Most of these shops are older than 50 years. They lie in the vicinity of chowk and have a large amount of footfall say 600-800 approx per shop per day. They might not have a proper working( cooking) space or adequate service space but they are attracting people of chowk and community who know about them with there taste. These shops represent cuisines the one of the most core part of Avadhi culture; Avadhi food. The major preparation of food items are done at some another place and only final touch to food is done at the shops. 5.5.1 Idris ki Biryani: Located near Tulsidas Marg. A person may find the best Biryani of Lucknow at this place. It has been popular among several food channels. Many critics have tasted his Biryani and came to the decision of being best in Lucknow Key Issues:  Unhygienic environment  Unavailability of required cooking and sitting space  Parking in front of shop on road  Improper infrastructure Parking on road Figure 39: Plan of Idris ki Shop. Figure 40: Image showing parking on road and shop Shop
  • 66. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 55 F5.5.2 Raheems: Raheems Nehari shop is situated on Hakim Abdul Aziz road. Qued with other food shops. It cam into existence as copy of Original Rahim shop on Phool wali gali.Cooking is not an issue here as cooked food come from Mehmood Nagar. The other food such as Roasted chicken Roti and ready to searve preparation is done at this shop. Shop is comparatively well furnished with new furniture, but the area is only 19 meter square for sitting. Major Issue: Parking 5.5.3 Mubeens: It is on the mid of Akbarigate ki Dhal on Abdul Aziz Road. It has 5-6 waiters at a time to serve customer at dining space. The management and Cash table is under the hand of young generation. Management is working hard to make their customer satisfy. The menu consist: Kulcha, Nehari, Paya, Mutton Nehari, Mutton Stoo, Mutton Biryani, Chicken Korma, Chicken Biryani, Chicken Roasted, Beef Pasinda, Roti and Kheer. The Shop is divided into 2 floors. Lower or ground floor is used for cooking, general sitting, cash and washing area with 40 seating at a time. Whereas the first floor is reserved for family dining with 30 seating. Key Issues:  Parking in front of shop  Unavailability of required cooking space Figure 42: Image showing interior of Mubeens Figure 41: ground floor Plan of Mubeens Shop
  • 67. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 56 5.5.4 Azhar bhai ki Pan ki Dukan: This the most famous shop of Beetle in the area. They are always invited in the Lucknow Mahotsav to represent Lucknow‘s Culture. They have a very wide variety of Beetle. From normal Tobacco to Special Non Tobacco type stuffed with fruits and sweets. This shop is of only 4 meter square area, 2 people Azhar bhai and his younger brother run this shop. Figure 43: Parking in front of Mueens Figure 45: Image Showing Azhar bhai ki Beetle Shop Figure 44: Beetle shop of Izhar Bhai
  • 68. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 57 5.5.5 Mohammad Raees Bread shop: This shop serves only Bread of mainly 2 types, Khammeri (Naan) Rori and Sheermal. Rate of shop is quite as low as 2 rupees only. This shop attracts people from lower income group. This small shop contains Tandoors for making bread and cash counter only. It has all open preparation area. The area of shop is not maintained in terms of construction repair and aesthetics. The Architectural and visual significance lack at the shop but social significance is very high. Figure 47: Old shop of Mohd Raees view from Akbari gate road. Figure 48: Bread shop view from alternate lane Figure 46: Plan of Raees Bread Shop
  • 69. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 58 5.5.6 Shahid Chicken Biryani Shahid chicken Biryani shop is a new shop but stablished by the person named Shahid who was making and serving biryani as a street vendor since his childhood, the recipe is forwarded to him from his father. This 2 floor shop does not only serve Biryani now a day, they also serve Pasanda- Sheermal and Nehari Kolcha. The lower floor is used for serving general public and upper floor is reserved for family dinning. Key Issues:  Parking in front of shop.  Unavailability of required cooking space as it is done on road under encroachment. 5.6.7 New Mubeen Hotel: New Mubeen Hotel also called Mubeen Samira Hotel serves same Dishes as Mubeen Hotel. People who don‘t get space at Mubeen they went to this New Mubeen Hotel. The preparation of major food items is done at Bawarchi Khana. Final touch to food is given at serving at the restaurant. Figure 49: Shahid Chicken Biryani Restaurent Figure 50: Plan of New Mubeen Restaurant
