Training module

BEXIMCO
Quality Training Module
Nazmul Huda
ACTION PLAN

Q-1 What is quality ?
Answer: Quality is satisfying and fulfilling customer’s requirement.
Or
Quality means quantitative comparison between a defined standard and the product to be compared.
In short-
-Conformation to requirement
-Fitness for use
-Degree of perfection
-Guarantee of confidence
BEXIMCO TEXTILES DIVISION 2

Q-1 Why is the quality important to the client ?
-Customer satisfaction
- াহক স
-On time delivery
-সময়মত ডিলভাির
-Product safety, legality & quality
-পণ িনরাপ া, বধতা এবং ণমান
Customer confidence to buy the product
-পণ িকনেত াহেকর আ া

Q-1 What is Quality Control ? Principle of quality control
Answer: Quality control is a series of activities or observation technique to ensure quantifiable attributes in products
that conforms to the standard.
Principle of Quality Control
--To improve & to sustain
Quality Assurance
Quality assurance is a set of planned and systematic activities to provide confidence and ensure quality in process by
which products are developed and produced.

In line
inspection
Daily
inspection
Pre-Final
inspection
Final
inspection
Finishing
inspection
End line
inspection
After wash check
Quality control steps

Q-1 Defect & Defective
Answer: Defects are the collection of non-conformances which are not accepted by the end-user.
Example of defect
-Skip Stitch
-Broken Stitch
-Puckering
-Needle mark
Defective
Defective Pieces or Defected Garments are those items in which at least one defect has been found. One defective piece
may contain one or more defects.
টপূণ টকরা বা টপূণ গােম স হল সই জিনস িল যখােন কমপে এক ট ট পাওয়া গেছ। এক ট টপূণ
টকরা এক বা একািধক ট থাকেত পাের।

Types of defects
Three types of defects
1. Critical defects
2. Major defects
3. Minor defects

CRITICAL
-If it hurts (Example-Sharp or metal Particles).
-If it causes injury to user’s health or risk for life (Example-Toxic Fabric or Dyes Chemical).
-If it does not respect legal regulation (Example-Wrong or missing country name, composition & other information).

Broken needle at garment's Wrong Composition Sharp edge

Foreign yarn Knot Line Mark Color Shading
Joint Stitch
Printing problem Slub Thick yarn Thin yarn
10

Major defects
-If it affects on main function of component (Example-Broken Button, Blockage in zipper)
-If it affects on life cycle (Example-Seam Durability)
-If it does not match the approved trims
-If it affects the sale
যিদ এ ট উপাদান টর ধান ফাংশনেক ভািবত কের (উদাহরণ-ভাঙা বাতাম, জপাের েকজ)
-যিদ এ ট জীবন চ েক ভািবত কের (উদাহরণ-সীম ািয় )
-যিদ এ ট অনুেমািদত ছাঁেটর সােথ মেল না -যিদ এ ট িব য়েক ভািবত কের
Skip Stitch Broken Stitch Half Stitch Missing Bartack

Joint Stitch Damage Insecure Label Needle Cut
Joint Stitch
Loop Slanted Raw Edge out Uneven Stitch Pleat

leg Twisting Insecure Rivet Open Stitch Color Shading
Joint Stitch
Puckering Uneven Shape Twisting Size Mistake
13

Washing Crease Mark Shade Variation Cut damage Stain Mark
Joint Stitch
Pilling at pocket off Shade Popper come out
14

Size Mistake Incorrect Sticker placement
Incorrect Folding Pocket back Showing
15

MINOR
-If it does not affect on wear ability
-If it does not affect on comfort of product
-If it does not affect on main function of component
-If it does not affect on life cycle
-If it would not be objectionable to the end user
Point Up Down Slanted
যিদ এ ট পিরধােনর মতােক ভািবত না কের
-যিদ এ ট পেণ র আরােমর উপর ভাব না ফেল
-যিদ এ ট উপাদান টর ধান ফাংশনেক ভািবত না কের
-যিদ এ ট জীবনচ েক ভািবত না কের -যিদ এ ট শষ ব বহারকারীর কােছ আপি কর না হয়
Uncut thread Inside garments Poor Joint Stitch
16

