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TIME TO SHINE…….
• DIAMOND COMES FROM GREEK WORD
“ADAMAO “ : “ I tame “ or “ I subdue “.
• Adjective “ ADAMUS “ was used to describe
the hardest substance known, and eventually
became synonymous with DIAMOND.
• TEMPERATURE RANGE OF 1652F TO 2372F
• PRESSURE OF 45 KILOBARS TO 60 KILOBARS
• A kilobar is a unit that the scientists use to measure
extremely high pressure.
• The normal everyday pressure on earth at sea level is
about one bar and a kilobar is 1000 times that.
EARTHS UPPER MANTLE BETWEEN 90 MILES
AND 120 MILES.
The best temperature and pressure conditions for
diamond formation exist under large, geologically
stable parts of the crust called cratons. Cratons
are the oldest sections of the landmasses. They
make up the interior portions of the continents,
where they’ve have existed without change for
millions of years.
Diamond deposits are found in 2 types
of rock: Kimberlite and Lamproite.
The process whether the material
contains diamonds or not, is called
emplacement.
The 1st diamond bearing emplacement
probably occurred more than 2.5
billion years ago, and the most recent
was probably around 20 million years
ago.
Kimberlites are wide spread – in the 1990s, there were about 6,000 of them
known worldwide. But fewer than 1,000 of them contained any diamonds.
Of course, only about 50 had enough diamonds to be economic to mine,
and only about 20 are still being mined today. With statistics like that, it’s no
wonder diamonds are considered rare and precious!
The 2 types of rocks in which diamonds form are:
Pe-RID-o-tite and EC-lo-gite. Each one exists under
precise temperature and pressure conditions at the
specific depths within the earth. Each one also
provides its own supply of carbon and releases it
under different conditions. There’s evidence that
each one produces diamonds with characteristic-
and different- crystal forms and inclusions.
• THE FOUR C’S:
• Diamond professionals use 4 imp factors to describe and classify diamonds:
• Color
• Clarity
• Cut
• Carat Weight.
• These are known as 4C’s. When use together, they describe the quality of a
finished diamond. They are often called value factors. The value of a
finished diamond is based on these 4 qualities. The value of a diamond is
often affected by the rarity of one or more of the 4 C’s too.
• Today, these standards are more precise than those applied to almost any other
consumer product.
• Three of them- color, clarity and carat weight- were the basis for the first diamond
grading system established in India over 2000 years ago.
• Modern cutting brings out the best in a diamond. Today cut is an important factor in a
diamond’s value.
Let’s have a overview of each 4 C’s individually:
COLOR
COLOR
The GIA color scale begins with D (
colorless) and continues through the
alphabet Z ( light yellow). A
diamond’s color grade is based on
the tone and saturation of its color,
or its absence of color. Each letter on
the scale represents a narrow color
range, not a specific point. And each
masterstone marks the highest
point- or the least amount of color-
in that range. A diamond with
slightly less color than the H
masterstone is considered G color,
one with slightly less color than the
G masterstone is considered F- color,
and so on.
In 1950s, GIA established a color grading system for the diamonds. Because many of the color
grading systems that came before it used vaguely defined trade terms, GIA wanted its system to
clarify the color grade categories. To provide a basis for the color comparison, GIA assembled a
set of masterstones. It took years to find diamonds that represented all the letters in the GIA color
grading system.
The D-E-F grades are considered colorless. Diamonds in these color range are
extremely rare and valuable.
The G-H-I-J grades are near colorless. Diamonds with these grades look
colorless face up and nearly colorless face down. These diamonds are
popular because they combine fairly high color with somewhat lower prices.
The K-L-M grades are faint yellow. Diamonds in this range show very faint
yellow color face up and face down.
N through R diamonds is considered very light yellow. They appear very
light yellow face up and face down, even when they are mounted in
jewelry.