  • 70. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 59 This is a restaurant with architectural and visual significance in its interior. It is divided into 60 seating at basement and 45 seating at upper ground floor. Seating arrangement is aesthetically pleasing compare to other restaurant and shops. Façade is aesthetically unpleasant and visually unhygienic. The Shop is extended approx. 20 feet on road and food is prepared on that area. Figure 51: Front view of New Mubeen Hotel Figure 52: Entrance of New Mubeen
  • 71. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 60 Major Issues:  Requirement of Façade treatment  Parking  Encroachment by the shop. 5.5.8 Jaan Sheermal Corner: This is one of the shop or bakery where bread is prepared. But this particular shop being on the main square and also due to Roll serve with Kabab, came as most popular shop for Sheermal(Bread). A small seating Figure 53: Interior of New Mubeens, 1 Figure 54: Interior of New Mubeens ,2
  • 72. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 61 area is also available to serve approx. 10-12 people at a time. Shop is small but it fulfils the requirement or preparation and sale of bread, open preparation of bread can be seen here. Buy and leave (Type of drivein) service is applied. Major Issues:  Requirement of Façade treatment  Parking 5.5.9 Tundey Kababi: 151, Phool Wali Gali, chowk is the original shop or Tundey kababi, where the invention of this Kabab was done. This shop still serves kabab and Paratha. Number of visitors at this shop is around 800-900 per day; those Figure 56:Jann Sheermal Corner and bike parking in front of shop. Figure 55: Plan of Jaan Sheermal Corner
  • 73. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 62 who need pack food and people who dine at the place. This old shop has counter, cooking and servicing point in the front, and dinng area at the back, with seating of about 64 person at a time. Major Issues:  Requirement of Façade treatment  Parking  Anaesthetic appearance 5.5.10 Rahims: Rahims restaurant is one of the oldest food spot in Chowk established in 1890. The shop is divided into lower ground floor and upper ground floor. Lower ground floor consist of cleaning, cash counter, serving and dining areas, where as upper ground floor is dedicated to preparation of food and Figure 58: Plan of Tundey Kababi Figure 59: Tundey Kabaki shop from ourside Source:www.finechopped.net Figure 57: Tunday kababi Shop
  • 74. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 63 bread. Entrance of the shop does not seems good, thus façade treatment is required, with proper preparation areas need to be made. The lower floor seems to be hygienic, with proper service and a proper seating space. Figure 60: Plans of Rahim Hotel Figure 61: Exterior of Rahim hotel Figure 64: Cash counter of Rahims Figure 62: Logo of Rahims Figure 63: Seating area in Rahims
  • 75. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 64 5.5.11 Radhey Lal Parampara Sweet: Earlier known as Misthan Bhandar, established since 1926 is a sweets shop. The shop lies in the structure of the Gol Darwaza gate of Phool wali gali. This ground floor shop has a good interior. The small area of shop is only used for sale and packaging of sweets. Preparation of sweet is dona at Dubagga. Major Issues:  Parking in front of Shop  Hawkers in front of shop restricting shop view 5.5.12 Makhan Malai: Hawkers of Makhan Malai sit in front of Gol Darwaza. There are around 5- 6 Makhan Malai Hawkers selling Makhan-Malai, Rabdi, Gajak etc. Figure 65: Position of shop with Gol Darwaza (Gate) Figure 66: Front view of Radhey Lal Parampara Sweets Figure 67: Interior of Radhehy Lal Sweets Figure 68: Sweet pakaging at Radheyy Lal Sweets
  • 76. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 65 Major Issues:  Inappropriate sitting space  Parking near hawkers  Road congestion 5.5.13 Shree Lassi Corner: Shree Lassi corner is an old shop on unknown existence at Kamla Nehru Marg. This famous shop offers several types of Lassi , milk badam, kulfi, chola bhatura, Chola Rice, Gulab Jamun, Paneer, Curd, Rabdi and Milk Cake. Figure 69: Image of Makhan malai hawker at Gol Darwaza Figure 70: Shree Lassi Corner on Kamla Nehru Marg
  • 77. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 66 The shop is on ground floor. Some table and chairs are placed under the building portico for sitting in front of shop. Parking is usually done in front of shop on road. Major Issues:  Parking in front of Shop  Improper sitting space Figure 71: Shree Lassi Corner Source:www.bcmtouring.com Figure 72: Conceptual Plan of Shree Lassi Corner
  • 78. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 67 Map showing location of important food spots at Chowk, Lucknow
  • 79. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 68 CHAPTER 6: ISSUES AND STATEGIES