Quality Control area
1. Raw materials store
1.1 Fabric
1.2 Accessories & Trims
2. Cutting Section (Including Sub process)
3. Sewing area
3.1 Pre-production
3.2 Production
3.3 Post production area
4. Washing section
5. Dyeing area
6. Finishing area BEXIMCO TEXTILES DIVISION 17

Q-1 What is accessories ? Different between trims & accessories
Answer: The materials which are used in a garment along with main material fabric are called accessories.
Ex-Thread, Label, Zipper Button, Hang Tag etc.
Ex-Label, Zipper, Button, Draw Cord etc.
Difference between Trims and Accessories
The materials which are attached with garments by sewing.
Trims are basically used for functional purpose.
Ex-Label, Zipper, Button, Draw Cord etc.
The materials which are not attached with garments by sewing.
Trims are basically used for decorative purpose.
Ex-Hang Tag, Tag Pin, Collar Stand, Price Sticker etc.

Q-3 What is trims inspection? How to inspect the trims at store?
Answer: A minimum of 10% of incoming raw materials must be inspected & Acceptable
Quality Level (AQL) basis, or a more stringent level should be applied (min. 2.5). If fail the lot, we will call the
supplier to re-check all the raw materials.
আগত কাঁচামােলর নূ নতম 10% পিরদশন এবং হণেযাগ হেত হেব মােনর র (AQL) িভি , অথবা আেরা কেঠার র েয়াগ
করা উিচত (নূ নতম 2.5)। যিদ চর ব থ হয়, আমরা সরবরাহকারীেক সম কাঁচামাল পুনরায় চক করার জন কল করব
There are four steps of checking the raw materials
1. Check the actual quantity
2. Check the color
3. Check the size & measurement
4. Check against approved trims card
কাঁচামাল পরী া করার চার ট ধাপ রেয়েছ
1. ক
ৃ ত পিরমাণ চক ক ন
2. রঙ চক ক ন
3. আকার এবং পিরমাপ চক ক ন
4. অনুেমািদত মস কােডর িবপরীেত চক ক ন

Q-4 Write down some accessories defects name
Answer: a) Size mistake b) Printing wrong c) barcode missing d) Sharpness of label d) Measurement deviation e)
Improper thickness f) Shade problem g) Wavy or puckering tape h) logo wrong / Logo Missing
-4 িকছ accessories টর নাম িলখ
উ র:
ক) আকােরর ভল খ) ছাপার ভল গ) বারেকাড অনুপি ত ঘ) লেবেলর তী তা ঘ) পিরমােপর িবচ িত e) অনুপযু বধ f) ছায়া
সমস া g) avy ◌উ বা পাকািরং টপ h) লােগা ভল / লােগা অনুপি ত

Q-5 What is 4-point inspection system? How to inspect the trims at store?
Answer: A minimum of 10% of incoming fabric must be inspected. If fail the lot, we will call the supplier to re-check all the raw
fabric.
How many defects are identified in 100 square meter fabric.
It may be followed four point grading system
ইনকািমং ফি েকর নূ নতম 10% পিরদশন করেত হেব। যিদ Lot fail হয়, আমরা সরবরাহকারীেক সম কাপড় পুনরায়
পরী া করার জন Supplier কল করব। 100 বগ িমটার কাপেড় কত িল ট িচি ত করা হয়। এ ট ফার পেয় িডং
প িত অনুসরণ করেত পাের
Acceptance Calculation
Total Points Found X 36 X 100
Formula = ---------------------------------------------- = Points / 100 Sq. Yds.
Actual roll length X Actual Width
Four Point Grading System
Size of Defect Penalty
3 Inches or less 1 point
Over 3”, but not over 6” 2 points
Over 6”, but not over 9” 3 points
Over 9 Inches 4 points