S through Z diamonds are light yellow. They show substantial color face up
of face down, loose or mounted. Once the diamond goes beyond the Z
color range, its classified as fancy light yellow which causes its price to rise.
Fancy colored diamonds are rare than
diamonds in the normal color range. Some
experts estimate that only 2% of total rough
diamond production is fancy colored. The
percentage is even lower for polished
diamonds. Only one out of 10,000 cts of
fashioned diamonds display fancy color, and
a diamonds chances of displaying intense
color are even lower- one in 25,000.
FANCY COLOR
FANCY COLOR DIAMONDS
The main difference is that the highest value is based on the presence of the color, while in D to Z scale, the highest
value is based on the absence of color.
The color appearance of a diamond comes from the combined effect of hue, tone and saturation. GIA uses specific
grades to identify the ranges of color appearance. They are:
Faint
Very Light
Light
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy Intense
Fancy dark
Fancy deep
Fancy Vivid
The colors in the natural colored diamond are due to its structural defects also known as
color centers.
Nitrogen is the most common impurity element in diamond. It’s also the most common cause
of the yellow color.
Boron causes shades of blue.
The color in pink diamonds is due to graining in the diamond crystal.
Distortion of the crystal lattice might produce red color in diamonds.
Pure orange diamonds are so rare that scientists aren’t exactly sure what causes their
extraordinary color. But it’s most likely the result of a combination of chemical impurities and
structural distortion.
Most people know that few things are as special as a truly flawless
diamond, but they might not know exactly why that is. The key is rarity:
diamonds form inside the earth under tremendous temperature and
pressure. Given those conditions, some irregularities are almost
inevitable.
Almost all beautiful diamonds have clarity characteristics: Internal and
externals features. Most clarity characteristics become part of the
diamond when it formed, other come later like scratches on surface.
Clarity Characteristic do more than indicate the rarity and determine the
value of a diamond. They make every diamond unique, too. It’s unlikely
that 2 people have identical fingerprints, or that 2 snowflakes are exactly
alike. It’s just unlikely that 2 diamonds will have the same clarity
characteristics in identical location.
CLARITY
• Since its introduction in 1953, GIA diamond grading system
has given diamond professionals a way to evaluate a
diamond and communicate its quality to others. A dealer in
NY, for example can describe a diamond according to the
system and know that a retailer in Florida will understand
the levels of inclusions and blemishes in the stone. The
system has grown beyond the borders of the US to become
the internationally accepted standard for grading diamonds.
• The clarity scale has 11
grades:
• Flawless (FL )
• Internally Flawless (IF)
• Very Very Slightly Included
( VVS1 and VVS2)
• Very Slightly Included (VS1
and VS2)
• Slightly Included (SI1 and
SI2)
• Included (I1, I2 and I3)
Flawless: (FL)
A flawless diamond shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort under
10X magnification when observed by a experienced grader.
Internally Flawless: (IF)
An internally flawless diamond has no inclusions when examined by an
experienced grader using 10X magnification. It will however have some
minor blemishes such as surface grain lines, naturals and extra facets.
VERY VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED: (VVS1 AND VVS2)
VVS diamonds contain minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10X
magnification.
VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (
VS1 AND VS2)
VS diamonds contain minor
inclusions observed with
effort under 10X
magnification. In either
case they are described as
small or minor
SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (SI1 AND SI2)
SI diamonds contain inclusions that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification.
Typically these are clouds, included crystals, knots, cavities and feathers.
INCLUDED (I1, I2 AND I3)
Diamonds that fall in the I range contain inclusions that are obvious under 10X magnification. They might
contain large feather or large included crystals. In some cases the inclusions affect transpency and brilliance.
CUT
What do you think of when you hear the term “cut” in relation to a polished
diamond? Some people think shape. Others immediately think of different styles
(brilliant cut, step cut). Still others who usually have a little gemological knowledge
think of the diamonds proportion ( the dimensions, angle and the relationship of its
part) and the finish ( the quality of the polish and precision of the cut) While shapes
and styles are important – don’t underestimate the importance of proportions.
