14th century fashion and clothing geography , fabrics , men and women clothing jewellery

1. 14th century
THE MIDDLE AGE
IN EUROPE

2. REGION

3. INTRODUCTION
• Fashion in fourteenth-century Europe was
marked by the beginning of a period of
experimentation with different forms of
clothing.
• The draped garments and straight seams of
previous centuries were replaced by curved
seams and the beginnings of tailoring, which
allowed clothing to more closely fit the
human form. Also, the use of lacing and
buttons allowed a more snug fit to clothing.

4. FABRICS USED• Wool was the most important
material for clothing, due to its
numerous favorable qualities,
such as the ability to take dye
and its being a good insulator
• Woodblock printing of cloth was
known throughout the century,
and was probably fairly common
by the end; this is hard to assess as
artists tended to avoid trying to
depict patterned cloth due to the
difficulty of doing
so. Embroidery in wool, and silk or
gold thread for the rich, was used
for decoration.

5. • Silk was the finest fabric of all.
• The well-off could afford
woven brocades from Italy.
• Fur was mostly worn as an
inner lining for warmth;
inventories
from Burgundian villages show
that even there a fur-lined coat
(rabbit, or the more expensive
cat) was one of the most
common garments.

6. Men’s clothing• Shirt :The innermost layer of clothing were
the breeches, a loose undergarment, usually made
of linen, which was held up by a belt.Next came the
shirt, which was generally also made of linen, and
which was considered an undergarment, like the
breeches.[
• Hose made out of wool were used to cover the
legs, and were generally brightly colored, and
often had leather soles, so that they did not have
to be worn with shoes. The shorter clothes of the
second half of the century required these to be a
single garment like modern tights, whereas
otherwise they were two separate pieces covering
the full length of each leg. Hose were generally tied
to the breech belt, or to the breeches themselves,
or to a doublet.
• A doublet was a buttoned jacket that was generally
of hip length. Similar garments were
called cotehardie,.[These garments were worn over
the shirt and the hose.

7. • An overgown, tunic, or kirtle
was usually worn over the shirt
or doublet. As with other outer
garments, it was generally
made of wool.Over this, a man
might also wear an over-
kirtle, cloak, or a
hood. Servants and working
men wore their kirtles at
various lengths, including as
low as the knee or calf.
However the trend during the
century was for hem-lengths to
shorten for all classes.

8. HEADRESS
• Man wearing a chaperon, Italy, late
14th century
• During this century, the chaperon made a
transformation from being a utilitarian
hood with a small cape to becoming a
complicated and fashionable hat worn by
the wealthy in town settings. This came
when they began to be worn with the
opening for the face placed instead on the
top of the head.
• Belts were worn below waist at all
times, and very low on the hips
with the tightly fitted fashions of
the latter half of the century. Belt
pouches or purses were used, and
long daggers, usually hanging
diagonally to the front.

9. WOMEN’S CLOTHING
• The innermost layer of a woman's
clothing was a linen or
woolen chemise or smock, some
fitting the figure and some loosely
garmented,
• Women also wore hose or
stockings, although women's hose
generally only reached to the knee.

11. • Gowns and outerwear
• Over the chemise, women wore a loose
or fitted gown called a kirtle, usually
ankle or floor-length, and with trains for
formal occasions. Fitted kirtles had full
skirts made by adding triangular gores to
widen the hem without adding bulk at the
waist. Kirtles also had long, fitted sleeves
that sometimes reached down to over the
knuckles.
• Various sorts of overgowns were worn
over the kirtle. When fitted, this garment
is often called a cotehardie and might
have hanging sleeves and sometimes
worn with a jeweled or metal worked belt.
• Outdoors, women wore cloaks , often
lined in fur.
• The Houppelande was also adopted by
women late in the century. Women
invariably wore their Houppelandes floor-
length, the waistline rising up to right
underneath the bust, sleeves very wide
and hanging, like angel sleeves.

12. HEADRESS
• Married women in Northern and
Western Europe wore some type of
headcovering.
• The barbet was a band of linen
that passed under the chin and
was pinned on top of the head; it
descended from the earlier wimple
which was now worn only by older
women, widows, and nuns.
• The barbet was worn with a linen
fillet or headband, or with a linen
cap called a coif, with or without
acouvrechef (Kerchief)or veil over
all.

13. FOOTWEAR
• Footwear during the fourteenth
century generally consisted of
the turnshoe, which was made
out of leather. It was fashionable
for the toe of the shoe to be a
long point, which often had to
be stuffed with material to keep
its shape. A carved wooden-
soled sandal-like type of clog or
overshoe called a patten would
often be worn over the shoe
outdoors, as the shoe by itself
was generally not waterproof.