Q-6 What is the source of light box?
Answer: A light box should have TL84 and D65 lights. A) Colour should be assessed first with TL84 (store light) and then with D65 (daylight),
then checked in Tungsten filament for mesmerism. B) A light box should be segregated in order to prevent daylight leaking into the box C) UV
light
উ র: এক ট Light বাে TL84 এবং D65 লাইট থাকেত হেব। A) রঙ ট থেম TL84 ( ার লাইট) এবং তারপর D65 (িদেনর আেলা) িদেয় মূল ায়ন
করা উিচত, তারপর মসািরজেমর জন টংে ন িফলােমে চক করা। খ) বাে িদেনর আেলা ফ
ু টােনা রাধ করার জন এক ট হালকা বা
আলাদা করা উিচত C) UV আেলা
Q-7 How to control shade of fabric?
Answer: 1. Checking bulk fabric color with approved lab-dip (also
known as lab-dye).
1. অনুেমািদত ল াব-িডপ (এছাড়াও ল াব-ডাই নােম পিরিচত)।
2. If there is more than one dye-lot, color continuity should be checked between
dye-lots, recorded and dated for future reference.
2. যিদ একািধক ডাই-লট থােক, তাহেল রেঙর ধারাবািহকতা পরী া করা উিচত ডাই-লট, রকড করা এবং ভিবষ েতর রফােরে র জন
তািরখ।
3. Check color continuity between rolls in a dye-lot.
3. ডাই-লেট রাল িলর মেধ রেঙর ধারাবািহকতা পরী া ক ন।
4. Check color continuity within a roll – end, middle, and far end, plus side, middle, and other side
4. এক ট রাল মেধ রঙ ধারাবািহকতা পরী া ক ন-end, middle, and far end, plus side, middle, and other side

Q-4 What are the common check point in cutting section?
Answer: a) Fabric Relaxation check b) Spreading check c) Marker check d) Top, Middle & Bottom inspection e) 100% cut panel
inspection f)Cut panel replacement g) 4% random audit
ক) কাপেড়র িশিথলতা চক খ) িডং চক গ) মাকার চক ঘ) শীষ, মধ ও িনেচর পিরদশন e) 100% কাট প ােনল পিরদশন
f) কাট প ােনল িত াপন g) 4% random িনরী া
Q-5 Write down common defect at cutting section
Answer: a) Fabric hole b) Thick yarn c) Thin yarn d) Slub e) knot f) bowing/ Skewing g) Needle lines h) Dirty/ stain I) Crease mark
j) Fabric shading h) Broken Pick/ Broken ends
উ র: ক) ফি ক হাল খ) ঘন সুতা গ) পাতলা সুতা ঘ) ব ই) িগঁট চ) নমুনা/ ু ইং ছ) needle লাইন জ) নাংরা/ দাগ I) স
Mark j) ফ াি ক শিডং জ) ভা া িপক/ ভাঙা শষ

3. Sewing
3.1 Pre-production
1. To get all relevant documents related to style which need to be have in sewing line
-Approved Sample, Technical Specification (Tech Pack), Trims cards, PP comments , Risk assessment report, all
approved swatch, Design sheet, MCP report, OB sheet & quality guideline etc.
2. Closely follow up the line during the initial stage to ensure the good quality of
product
3. To check thread according to thread sequence, accessories in every process which are to be used and cut panel
with pattern.

4. To check all process's SPI, stitch width and tension.
SPI
To control quality during operation, immediately check styling with sample SPI Check report
after completing first piece garment. Also check all the critical area of process
6. To check styling and all accessories & threads for all process of complete garments.
7. Ensure the measurement by the Quality
8. Follow up the traffic light for the critical operation
Measurement Report

3. Sewing
3.2 Production
1. To check randomly every issue of cut panels with pattern and materials with approved trim card.
-
2. Perform the traffic light checking report & maintain the report as well as.
-
3. To verify all the process when require to rectify
-
4. Conduct 100% goods process inspection & end line inspection & also maintain report
5. To check running garments and keep good and defective garments separate.
-
6. In same operation defect found more than 3 in an hour, then production team will find out actual root cause &
need to take proper record of corrective action.