A diamond’s optical quality are the combination of 3 things:
Brilliance – the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and
the inside of the stone – it gives a polished diamond its brightness.
Dispersion – the separation of white light into spectral hues – the rainbow colors
you see when the light passes through the prism.
Scintillation – the flashes of light when the diamond, the light or the observer
moves.
The elements of diamond
proportions are:
• Table size
• Crown angle
• Pavilion angle
• Girdle thickness
• Total depth percentage
• Symmetry
• Girdle outline(fancy
shapes only)
• Culet size
• Length to width ratio (
fancy shapes only)
THE CUTTING PROCESS
Whenever one of the Four C’s of diamond value increases or decreases, the other value
factor can also be affected.
For example, to maintain or increase the carat weight of the finished gem, the cutter
might compromise on cut proportions. The manufacturer must consider the effect that
each choice has on the finished diamond as a whole.
To maximize profits, manufacturers try to end up with the best cut and the most carat
weight possible at the lowest production cost. With so much at stake, a diamond
manufacturer’s job demands tough decisions.
For commercial- quality gems, many diamond cutting stages are now automated. But
most top quality diamond rough is still fashioned by hand. That’s because it requires
special expertise to achieve the highest value from a finished gem. But whether the
process is mechanized or manual, diamond cutting involves the same basic steps it did
hundreds of years ago.
STEPS
• Planning
• Cleaving or Sawing
• Bruting
• Polishing
Planning:
Cleaving and Sawing:
Bruting:
Polishing:
CARAT WEIGHT
Accurate weights and measures are two of the diamond industry’s most important requirements. They’re
computed and discussed in every corner of the industry. Diamonds are priced and sold by carat weight.
Wholesalers sort stones by size and weight. Appraisers use dimensions to estimate the weight of mounted
diamonds.
Understanding the relationship between the weights and dimensions of loose stones is also helpful when you’re
separating diamonds from stimulants. You’ll usually find that a stimulant is much heavier than a diamond of the
same size.
Some terms used in the industry are:
GRAINER – O.25 CT approx.
4 GRAINER – 0.95 CT TO 1.01 CT
LIGHT HALF – 0.45 CT TO 0.49 CT
LIGHT CARAT – 0.95 CT TO 0.99 CT
1/3 OF A CARAT – 0.30 CT TO 0.37 CT
1/4 OF A CARAT – 0.22 CT TO 0.28
FANCY CUT DIAMONDS
Diamond cuts have come a long way since the introduction of the first round brilliant. Today,
thanks to advances in cutting technologies and the unlimited imaginations of cutters,
diamonds can be cut in an incredible variety of ways.
Diamonds are the artwork of nature, polished by the imagination of man
DIAMOND TREATMENTS
Even though most people think of diamonds as colorless, colored diamonds are
more popular than ever. Promotion of pink and brown diamonds from Australia’s
Arglye mine has probably done more to increase public awareness of colored
diamonds than any other factor. Increased interest has led to new research into
the causes of natural diamond color.
While studying the causes of natural color, scientists began to understand how
some of those color causing conditions might be reproduced in the lab. Since then,
scientists have experimented with many ways to change or modify diamond color.
The value and the rarity of naturally colored diamonds have inspired many
struggles to create their colors in the lab.
THE TREATMENTS ARE:
• IRRADIATION
• ANNEALING
• HEAT AND PRESSSURE ( HPHT )
IRRADIATION
In the early 1900s, Sir William Crookes tried to duplicate nature’s process and manufacture green diamonds in the
laboratory. Crookes experiments marked early research into color treating diamonds by irradiation.
Today, penetration with high energy electrons in a linear accelerator is one of two frequently used irradiation
techniques. Depending on the material and treatment conditions, this process usually produces blue or blue -green
colors. The other technique involves bombardment with neutrons, usually in a nuclear reactor. Diamonds treated this
way usually become green, blue-green, or dark green.
