This document summarizes techniques for asexual plant propagation through stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, division, and layering. It discusses taking cuttings from herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood stems. Proper procedures are outlined for rooting media, sticking cuttings, and maintaining humidity. Different plant structures used for division like rhizomes, stolons, bulbs and corms are described. Methods for layering include simple, tip, compound and mound layering. Advantages and challenges of asexual propagation are presented.

1. Wednesday, Sept. 10
1. Turn in Homework – 5 Questions (Will return first two
homework assignments on Monday) (3 minutes)
2. Field Trip Forms – Go over for 9/25, discuss Monday (5)
3. Self-Assessment – Discuss questions/grading (hw) (5)
4. Homework for Monday – Hand out reading and
assignments (5)
5. Poinsettia Watchdogs – update on crop and refer to
schedule (5)
6. Asexual Propagation (15)
7. Chapter 2 – (35)

2. Asexual
(Vegetative)
Propagation
Vegetative reproduction is defined as the production of new plants
from the vegetative parts like leaf, stem, roots of the parent plant.

3. Why Use Asexual Propagation?
v Uniformity
v Propagate non-seed producing plants
v Avoid seed-borne diseases
v To create insect or disease resistant plants
v To incorporate environmental tolerances
v To reproduce and retain the genetic traits of a hybrid
v Control size and form of a plant
v Can be faster and easier, cheaper

4. Disadvantages of Asexual
Propagation
v Uniformity (may not be desired)
v Short storage time (live cuttings)
v Bulky (vs. seeds)
v Systemic infections can be spread easily, as the plants
are clones (genetically identical)

5. Types of Asexual Propagation
v Specialized parts
v Cuttings
v Layering
v Grafting
v Tissue culture (micropropagation)

6. Specialized Plant Parts
v Offshoots
v Separation
v Division

7. Division - Stolon
A potato is a stolon, an underground storage structure (stem).
Nodes along the stem sprout stems, leaves, and roots.

8. Division - Rhizome
Rhizomes and
stolons are
underground
stems.

9. Rhizome
Division

10. Tuber Division
Caladiums are tubers, another
specialized stem structure.

11. Division of Many
Perennials

14. Division – Fleshy Roots

15. Division – Tuberous Roots

16. Separation
v Bulbs
v Corms

17. Separation – Bulbs

18. Separation – Bulbs

19. Separation – Bulbs
v Amaryllis (a tunicate bulb)

20. Separation – Scaly Bulbs

21. Separation - Corms
A corm is not a true bulb. To divide them, simply separate the new
corms or cormels.

22. Yellow and browning leaf margins could indicate ammonium toxicity, but that is usually accompanied by
interveinal chlorosis. A calcium deficiency deficiency would have young leaves chlorotic (yellowing and
curling up) rather than the lower leaves. Ca is nonmobile so deficiency is shown in upper leaves.
If soluble salts are too high, say, from the water,

23. Without a tissue analysis, it is hard to say for sure, but it could be a Mo deficiency. This
could be corrected with a foliar spray. Were we a commercial greenhouse, we would do a
tissue analysis. Today we will measure the pH and electrical conductivity/total dissolved
solids (TDS). (First we will test the EC of the water.) We’ll do it again in Monday’s lab.

24. In a commercial greenhouse we would have done the water testing first.
Another problem we have is whitefly, which sucks the juices out of the
plants. We can treat them in the larval stage with Safer Soap, which we
apply 1:50 with water after shaking the bottle. We spray it on the
undersides of the leaves, especially, as that is where they feed. It
smothers the nymphs and several other pests. We could also treat them
by releasing lady beetles, minute pirate bugs, green lacewings or other
predatory or parasitic predators.