In line Inspection report End line Inspection report reject, Alter & Spot goods keeping area CAPA report
Approved Sample Approved trims card

3. Sewing
3.2 Production
7. To receive repaired garments and check again.
-
8. To check measurement regularly.
-
9. To keep all the related reports updated.
-
Quality Meeting

3. Sewing
3.3 Post Production
1. To get all defective garments of running style rectified and make sure no garment is left.
2. To remove all left over materials (like label, draw cord, button, thread cone etc.) and rejected garments from line
3. To collect all quality controlling tools like mock up, TLS Indicators & clip board and gather in safe place.
-3.
4. To return all related quality controlling tools to related department and get another for coming style.
5. To analyze the current quality condition and make preventive plan for the next.
-

1. Running style related all necessary documents should be available in line and taken care of. And to attend
auditor’s short meeting before production start.
2. Check Table should be neat and clean & organized.
3. Defective and good garments must be kept separate.
4. Different color trims and different color garments can't be together in line.
5. D65 / TL84 Light with 1000 Lux should be with check table
Reject, Alter & Spot goods keeping box Light Box Cut panel cover with separator
BEXIMCO TEXTILES DIVISION
30

Garments should be checked clockwise both inside and outside.
-
8. Measurement should be checked regularly.
9. SPI, Stitch Width and Tension should be checked frequently.
SPI
10. Cut panels and trims should be checked instantly whenever issued in line.
All the reports should be updated.
Updated Traffic Light report SPI report Measurement report

12. Useful sharp tools (i.e. trimmers or small scissors) should be tied with table.
13. Operator's should be inserted label size wise.
14. Measurement tools must be calibrated.
Sharp tools keeping Box Label keeping box Label keeping box

Finishing area
1. To cross check the received packing accessories from stores according to trim card.
2. To cross check with approval to proceed production.
To regularly check garments quality, appearance and accessories accuracy.
4. To check accuracy and content during making cartons.
5. To check shipping information before offering final inspection and loading.

1. Packing approval, Trims Card, Pressing Instruction and other information of running style must be available in
finishing area. To cross check with approval to proceed production.
Only running style and running color accessories can be available in finishing area.
3. All packing accessories must be in order in box according to size.
4. D65 / TL84 Light with 800-1000 Lux should be with check table.
D65/ TL84
5. Measurement tools must be calibrated.
6. Useful sharp tools (i.e. trimmers or small scissors) should be tied with table.
7. All the reports should be updated.

Finishing label keeping box Label keeping Box Sharp tools keeping box
Calibrated Measurement tape Updated Inspection report Cutter tied at Workstation

Final Inspection Table Process Check table

What is Tech Pack?
A tech pack is a gathering of information for a style which includes all the technical specifications of the requirements
for manufacturing garments.
Tech pack is a part of style file that includes more others information like Order Sheet, Shipment Flow, Test Reports,
Inspection report, Commercial Documents etc.
-
Technical Specification
38

What is Mock Up?
Mock is the physical specimen of quality standard for a specific process as per customer’s specifications.
This leads the operators to be aware about process with desired level of quality.

Sample
1.To follow buyer standard in production.
2.To avoid mistakes.
Trim Card:
1.To check all sewing trims used in production.

Tech Pack / CMS:
1.To follow technical instruction for production.
How to Check / Check Procedure:
1.To check effectively on right way.

Key Defects / Key Check Points:
1.To be aware about commonly found defects.
2.To know the standard.
Cutting Common Defect Sewing Common Defects
Buyer Comments / In-line Report:
1.To know about buyer findings.
2.To meet the buyer requirement.

Label Artwork / Label Mock Up:
1.To check reference number.
2.To avoid size mistakes.
Process Mock up:
1.To know the quality standard of specific process.
|

Packing Approval:
1.To know about the folding and packing method.
Folding approval
Trim Card:
1.To check packing accessories.
Trims Card

Pressing Instruction:
1.To be aware about pressing faults.
2.To maintain the standard.
Pressing approval Pressing instruction
SOP for Special Operation:
(Heat Seal, Legger, Button Attach etc.)
1.To know the procedure to operate.
2.To maintain the requirement.
Button attach SOP