  • 80. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 69 After the data analysis of work, many issues were figured out of the street. Finding from the study help in reviving of the street/ food in order to standardise it with respect to space, movement and basic design strategies. After the analysis of data several issues were revealed in the Chowk area. 6.1 Loss of Built Heritage: One of the major issues of the street is the excessive, uncontrolled, unchecked commercialization of the spine. The street was not design to cater such a large amount of commercial activity. The observation supported the fact that this excessive commercialization was actually eating up old and traditional building. The land use pattern is converted into mixed-use rather than residential or commercial , Old traditional building are being replaced by concrete structures with proposed commercial activity on the ground and residential on upper floors. The historic buildings which are yet not converted are in bad condition and needed to be saved in order save its culture. By making local building bylaws and building standards and enforcing them on through some conservation bodies such as INTACH etc. will solve the issue. 6.2 Degraded street façade: The excess display of advertisement as a part of commercialization of the shop etc., improper check on repair and maintenance, encroachment on the street etc. are degrading the façade and present pathetic, unhygienic view. Improving this will give visitors an attractive and charming cultural experience of Awadh. Bylaws for advertisement and by educating local people for the same will bring awareness in the local people, as done in Hazratganj area, will solve the issue. 6.3 Encroachment on Street: Most of the shops are extended on road, and part or preparation seating or parking is done. This method reduces the catering width of street and causes congestion and traffic jam. Implementing local bylaws, and making people aware and sensitive for their approach will solve the problem.
  • 81. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 70 6.4 Congestion: The excessive use, encroachment and parking have led to traffic ingress into the area. Majorly happened at the peak hour, festive season, and Sunday (weekly market day). The width of Phool wali Gali Street also varies front to point due to its organic nature. Loading / unloading of heavy vehicle make impossible for pedestrian to walk on it. One way movement on Abdul Aziz road and vehicular restriction on Phool wali gali might solve the problems. 6.5 Parking: The major issue, not only at the food joints but for the whole area. No proper parking space is available. The requirement is rising day by day as no of registration of vehicle is increasing in Lucknow. Under Lucknow 15 Lakh Vehicles are registered till present day (according to Lucknow transport division). Underground and multilevel parking facility at various points on Tulsidas Marg might solve the problems. 6.6 Lack of physical infrastructure: Another problem of street (mainly phool wali gali) is insufficient infrastructure facilities. The condition of the street, dirty drain and solid waste management need urgent attention. Sewage is being dumped into drain creating in appropriate environmental conditions. Lack of physical infrastructure such as Sewerage, Water supply, underground electrical wiring etc... Implementation of Infrastructure Management plant is necessity of the area. 6.7 Multiple Owner-ship: Successive fragmentation of property and the multiple ownership has led to degradation of buildings, as it restricts the overall growth of the place. Food spots are also on the rent base, thus they are unable to implement development or up gradation. With the initiation of government, application of local laws, and development strategy, multi ownership problem will no longer be a hindrance for development.
  • 82. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 71 6.8 Advertisement: The food spots are either known by resident of Chowk or local people of the city, or food hunters. Only some the shops are famous enough to represent Awadh culture. Need of signage, advertisement for these spots are required through several means of presentation. Lucknow Bhraman (Lucknow tourism circuit) must include these spots and must advertise them with other cultural or tourism related advertisement. Scope of another type of tourism (food tourism) exists within these spots. 6.9 Absence of Multi typology food experience: Awadhi food is not restricted to only non-vegetarian food, Vegetarian and non-vegetarian food is equally important in Awadhi food culture. Majority of spots represent non-vegetarian food and do not have any kind of food that attracts vegetarian customers. By adding vegetarian Awadhi cuisine will not only increase the footfall of local but also tourist.