25. Write in Your Greenhouse Notebook
v Potted rooted cuttings: 9/3/14
v Added shade cloth: 9/3/14
v Fertilized with 300 ppm 15-5-15 Cal-Mag fertilizer. (4.05 z.
or 114.8 g/gal. conc.): 9/3/14
v Treated with BanRot (recommended for poinsettias is 6-12
oz./100 gal.)
12 oz./100 gal=.12 oz/1 gal. x 16 (for the 1:16 proportioner)
= 1.92 oz./gal. conc.: 9/3/14
v Fertilized and treated with BanRot: 9/5/14
v Removed dead leaves: 9/5/14, 9/8/14
v Removed Shade Cloth: 9/8/14
v Sprayed with Safer Soap: 9/8/14
v Fertilized: 9/9/14

26. Tradescantia zebrina
“wandering Jew”
Spiderwort family
Commelinaceae
From southern Mexico,
Honduras, Guatemala
vine; stem cuttings
Philodendron cordatum
“wandering Jew”
Arum family
Aracaeae
Epiphyte from Southeastern
Brazil
vine; stem cuttings
Some plants we are propagating – 1. Herbaceous Vines

27. 2. Succulent Leaf Cuttings
Crassula ovata
“jade plant”
Crassulaceae
Shrub from South Africa
Leaf or stem cuttings

28. 3. More Leaf Cuttings
Peperomia obovatus
“baby rubber plant”
Pepper family
Piperaceae
Succulent epiphyte that grows on rotting
wood in tropical and subtropical regions
Leaf or stem cuttings
“African violet”
Saintpulia spp.
Gesneriad Family
Gesneriacae
From tropical Africa
Leaf cutting

29. 4. Baby plantlets from runners
(stems)
Chlorophytum comosum ‘Variegata’
“variegated spider plant”
Asparagus Family
Asparagaceae
Native to South Africa
The flowers

30. Epiphyllum oxypetalum
“queen of the night”
Cactus family
Cactaceae
Cuttings of phylloclades
(modified branches)
Epiphyte from Sri Lanka
Schlumbergera x buckleyi “Christmas cactus”
Epiphyte from Brazil

31. 6. Evergreen Shrub 7. Deciduous Shrub
Rhododendron x hybrid
“red azalea”
Heath family
Ericaceae
Semi-hardwood cutting – when stem
is at partial maturity (somewhat woody),
around August to mid-Sept. in Mass.
Salix integra ‘Hakuro-Nishiki’
“dappled Japanese willow”
Williw family
Salicaceae
Softwood cuttings in spring or semi-
hardwood to hardwood cuttings in fall or
winter. Easy to propagate.

32. Stem Cuttings
v Herbaceous
v Woody plants
v Softwood
v Semi-hardwood (ripe)
v Hardwood

33. Herbaceous Cuttings
v Stem
v Stem tip
v Leaf bud
v Leaf
Petiole à

34. Stem Cuttings
v Softwood – late spring,
new growth
v Semi-hardwood (ripe) –
summer, recent growth
v Hardwood – late fall
(dormant), 1 yr. growth

35. Roots tend to develop at nodes
node

36. Cutting principles
v Age of material
v Correct seasonal timing
v Sterile rooting medium, sanitation
v High humidity
v No direct sun
v Shoots without flowers or flower buds
v Node near base of cutting
v Rooting hormones
v Basal wounding of woody cuttings
v Remove leaves in contact with rooting medium

37. Herbaceous Cuttings
v Herbaceous cuttings are made from non-woody,
herbaceous plants such as coleus, chrysanthemums,
and dahlia.
v A 3- to 5-inch piece of stem is cut from the parent
plant. The leaves on the lower one-third to one-half of
the stem are removed. A high percentage of the
cuttings root, and they do so quickly.

38. Softwood Cuttings
v Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent,
new growth of woody plants, just as it begins to
harden (mature). Shoots are suitable for making them
when they can be snapped easily when bent and when
they still have a gradation of leaf size (oldest leaves are
mature while newest leaves are still small.)
v For most woody plants, this stage occurs in May, June,
or July. The soft shoots are tender, and extra care must
be taken to keep them from drying out.
v Successful with many deciduous and evergreen shrubs
and trees.