Traffic light system:
In visit time found no defect use green, found 1 defects use yellow color, found 1or more defect use red color. If
traffic light become red, machine will be stop & inform to Production Executive & Quality In-charge. Then
Production Executive & Quality In-charge will check , find out root cause & given solution and again start machine .
Meaning of color of Tag
Green: indicates that Quality meets the Standard.
From a sample of 5 pieces no defects were found
সবুজ: িনেদশ কের য ণমান মান পূরণ কের।
5 টকরা এক ট নমুনা থেক কান ট পাওয়া যায় িন
Yellow: indicates that a minor fault has been found and caution is required.
From a sample of 5 pieces 1 minor defects were found
হলুদ: ইি ত কের য এক ট ছাটখাট দাষ পাওয়া গেছ এবং সতকতা েয়াজন।
5 টকরা এক ট নমুনা থেক 1 ছাটখাট ট পাওয়া গেছ
Red: Indicates that the Quality Standard does not meet the standard. Need immediate improvement.
From a sample of 5 pieces 1 major or 2 minors defects were found
লাল: িনেদশ কের য মােনর মান মান পূরণ কের না। অিবলে উ িত েয়াজন। 5 টকরা নমুনা থেক 1 ট ধান বা
2 নাবালেকর ট পাওয়া গেছ BEXIMCO TEXTILES DIVISION 47

Garments defect Zone for visual check
Check Zone
Zone-A
Zone-B
িভজু য়াল চেকর জন গােম স িডেফ জান
চক জান জান-এ
জান-িব
Bottom Check Zone
Zone-A
Zone-B
Zone-C
Bottom চক জান
জান-এ
জান-িব
জান-িস

Clockwise Check Method : কওয়াইজ চক প িত

Advantages of clockwise check system
-All areas are checked. No skipping.
-No repetition
-Minimizes garments handling time.
-Increases efficiency

How to check a garment (Top)
Check clockwise starting from any point
1.Front Area
2.Collar Area
3.Left Shoulder
4.Left Sleeve and Cuff
5.Left Side Seam
6.Both Side Pocket
7.Bottom Hem
8.Right Side Seam
9.Right Sleeve and Cuff
10.Right Shoulder

How to check a garment (Top)
1.Backside Area
2.Collar Area
3.Right Shoulder
4.Right Sleeve and Cuff
5.Right Side Seam
6.Bottom Hem
7.Left Side Seam
8.Left Sleeve and Cuff
9.Left Shoulder

How to check a garment (Bottom)
1.Waistband Area
2.Zipper & Front Rise Area
3.Both Side Pocket
4.Left Side Seam
5.Left Bottom Hem
6.Left In-Seam
7.Right In-Seam
8.Right Bottom Hem
9.Right Side Seam

How to check a garment (Bottom)
1.Waistband Area
2.Back Rise Area
3.Both Side Pocket
4.Right Side Seam
5.Right In-Seam
6.Left In-Seam
7.Left Side Seam

Measurement Control
The way of control in which garments’ measurement is controlled that is called measurement control.
Measurement Check Step
-Measuring Garments
-
-Highlight Out of Tolerance & Find Root Cause
-Rectification
-Assurance

Key Points
The measurement points which are vital to fit a garments are called key points control.
For Example-Chest, Hem, Body length, Waist, Hip, In-seam etc.
Base Size
The size of given point from which each size is decreased or increased in order of grade rule.

About Measurement Tape
The way of control in which garments’ measurement is controlled that is called measurement control.
A measurement tape length is-
150 CM
60 Inch
1” = 2.54 CM
1/4, 3/8, ½, 5/8, ¾,7/8-1

Packaging Control
The way of control in which garments’ packing method and accuracy of packaging information is controlled that is
called packaging control.
Measurement Check Step
-Checking Accessories & Packing Method
-Identification of error
-Rectification & Educating
-Assurance

Care Code Instruction

1. Don’t wear ornaments like rings, bracelets, wristwatch.
No ornament use
2. Don’t use make up item.
restriction of using make up
3. Don’t foods item at working area.
4. Use hand gloves to check white or light color garments
use Hand Gloves
60

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