ANNEALING
A controlled heating and cooling process called annealing, is another way to change diamond color. When it follows
irradiation in a two step process, annealing modifies irradiated colors to produce brown, orange or yellow. Rarely, it
can also produce shades of pink, red or purple.
Annealing is also sometimes used alone. The process changes diamond colors in a series- generally blue to green to
brown to yellow- and the treatment is stopped when the desired color is reached.
HIGH PRESSURE HIGH THERMAL ( HPHT )
In the late 1990s advances in diamond synthesis led to scientists to experiment with ways to modify diamond color
using the same techniques: combinations of high tempretue and high pressure.
The process improves the color of brownish Type diamonds, making them almost colorless.
The first commercial release of HPHT diamonds occurred in March 1999. The release was the result of a partnership
between GE and major diamond manufacturer Lazare Kaplan International (LKI). The companies declared that the
gems had been processed to improve color, brightness, and brilliance, and that the results were permanent and also
irreversible.
At first the stones were known as GE-POL, or “Pegasus” diamonds because they were marketed through Lazare
Kaplan’s subsidiary, Pegasus Overseas Limited ( POL). At present, they’re sold by LKI under the brand name
“Bellataire”.
GE and Lazare Kaplan cooperated with GIA and other leading gem labs to help identify defining characteristics for
the processed diamonds. They supplied samples of diamonds both before and after processing for the labs to
compare and analyze.
CLARITY TREATMENTS
LASER DRILLING
FRACTURE FILLING
The first fracture filling treatment for diamonds was introduced in the 1980s. Since then, many manufacturers
of filling materials have emerged. The exact composition of the fillers varies from manufacturer to
manufacturer, but they’re all based on the same idea: A molten glass substance is infused into a diamond’s
fractures.
DISCLOSING FRACTURE FILLING
Since its introduction, the industry has debated methods of disclosing fracture filling without alarming the customer. An
early solution was the term “clarity enhancement” which has a more positive sound than “fracture filling”. But the US
federal Trade Commission and others in the industry consider the words “clarity enhancement” misleading. It was soon
followed by the term “clarity treatment,” which was adopted by many industry professionals as the preferred – and
more correct-term.
TREATED DIAMONDS AND THE MARKET PLACE
In the last more than 10 years, diamond treatment have become much more of an issue in the jewelry trade. As modern
clarity and color treatment techniques make many diamonds more marketable, the need for positive, ethical disclosure
grows. Most gem professionals, in an effort to preserve their customers trust, have been much more careful about
detecting and disclosing treatments of all kinds.
. And that the disclosure is not only ethical, it’s good for business too.
The Global Diamond Industry 2016: The Enduring Allure of Timeless Gems
Annual report on the global diamond jewelry prepared by the
Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) and Bain & Company
• Midstream US dollar revenues tracked the retail sector’s performance in 2015, declining 2%
• Major rough-diamond producers in 2015 reacted to the challenging circumstances of their customers.
•
• The industry is rebounding in 2016.
• A new generation of consumers—the millennials—represents a compelling opportunity for the diamond industry. The
population of millennials in China, India and the US totaled roughly 900 million in 2015, and their combined gross income
amounted to approximately $8 trillion. Millennials appear to resemble other age groups in their preferences for diamond jewelry
but not in their shopping behaviors. To fully capture millennials’ demand over the longer term, industry players need to invest in
both category marketing and brand-building efforts and redefine the customer experience in the retail environment.
• The long-term outlook for the diamond market remains positive. For the next three years, the supply of rough diamonds is
expected to maintain a tight balance with demand. We expect demand for rough diamonds to recover from the recent downturn
and return to a long-term growth trajectory of about 2% to 5% per year on average, relying on strong fundamentals in the US and
the continued growth of the middle class in China and India. The supply of rough diamonds is expected to decline annually by 1%
to 2% in value terms through 2030.