40. Semi-Hardwood Cuttings
v Semi-hardwood cuttings are usually prepared from
partially mature wood of the current season’s growth,
just after a flush of growth. This type of cutting
normally is made from mid-July to early fall. The
wood is reasonably firm and the leaves of mature size.
v Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs and some conifers
are propagated by this method.

41. Semi-hardwood (ripe) cuttings

42. Hardwood Cuttings
v Hardwood cuttings are taken from dormant, mature
stems in late fall, winter, or early spring. Plants
generally are fully dormant with no obvious signs of
active growth. The wood is firm and does not bend
easily.
v Hardwood cuttings are used most often for deciduous
shrubs but can be used for many evergreens. Examples
of plants propagated at the hardwood stage include
forsythia, privet, fig, grape, and Spirea.

46. Procedures for Rooting Stem Cuttings
² Cuttings should generally consist of the current or past
season’s growth.
² Avoid material with flower buds if possible. Remove
any flowers and flower buds when preparing cuttings
so the cutting’s energy can be used in producing new
roots rather than flowers.
² Take cuttings from healthy, disease-free plants,
preferably from the upper part of the plant.

47. ² Avoid taking cuttings from plants that show symptoms
of mineral nutrient deficiency or that have been
fertilized heavily
² The stock plant should not be under moisture stress. In
general, cuttings taken from young plants root in
higher percentages than cuttings taken from older,
more mature plants. Cuttings from lateral shoots often
root better than cuttings from terminal shoots.
Procedures for Rooting Stem Cuttings

48. ² Early morning is the best time to take cuttings,
because the plant is fully turgid. Keep the cuttings cool
and moist until they are stuck. If there will be a delay
in sticking cuttings, store them in a plastic bag in a
refrigerator.
² Terminal parts of the stem are best, but a long shoot
can be divided into several cuttings, generally 4 to 6”
long. Use a sharp, thin-bladed pocket knife or sharp
pruning shears. If necessary, dip the cutting tool in
rubbing alcohol or a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9
parts water to prevent transmitting diseases from
infected plant parts to healthy ones.
Procedures for Rooting Stem Cuttings

49. ² Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half
of the cutting. On large-leafed plants, the remaining
leaves may be cut in half to reduce water loss and
conserve space. Species difficult to root should be
wounded by gently scraping the bark.
Procedures for Rooting Stem Cuttings

50. ² Treating cuttings with root-promoting compounds can
stimulate rooting of some plants that might otherwise
be difficult to root.
² Prevent possible contamination of the entire supply of
rooting hormone by putting some in a separate
container before treating cuttings.
² Any material that remains after treatment should be
discarded and not returned to the original container.
Be sure to tap the cuttings to remove excess hormone
when using a powder formulation.
Using Rooting Hormones

51. Rooting Media
² The rooting medium should be sterile, low in fertility,
and well-drained to provide sufficient aeration. It
should also retain enough moisture so that watering
does not have to be done too frequently. Materials
commonly used are coarse sand, a mixture of one part
peat and one part perlite (by volume), or one part peat
and one part sand (by volume).
² Vermiculite by itself is not recommended, because it
compacts and tends to hold too much moisture.
² Media should be watered while being used.

52. Sticking Cuttings
² Insert cuttings 1/3 to 1/2 their length into the medium.
² Maintain the vertical orientation of the stem (do not
insert the cuttings upside down). Make sure the buds are
pointed up.
² Space cuttings just far enough apart to allow all leaves to
receive sunlight. Water again after inserting the cuttings if
the containers or frames are 3 or more inches in depth.
² Cover the cuttings with plastic and place in indirect light.
Avoid direct sun. Keep the medium moist until the
cuttings have rooted. Rooting will be improved if the
cuttings are misted on a regular basis.

53. Rooting Time
² Rooting time varies with the type of cutting, the
species being rooted, and environmental conditions.
Conifers require more time than broadleaf plants. Late
fall or early winter is a good time to root conifers.
Once rooted, they may be left in the rooting structure
until spring.
² Newly rooted cuttings should not be transplanted
directly into the landscape. Instead, transplant them
into containers or into a bed. Growing them to a larger
size before transplanting to a permanent location will
increase the chances for survival.