  • 83. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 72 CHAPTER 7: CONCLUSION
  • 84. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 73 7. CONCLUSION Lucknow being the hub of culture fails in representing its cuisine with a world class level. This is the result of drawbacks of some basic issues and can be solved. The issues that holds back the exploration of cuisine of Lucknow to the whole world involves –improper road network, congestion, un-aesthetical appearance, hygiene, lack of required space, lack of identity of eateries, and most important its advertisement in the tourism sector and packages. It has been observed that the major type of food that are famous majorly includes non-vegetarian cuisines, whereas, history proves the equal importance of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisines in the Nawabi culture (Awadh region). Addition of vegetarian food in the food menu of eateries will not only increase the footfall but also conserve the cultural heritage (food) There are several food spots in the city, especially in old Lucknow, which needed to be listed and appreciated by the Department of Tourism. That can be added in the tourist circuit, through PPP mode, resulting in the growth of another tourism (food tourism) in the city and overall growth of the people preserving this heritage. The issues of area requirement can be solved through providing/ proposing a food hub specially for tourist with in the heritage vicinity, Such as- Ground of Raf-e-Aam Club, Kaisarbagh, Lucknow Providing One way traffic, signage representing important cuisine spots, re-routing of traffic, overall façade treatment of Chowk area, infrastructure improvement, providing local bylaws etc., can solve the other small but important issues of the place ; provides a better view to the tourists.
  • 85. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 74 REFERENCES 1. Llewellyn Rosie-―Lucknow -Then and Now‖, Ch-Lucknow food street and bazaars. 2. Veena Talwar Oldenburg,(1984). The Making of Colonial Lucknow, 1856– 1877. Princeton University Press. ISBN 978-0-691-06590-8 3. Abbas SA, ―Increadible Lucknow- A Visitors Guide‖, 4. http;//Lucknow.me/Shaam-e-Awadh.html. 5. http://www.scribd.com/doc/2030831/Awadhi-Cuisine 6. http://indiandiplomacy.in/meadocument/11200901.pdf, India Perspective 7. http://www.scribd.com/doc/1291129/Lucknow-Cuisine 8. Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University Press, Delhi. Gastronomy, 28, 155-159 9. http://www.awadhicuisine/ProjectGutenberg/Self- PublishingeBooks/ReadBooksonline.htm 10. http://www.scribd.com/doc/12914129/Lucknow-Cuisine 11. http://blogs.hindustantimes.com/rude-food/2009/04/05/lucknow-diary 12. http://shantanughosh.com/2007/0/of-nawabs-and-kababs.html. 13. Dissertation on ―Reviving the cousins of Lucknow‖ by Asma Hsmeed, JMI 14. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Awadhi_cuisine 15. http://NDTVFood.htm; access on 26th Oct 2015 16. http://khanapakana.com/lucknowrecipe; accessed on 26th Oct 2015 17. World Heritage Encyclopedia™ licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0; accessed on 27th oct 2015 18. "Delhi - 100 years as the Capital". The Hindu. 1 February 2011 19. www.delhi.gov.in, retrieve on 12 Dec 2015.
  • 86. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 75 BIBLIOGRAPHY: 1. Books i. Abdul Halim Sharar (1999), Lucknow The Last Phase of an Oriental Culture, Oxford University Press, Delhi. ii. Roise Llewellya Jones-―Lucknow, Then and Now‖, Oxford University Press, Delhi. iii. Amir Hasan, ―Palace Culture of Lucknow‖ iv. Sobia Ahsan, (2012-13), Thesis report on ―Revitalization of Chowk, Lucknow‖, JMI. v. Asma Hameed, (2012-13)Dissertation on ―Reviving the cousins of Lucknow‖ JMI 2 Website: I. https://lucknow.me II. https://www.scribe.com III. https://indiandiplomacy.in IV. https://blogs.hindustantimes.com V. https://wikimapia.org VI. https://googlemaps.com VII. https://NDTVFood.html VIII. https://khanapakana.com IX. https://the hindu.com X. https://delhi.gov.in XI. https://www.lko.nic.in XII. https://www.flicker.com XIII. http://www.mapofindia.com
  • 87. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 76 XIV. http://www.trodly.org XV. http://www.lucknowbookclub.com XVI. http://www.tripoto.com XVII. http://pinterest.com XVIII. Nishienterprises.com XIX. http://heritagescoachin.com XX. http://www.team.bhp.com XXI. http://www.omanisilver.com XXII. http://www.lucknowchkan.com XXIII. http://www.dnaindia.com
  • 88. REVIVING THE FOOD STREET OF LUCKNOW 2015-16 77