Diamonds: Time to Shine
Diamonds: Time to Shine
Diamonds: Time to Shine
Diamonds: Time to Shine

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Diamonds: Time to Shine

  • 2. • DIAMOND COMES FROM GREEK WORD “ADAMAO “ : “ I tame “ or “ I subdue “. • Adjective “ ADAMUS “ was used to describe the hardest substance known, and eventually became synonymous with DIAMOND.
  • 3.
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • 6.
  • 7. • TEMPERATURE RANGE OF 1652F TO 2372F • PRESSURE OF 45 KILOBARS TO 60 KILOBARS • A kilobar is a unit that the scientists use to measure extremely high pressure. • The normal everyday pressure on earth at sea level is about one bar and a kilobar is 1000 times that.
  • 8. EARTHS UPPER MANTLE BETWEEN 90 MILES AND 120 MILES.
  • 9. The best temperature and pressure conditions for diamond formation exist under large, geologically stable parts of the crust called cratons. Cratons are the oldest sections of the landmasses. They make up the interior portions of the continents, where they’ve have existed without change for millions of years.
  • 10. Diamond deposits are found in 2 types of rock: Kimberlite and Lamproite. The process whether the material contains diamonds or not, is called emplacement. The 1st diamond bearing emplacement probably occurred more than 2.5 billion years ago, and the most recent was probably around 20 million years ago.
  • 11. Kimberlites are wide spread – in the 1990s, there were about 6,000 of them known worldwide. But fewer than 1,000 of them contained any diamonds. Of course, only about 50 had enough diamonds to be economic to mine, and only about 20 are still being mined today. With statistics like that, it’s no wonder diamonds are considered rare and precious!
  • 12. The 2 types of rocks in which diamonds form are: Pe-RID-o-tite and EC-lo-gite. Each one exists under precise temperature and pressure conditions at the specific depths within the earth. Each one also provides its own supply of carbon and releases it under different conditions. There’s evidence that each one produces diamonds with characteristic- and different- crystal forms and inclusions.
  • 13.
  • 14. • THE FOUR C’S: • Diamond professionals use 4 imp factors to describe and classify diamonds: • Color • Clarity • Cut • Carat Weight. • These are known as 4C’s. When use together, they describe the quality of a finished diamond. They are often called value factors. The value of a finished diamond is based on these 4 qualities. The value of a diamond is often affected by the rarity of one or more of the 4 C’s too.
  • 15. • Today, these standards are more precise than those applied to almost any other consumer product. • Three of them- color, clarity and carat weight- were the basis for the first diamond grading system established in India over 2000 years ago. • Modern cutting brings out the best in a diamond. Today cut is an important factor in a diamond’s value. Let’s have a overview of each 4 C’s individually:
  • 16. COLOR
  • 17. COLOR The GIA color scale begins with D ( colorless) and continues through the alphabet Z ( light yellow). A diamond’s color grade is based on the tone and saturation of its color, or its absence of color. Each letter on the scale represents a narrow color range, not a specific point. And each masterstone marks the highest point- or the least amount of color- in that range. A diamond with slightly less color than the H masterstone is considered G color, one with slightly less color than the G masterstone is considered F- color, and so on.
  • 18. In 1950s, GIA established a color grading system for the diamonds. Because many of the color grading systems that came before it used vaguely defined trade terms, GIA wanted its system to clarify the color grade categories. To provide a basis for the color comparison, GIA assembled a set of masterstones. It took years to find diamonds that represented all the letters in the GIA color grading system.
  • 19. The D-E-F grades are considered colorless. Diamonds in these color range are extremely rare and valuable. The G-H-I-J grades are near colorless. Diamonds with these grades look colorless face up and nearly colorless face down. These diamonds are popular because they combine fairly high color with somewhat lower prices. The K-L-M grades are faint yellow. Diamonds in this range show very faint yellow color face up and face down. N through R diamonds is considered very light yellow. They appear very light yellow face up and face down, even when they are mounted in jewelry. S through Z diamonds are light yellow. They show substantial color face up of face down, loose or mounted. Once the diamond goes beyond the Z color range, its classified as fancy light yellow which causes its price to rise.