54. Bottom heat aids
in rooting

55. Good Sources on Plant Propagation
For Further Reading
§ Bryant, G. 1995. Propagation Handbook. Stackpole Books:
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania.
§ Dirr, M. A. and C. W. Heuser, Jr. 1987. The Reference Manual of
Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue Culture. Varsity
Press: Athens, Georgia.
§ Hartmann, H. T., D. E. Kester, F. T. Davies and R. L. Geneve.
1996. Plant Propagation, Principles and Practices. 6th ed.
Prentice Hall: Upper Saddle River, New Jersey.
§ McMillan Browse, P. D. A. 1978. Plant Propagation. Simon and
Schuster: New York.
§ Toogood, A. 1993. Plant Propagation Made Easy. Timber Press:
Portland, Oregon

56. Leaf Cuttings

57. Whole leaf (leaf-petiole) cuttings
Petiole à

59. Leaf cuttings
Keep moist at all times.

61. Leaf cuttings

62. Cuttings from Variegated Plants
Variegation may be due to
a lack of pigment in an
area, the masking of
chlorophyll by other
pigments, or the other
pigments themselves, such
as with shades of pink, red,
and purple due to
anthocyanin pigments. It
may also be due to a virus.
Propagating variegated plants can bring about some surprises.

64. Runners

65. Layering

66. Types of layering
v Simple layering
v Tip layering
v Compound layering
v Mound layering
v Trench layering
v Air layering

67. Tip layering
v Limited to brambles

68. Simple layering
v Layer in Spring with one-year-old wood –
v rooted by fall--remove

69. Rooting
layers

70. Compound (Serpentine) Layering
v Use with flexible vines

71. Mound Layering
v Used for rootstock production in
nursery trees

72. Trench Layering

73. Air Layering
v Developed by the Chinese
centuries ago

74. Air layering

75. Thanks to
the wonders
of grafting

76. Grafting

77. Why graft?
v Incorporate disease, insect resistance
v Incorporate temperature tolerance
v Quickly increase # of a desirable type
v Change cultivar of fruit in an orchard
v Control form (dwarfing, weeping, tree mums & roses)
v Repair bark damage

78. Grafting principles
Contact between vascular
cambium of scion and
rootstock

79. Grafting principles
v Taxonomic compatibility
v Timing of graft (dormant scion)
v Waterproof graft junction
v Rootstock diameter > scion diameter

80. Whip or Tongue grafting
v Most common grafting method

81. Grafting over
v Adding a cultivar to an established fruit tree
v Replace the existing cultivar
v Add a new pollinator
v Try a new cultivar
v Top-working
v Frame-working

82. Bark grafting (rind graft)

83. Cleft grafting
Topworking

84. Double working
v Using an interstock to graft an incompatible scion to a
rootstock. The interstock is compatible with both scion
and rootstock.

85. Side grafting

86. Approach grafting
v Use when detached scion not possible

87. Flat grafting cacti

88. Budding
v Scion is a bud
v Used to propagate fruit trees, roses

89. T-budding
Widely used for clonal propagation of
temperate and tropical fruit trees and
temperate ornamental shade trees.

90. Chip budding
Chip budding is often used for fruit and ornamental, deciduous trees.
Trees in the rose family such as apple, cherries, hawthorn, pear, plums
and Sorbus are especially amenable to chip budding. Acers, Laburnum,
Magnolia and Robinia are other trees frequently budded.

91. Patch budding
Patch budding is widely used in plants with thick bark that can be easily
separated from the wood.

92. Bridge grafting to repair damage

93. Bridge graft to strengthen
a narrow crotch angle

94. Inarching to repair
damage

95. Micropropagation (Tissue Culture)
v Utilizes cell and tissue culture
v Home tissue culture