  • 20. Fancy colored diamonds are rare than diamonds in the normal color range. Some experts estimate that only 2% of total rough diamond production is fancy colored. The percentage is even lower for polished diamonds. Only one out of 10,000 cts of fashioned diamonds display fancy color, and a diamonds chances of displaying intense color are even lower- one in 25,000. FANCY COLOR
  • 21. FANCY COLOR DIAMONDS The main difference is that the highest value is based on the presence of the color, while in D to Z scale, the highest value is based on the absence of color. The color appearance of a diamond comes from the combined effect of hue, tone and saturation. GIA uses specific grades to identify the ranges of color appearance. They are: Faint Very Light Light Fancy Light Fancy Fancy Intense Fancy dark Fancy deep Fancy Vivid
  • 22. The colors in the natural colored diamond are due to its structural defects also known as color centers. Nitrogen is the most common impurity element in diamond. It’s also the most common cause of the yellow color. Boron causes shades of blue. The color in pink diamonds is due to graining in the diamond crystal. Distortion of the crystal lattice might produce red color in diamonds. Pure orange diamonds are so rare that scientists aren’t exactly sure what causes their extraordinary color. But it’s most likely the result of a combination of chemical impurities and structural distortion.
  • 23. Most people know that few things are as special as a truly flawless diamond, but they might not know exactly why that is. The key is rarity: diamonds form inside the earth under tremendous temperature and pressure. Given those conditions, some irregularities are almost inevitable. Almost all beautiful diamonds have clarity characteristics: Internal and externals features. Most clarity characteristics become part of the diamond when it formed, other come later like scratches on surface. Clarity Characteristic do more than indicate the rarity and determine the value of a diamond. They make every diamond unique, too. It’s unlikely that 2 people have identical fingerprints, or that 2 snowflakes are exactly alike. It’s just unlikely that 2 diamonds will have the same clarity characteristics in identical location. CLARITY
  • 24. • Since its introduction in 1953, GIA diamond grading system has given diamond professionals a way to evaluate a diamond and communicate its quality to others. A dealer in NY, for example can describe a diamond according to the system and know that a retailer in Florida will understand the levels of inclusions and blemishes in the stone. The system has grown beyond the borders of the US to become the internationally accepted standard for grading diamonds.
  • 25. • The clarity scale has 11 grades: • Flawless (FL ) • Internally Flawless (IF) • Very Very Slightly Included ( VVS1 and VVS2) • Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) • Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) • Included (I1, I2 and I3)
  • 26. Flawless: (FL) A flawless diamond shows no inclusions or blemishes of any sort under 10X magnification when observed by a experienced grader. Internally Flawless: (IF) An internally flawless diamond has no inclusions when examined by an experienced grader using 10X magnification. It will however have some minor blemishes such as surface grain lines, naturals and extra facets.
  • 27. VERY VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED: (VVS1 AND VVS2) VVS diamonds contain minute inclusions that are difficult even for experienced graders to see under 10X magnification.
  • 28. VERY SLIGHTLY INCLUDED ( VS1 AND VS2) VS diamonds contain minor inclusions observed with effort under 10X magnification. In either case they are described as small or minor
  • 29. SLIGHTLY INCLUDED (SI1 AND SI2) SI diamonds contain inclusions that are noticeable to an experienced grader under 10X magnification. Typically these are clouds, included crystals, knots, cavities and feathers.
  • 30. INCLUDED (I1, I2 AND I3) Diamonds that fall in the I range contain inclusions that are obvious under 10X magnification. They might contain large feather or large included crystals. In some cases the inclusions affect transpency and brilliance.
  • 31.
  • 32. CUT What do you think of when you hear the term “cut” in relation to a polished diamond? Some people think shape. Others immediately think of different styles (brilliant cut, step cut). Still others who usually have a little gemological knowledge think of the diamonds proportion ( the dimensions, angle and the relationship of its part) and the finish ( the quality of the polish and precision of the cut) While shapes and styles are important – don’t underestimate the importance of proportions. A diamond’s optical quality are the combination of 3 things: Brilliance – the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and the inside of the stone – it gives a polished diamond its brightness. Dispersion – the separation of white light into spectral hues – the rainbow colors you see when the light passes through the prism. Scintillation – the flashes of light when the diamond, the light or the observer moves.
  • 33. The elements of diamond proportions are: • Table size • Crown angle • Pavilion angle • Girdle thickness • Total depth percentage • Symmetry • Girdle outline(fancy shapes only) • Culet size • Length to width ratio ( fancy shapes only)
  • 34. THE CUTTING PROCESS Whenever one of the Four C’s of diamond value increases or decreases, the other value factor can also be affected. For example, to maintain or increase the carat weight of the finished gem, the cutter might compromise on cut proportions. The manufacturer must consider the effect that each choice has on the finished diamond as a whole. To maximize profits, manufacturers try to end up with the best cut and the most carat weight possible at the lowest production cost. With so much at stake, a diamond manufacturer’s job demands tough decisions. For commercial- quality gems, many diamond cutting stages are now automated. But most top quality diamond rough is still fashioned by hand. That’s because it requires special expertise to achieve the highest value from a finished gem. But whether the process is mechanized or manual, diamond cutting involves the same basic steps it did hundreds of years ago.
  • 35. STEPS • Planning • Cleaving or Sawing • Bruting • Polishing
  • 37.
  • 41.
  • 42. CARAT WEIGHT Accurate weights and measures are two of the diamond industry’s most important requirements. They’re computed and discussed in every corner of the industry. Diamonds are priced and sold by carat weight. Wholesalers sort stones by size and weight. Appraisers use dimensions to estimate the weight of mounted diamonds. Understanding the relationship between the weights and dimensions of loose stones is also helpful when you’re separating diamonds from stimulants. You’ll usually find that a stimulant is much heavier than a diamond of the same size. Some terms used in the industry are: GRAINER – O.25 CT approx. 4 GRAINER – 0.95 CT TO 1.01 CT LIGHT HALF – 0.45 CT TO 0.49 CT LIGHT CARAT – 0.95 CT TO 0.99 CT 1/3 OF A CARAT – 0.30 CT TO 0.37 CT 1/4 OF A CARAT – 0.22 CT TO 0.28
  • 43. FANCY CUT DIAMONDS Diamond cuts have come a long way since the introduction of the first round brilliant. Today, thanks to advances in cutting technologies and the unlimited imaginations of cutters, diamonds can be cut in an incredible variety of ways. Diamonds are the artwork of nature, polished by the imagination of man
  • 44. DIAMOND TREATMENTS Even though most people think of diamonds as colorless, colored diamonds are more popular than ever. Promotion of pink and brown diamonds from Australia’s Arglye mine has probably done more to increase public awareness of colored diamonds than any other factor. Increased interest has led to new research into the causes of natural diamond color. While studying the causes of natural color, scientists began to understand how some of those color causing conditions might be reproduced in the lab. Since then, scientists have experimented with many ways to change or modify diamond color. The value and the rarity of naturally colored diamonds have inspired many struggles to create their colors in the lab. THE TREATMENTS ARE: • IRRADIATION • ANNEALING • HEAT AND PRESSSURE ( HPHT )
  • 45. IRRADIATION In the early 1900s, Sir William Crookes tried to duplicate nature’s process and manufacture green diamonds in the laboratory. Crookes experiments marked early research into color treating diamonds by irradiation. Today, penetration with high energy electrons in a linear accelerator is one of two frequently used irradiation techniques. Depending on the material and treatment conditions, this process usually produces blue or blue -green colors. The other technique involves bombardment with neutrons, usually in a nuclear reactor. Diamonds treated this way usually become green, blue-green, or dark green. ANNEALING A controlled heating and cooling process called annealing, is another way to change diamond color. When it follows irradiation in a two step process, annealing modifies irradiated colors to produce brown, orange or yellow. Rarely, it can also produce shades of pink, red or purple. Annealing is also sometimes used alone. The process changes diamond colors in a series- generally blue to green to brown to yellow- and the treatment is stopped when the desired color is reached.
  • 46. HIGH PRESSURE HIGH THERMAL ( HPHT ) In the late 1990s advances in diamond synthesis led to scientists to experiment with ways to modify diamond color using the same techniques: combinations of high tempretue and high pressure. The process improves the color of brownish Type diamonds, making them almost colorless. The first commercial release of HPHT diamonds occurred in March 1999. The release was the result of a partnership between GE and major diamond manufacturer Lazare Kaplan International (LKI). The companies declared that the gems had been processed to improve color, brightness, and brilliance, and that the results were permanent and also irreversible. At first the stones were known as GE-POL, or “Pegasus” diamonds because they were marketed through Lazare Kaplan’s subsidiary, Pegasus Overseas Limited ( POL). At present, they’re sold by LKI under the brand name “Bellataire”. GE and Lazare Kaplan cooperated with GIA and other leading gem labs to help identify defining characteristics for the processed diamonds. They supplied samples of diamonds both before and after processing for the labs to compare and analyze.
  • 48. FRACTURE FILLING The first fracture filling treatment for diamonds was introduced in the 1980s. Since then, many manufacturers of filling materials have emerged. The exact composition of the fillers varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, but they’re all based on the same idea: A molten glass substance is infused into a diamond’s fractures.
  • 49. DISCLOSING FRACTURE FILLING Since its introduction, the industry has debated methods of disclosing fracture filling without alarming the customer. An early solution was the term “clarity enhancement” which has a more positive sound than “fracture filling”. But the US federal Trade Commission and others in the industry consider the words “clarity enhancement” misleading. It was soon followed by the term “clarity treatment,” which was adopted by many industry professionals as the preferred – and more correct-term. TREATED DIAMONDS AND THE MARKET PLACE In the last more than 10 years, diamond treatment have become much more of an issue in the jewelry trade. As modern clarity and color treatment techniques make many diamonds more marketable, the need for positive, ethical disclosure grows. Most gem professionals, in an effort to preserve their customers trust, have been much more careful about detecting and disclosing treatments of all kinds. . And that the disclosure is not only ethical, it’s good for business too.
  • 50. The Global Diamond Industry 2016: The Enduring Allure of Timeless Gems Annual report on the global diamond jewelry prepared by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) and Bain & Company • Midstream US dollar revenues tracked the retail sector’s performance in 2015, declining 2% • Major rough-diamond producers in 2015 reacted to the challenging circumstances of their customers. • • The industry is rebounding in 2016. • A new generation of consumers—the millennials—represents a compelling opportunity for the diamond industry. The population of millennials in China, India and the US totaled roughly 900 million in 2015, and their combined gross income amounted to approximately $8 trillion. Millennials appear to resemble other age groups in their preferences for diamond jewelry but not in their shopping behaviors. To fully capture millennials’ demand over the longer term, industry players need to invest in both category marketing and brand-building efforts and redefine the customer experience in the retail environment. • The long-term outlook for the diamond market remains positive. For the next three years, the supply of rough diamonds is expected to maintain a tight balance with demand. We expect demand for rough diamonds to recover from the recent downturn and return to a long-term growth trajectory of about 2% to 5% per year on average, relying on strong fundamentals in the US and the continued growth of the middle class in China and India. The supply of rough diamonds is expected to decline annually by 1% to 2% in value terms through 2030.